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Often, when repairing or installing various wooden products You need to drill a perfectly round hole. In this article we will try to highlight all the ways in which such a hole can be cut. Options will be considered with the use of special tools, as well as without them.
How to cut plywood
A hacksaw with a very narrow blade, a jigsaw, a drill saw and a round file are those hand tools, which can be cut along a curve.
It is the narrow blade that provides the hacksaw with maneuverability, but for the same reason it is extremely difficult to guide. It is necessary to have a firm hand and an attentive eye in order to prevent deviations from the markup. At the same time, do not try to work quickly. On the contrary, it is better to advance in small jerks. This will help you more confidently hold the handle of the saw and guide it exactly along the given line.
It is better to cut small round or oval holes and "narrow" curves with the help of special tools - a drill saw and a round file, which can also be used to clean rounding.
However, the most suitable tool for cutting rounded parts and holes is to recognize an electric saw. Its advantage is not only that it saves time and effort. The included set of interchangeable blades with different teeth allows you to choose a blade for sawing almost any type of workpiece, whether it is wood, plywood or chipboard. In other words, the electric saw can rightfully be called a universal tool.
Round corners of furniture
blow on sharp corner tables can even get hurt. Therefore, we recommend cutting corners where possible. For homemade furniture, they must be rounded from the very beginning.
Cutting circles and curved lines is no more difficult than making a completely straight cut on a workpiece, but on one condition: you have right tool and you are good at it.
Mark drop-down parts
It may happen that the holes that you drilled to insert a narrow blade of a manual or electric saw will be in useful areas. To avoid such errors, you should mark all the drop-out parts of the workpiece with hatching.
What is suitable for the template
You can make a circle on the workpiece not only with a compass. For this purpose, any object of a similar shape will do. It can be a saucepan, a plate, a cup or a bowl. However, when undertaking work related to the repair of furniture or some piece of furniture, calculate in advance the need for details of rounded contours or with round holes. It may be sufficient to make only minor changes to the design.
Instead of a compass
A school compass can also be useful in a home workshop, but its radius of action is small. And if you need to draw a circle of large diameter?
An easy way is to do it with string, a nail and a pencil. The nail is carefully driven into the workpiece, the rope is fixed on it at one end, and the pin is fixed at the other end. The length of the rope determines the radius of the circle being drawn. The only condition is that the rope must be taut along the entire path of the pencil. Then the distance from the center (nail) to the circumference in all sections of the markup will be the same.
Strip of cardboard or slats
No less simple, but more reliable way- use a strip of cardboard instead of a rope or, even better, a wooden plank. Drill two holes in this bar (strip) - one, smaller, for a nail, the other, larger, for a pencil. The distance between their tips should correspond to the radius of the desired circle. It remains only to install a nail in the right place and turn the bar around the axis.
Two sharpened nails and a wooden plank or a strip of thick cardboard can replace the compass.
How to draw ellipses
An ellipse is a rather complicated shape, but to draw it on paper, you only need two buttons, a piece of string and a sharpened pencil.
Fix two buttons on the surface of the workpiece at a certain distance from each other. Take a piece of string, tie both ends in a knot and hook the string around the button heads. Now draw a line with a pencil that the stretched rope allows you to describe. You can change the shape of the ellipse as you wish.
The distance between the two focal points of the ellipse is indicated by buttons. If you lead a pencil within the boundaries allotted to it by a rope, then an ellipse outline will appear on paper.
The shape of the ellipse can be larger or smaller, thicker or narrower, depending on the distance between the buttons and the length of the rope.
Templates
Glasses, cups, plates, pots or baking dishes - in any household there are many items round shape, which can be used to mark the circle. If you are making something and decide to give your product a rounded shape, then first look to see if there is a suitable template among the household utensils. To be sure, select a few items and take them to the workshop. There you can immediately try them on the workpiece and determine what is most suitable. After some practice, you will be able to make rounded lines from several round objects with different radii. Arcs of a circle can be drawn sequentially, or you can draw bridges-transitions between individual arcs.
preliminary drawing
Before attempting to draw a curve on a blank, design it on a large piece of paper or a piece of corrugated cardboard. Only after a satisfactory result has been achieved in all positions, can you cut out a template from paper and mark it on the workpiece.
You can draw circles and fragments of a circle using a cup or plate, simply tracing them with a pencil.
Sink insert according to the template
Washing is one of essential elements kitchen equipment. If you decide to embed the sink into the countertop of the kitchen worktop yourself, then the first thing to do is to prepare an exact template.
First, transfer the outer contour of the sink onto a thick sheet of paper. Next, measure the width of its sides, with which it will rest on the countertop. Usually it is 2-3 cm. Now step back from the outline drawn on the paper, inward to the width of the rim and draw a parallel line. This will be the cutting line.
When marking, make sure that the position on the plate of the template itself is correct. Of course, if all the corners of the shell are symmetrical, then nothing terrible will happen if it turns out to be, according to the markup, as if in a mirror image. But if the shell is trapezoid and the roundings at the front corners are different from the roundings at the back, then in no case confuse the front and back.
In a similar pattern, make templates and cut holes for wall lights or for a speaker mounted on wooden panels.
The line drawn around the sink is auxiliary. The second, drawn parallel closer to the center, is the sawing line.
electric hacksaw
If you need to cut a rounded part and saw through a round hole in the workpiece, then an electric saw is the most suitable tool. With its help, you will save time and effort, since such a saw has great advantages over a manual one. So, the blade of the electric cutter is narrower, which provides increased maneuverability. Further, it has interchangeable blades with different teeth, which allows you to process workpieces of any type, that is, wood, plywood, chipboard (it is no coincidence that the tool is also called a jigsaw).
To cut a section inside the workpiece, a hole is first drilled for a hand saw. But if you have an electric saw, then this is not necessary. The tool is brought to the workpiece with a slight forward inclination and is turned on in this position. The saw cuts the hole itself. Just do not put too much pressure on the body - this can lead to breakage of the saw blade.
Lead in a circle
This device, simple in design, makes it much easier to cut round holes or arcs. It is enough to mark the center of the circle on the workpiece, fix the fixture at the mark and connect the rod coming from it with the electric saw. The divisions on the rod help to set the saw blade at the distance from the center of the circle, which is necessary. As a result, without preliminary marking, you can cut a circle or saw through an arc with a radius of 5 to 20 cm.
The device (more precisely, its “sole”) is attached to the surface of the workpiece with screws. They must be well tightened. If the mount is not rigid, starts to hang out, then an even circle will not work.
Suitable for lefties too
Left-handers can also use the device, since the guide rod is attached to the movable unit both on the left and on the right. So saw at your own discretion - clockwise or counterclockwise.
Using such a device, it is possible to cut a round hole in the workpiece with a diameter of 10 to 40 cm without preliminary marking.
jigsaw
When cutting holes or curves in small workpieces, sometimes a jigsaw is indispensable. Interchangeable blades with teeth of different shape and arrangement allow you to work with wood of various densities. However, it should be borne in mind that the depth of cut is limited by the arc of the jigsaw, that is, the saw blade will not be able to move further than 30 cm from the edge of the workpiece.
Very thin, narrow saw blades can be easily damaged if the jigsaw is not used properly. It is necessary to drive the saw with neat, methodical movements. The main thing is to prevent the canvas from skewing. Otherwise, small and light workpieces will begin to move with the saw, which may eventually cause the blade to burst.
The thinnest jigsaw blade will “master” the narrowest curve, but only in small workpieces, since the advancement of the blade is limited by the jigsaw arc.
Boring saw
Neither a manual nor an electric saw will help if you need to cut a small hole in the workpiece - less than 10 cm in diameter. A jigsaw can also be useless if the workpiece is large. In this case, the most suitable tool is a drill saw. With its tip, it bites into a tree like a drill and thus makes a “starting” hole for further cutting. Outwardly, the saw is similar to a round file, with the difference that its core goes around the cutting edge in a spiral.
Drill saws are available with interchangeable nozzles of various diameters, designed for processing both softwood and hardwood, as well as a variety of materials from it.
The working body of a drill saw is a metal rod with a cutting edge, like a gimlet, and a cutting edge that goes around the rod in a spiral.
This is what the narrowest of hand saws looks like. Thanks to the fastening unit, the blades in the hacksaw can be changed depending on the nature of the material being processed.
Drill nozzle
One of the most popular and convenient options hole cutting is a special nozzle on the drill. It is made in the form of a crown crest and has a rounded shape. With this nozzle, holes are cut quickly and they are quite even.
hole drill bit
Nozzles come in different diameters, which allows you to cut a hole of the required diameter. If you have already prepared a hole, we can advise you to try yourself in options trading.
Drill
Cut out big hole You can also use a drill. To do this, it is necessary to pre-mark the contour of the drilled hole. Next, with a small drill, drill through holes along the contour prepared in advance. Next, with a jigsaw or a very sharp knife, we cut off the holes, thereby connecting the holes. After that, you can smooth the circle with the help of skins of various grain sizes.
Chisel
Cut out required hole you can also use a chisel. It is enough to remove the wood along the contour layer by layer. This option is the least suitable for interior design. The hole must be even, which cannot be achieved using improvised and unsuitable materials. The best option will be the application of the crown on the drill. The hole is smooth and has smooth edges.
Thus, summing up, it becomes clear that you need to choose a tool for cutting a hole based on your goals. If you need a high-quality cut, then you can not do without a special tool.
Everywhere where the walls of drywall boards, it becomes necessary to make one or more holes in them.
The most common case is the installation of a cylindrical box for a socket or switch, ceiling (and not only) lights or fuse boxes.
That is why it is important to learn how to make such holes correctly, and not just know.
To make the finished hole even and beautiful, and the process itself does not take a lot of time, you need to prepare necessary tools and know how to use them.
If you plan to make holes in the old one, and you don’t know anything about the cabling and piping scheme, use a metal detector so as not to cut the electrical wiring or anything else important.
Cutting round holes
To create round holes, you can use special manual files for drywall if the diameter of the hole is large (for example, about 15 cm) or it can be special nozzles for a drill (see photo).
Necessary tools and materials:
- Roulette or ruler;
- Pencil;
- Compasses (for large holes);
- Square;
- Drywall file or drill with a nozzle.
Using the Drill Attachment
With this tool, you can make a hole in a matter of seconds. You only need to select the desired diameter of the saw (the rest must be removed from the mount) and accurately determine the location of the center of the future hole.
Note: In hardware stores you can buy drill bits with saws from 2.5 to 15 cm.
Before cutting a hole in drywall, determine its intended location. Accurate measurements in this case no less important than the accuracy of the drilling itself. If it's a new drywall slab, you'll have an easier time making the hole without damaging the plumbing (described above).
Using a square and a ruler or tape measure, measure the desired distance from the bottom edge of the plate to the center of the future hole. Place a dot here. This will be the height at which the center of the future hole will be placed.
Attach the ruler at the level of the dot that you applied in the previous step. Now measure the desired distance from the side edge of the plate.
Mark the center of the hole with a cross so as not to make mistakes in the designations. Before drilling, make sure once again that everything is measured correctly.
If you plan to make a hole larger than 15 cm in diameter with a drywall hand file, you should draw a circle of the desired diameter with a compass.
If you plan to use a drill to drill a hole, choose a model with adjustable rotation speed and a special nozzle (see photo).
Set your drill to medium speed. Start drilling with a nozzle drill in the place indicated by a cross. Hold the drill strictly perpendicular to the surface of the plate and try not to move it to the sides. To do this, use the overhead handle.
As the bit sinks into the slab and the saw gets closer to it, increase the speed of the bit. The saw will cut a hole in the drywall slab very quickly.
Note: A saw at high speeds creates a lot of dust, so use safety glasses and a respirator in the process. The floor can be covered, for example, with old newspapers.
Please note that the circle you cut out will either fall down or remain on the drill nozzle.
Carefully remove all plaster dust and cardboard crumbs with a broom or vacuum cleaner.
Round hole done!
Rectangular holes
If you plan to make a rectangular hole on old wall, use a narrow drywall saw. Don't forget about possible wires behind the wall. On new stoves, it is most convenient to use an electric jigsaw.
Required tools:
- Construction knife;
- Square;
- Pencil;
- Roulette;
- Narrow hacksaw or jigsaw;
- Drill with a drill.
A successful end result depends on correct measurements and accurate cuts. Using a square and a ruler (roulette), mark the location of the right and left sides of the rectangle - the distance from the beginning and end of the future hole to one edge of the plate.
Draw the length of each side of the future hole on the right distance from the other side of the plate.
Note: Measure and check at least twice for correct measurements and drawing.
Connect the ends of the drawn lines, creating a rectangle or square.
Now take a drill with a large drill bit and drill 4 holes in the center of each drawn line, in the inner area of the rectangle. This will make it possible to insert a hacksaw or a jigsaw blade (see photo).
Note: Make holes in the drywall as close as possible to the lines of the rectangle. This will make it easier to cut along the drawn line.
Remove crumbs after drilling holes with a broom or vacuum cleaner.
Turn the drywall sheet face up. Secure it so it doesn't move with cutting tool. Insert a jigsaw or a narrow hacksaw into one of the holes.
Start sawing by holding the tool firmly perpendicular to the plane of the slab. Move strictly along the line.
It is almost impossible to make a neat rectangular hole by continuously moving around the perimeter of the rectangle. Therefore, you made four holes with a drill. When you reach the corner of the rectangle, stop sawing and move the blade to the next hole.
Note: During operation there will be a lot of dust - use protective equipment.
Don't rush, cut slowly but carefully. You should get approximately the same hole as in the photo.
If the holes you made look like bullet holes, like in an action movie, read these tips to avoid disappointment in future work.
1. Choosing the right drill
Conventional twist drills are inexpensive. They are considered universal and are designed for drilling wood, metal and plastic. As a rule, their tips are sharpened at a 118° angle for most applications.
But because of this obtuse angle the drill bit can deviate to the side at the beginning and tear out the fibers of the wood at the exit, so leave such drills for plastic and metal, as well as for holes with a diameter of less than 3 mm in wood (thin drills have these shortcomings less pronounced). For holes with a diameter of 3 to 13 mm, choose center point drills designed specifically for wood. The tip of such a drill does not bark him to go to the side at the beginning of drilling, and the side cutting protrusions (the so-called undercutters) help to reduce chipping.
To make holes with a diameter of more than 13 mm, use Forster drills. Like center point drills, they have a pilot tip in the middle and cut very cleanly. Forster drills with a serrated cutting rim work much more aggressively, but the result of their work is no worse. Using such drills, you should reduce the feed and securely fix the workpiece with clamps.
2. Support the workpiece from the back
Regardless of the type of drill, when the metal passes through the wood, the unsupported wood fibers on the back of the workpiece are torn and chips are formed at the exit. Therefore, do not forget to support the reverse side of the material with trim
boards. The retaining cut supports the fibers at the point of exit of the drill and prevents a sharp increase in feed at the end. Making holes in drilling machine, simply place the cut under the workpiece, and when using an electric drill, fix it with clamps. If at the beginning of drilling the fibers around the hole rise or small chips form, stick masking tape on the surface, and then mark the center and start drilling.
3. Drill from both sides
If the location of the hole makes it difficult to install a retaining trim (for example, when drilling holes for wires in the back of a cabinet), counter-drilling will help when the hole is made with opposite sides so that there are no chips on the edges.
To make neat holes of different diameters, you need all three types of drills - twist, center point and Forstner.
Make a through hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm, which will guide the Forstner drill or a drill with a central point to the middle of the thickness of the part.
Continue drilling from the reverse side by inserting the tip of the drill into the pilot hole again. The two large holes should meet in the middle.
On a note:
We cut without chips
At the exit of the material, the tooth of the saw blade or cutter often forms chips - in wood, plywood or chipboard. The most common way to deal with this phenomenon is to have the cutting tooth come out of the material inside the slot. For example, if you move the workpiece along the rotation of the disk. But it is absolutely impossible to choose grooves to the full depth in this way. The energy of the rotating cutter is enough to snatch the workpiece from the hands. After that, it will fly with great speed in the direction of rotation. The consequences can be the most unpredictable!
Nevertheless, this principle is used in some machines for cutting chipboard. Only in them, the disk, which rotates in the direction of the material feed, makes only a shallow incision. During its formation, the impact of the scoring disc on the part is negligible, so the work is safe. Behind the scoring disc is the main working disc, which rotates, as it should be, towards the feed of the part. The blade cuts the material cleanly, without chips, because the already selected shallow groove is used (the cutting tooth comes out of the material inside the groove). I use this principle in my work. For those who decide to try my method, I want to remind you that a milling machine installed in a table is a tool of increased danger. And when working with it, it is necessary to strictly follow the safety rules - use protective screens and clamps and not allow the recommended feed rate of the workpiece and the speed of the cutter to be exceeded. The table should be free from foreign objects and well lit.
1. If you put groove cutter on the milling cutter and skip the workpiece, there will definitely be chips!
2. Therefore, first I fix the plywood overlay to the guide milling table so that the cutter protrudes only 2 mm beyond the surface of the lining. And I skip parts in the direction of rotation of the cutter. This results in a shallow groove without chips.
3. Then I remove the overlay - now the cutter protrudes to a given depth. And I skip the workpieces, as expected, towards the rotating cutter.
4. There are no chips!
Industry furniture production provides a choice great amount various furniture for the kitchen. Sometimes a dish sink is offered separately, and is installed by the buyer himself. This does not require any special knowledge and skills.
The tool in order to properly make a hole, you need the simplest. The question of how to cut a countertop for a sink is not very difficult. However, if certain installation requirements are not followed, the installed equipment can be damaged.
The sequence and manipulations carried out are similar to cutting a hole in a chipboard.
The tool in order to properly make a hole, you need the simplest.
It is better to do this outdoors, as there will be a lot of dust in the sawing process.
Relative to the level of the work surface, the sink can be installed in the following ways.
- Below the table top. This arrangement looks very impressive, but additionally requires the use of a special tool. The sink itself must have a certain shape. It is fastened in this case from below, with special fasteners. They are usually sold as a set. The open end must be impregnated with a water-repellent agent. However, it must be of sufficient thickness.
- On the same level. In this position, it is very important to correctly make the desired recess, equal to the thickness of the side. It must be perfect around the entire perimeter of the sink to be installed.
- Above table top. The tool for this type of installation needs the simplest. Special efforts are not required for this installation.
You will need to wear protective gloves on your hands, and protect your face with a special transparent shield-mask.
Sometimes a dish sink is offered separately, and is installed by the buyer himself.
Sealant is used to prevent moisture from getting into the places where the sink and countertop come into contact. Water can severely damage chipboard. For different surfaces its own sealant is intended. When working with artificial stone only silicone is used. For wood and plastic, sealants containing alcohol are more often used.
If a decision is made to cut a hole in the countertop for a sink on your own, then you will need a special tool - a “grinder” with a diamond wheel.
The use of a sealant not only prevents unwanted water intrusion. This also serves as additional strength to the connection.
If the sink is purchased separately and its installation is required, it is advisable to entrust this work to professionals.
Required tools:
- electric drill
- electric jigsaw
- drill for wood with a diameter of 10 mm.
- set of wrenches
- brush
- wrench
- rasp
- screwdriver
Before cutting a hole for the sink in the countertop, the required hole is marked. To do this, a template is made from cardboard or thick paper. Some manufacturers and manufacturers of sinks include a template with the product itself. If the installation option on the countertop was chosen and the sides are wide enough, you can mark up without a template. For this, the sink is used as a template. It is applied to the plane with its upper surface and outlined along the contour with a marker or pencil. For ease of installation, it is advisable to remove the countertop. Having retreated inward 0.5 - 1 cm from the drawn line, a working contour is drawn, along which a cut is made.
It will look more solid, but it will be more difficult to mount a sink into it on your own.
Having marked the cut line, the template is removed and you can start the process of cutting out the place for washing. The drill drills a place for sawing an electric jigsaw, with a diameter of about 10 mm. For a rectangular or triangular sink, holes are made in all corners. If the product has a round or oval shape, one will be enough for work.
It is not difficult to install a sink into a wood or chipboard countertop, having the required tools and the simplest skills in handling it.
The hole and cut are made from the side of the laminate, this will prevent it from chipping. With a jigsaw, carefully cut out the required hole along the drawn contour. An electric jigsaw must be pressed firmly against the surface. The saw blade should go exactly at a right angle.
The sink is covered with a sealing tape supplied with the product.
When performing this work, the inner sawn part should be supported. Or position the countertop so that when the sawing is completed, this part does not fall. With a sharp separation of the remaining and removed part, the laminated coating may crack. Or part of the chipboard will break off.
You can use a drill with a special drill - a furniture crown, just immediately take such a drill of the required diameter.
If there is no place for such an arrangement, or the countertop has not been removed, use construction tape. Sawing is done in this case with stops. A 10-15 cm cut is made, which is then glued with adhesive tape on both sides.
A drain is mounted to the bowl and, if provided for by the design, a mixer (water tap).
After the sawing is completed, the sink is preliminarily tried on. It should enter freely, but the gap should not be large. If it fits too tightly, widen the installation site with a rasp or jigsaw.
Having marked the cut line, the template is removed and you can start the process of cutting out the place for washing.
Now you should carefully “sand” the inner end, to which the sink will adjoin. It's done sandpaper with fine grain. The resulting dust is removed, and a thin layer of sealant is applied to the place of contact with a brush.
For ease of installation, it is advisable to remove the countertop.
Installation of a sink and connection of communications
A drain is mounted to the bowl and, if provided for by the design, a mixer (water tap). All gaskets are installed in the correct sequence. Usually, the layout of the gaskets is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging of the faucet and drain siphon. Threaded connections stretch well wrenches or, if necessary, with a wrench.
When buying kitchen furniture with such a surface, it is desirable to have already ready product, which will require only connection to the water supply and sewerage system.
If there are no holes for water supply and sewerage in the structure on which the installation is planned, they should be cut out. They are done in the same way as for washing. drilled through and electric jigsaw cut the desired size opening. You can use a drill with a special drill - a furniture crown, just immediately take such a drill of the required diameter.
For this, the sink is used as a template.
The sink is covered with a sealing tape supplied with the product. A small gap is left from the edge, which is subsequently filled with sealant. Fixings are being installed.
Some manufacturers and manufacturers of sinks include a template with the product itself.
Re-apply the sealant to the contact points and allow it to dry slightly, 2-3 minutes. Install the product in place and stretch the fasteners. Fix the tabletop together with it in its place and connect the water hoses. Connect drain. Once again, go through the joints with sealant, the excess must be removed.
Before cutting a hole for the sink in the countertop, the required hole is marked.
Installation of a sink in a structure made of other materials
It is not difficult to install a sink into a wood or chipboard countertop, having the required tools and the simplest skills in handling it. More durable will be a countertop made of artificial or natural stone. It will look more solid, but it will be more difficult to mount a sink into it on your own.
The use of a sealant not only prevents unwanted water intrusion
When buying kitchen furniture with such a surface, it is desirable to have a finished product that will only require connection to the water supply and sewerage system.
For wood and plastic, sealants containing alcohol are more often used.
If the sink is purchased separately and its installation is required, it is advisable to entrust this work to professionals. In the stone processing workshop, craftsmen will perform the required work without damaging the surface. To do this, they have the appropriate skills and have the entire set of necessary tools.
For different surfaces, a different sealant is intended.
If a decision is made to cut a hole in the countertop for a sink on your own, then you will need a special tool - a “grinder” with a diamond wheel. Great care is required when using this tool. You will need to wear protective gloves on your hands, and protect your face with a special transparent shield-mask.
Sealant is used to prevent moisture from getting into the places where the sink and countertop come into contact.
It is better to do this outdoors, as there will be a lot of dust in the sawing process. The sequence and manipulations carried out are similar to cutting a hole in a chipboard.
The place for the cutout is selected taking into account minimum distance for draining water into the sewer and connecting the water supply.
VIDEO: Installation of washing video. Insert sink into countertop.
The main fastener in the assembly of furniture is confirmat. It is screwed in with a pre-drilled hole. It is the drilling of assembly holes in chipboard for confirmations that we will consider in this article.
To assemble chipboard parts, we need:
- screwdriver
- Bat for confirmations
- Ruler or tape measure
- Pencil and awl
Hole depth and width
When usually used confirmat size 6.4 * 50. Because the thread diameter is 6.4 mm, and the confirmatory body diameter is 4.4 mm, then for high-quality fastening parts, the diameter of the hole should be in the range of 4.5-5 mm and a depth of at least 50 mm.
If the thickness of the hole is more than the specified one, the confirmation will not hold the parts well, if it is less, it can break the chipboard with its thickness.
For drilling, a confirmatory drill with a diameter of 4.5 mm is used, which is equipped with an additional head for drilling an enlarged hole for the neck of the confirmate, which also makes a countersink for its head.
Of course, you can also use conventional drill with a diameter of 5 mm, but for high-quality fastening in the hole, you will additionally need to make space for the confirmant's neck and his hat.
To perfectly fasten two parts, it is necessary to mark the places of their attachment as accurately as possible.
On the part that will be superimposed on the end (the one on which there will be a through hole), you need to make two measurements - along the length (usually 5-10 cm) and from the edge - exactly 8 mm (this is if the plate thickness is 16 mm).
On the part that lies perpendicularly, we mark the drilling point at the end. Here you need to maintain the same distance in length (5-10 cm from the beginning), and in width - strictly in the center (8 mm from the edge).
Marking should be done as accurately as possible, especially along the length, because. if the layout is incorrect, your parts may have extra gaps or protrusions when docking.
It is better to make a through hole in the first part, attach it to the second one - and immediately mark the place of drilling at the end of the second part with a drill. And then, separately already, calmly drill a hole.
We make a hole at a distance of 8 mm from the edge.
The drill must ALWAYS be held strictly perpendicular to the surface.
Before you make a through hole, place a piece of unnecessary chipboard under the part. This will prevent chipping on the back.
When the through hole is made, to drill holes for the neck and the cap of the confirmation, the part can be drilled on the fly.
The main rule is that when drilling at the end, the drill must be strictly perpendicular to the end of the part. If you don't hold the drill straight, the drill may go sideways and come out, ruining the part.
When drilling, you need to pull out the drill several times so that chips do not clog in the hole.
This option is considered the most accurate and, moreover, the fastest. But in order to make a hole in two parts at the same time, you will need to fix them before drilling. This may require special clamps, clamps and other devices.
Hole drilling accessories
In order not to mark 8 mm from the edge both in the layer and on the end each time, you can use special device Which, by the way, is easy to do yourself.
It is a kind of wooden template with a metal sleeve for the drill inside.
It looks like this, see the photo:
And this is more professional stuff:
Watch a short video on precise drilling of holes in chipboard for confirmations and assembly of furniture parts:
Dowel drilling
The hole for the dowels is made with an 8 mm drill. Also, in order not to drill through the part, it is advisable to equip it with a depth gauge.
At the end, we drill with the same drill to a depth of 20 mm. Do not forget that during any work, the drill must be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the part.
Of course, if you took a drill in your hands for the first time in your life, you will not succeed very well. But this lesson can be learned pretty quickly.
