Ski bindings: how to choose and the principle of operation. How best to install and adjust ski bindings

ATTENTION! When selling (with bindings installed), be sure to adjust the bindings for the skier according to the recommendations of Salomon.

It is necessary to warn the buyer every time (especially a beginner):
-Increased values ​​relative to the recommended leads to an increased risk of injury
- In case of spontaneous operation of the fasteners after the store installation, tighten the fasteners (usually for adults by no more than 0.5 divisions of the DIN scale)
- When doing (aggressive) freeride, participating in competitions, the values ​​​​increase according to the level of physical fitness.

Driver front mount jaw adjustment
1. Loosen the adjustment screw so that the front of the boot touches the front anti-friction plate.
2. Tighten the screw until the jaws come into contact with the front of the boot (fig. A1 - correct, fig. A2 - incorrect).

Driver front mount height adjustment
Using a screw in the upper part of the front mount, set a gap of 0 ... 0.5 mm between the sole of the boot and the anti-friction plate of the mount. Do not overtighten the screw! (Otherwise, the mount will not work correctly - the actual values ​​​​of the actuation force will be significantly less than those set on the DIN scale.)

Quadrax (Z, Cosmic) front mount adjustment

Front mount type Z and Cosmic do not require adjustment.

Adjustment rear mount(Driver, Z and Cosmic mounts).

1. For Driver systems, first adjust the front mount.
2. Insert the boot into the binding and fasten the binding.
3. Check that the pointer is in the area of ​​the tolerance scale - see fig. C2. or C3.
4. Otherwise, make adjustments. Pry off the lever with a screwdriver and move the rear attachment relative to the slide - see figure C1 (check that the lever is locked).

Setting the release force of fasteners according to the DIN scale

Setting the actuation force on the rear and front mount made with the appropriate screws according to the following table.

Procedure for setting the actuation force of fasteners
The amount of actuation force is adjusted by screws on the front and rear mounts and is monitored on the appropriate scale.
It is recommended to set the same actuation force on the front and rear fasteners.

Selecting and setting actuation force values
To set the appropriate trigger force for each skier, the consultant should only use the values ​​recommended exclusively by Salomon in accordance with this procedure. Any deviation from these recommendations can lead to trouble.
In exceptional cases, it is allowed to set lower values ​​of the trigger force than these recommendations at the convincing request of skiers who have previously used Salomon bindings with the corresponding values ​​​​without any problems. However, be careful in such cases and make sure that such skiers do not use too old bindings, bindings with worn elements (skid plates, etc.), bindings with long term operation without proper maintenance (lubrication) or incorrectly adjusted bindings (in particular, with excessive pressure of the boot against the front binding).

Determining the type of skier
The type of skier is determined by dialogue with him, during which all factors that may affect the choice of the binding actuation force must be taken into account. These criteria and the corresponding type of skier are defined as follows:

> Alpine skiers type 1-
- Skiers requesting lower actuation force values ​​than those recommended for type 1 skiers.
- Recommended for beginners (first days of skiing) over 25 years old

> Type 1 skiers
- Rides carefully without risking
- Prefers low speeds
- Rides on easy to moderate slopes
- Average level of skiing, but physical form/ preparation is not up to par.
- Skiers good level, whose skiing style is smooth and relaxed skiing, and who are concerned about safety.
- Prefers lower than average actuation force values, deliberately allowing for a greater risk of spontaneous (untimely) actuation of the mounts for the sake of greater safety in a variety of falls.

> Type 2 skiers
- Intermediate level skiers in good physical shape.
- Rides at various speeds.
- Rides on slopes of different complexity, including difficult ones.
- Any skier who does not belong to all other types of this classification.

> Type 3 skiers
- Rides aggressively.
- Prefers high speeds (mostly rides fast).
- Prefers overestimated release forces, deliberately allowing for the greater risks that can occur with a variety of falls for the sake of less risk of spontaneous (untimely) release of fasteners.

> Skiers type 3+
- Skiers of the highest (professional) level, skiing in extreme style and on the most difficult terrain
- Skiers using more than high values actuation force values ​​compared to type 3 skiers.

Be careful! The type of skier does not match the level of skiing. For example, an expert skier who skis all sorts of slopes, but not too aggressively, might use the trigger force values ​​recommended for Type 2 skiers.

Using a table to determine the trip value

1. Using Chart 1, determine the skier's code (Skier Code column) by his height (Height cm column) and weight (Weight kilo column). The skier code is in the row of the table with the corresponding height and weight of the skier. If the skier's height and weight are on different lines, the skier's code will be determined by the top line of the two.

2. The received skier code corresponds to the skier level type 1.

For skier code type 1-: go to 1 line of the table above.
To get the type 2 skier code: go to line 1 of the table below.
For type 3 skier code: go to 2 rows of the table below.
To get the type 3+ skier code: go to 3 lines of the table below.

3. For skiers aged 50 and over, and for children aged 9 and under, go 1 row above.

4. Use Table 2 (Chart 2) to determine a guide value for actuation force. The recommended value will be at the intersection of the row containing the skier code defined above and the column corresponding to the length of the sole of the skier's ski boot in millimeters.

5. Using a slotted screwdriver, turn the corresponding screws to set the resulting value on the DIN scale of the front and rear binding of each ski.

6. Attention: if there is no value at the intersection of the sole size column and the line with the ski code (the cell is empty), move to the right along the line and use the first value of the actuation force encountered.

7. If it is obvious that the bindings, after setting the release force and correct adjustment, do not work adequately (trigger spontaneously), the consultant, at the request of the skier, can:

slightly increase the value of the actuation force on the rear mount.
in case the problem persists, increase the value on the front mount. It is necessary to act sequentially in steps of no more than half a division on the DIN scale, each time checking whether the problem has been fixed or not.

Actuation force values ​​determined from these tables are provisional and comply with ISO 11088.

Well, let's continue. If you are reading these lines, it means that not so long ago you ironed the snowy slopes and for some reason wondered how to adjust the ski bindings. The need to configure them occurs quite rarely and, as a rule, if you have just acquired a couple skiing, lost or gained weight sharply in the off-season, or someone asked for your skis for rent. No matter how I twisted my fasteners, but in terms of adjustments, everything is outrageously simple there: two screws and a fixing bracket. Oh, I took the skis out of the case and salivated right away, now it would be somewhere up, but immediately down the snow-white “waffle”.

Well, dreams aside, let's take a look at what's what. Adjusting ski bindings, at least the ones I have, consists of two things: adjusting the length (size) of the sole of the boot, as well as the weight and height of the skier. For witchcraft, we need only one Phillips screwdriver. First, adjust the mount in length.

What do ski bindings look like?

The head and heel of the ski binding should hold the boot tightly, so we press its toe firmly against the jaws of the binding head, after which we press up the metal bracket of the rear part of the binding, which we bring along the sled to the heel of the boot and fix it in such a way that when the boot is pressed it clicks and the mounting tabs are up.

Now let's set up the mounts according to your physical parameters. We pick up a screwdriver and begin to turn the adjusting screws (there are only two of them), which we can easily find on the head and heel of the mount. But we do not just twist, but in accordance with the DIN ISO 11088-1988 standard, developed by some smart uncles and aunts. in front and back parts fasteners there is a scale of forces measured in DIN. We expose those numbers that this table offers us:

Standard DIN ISO 11088-1988

How to use it? To begin with, let's break the skier's experience into levels, there are three of them: 1) initial - a skier slowly skiing along gentle slopes; 2) medium - rides both slowly and quickly, even on blue, even on red and black tracks; 3) sports - mainly high-speed skating on red and black slopes. Further, everything is simple. We select the value of our weight and height in the table, move along the line to the right to the column with the size of the length of the sole of the boot. At the crosshairs of the row and column, there will be the number we need, which we put on the mounts with a screwdriver. But there is one caveat. This example is for an entry level skier. If you have classified yourself as an average skating level, go down one line and select the number indicated there; if the riding style is sporty (high-speed), then we go down one more line, respectively. That's how it is, dear friends.

Ski binding adjustment

But here, too, there are exceptions. It happens when the height and weight of a skier are on different lines of this wonderful table. Then we do so. I'll just give an example. The skier likes to ride very fast on difficult slopes. Accordingly, we choose the third (sports) level of skating. The weight of the skier is 55 kilograms, and the height is 160 centimeters. Sole length 280 mm. AT this case you need to select the upper of the two lines, that is, with weight values ​​​​of 49-57 kg and move along this line to the right to the value of the sole length. At the intersection we see the number 4. Well, since the skier is advanced and fast, we go down 2 lines and find the number 6 there. Here we put it on the bindings! That's all.

After the bindings are installed on the skis, or if you have changed boots, you must adjust the bindings so as to provide the specified actuation force.

The first thing to do is try to fasten the boot into the binding. All Salomon bindings can be manually fastened by lifting the locking lever. In the event that this fails because the mount is adjusted too large or small size boot, it is necessary to lift the bracket 7 with a flat screwdriver and move the heel part of the mount relative to the base sled forward or backward so that the boot is securely fixed in the closed mount.

The 850 and 900 series bindings use a front Driver head with manual toe lock adjustment in the lateral direction of the boot (pictured). Unscrew the adjustment screws 4 (in the bindings of the 900 series, as well as in the models 897 and 997 - separate adjustment of the jaws - two screws, on each side of the front head) so that the toe of the boot does not rest against the wings. Make sure that the toe of the boot rests against the special stop on the front head.

Fasten the boot in the binding. Make sure the arrows located on bracket 7 are in the middle of the recesses at the bottom rear of the box (for 900 models). On other models (right picture), the triangle stamped on the body of the bindings (shaded in red) should align with the knurled area on the bracket 7. If necessary, use the adjusting bracket 7 to move the heel part on the slide (marked with an arrow in the right figure) so as to achieve right position shooter.

You can find modifications of Salomon mounts, in which this adjustment is carried out not by moving the bracket, but by rotating a special screw located between the actuation force adjustment screw 6 and the slide. In the case of adjustment of such fasteners, it is necessary to ensure that the outer side of the head of the adjusting screw is in the grooved area on the surface of the sled.

Without removing the boot from the mount, adjust the position of the jaws of the Driver head with screws 4 so that both jaws touch the toe of the boot, but do not pinch it. In the Quadrax front head, the wings are installed automatically.

Without removing the boot from the mount, unscrew the adjusting screw 1 for the height of the position of the wings of the front head. Press down on the boot, trying to tilt it back. Turn the screw in such a way that there is a gap of 0.5 mm between the sole of the boot and the friction pad. In the Quadrax front head, the mounting height is set automatically.

Turn adjusting screws 3 and 6 to set the required actuation forces on scales 2 and 5.

Setting the actuation force depending on the parameters of the skier and the length of the sole of the boot.

Determine what type of skier you are:

• 1 type- rides neatly, at low speeds, on small and medium steep slopes. In an attempt to reduce the risk of injury, it sets less than necessary actuation force on its mounts, which leads to untimely operation of the mounts.
• type 2- an average skier, rides at various speeds and on various slopes, including difficult ones.
• 3 type- aggressive, dynamic skiing at high speed, mainly on medium and steep slopes. In an attempt to reduce the likelihood of untimely actuation of fasteners, he sets more than necessary actuation force on his fasteners, which leads to increased risk.

According to the table, select the column corresponding to the length of the sole of your boot. The figure at the intersection of the row and column corresponds to the recommended actuation force for type 1 skiers. For type 2 skiers it is necessary to go down one line, type 3 - 2 lines. For skiers over 50 years old, you must then go up 1 line.

Note: if the corresponding intersection is empty, select the nearest value located to the right in the selected row.

Fasteners for ski sports equipment perform two functions: transferring forces to the equipment and detaching from the runners in the event of a threat of injury. They are a drive, which is an intermediate link between the leg and the skis. Factors that ensure both safety and speed of movement depend on their quality. Proper adjustment of ski bindings guarantees the fulfillment of the tasks.

Fasteners are installed on skis or platforms. Often they are made by manufacturers along with mounts and have holes for their installation. You need to purchase all components from one manufacturer. Otherwise, you will have to customize the details.

The part has two parts and a plate:

• plate under the front of the boot. It provides a low degree of friction;
• the task of the front part is to separate the boot in the lateral direction;
• at the rear, it detaches upwards.

Coverages are performed according to standard sizes. This allows you to use the shoes of any company. You don't need to select it specifically.

According to their design, fasteners are divided into:

• with manual clasp;
• with semi-automatic or automatic fastening.

Each type has disadvantages. In the first case, the high cost of models, and in the second, the likelihood of a quick breakdown if water gets into the clasp and freezes. Often jams if there is no support on a hard surface.

Fixture setup rules

Before going to the ski track, the ski bindings are adjusted. To do this, you need to know a couple of nuances.

On the front of the fastener there is a scale with which the adjustment is performed. Each mark on it means the weight of the skier, reduced by 10 times. For example, "5" means that the weight is 50 kg. The bottom line is that with an effort of 50 kg, the ski will independently detach from the boot.

A screw is located in the end part of the front part. With its help, the scale indicators are changed. Usually it turns tight, so you have to make an effort.

On the back, the scale is hidden under the clamping mechanism. The principle of adjustment is similar to the front coverage. Adjustable with a screw.

Weight adjustment can be done either manually or automatically.

Fixture Adjustment Tools

To set up you will need tools:

• directly sports equipment, fasteners for it, boots;
• yardstick;
• screwdriver;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• screws.

The set of tools depends on the installation method:

• with drilling;
• through embedded platforms.

Ski binding force adjustment

Adjustment of fasteners is carried out taking into account several factors:

• taking into account the experience and manner of skiing skier;
• adjustment of the ski binding according to the weight of the user.

The adjustment is made so that during intensive skiing the device does not come off.

Adjustment rules:

1. The indicator at which the device will operate is determined. For this, the weight of an experienced skier is divided by 10. For those who have skied recently, a couple of units are subtracted from the figure obtained.
2. The maximum value of the adjustment indicators is determined by the formula: the user's weight is divided by 10. The error is 1 - 2 points in any direction.
3. Often the force indicator is presented in kilograms and not in units. With this option, the weight of the skier is taken away within 30 - 40 kg.
4. You can help to correctly set the indicator of effort using a special table. It is included with the purchase of the mounting system.

In the absence of tuning experience, problems arise. In this case, a specialist will be able to guarantee high quality.

Using built-in rails and platforms

The setup process is easier in sports equipment using rails or platforms. The advantages of this option include:

• do-it-yourself equipment assembly;
• from the tools you need one screwdriver;
• Allows adjustment to fit any size boot. The manufacturer doesn't matter;
• it is possible to move the center of the ski boots.

Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

• the range of fasteners of this type is limited;
• after some time, the device is displaced and a gap is formed. In this case, ski control becomes more complicated. It is impossible to get pleasure from such skating;
• the weight of the skis increases significantly, which interferes with the performance of some of the serious elements performed by skiers with experience.

After self installation fasteners must be adjusted. Often inventory is bought from already installed fasteners. In these cases, the sales assistant in the store can adjust them. Some companies require specialist tuning. Trying it yourself will void the warranty.

• adjustment is carried out carefully, without exceeding the established parameters;
• with a decrease in the degree of effort, it will not be possible to enjoy riding. will bounce off every slight load. This brings a lot of problems.
• Take into account the model of shoes. The type of sole is different from the standard. The degree of ski slip will be different.

Alpine skiing is a passion that has conquered more than one person. These are both professionals and amateurs of skiing. Full enjoyment of it will provide high-quality equipment. You need to purchase it only in specialized stores.

How do ski bindings work? How to configure and install them? What to look for when buying? Read this article and you will never buy a ski pig in a poke again.

Ski bindings are designed to transmit the commands of a person to skis as accurately as possible through the pressure of the legs on the boots. Then they go where they need to go. Together with them, it works great.

At the same time, the fasteners “monitor” the safety of the legs. As soon as there is a danger of injury, for example, when falling, they immediately release their legs from the skis.

In some places tanned (due to ski masks) the faces of the crew hung over the schemes of the mounts. The captain pushed his helmet over his eyes in puzzlement, scratched the back of his head with a broken ski-stop, and muttered, “Those damn bindings, damn them, have become too complicated, it's time to equip the expedition!
Hey on the coast, who wants to know more about ski bindings? Come on board, we're leaving!"

The main parts of ski bindings

All ski bindings consist of a front head and a back heel. Both parts have DIN actuation force adjustment mechanisms with digital scales.

The actuation force value (what a difficult set of three words to perceive!) is a number on the binding scale corresponding to a certain load at which the foot (boot) is released from the binding. That is, the mount works. The higher this value, the more strength must be applied in order for the mount to work.

All bindings are equipped with ski stops - ski brakes, thanks to which the unfastened ski (usually) does not go far. The ski stops hit the slope and she stops.

Many models are equipped with a platform with “rails”, along which (using a special mechanism) both parts of the mount move to adjust to the size of the boot.

This is the general picture, now let's look at the details.

How ski bindings work

The front head presses the toe of the boot against the front of the ski. When the load on the leg becomes traumatic, the binding releases the boot. If the loads are not dangerous, then the mount softens them, allowing the boot to deviate from the central position.

Front head operation

See how the front head works:

In addition to moving black "cheeks", the video shows the so-called anti-friction plate, which shifts to the left / right when side loads occur on the legs. About her we will talk below.

In the picture below, the arrows show the directions of loads on the legs, under which the bindings work:

The picture shows three arrows, but one more is missing - up. Below, on the example of the Tyrlia bindings, the operation of the front head of modern bindings is shown - it moves not only in the horizontal plane, but also vertically, which allows you to free your legs when falling back.

The work of the back of the mounts

The back (heel) fixes the boot from behind, otherwise it performs the same functions as the front.

If the mount worked, there is no need to worry, you immediately fasten the skis back, having previously caught your breath and made sure that all parts of the body are intact. Just drop the heel down if it is still buttoned (the front head has worked) and snap the boot back in.

On the track, you can often see beginners trying to get the boot into the binding with the heel up to no avail. This is their first time and no one has explained to them what needs to be done. If you see the poor fellows, don't drive past, because now you know the answer. You will be very grateful.

The picture shows that when falling, the backs on the skis remained in the upper position, they will need to be lowered.

Other technologies in mounts

In addition to fixing the boot and precise operation, the bindings must have a dosed elasticity. That is, with non-hazardous loads, allow the boot to move slightly relative to the ski to the left / right, each time returning it to its original position (remember the video above?).

But that's not all.

A boot caught in the bindings can prevent the middle zone of the ski from flexing exactly as the designers intended. Therefore, tricky systems are used in the bindings, which ensure the free deflection of the ski.

But the subtleties do not end there.

The bindings use mechanisms that not only allow the ski under the boot to flex freely, but also compensate for the inevitable convergence of the heel and front head with a strong deflection. We want to say that the ski-binding-boot bundle is a “living” mechanism, but a tightly knocked together and screwed construction.

Here's what we're talking about:

Video: Smart bindings know that this is the normal operation of the ski and the boots don't shoot.

Attachment segmentation

If so, then every skier will want to have reliable, accurate, sophisticated and durable bindings. But it will be expensive. However, the designers found a solution: not all of us need all the functions in full at once.

Athletes have the same requirements, active skiers have others, novice girls have third, and children have fourth. Different loads, operating conditions, the physical form of skiers, the speed of the descents, and finally the weight.

Accordingly, each brand produces a series of bindings for skiers of various levels and for different options skating. Honestly assess your level of skiing and tell the seller - he will select the bindings you need.

Ski binding manufacturers

The main manufacturers of ski bindings are:

• Vist (rare)

You also need to know that the mounts under the brands Elan, Head and Fischer are produced by the mentioned Tyrolia. And under the brands Blizzard, K2, Nordica and Volkl - Marker.

Regardless of the brand, all industry-leading fasteners provide reliable actuation. And to simplify the choice, the vast majority of skis are still factory equipped with the most suitable mounts and are sold in kits.

If skis and bindings are sold separately, manufacturers often indicate in catalogs (rather than store price lists) which binding models will work best with a particular ski model.

To be able to adjust the bindings according to the length of the soles of your boots, the bindings are mounted on special base platforms with adjustment systems.

Actuation force scale DIN

If you need to buy mounts separately or choose from the options offered, main parameter – actuation force (number on the scale), which is measured in DIN units.

The set force is visible on the scales located on the front heads and heels of the bindings. Usually the desired value is selected with a screwdriver, but for beginners it is better to do this in a store or ski workshop. And for this you will need at least one boot in which you will ride.

In this picture, the DIN scale is 4–13.

If you are a beginner, then when you see DIN 8-16, 10-18 scales, you should recoil from them, such mounts are for aggressive riders. When it comes time to buy these, you will already know a lot about skiing.

The DIN force you need can be roughly determined by the following method. Divide your weight by ten. For example, your weight is 80 kg, which means the initial number is 8. Subtract about 20% (in our example, 6.5 will remain) and use a screwdriver to set the marks on all four scales to this number.

For beginners and older skiers, you need to reduce the effort by another 10% of the figure obtained - up to 6. If the bindings will be unfastened during normal skiing, gradually increase the effort simultaneously on all ¼ scales.

Choose fixtures so that your DIN value is centered on the scale, not close to the edge. That will be right.

And keep in mind: even if your weight exceeds a centner, it is highly not recommended to tighten the fasteners to the number “10” - it is too dangerous. Do not think that you have iron legs and they will withstand any load.

More precisely, you can set the actuation force according to the table below, which takes into account another important parameter - the length of the sole of the boot.

Remember that ski boots often from different manufacturers. different length soles, even with the same foot size. This means that if during skiing you want to exchange skis with Masha, who also has a size 35, then it is far from a fact that your boots will fit her bindings. In most cases, fasteners need to be adjusted to the new size. Sometimes you may need a screwdriver, but not always:

And if you still exchanged skis, be sure to check the DIN value. It may not be suitable for your riding style and weight - the binding will work and release the boot at the most inopportune moment, and this is a threat of injury. There's no need for a screwdriver here.

Approximate force ranges

• For the smallest children - 0.5-2.5 DIN
• Children - 0.75-4.5 DIN
• Junior - 2-6 (2.5-7) DIN
• Simple models - 2.5-9 DIN
• Universal models - 3-10 (3.5-11) DIN
• For experts and riders - 4-12 (6-14) DIN
• For athletes - scale up to 16 DIN and above

How to choose ski bindings

Since not all skiers need the most complex, most powerful, and therefore the most expensive bindings, manufacturers produce several product groups. Each - with a set of mechanisms and technologies that are most suitable for a specific group of riders.

Budget mounts - for beginners

Fairly light budget models are available for those who ride at low and medium speeds. This design saves from injuries during falls, which are typical for beginner skiers: they fall back or sideways, in which case there is a dangerous twisting load on the leg. The boot is released from the front head, moving sideways or sideways-up on a special slippery anti-friction plate.

Bindings for experienced riders

Somewhat more complex and powerful mounts for more experienced skiers. This is the most massive group of fasteners, in more solid construction which already includes mechanisms that are triggered when falling forward - for example, in soft loose snow or on an icy track.

These mounts have less plastic and more metal, which makes them more reliable than the previous category.

Sports mounts

Even harder and more powerful bindings for freeriders and professional athletes. They use a metal frame or in general the entire structure is completely made of metal. More complex anti-friction mechanisms are used in the front head and vibration damping and shock absorption systems.

A separate group of bindings is for children and juniors. Depending on the specialization and weight of the young skier, various materials and designs that, like those of adults, can be simple or complex. Sometimes these are lighter-duty versions of powerful adult models.

Of course, such bindings also differ in size, because children's boots are smaller than adults.

Carefully and thoughtfully read the descriptions of the mounts on the manufacturer's website. Words such as "aggressive", "sports", "racing (cruising)" will mean that this is not a model for beginners.

Ski touring bindings (bonus)

There is a whole class of ski bindings for a ski tour, which is represented by two types of structures. The first is pin bindings, and they have little to do with our review, since they require special boots. If you do not know anything about them, then watch the video - to expand your ski horizons. Personally, I always look at such developments with awe!

But you definitely need to know about the second type - these are frame mounts. If you do not dive into the details (we have already dived deep!), Then these are ordinary mounts (described above), but planted on a special frame (hence the name).

Such mounts are suitable for both skiing up and downhill. These characteristics are important for those who ride off-piste and away from lifts.

This 2 minute video shows the difference between pin and frame mounts:

This is for your information. It is not advisable to buy such mounts at the initial stage of skiing - it is expensive.

Mounting installation

Installing ski bindings is too important a process to do on your own, especially if you are a beginner.

It is better to entrust this to specialists, because we are talking about the health of your feet. Don't forget to bring one boot - you'll need it when installing the bindings.

For your information, every serious store offers free installation of bindings immediately after the purchase of the kit (skis + bindings). Remember this.

Let's float!

We hope we managed to dispel that mystical fog around the ski bindings, in which we started our journey. And now you know how to buy what you really need and fit, and not what negligent sellers in unlucky stores are trying to shove you.

Remember: most of us do not need powerful and expensive mounts, because for the most part we are amateurs.