Let's make wood noble. Impregnation for wood: how to stain a wooden surface How to make wood stain cognac color

To give greater decorativeness and aesthetics to wood products, they are treated with wood stain. The solution changes the tone and emphasizes the texture of the wood. Modern stains have antiseptic properties and can significantly extend the life of the product.

Consider what types of stains are, how you can make a composition with your own hands, and what are the basic rules for applying stain to wood.

The purpose of wood stain

Stain is a tinting composition that is applied to treated wood to change the natural color of wood, plywood, furniture, chipboard, fiberboard and MDF. Morilka has a second name Beyts.

A special composition penetrates deep into the wood, so that the texture of the wood is preserved. Such an effect from enamel or paint cannot be achieved.

Some use wood stain to hide the true type of wood, such as painting inexpensive pine in the colors of noble woods. Others use the wood stain to update the interior of the room or to emphasize the beautiful texture of natural material.

With the skillful use of stain and a combination of several shades at the same time, you can turn an ordinary wood product into an artistic value.

In addition to decorative functions, some types of stains also have protective properties. Wood-protective compositions include stains on an oil-alkyd basis or solvents. Such stains are able to protect the tree from insect pests, the appearance of mold and fungi.

Types of stains for wood processing

The main criterion by which all stains are classified is the basis for making the solution. The most common stains are water, alcohol, oil, acrylic and wax based. Consider the features of each type.

Water-based stains are available in two forms: dry stains in powder form for self-dilution in water, and in a ready-to-use state. Water stains take a long time to dry, so it will take a long time to get a uniform tone.

The main inconvenience of using stain is that during processing, the composition raises the wood fiber. On the one hand, this emphasizes the structure of the tree, and on the other hand, it makes the product more vulnerable to moisture. Therefore, before applying the stain, the wood should be wetted superficially, left to soak for a while and carefully sanded.

Alcohol stain is a solution of organic dyes with pigments in ethyl alcohol. Alcohol compositions are used for antiseptic and decorative painting of wooden products. Such stains reduce pile uplift and do not cause swelling of the wood.

Using alcohol stain it is difficult to achieve uniform coloring, as the composition dries quickly, and stains can form. For toning small items, such stains can be suitable, but it will be very problematic to paint the parquet.

Alcohol stains are applied only with a spray gun (spray gun), and when painted with a brush, the result can be unpredictable

Oil based stain have many tones and shades. Oil stain contains dyes soluble in drying oil and oils. White spirit is used as a solvent.

Oil stain - the most convenient to use: it can be applied different ways, does not lift the fibers and is distributed evenly over the entire surface. Products treated with oil-based stains can be easily repainted and restored.

Wax and acrylic stains- the latest generation of tinting materials. Stains based on acrylic resins and wax form a thin colored film on the surface of the wood, which additionally protects the material from excessive moisture. These types of stains evenly "lay" on the surface and are well suited for processing wooden floors.

Acrylic stains have a wide range of tones that can be mixed to achieve subtler shades. The composition has no unpleasant odor, does not ignite and is suitable for all types of wood. Acrylic stains do not emit harmful fumes, and dry quickly after application.

When working with acrylic stain, it is important not to overdo it with the layer thickness. good effect can be obtained when applying no more than 2 layers, if more, then stains may form

Wax stains are very soft wax. They can be used directly on wood or pre-painted surfaces. Wax stains are applied with a cloth and spread over the wood with a rubbing motion.

Wax stains look most effective in combination with polishing. This technique is often used when finishing turning products, profiles and threads.

Important! Wax-based stains must not be used before wood treatment with two-component acid-curing varnishes or polyurethane.

Making a stain with your own hands: recipes for craftsmen

Plant stains

You can give wood a different shade with the help of plant components.

Wood stains based on coffee, tea and vinegar

Do-it-yourself wood stain can be made from improvised means: coffee, tea and vinegar.

You can give the tree a cherry, brown and dark brown hue with a solution of potassium permanganate: 50 g should be diluted in 1 liter of warm water, applied to the wood, and after 5 minutes wipe the surface with a soft cloth. In order to get a brighter shade, the treatment with potassium permanganate must be repeated.

After treating the wood with potassium permanganate stain, the surface must be covered protective composition, otherwise potassium permanganate will fade

Stains with chemical components

If you want to get a lasting color, you can experiment and create a stain from chemicals.

Whitening stains

Bleaching wood allows you to prepare the product for painting and achieve expressive tone. Some species of trees acquire unexpected color shades when bleached. For example, a walnut, which has a monochromatic texture with purple tint, after treatment with a bleaching stain, it becomes pale pink or alo-pink. Apple tree bleaching makes wood noble color Ivory.

Whitening stain: photo

For bleaching, you can use different solutions. Some act very quickly, others more slowly.

1. Solution of oxalic acid. Dissolve 1.5-6 g of oxalic acid in 100 g of boiled water. This composition is suitable for bleaching light woods: linden, white poplar, light walnut, birch and maple. Dirty tones or gray spots may appear on other types of wood. Veneer sheets after bleaching should be washed with a solution (composition: hot water - 100 g, soda ash - 3 g, bleach - 15). This treatment deresin the surface and raises the pile of wood.
2. Bleaching with 25% hydrogen peroxide is suitable for most tree species except lemon tree, oak and rosewood. Products, after treatment with peroxide, do not need to be washed. Peroxide solution bleaches only finely porous tree species. Wood containing tannins is very difficult to lighten with such a stain. To improve the bleaching process, tannins must first be treated with a 10% solution of ammonia.

The results of bleaching different tree species:

• birch after bleaching in a solution of oxalic acid gets a greenish tint;
• ash and oak veneer becomes noticeably lighter after treatment with oxalic acid;
• Anatolian nut, when bleached in hydrogen peroxide (peroxide concentration not lower than 15%), acquires a golden hue, and walnut - pink color.

Methods for applying stain

Wood stain processing can be done in one of four ways:

1. Spraying. The stain is applied to the surface of the wood with an airbrush. Spraying allows you to achieve an even distribution of the stain and obtain an even texture.
2. Trituration. The stain is applied to the wood and evenly rubbed over the entire area of ​​the product. The coating is transformed, the texture becomes pronounced. This method is optimal for porous wood species, and the stain should not be used to dry quickly.
3. Application with a roller or swab. This method is used when processing products with a small area, it helps to avoid streaks and provides uniform distribution stains on the surface.
4. Brush application. In the absence of a spray gun or swab, you can use a brush, but this method is not suitable for all types of stain. Experts note that when applied with a brush, the wood gives a deeper, richer color than with other methods.

The main principles of wood stain processing

In order to get a beautiful product from natural material, you must adhere to the basic rules of wood processing.

Applying stain: video

Possible defects and their elimination

It is necessary to apply the stain very carefully, since it will be quite difficult to remove the resulting defects.

The formation of streaks. This happens if the stain is applied in large quantities and dries very quickly. In this case, you should try to remove the stain layer as much as possible. Another layer of stain should be applied to the hardening layer, which will soften the drying one, and then remove excess solution with a rag.

If the stain is completely dry, then a paint thinner must be used to remove it. However, the entire pigment cannot be removed. The top painted layer can be removed with a planer or sandpaper.

Product spotting. If the treated wood has an uneven density or wavy, then the absorption of the stain may occur unevenly - the color will be richer in some places, and lighter in others.

Spotting on products made of mahogany or walnut looks attractive, but on wood of cherry, birch, pine, spruce and poplar - it does not look natural

Spotting is very difficult to remove. You can remove the layer of stained wood with a planer, in plywood you will need to remove all the front veneer.

It is better to prevent the appearance of spotting in advance:

• test the wood - apply stain to an unnecessary piece of the workpiece;
• use stain gel.

Stain-gel - a thick, pasty stain that does not spread and does not penetrate deep into the wood. In addition, helium stains have a low absorption rate.

Do-it-yourself stain :) Research by Yulia Zhushman

Hello again!Me with another article. Since journalism is my kindred occupation, when I become interested in some topic, I begin to dig into what and how, and it turns out that sometimes my theory outweighs practice. I got carried away with the topic of staining (I see on the site that many of you are also interested in it), and discovered a huge number of ways to do this business without industrial stain. The staining process itself has been described many times, but the materials are less. After sitting on the forums of furniture makers (although Google stubbornly offered entomologists) - chose information more or less verified, excluding recipes, such as: “... take a fern flower, add an owl feather, a claw bat and the dragon's eye. Although, to be honest, some of the ways left still remind me of this

So, many methods are quite curious - I will make a reservation: I haven’t checked it myself yet, but I really want to. And, knowing what an experimental spirit hovers here, I think I will be of interest to you. After all, it is curious to try simply because it is curious, and not because you can’t just buy ready-made. Moreover, all the recipes are not “strict”, you can add everything that seems appropriate yourself - no one will beat you for it. Here. Long introduction to a long article. On the advice of Alice, I break it into two parts - in the first one they will be accessible to almost everyone, and in the second - more tricky in terms of materials.

Before starting the “experiments”, I remind you that the color of the stain should NOT match real color material to be washed! The stain should be darker (the color should be concentrated) of the material. So:

1. “There will be coffee for you, and there will be cocoa with tea!”

Totally unexpected colors color combinations are obtained in a decoction of ground coffee beans, sometimes with the addition of baking soda. Strong instant coffee is also used. In this method, we calculate the desired strength ourselves.

2. “- Well, what, kids? Will we teach botany or will someone treat the teacher with a herbarium?”

If you brew larch bark into a strong solution and cover the tree (preferably birch), shade it turns out reddish.

To give wood Brown dry the slightly rotten shells of nuts in the shade and then grind them into powder in a mortar. To make a stain from a powder, you need to boil it in boiling water, filter the broth and throw a little potassium carbonate or simply soda into it. If the wood treated with walnut stain, after it dries, moisten aqueous solution potassium dichromate, then the wood will become reddish. And if treated with dilute acetic acid, then the same brown wood will become - grayish.

Making a stain that gives reddish tint light wood of a tree is also possible from onion peel. Prepare a very strong decoction onion peel and use it on its own or as an addition to brown stains.

Take crushed oak bark, willow, alder earrings and walnut shells in equal parts. Pour into cold water, bring to a boil, add half a teaspoon of baking soda and boil the solution a little more over low heat. Strain. Same way good color achieved by similar preparation of a solution of willow bark, apple and walnut shells. With subsequent tinting, the product acquires smooth brown color identical to natural.

Saturated black color can be obtained by using a solution of willow and alder bark.

Relief forms can be impregnated with hot cottonseed oil, which makes the carving stronger and the relief acquires a noble dark color , which, after coating the product with lacquer, its polishing, becomes more intense.

Light wood can be painted yellow decoction of unripe buckthorn fruits, Brown- from the bark of an apple tree and shells of a walnut. If you add alum to each of the listed decoctions, then the color tone will increase.

3. National Russian drink - vinegar for free!

Fat-free small nails or iron shavings are poured with acetic acid and the composition is allowed to brew from a day to a week (depending on the desired saturation) in dark place. This composition covers the product. True, it has a strong pungent smell and it is better for them to cover the tree on fresh air. This American recipe is called ebonyization(ebony tree), because on rocks with a high content of tannins, such as walnuts, a well-defined black color, sometimes almost like anthracite. True, some furniture makers note that polyurethane varnish water-based just curls up when applied to such a tree, apparently due to vinegar. But Nitra is fine.

4. “- Give me, please, a pack of chlorpromazine. “We can’t sell it to you: it’s a very strong sedative, it’s only sold with a doctor’s prescription. “Well, okay, give me a box of potassium permanganate then - I’d rather blow these Martians to hell.”

In a liter of warm water, dilute 50 grams of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate), and then apply it to the wood with a brush and wipe it off with a damp cloth after 5 minutes. This stain should be used immediately after preparation. If necessary, repeat the wood treatment. Shades come from cherry before dark brown, almost black. golden brown the color of birch veneer can be obtained by applying a 3.5% solution of potassium permanganate. If then nothing protects the tree - potassium permanganate will fade

5. School chemistry course: “Do you have blue in the store? -There is. - What colour?"

Moisten the surface of the wood of the tree with a solution of 35 g of potassium carbonate or 75 g of soda ash per liter of water, and then after drying, moisten it with a mixture of 50 grams of tannin (available at a pharmacy) per liter of water. Do not rush to repeat the staining of wood with wood stain - its color appears only after an hour ...

If wood, high content tannin (oak), moisten slaked lime, then after drying it will become light brown. But the walnut will be painted in greenish brown color.

To make the oak do more dark, use 88% ammonia diluted in water. Avoid breathing vapors and do not allow liquid to come into contact with bare skin. Work outdoors whenever possible. After an hour in the open air, the mixture loses its strength, so apply the stain very quickly or gradually mix new portions, and when the wood takes on the color you want, rinse the solution with water. Place a small part to be painted in an enamel or glass dish and place an open jar of ammonia there. Close the top of the container tightly. After a few hours, the staining process will be completed.

Sliced ​​light wood veneer can be stained yellow by applying a decoction of barberry root (can be bought at a pharmacy). Strain the broth, you can add 2% alum to it (also in a pharmacy) and heat it to a boil again. The cooled broth will be ready for use.

. Orange color obtained by applying a decoction of young shoots of poplar with an admixture of alum. Boil poplar branches (150 g) in 1 liter of water, to which alum is added, for 1 hour. Then filter and leave to stand in an open glass dish. Defend it in a bright room for a week. After that, he gets golden yellow color.

For getting greenish color in a decoction of young shoots of poplar with alum (see above), add a decoction of oak bark. A greenish color will be obtained if fine copper powder (50 ... 60 g) is dissolved in vinegar, and the solution is boiled for 10 ... 15 minutes. Soak the sliced ​​veneer in hot solution.

For getting black color Mix juice of privet fruits (wolf berries) with acids. For brown- with vitriol, blue- with drinking soda, scarlet- with Glauber's salt, green- with potash.

In some cases, it is necessary to select silvery or gray coloring of sliced ​​veneer. To get a silver-gray color when staining light rocks, add vinegar (1: 1) to rain water (? - I think you can also use ordinary water), place it in this solution rusty nails or wire. After the solution settles, lower the veneer into it. Control the desired color visually.

Here, some methods require, of course, the presence of familiar chemists, but for the sake of interest I publish them too - what if someone just has blue vitriol lying around at home, and he is racking his brains: where to apply it?

6. “Vasya, put your hand in this glass. - Dropped it. - Do you feel anything? - Not. - Means sulphuric acid in another glass.

Moisten wood with a high concentration of tannin (available at a pharmacy) with 12% ammonia solution, and it will acquire grey-brown color.

With the help of an aqueous solution of copper sulfate, you can give gray-blue shade of oak, muffle the tone of mahogany or make gray sycamore - this tone is also called "maple". The effect will begin to appear after the wood dries.

. Yellow receives veneer from light wood in a solution of potassium chloride (10 g per 1 liter of water at 100 ° C).

If a birch or maple is covered with a solution of pyrogallic acid and, after letting it dry, is covered with an aqueous solution of chromium potassium, then you get blue color.

You can also use many different acids and their mixtures, but for the sake of everyone's safety it is better not to publish - who knows how far the curiosity of some and how deep their knowledge of chemistry is?

7. “In a drawing lesson, the teacher mixed blue and yellow paints, and it turned out to be green. The children thought she was a witch and burned her."

Various shades of brown can also be obtained using aniline dyes. These paints can be bought in powder - it dissolves easily in water, as well as in turpentine and oil. For a dark stain, mix two aniline paints - Vandijk brown and Bismarck brown. Dilute each paint separately in warm water. Add 7 ml of glue and a drop of vinegar to both solutions. Mix paints with each other to achieve the shade you want; the more water you add, the lighter the stain will be.

You can take dyes for clothes. Yellow, red, and brown. Dilute in water approximately 100-150 ml. each sachet in a separate vial. And now any stain can be mixed from these colors.

8. Whitening: then we are coming to you!

With the help of bleaching, you can not only prepare the wood for painting, but also achieve expressive tone, weakening it to the required level. Some types of wood, when bleached, sometimes acquire the most unexpected color shades. For example, walnut, which has a monochromatic surface texture with a purple tint, becomes pure scarlet pink shade, with further bleaching - pale pink.

If you bleach an apple tree in a mixture of ammonia-hydrogen peroxide, it turns out very beautiful tree ivory. Whitening is quite deep, up to 0.5 mm, can be polished.

Used for bleaching various solutions. Some of them act quickly, others slowly. The bleaching technology depends on the composition of the bleach. In the practice of amateur carpenters, a solution of oxalic acid (1.5 ... 6 g) is traditionally used in boiled water(100 g). In such a solution, light rocks are well bleached - linden, birch, maple, light walnut, white poplar; other breeds develop gray spots and dirty shades. After bleaching, the veneer sheets are washed with a solution that simultaneously lifts the pile and deresin the surface. The composition of the solution (in parts by weight): bleach - 15, soda ash - 3, hot water - 100. First, soda is dissolved, then bleach is added when the solution cools. After applying the solution, the wood is washed with water.

For many species, with the exception of oak, rosewood, lemon tree and some others, hydrogen peroxide (25% solution), which is sold in pharmacies in the form of a solution or perhydrol tablets, is an effective bleaching agent. After bleaching with hydrogen peroxide, the wood does not need to be washed. The whitening process is controlled only visually. Hydrogen peroxide bleaches mainly finely porous rocks and ash. Breeds containing tannins are difficult to bleach in hydrogen peroxide or are not bleached at all (for example, oak). To speed up the bleaching process, the surface of such rocks must be moistened with a 10% solution of ammonia.

Birch wood after bleaching in a 3 ... 5% solution of oxalic acid acquires greenish tint. Oak and ash veneer is bleached with oxalic acid. For other types of wood, lemon or acetic acid. To do this, acids are diluted with water in a ratio of 50 g per 1 liter of water. To get a gold veneer, soak the Anatolian walnut in hydrogen peroxide, visually observing the appearance of the desired shade. Hydrogen peroxide must be at least 15% concentration. In the same way, you can get pink color, decolorizing some walnut varieties in 30% hydrogen peroxide. To obtain blue on a white background, bleach a walnut with contrasting transitions of tones in a solution of hydrogen peroxide.

That's all, congratulations to everyone who made it to the end alive!

The tree requires special protection, in most cases it is enough to use paints and varnishes to solve this issue. For example, you can learn how to cover a tree with wood stain. It will be able to penetrate into the wood structure and protect wooden products from deformation, moisture and dirt.

To begin with, you should study the existing range of paints and varnishes. We pay attention exclusively to options intended for lumber.

Alcohol varnishes

group of transparent and translucent coatings, with which you can give the surface shine, as well as protect against external factors. They include complex components:

• shellac;
• sandarac;
• dug;
• synthetic resins.

Carefully study the label with varnish, the strength of the alcohol used must be at least 90º. Ethyl alcohol can be used as a solvent.

The right tool will highlight the structure and tone of the wood.

Oil varnishes

Among the main components, resins and pigments are distinguished, which are dissolved in oil. The consistency can be liquid and semi-liquid, which allows it to be applied to the surface of the tree with a brush or roller. Affordable price is an attractive and positive factor for the majority of the population. After processing, a thin layer appears on the surface. transparencies that acts as a protective barrier to moisture and ultraviolet cure. Perhaps the manifestation of a characteristic yellow tint.

A high degree of protection allows you to cover oil varnishes wooden products that are in the open air.

Nitrocellulose varnishes

The basis includes nitrocellulose, which is diluted in organic solvents. The applied layer will dry for a long time, so you should take the item away from open windows and doors. The resulting hard coating will be resistant to both sunbeams as well as mechanical stresses.

When working with this varnish, you need to take care of your protection: wear a respirator, goggles and rubber gloves.

Water varnishes

Acrylic base in aquatic environment- this is the composition of the varnish. Before applying water varnish to a wooden surface, it must be thoroughly mixed or shaken. After complete drying, the varnish layer will protect the wood from water, solar radiation and mechanical loads.

The staining process is used to give wood a certain color, in particular the color of a different type of wood. The applied composition will penetrate into the structure without creating a film. This allows you to emphasize the structure and pattern of the wood and, in addition, to protect the wood. The main types of stains:

• water based;
• solvent based;
• based on wax;
• alcohol based.

In a specialized store you can find the following range of stains: liquid concentrate, solution and powder.

Removing the old layer

It is necessary to apply both varnish and stain only on the prepared surface, if we are talking about an old piece of furniture. To date, you can use three ways to clean wood from the old coating:

• flush;
• thermal effect;
• mechanical impact.

It is necessary to determine which method is suitable on an individual basis, based on the type of product and the paintwork materials that were used before. Let's consider each method separately.

1. In the first case, the old varnish is removed using special liquid solutions. It is applied with an ordinary paint brush to the surface, and then wrapped plastic wrap to form the effect of a thermos. A day later, with a spatula, the coating is removed, washed with water. A new layer can be applied after 24 hours.
2. The second method is faster, but for this you need a building hair dryer. Armed with a simple spatula, you can begin the process: small plot heat up and carefully remove the old coating.
3. The third option is suitable for processing a large area, such as a closet or floor. Of the special tools you will need a grinder, the remains are cleaned with sandpaper.

The composition of solvents in most cases includes toxic substances, so when working with them, you should wear a respirator.

Surface preparation

It's not enough just to remove old layer, the surface needs additional processing, that is, grinding. Regardless of whether the material is new or old, it must be carefully examined for defects. If seams, cracks and knots were found, then they should be eliminated.

The cracks at the joints are sealed with a special putty for wood. After drying, the irregularities are cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper. Raw wood does not need to be processed, since all actions will be meaningless: when dried, the tree is deformed, respectively, the applied layer is also deformed.

Due to the property of deep penetration of stain into the pores of wood, the solution enters into a chemical reaction with tannins, so that the product will be completely protected from fungi, mold and insects. To know how to properly apply stain on a wooden surface, you need to familiarize yourself with the technologies and techniques.

1. Trituration. The stain is applied to a wooden surface, after which it is rubbed over the entire area. The result is a pronounced texture and natural pattern. Stains are especially good for porous wood species, compositions with a long drying time are suitable for them.
2. Spraying. The shade of the stain is selected several tones lighter than desired. The liquid is applied with a spray gun, as a result of which you can get a perfectly flat surface.
3. Roller or swab. As in the case of painting the surface with a roller, you will need a special tray. Liquid stain is poured into it and then applied to the tree. No streaks or leaks. This technique is especially popular when processing the floor. To make a tampon, you will need cotton wool and a clean cloth.
4. Brush. Simple and affordable technology for everyone. It should be noted that a single layer coating will give a relatively deeper color than with other similar methods of application.

All of these wood staining tools are equivalent, so when choosing, you can be guided solely by your own preferences. Processing technology is no different from regular painting. But there is one important point: Most wood stains dry very quickly, so work quickly and carefully. Do not allow the applied layer to dry until the work is completed, otherwise this area will differ from the rest of the surface.

It is necessary to apply the stain parallel to the wood fibers, avoiding contact between the layers.

As you can see, the process is quite simple. The number of layers applied depends on the desired shade. To fix the result wooden product or the surface must be varnished.

1. What is she for?
2. Types of wood stain
3. Creating Effects
4. Work technology
5. Working with Defects

Wood stain combines the function of protecting the surface from dampness and reproduction of microflora and gives the product a rich color. However, this is more than varnish for furniture and interior items - with its help you can create a unique decoration of the room by updating a couple of wooden surfaces.

What is she for?

Wood stain does not work miracles, but it works according to a certain principle:

• Colored or colorless stain lacquer penetrates into the wood structure, creating a protective film not only above the surface, but also below it.
• Naturally lifts the fibers of the wood, highlighting the structure.

Natural shades of impregnation create an imitation of noble and unusual tree species even on the most ordinary boards, for example, ebony or oak .

Types of wood stain

Impregnations for wood are divided into types according to the base material for their manufacture.

Water

Water based stain is the most common foundation ingredient. This is the most large group impregnation. Produced in ready-made or in powder, which is dissolved in water at home.

Her virtues:

• The solution is non-toxic due to the neutral base;
• A wide range of natural shades from the lightest to deep dark will help emphasize the naturalness or deepen the tone, make the surface of the product more expressive and noble;
• Easy to apply, low consumption;
• Affordable.

A significant drawback is the ability to lift the fibers of the tree, opening the way for moisture.

The solution is to keep the surface wet for a while, then remove the raised fibers with sandpaper and then impregnate. Another method of preventing wetting is the subsequent coating of the painted layer with varnish.

In addition, the water base dries relatively long.

Alcohol stain

Aniline dye dissolved in denatured alcohol. Wood stain is also sold dry or ready-made.

Its main advantage is the layer, like alcohol, it dries quickly. The same quality can be attributed to the disadvantages: in order to obtain a uniform color, it is necessary to use an airbrush; when applied manually, alcohol impregnation often forms greasy spots.

Oil stain

Pigments dissolved in oil (White Spirit) allow you to tint wooden surfaces in all possible shades. Such a tool is convenient for use at home - the oil stain fits well, it can be applied with any tool, it evenly penetrates into the depths, the texture of the wood is not disturbed, a protective film is formed.

Acrylic and wax

Wood stain made of wax or acrylic belongs to a new generation of materials for the treatment and protection of wood surfaces. Impregnation not only forms an insulating film. Stain colors are expanded compared to other types - from natural to bright exotic. The effect of a bright colored coating with a natural wood structure is called stain.

Reception is used by many designers modern furniture – appearance fronts of cabinets made of oak or other species with an unusual color evokes an unusual feeling. The main drawback of the material is that stain is more expensive than its counterparts.

Stain with whitening effect

Not all types of wood need dark saturation, in some cases it is necessary to give a lighter and cleaner shade. For this, stains based on acids or hydrogen peroxide have been developed. With their help, bleached timber is obtained, slightly discolored. Thus, the gray surface can be prepared for subsequent painting and processing.

Creating Effects

Alcohol or water stain can create an imitation of the naturalness of the coating without obvious traces of processing. When choosing a material for protection and painting, be guided by the desired effect: choose a shade of oak, pine or ebony (as in the photo) - the interior will be instantly ennobled.

Products made of ash or oak do not have to be tinted - leave their structure and shade open by choosing the shade of this breed that is as close to nature as possible.

The properties of each type of wood are different. In order not to make a mistake when buying, pay attention to the flower palette: a composition is applied to the boards of different breeds, where you can see the final result.

Work technology

Staining a wood surface is not a complicated process, but it requires a responsible approach. In order for the varnish coating to be uniform, the consumption to be minimal, and the smear to lie evenly, it is necessary to get acquainted with the intricacies of the work.

How best to apply stain on the surface: a master class

1. Spraying is the most effective method. The coating lays down evenly, even gray wood will instantly acquire a new shade. Reduces the risk of smudges and oil marks.
2. Rubbing the stain over a piece of porous wood with a rag will help to get the effect of oak or pine even on the most ordinary piece of non-noble raw materials. The composition must be applied carefully, because quick-drying solutions should be excluded.

1. A roller or swab for applying stain is useful in case of coating small area wood. Thus, it will be possible to highlight and emphasize the cut pattern, the stain will evenly penetrate deep into the product, creating a protective screen.

1. The brush is most often used for work - the tool is easy to use, wood stains lie flat, in the chosen direction. The master can play with natural ornaments and play with existing patterns by saturating colors in certain areas.

Which method is better to use and paint - the master decides based on his skills, the type of stain and the surface of the wood. To determine which stain in a particular case - when choosing, pay attention to the instructions for the preparation, which describes the conditions for application and operation.

Basic rules for work

Often it does not matter how many layers of wood stain will be applied. The main thing is to observe the technique and take into account some of the nuances:

• It is necessary to paint the product strictly according to the fibers of the wood. So it will be possible to reduce the consumption of the solution for smudges and emphasize the pattern.
• Wood stain should be of a comfortable consistency. Non-aqueous dissolves with white spirit to the optimum density.
• How many layers to apply - the master determines depending on the desired shade and effect. Usually 2-3 layers, each of which is thoroughly dried.

Make the first layer thin - here it is important to stain gradually and evenly. The layer will create a base for subsequent applications and reduce the consumption of stain solution.

• To avoid dark areas, varnish should not be applied twice in the same place.
• When dried, water stain on wood raises the fibers. They are cleaned with a coarse cloth in the longitudinal or diagonal direction.
• Water and alcohol solutions dry out after 2-3 hours, oil solutions - after 2-3 days.

For indoor and outdoor work, the rules are the same.

Master class on surface tinting

1. Clean the wood of dirt and remove protruding fibers with sandpaper;
2. Pour the stain, pre-diluted according to the instructions, into a small tray. Cooking can be done in small batches.
3. Take the tool and, gradually picking up a solution on it, distribute the varnish over the wood.

Do not try to take a lot of paint - this increases consumption and reduces the quality of the coating.

Working with Defects

Lacquer stain lay wrong? There are several ways to fix defects. Master Class:

A streak has formed

We cover the place with varnish, which will dissolve the bottom layer. Now we clean the area with a rag. Work must be carried out immediately after a defect is discovered.

If the smudge is dry, soften it with paint thinner. The seal can also be removed with an emery or planer.

Spots

How many exactly did not remove the solution, but still stains formed? The problem may be in the wood itself - the array sometimes absorbs the solution unevenly. In this case, a planer will help. On plywood, you will have to remove all the veneer.

Non-aqueous gel impregnation is suitable for recoating. It does not penetrate into the depth of the wood, lays down evenly and dries for a long time. Its consumption is reduced due to surface distribution.

Wood is often used in country or home work. However, in his in kind it does not always look dignified, to match the surrounding objects and furniture. Under the influence of ultraviolet light, it becomes gray. Without being covered with any protective composition, wood is very hygroscopic and begins to \\\"play \\\" not only because of the moisture that has fallen on it, but even from the difference in summer and winter humidity. Therefore, wood finishing is practically a necessary procedure if you want a wooden thing to retain its consumer qualities for as long as possible. In addition, a properly finished thing has much more decorative look than in its natural. This article talks about a simple way to finish wood.

You can finish any type of wood, from birch to oak. but different breeds look different after finishing. For example, birch (not Karelian and not birch burl, but our usual birch or birch plywood) is quite homogeneous. She has no contrast transitions and streaks around the knots. Spruce and pine look quite nice, especially their \\\"near knot\\\" parts. And oak, beech, chestnut look absolutely great.

Dry before finishing wooden detail carefully polished with sandpaper (sandpaper). In this case, all movements of the skin should occur strictly along the fibers and without strong pressure. Any deep transverse risk after staining and nailing will immediately become noticeable.

After sanding, the wood must be thoroughly vacuumed to remove all microscopic dust from its fibers. After that, the part is covered with wood stain. Morilka is water and non-aqueous. Aquatic, of course, on the water. It is used quite rarely and for medium-sized parts. Non-aqueous (on a solvent) - for any. Personally, I prefer non-aqueous. It has more color range and is easier to work with, it absorbs quickly and dries quickly.

So, the prepared wood is abundantly impregnated with stain. Generally, small parts seamed by immersion in the stain. But you can’t immerse a large board or panel, so they use a regular brush. Stain is applied to the wood in excess, trying to apply so that the tree absorbs as much stain as possible, and the stain penetrates as deep as possible into the wood. After that, the parts are allowed to dry a little and proceed to the second important stage of finishing - washing.

During washing, all excess stain is washed off, which remained on the surface of the tree and was not absorbed. At the same time, the pattern of wood fibers appears sharply and its contrast is significantly enhanced. The tree becomes much more beautiful.

Washing of non-aqueous stain is carried out using a large number acetone. Use a thick large brush. In order to really remove the excess stain, and not transport it to the wood, proceed as follows. The brush is dipped into a bowl with acetone and holding the wooden part slightly at an angle (20-30 degrees) with light pressure, the brush is driven from top to bottom, as if driving off excess stain. At the other end, the part rests on the desktop and some very hygroscopic material is placed under it. I use paper napkins. They are not expensive, but they absorb moisture perfectly - that's what they are intended for.

When the brush reaches the end of the part, it slides onto these napkins and the acetone-stain mixture is immediately absorbed by the napkins. Then the brush is again dipped in acetone and the stain is washed off. And so on until the part becomes uniform, it stops washing. After that, the parts are again allowed to dry a little, now from acetone.

The third and final stage is the varnishing of the part. It is carried out in two stages. The first stage - the so-called. raising the pile. As you know, wood is very hygroscopic and readily absorbs any liquid that gets on it. At the same time, it changes its geometric dimensions - i.e. swells. Therefore, after staining and washing, it is no longer as polished as it was before the start of the finishing procedure. And you can feel it by touch by running your palm over its surface. Therefore, they raise the pile in order to further remove it by grinding.

The pile is lifted with a quick-drying furniture varnish of the NTs-222 type. This is a nitrolac, dissolves with acetone or 646th solvent. Spreading a little varnish with a wide soft brush with quick sweeping movements along the fibers cover the entire part and allow it to dry. After the varnish dries, you will feel, taking it in your hands, how rough it has become. This is the pile - small fibers of wood, lagging behind neighboring cells, began to bristle and hardened under the influence of varnish. Therefore, the part is again ground with a fine sandpaper. In this case, do not apply grinding machines, and polished only by hand.

After grinding the part, it is again carefully vacuumed and subjected to final finishing. Its type is already chosen depending on the purpose of the part, the place of operation (house - street), what the owners like (matte or glossy surface), etc. If the part is intended for home use, it is enough to cover it with another 1-2 layers of the same NTs-222 varnish and it will acquire a semi-matte surface.

In general, this method of finishing wood is quite cheap, allows you to get a fairly decorative appearance and has only one drawback. It uses quite strong-smelling materials (lacquer, acetone). Therefore, all work should be carried out either outdoors or in a well-ventilated area equipped with an exhaust hood. In addition, it must be taken into account that these are very flammable materials. Therefore, there should not be any open fire nearby.

Konstantin Timoshenko

A comment.

Sometimes, during the sanding of wood, an unpleasant scuffing occurs, and sometimes the loss of a loose piece occurs. In the vast majority of cases, these exfoliated or completely fallen off acute-angled fragments of the structural pattern are almost the most beautiful places in the entire pattern. (They are clearly visible in the photographs attached to the article) Delamination can also occur at the stage of stain drying. Normal sanding, after varnishing, is indispensable. Chips, as a rule, bend out of the plane by 1.5-2 millimeters, and even higher after piercing. Faced with such a nuisance - you should not be upset much. Just glue the capricious petal in front of further processing any means suitable for gluing wood and do not forget to press down, carefully removing the squeezed out excess. By the way, in order not to bother with glue, you can use the varnish prepared for subsequent coating. The gluing procedure is the same. After drying, lightly sand, if e! there is a need, a restored place and you can safely proceed to further processing.

In the event that the workpiece has defects (chips, cracks, traces of the vital activity of various insects or the losses described above), and the replacement, due to different reasons, impossible or undesirable (unique pattern, complex shape, for example) then it is necessary to carry out a simple restoration. To do this, it is advisable to collect and store the resulting wood dust during the grinding stage. She, a little later, will serve as a filler in the preparation of "putty". The wood is beautifully putty. But you will have to prepare the mixture for restoration work yourself. Base - preferably a colorless furniture varnish; the filler is already known and if not enough has gathered, take a homogeneous piece of material and grind it with a grinder as much as necessary; color - all the same stain, non-aqueous, of course. Or in most color layouts - ordinary iodine. Alcohol with a solvent, of course, is an unimportant union, but I did not observe rejection reactions. We take a pinch of wood powder, add a drop of varnish, stir with something! Little by little we add color, without stopping the outweighing to the desired shade. You can apply the solution (putty) with any convenient, in your opinion, tool, even for an inappropriate purpose. For example, I have chosen poster feathers of different widths. With a thin pen - it is convenient to apply the putty mass, and with a wider pen - “rub-smooth”. And do not rush to straighten the surface immediately after sanding !! This procedure must be performed only after the product has been tinted with a stain and washed, since the hardened mixture practically does not take on color. And if he does take it (you can force the mountain to move), then the result will be far from the desired one. It is very, you know, difficult to give a leveled tiny area the necessary shade, repeatedly poking it with a brush or swab, without painting the adjacent surface. And she already absorbs color with great pleasure. So you will have: it’s dark there - it’s light here, then vice versa. And wood drawing! your daub will not pull well.

Also, you should not prepare the mixture immediately for the entire scope of work, unless, of course, you have a single defect of a uniform color. Matching shades is not a quick matter, but the mixture dries - and you won’t have time to look back. Therefore, knead the "putty" exactly in the amount that is necessary to straighten one particular color fragment. At the end of the repair and after the mixture has completely hardened, very carefully rub the restored places with a “zero” and, appreciating the result, proceed to varnishing and polishing.

Dmitry Petrov.

It should be added that stains, as a rule, unfortunately, are best impregnated with soft fibers that have a lighter color, and dark fibers that have a greater density are impregnated worse. After staining, we get a definite tone, but in professional language this color is called a negative.

To prevent this from happening, before staining the surface must be primed with a solution of liquid glass on water. After drying, the surface becomes a little more old view and the pile rises. Now it all needs to be sanded a little literally and can be processed with a stain. Liquid glass has closed a little pore of light fibers and will now stain more beautifully and contrast.