Chisel for woodcarving. Wood carving tool

Main cutting tool for woodcarving are carving chisels or, as they are called, chisels.

Chisel It is a flat or semicircular steel plate, one end of which is sharpened and forms a blade, and the other is drawn pointedly in the form of a pin and is designed to fit a handle.
Carving chisels are divided according to their shape into several types: straight chisels, flat or semi-flat chisels, semicircular chisels, tassels, geismuses, cranberries, slants.
The average size of the chisels along the length (from the shoulders to the blade) varies depending on the shape and profile from 100 to 130 mm. Chisels with small profiles are shorter than chisels with larger profiles.

All chisels, of various profiles and shapes, have a gradual slight thickening from the blade to the shoulders. Such a thickening is provided for greater strength in work, so that the tool does not bend or break when working with a mallet.
Steel quality and hardening are essential for cutting tools. The chisel should be easy, sharpen well and have a durable blade. It should not quickly become blunt, bend or break out under the blow of a mallet, when working on hardwoods.
The handles (or handles) of the chisels are made of durable tough wood, usually they are turned on lathes in the form of a barrel or they are made faceted. The length of the handle is in the range of 105-120 mm, the thickness is determined depending on the profile of the chisel: a smaller profile means a thinner and shorter handle, and vice versa. Chisels of medium profiles, which have a slight difference, have the same handles.

At the shoulders of the chisel, a metal ring about 10 mm wide is put on the handle. The barrel-shaped handle is machined so that it is comfortable to hold the chisel in your hand, and therefore it is very important to determine the place of the thickening of the handle. The end of the handle is oval, for the convenience of pressing it with the palm of the hand during the carving operation. Recommended dimensions are shown in fig. 32.

Rice. 32. Carving tool: A - with a round handle, B - with a faceted handle, C - with a sharpened handle

Handles for chisels are faceted, have several shapes, but the most convenient of them is a flat octagonal one (Fig. 32-B). It, like the round one, has a thickening in order to fit comfortably on the palm of the hand when working with a cutter. Handle length size 105-130 mm. The advantage of this shape is that the tool with such handles does not roll on the workbench and does not change position from shocks during work.

Normal the average size carving chisel with a handle - from 220 to 250 mm. An exception are chisels for large decorative and volumetric carvings. Their sizes are larger than usual. There are curly handles for chisels, chiseled in the shape of a hand, it is convenient to hold them during work (Fig. 32-B), but they are not common among carvers.

Chisels straight- are needed mainly for cleaning the background in relief carving, but are also used in other cases. The canvas of a straight chisel has a front face, two side edges and a back face. On chisels with a width of more than 5 mm, longitudinal chamfers are made on the back plate. On narrower chisels, the side edges converge towards the back plate. The width of the canvas along the entire length of the chisel is the same. The thickness of narrow chisels (up to 5 mm) towards the neck is made larger (up to 8 mm), and a chisel with a width of more than 5 mm is the same along the entire length of the chisel (from 3 to 5 mm).
Chisels are flat (semi-flat). Sloping or semi-flat chisels have a large blade bend radius, but some of them approach straight chisels with the curvature of the blades. Sloping chisels in determining the size have two features - the size of the width and the size of the radius of curvature of the blade.

Chisels semicircular. Semicircular chisels have three features (Fig. 33) that determine the size of the chisels: the radius of curvature of the blade (r), the height of the sides of the blade (h). Some semicircular chisels have high sides. With these chisels, if necessary, you can make deep recesses and work with high edges of the sides. Chisels with a curved neck make it possible to make deep and steep recesses. Chisels, having a curvature of the entire canvas and resembling cranberries, are very convenient in working on high reliefs.

Rice. 33. Flat and semicircular chisels: A - with a straight neck, B - with a curved neck, C - section of chisels: 1 - flat, 2 - medium semi-flat, 3 - steep semicircular, 4 - semicircular with high sides(king). Designations: A - side height, r - bending radius

Tsarazikami called semicircular chisels with high sides, they are very similar in shape to narrow semicircular chisels. In cross section, they have a sharp bend in the canvas (Fig. 33). They are measured only by the width of the curve of the blade. The grip width of the chisel is in the range from 1 to 5 mm. Tsaraziki are intended for sampling narrow semicircular recesses, making veins and processing the transition of the background to the edge of the ornament, as well as for various small works.

Geismuses. Chisels that have the shape of a blade in the form of an angle are called geismugs. The sizes of geismus in terms of the width of the capture are quite diverse (Fig. 34-A). They serve to cut the lines of the veins. The angle formed by the canvas sharply bent along the entire length should be approximately 50-70 °. The width of each side is in the range from 5 to 15 mm.

Fig.34. Geismuses and cranberries A - geismuses, B - cranberries

Cranberries. Chisels with a very short blade of all the profiles described above, having a curved shape in the form of a hook, are called cranberries. Clucarzas work in hard-to-reach places, in places with high relief and in deep slots (Fig. 34-B). Straight cranberries (see the first image in the figure) represent an ordinary chisel with a curved blade. Reverse cranberries (see second image), essentially the same chisels, but curved at the blade in reverse direction. Concavities and bulges in recessed places are treated with such cranberries. Cranberries are mainly used for embossed carving and for cleaning the background.

Kosyachki- or, as they are often called, cutters - have two types of shapes (Fig. 35). Some of them are long, sharpened from straight chisels. The width is different, from 10-20 mm or more. The bevel angle of the blade is 15-20°. Chamfers are sharpened evenly on both sides at an angle of 18-20 °. The handles of the kosyachkov are shaped like those of all chisels.
The second joints, unlike the first, are short and have a blade length from the blade to the handle of 40-50 mm. The width of the canvas is also different, usually from 10-15 to 25-30 mm, their handles have a special shape (see Fig. 35).

Fig.35. Skewers: A - long, B - short
Skewers with short blades (pieces of iron) are mainly used when performing geometric carving, and with long canvases - when selecting the background of a relief carving.

Let me tell you a little about my carving tool.
When I started going to the wood carving club, I used the master's tool. And immediately began the dream of his own instrument.
The guy with whom I went to carving had a father who worked at some metallurgical plant and I ordered 2 semicircular chisels from him, then a friend of my brother gave me a couple more cutters, 2 knives and 2 semicircular chisels a familiar artist, 1 knife guy from the yard. Steel is a good tool, I use them now.

Then one day a plumber came to our house to repair a tap and we started talking, I told him that I was carving. And he said that he had a set of Soviet cutters at home and he wanted to give it to me) I was extremely happy and jumped to the ceiling, he went home and brought it. It was cool, they were not even sharpened!) I especially liked the knife, it was my favorite tool for a long time. Cut nice and straight. He kept his sharpness for a long time, Soviet incisors are cool incisors!

Then I had a break with carving, and there was nowhere to sharpen knives and cutters.
Then I began to look for shops and markets, tents where I could buy cutters. But did not find.
Didn't learn much about sharpening the tool I had, but it was very clumsy.
After some time, I found the page tatianka.ru on the Internet, but at that moment there were only domestic cutters and knives to choose from, and I ordered a couple of knives and chisels for myself, so my arsenal began to replenish))

I saved up money and bought myself a small set of 12 Tatyanka incisors. I like it, now I use it. I cut out a box with it. The steel is not bad, but of course it cannot be compared with Pfeil, they often need to be corrected on the skin with GOI paste and then undermined. They are only suitable for soft woods (linden, alder, maple, birch).

Then, at that time, my girlfriend (and now my wife) gave me a set of 7 knives for my birthday, I was very happy. I cut out a frame for a mirror with them), a box with a geometric pattern and a donation box.

In the Leroy Merlin store, I found cutters from the Czech company Narex and of course I could not resist and bought them. (Who seeks always finds). The cutters are good, the steel is better than Tatyanka's, but they also cost 2 times more.

When I was in Moscow on a business trip, passing through or visiting friends, I went to the Tatyanka store on Baumanskaya. Of course, I really liked the Pfeil cutters there and I bought myself a couple of knives.
They showed themselves well in work, remain sharp for a long time, cut wood well and cleanly, both soft and hard (beech, oak were cut with them).
Now I have several cutters and Pfeil knives and they are my favorite, because. this is very good tool. Their cost is from 500 rubles. (the cheapest knife) and higher, but in my opinion this is not an overpayment for the brand, but the purchase of a good and quality tool(once again this is my opinion, not everyone may agree with me, but I think so).

I also got an interesting Bahco knife. I bought it for 4 euros, not a bad price for good knife. Perfectly cuts paper and wood, both soft and hard.

I like to store incisors in fabric twists, drawers:

I also sign my incisors.

One small tip, if for some reason you do not use knives, cutters, then lubricate the cuts with any tool oil (I use WD-40) so that they do not rust.

I think that all carvers will agree with me that there are never enough cutters)))) but at the same time I am a supporter of reasonableness, there is never a lot of money, so you need to try to buy the tool that will be used and will pay for itself, and will not just lie without Affairs.
And finally, about dreams))) I want to earn money and buy myself this wonderful suitcase of the same beloved Pfeil company:

There are many others good producers both domestic and foreign who produce and sell carving tools, I wrote about my own.
I want to add links to some of the resources that I use where you can look for tools, accessories, equipment and everything you need for a carver and a good Craftsman forum.
tatianka.ru
reznoe.ru
Stameskino.ru
rubankov.ru
kalpa-vriksa.ru
forum.woodtools.ru

Thank you for your attention.

The text indicates the work performed by the cutters, then links to the articles of these works will be added.
And there will definitely be an article on sharpening knives and cutters.

The article uses photos from the web page tatianka.ru

Buy and order wooden work you can in my store

All novice carvers ask: “What tools do I need first of all?” First we need a small number of tools. Instead of buying a complete set of cutting accessories, purchase tools as you need them. Usually when you buy a set, you don't save a dime, but there are always things that you almost never need. Get the most tools best quality which you can afford; good, sharp high-carbon steel tools will last you a long time and save you money.

Knives

You will need a good knife - one that will be comfortable to work with. There are three types of knives - with a folding blade (pocket knife), with a fixed blade and knives with a replaceable blade. I prefer fixed blade knives because they are the safest. Knives also vary in blade shape and steel type.

I recommend a high carbon steel blade with a hardness of 55 to 60 RC - it will stay sharper longer than a stainless or low carbon steel blade. For finishing and shaping, I use a 4 mm thick blade and a length of 3.8 to 5.1 cm. A knife with a narrower and shorter blade better fit to work out the details. Some cutters prefer knives with interchangeable blades, because instead of sharpening the knife, it is enough to simply change the blade. Another advantage is that that the handle of such a knife can be used with small chisels.

Chisels

There are chisels different widths and curvature. Curvature is indicated by a number. The steeper the curvature, the larger the number. So, chisel number 3 is almost flat, and number 11 has a U-shape. Of course, a number 10 or 11 chisel cuts deeper and removes more wood than a number 3. On the other hand, a number 3 chisel is handy for finishing. The chisel-corner with number 12, which has a V-shape, is characterized by a wide range - from 24 to 90 degrees, but chisels with an angle of 60 to 70 degrees are most common.

When choosing a chisel, pay attention to the handle so that the tool does not roll onto the floor when you put it on the table. Otherwise, you will constantly have to repair the blade.

When choosing a chisel, also keep in mind the size and type of carving you want to make. For self made palm-sized chisels are more suitable, and for small parts you will need tools and even less. Sculptural and relief carving involves the use of standard chisels with heavy handles.

Saws

Carvers use saws of various types depending on the task, but the most commonly used bow saw ("snake").

It includes a replaceable high carbon steel blade mounted on a steel frame with a handle. A bow saw can be used to draw narrow, curved lines, although a fair amount of patience is required to prevent the blade from breaking or warping. The saw is also used to remove excess wood.

Special tools

The scraper is used for removing bark and for quick, rough removal of excess wood, as, for example, when working on furniture. The spoon knife has a double-edged round blade, ideal for making spoons, cups or masks.

Abrasives

Files and rasps remove excess wood quickly and smoothly. They differ in the nature of the surface, which can be rough, medium or relatively smooth. Tools flat, semi-circular or round shape always use with a pen. Files and rasps of the riffler type have teeth on both ends and a variety of shapes. They are used to penetrate hard-to-reach places and remove small chips. Tools with a rough surface are used for cleaning small areas.

The flexible sanding belt is useful when working on curved surfaces. Grinding cylinders as part of a hand drill or press are indispensable for final finishing. Polishing tools vary in surface texture and material nature to meet a wide range of requirements. Sandpaper should only be used at the end of the work, otherwise the abrasive particles will get stuck in the wood and your tools will quickly become dull.

electrical tools

When you start making blanks yourself, you will need a band saw. A huge selection of blades will allow you to easily make the most difficult cuts, far surpassing anything that can be done with a bow saw. An openwork saw will help to process the inner surface, but not every tree can handle it. Belt and disc sanders are good for both finishing and bark removal. Many carvers use rotary tools with a wide range of heads to work on details such as feathers. There are hand grinders and small high speed cutters. There are also at least four types of electric chisels with reciprocating motion that allow arthritis sufferers and people with tennis elbow to enjoy carving.

Strengthening devices

If you are holding the workpiece in a vise, choose a tool that does not leave marks on the workpiece (or insert some material between the workpiece and the vise). To attach the workpiece to the workbench, I often use a six-millimeter capercaillie and a wing nut. If you are a beginner, you can wear a steel wire glove to protect your hand.

I have an old friend, also a carver, who puts on a heavy leather apron when working towards the chest. When finishing or dyeing the product, you can use an awl or a dye stick.

SUPPORT

To better hold the workpiece when you cut a tree with a “snake” saw, I advise you to use a support - an ordinary board that supports the wood during sawing. Simply attach it to a workbench or table and hold the saw vertically in the V-shape as you cut the workpiece.

BENCH VICE

If you plan to do relief carving, I suggest you also make a simple bench vise. One terminal holds the vise from below in a fixed position, while the angle formed by the other two from above prevents your product or workpiece from slipping out of your hands during operation. Attach a bench vise to your work surface.

Accessories

Electric burn-out tools can be used for coloring the product, giving texture, as well as for signing the work. In this case, you will need a dust mask and a vacuum cleaner. You also need artist's tools and various brushes if you want to cover the product with paint or varnish. To transfer the pattern to the workpiece, I advise you to use tracing paper or copy. A good light source and a magnifying device are essential when performing fine detail work.

Instrument Care

You should periodically inspect your tools, wipe them with an oiled cloth so that they do not rust. Store your tools in their individual compartments or wrapped in cloth to protect them and reduce the time spent sharpening.

TOOL SHARPENING

Keep your tools sharp at all times, and pause to sharpen from time to time. All the carvers I know have developed their own dressing system; everyone found his own procedure, convenient for him personally. Some use whetstones with oil, others with water, and still others use electrical devices.

The first step is to sharpen the blade with a fine-grained abrasive, such as diamond grit or sandpaper. First, one side is processed until burrs appear on the metal, then the other. At the next stage of editing, the surface irregularities that arose at the beginning are eliminated. In conclusion, the blade should be polished to a mirror finish with a special compound, reducing friction between the blade and the wood.

How can you tell if a blade is sharp enough? Take a piece of scrap wood and run your knife across the grain. If an even mark remains, then the blade is sharp. If the fibers stick out in different sides and the mark is rough, then you need to sharpen the blade more.

REQUIRED TOOLS

cutting tools

Knife (preferably with a fixed blade)

Four straight chisels (palm size is enough)

No. 3 sloping chisel 1/2 wide (1.3 cm)

No. 7 semi-circular chisel 1/2 wide (1.3 cm) No. 11 steep chisel 1/4 wide (6 mm)

No. 12 chisel-corner 1/4 wide (6 mm)

Drawing supplies and patterning tools

Copier (MFP)

Bow saw ("snake")

Support (see above)

Drawing accessories

Pencil

Copy paper

Wood carving is a complex and exciting activity. It allows you to create unique crafts, decorate your home, make gifts to friends and acquaintances.

Also the carving will constant source positive emotions, and for some - even generate income. For children, this hobby will become in a great way take free time and develop artistic thinking.

Most often, woodcarving tools are made. This happens for three reasons:

• Firstly, it is rare to find a good cutter on sale.
• Secondly, many people cannot afford it, especially teenagers and children who are fond of carving. Most often, cutters are sold in sets, have a high price, and half of them are unlikely to ever be needed.
• Finally, the third reason is that experienced carvers prefer to make a tool “for themselves”.

DIY wood carving tools (drawings) can be divided into three types - knives, chisels and engravers.

A knife is a tool that works with a straight or curved cutting edge.

Cutting wood occurs under a force directed mainly across the axis.

A carving chisel is a tool during which the force is directed along the axis, according to the principle of a conventional carpentry chisel.

A chisel is a tool that is a kind of chisel. First, it crashes into the wood, and then a small layer of wood is “teared off” with the skillful movement of the carver. Shtihely include all kinds of cranberries - special tool, popular in Transcarpathian woodcarving.

Starting with a simple one - a cutter for geometric threads

Geometric thread is the simplest type of thread.

She will be the best choice if you just want to try your hand at carving .

Despite its apparent simplicity, it allows you to create drawings with a "three-dimensional" effect.

It is also a national art craft in Russia, Karelia and Finland.

Geometric carving does not require a lot of "hardness" of the hands, such as carving with a chisel. It consists of simple elements- Pegs and triangles.

Making a woodcarving tool with your own hands is easier than for any other. Objectively, this is the only tool that can be made at home without the use of forging.

The cutter for geometric carving is a knife. Outwardly, it looks a bit like a leather shoe knife with an oblique blade, but the similarities end there. The main difference is the width of the blade and the cutting angle of the knife.

The width of the cutter for geometric carving should be about 2 cm, however, this will depend on the size of the pegs that you intend to cut.

The angle of the "bevel" of the cutter should be quite steep, almost straight - from 80 to 70 degrees. It is undesirable to work with a too “sharp” nose - the cutter during such work will close the drawing and it will not be visible what you are doing. In addition, at too large angles, the tip of the cutter will constantly break during awkward movements.

blade material

Most the best way- make a cutter forged from a bar.

The part of the blade protruding from the handle must be forged from a round section into a flat knife.

It will cover the drawing less when .

Unfortunately, most carvers do not have access to a forge and do not have the forging skill.

For them, it will be optimal to make a tool for woodcarving with your own hands from an old blade of a hacksaw for metal.

The canvas is made of R6M5 steel, sometimes carbon steel. It has a width of 25 ... 50 mm and a thickness of 2 to 5 mm. If possible, take a blade 25 mm wide and 3 mm thick, it is best suited for the cutter.

How to cut the canvas of the right size and at the right angle? After all, it is hardened! You don't need to cut anything. Clamp the blade firmly in a vise under the desired one.

Then, with a hammer blow, simply break off the blade as needed - the break in the vast majority of cases will occur along the clamping line of the vise jaws.

Then correct the cut line on an electric sharpener and pre-sharpen the cutter. The blade is fixed in the handle with the help of cloves that used to cut metal. This is best done by drilling holes and driving in rivets, but due to the hardness of the material, it will be extremely inconvenient to drill it.

Perhaps you will find another, more suitable one. The main thing is that it should be made of high-quality steel. Some make incisors by grinding from files or from surgical instruments, from the blade of knives for stripping wires. Excellent cutters come from broken ones. disc cutters for metal from steel R18. All of these methods are good.

About homemade wood tools - on the video:

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Cutting wood materials, even in the age of composites and carbon fiber, continues to be one of the most common processing operations. The very demand for wood is determined by a combination of optimal for wide application technical and physical qualities, original texture and environmental friendliness. The most common tool for such processing is a manual woodcarving chisel. It is affordable, practical in content and effective in execution. challenging tasks cutting. Even mechanized and automatic machines are not able to compete in terms of the quality of the result with the author's handicrafts.

Tool device

The chisel has simple design, which is formed by a handle, a shank mount for the working part and a blade. Depending on the sharpening parameters and its direction, the master can make recesses, holes and grooves in the solid wood. In this case, each of the parts of the tool can have a different design, which determines the type of design. In terms of working qualities, it is worth noting the similarity of chisels and woodcarving chisels, but they have a fundamental difference in providing effort. A distinctive feature of chisels is precisely manual application. That is, the master independently manages the workflow, solving the task. In turn, the cutters can have an almost identical blade, but such elements are used in combination with machine tools as a tool.

Specifications

The main parameter of the chisel is the width. Depending on the model, it can vary from 4 to 50 mm. When choosing a tool, it should be taken into account that a wide cutting area is more suitable for rough removal of the surface layer at great depths. In fact, this is a type of planing processing. The narrow functional part is more suitable for delicate operations - for example, to perform curly cutting, relief removal and the formation of precise patterns. Also, a chisel for wood carving can be made of different materials. As for the blade, it is often made on the basis of hardened or tool steel. The handle can be wooden or plastic. Professional Models They also have additions in the form of rubberized pads that increase the tenacity and physical ergonomics of the tool.

Features of a flat chisel

Name this species chisels gave a flat blade shape. It most often has a one-sided sharpening, which makes it easy to penetrate into the array, carefully removing the unnecessary layer. As a rule, with the help of such models, planing operations, creating grooves and rectangular recesses are performed. The average blade width of a flat chisel is 20-25 mm, but there are also narrow modifications of 8-10 mm, which are designed to form a thin groove or recess. In contrast, a flat wood carving chisel with a width of more than 20 mm is optimally suited for eliminating upper layers, cutting large grooves and aligning large workpieces. In a sense, such structures are similar in functionality to a planer, but the mechanism of force in the workflow is different.

Features of a semicircular chisel

Models of this type, respectively, have a semicircular section of the working part. They are also called radius and semi-flat. This type of chisel in terms of functionality can be called universal, for which professional wood carvers appreciate it. In particular, it is used in the process of planing, forming complex parts from an array, removing longitudinal chamfers, making recesses and holes. different forms. At the same time, semicircular chisels for woodcarving are rarely used to remove thick layers. Usually, in the processing of large workpieces, primary finishing is carried out with a flat chisel to optimal shapes, with which it is convenient to work with a radius tool. An important design feature is a small cutting part - again, when compared with flat devices. On average, it varies from 6 to 15 mm. At the same time, the blade itself is thinner than that of traditional chisels. It is this feature that allows for fine processing.

Chisel as a kind of chisel

Externally, the chisel does not fundamentally differ from the chisel. It has the same components, but the dimensions of this instrument are larger. This difference also determined the purpose of the tool. The chisel can act as a multifunctional cutter, but its main task is to gouge an unnecessary array. This operation is often used in the processing of hard rocks, when a conventional chisel is ineffective. According to the power potential, the chisel-chisel resembles a chisel. By the way, in this group there are also canvases with square sections, which makes it possible to produce a more thorough mechanical effect. And if an ordinary chisel for wood carving often requires soft pressure manipulations, then a large chisel works according to the percussion principle. In addition, you can use some models of this type of chisel in installation operations with tiles, metal and even stone. The characteristics of the metal and the design of some modifications allow this.

Chisel sets

To fully ensure the work of cutting wood blanks, it is recommended to purchase sets. As a rule, they provide several diverse versions of chisels with different characteristics, focused on special operations from rough removal of excess layers, stripping and gouging to finishing curly cutting. At the same time, there are kits that fully provide only a specific operation - planing, chamfering or grooving. different size. For example, a typical set of chisels for wood carving of a classic flat shape can include 4-6 models of different sizes. With the help of this kit, the most common carpentry operations in the household sector are performed. However, it is desirable for a professional carver with an artistic orientation to have several tool kits in the arsenal. different types, shapes and sizes.

Before work activities, a so-called rendering should be performed. This is a contour that is applied with a pencil and reflects the area where excess material is removed. Then, along the outlined lines, it is desirable to make recesses construction knife- this is required so that the contours are preserved in the process of work and are not erased. Also, before work, you should prepare the tool itself. If necessary, the blade is adjusted. But it is important to keep in mind that high-quality sharpening of wood carving chisels can only be done on a grinding machine provided with the appropriate equipment. These are usually hard abrasives, the most effective of which are diamond wheels. In the course of direct working operations, one should carefully press on the end of the handle with one hand, and with the other, maintain the correct direction of mechanical action. For the initial rough removal, it is worth using a mallet or hammer to provide a higher push pressure.

Is it possible to make a chisel with your own hands?

The simple design of the tool makes it possible to make it yourself. The main task in this event is to decide on a suitable blank for the canvas and how it is processed. As a basis, you can take an unnecessary part from a sawmill or segments from other saws that were designed to work with metal. The highest quality - carbon chisels for woodcarving. It will not be easy to process the basis of such a workpiece with your own hands, and the old saw blade can be cut according to the right size an ordinary grinder. With its help, the cutting end is edited. For the handle, you can use two small bars, on one of which a recess is formed for fixing the metal workpiece - a narrow shank must be thought out in advance. The bars are reduced and glued with PVA. For greater reliability, they can be fastened with a clamp.