How to prepare pine bark for planting orchids. Preparing bark for planting orchids

Orchid Bark Many orchid growers prefer to plant orchids in clean bark. Whether they grow better in clean bark is debatable. Some will argue that it is in the clean bark that their orchids grow better, others will say that by transplanting an orchid into a clean pine bark, they started having problems, and even the death of orchids. What is the problem with planting orchids in pure pine bark? The first and most important mistake is not the ability, and sometimes not understanding what quality of bark an orchid can be transplanted into. If you buy in the store just pieces of bark, sometimes they can be found in large bags called mulch, then this bark, in the form in which it is sold, is not suitable for planting orchids. It needs to be handled in a special way. The same applies to the bark collected in the forest on their own. If you buy mulch, and it comes in different fractions, then it is better to take a large or medium fraction, as there is a lot of garbage and sawdust in the small one.

Now let's talk about how to prepare this bark for planting orchids. It is better to grind it right away, of course, not the whole bag, but only some part that you need to transplant your orchids. For phalaenopsis, miltonia, cattleya, dendri, the bark fraction may be the same. This is 1.5-3 cm. It is better to chop the bark so that pieces of both 3 cm and 1.5 come across in portions, because it is better to add pieces of a larger fraction to the bottom of the pot so that the water does not stagnate there. It is easier to fill the voids between the roots with small pieces, and also to fall asleep in the top of the pot. Such pieces retain moisture longer and the top will not dry out so quickly, which will have a positive effect on the growth of the orchid, the forcing of young roots at the top of the orchid stem, or in young pseudobulbs. It is convenient to grind the bark with metal cutters or garden shears. A chisel with a hammer will also work in particularly difficult cases. Why exactly dry bark, before processing it is more correct to grind? Because small pieces are more amenable to processing than large ones, resinous substances are better digested from small pieces than from large ones.

Crushed, now our task is to properly prepare this bark for planting orchids. To do this, it must be well boiled. We take a pan, which is not a pity, pour cold water or boiling water, there is no difference and put on fire. Now we remember how we cook jelly. It boils, reduce the heat to a minimum and cook the bark for 4-5 hours. Then we turn it off, drain the water, fill it with new water and cook in the same way, and the same amount, for 4-5 hours. Why so much? This is not much, some advise to cook it 2 times for 16 hours. It’s just that long-term cooking helps to eliminate all resinous substances, the troughs are in the bark, and water replacement and re-boiling are necessary to completely eliminate the resin in the bark. After all, resinous substances prevent the normal wetting of the bark, and by planting an orchid in a poorly prepared bark, we risk that its roots will disappear. After all, it is for this that the bark is boiled, and not in order to kill various microorganisms in it, as many people think.

Do not use advice from the Internet that advises to simply fry the bark in the oven or microwave. By doing this, you will only harm your orchids, since the resinous substances will only bake, and turn into a substance similar to epoxy resin in the bark, which you can’t boil out even in a day. Also, do not dry the bark in the oven and microwave after boiling. Partly for the same reason. If some part of the resin is not boiled down, it will be baked in the oven. And even if all the resinous substances have boiled out, drying in the oven will bring the bark to such a state that in order for it to begin to absorb water, it will have to be kept in water for a day. Therefore, simply on an old piece of fabric, spreading newspapers, spread the boiled bark and dry it to WET! condition, but not completely dry. And only in the wet bark we plant an orchid. This will help the orchid roots to tolerate the transplant more easily, the bark will not dry out, and it will be easier for the orchid to adapt to such soil. All the same as described above applies to the bark that you collect in the forest yourself. But you need to collect the bark in the forest not from living trees, but from fallen ones, even better a little rotten. In such a bark, there are fewer tannins and resinous substances. Many hobbyists cannot buy pine bark in their area. Look in online stores called pine mulch or pine bark. Mulch comes in large bags, you can share it with someone if this bag is too much for you. Pine bark comes in small packages. If it is absolutely not possible to buy pine bark, then orchids can be planted in the bark of other trees. This is the bark of Siberian larch, spruce, pine, pine, cypress, fern roots (thick part of the root), the bark of such deciduous trees as: birch, cherry, poplar, willow. But this bark also needs to be prepared the same way. The literature also mentions that it is possible to plant orchids in oak bark, but due to the fact that it slowly decomposes, has a lot of tannins, many experienced orchid growers consider oak bark not acceptable for planting orchids. Are there any other additives to pine bark? I believe that charcoal can be added, it helps to destroy putrefactive processes. Sphagnum moss, in small quantities, in addition to maintaining the moisture capacity of the bark, also plays the role of an antiseptic. Even during the First World War, sphagnum moss was used in field hospitals. It was applied to festering wounds. It helped to cleanse wounds from pus, promoted wound healing. It is an excellent antiseptic. But you need to be careful with it, because without sufficient experience, you can flood the orchid, which will lead to the death of the roots. Many add high or low ground peat, this is an excellent nutrient that helps abundant flowering orchids, but insidious in that for inexperienced lovers it can lead to rotting of the roots, due to the inability to properly water an orchid in such a substrate. Therefore, all supplements are a purely individual matter. The only thing I can advise personally from myself, do not be afraid to put some charcoal. This will not harm you, but the benefits of it are undeniable. And yet such little secret. Do not completely throw away the old substrate in which the orchid lived, add a little (about 5, 6 parts) of its large pieces to the new prepared substrate. The fact is that orchids live in symbiosis with certain beneficial fungi and bacteria that remain in the old soil that you throw away. By adding it to new ground, you move these fungi and microorganisms into a new substrate in which they multiply over time. This contributes to the fastest adaptation of the orchid in the new soil and its subsequent good development and growth. That is precisely why I do not recommend transplanting new orchids into new soil unnecessarily, because the old soil contains these useful mycoses and bacteria, and the orchid adapts better to such soil in the new apartment conditions and disappears less often. and for the same reason, I do not recommend new orchid without the need to immediately shed any fungicides for prevention. Because fungicides kill these beneficial fungi and bacteria just as well as the bad ones.

Often the bark of trees such as larch, oak, pine, spruce is used to create mulching material.

When you set out to collect the bark, you do not need to cut it from living trees at all. It contains a lot of resinous substances, and this greatly harms the plant. You should also not collect bark from old stumps. Usually, it is already heavily tormented by insects, and becomes almost unusable. best material for collection will be freshly cut or recently blown down trees (six months). From such trees, the bark begins to lag behind, but does not rot. And this perfect option!

For use, the bark is crushed to the right sizes using a secateurs. After it is thermally processed. If you do not carry out this procedure, then you may have harmless and not very neighbors. When processing, the bark must be boiled or processed for 10-15 minutes. You can leave the bark in the oven for 15 minutes at a temperature of 70 degrees Celsius. Steam treatment is not recommended.

Which mulch is more suitable: softwood or hardwood? Here leading role plays a purpose, as well as the availability of material for mulching. If you have a pine forest nearby, then, of course, you can use the bark of these trees. If the garden has a lot of heather, rhododendrons and conifers, it is better to use the latter, since it contains a large number of mushroom mycorrhiza. Oak bark lasts a little longer than coniferous - about twice. But it emits tannins, which have a rather negative effect on some types of plants. Therefore, before using it, you need to study whether it is suitable or not.

The bark of dead pines - optimum material for adding to substrates, because it contains little resin and is thoroughly processed by weather and insects, and it is these two factors that make the bark something edible for plants.
So, during a forest walk, we come across a dead pine tree... Of course, we are all very thrifty, and in some pocket we will certainly find a plastic bag taken "just in case".
The main interest for us is the bark, which is easily separated from the wood. With a slight blow on the trunk, we knock off excess insects from it and put it in a bag. You can also pick up those pieces that have fallen off themselves and are lying on the ground. Don't forget to grab some pine cones as well - they will work for our purposes too.
Having brought the bark home, you can immediately start processing it, or you can take it to the balcony to mature, in the expectation that the remaining insects will run away. But do not hope - all the same, all the inhabitants will not voluntarily leave their refuge, and we absolutely do not need them in pots. That is why the bark must be subjected to heat treatment.
Boiling will destroy not only insects, but also their eggs and larvae. Also, when boiling, substances that inhibit plant growth are rapidly dissolved and washed out. The main part of the resin will also boil out, although some of it will inevitably remain even after processing. It has been observed that a small amount of resin in the substrate will not interfere with the growth and flowering of orchids.

So, let's start processing:

We break too large pieces of bark, shake them off the debris and put them in an ordinary galvanized bucket. We press down on top with a flat stone (or we arrange oppression from something else) so that pieces of bark do not float up, fill it with water and put it on fire.
Note 1: Do not use your (or your mother's) favorite pot to boil the bark! It will be ruined forever!
Note 2: Removing tar scale from the edge of a galvanized bucket is easy if you wipe the still hot bucket with the hard side of a wet sponge for washing dishes.

Bring to a boil and simmer over low heat for about an hour.
After putting out the fire, we wait for the water to cool.
We take out the bark and throw it into a colander - let the water drain from it, and it will dry out a little. Slightly damp bark is better to immediately cut or break into small fractions and only then dry it. In this crushed form, it takes up less space and is ready to use.
The size of the pieces into which you crush the bark depends on which plants the substrate is being prepared for.
For young orchids, pieces of 1x1 cm or 1.5x1.5 cm are suitable. Larger pieces (2x2) are suitable for ferns, adult epiphytes and semi-epiphytes.

If you want to prepare an airy and moisture-intensive substrate, the bark can be chopped in a meat grinder, after removing the grate from it. However, it is much more convenient to use a secateurs: with its help we cut the bark into small pieces; in tight (construction) mittens, we grind them to smooth sharp corners. The dust that accumulates in this case is an excellent substrate for cymbidiums and any other terrestrial orchids.

Lay out the bark to dry. When it is completely dry, it can be packaged in bags, divided into small portions. This reduces the likelihood that some domestic bugs, butterflies or ants will choose it.
If the stored bark is moldy, it is not necessary to boil it again. If all the conditions for keeping orchids are met, this white coating does not pose a threat to plant life. Mold and other similar fungi are normal orchid symbiotics.

At present, the Phalaenopsis orchid has gained wide popularity among flower growers, thanks to the ease of care and grace of flower stalks with a huge variety of flowers. For the growth and development of this beauty, you need not only the right temperature regime and care, but also the soil, thanks to which the plant receives required amount nutrients across root system. It is the bark for orchids that plays an important role in creating a favorable habitat. In this article, you will find out which substrate is suitable for a full-fledged life cycle phalaenopsis, how to prepare the bark at home.

To date, in flower shops a wide range of special soils are presented that are suitable for orchids. The main requirements for them are good moisture retention to nourish the roots, quick drying to avoid acidification of the soil, excellent air passage and lack of compaction. The composition of such a finished planting substrate often includes components:

• expanded clay drainage;
• bark coniferous trees(pines, spruces, larches, pines);
• riding peat;
• coal.

If necessary, you can also purchase additional fillers, such as coconut fibers, fern rhizomes, pine cones. Such soil is important for the orchid not only as a nutrient medium for the epiphyte, but also as a plant fixative in a pot.

If orchids decided to prepare the soil for their room pet on their own at home, then you should take this issue very seriously. Walking in a park, square or going into the forest, it would be nice to collect cones and bark of coniferous trees.

It is advisable to pay attention to pieces of a dense fraction with a thickness of at least 1-2 cm, avoiding those that are spoiled by bark beetles, as they will quickly turn into dust. It is better to collect bark from already fallen pines, since it already contains a minimum amount of resin. Do not pluck pieces from growing trees, causing damage to plants. It is advisable not to choose dark color sun-burned bark contaminated with fungi. This can lead to flower disease.

Video “Preparation of pine bark”

The video shows how to prepare the bark for caring for orchids.

Processing and preparation

The processing of the bark should be approached very carefully. Immediately after collection, it is necessary to review it for the presence of insects, clean off the resin and select the appropriate one. Carefully remove damaged and rotten areas with a knife. Then rinse it well and dry it. Using a secateurs, knife or manual meat grinder, grind into pieces 1.5-2 cm in size, which are subsequently further crushed (up to 0.5-1 cm) for planting young plants.

When cutting, uniform neat cubes are not always obtained, but this will not affect the development of the plant as a whole. The prepared bark is poured hot water and insist for an hour to wash out coniferous resins that negatively affect the life of the orchid. After that, they are washed, again poured with hot water and boiled for 30-40 minutes to kill insect larvae and pupae.

You can use the method of drying in the oven at low temperatures. The bark is laid out on a baking sheet at a temperature of 60-70 ° C and calcined for 10 minutes with the door ajar oven. This is a gentle method in which beneficial microflora is preserved. After heat treatment the bark is laid out on paper in a thin layer to dry until completely dry. It must be placed in a place where there is good air circulation so that mold does not appear on its surface.

How to prepare the substrate

To prepare the soil, the bark of coniferous trees (pines, spruces, larches, pines), sphagnum moss and charcoal is used. Moss in dried form can be purchased at the store or independently collected in the spring in the forest in wetlands. Then dry it in the shade or freeze it in the refrigerator for further use in the substrate.

one more important element for planting an epiphyte is a fern. In the spring, its roots are dug up, thoroughly dried and cut into small fragments (up to 2-3 cm).

Charcoal is collected after burned logs. It is advisable not to use incendiary mixtures for a fire. It is good to add crushed coconut and walnut shells to the substrate, which will act as a baking powder. All these ingredients are added to the already prepared pine bark, forming a substrate for the orchid.