How to adjust your ski bindings. Ski bindings: drop quilt force setting

Engineering systems 11.10.2019

Engineering systems

Instruction

Install by yourself mounts, of course, you can, but you will spend at least an hour and a half on it, and if you have never mounts not installed, not yet a fact that qualitatively. Pay special attention when marking the ski: correct marking is 90% successful during installation.

Sources:

how to mount ski bindings

Mounts skis lose any meaning in terms of reliability and safety if you neglect the implementation of simple but mandatory steps to adjust them. According to statistics, every third skier does not comply with such standards.

Instruction

If you do not have clear instructions for adjusting the bindings, then check out the table below, according to which, in accordance with your weight, gender and experience, choose your binding adjustment for yourself:

If you have a fairly high growth, then increase the adjustment indicator by half a division, but if your height is below average, then reduce the indicator by half a division.

Check the mount adjustment settings. To do this, follow the next steps. Put both skis on your feet and spread them slightly wider than your shoulders. Then put one of the skis on the inside edge. And now try, with the help of a twisting force in the plane of the ski, to move the bent leg inward and thereby the head of the mount. Perform the movement slowly with highly tense leg muscles. Do this test several times at a low setting, gradually increasing the setting. Thus, select your limit value for adjustment (it can be half a division less).

Check the binding heel action. Why drop sharply forward and down. In order not to fall, rest on the sticks set forward. This test can be a bit painful and therefore cannot be said to be suitable for anyone. If you feel pain, then by all means stop doing it and try the method described in paragraph 4.

The main parts of ski bindings

All ski bindings consist of a front head and a back heel. Both parts have DIN actuation force adjustment mechanisms with digital scales.

The actuation force value (what a difficult set of three words to perceive!) is a number on the binding scale corresponding to a certain load at which the foot (boot) is released from the binding. That is, the mount works. The higher this value, the more strength must be applied in order for the mount to work.

All bindings are equipped with ski stops - ski brakes, thanks to which the unfastened ski (usually) does not go far. The ski stops hit the slope and she stops.

Many models are equipped with a platform with “rails”, along which (using a special mechanism) both parts of the mount move to adjust to the size of the boot.

This is the general picture, now let's look at the details.

How ski bindings work

The front head presses the toe of the boot against the front of the ski. When the load on the leg becomes traumatic, the binding releases the boot. If the loads are not dangerous, then the mount softens them, allowing the boot to deviate from the central position.

Front head operation

See how the front head works:

In addition to moving black "cheeks", the video shows the so-called anti-friction plate, which shifts to the left / right when side loads occur on the legs. About her we will talk below.

In the picture below, the arrows show the directions of loads on the legs, under which the bindings work:

The picture shows three arrows, but one more is missing - up. Below, on the example of the Tyrlia bindings, the operation of the front head of modern bindings is shown - it moves not only in the horizontal plane, but also vertically, which allows you to free your legs when falling back.

The work of the back of the mounts

The back (heel) fixes the boot from behind, otherwise it performs the same functions as the front.

If the mount worked, there is no need to worry, you immediately fasten the skis back, having previously caught your breath and made sure that all parts of the body are intact. Just drop the heel down if it is still buttoned (the front head has worked) and snap the boot back in.

On the track, you can often see beginners trying to get the boot into the binding with the heel up to no avail. This is their first time and no one has explained to them what needs to be done. If you see the poor fellows, don't drive past, because now you know the answer. You will be very grateful.

The picture shows that when falling, the backs on the skis remained in the upper position, they will need to be lowered.

Other technologies in mounts

In addition to fixing the boot and precise operation, the bindings must have a dosed elasticity. That is, with non-hazardous loads, allow the boot to move slightly relative to the ski to the left / right, each time returning it to its original position (remember the video above?).

But that's not all.

A boot caught in the bindings can prevent the middle zone of the ski from flexing exactly as the designers intended. Therefore, tricky systems are used in the bindings, which ensure the free deflection of the ski.

But the subtleties do not end there.

The bindings use mechanisms that not only allow the ski under the boot to flex freely, but also compensate for the inevitable convergence of the heel and front head with a strong deflection. We want to say that the ski-binding-boot bundle is a “living” mechanism, but a tightly knocked together and screwed construction.

Here's what we're talking about:

Video: Smart bindings know that this is the normal operation of the ski and the boots don't shoot.

Attachment segmentation

If so, then every skier will want to have reliable, accurate, sophisticated and durable bindings. But it will be expensive. However, the designers found a solution: not all of us need all the functions in full at once.

Athletes have the same requirements, active skiers have others, novice girls have third, and children have fourth. Different loads, terms of Use, physical form skiers, downhill speed, and finally weight.

Accordingly, each brand produces a series of bindings for skiers of various levels and for different options skating. Honestly assess your level of skiing and tell the seller - he will select the bindings you need.

Ski binding manufacturers

Main manufacturers ski bindings are:

Vist (rare)

You also need to know that the mounts under the brands Elan, Head and Fischer are produced by the mentioned Tyrolia. And under the brands Blizzard, K2, Nordica and Volkl - Marker.

Regardless of the brand, all industry-leading fasteners provide reliable actuation. And to simplify the choice, the vast majority of skis are still factory equipped with the most suitable mounts and are sold in kits.

If skis and bindings are sold separately, manufacturers often indicate in catalogs (rather than store price lists) which binding models will work best with a particular ski model.

To be able to adjust the bindings according to the length of the soles of your boots, the bindings are mounted on special base platforms with adjustment systems.

Actuation force scale DIN

If you need to buy mounts separately or choose from the options offered, main parameter – actuation force (number on the scale), which is measured in DIN units.

The set force is visible on the scales located on the front heads and heels of the bindings. Usually the desired value is selected with a screwdriver, but for beginners it is better to do this in a store or ski workshop. And for this you will need at least one boot in which you will ride.

In this picture, the DIN scale is 4–13.

If you are a beginner, then when you see DIN 8-16, 10-18 scales, you should recoil from them, such mounts are for aggressive riders. When it comes time to buy these, you will already know a lot about skiing.

The DIN force you need can be roughly determined by the following method. Divide your weight by ten. For example, your weight is 80 kg, which means the initial number is 8. Subtract about 20% (in our example, 6.5 will remain) and use a screwdriver to set the marks on all four scales to this number.

For beginners and older skiers, you need to reduce the effort by another 10% of the figure obtained - up to 6. If the bindings are unfastened during normal skiing, gradually increase the effort simultaneously on all ¼ scales.

Choose fixtures so that your DIN value is centered on the scale, not close to the edge. That will be right.

And keep in mind: even if your weight exceeds a centner, it is highly not recommended to tighten the fasteners to the number “10” - it is too dangerous. Do not think that you have iron legs and they will withstand any load.

More precisely, you can set the actuation force according to the table below, which also takes into account another important parameter - the length of the sole of the boot.

Remember that ski boots often from different manufacturers. different length soles, even with the same foot size. This means that if during skiing you want to exchange skis with Masha, who also has a size 35, then it is far from a fact that your boots will fit her bindings. In most cases, fasteners need to be adjusted to the new size. Sometimes you may need a screwdriver, but not always:

And if you still exchanged skis, be sure to check the DIN value. It may not be suitable for your riding style and weight - the binding will work and release the boot at the most inopportune moment, and this is a threat of injury. There's no need for a screwdriver here.

Approximate force ranges

For the smallest children - 0.5-2.5 DIN
Children - 0.75-4.5 DIN
Junior - 2-6 (2.5-7) DIN
Simple models - 2.5-9 DIN
Universal models - 3-10 (3.5-11) DIN
For experts and riders - 4-12 (6-14) DIN
For athletes - scale up to 16 DIN and above

How to choose ski bindings

Since not all skiers need the most complex, most powerful, and therefore the most expensive bindings, manufacturers produce several product groups. Each - with a set of mechanisms and technologies that are most suitable for a specific group of riders.

Budget mounts - for beginners

Fairly light budget models are available for those who ride at low and medium speeds. This design saves from injuries during falls, which are typical for beginner skiers: they fall back or sideways, in which case there is a dangerous twisting load on the leg. The boot is released from the front head, moving sideways or sideways-up on a special slippery anti-friction plate.

Bindings for experienced riders

Somewhat more complex and powerful mounts for more experienced skiers. This is the most massive group of fasteners, in more solid construction which already includes mechanisms that are triggered when falling forward - for example, in soft loose snow or on an icy track.

These mounts have less plastic and more metal, which makes them more reliable than the previous category.

Sports mounts

Even harder and more powerful bindings for freeriders and professional athletes. They use a metal frame or in general the entire structure is completely made of metal. More complex anti-friction mechanisms are used in the front head and vibration damping and shock absorption systems.

A separate group of bindings is for children and juniors. Depending on the specialization and weight of the young skier, various materials and designs that, like those of adults, can be simple or complex. Sometimes these are lighter-duty versions of powerful adult models.

Of course, such bindings also differ in size, because children's boots are smaller than adults.

Carefully and thoughtfully read the descriptions of the mounts on the manufacturer's website. Words such as "aggressive", "sports", "racing (cruising)" will mean that this is not a model for beginners.

Ski touring bindings (bonus)

There is a whole class of ski bindings for a ski tour, which is represented by two types of designs. The first is pin bindings, and they have little to do with our review, since they require special boots. If you do not know anything about them, then watch the video - to expand your ski horizons. Personally, I always look at such developments with awe!

But you definitely need to know about the second type - these are frame mounts. If you do not dive into the details (we have already dived deep!), Then these are ordinary mounts (described above), but planted on a special frame (hence the name).

Such mounts are suitable for both skiing up and downhill. These characteristics are important for those who ride off-piste and away from lifts.

This 2 minute video shows the difference between pin and frame mounts:

This is for your information. It is not advisable to buy such mounts at the initial stage of skiing - it is expensive.

Mounting installation

Installing ski bindings is too important a process to do on your own, especially if you are a beginner.

It is better to entrust this to specialists, because we are talking about the health of your feet. Don't forget to bring one boot - you'll need it when installing the bindings.

For your information, every serious store offers free installation of bindings immediately after the purchase of the kit (skis + bindings). Remember this.

Let's float!

We hope we managed to dispel that mystical fog around the ski bindings, in which we started our journey. And now you know how to buy what you really need and fit, and not what negligent sellers in unlucky stores are trying to cram into you.

Remember: most of us do not need powerful and expensive mounts, because for the most part we are amateurs.

Installing and adjusting ski bindings is often done by professionals who know how to do it right. But, if you wish, you can prepare yourself. To do this, you need to approach the process with full responsibility without violating safety rules.

For self installation fasteners require preliminary preparation. Need:

1. Take into account the parameters of the skier for whom it is necessary to prepare equipment;

2. Stock up on the necessary tools:

the skis themselves, bindings for them, as well as skiing shoes;
roulette;
screwdriver;
screwdriver;
pencil or marker;
drill;
screws.

Stages and types of installation

Bindings are the lever through which the leg transmits command to the ski. Their second function is to provide safety for the feet. In situations where there is a high probability of injury, bindings release the leg from the ski.

According to their device, fasteners are a front head and a back heel. Each of these parts allows you to adjust the actuation forces;
The actuation force should be understood as an indicator of the maximum load. As soon as it is reached, the fastener works and opens, freeing the leg. expose this indicator the scale on the mounts helps;
The higher the scale division, the greater the load required for operation;
The presence of brakes on the mounts does not allow the skis to roll far if they are unfastened;
Often manufacturers sell skis with rails on them. This allows both fasteners to be moved and adjusted.

There are two types of mounting fasteners:

With the use of drilling;
Using already built-in special rails or platforms.

Let's talk about each method in more detail.

Using drills

Installing fasteners using drilling is when the fasteners are mounted on screws. The advantages of this type are:

Opportunity to choose any inventory to your liking;
Installation without gaps and backlash. Ski control, thanks to this, is as accurate as possible.

Disadvantages of this type of installation:

The presence of a tool for installation;
Experience and skills in this type of work;
Inability to use skis if the difference in boot length exceeds 2 cm.

Important: When reinstalling fasteners using drilling, the number of screw holes in the ski increases. This reflects badly on the strength of the inventory. Reinstallation in this way is not recommended.

The installation process itself consists of several stages:

The first step is to determine the center of gravity of the ski. To do this, you can install it on a small hill and find the point at which it balances. Mark this place with a marker;
All mechanisms for sale are accompanied by instructions. If it is not there, then it should be noted that for classic skis, the top point of the foot should be at the previously found mark. If the skis are skating, then 8-15 mm closer to the nose;
The location of the pin (top point) is in the place where the hinge is attached;
Then the fastener is shifted so that it is on the longitudinal axis of symmetry of the ski;
Now you can drill the front of the fastener onto the center screw. If there are guides, then it is necessary to center with them.

If not, then after that a boot is inserted into the installed element and also installed in the center. This will help determine the correct position of the heel. Now the boot can be removed and made required holes for other fasteners;

When a hard mount is used, the heel of the boot should cover the heel by 10–15 mm. System bindings (with rails) require an installation where the boot is completely on the rail.

Use of already built-in special rails or platforms

Installing fixtures using built-in rails or platforms greatly simplifies the entire process and has the following advantages:

The most simple installation and adjustment of ski bindings, without resorting to the help of specialists and without using a tool;
Possibility self adjustment ski bindings for boots of a different size or manufacturer;
The ability to shift the center of the boot.

The disadvantages include:

Mounting options are limited (because it's already integrated);
All such mounts give a small gap over time, which affects the accuracy of ski control;
An increase in the weight of the sports equipment as a whole. This is a hindrance in the performance of some elements, especially for experienced skiers.

Fixture setup rules

After installing the fasteners, they need to be adjusted. This is done for comfort and safety. Properly performed adjustment of ski bindings allows you to:

Take into account the parameters of the skier: weight, leg size;
Confidently hold and maneuver while riding;
Take into account the load that falls on the legs, and ensure their safety.

If the skis are bought with bindings installed on them, then the seller himself often makes the adjustment. Some manufacturers do not allow self-adjustment. This is prerequisite for the validity of the warranty on their products.

Under regulation should be understood correct location front head and back heel for the skier. It is important to take into account:

The experience and skills of the rider, as well as his physical condition;
Driving style (calm or aggressive);
The condition and difficulty of the ski run.

Skier parameters and corresponding actuation force on the scale on the bindings:

Weight, kg	Height / cm	Shoe sole size/ mm
Weight, kg	Height / cm	255 or less	250-270	271-290	291-310	311-330	331 and more
10-13		0,75	0,75
14-17		1	1	0,75
18-21		1,5	1,25	1
22-25		1,75	1,5	1,5	1,25
26-30		2,25	2	1,75	1,5	1,5
31-35		2,75	2,5	2,25	2	1,75	1,75
36-41		3,5	3	2,75	2,5	2,25	2
42-48	148 and less		3,5	3	3	2,75	2,5
49-57	149-157		4,5	4	3,5	3,5	3
58-66	158-166		5,5	5	4,5	4	3,5
67-78	167-178		6,5	6	5,5	5	4,5
79-94	179-194		7,5	7	6,5	6	5,5
95 and over	195 and over			8,5	8	7	6,5
				10	9,5	8,5	8
				11,5	11	10	9,5

In this table, you need to find your indicators. When they are in different rows, you must select the one that is located above.

Then the desired column is determined by the corresponding length of the sole. The cell at the junction will determine the appropriate actuation force. This method is suitable for beginners or for skiers with a cautious riding style.

If the skier feels confident and has certain skills, then the indicator from the line below should be used.
In the case when aggressive driving on difficult tracks is practiced, the figure 2 lines lower will be correct.

When working with fasteners, there are some points to consider:

Don't over-adjust the fasteners. This increases the chance of injury;
Too low a setting will also not allow you to enjoy the ride. Skis will jump off at any, even harmless, fall. This is inconvenient even for a beginner, especially for a professional;
Please note that the length of the sole of the boot may vary depending on the manufacturer. This means that skiers with the same foot size may not necessarily use the same skis with an adjusted binding.

We also invite you to watch a video on how to install ski bindings at home without the use of special tools and devices:

Also interesting

Any business can be done in three ways: CORRECT, WRONG and HOW it is done in the Army ... ( folk wisdom)

Philosopher Charles Louis Montesquieu early XVII century once remarked: "Nature has wisely taken care to make human stupidity transient, but books perpetuate it."

I don't know what he would say about the Internet. Unfortunately, I am not Charles Louis or Erasmus of Rotterdam. I don’t intend to write “Eulogy of Stupidity” ...

I can state: the Internet, at least, replicates Stupidity in such a volume that in the old days it was not even a dream.
But stupid things are different. There are harmless, as Zhvanetsky used to say, - "No harm, no good." For example, how long should skis be? More precisely, where should they reach - to the chin, to the bridge of the nose or to the navel ... Let "advanced" bloggers break their spears on this topic on the forums.

Health Dangerous Nonsense

But there are, in fact, Harmful, more precisely, health-threatening Nonsense. One of them is related to setting the actuation force of the fasteners.

Someone once covered up on the Internet (apparently from great intelligence and self-conceit) that the numbers on the scale 4, 5, 6, ..., 10, ... are the weight of the skier without “0”.

Nonsense, unlike knowledge and skills, spread instantly. And now, at any box office and almost in any store they will ask you: “What weight should you bet on?”

For 60 kg - please "6". At 80 kg - please "8" ... etc.

This harmful and VERY dangerous delusion arose due to the fact that manufacturers stopped giving any recommendations on the operation of their products.

This, in turn, also happened "As a result" - as a result of the touching concern of the US Consumer Rights Society for its Clients.

After several successful processes on the topic: "I bought the safest bindings from the best brand, set them up according to the Instructions, and then, out of his own idiocy, broke his leg. So, now send me a couple of million dollars or more as compensation for moral and material damage ... "

As a result, technical recommendations disappeared. Now, as you unpack the box, you can read about what you have undoubtedly made the most the best choice in your life, "grandmerci" and so on, as well as advice to contact the "authorized representatives" of the company for the correct setting.

The circle is closed. Since skis are sold and rented out by everyone who is not too lazy, except for “Authorized Representatives”, the question will undoubtedly await you: “How much weight should you put the mount on?”

For miniature girls and even people of average height and build, who are given from "4" to "6.5" - "7" is nothing. But if a mighty uncle weighing 100-120 kg and with a foot size of 45-47 gets at least "10", then he has only one way - to a traumatologist doctor.

The weight of the skier is a parameter that very indirectly affects Fastening safety index.

Adjustment of bindings of mountain skis. Setting the trigger index.

This parameter is encoded with numbers from 0.5 to 16 (in amateur models) and above - in sports. The figures are conditional. The higher the number, the more force is required to "activate" the mount. BUT ONLY!!! No kilograms of weight.

About the safe actuation force

Now, special attention. What is safe actuation force?

A fairly close analogue is “Safe vehicle speed”. A concept that often baffles those who take driving courses.

The traditional question: "Safe speed" - is it 40 km/h, 60 or 90? Alas, this is a wrong question from the very beginning… Because “Safe speed” is not some absolute figure for all occasions, it is a safe (and accident-free) speed for you personally at a given moment in time.

It can be 5 km / h where a crowd of people is knocking down or 140 km / h when you “leave” a rockfall on a mountain road, etc.

The same can be said about the safe actuation force of the fasteners. In fact, it should open before the injury occurs, in the conditions in which you are here and now.

That's why Index- this is not a constant and not a dogma, but a very variable value. And it depends on many factors:

physical fitness of a skier
his riding style
condition of snow or ice
slope steepness
etc.

I'll give you an example. Spring, month of March ... Yesterday the slope was carried away in the afternoon and on viscous snow, the skis fell deep. A significant part of the work of the fall is spent on the deformation of the snow layer, and only part of this work goes to the mounts. When falling, the impact impulse will be “stretched” in time ... In such conditions Index it should be reduced.

On the contrary, the next morning everything that the skiers “dug up” on the slope froze over. On a steep icy slope, the skis get a lot of random but hard hits. “Accidental” opening of the bindings is fraught with a fall on a hard, rough slope, which is completely “uncomfortable”, therefore it is better Index change up.

As an extreme example, I will give the following.

Beginning of December. Mount Cheget. On the slope The School of Alpine Skiing Instructors of the USSR Mountaineering Administration. Yesterday we rode in the rain. At the end of the day, snow above, still rain below. On top of the Cheget hillocks - crushed, mush, earth and stones. At night - minus 16 ° С. In the morning - "winter fairy tale". From yesterday's mess, today there are icy hollows, gouges and ... a school of instructors. On this day, no one else went down the lower Cheget - only the School.

For those who know what I'm talking about, below the "lower house" the slope was the color of light bottle glass. We descended under the supports of the single-seat, as the snow had washed away in other places. I went down on fabulous slalom skis 2 meters long with bindings Marker-MR, on which after the numbers there was a beech "S", which meant STOP. That is, the mount is guaranteed to NOT OPEN under any impacts and loads.

So, at that time I took out a screwdriver and installed Index on the S.

In those conditions, if the mounts had worked and the skis had come unfastened, then the ears would not have reached down.

This is me to the fact that in the World everything is relative ... And "advice" too 🙂

And now the promised table:

Adjustment of bindings of mountain skis. Table from Salomon.

This table was developed by Salomon for branded rental points and visually modified by the authors of the site.

All values given in the table are indicative with a safety margin when riding on soft, smooth slopes at moderate speeds.

Table from Salomon selected as the most sane and understandable.

For example, a firm marker suggested taking the diameter as the initial parameter Tibia- transverse dimension of the head of the tibia. A very interesting parameter - it can be easily removed from a roentgenogram at a scale of 1: 1, provided that the image is taken from the right angle ... But other criteria are also possible!

I remember somehow in the early 80s of the last century ... Alpine camp "Alibek", the beginning of the New Year's shift.

For those who don’t know, it was still necessary to walk about 5 km to the alpine camp with things from Dombay, settle in multi-seat “cameras”, get, for those who don’t have, skis and boots, usually not their size, etc.

So, tired instructors sit “on the glass” and relieve the stress of the first day. The headman of the “novice” department appears with a list.

The instructor, parting with a glass, looks at the list and asks:
- What did you bring me?
- Branch list.
- Yes, there are only surnames and first names ...
– What else do you need?
- Like what? Tomorrow we will issue yokes * ...

* The word "yoke" means a cunningly curved "hook", to which a wand was tied with a cord. This hook in a sliding mode was laid on an "endless" cable moving from the lower block to the upper one and back. The stick was clamped between the legs, and then the rope was loaded with a skillful movement. If everything worked out as it should, the skier started up the slope. If not, then the yoke bounced off the cable most often in the forehead. And everything was repeated from the beginning.

– So (the instructor continues), in order to choose the right yoke, you need the length of the legs and the width of the ass ...

Another 40 minutes later, the executive headman presented an updated list of the educational department. The yoke was chosen correctly and safely.

Alpine ski bindings are the most important thing!

But we live, fortunately, in a more enlightened time. Therefore, I return to the Salomon table.

Note. A very important parameter is boot sole length, which is measured along its outer part. The fact is that bone strength depends, for example, on age, but does not depend from weight. And the longer the sole - the greater the leverage and, accordingly, the traumatic force.

Therefore, a petite, well-skating girl with a tiny foot can “safely” ride the same Index = 6 as an uncle with a weight of 120 kg and a boot of 45-47.

Please note that the three categories of skiers are not a level technical training. This is, first of all, the manner of skating, the temperament of the individual. That is, the value is constant for a given skier. Of course, all newcomers are Type 1. But after 3-4 days of skiing, you can confidently say “Who is who”.

Now I beg special attention and seriousness.

This is something on which the safety of riding depends even more than all of the above. All these Indexes will work and protect you from the possibility of injury in only one single case:

If the distance between the front and rear binding heads exactly matches the length of the sole of your boot.

Unfortunately, very, very a large number of injuries associated with non-compliance with this particular parameter.

In rentals and shops all the time, both at US and THEM, you will be supplied with mounts for “plus or minus bast shoes” along the length ... The fact is that the mount snaps into place in a fairly wide range, creating the illusion that everything is in order.

But in one case, the boot may be wedged, in the other, even worse, they will be under-cuffed. In both cases, injury can occur before the fastener opens.

All modern bindings have an indication of the size of the boot sole and the distance between the binding heads. But, unfortunately, they are very diverse. Therefore, it is not possible to describe in detail how to find this indication for all types of fasteners.

I will give an example on fairly common Salomon mounts (see the picture).

Adjustment of bindings of mountain skis. How to check the correct head spacing setting.

With the correct spacing between the binding heads, when you fully snap the boot in, the "bird" should fall between the two marks (see picture). If this does not happen, urgently change the distance between the heads or take it back to the rental point, where you can ask for help with this.

Some bindings (for example, Salomon STH 14) do not have a "bird". Checking the correct length setting in such ski bindings is carried out using the adjusting bolt located on the rear head (see figure)

Checking the correct setting of the length of the ski bindings on the adjusting bolt (for example, Salomon STH 14)

At correct setting the length of the fastening, after “pushing in” the boot, the upper plane of the bolt head should be flush with the edge of the platform.

Let me emphasize again - this crucial moment in terms of security.

For understanding! If the length of the mounts is not set correctly, then the springs that provide the “shooting” of the skis will not be fully cocked, or, conversely, they will be overtightened. The effect of this is the same as if you did not correctly set the actuation force on the heads of the fasteners !!!

Be carefull. Do not trust "professionals" in rental centers and know how to double-check everything yourself. After all, the legs (and not only) are YOURS.

P.S. Those who have already traveled with us on ski tours in and know that we pay close attention to the issue of adjusting ski bindings on the very first day on the slope.

And this is no coincidence. Indeed, without practical experience, all these tables and reflections, alas, quickly fade into the background.

So print out this article or just the sign to use them on your first day of skiing. After all, we do not spend so much time in the mountains to exchange it for completely unnecessary injuries and troubles.

P.P.S. What is written in this article is the basics of safety for skiers of all levels of skiing. But on steep slopes and in deep snow, even the timely shooting of a ski can turn into big problem. Read about how in our new article.

If you have any questions about setting up ski bindings, write them in the comments ... We try to answer them regularly.

After mounts installed on skis or in case you have changed boots, you must adjust mounts so as to provide a normalized actuation force. The first thing to do is try to fasten the boot in fastening. All mounts Salomon can be fastened manually by lifting the locking lever. In case this fails because mount adjusted on too large or small size of the boot, it is necessary to lift the bracket 7 with a flat screwdriver and move the heel part of the mount relative to the base slide forward or backward so that the boot is securely fixed in the closed mount. AT mounts the 850 and 900 series use the front Driver head with manual adjustment of the toe lock in the transverse direction of the boot (pictured). unscrew adjusting screws 4 (in the mounts of the 900 series, as well as in the models 897 and adjustment sponges - two screws, on each side of the front head) so that the toe of the boot does not rest against the wings. Make sure that the toe of the boot rests against the special stop on the front head. Fasten the boot in the binding. Make sure the arrows located on bracket 7 are in the middle of the recesses at the bottom rear of the box (for 900 models). On other models (right picture), the triangle stamped on the case mounts(shaded in red) should align with the grooved area on the bracket 7. If necessary, use the adjustment bracket 7 to move the heel part on the slide (marked with an arrow in the right figure) so as to achieve right position shooter. You can find modifications mounts Salomon, in which this adjustment is carried out not by moving the bracket, but by rotating a special screw located between the actuation force adjustment screw 6 and the slide. When adjustments such mounts it is necessary to ensure that the outer side of the head of the adjusting screw is in the corrugated zone on the surface of the sled. without taking the shoes out mounts, adjust position the jaws of the Driver head with screws 4 so that both jaws touch the toe of the boot, but do not pinch it. In the Quadrax front head, the wings are installed automatically. without taking the shoes out mounts, unscrew the adjusting screw 1 for the height of the position of the wings of the front head. Press down on the boot, trying to tilt it back. Turn the screw in such a way that there is a gap of 0.5 mm between the sole of the boot and the friction pad. In the Quadrax front head, the mounting height is set automatically. Turn adjusting screws 3 and 6 to set the required actuation forces on scales 2 and 5.

Setting the actuation force depending on the parameters of the skier and the length of the sole of the boot. A table with such parameters is used in rentals.

Weight, kg	Height, cm	< 250 мм	251 - 270 mm	271 - 290 mm	291 - 310 mm	311 - 330 mm	> 331 mm
10 - 13		0,75	0,75
14 - 17		1	1	0,75
18 - 21		1,5	1,25	1
22 - 25		1,75	1,5	1,5	1,25
26 - 30		2,25	2	1,75	1,5	1,5
31 - 35		2,75	2,5	2,25	2	1,75	1,75
36 - 41		3,5	3	2,75	2,5	2,25	2
42 - 48	< 148		3,5	3	3	2,75	2,5
49 - 57	149 - 157		4,5	4	3,5	3,5	3
58 - 66	158 - 166		5,5	5	4,5	4	3,5
67 - 78	167 - 178		6,5	6	5,5	5	4,5
79 - 94	179 - 194		7,5	7	6,5	6	5,5
> 95	> 195			8,5	8	7	6,5
				10	9,5	8,5	8
				11,5	11	10	9.5

Determine what type of skier you are: Type 1 - skis carefully, at low speeds, on small and medium slopes. In an attempt to reduce the risk of injury, sets on its own mounts less than necessary actuation force, which leads to untimely operation mounts. Type 2 - an average skier, rides at various speeds and on various slopes, including difficult ones. Type 3 - aggressive, dynamic skiing at high speed, mainly on medium and steep slopes. Trying to reduce the chance of untimely response mounts, sets more than necessary actuation force on its mounts, which leads to increased risk. According to the table, select the row corresponding to your height and weight. If these parameters are on different lines, select the top one. According to the table, select the column corresponding to the length of the sole of your boot. The figure at the intersection of the row and column corresponds to the recommended actuation force for type 1 skiers. For type 2 skiers it is necessary to go down one line, type 3 - 2 lines. For skiers over 50 years old, you must then go up 1 line. Note: if the corresponding intersection is empty, select the nearest value located in the selected line to the right.