How to cover a hip roof with a metal tile. How to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands

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Increasingly as roofing material metal tiles are used. This modern material is lightweight and durable. That is why it is popular with both professional developers and amateur builders. This article will allow you to learn how to cover the roof with metal tiles.

Preparing the roof for installation

Before the beginning roofing works foundation should be prepared. To do this, you need to measure the slopes. Here it is important to make sure that the roof is even. In case of distortions, it is necessary to without fail align the edges of the overhangs in a straight line. metal tiles with an uneven base is fraught with leakage. Therefore, it is important to understand how to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands.

The second board should be installed at a distance of 30-40 cm, and the rest should be mounted in increments of 35-45 cm. The exact step of the crate depends on overall dimensions tiles and its profile. In order to accurately determine this distance, you can do the following. Two pieces of boards are placed parallel to each other on the ground. Then they are covered with one sheet of tiles. This design allows you to see how much the protrusion of the element will allow water to drain from the roof. A very large ledge is highly undesirable, as rainwater will overflow through the drain. At the same time, too little protrusion will cause the wind to blow water between the cornice board and the gutter.

In order to understand how to cover a house with metal tiles, you can try to make a template on the ground by laying several sheets of tiles on boards. In this case, you can achieve a better installation of the crate. After its installation, you can proceed to fastening the wind and ridge bar. fasten above the crate at a distance equivalent to the size of the sheet. The horse is additionally fixed with boards. Next, a cornice strip is attached to the roof overhang.

Before laying the tiles themselves, it is necessary to install brackets designed to fasten the gutters. They are mounted at intervals of 50-60 cm, while it is necessary to organize some slope that will allow water to easily flow down. Typically, for 1 meter of gutter length, the slope is 5 mm.

The gutter is attached to the installed brackets, and the eaves rail is mounted on the crate so that the bottom edge of the board overlaps the bottom edge of the gutter. Such an approach is necessary so that the condensate that collects on the waterproofing film can drain directly into the gutter.

After installing the crate, but before installing the metal tile, the roof must be insulated and vapor and waterproofing should be organized (read: ""). In parallel with this, it is necessary to bring out the chimney and ventilation pipes. The first layer is laid vapor barrier film. It is designed to protect the insulation from moisture. Laying the film is accompanied by careful fastening of the seams with a special adhesive tape.

A layer of insulation is laid on top of the vapor barrier. Often, the materials used for these purposes also have soundproof properties (read also: ""). If the premises are used for household or if you plan to make a “cold” roof, then you can do without thermal insulation.

The third layer of the "pie" of the roof is a waterproofing film. It should protect the house from condensate and water that accidentally seeped under the roof. It is carefully laid with an overlap, and the seams are connected together.

If the roof is not prepared well enough, then the metal tile may lie unevenly, which is fraught with leaks. Next, we will tell you how to properly cover the roof with a metal tile.

Required Tools

In order to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, you must have the following tools available:

After all the necessary tools and materials have already been purchased, you can proceed to the most important part - the installation of metal tiles.

Tiling

You can cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands according to the following sequence of actions:

• the first sheet of tiles is fastened with a self-tapping screw to the crate at the ridge strip;
• the next element is set so that the bottom edge of the row is perfectly even. The overlap of the sheets is fastened with a self-tapping screw above the lower part of the first convexity;
• The quality of the joints should be checked regularly. In case of insufficient or uneven joint, it is leveled by slightly lifting the top sheet. The sheets are fastened together with screws in the upper part of the wave. In this case, you should ensure that they do not touch the crate. If you now screw a screw into a tree, then the sheets cannot be moved and aligned;
• after 3 or 4 sheets are installed, it is necessary to align the bottom edge with the eaves. Only now can the sheets be finally fixed;
• all following sheets fit similarly, taking into account the shape and . The main thing is to ensure that all sheets of tiles are placed under the next with the same overlap.

If in any way the edges of the tile sheet have been damaged, they should be painted protective paint. The same is recommended if there are scratches or chips on the surface. If this is not done, then under the influence of moisture the roof will begin to rust.

If the gutter has a rectangular shape, then its profiles are inserted into the holders in accordance with the requirements of the instructions, and then fixed. The gutter with a round profile is inserted from the back into the already fixed holders.

When performing, you should pay attention to all the details of installation. If you close your eyes to some errors in the installation, then in the end you will have to redo all the work. Especially carefully it is necessary to draw up ventilation and chimneys, output for installation of a television antenna.

The antenna lead is cut off at the top. Next, it is installed on the rack. All joints obtained are fixed with silicone glue and screws. To remove the ventilation pipe, a hole is made in the tile. Then on

The roof of a house can "tell" a lot about its owners. This architectural element is probably the first to catch the eye, creating a certain opinion about the whole structure in advance. It is not surprising that the issue of roof design is always given the highest attention, especially now, when there are a lot of different options.

They always looked very advantageous, and even now they look at houses covered with a tiled roof - they are distinguished by special accuracy and impressiveness. But here's the problem - a real ceramic tile is very expensive, and its laying can in no way be attributed to cheap or easy to do-it-yourself technological processes. That is why a very reasonable solution would be to purchase a metal roof for your home, which very reliably imitates tiled masonry. And if you still carefully figure out how to properly use metal tiles on your own, without involving a team of specialists, then you can get for a very moderate amount excellent roof, which will be reliable and, in addition, will become a real decoration of housing.

Creating such a roof with metal-tiled coating can be divided into several stages:

- correct selection of material;

- calculation of the required amount of metal tiles and "consumables";

- preparation of the roof structure for roofing;

- flooring metal-tiled coatings;

- design of complex sections of the roof.

It would seem that the question does not differ in severity and complexity - just choose the one that is most suitable for the planned design of the building. However, this is not quite true. may differ in its configuration, size, type of coverage, degree of protection, etc.

Structure metal-tiled sheet

First of all, you need to get an idea of ​​what kind of layered structure this roofing material has.

• The basis is always a metal (most often steel) sheet (pos. 1), with a thickness of 0.45 to 0.5 mm. It is he who holds the shape given to the tile, resists the coating.

Thicker steel sheets add unnecessary weight to the roof structure without any significant performance benefits. But it is better not to purchase a metal tile with a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.4 mm or less - such a coating can quickly jam during installation, or during operation under even a not very heavy load.

Expensive models of metal tiles can be made of aluminum or even copper, but due to the high price they are not in great demand.

• To prevent oxidation of the steel sheet, it is coated on both sides with an anti-corrosion layer (item 2). It can be the usual "galvanization" or a more perfect aluminum-zinc coating.
• On both sides of the galvanized metal in a high-quality metal tile, the so-called passivating layer (pos. 3) is necessarily applied - based on silicon dioxide or phosphate compounds. This layer almost completely eliminates the occurrence of chemical oxidative reactions.
• Further, also on both sides, there is a layer of epoxy primer. (pos. 4) This gives additional protection to the metal base and ensures reliable adhesion of all other decorative and protective layers.
• From the back, the sheets have an acrylic or polyester coating (item 5). It, in principle, does not perform a decorative function, and serves only as a reliable protective line.
• From the outside, a certain decorative effect is applied to the sheets. polymer coating(pos. 6), which largely determines both the class and the cost of the metal tile.
• In some types of roofing material, additional layers are also used. For example, a layer of basalt chips (item 7) can be applied, giving the coating a look that is as close to natural as possible. There are models with a printed pattern, for one or another natural structure, or even with a fantasy pattern. But with additional decorative design For metal tiles, an external transparent coating (for example, acrylate) is always used, which is resistant to abrasion and UV rays (item 8).

Varieties of external coating

The most common and inexpensive - polyester coating, glossy ...

The most inexpensive, and therefore the most widespreadamong average builders, is a polyester coating. He always has bright, saturated colors, in the richest variety. Suitable for almost any Russian climatic zones. The disadvantage is not too "outstanding" durability, although 10 — 15 years without loss external qualities manufacturers usually guarantee.

… or matte

The introduction of a Teflon component into polyester paint and varnish compositions leads to the production of metal tiles with a matte polyester coating. Perhaps, in contrast to pure polyester, there is a slight surface roughness, on which a trace of mechanical damage (scratches) or areas of paint fading in the sun will be much less noticeable. Such a metal tile should last much longer - up to 25 - 30 years.

The densest and thickest coating (up to 200 microns thick) is plastisol. Its main component is ordinary polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Such a metal tile has excellent qualities in terms of the mechanical strength of the coating, but with the temperature range of operation it is worse here - plastisol does not like either too low, negative, or high temperatures, more than + 60 degrees. And an important advantage of such a coating is the possibility of giving it a micro-relief structure, imitation of the texture of leather, wood, natural stone, etc.

One of the most modern and reliable coatings is puralcreated on the basis of polyurethane. He has an enviable service life, over 30 years, almost complete corrosion invulnerability, immunity to ultraviolet rays. The only serious disadvantage of metal tiles with a pural coating is the high price.

The most wear-resistant and durable - PVDF coating

And the biggest "aristocrat" among the coatings of metal tiles is composite, based on polyvinyl difluoride(up to 80%) and acrylic resins (about 20%). Such a composition is often referred to by the abbreviation PVDF (PVDF). Such material is not afraid of either serious mechanical stress or hot direct sun rays (it won't fade) nor aggressive external environment - the best choice for regions with high humidity, For example, on the sea coast. PVDF coating always looks fresh, as it self-cleans very well under the influence of atmospheric precipitation.

The main operational characteristics of metal tile coatings are summarized for convenience in the following table:

Specifications metal tile coverings	Polyester	Matte polyester	Plastisol	PVDF	Pural
Corrosion resistance	Satisfactory	Good	Good	Good	Excellent
Coating poasticity	Satisfactory	Satisfactory	Good	Good	Good
UV resistance	Good	Very good	Good	Excellent	Very good
Consistent "freshness" appearance	Satisfactory	Good	Good	Good	Good
Coating thickness (µm)	25	35	100 - 200	28	50
Operating temperature - maximum (°С)	+120	+120	+60	+120	+120
Operating temperature - minimum (°C)	-10	-10	+10	-10	-10

The coating of the metal tile can be monochrome, or it can have any pattern made using the Printtech technology.

Drawings based on "Printech" technology

This is also a polyester coating, but with applied imitation of masonry, shingles, etc. natural materials. On the one hand, of course, it looks original, but if you place such a roof at the level of the third floor and above, then all meaning is lost, since on long distance such a coating will no longer look. Therefore, most often such decoration is used for corrugated board used for fences or facade work.

Slightly blurred "cloudy" pattern gives a special look to the roof

Another type of decoration is rapidly gaining popularity metal-tiled roofs - use of "cloudy" technology. Such a surface is distinguished by fuzzy, blurred forms of the applied color shade, as if the roof was “touched by time” or covered with a “noble patina”. Literally, the name translates as "cloudy", which, in principle, fully describes this visual effect.

Another type of coating is "Terra Plegel", with a pronounced rough external texture, almost indistinguishable from a distance from natural clay tiles. Such a roof looks extremely original, but the price of the material is high. In addition, there are two things to keep in mind. On such a roof slope, dust, dirt, foliage, etc. will accumulate to a greater extent. And secondly, if an ordinary metal tile exerts a specific pressure on the roof truss system of about 5 kg / m², then Terra Plegel will give all 8 kg / m², which will require a more reinforced structure.

Most common models of metal tiles and their linear dimensions

Before you calculate the total estimate for covering the roof with a metal tile, you must immediately decide on its model. The fact is that different types of this roofing material can have different linear dimensions, overlap areas of adjacent sheets, profile height, number of waves, etc.

The variety of types of metal tiles, even without taking into account its color design, is quite large. Consider some of the most popular models:

• "Cascade" is a metal tile that will suit lovers of clear geometric shapes. The drawing for the roofing will resemble a large "chocolate bar". This profile is most convenient for large-sized roof structures that are not full of small and complex fragments. .

The strict geometric forms of the "Cascade" ...

"Cascade" is considered the most convenient option and from the point of view of the economy of use - its useful area, due to a small overlap, is the most significant.

... and sheet options

Important note: the above diagram with the linear dimensions of the "cascade" - the length and width of each "tile", the height of the wave and the stepped difference, the total and useful width of the sheet, etc., is not at all mandatory for all coatings of this type. For different manufacturers, these indicators can vary significantly, and it will be necessary to take real parameters characteristic of a particular material as a basis for calculations. This applies to all models of metal tiles - the diagrams are given only as an example.

• The "palm" in popularity, along with the "cascade", is firmly held by the "monterrey" metal tile.

Monterrey metal tile is very popular

It is characterized by rounded, somewhat asymmetrical shapes that look great on any slopes, perfectly conveying the atmosphere of the old classic tiles.

andalusia" is a profile with steep, symmetrical, rounded waves.

Andalusian parameters

Well suited for buildings made in the style of "southern Europe". Some varieties of this model are accompanied by a system of hidden fastenings for mounting without damaging the surface.

• The modern model largely repeats the monterrey profile, but differs from it in more straightened geometric shapes.

Metal tile "modern"

• A very beautiful, voluminous picture of the roof is given by the “banga” metal tile with a pronounced high profile.

The roof with "banga" tiles looks very nice

As a drawback, it can be noted that this is one of the most “uneconomical” models in terms of the useful sheet width.

• "Joker" - a metal tile with smooth symmetrical waves with a pointed upper ridge. Gives the roof the effect of a classic "Old European" house ».

Profile and dimensions of the metal tile "Joker"

• And for those who want to give their structure an oriental flavor, we can advise shanghai metal tile with characteristic stripes along the bottom of a large rounded wave.

For lovers of oriental flavor - profile "shanghai"

When choosing a metal tile, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that the height of the profile directly affects the rigidity and stability of the coating - the higher the wave, the stronger the material. But, on the other hand, the higher the coating profile, the smaller the useful area of ​​the sheet.

For different manufacturers, this parameter can vary significantly - from 22 ÷ 25 mm to 78 mm. The most popular models are characterized by a height in the range of 40 - 50 mm.

Now - about the length of the sheets. Each model has its own dimensions of one "tile", that is, a longitudinal row. This, basically, predetermines the possibility of cutting blanks into one or another linear size, so there are certain restrictions along the line cutting. So, for example, absolutely unacceptable cut straight along the stepped transition between the rows.

Ideally, the line should run in the center of the row. or with some minimum indentation specified for each model (for example, 40 — 50 mm). By the way, even tables of unacceptable sizes have been developed for some types of metal tiles. - this can be found in the technical documentation.

Accordingly, each model has its own minimum sheet size - it varies from 0.45 to 0.8 meters. The maximum length is limited by the technological features of the manufacturer's equipment and the possibilities for transporting the finished material without the risk of its deformation. Usually the maximum length lies within 6 (rarely - 8) meters. Responsible companies involved in the production and sale of metal tiles, as a rule, include in the list of their services the cutting of roofing material according to the size of the customer.

Video: some tips for choosing metal tiles

Prices for different types of tiles

Roof tiles

How to calculate the required amount of metal tiles

One of the most crucial moments in a series of flooring events metal-tiled roofing - the correct calculation of the required amount of material.

The easiest way in this case is to use the services of companies involved in the production and sale of metal tiles - they probably have special software for each model of coverage. It will be enough to very accurately measure the dimensions of the roof structure, and on this basis, the number of required sheets and the length of each of them will be calculated, taking into account longitudinal and transverse overlaps, cornice overhangs, etc.

If for some reason this service is not available, you can try to find specialized calculator programs on the Internet and use them to calculate the amount of material online. The error in this case, of course, will be greater.

Self-calculation of metal tiles is not an easy task

The most difficult option is an independent calculation of the roof structure. If the landlord decides to take such a step, then he must mobilize all his attentiveness and accuracy, mathematical abilities and spatial imagination.

Approach the calculation of the required amount of metal tiles from the standpoint of calculating the total area of ​​​​the roof and tasks certain a reserve (in percent), such as practiced on floor coverings, will not work. There are a number of reasons for this:

• The tile has a clear spatial orientation, and cuttings from one place can not always be used in another, for example, they cannot be turned over “mirror-like”.
• The wavy shape in the longitudinal and transverse directions significantly narrows the possibility of using cut-off fragments without disturbing the overall pattern of the roof.
• This is also hampered by the need for minimum longitudinal and transverse overlaps of neighboring sections established by technology.

First of all, you need to highest precision measure all parameters of the roof. This will not be difficult, for example, on a conventional gable or single-pitched roof, but if the rafter system has a hip or tent structure, replete with additional architectural elements - spiers, turrets and the like, then you will have to tinker a lot. Moreover, very great importance will have not only linear dimensions, but also the exact angles of the resulting figures.

As a result, each of the slopes, each plane of the roof will receive its image on paper in the plan, in the form of a two-dimensional figure with clearly marked dimensions, sustained on a certain scale.

The entire roof is "laid out" along the slopes

The calculation of sheets and their length is carried out for each section individually. And the geometric shapes of the plots are very diverse - from rectangles and triangles to trapezoids or parallelograms with very complex curved edges and additional cutouts.

• The easiest way, of course, is to calculate the material for a rectangular slope.

In fact, here only the length and width of the section are involved in the calculations, taking into account the exit to the cornice (in this example, B = 50 mm) and the necessary overlap between the sheets in height (C = 150 mm). In this case, the length of the bottom sheet must be a multiple of the wave pitch (for example, 350 mm) plus 150 mm for overlap. The top sheet is cut along the ridge and will be hidden by the ridge overlay.

If the slope height (A) allows you to cover with one sheet, then this parameter C is simply not taken into account.

And it is not difficult to calculate the number of sheets in length - the length of the section is divided by the useful width of the sheet and rounded up to the nearest integer. For example, for a six-meter section with a usable width of 1100 mm, it will turn out: 6000: 1100 \u003d 5.45 sheets, that is, 6 whole sheets.

On a separate sheet of paper, you can immediately mark the number and the size of the metal will go to waste. It is possible that they can be used on another section of the roof. However, the owner of the house must be prepared for the fact that a lot of material will go to waste.

• The situation is more complicated with triangular sections - they must be filled in the diagram in such a way as to minimize waste, but completely close the entire plane without disturbing the pattern:

• Very often there are options for a rectangular slope with a triangular cut:

• On the roofs of a fanciful configuration, even more complex figures can turn out:

• Usually, the work is carried out in such a way that, first, entire rectangular sections are filled in the diagrams. Then they already move on to the remaining, not blocked sections - it will be easier to imagine whether it will be possible and where to use the cut off fragment.
• All drawings with calculations must be worked out with the utmost accuracy and clarity - they will subsequently become the main assembly guide for installation roofing.
• When calculating the required material, one should never lose sight of necessary the number of additional elements. So, for sure, you will need cornice and end strips, ridge linings, external and internal valleys, adjoining strips to walls, plugs, snow-retaining barriers and other details.

When determining the number of additional elements, they usually focus on the need to create a 5% reserve for their linear dimensions.

By the way, due to inexperience, many homeowners miss the cost of additional elements during the initial estimate of the cost of the roof. Meanwhile, practice shows that these details take up to 30% of the total estimate.

• The next question is the type and number of screws required for installation.

As a rule, self-tapping screws made of high-quality galvanized steel are used for metal tiles. There is always a press washer with a sealing gasket made of resistant EPDM rubber. Really branded fasteners always have the brand of the manufacturer on the hat.

Self-tapping screws are produced in a wide variety of shades of powder paint, which covers the hexagon head and the front side of the press washer - there is always the possibility of selecting fasteners that are most suitable in color to the roofing material.

The diagram shows the main technical parameters of roofing screws:

When installing metal tiles, the following main dimensions are usually used:

• To fasten the sheets to the bottom of the wave (the main method of fixation), self-tapping screws 4.8 × 28 or 4.8 × 35 mm are used.
• For fastening metal sheets to each other - self-tapping screws 4.8 × 20 mm.
• To fix the additional elements of the roof, you will need self-tapping screws 4.8 × 50 or 4.8 × 70 mm.

The number of screws may vary. Usually, the installation instructions for a particular type of metal tile indicate the layout of the fasteners. Moreover, some manufacturers of roofing materials lay the required number of self-tapping screws in the kit for the coating, in a certain proportion to the area and the number of joints between the sheets. In any case, you need to be prepared for the fact that during the installation process it will take up to 10 self-tapping screws per square meter Spare the square.

Self-tapping screws have a tip in the form of a drill, which, in principle, makes it possible to do without pre-drilling the roofing material. However, as practice shows, there are times when it is more reliable from the point of view of fixation strength and from the standpoint of maintaining the integrity of the coating from scratches, to carry out preliminary drilling in the right place. To do this, you need to have a drill with a diameter of 2.8 to 3 mm on hand (no more, otherwise the reliability of fastening is not guaranteed).

Video: the choice of self-tapping screws for installation metal tiles

Preparing the roof structure for decking metal tiles

- an excellent material for roofing, but it is not not set absolutely no thermal insulation function. Therefore, such a coating is almost always laid on the roof where Prior to this, measures were taken to warm it up.

It is not necessary to focus too much attention at this stage in this article - the issues are discussed in great detail in the corresponding publication of our portal. So confine ourselves to those elements that skew above truss system.

So, on top of the layer of thermal insulation material, located between the rafter legs, a waterproofing film is necessarily laid.

It is laid in horizontal stripes. upwards, with an overlap of at least 150 mm between adjacent sheets. Initially, a sag of about 20 - 30 mm is left on the cornice. For some films important condition is to observe the correct arrangement of the sides - there is a color marking that should look up.

The film material is fixed to the rafters with slats or bars of the counter-lattice, with the exception of a small area near the cornice overhang - a guide must first be installed here initial crate and cornice plank. The film should come out over these elements.

After mounting the counter-lattice, guide battens are installed. For them, boards with a width of 100 mm, a thickness of 25 - 30 mm are used. The step between the guides depends on the specific model of the metal tile and is usually indicated in the technical documentation for a specific type of roofing material. For example, the figure shows several options for the most popular metal tile models:

At the same time, the initial lath of the crate is always higher than the others (it is assembled from two laths), and the step between it and the second rail is reduced by 50 mm.

At the junction of slopes, around pipes or skylights, at the attachment points snow-retaining elements are continuous crate, as additional details will be attached here. Necessarily, regardless of the step of the crate, two solid boards are mounted for attaching the ridge lining. Planks are fastened from the ends of the roof, which should be higher than the common crate by the height of the metal tile profile.

Usually, the installation of the eaves and roofing itself is preceded by the installation of elements of the drainage system, in particular, brackets for subsequent fastening of gutters on them. You can read more about how to do this correctly in our publication on issues.

After the crate is ready, the starting cornice rails and other elements provided for by the roof structure are mounted, you can proceed to installation metal-tiled coatings.

Installation of sheets of metal

It should immediately be noted that any work at height requires special precautions and insurance. A scheme should be provided for feeding the material up, so as not to jam the sheets - usually, for this, peculiar guides - skids from flat boards.

Work should be carried out in shoes with soft, preferably rubber soles that do not leave black marks on the surface. You can step only on the bottom of the wave in the places where the guides of the crate pass.

Requires a tool to work nt for cutting sheets of metal. There is no question of any grinder - this tool is especially capable of damaging the structure of the metal in the area cutting, and a polymer coating from numerous sparks. Cutting is carried out using a circular electric saw, hand or electric scissors, sometimes you can resort to a conventional hacksaw.

Directly for fastening the sheets, you will need a drill, a screwdriver with an 8 mm hex socket. You will need a long rail - as a ruler to control the evenness of the location of the sheets of metal. A massive metal ruler (linden rule) will not be very convenient here, and besides, it can scratch the surface. For the same reason, as a measuring tool, you need to use a tape measure not with a metal, but with a cloth tape.

Sheets are prepared and they are carried out in accordance with the schemes according to which the material was calculated. Installation is always upwards and usually in the direction from right to left - in this case, each subsequent sheet covers the previous one. If there is a need to carry out installation in reverse direction, from left to right, then the leaf etc It is necessary to slip under the already installed one.

If it has an angular shape, then it is more convenient to start with covering entire sections or a sheet with maximum height, and then go to the fragments on the left and right. But it must be taken into account correct order placement of sheets - where they need to be laid on top, and where - slip under the already mounted one.

According to what scheme are screws screwed in? There is no consensus here, since manufacturers often accompany their materials with layouts for fasteners, and they can vary significantly. So, in particular, it is recommended to mount some profiles along the starting guide battens in each lower wave, and in other cases, you can meet recommendations - through the wave. In any case, it is always necessary to study the technical documentation of the metal tile with special attention beforehand.

The first sheet is initially aligned along the edge of the eaves and temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw from above (near the ridge) centered on bottom of the wave. Then the second sheet of the same horizontal row is installed, the necessary overlap is performed. The second sheet is also aligned along the eaves, and then, through fastening through both sheets, they are twisted together along the top of the wave in the overlap area on the lower “tile”. In this case, a short self-tapping screw is used, so that there is no fixation to the crate in this place. It remains once again to very accurately align the edges of both sheets already fastened together, and then carry out their final fixation to the crate with self-tapping screws along the bottom of the wave.

Self-tapping screws are usually staggered, although, as already mentioned, manufacturers can recommend an individual, highly specific fastener pattern. For example, two different options fixing sheets of metal:

Before proceeding to the final fastening of the roofing material, it is required to correctly set the tightening torque of the self-tapping screw. If it is loosely tightened, the sealing gum will not securely block the hole from moisture penetration. An excessively high tightening torque is no less dangerous - the washer can bend upwards, which will also lead to a poor fit of the gasket, and in addition - to possible deformation of the sheet or even to turning the self-tapping screw in the wooden base of the crate - which means that there may not be a quality connection here be. How to properly tighten the self-tapping screw is shown in the diagram.

You can first practice on scraps of metal and laths of the crate to expose the most optimal tightening force.

Distortions of self-tapping screws - unacceptable

No less dangerous is the incorrect location of the self-tapping screw in relation to the guide battens. The fastener should be screwed in exclusively perpendicularly, trying to avoid even a slight distortion.

Installation of individual roof elements

If there are usually no problems with the flooring of straight sections after the hand is stuffed, then some structural elements may require special attention. Even if we do not consider specific complex nodes, such as skylights or external stairs, then end sections, ridge joints, reverse corners or chimneys are present on almost any roof.

Improper installation of these sections will lead to leakage, and the roof of the house will look extremely sloppy.

• The end plate is installed in order to protect the roofing from the effects of side wind, which is why it is often called wind. It is fastened with nails or self-tapping screws to the wooden parts of the crate on the side and top. If several planks are used, then their overlap with each other should be of the order of 70 - 100 mm.

• The ridge rail should be mounted as tightly as possible to prevent precipitation from entering the joint between two slopes, but at the same time, normal air circulation from the ridge space to the outside should be ensured to avoid condensation.

Particular attention to the ridge knot

Ridge bars can be rounded or angled. They are fastened with the obligatory installation of sealing material between them and the surface of the metal tile. Fixation is carried out with long self-tapping screws through the plank, the flooring into the batten guide along the top of the wave, with a step of about 300 - 400 mm. When using several planks, they are given an overlap of 100 mm.

The same ridge profiles are installed on all external "fractures" of the roof, for example, along corner joints hip roof edges.

• To adjoin vertical surfaces, in particular, to chimney brick pipes, special profiles are used - they are called so, adjoining strips.

To ensure reliable waterproofing of the area in the area of ​​​​the pipe, at first, even before the metal tile flooring, a solid steel sheet is attached from the brickwork on the surface of the continuous crate (it is often called a “tie”). He must go on to the cornice overhang or to the nearest valley. It is advisable to provide a "tie" with small sides on both sides to prevent even accidental water leakage when it penetrates under the roof.

Then, along the perimeter of the pipe, a lower abutment (aprons) is installed. The existing protrusions of the slats are recessed into the ones made in brickwork strobes and sealed with sealant.

Then the roofing is made metal-tiled coatings. And on top of it, the upper adjoining strips are installed on the screws, which are also recessed into the masonry with their protrusions.

If the roof slope at its upper point adjoins a vertical solid wall, then the joint is formed with the same planks and using the same technology.

• Internal fractures of the roof, where the descending slopes of the roof meet, are finished with special profile elements called valleys.

As already mentioned, a continuous crate is always made in this area. Previously, even before the flooring of the roofing itself, an internal valley is installed along the entire length of this inner corner, up to the cornice overhang. between profile and wooden details a solid rubber seal can be installed.

Then the metal tile flooring is made in accordance with the scheme. And the next step, in order to give the structure a finished and neat look, an external valley is mounted. By the way, many experienced roofers do not recommend installing an external valley - it is always clogged under it great amount dirt m dry leaves that interfere with the normal flow of water.

After all the installation work of the roof is completed, it is necessary to carefully sweep away the remaining metal filings from the surface, which can be formed when screwing in self-tapping screws or trimming parts in place. The protective film coating, if any, must be removed from the metal tile. Areas where pure metal is visible, such as areas cutting must be treated with a protective paint of the appropriate color. - it should be offered when buying a metal tile.

Video: detailed video tutorial on installation metal-tiled roofing

Among the roofing materials construction market most often, buyers give their preference to metal tiles - a beautiful, practical and affordable material. The metal tile is made of sheets of copper, aluminum or steel, which are profiled using cold pressure. So the material takes a shape similar to the shape of ceramic tiles, without losing its quality.

The installation of such a roof does not require special knowledge, but it is still worth familiarizing yourself with the technology of the process, so in this article we will tell you how to properly cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands.

Types of metal tiles

If you decide to cover the roof with tiles, then first you should pay attention to the following characteristics:

1. Wave height and steel thickness. The higher these parameters, the stronger the metal tile will be, however, the price for it will also increase;
2. Profile type is a matter of taste. In total there are 3 types: symmetrical, asymmetrical and trapezoidal;
3. Protective covering. Any metal tile is covered with a special anti-corrosion layer of zinc with impurities, such as aluminum. The presence of this layer is extremely important, because the metal of the roof is constantly in an unfavorable environment.

Separately, it is worth talking about the decorative layer of metal tiles. This layer is optional, but applied quite often. Its main task is to give a spectacular appearance, but it also serves as an excellent protection against the harmful effects of the environment.

The decorative layer can be made of the following polymeric materials:

• Polyester- an inexpensive and reliable coating that is suitable for regions with any climate, however, it is necessary to work with it very carefully, because. it does not tolerate mechanical influences;
• Plastisol- A more durable PVC coating. It is immune to corrosion, as well as mechanical damage, but is completely unsuitable for hot regions due to intolerance to high temperatures;
• Pural- provides resistance to corrosion and various weather conditions, however, when installing it, you also need to be extremely careful due to the possibility of plastic deformation;
• PVDF- one of the most best options. It withstands all kinds weather, resistant to damage and fading, and also has a long service life.

What you need to know about working with metal tiles

Speaking about how to close the roof with a metal tile, first of all it is worth talking about essential tool. You will need:

• Hammer;
• Screwdriver;
• Marker;
• Roulette;
• Reika-rule;
• Metal scissors.

When planning the construction of a roof, do not forget:

1. The angle of the roof slope must be at least 14 degrees;
2. You should not cut the metal tile with a grinder, because. high temperatures contribute to the destruction of the protective layer. It is also necessary to know correctly, so as not to damage it;
3. If you are planning to roof complex shape, purchase material with a large margin, because. when cutting, there will be a lot of unnecessary scraps;
4. Purchase a reliable paint, which must be carefully painted over the places where the metal tiles are cut in order to protect it from corrosion;
5. Roof with metal tiles needs additional sound insulation;
6. When laying a metal tile, walk on it in soft shoes, trying to step on the concave part of the wave.

Warming and waterproofing

Finishing the roof of a house with metal tiles always begins with the provision of waterproofing, which will protect the roofing sheets from condensation, and also levels out possible leakage.

First of all, you need to take care of the vapor barrier. It is laid out as follows:

1. A piece of the required length is cut off, taking into account overhangs of 20 mm towards the cornice;
2. Also keep a slight sag of 1.5-2 cm between the rafters;
3. Join rows with an overlap of 15 cm and securely glue them with tape;
4. A stapler is best for attaching the vapor barrier, but you can also use small nails.

If you decide to insulate the roof, lay sheets mineral wool between the rafters.

Next, you need to put waterproofing material. It will protect the insulation, as well as the wooden vault of the roof from moisture. Attach the waterproofing to the outside of the rafters, like a vapor barrier. Also, do not forget to leave a gap between the tiles, waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier for better ventilation.

Lathing installation

If we cover the roof with a metal tile with our own hands, then we should mess around with the crate ourselves. This stage is very complicated and requires extreme concentration, but with proper calculations, problems should not arise.

To begin with, it is worth deciding on the material from which the crate will be assembled. Most often, a 50 by 50 mm timber or a 100 by 25 mm board made of coniferous wood is used for its assembly. Before use, it is necessary to dry the timber thoroughly, and also treat it with moisture-proof impregnation.

We collect the crate:

1. Pick up a board that will be 15 mm thicker than the rest;
2. Fasten the selected board to the eaves;
3. The second board should be standard sizes, however, it must be fixed 50 mm closer than all subsequent ones;
4. The rest of the boards are fastened at a distance equal to the transverse profile of the tiles;
5. At the ridge and in the valleys, it is recommended to make a continuous crate to create additional strength;
6. The end plank should be fastened to the height of the tile wave above the general level of the crate.

Now you can cover the roof with metal tiles, however, in order to detect errors in a timely manner, we recommend checking the geometry of the slope, as well as comparing the size of the diagonals.

Installation of metal tiles - how to cover the roof with your own hands

The beginning of the assembly depends on the type of roof:

• If you are covering a gable roof, start laying sheets from any end;
• With a hipped roof, installation starts from the highest point and leads in two directions.

When laying the sheet, leave an offset of 40 mm along the eaves, temporarily fix it with one screw with a rubber insert behind upper part.

If you stack sheets from right to left, then fasten the next sheet with an overlap on the previous one, however, if the laying of sheets goes from left to right, then the next sheet must be wound under the wave of the previous one. Fasten the stacked sheets together, but do not screw them to the crate, so that later you have the opportunity to trim them.

The organization of valleys requires special attention:

1. As mentioned above, a solid crate is required under the valleys, so think it over in advance;
2. Fasten a steel sheet to a solid crate;
3. Cut the metal tile so that two adjacent sheets form an even angle;
4. Close the resulting corner decorative element, fixing it with self-tapping screws into the upper part of the tile wave.

If you have laid the tiles correctly, then a gap will remain at the junction of the upper sheets, into which it is necessary to lay the sealant and fix the roof ridge to the edges.

As you can see, it is quite simple to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, it is only important to understand the technology and approach the matter with maximum concentration.

Each of us has seen a metal tile more than once. Every year, more than one hundred square meters of this roofing material is mounted on various roofs. In view of the widespread use of metal tiles, I would like to say a few words about the correct choice of material, its proper storage, as well as how to cover the roof with metal tiles and install all the additional elements that come with it.

Advantages of metal tiles

For the first time this roofing material appeared on sale in Finland in the second half of the last century and since then it has been successfully leading among all coatings of this kind. Today, metal tiles are made from aluzinc steel, which has a protective polymer coating that protects the metal from corrosion and is painted in different colors.

In the manufacture of this material, several coatings are used, which differ in their properties, cost and thickness. Galvanized profiled sheets have a more complex internal structure than it initially seems: usually a cold-rolled hot-dip galvanized sheet is used for the base, which has a thickness of 0.4-0.5 millimeters.

The metal tile has a list of key qualities that determined its popularity: light weight, ease of installation, long term useful life, increased wear resistance and reasonable price. The material does not burn, deform or melt. Sometimes consumers sin for increased noise during strong winds or rain, but this is observed when the roof, sound insulation and drainage are not properly installed.

This roofing material has a stylish appearance, often imitating traditional ceramic tiles, but has far surpassed the clay counterpart in ergonomic qualities. Use a metal tile for carrying out reconstruction of buildings or new construction. In any case, it is able to serve 50 years, or even more, without losing its original appearance during the entire period of operation.

The process of laying sheets of metal tiles refers to such work, during which it is necessary to strictly adhere to the requirements specified by the manufacturer in the instructions. Deviation from these recommendations can lead to a significant reduction in the service life of the material, and manufacturers in such cases refuse liability due to breach of warranty.

Calculation of sheets of metal

To buy right amount sheets of metal tiles, first pay attention to any residential building in which such a roof is equipped. “Waves” are placed across the roof slope, and “rows” are located along the roof slope. The step of a metal tile is the distance between the rows. And the sheet, which consists of 6 "waves" and has a step of 350 millimeters, is called a "module". One-, three-, six- and ten-module stock sheets are on sale.

But you can also order sheets according to your own measured sizes. Of course, the prices for special orders will be higher. However, when covering a complex roof with sheets of standard sizes, a lot of waste is obtained, which also affects the price of covering the roof with metal tiles. But the possibility of individual cutting of roofing material for each customer allows you to reduce this waste much. Therefore, you need to choose warehouse sheets or cut them based on a specific option.

The metal tile sheet has 2 widths: general and useful. As for the length of the sheets produced, the minimum length is 450 millimeters, and the maximum reaches 7 meters. The lower 50 millimeters of the sheet from the cut line to the crest of the wave is called the "lower cut", the size of which is the same for cut and stock sheets. The "upper cut" from the crest of the wave to the top edge is 50 millimeters for standard sheets of metal tiles and up to 300 millimeters for sheets on special order.

To calculate the number of rows of sheets horizontally, you need to divide the maximum length of the slope along the ridge or cornice by the useful width of the sheet. Round the resulting number up. You can calculate the length of the sheets in the stacked row by summing up several values.

The first of them is the length of the slope, measured from the eaves to the ridge, that is, from the bottom to the top of the slope. The second is the length of the cornice overhang of 0.05 meters, which is calculated to prevent moisture from entering under the roofing sheets. The third is the length of the vertical overlap of sheets of 0.15 meters. If there are two or more sheets in a row, then each subsequent sheet will be superimposed on the bottom one, interlocking with each other in the place of the “lock” and forming a strong, tight and even connection.

When choosing sheets of metal tiles, remember that it is not recommended to take sheets that have a length of more than 4-4.5 meters, because it is costly and rather laborious, inconvenience arises when loading, unloading and lifting material onto the roof, because a long sheet can be scratched, bent and deform. When using very long sheets of metal tiles, it is better to cut them into pieces that need to be laid with an overlap of 150 millimeters.

Metal tiles, according to building codes, should be stored in an unheated room where protection from weather factors - rain and direct sunlight is maintained. Profiles that have factory packaging must be laid on a flat area using bars as a stand, which have a thickness of 20 centimeters, in increments of 50 centimeters. If you plan to store the material for longer than 1 month, unpack the metal tile and stack it in stacks up to 70 centimeters high.

The construction of the truss system

The calculation of the elements of the truss system must be carried out at the design stage of the roof. It is necessary to take into account the features of the shape of the roof, wind and snow loads for the region. With errors in the calculation of the pitch and cross section of the rafters, the roof may sag over time, and cracks also appear. The step of the rafters under the metal tile should be 600-900 millimeters. If this indicator is increased, then it is recommended to use cross-section boards of large section (crate). As a rule, it is customary to use rafters with a section of 100 or 150 by 50 millimeters.

If you plan to insulate the roof, it is advisable to equip additional horizontal ventilation between the rafters. Namely, in the side part of the rafters, drill holes near the upper part of the roof that have a diameter of 2-2.5 centimeters, in increments of 30 centimeters. After that, it is necessary to treat wood materials with fire-fighting and antiseptic impregnations.

Before you cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, it is recommended to check the length of all slopes diagonally, since the roof must have a regular rectangular shape. Then check the eaves, ridge, plane and slope fractures for horizontality. In the presence of errors, it is necessary to level the surface.

When choosing a metal tile as a roof covering, the minimum angle of inclination of the roof should reach 14 degrees, which ensures an acceptable flow of water, the roof itself will not accumulate moisture and leak in the future. Be sure to fit the eaves board into the slots cut into the rafter legs to add more rigidity to the gutter hooks.

In many instructions for installing sheets of metal, it is also recommended to install a frontal bar. The frontal board is attached to the end of the rafters for additional protection. Sheathing of eaves overhangs is performed using corrugated board, siding or spotlights, having previously made a special crate. If non-perforated soffits are used as a backing, ventilation gaps must be left to ensure free air flow into the space under the roof.

Hooks for gutters are installed directly in front of the fastening of the metal tile. It is best to use long hooks that provide greater structural strength. Mount the gutter holders on the cornice strip, sawing out the grooves for the "leg" of the hook. Fasten the hooks with self-tapping screws. The pitch of the gutter holders usually matches the pitch of the rafters. For a mounted roof made of metal, it is customary to use short hooks.

Arrangement of waterproofing and ventilation

Any roofing pie is contraindicated for moisture and its minimal ingress into the under-roof space, as it leads to rotting and cracking of the rafter system and corrosion of metal tile sheets. It will be possible to avoid such negative factors if you choose a heater of sufficient thickness for the roof, protect it from the effects of condensate by waterproofing film and from moisture by means of a vapor barrier, as well as arrange natural ventilation of the space.

For organization proper ventilation roofs made of metal tiles, you need to calculate the area of ​​​​ventilation gaps, according to the ratio of the total space of gaps for ventilation to the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof 1 to 100. Remember that ventilation gaps must be placed between the waterproofing and the roof, heat and waterproofing for through air flow, at the ridge and in the filing eaves for air flow.

For waterproofing roofs made of metal, it is customary to use waterproofing and anti-condensation films, as well as superdiffusion membranes. Categorically it is not necessary to lay bituminous waterproofing under a metal-tiled roof! The waterproofing material is laid in such a way that air flows from the eaves without obstacles under the roof ridge and out through the ventilation holes that are installed in the highest place.

A waterproofing layer is laid in a horizontal direction between the ridge and the eaves with an overlap of 15 centimeters, on top of the truss system. You should start from the cornices. Lay the material with a slight sag between the legs of the rafters of 20-25 millimeters to avoid tearing the film in the cold season. fasteners this material can be carried out using wooden slats installed along the roof trusses. Lay the vapor barrier film overlapped under the insulation, connecting its pieces with adhesive tape.

The construction of the crate under the metal tile

The metal tile requires the creation of a crate. For this, bars are used that have a cross section of 5 by 5 centimeters, and boards measuring 3.2 by 10 centimeters. First of all, nail falling bars from the ridge to the eaves to the rafters along the waterproofing film. Lathing boards are attached to them in the horizontal direction. The first of them from the eaves should be 1-1.5 centimeters thicker than the rest - 5 by 10 centimeters.

The boards must be fastened in compliance with such distances: from the beginning of the first board to the middle of the next one should be 28 centimeters, between the middle of the remaining boards - 35 centimeters. It is recommended to check the step of the crate every 5 rows from the first board. Self-laying metal roofing is no easy task. And if you make a mistake with the horizontality of the cornice board, you will have to interrupt the entire crate again.

Near the roof windows, chimney channels and in the valleys, it is necessary to carry out a continuous crate, nailing two additional abutment strips measuring 150 by 25 millimeters over 300 millimeters to the sides of the ridge plank. If the corner of the valley is almost flat, it is worth laying an additional layer waterproofing material. The valley is fastened with self-tapping screws to the crate in increments of 300 millimeters. The lower edge of the valley should be laid on top of the cornice strip. The overlap should be at least 100 millimeters at the horizontal junction of the valleys.

In the chimney, it is necessary to make a strobe (it is strictly forbidden to strobe into the seams of the masonry) with a depth of at least 15 millimeters and carry out waterproofing on the pipe by 50 millimeters, securing the cut with adhesive tape. External junction strips will be superimposed on the pipe, turning the upper part into a strobe. This place must be sealed with a high-quality heat-resistant sealant. Also at this stage, it is necessary to provide places for arranging passage elements of the roof - ventilation and antenna outlets.

Fastening sheets of metal

So we come to the main question, how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles. Regardless of the fact that the metal tile is a durable material, when working with it, you should follow some rules. The process of laying metal tiles begins on the ground, you need to unpack and lay out the sheets in piles intended for each slope. Do not handle sheets with bare hands, wear protective gloves.

The technology of arranging a roof made of metal tiles allows cutting sheets for complex areas at the facility. However, you can not cut the sheets with a grinder, as the protective polymer layer may be damaged. Use electric nibblers or metal shears for cutting. Before cutting, practice on a separate piece, as cutting a metal tile is more difficult than an ordinary steel sheet.

When lifting metal tiles onto the roof, it is important not to scratch it. Take the sheet of material when moving over the edge of the stamping line and lift it onto the roof using the board guides. Long sheets are not recommended to be lifted by the edges, because the sheet may bend. Also, do not load multiple sheets at the same time. Remember that to move on the sheets you need to choose shoes with soft soles. Do not step on the crest of the wave, but only on your toes. Place your foot parallel to the slope.

The stacking direction is not tied to anything, so it can be done from left to right or right to left. When choosing the installation of a metal tile from left to right, you will have to lift the edge of the sheet, and place the edge of the next one under it. As a result, the outermost sheet will rest on the previous one, or rather, on its transverse wave, which prevents sheets from slipping. On gable roofs, the installation of sheets starts from the end, and on hip roofs, they are laid from the hip. Align the sheets with respect to the cornices. If you start laying the coating with long sheets, it will be much easier to align them.

When laying the material in one row, the first sheet is placed on the crate, temporarily attached with one self-tapping screw. Then lay the next sheet, aligning with the first, and fasten the sheets together. Make sure that all sheets fit snugly and correctly from a geometric position to each other. Carry out the installation of metal tiles, moving from the eaves to the ridge. After that, attach all the sheets to the crate, and the last sheet in the row is attached to the crate only after leveling the next block.

When laying sheets of metal tiles from right to left in several rows, lay the first sheet, aligning it along the end and cornice, then lay the second sheet on top of the first, temporarily fix it with one screw in the center of the sheet at the ridge, align the sheets and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. Then you need to lay the third sheet on the left side of the first, fasten the sheets together and lay the fourth sheet over the third. Align the entire block along the end and cornice, and then finally attach the sheets of metal to the crate.

When laying material on a triangular slope, it is necessary to mark the center of the slope before starting installation and draw an axis through this center. Then the same axis must be marked on the sheet and the features of the axes drawn on the sheet and the slope should be combined. Fasten the sheet to the ridge with one self-tapping screw. On both sides of it, continue installation according to the principles that were described in the previous versions.

Sheets of metal tiles are attached to each other, to cornices, ends and crates. First, three or four sheets are fastened together at the joints, then they are fixed in place with one screw, aligned strictly along the cornice, and only then the sheets are finally fixed to the crate. Sheets of roofing material are attached to the crate with two self-tapping screws - near the ridge and at the eaves. Continue the installation of the coating in the same way. Brush off the drilling chips with a soft brush after the installation of the metal tile and tint the surface if necessary.

End and ridge bar

To protect the metal tile from the lifting force of the wind and the process of loosening its fastening, an end plate is required. It also acts as a protective element for the structure from moisture. The end bar is installed towards the ridge from the eaves, the excess is cut off at the ridge. Attach this bar to the end board with self-tapping screws every 500-600 millimeters

Due to the difference in heights, the end plate is tightly pressed against the sheets of metal tiles, which eliminates rattling and noise during gusts of wind. The overlap of the end strips should reach up to 100 millimeters. A layer of waterproofing must be laid on top of the end strip, which will cover the edge of the waterproofing material. Also, such a bar should block the upper crest of the wave, to protect the metal tile from water ingress.

For proper ventilation of the space under the roof, air must pass freely to the ridge from the eaves and exit through the holes in the ridge seal to the outside. Lay waterproofing on a continuous crate so that it overlaps the bottom layer of waterproofing material along the edges by at least 150 millimeters.

The ridge is attached to the crate using ridge screws into the upper crest of the wave of the metal tile on both sides. The sealant is attached to the ridge before the latter is installed on the roof, having previously removed the protective film from it.

Upper valley and junction strips

The upper end plank is needed to remove moisture from the inner corner of the roof, located at the junction of two slopes. They fix the valley with self-tapping screws so that they do not pass through and do not damage the waterproofing. Remember that a self-expanding sealant must be laid between the sheets of shingles and the upper valley.

Between the planks of the valley, it is also necessary to leave ventilation gaps, about 20 millimeters in size, and to make an overlap of 200 millimeters at the joints when laying the planks. The corner sheet of the valley must overlap the sheet of roofing by at least 250 millimeters.

Special strips must be installed on the breaks of the roof and when the roofing adjoins the wall. Roof fractures are reverse and direct. In places of fractures, continuous waterproofing is recommended. The boards of the crate with a direct fracture of the slope to each other should be as close as possible. A metal tile sheet covering the breaks in the slopes should protrude slightly above the break in the roof and thus close it.

In the case of a reverse fracture of the roof slope, you can use the junction with the wall as a mating element, placing it on the lower slope with the rolling side. The adjunction of the roof to the wall is arranged according to the same principle as the procedure for adjoining the pipe. The waterproofing is removed and lifted onto the wall, at least 50 millimeters to the strobe. Depending on the junction - to the end or side of the wall, a universal or profile seal is used.

Mounting gutters and snow retainers

The installation of long hooks is carried out on a cornice board or rafters before blocking old roof metal tile. For better water flow, the slope of the gutter should be at least 5 millimeters per running meter. It is customary to install hooks with a vertical offset. To insert the chute into the hook, you need to bring its spout into the chute in such a way that the spout is inside the curl.

Then you should fix the other edge of the gutter with a cap plate clamp. The outer edge of the gutter must be 6 mm lower than the inner edge in order to prevent water from entering the facade during heavy rain. The continuation of the edge of the metal tile should hang over the gutter by 50 millimeters. The connection of the gutter with the corner of another gutter or with the next gutter is made end-to-end using a special connector.

The gutter connector is equipped with a special rubber gasket that provides a hermetic connection of two gutters, as well as compensating for thermal expansion. downpipe should be of such a length that the drain elbow is located at a distance of about 200 millimeters from the ground or a moisture-resistant base, since water splashes if it is too high. To organize the withdrawal of water, it is necessary to equip a storm sewer.

It is imperative to install snow guards on a roof made of metal, because thanks to these products, snow will not fall on your head and will not scratch the roofing material when it comes off. Snow holders are attached under the second transverse step of the metal tile parallel to the eaves. They are installed under the crest of the wave in the bars that were previously attached. The lower edge of the snow retainer is attached from above on every second wave. With long slopes, it is recommended to install snow retainers in several rows.

Lightning rod and roof grounding

To install a lightning rod and a weather vane, prepare a metal bracket, a compass, metal screws, as well as wrench. Weathercocks can be mounted on a ridge, roof end or spire. For security metal roof needs to be grounded. This is done in order to protect the roofing material from damage and protect the inhabitants of the house when lightning strikes the roof. Such a system consists of a down conductor, a ground electrode and a lightning rod.

The lightning rod is installed at the highest point of the roof using wooden props. The down conductor is attached to the lightning rod and lowered along the crate under the sheets of tiles. It is welded to the lightning rod, and where it comes into contact with the sheets of metal tiles, the protective coating or varnish layer is removed. For greater contact between the points, it is worth branching such a wire into several sheets so that the lightning can quickly find the path of minimum resistance.

Then conduct a down conductor along the wall of a residential building and connect it to the ground electrode. It is recommended to carry out the down conductor along the wall, which is opposite to the entrance. To equip the grounding of the roof, you need to dig a hole 1.5 meters deep, fill it with a layer of sand 10 centimeters, fill it with water, lower the ground electrode there, fill the hole with soil and pour water over it.

Now you have learned how much it costs to cover the roof with metal tiles, and how to do it correctly. But that's not all! Additional elements are included with each ventilation or antenna outlet. To begin with, you should attach a template of a passage element or a ventilation outlet to the metal roof and circle it around the contour. Then you need to cut a hole along the resulting line. Outputs and passage elements are fixed to metal profile special screws.

Not everyone knows how to cover the roof with a metal tile with their own hands and is it even possible to independently install the roof with such a coating? Of course yes!

And in this article we will describe the whole process in detail, provide video instructions in order to tell in as much detail as possible about all the intricacies of this work.

Roofing with metal tiles is a high-quality, inexpensive and popular solution for roofing.

Currently, it is the most inexpensive, affordable, suitable way for both high-end and middle-class homes.

The advantages of this building material and its reliability are known not only in our country, but also abroad.

The manufacturing technology of metal tiles is used in almost all countries of the world, because it is suitable for any climatic conditions.

And in order for the durability of the roof to become the result of your work, you simply cannot do without understanding the rules.

We will tell you how to cover the roof with metal tiles, how to make the coating extremely protective from external adverse effects, safe and attractive.

It is important to consider that roofing with metal tiles can only be done on pitched roofs of houses with a simple geometry and a slope of at least 14 degrees.

When drawing parallels with other roofing options, metal tiles have a number of distinct advantages:

• increased rigidity;
• lasts a long time at any humidity;
• light weight;
• ease of care;
• not afraid of both high temperatures and low.

What should be taken into account when working?

Covering with metal tiles requires strict adherence to the rules.

Be sure to carry out all stages of work carefully, according to technology, in order to avoid deformation, damage and damage to the roofing material. Otherwise, the service life of the coating may be reduced.

If all technical aspects are observed during the work, then the roof will serve for a long time, reliably and will not cause any trouble for a long time. It can be washed and does not require special care.

Some errors in the work phase can only be diagnosed by dismantling the roofing elements. Dismantling also does not require much effort.

In the event of a demolition of the house, you can easily dismantle the roofing elements for subsequent use.

The result of incorrect installation of a roof with a metal tile may not appear immediately. Sometimes unpleasant results are discovered only when a complete replacement of the roofing of the house is already necessary.

For example, carefully monitor the laying of heat-insulating sheets, they must be laid evenly, the joints between them must be carefully glued, and the points of contact with wall structures must be carefully insulated.

It is because of this that it is necessary to learn how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles.

Assembly tool kit

To install the roof, you will need the following tools:

• measuring tape;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• pencil;
• hammer;
• screwdriver

When laying roofing on the roof of a house, it is important to use non-abrasive cutting tools: a screwdriver or an electric drill with speed control, purchase a power saw with carbide teeth or other equipment for cutting metal with a polymer sheath.

Sheets of metal tiles are fixed thanks to special roofing self-tapping screws with a rubber washer.

If scratches appear, they should be treated with paint of the same color as your metal tile coating.

When working with metal tiles, the use of a grinder should be excluded, high temperature and heating destroy the protective shell, which leads to rust and damage to the appearance.

Also, sawdust left over from cutting can cause harm, they must be swept away at the end of work.

Preparation for installation work

First you need to dismantle the old, sloping roof for an accurate assessment and measurements.

If the slope length exceeds 7 meters, then the sheets are divided into 2 parts. In this case, they are overlapped by 15 centimeters.

Steam and heat insulation, ventilation

Metal roof insulation is one of the milestones work. Mistakes at this stage can lead to unpleasant consequences.

As a result of the temperature difference, condensate accumulates on the wrong side of the sheets, an increase in the temperature in the house causes evaporation.

These reasons lead to moistening of the insulation layer, reducing its useful properties.

The roof will freeze, ice will form, the crate of the structure, with regular dampness, quickly rots, becomes unusable.

To avoid such serious consequences, it is necessary to apply a thick layer of insulation, a membrane for waterproofing, which will serve protective layer insulation from getting wet and provide ventilation.

Even a small amount of liquid formed under the roof can cause many problems.

To exclude the formation of moisture accumulation, a special design is created, called a roofing pie. It is mounted in such a way that the insulation does not get wet.

How to make a roofing cake yourself?

Roofing pie includes the following elements:

1. vapor barrier membrane - retains moisture;
2. warming material;
3. waterproofing membrane - prevents the penetration of moisture into the insulation;
4. ventilation gap - at least 5 centimeters for intensive passage of air flows;
5. metal tile.

Below is a video of laying a roofing pie.

Before the first stage of covering the roof with metal tiles, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer coated with an absorbent composition. The adsorbent completely absorbs moisture at the slightest leaks.

The waterproofing membrane is placed on the rafters above the room. The sag should not be more than 2 centimeters.

The first layer should hang from the edge of the eaves by 2 centimeters, the next sheets should be laid with an overlap of 15 centimeters. Fastening is done with construction stapler or galvanized nails.

Simultaneous thermal insulation

Video of laying the waterproofing layer is provided above.

Installation of the frame of the crate

The crate is Basic structure on which sheets of metal are laid. To carry out the crate, bars 2-3 centimeters thick and about 10 centimeters wide are used.

The photo below shows an example of such a crate.

Before installation, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic.

First, bars are nailed vertically to the rafters on the waterproofing layer, after which the sheathing boards are horizontally attached to them.

For the crate, it is necessary to choose the bars that are well dried, without visible traces of mold and the presence of a bark beetle.

Video instructions for installing the crate.

Roofing with metal tiles

To get started, check out the photo of the laying scheme.

First, we install the eaves bar - it is attached to the extreme beam of the crate. The overlap of the cornice strips can be about 10 centimeters.

Then you can proceed to the process of mounting sheets of metal.

Before placing the first sheet of roofing, the type of roof to be laid must be taken into account:

1. A tent-type roof is covered from above and down;
2. The gable roof is covered from the end of the slope.

How to install the eaves bar can be seen in the video below.

Rules for performing work on the installation of metal tiles

The first sheet of metal tiles is laid flush along the edge of the roof, and fixed to the crate with one self-tapping screw.

The second sheet is overlapped on the first or placed under it.

The sheets are connected at the overlapping point on the outer side of the wave of the metal tile with a self-tapping screw, without being attached to the crate, so that the sheets can be rotated relative to the fastening and aligned.

The third sheet is laid similarly to the second, leveled flush with the roofing cornice and finally fixed to the crate.

The number of self-tapping screws per square meter of roofing should be at least 6-8 pieces.

The main mistakes in the installation of roofing:

• Do not use abrasives to cut roof panels. This will lead to destruction and damage to the appearance, shortening the service life;
• The use of self-tapping screws without rubber gaskets will lead to corrosion foci;
• Walking on a metal tile is allowed only in soft non-slip shoes, you can step into the deepening of the wave in those places where the crate is located;
• It is possible to fix the sheets with self-tapping screws only in the deepening of the wave, for reliable fastening;
• Do not fasten the first sheet to the crate prematurely - this will create problems when aligning subsequent sheets, which will lead to cracks and distortions;
• Do not forget to remove the protective film from the metal tile, otherwise it will boil in the sun and it will be impossible to remove it.