Clay oven for the home with their own hands. Clay oven - adobe bakery

Clay mortar for the furnace

A homemade adobe oven will require a large number of clay mortar, which you can make yourself. The main thing here is to guess with the proportions, and they, in turn, depend on the fat content of the clay and the quality of the sand.

To prepare the solution we need:
water;
sand;
clay.

The more sand in our solution, the less the degree of shrinkage, but the degree of strength will also decrease. And the solution, in the end, should have minimal shrinkage and maximum strength. Therefore, it is important to combine everything correctly here. Make some sample solution, find your combination. The only remark is that there should be a minimum amount of water, this will reduce shrinkage.

After the desired combination is found: the clay must be mixed with a small amount of water and sand for the consistency of a stiff dough, this can be done the old fashioned way, with your feet, provided that you do not have a special tool.

We make the foundation for the clay oven

In order to make the foundation you need:
Remove the sod and fertile layer from the soil (25 cm);

The bottom resulting from the excavation of the pit must be filled with a liquid clay solution, after which the boulders should be laid, and again filled with the same clay solution;

We install the formwork around the perimeter of the pit;

We raise the masonry by 20 centimeters from the ground;

We level the top layer of masonry with a thicker mortar and cover it with waterproofing material (old packages or roofing material - which is enough for the budget);

The final touch: we lay boards on the material, laying them crosswise (2 layers, boards 25 cm thick).

The foundation is ready and the first stage of making an adobe oven with your own hands is completed.

After work on arranging the foundation, you will have to master the hearth and hearth devices.

We lay out stones on the foundation and bind them with clay mortar. The height, in the end, should be about 20 cm, and the top 5 cm should be exclusively of clay, this is important.

The assembly of the clay oven continues. On the hearth it is necessary to mount the inner and outer formwork. External formwork, these are four plank walls, folded into a box. Dimensions of the resulting box: 0.6x1.2x1.4 m. In the manufacture of the inner formwork, a hole with dimensions of 20x20 cm must be left in the front circle, it is necessary for the subsequent burning of the formwork. We return to the outer one, wedging it with stakes in order to avoid deformation.

Clay oven assembly

The space between the formwork must be filled with clay, having previously protected the hole in the circle with a board.

In order to make the product dense, carefully compact the clay, laying it out in layers of 10 cm. Corners and ceilings can be further strengthened with rods with a diameter of 10 mm. The rods should be placed 10 cm higher than the inner formwork.

The furnace should form, give it at least 3 days for this, after which carefully remove the front wall of the formwork and cut out the mouth with a knife. Mouth parameters: width -38 cm, and height - 32 cm. Desirable shape, arch shape. Through the mouth we made, we carefully removed the protective board. You can try to remove the remaining formwork walls, but for now this is a rather risky undertaking, because the furnace can fall apart under its own weight if it is not fully formed. Therefore, it is better not to rush.

Drying and Finishing the Furnace

Most of all, the arrangement of an adobe oven will take you time rather than effort or resources. The oven should dry for at least a week, or even one and a half or two. It all depends on the quality of the source material and humidity. But the period can be significantly reduced if you are in such a hurry with the launch of bread production. In order for the stove to dry out in a week, light a weak light in the furnace furnace, for about half an hour, no more. This procedure must be repeated 3 times a day, thereby maintaining the oven barely warm. True, stove makers say that the longer the oven dries, the longer it will last later, so decide for yourself whether you need to speed up.

But one way or another, you will have to wait and this is a good break to accessorize, make a damper and a shovel. In order to preserve the spirit of nostalgia and antiquity, it is better to make both of them from wood. The damper should cover the mouth as tightly as possible, for its manufacture it is better to use dry boards of arbitrary thickness. But the board for the shovel should be about 25 mm thick, the length and width of the product is selected individually.

To give a more aesthetic appearance, the oven can be whitewashed. No need to look for expensive materials, chalk whitewash, mixed with skim milk, is quite suitable. The advantages of such whitewashing are that it does not get dirty at all and does not stain all households. Whitewashing is applied in two layers, and after everything dries, the body of the furnace can be painted with watercolors at your discretion. So you get not only an original and functional thing, but a thing with a unique design.

Before putting the furnace into operation, after it is completely dry, the inner formwork must be burned. But be careful, during the burning process, the back of the arch may suffer, and cracks will appear. If cracks appear, then they must be covered with a solution, after expanding a little. After all these not tricky manipulations, your homemade adobe oven is ready for use.

Furnace classification

People have long noticed that with strong heating, clay from a soft material turns into an impenetrable stone. No one now remembers when the first kiln for firing clay products appeared. Over the millennia of human activity, not only pottery, but also the furnaces necessary for it, have constantly developed and improved.

Such a furnace will help to make handmade ceramics

There are several main categories of kilns:

• by the type of fuel or energy source on which the unit operates. This section highlights gas, electric and solid fuel;
• according to the location of the heater. There are two main types: muffle, when the heaters are placed around the muffle, and chamber - the heater is inside the firing chamber;
• difference in the type of chamber environment. This classification is divided into three types: vacuum, when air is pumped out of the chamber, air - conventional furnaces, and with a protective gaseous environment when an auxiliary gas is injected for better processing of products;
• loading differences. Three categories: tubular - loading from above, for uniform firing of artistic products, bell-shaped - the same loading, but for dimensional objects, horizontal - when loaded from the front;
• power and maximum heating temperature. The final quality and color of the product depends on the firing temperature, so this category is of great importance for those who experiment in these areas.

Overview of ceramic kilns:

Construction of a summer stove

The structure inside the premises is most often built from adobe bricks or blocks. But with the help of layers of adobe, you can do it yourself, for example, a summer or, as it is also called, an outdoor stove.

The algorithm for constructing a street structure from adobe is as follows:

• Prepare the base for the future furnace design. To do this, you can use an ordinary whole brick, which must be laid out in a semicircle, and the inside can be filled with broken brick, glass or other material. For the hearth you need to use fireclay bricks.
• Mix clay with straw (preferably cut) and sand in a large container (you can use a used bathroom). It is best to do this with bare feet, while making sure that the resulting mixture is viscous and homogeneous.
• On the finished base, using wet sand, create a form for the future structure, on which to mark the entrance. Usually, it is built hemispherical, and wet sand is ideal for creating such a shape.

Lay the adobe on, under, or around the mold. After that, they gradually put the building material on the previous layer and slowly move towards the top. It must be remembered that the higher the sand dome, the thinner the masonry should be, otherwise the structure may “float”.

Everything, the structure is done, and you need to wait until it dries, after which you need to smooth it a little with a trowel. This technique will protect the structure from sticking to it with dry grass, leaves and other debris. If the structure becomes more or less dry, then from its inside you need to select sand, which has already played a role. It is also recommended to light small fires inside the dome so that the building dries out faster. It is possible to build an adobe oven with a chimney, and a variant is also possible without it.

Thus, an adobe oven is not just building structure, and, one might say, is a part of our history, one of the oldest Russian traditions, if you like. And this is indeed true. Therefore, let's respect our history, our customs, multiply our traditions, and then everything will be fine with us. We are convinced of this! published by econet.ru

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to specialists and readers of our project here.

clay oven

Clay ovens have been built for centuries, since there were no bricks in the villages before or they were too expensive. At present, it is almost a forgotten art. We made our oven, relying on our own intuition and information gleaned from books, we also had no experience in this matter.

Our stove is a Russian stove "in black", that is, without a chimney. Such stoves used to be placed in the so-called "chicken" huts, where the smoke went into the room, and then out through a small window near the ceiling. Over time, the window was replaced with a chimney - a wooden pipe starting from the ceiling. In huts, such stoves could occupy up to 1/4 of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Our furnace has dimensions of 1.2×1.6 m. The names of the main parts and dimensions are shown in fig. one.

Rice. 1. Kurna adobe baking oven. Dimensions are given in meters.

Before the construction of the furnace, it was necessary to make a foundation for it. To do this, we removed the sod and the upper soft layer of soil to a depth of 20-25 cm on the site. The bottom of the pit was filled with liquid clay mortar, boulders were laid and they were also filled with clay mortar. Then, formwork was installed around the pit and the masonry was raised 20 cm above ground level. The top of the masonry was leveled with a thick clay mortar and a layer of waterproofing material was laid (Fig. 2). Any material is suitable for him: roofing felt, plastic wrap, old bags. In the old days, birch bark was used for this purpose.

Rice. 2. Construction of the furnace foundation.

On the waterproofing, we laid two layers of boards 25 mm thick crosswise with an overlap. Due to this, the load from the furnace is evenly distributed over the entire foundation.

After the foundation of the furnace was laid, they proceeded to the construction of the hearth and hearth. To do this, stones were laid out above the foundation to a height of 20 cm and tied with clay mortar, and the upper 5 cm of these 20 cm were laid only from clay. If the layer of clay is thinner than 5 cm, then when heated, it will fall off the stones and there will be pits on the hearth.

A few words about clay

For a clay oven, a properly prepared clay solution is the most important thing. The mortar must provide minimal shrinkage and at the same time be durable. It is made from clay, sand, water. The more sand, the less shrinkage, but the lower the strength. The clay/sand ratio depends on the fat content of the clay used. There should be very little water in the solution, again to reduce shrinkage.

In our case, the situation was simplified, since we had no sand at all in the forest clearing. I had to do everything from clay "as it is." The clay was taken out of the pit and transferred to a shield 1.5 × 1.5 m, where, with a small amount of water, it was stirred with feet to the consistency of a stiff dough.

External and internal formwork was installed on the hearth. The outer formwork consists of four plank walls hammered into a box with overall dimensions 0.6 × 1.2 × 1.4 m. The internal formwork is shown in fig. 3.

Rice. 3. Internal formwork.

A hole 20 × 20 cm was left in the front circle. It was needed later, when burning the formwork. The outer formwork was wedged with stakes so that it would not deform when the clay was packed. The hole in the front circle was closed with a piece of board from the outside. Then the inter-formwork space was filled with clay.

Clay was laid in layers of 10 cm and carefully compacted. To increase the strength of the structure, we reinforced the corners, the overlap of the vault and the mouth with rods Ø10 mm. Even if the clay cracks, the rods will not let the stove fall apart. At the same time, we took into account that the mouth would be cut in the front wall of the furnace to a height of 32 cm and the rods should be 10 cm higher. The same was done with the overlap of the furnace. The rods were placed 10 cm above the inner formwork.

Advantages and disadvantages

In modern times, people have again begun to show interest in the original Russian adobe stove. They are built not only in the villages rural type but also the people living in the city. Equipment can be erected on the street or right in the house.

Clay stoves are used not only as a heating unit, but also as a decorative element that can be used to decorate a garden, a country house and similar buildings. The design is very simple, so it will not be difficult to recreate it in any room. For manufacturing, you only need to have a great desire to build, as well as clay.

The furnace is gaining great popularity due to its obvious advantages:

1. Maximum ease of construction - there is no need to spend money on expensive materials and tools. The design is created by hand and does not even have to use electricity.
2. Compact dimensions.
3. Full environmental friendliness - only natural materials that do not pollute the environment.
4. Little cost. You don't have to buy anything at the hardware store. Even on the sand there is an option to save money - go to the nearest beach and dial there right amount.
5. Great practicality. The oven is used not only for heating, but also for cooking, drying clothes. It is also a good decorative element.

Despite the large number of advantages, any device has its disadvantages. The only downside is that it will take a lot of building material - clay. It must be mixed properly to get the right consistency. But if you conduct a few experiments and practice mixing a small amount, then there will be no difficulties in this situation.

How to make a clay oven

Clay should be quite plastic, with a minimum moisture content. The solution should provide minimal shrinkage, while being strong enough. The ratio of clay and sand - 1:6

In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to the fat content of clay. The mass must be thoroughly mixed, this will take time

And when favorable conditions and following the technology, you can build a furnace with your own hands in one day. With each firebox, the stove becomes stronger, which ensures the solidity of the structure. Tools needed to make an adobe oven

• beaters, which are wooden cuttings with knobs;
• chekmari - large wooden hammers;
• rammer - used for kneading clay;
• excess clay is removed with a knife;
• the pestle is used for laying mortar;
• grater and scraper - for leveling the walls.

Clay Kiln Construction Technique

There are two technologies for kiln construction from clay. In the first case, formwork is used, and in the second, a do-it-yourself adobe oven is formed from pre-prepared blocks. The first option is complex and more suitable for small hearths intended for baking bread and cooking baked dishes, while the second can be used to build a functional Russian oven.

Clay mortar preparation

Clay, sand and water are required to prepare the solution. In many regions, all this can be found absolutely free. For construction, oily clay of a reddish hue is best suited. Red granular clay is not suitable for ovens. If self-extraction of raw materials is difficult, then it can be bought at hardware stores. It is more profitable to buy in large packaging - it's cheaper.

There is no exact recipe for the solution - the proportions depend on the fat content of the clay. In some areas sand is not added at all, while in others it is required twice as much as the main raw material. The output should be a very dense and thick homogeneous solution.

Baking in the formwork

It was not by chance that the adobe oven was named - the construction technology involves beating the solution that fills the formwork with special wooden hammers. One end of the tool is flat - they compact and level the surface, and the other has a wedge-shaped shape and serves to beat the clay between the formwork. It will not work to build such a hearth alone - in the old days, neighbors were involved in the work, assembling teams of 15-16 people.

Formwork for baking

The manufacture of formwork is not an easy process, it is assembled from wood during the formation of the furnace, but all the details are prepared in advance. The most difficult thing is to correctly make the “created” for the firebox. The furnace billet has the shape of half a barrel, while the arch of the arch starts from the base and does not have straight walls - this enhances traction and provides good heat. The boards are sawn from the inside and tied to the details of the rope, so that after drying it is easy to remove the shape.

Clay oven in a modern version

Before placing the clay solution in a wooden "shirt", clay is beaten in small portions on the floor to get rid of lumps and voids. After filling the form, the top layer is covered with pieces of clay 30 * 40 cm in size and cover the top. After three days, the struts are removed, the mouth is cut out with a knife and the front boards of the work are knocked out. The upper formwork is carefully removed and covered with an error solution. At will, stoves are cut out on the walls, which collect heat and decorate the hearth. You can think about the first firebox no earlier than in 2 weeks.

Construction of a clay block stove

To build a clay oven with your own hands from blocks, first make homemade bricks. To do this, the solution is kneaded for a long time, achieving a uniform composition and a dense layer. In the old days, they did it with their feet and with the help of horses, later they pressed the clay with a tractor, and now they use all kinds of devices.

A well-packed clay layer is chopped with an ax into blocks of the desired size, without waiting for drying. A stove is built from the blocks, but no mortar is used to bind the bricks, but the joints are rammed with hammers. To get the firebox of the desired shape, they make wooden formwork, which can not be removed, but burned during operation.

Stylish clay oven in a modern interior

It is allowed to make a fire only after the final drying - after two weeks. In the first few days, small portions of brushwood are burned to dry the clay and give it strength. Over time, the clay oven only becomes stronger - the raw material is baked and turns into a monolithic structure.

What are the methods for creating adobe ovens

Do-it-yourself adobe oven can be built in two ways:

1. With formwork. This option was used in cases where it was necessary to build a small hearth, with which it was possible to bake bread, cook baked dishes.
2. With the use of clay bricks or formed blocks. Such designs ensured the versatility of Russian stoves.

Clay in the formwork

The first option is more complex and requires more time and solution. Therefore, we will first dwell on this option - very reliable and cheap, but more complex.

Consider how the oven is built "in a black way", which is placed in the garden, near a room or in some other place on the street. Clay oven for baking bread has the following external dimensions: 0.6x1.2x1.6 m.

For the construction of a hearth and a hearth, at a height of about 20 cm, a certain number of stones are laid out, which are filled with not very liquid clay, while its layer above the stones should be about 5 cm.

Internal formwork

After that, they are engaged in the installation of external and internal formwork (see Fig.). The structure of the external structure is simpler: a box measuring 60x120x160 cm.

The inner formwork can be clearly seen in the figure. The front circle is equipped with a hole of about 20x20 cm, which is useful in the process of burning the formwork.

To avoid unnecessary deformations, the outer part is wedged with pegs. After that, it is necessary to fill the space between the formwork with previously prepared clay.

To improve the quality of the structure, it is necessary to lay the clay in low layers (up to 10 cm) and ram it well.

In order for the whole structure to be strong, the corners and the vault must be reinforced with 10-12 mm rods. The mouth is also amenable to reinforcement, which will have a height of approximately 32 cm.

Clay block oven

The second method was most often used by rich people who could purchase bricks or blocks for the construction of a furnace.

Today, clay blocks or bricks can be made by hand. For this purpose, it is necessary to knead the clay solution until a homogeneous composition and a dense layer are obtained, after the formation of which, it must be cut into blocks of a certain size. With such elements and build a stove.

It should be taken into account that during the creation of the structure, no mortar is used to bind adobe bricks together. The joints between them must be tamped with hammers.

To give the firebox a specific shape, they use home-made formwork, which is burned inside the structure 2-3 weeks after construction during the first “idle” operation. It means that before full-fledged operation, it is necessary to light a small fire with brushwood several times inside so that the whole structure gradually dries completely.

From time immemorial, our ancestors built adobe stoves. Usually they were built in villages and, due to the lack of a chimney, the first versions of such structures were called "black" stoves. Accordingly, the house where there was a clay oven of this type was called a "smoke" hut. Such a name directly depended on the design of the furnace, since at first the smoke filled the dwelling, and only eventually came out through a small hole (top) under the ceiling. It is clear that the whole hut was smoky, and through the window, which was built specifically for this, not only gases and smoke came out, but almost all the heat.

Construction materials

The first thing you need when creating a furnace structure is a clay solution, which you need a lot. In addition to the main substance, it also includes sand and water. During construction, oily fine-grained clay is used, which has a slightly reddish tint. Before use, it is recommended to soak it in barrels or other large containers, then mix well.

Advice! To obtain an almost perfect homogeneity of the mixture, it is recommended to mix the clay with your feet, as they did in the old days.

The exact ratio of the ingredients of the clay solution does not exist, since in each locality the material has its own fat content. In order to obtain a high-quality mixture, it is necessary to make several different compositions in small quantities and choose the right option in a practical way.

Important! The quality of the functioning of the furnace structure depends on the quality of the solution. Therefore, in the end, the solution should be dense, thick and uniform.

Advantages

Today, interest in clay ovens is beginning to grow. They are built not only by villagers, but also urban population. You can build them both indoors and outdoors. Therefore, today clay stoves, which are built in the garden, in the summer cottage, are very popular.

The design itself is not particularly complex. Every self-respecting man and real owner can build such an adobe structure with his own hands. To do this, you need two things: material and a great desire.

The great popularity of adobe stoves today is due to their obvious advantages. They are characterized by:

• ease of creation;
• compactness;
• environmental friendliness;
• low cost;
• practicality.

In addition, this design can be used for:

• space heating;
• cooking unusually tasty, fragrant and healthy food;
• baking bread, including hearth bread, which does not get stale for a long time and has a specific pleasant taste.

What are the methods for creating adobe ovens

Do-it-yourself adobe oven can be built in two ways:

1. With formwork. This option was used in cases where it was necessary to build a small hearth, with which it was possible to bake bread, cook baked dishes.
2. With the use of clay bricks or formed blocks. Such designs ensured the versatility of Russian stoves.

Clay in the formwork

The first option is more complex and requires more time and solution. Therefore, we will first dwell on this option - very reliable and cheap, but more complex.

Consider how the oven is built "in a black way", which is placed in the garden, near a room or in some other place on the street. Clay oven for baking bread has the following external dimensions: 0.6x1.2x1.6 m.

But before before proceeding directly to the construction, it is necessary to create a foundation. To do this, they dig a small pit 25-30 cm deep, fill the bottom with liquid clay, lay stones on it, which are also covered with a clay solution. After that, the masonry is raised to a height of 20-25 cm above the ground, the site is leveled with a mortar, and waterproofing is laid.

For the construction of a hearth and a hearth, at a height of about 20 cm, a certain number of stones are laid out, which are filled with not very liquid clay, while its layer above the stones should be about 5 cm.

Internal formwork

After that, they are engaged in the installation of external and internal formwork (see Fig.). The structure of the external structure is simpler: a box measuring 60x120x160 cm.

The inner formwork can be clearly seen in the figure. The front circle is equipped with a hole of about 20x20 cm, which is useful in the process of burning the formwork.

To avoid unnecessary deformations, the outer part is wedged with pegs. After that, it is necessary to fill the space between the formwork with previously prepared clay.

To improve the quality of the structure, it is necessary to lay the clay in low layers (up to 10 cm) and ram it well.

In order for the whole structure to be strong, the corners and the vault must be reinforced with 10-12 mm rods. The mouth is also amenable to reinforcement, which will have a height of approximately 32 cm.

Important! The rods must be placed at a height of 10 cm above the upper edge of the mouth and the inside of the formwork.

Clay block oven

The second method was most often used by rich people who could purchase bricks or blocks for the construction of a furnace.

Today, clay blocks or bricks can be made by hand. For this purpose, it is necessary to knead the clay solution until a homogeneous composition and a dense layer are obtained, after the formation of which, it must be cut into blocks of a certain size. With such elements and build a stove.

It should be taken into account that during the creation of the structure, no mortar is used to bind adobe bricks together. The joints between them must be tamped with hammers.

To give the firebox a specific shape, they use home-made formwork, which is burned inside the structure 2-3 weeks after construction during the first “idle” operation. It means that before full-fledged operation, it is necessary to light a small fire with brushwood several times inside so that the whole structure gradually dries completely.

Making an adobe stove

Many people want to build an adobe oven on their own. For those who do not know what it is, let's say that adobe is an environmentally friendly building material, the main ingredient of which is clay mixed with straw, hay, wood shavings, manure or other substances that increase its strength. To reduce shrinkage during the drying process, a little more sand is added to the mixture. Depending on the purpose of the furnace structure, it can be of various shapes.

Construction of a summer stove

The structure inside the premises is most often built from adobe bricks or blocks. But with the help of layers of adobe, you can do it yourself, for example, a summer or, as it is also called, an outdoor stove.

Advice: it is best to start construction at the beginning of summer, because under the influence of summer natural heat, the structure will dry well!

The algorithm for constructing a street structure from adobe is as follows:

• Prepare the base for the future furnace design. To do this, you can use an ordinary whole brick, which must be laid out in a semicircle, and the inside can be filled with broken brick, glass or other material. For the hearth you need to use fireclay bricks.
• Mix clay with straw (preferably cut) and sand in a large container (you can use a used bathroom). It is best to do this with bare feet, while making sure that the resulting mixture is viscous and homogeneous.
• On the finished base, using wet sand, create a form for the future structure, on which to mark the entrance. Usually, it is built hemispherical, and wet sand is ideal for creating such a shape.

Advice: for better adhesion of adobe to the brick base, it is necessary to wash off the sand around the mold and, at the same time, moisten the surface.

• Lay the adobe on, under, or around the mold. After that, they gradually put the building material on the previous layer and slowly move towards the top. It must be remembered that the higher the sand dome, the thinner the masonry should be, otherwise the structure may “float”.

Everything, the structure is done, and you need to wait until it dries, after which you need to smooth it a little with a trowel. This technique will protect the structure from sticking to it with dry grass, leaves and other debris. If the structure becomes more or less dry, then from its inside you need to select sand, which has already played a role. It is also recommended to light small fires inside the dome so that the building dries out faster. It is possible to build an adobe oven with a chimney, and a variant is also possible without it.

Thus, an adobe stove is not just a building structure, but, one might say, a part of our history, one of the oldest Russian traditions, if you like. And this is indeed true. Therefore, let's respect our history, our customs, multiply our traditions, and then everything will be fine with us. We are convinced of this!

www.nashadacha.info

It is always nice to use junk materials with benefit. And if it concerns fuel and heating, it is also very profitable.

examples are heating furnaces in used oil. They can use any oil that can burn. Transmission, diesel, machine, confectionery, vegetable ... Really any. There are no problems with fuel for such units. What they found, they poured. Moreover, a do-it-yourself furnace is also made from waste materials: an old gas or oxygen cylinder, pipe sections of different diameters or pieces of metal.

If any used oil is simply set on fire, the smoke will be merciless and “smell” even more actively. Therefore, direct combustion is not used. First, volatile substances evaporate, then they are burned. This is the basic principle of design development. Therefore, in some embodiments, the furnace has two combustion chambers connected by a tube in which holes are made.

In the lower chamber, the fuel is heated and evaporated. Combustible vapors rise up. Passing through a pipe with holes, they mix with oxygen dissolved in the air. Already in the upper part of this pipe, the mixture ignites, and burns out in the second chamber. Moreover, the combustion of vapors occurs with the release of much more heat and less smoke. At right technology there is practically no smoke, as well as soot.

The structure of the waste oil furnace with an air supply pipe

The second method of separating "heavy" fuel (oil of any origin) into "flammable" components is more efficient, but also more difficult to implement. For efficient evaporation, a metal bowl is installed in the lower chamber. It heats up, the droplets of mining that fall on it instantly turn into volatile combustible vapors. In this case, the glow is obtained (in the correct mode) blue-white, as in the case of plasma combustion. From here came another name for this design - with a plasma bowl.

To achieve the greatest efficiency of fuel combustion, used oil must be fed into the lower chamber in very small portions. In some cases - drops, sometimes - a thin stream. That is why this technology is called drip feed.

Working principle of waste oil furnace with plasma bowl

These are the basic principles of the "operation" of home-made heating units. There are a very large number of their combinations and variations. A few of them are described below.

You can see an example of combustion in a plasma bowl in the video below. This is a Gecko mining furnace, it has a built-in water heater and can work as a heating boiler.

The main and main plus is that used fuel and oils are used, which otherwise would have to be disposed of. If the technology is followed, the combustion is so complete that practically no harmful emissions into the atmosphere occur. Other advantages are no less significant:

• simple design;
• high efficiency;
• low cost of equipment and fuel;
• works on any oils, organic, synthetic, vegetable origin;
• the content of up to 10% of pollutants is allowed.

There are also serious drawbacks. And the main one is that if the technology is not followed, the combustion of fuel occurs incompletely. And its vapors get into the room, and this is very dangerous. Therefore, the main and main requirement: furnaces operating on waste oil are installed exclusively in rooms with a ventilation system.

For comparison: this is a waste oil boiler with an inflatable burner. The technology is different, as is the design (for more details, see the video at the end of the article)

There are more cons:

• to ensure good draft, the chimney must be straight and high - at least 5 meters;
• requires regular cleaning of the bowl and chimney- daily;
• problematic ignition: you must first heat the bowl, then supply fuel;
• hot water options are possible, but their independent design difficult task- you can not greatly lower the temperature in the combustion zone, otherwise the whole process will fall apart (as an option - install a water jacket on the chimney, here it certainly will not interfere with the decay of the fuel).

Due to such features, such units are rarely used for heating residential buildings. If they put them, then in separate rooms and in an improved form.

In the basic version, a homemade waste oil stove heats the air. They are also called heat guns, heat generators or heaters. It is rarely used for heating residential premises in this form: the air dries out, oxygen from hot metal walls is burned out. But to maintain a normal temperature in industrial or technical rooms such units are very effective: they quickly raise the temperature. They can be seen at service stations, car washes, garages, production shops where there are no combustible materials, in warehouses, in greenhouses, etc.

Do-it-yourself furnaces for working out - the best option for a garage

Many options can be improved: they can install a coil for heating water or make a water jacket. Such equipment already belongs to the category of water heating and can be installed in a water heating system. Without automation, a mining furnace with a water circuit requires constant monitoring, but for summer cottages, farm buildings with livestock, etc. this is a great option.

Today there are already more than a dozen different designs. They use different methods of extracting thermal energy, have a different structure.

It is easier to make an oven if the body is already ready. As such, you can use a gas or oxygen cylinder, a thick-walled barrel or pipe. The diagram below explains how to make a waste oil stove from a pipe.

The operation of this unit is based on evaporation in a plasma bowl. It can produce up to 15 kW of heat (on average, it can heat 150 square meters). Greater heat transfer due to any changes (furnace size or increase in air supply) is impossible: the thermal regime will be disturbed and instead of more heat, it will turn out large quantity dude, that's not safe.

A furnace for working out from a pipe can be made with your own hands if you have welding skills

The build order is:

1. We make a body.
   1. We take a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 210 mm, a wall thickness of 10 mm. Height 780 mm.
   2. From sheet steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm, cut out the bottom with a diameter of 219 mm and weld it on one side. This is the bottom.
   3. Legs are welded to the bottom (they can be made from bolts).
   4. A viewing window is made at a distance of 70 mm from the bottom. Through it, it will be possible to monitor combustion and heat the bowl at the “start”. Dimensions, respectively, make it convenient for you. The door itself is made from a cut piece of pipe, having welded a thin collar. But everything should be closed tightly, because an asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter of the door. You can use furnace casting, then the dimensions of the hole are cut out for it. You can fasten it with bolts directly to the body (an asbestos cord is required here too).
   5. FROM opposite side the bodies, stepping back from the top 7-10 cm, weld a pipe to remove flue gases. Its diameter is 108 mm, wall thickness is 4 mm.
2. We make a cover.
   1. A circle with a diameter of 228 mm is cut out of metal 5 mm thick.
   2. A collar is welded along the edge from a strip of metal 40 mm wide, the thickness of the metal is 3 mm.
   3. A hole with a diameter of 89 mm is cut out in the center of the cover, the second with a diameter of 18 mm is cut out from the side. The smaller hole serves as another viewing window, a cover is made on it, which is also used as a safety valve.
3. We make a pipe for supplying air and fuel.
   1. We take a piece of pipe with a diameter of 89 mm, with a wall thickness of 3 mm, and a length of 760 mm.
   2. Stepping back from the edge of 50 mm around the circumference, drill 9 holes of 5 mm in diameter.
   3. 50 mm above these holes, two more rows of holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm are made, 8 pcs in each row.
   4. Having risen even higher by 50 mm, a fourth row of holes is made, 3 mm in diameter. There should be 9 of them.
   5. On the same side, cuts 1.6 mm thick and 30 mm high are cut along the edge of the grinder. Around the circumference of the pipe, they need to be made 9 pcs.
   6. From the other end of the pipe, stepping back 5-7 mm, cut out a hole with a diameter of 10 mm.
   7. Insert the fuel supply pipe into the cut hole. Its diameter is 10 mm, wall thickness is 1 mm. It ends at the same level with the air supply pipe. The length and angle of the bend depend on where the fuel container will be located.

   

   An example of a homemade stove from a pipe

   After installing the oil tank, you can start testing. First, a little paper is placed in the bowl, a flammable liquid is poured, everything is set on fire. After the paper has almost burned through, the oil supply opens.

   This drawing of a waste oil furnace is not in vain given with such an accurate indication of the materials. These are the parts you need to use. As a result of the operation of a home-made stove, with a consumption of 1-1.5 liters of fuel per hour, you can heat a room up to 150 "squares".

   A furnace using waste oil from a cylinder (oxygen or gas) is presented by the author in the video. The design is similar to the one described above, but with original modifications (and it is a little simpler)

   This home-made stove, with a small size and weight (10 kg), fuel consumption of about 0.5 lira per hour, produces 5-6 kW of heat. It is possible to melt it more strongly, but it is not necessary: ​​it can explode. The design is loved by motorists: the garage heats up quickly even in extreme cold, it consumes oil economically, and it is also compact. Therefore, it can be called "garage".

   The fuel tank of this small air gun is assembled from the bottom and top of a standard 50 liter gas bottle. It turns out a very reliable design (keep at least one circular seam from the cylinder - there is sealing ring, which will give greater strength. You can make a tank from any other container of similar dimensions: with a diameter of 200-400 mm and a height of about 350 mm.

   

   A small furnace is being worked out, it weighs about 10 kg, it is easy to make it with your own hands

   In addition to the fuel tank, you need to make a pipe in which the fuel-air mixture is mixed. The wall thickness here is at least 4 mm. You can use a pipe of a suitable diameter. The cones are made from structural steel no thinner than 4 mm.

   The dimensions of the waste oil furnace indicated on the drawing can be adjusted up or down, but only by 20 mm - no more. Especially carefully it is necessary to boil the seams in the places of funnels: here the fuel-air mixture lingers for a long time, which is why the temperature is considerable.

   The length of the chimney pipe is no more than 3.5 meters. Otherwise, due to too good traction, the fuel will be pulled into the pipe, which will significantly increase consumption and reduce heat transfer.

   The figure on the right shows a hot-water version of a homemade stove. Around the upper part of the afterburning zone, several turns of a steel tube are made through which water is passed. In order for the temperature of the gases not to drop much, the coil is closed with a heat-reflecting steel casing. Cold water is fed from below, passing in a spiral, heats up and goes into the system.

   This option is very popular with summer residents and in garages. Comfortable small stove, which is made with round or square combustion zones. The design is so successful that there are even industrial options. For example, one of the enterprises sells it under the name "Ritsa". The diagram shows all the required dimensions.

   

   Waste oil furnace diagram with dimensions - all you need to make it yourself

   A video report on how to assemble this oven will help you navigate the order of work.

   The video below shows the variant with square containers, its filling and dimensions.

   Waste oil furnaces are made not only by the artisanal method, they are also produced by the industry. And there are both imported and Russian ones. But the type of construction they have is different.

   European or American mining boilers belong to the category of liquid fuel furnaces. They use the principle of pressurization: oil is sprayed into small droplets, combined with an air stream. And the fuel-air mixture is already ignited. Imported factory stoves use the same principle, only a special burner is installed in which the fuel is heated before spraying.

   To appreciate the difference in technology and structure, watch the following video. The device is completely different.
   

   In furnaces Russian production most use the first principle - there is a hot (plasma) bowl in which liquid fuel turns into gaseous, mixes with air and burns. According to this principle, the following units are built:

   • Gecko. Produced in Vladivostok. They make units with a capacity of 15, 30, 50 and 100 kW / h. It - hot water boilers, which are built into the water heating system. Prices from 70,000 rubles for a 15 kW boiler.

   

   Boilers at the development of Russian production "Gecko"

   There are many models of furnaces that use waste oil. And below are a few schemes that can give you an idea, and a do-it-yourself oven for working out will be efficient, economical and safe.

   sibloma.ru

   Clay technology of adobe kiln

   The entire mass of the mortar is placed in the pre-prepared formwork, from which the furnace and chimneys are selected and formed. This ensures the continuity, homogeneity of the furnace. The stove is molded, as if from plasticine, first to the level of the plate - the first stage, and then the overlap of the hogs is formed - the second stage. Clay is laid in layers of about 10 cm and carefully compacted. During the first stage, the firebox and firebox doors are walled up. When the clay mass is compacted to the level of the slab, the firebox is cut out with a spatula and the firebox door is released from the inside.

   When deepening, the walls can begin to deform, so it’s worth making a small formwork inside and setting the spacers as needed and progressing. First, a firebox is cut out, then an ash pan, an afterburner, a chimney, grates and a cast-iron stove are installed. The chamber and the chimney are covered with a slot - a board up to 35 mm thick. The chimney, an asbestos pipe, is brought out through a hole in the wall. The connection of the pipe with the main one is filled with a clay-sand mortar. A hole is cut in the outer formwork in the area of ​​​​the furnace door, while the outside of the door is freed from clay.

   To give additional strength, the corners, mouths and ceiling of the vault are reinforced with rods with a diameter of 10 mm. The finished oven is smoothed with graters and leveled with do-it-yourself scrapers.

   Then you can heat the furnace without removing the formwork. When the oven dries out, the formwork is removed and individual improvements are made: cutting through the doors and whitewashing.

   Furnace molding in wooden formwork

   The formwork for the future furnace is externally the shape of a box with plank walls, dimensions 0.6 x 1.2 x 1.4 m, and the internal formwork is a front circle with a rectangular hole (20 x 20 cm) and a rear circle, 0.8 m along the lower border, 0.4 m high. The circles are connected by two boards along the upper semicircle at a distance of 1 meter. The circle must withstand the blows of checkmars and rammers and be durable; when clay is beaten, the circle is not removed after the furnace is built, and the clay enters all the bumps and cracks in the circle tree, which burns out during firing.

   The hole in the front circle is closed with a board from the outside when laying clay. The flooring of wooden boards is covered with a layer of clay, compacted very tightly, on which pebbles or crushed stone are poured, then a new layer of clay follows. So arranged under the base of the furnace, it should have a slight slope towards the mouth of the furnace. Formwork is installed on the underside.

   Clay is laid in layers on a given formwork shape, compacted and leveled. When the circle closes, a rather thick layer is compacted on top - the stove bench. Next, the overtube of the furnace and chimneys are formed. The chimney cavity is formed using a smooth log and planks. The log is installed on the hearth, lined with boards, a formwork is installed at a short distance from the boards. As the pipe grows to the ceiling with a hole in it, the log is taken out into the attic. The boards first remain in the chimney, after completion of work they burn out after firing. In the side walls, the necessary niches are cut with a knife, designed for drying something.

   It is better that the drying is natural, that is, without heating. A few days later, when the furnace structure is completely dry, the front formwork is removed and the mouth is cut out, having the shape of a semicircular arch, 38 cm wide and 32 cm high, while making an inward slope on the front wall so that the damper is kept closed. If possible, all the remains of the formwork are removed, the furnace is heated and the remains of the formwork are burned. The oven is ready for use. If cracks appear after firing, they can be embroidered and puttied. The finished oven can be whitewashed with chalk whitewash.

   1poteply.ru

   Practice has shown that a good Russian stove can be made not only from brick, but also from clay. In this furnace, brick is used only for laying the hearth and laying pipes.

   With good performance and care, an adobe stove can serve for a long time. For laying the furnace, it is necessary to prepare the right amount of clay mortar, carefully selecting the composition as described earlier. For a medium-sized oven, approximately 3.5 m 3 of solution is required. Mix the solution very thoroughly. The density of the solution should be such that if you make a brick out of it standard size, put it in the middle on a hand or a stick, it should not bend. With a slight deflection, the quality of the brick is satisfactory (Fig. 73, a). Clay and sand to prepare the solution are poured onto wooden shield in such a way that after compaction a layer 150 mm thick is obtained. On a well-packed mortar, if you stand on it, footprints are almost invisible. A layer of 150 mm is convenient in that pieces or bars of the required size are cut from it for the furnace device. A thinner layer is inefficient, and a thicker one is difficult to compact during operation. The clay prepared in this way is cut into strips 200 m wide, which are then cut into rectangular bars (bricks) 300–400 mm long. The ends of the bars are cut to a mustache or half their thickness, that is, in the same way as wood is paired into half a tree (Fig. 73, b).

   Rice. 73. Adaptation and procedure for the device of the Russian clay oven:

   a- checking the stiffness of the solution; b - the shape of the bars and their placement in the oven; in- a wooden roller and a scraper with a steel blade; G- walls under the arch; d- frame for mouth; e- laying the vault (numbers show the order of laying the pieces, arrows show the direction of blows)

   The bars are laid with overlapping seams with additional thorough compaction with a roll or rammer, which is applied strong blows top and sides (Fig. 73, in). The stronger the seal, the higher the strength of the furnace and vice versa.

   After compacting and leveling the masonry, excess clay is cut off with a scraper, and the walls are checked for verticality and horizontality.

   You need to know that the wall thickness of the furnace can be from 190 to 250 mm. The thicker the walls, the longer the stove keeps heat.

   When laying the next row of bars, the underlying bars are not moistened with water. If they are moistened, then at the points of contact of the bars, the solution layer will be weaker. During a break in work, the upper sides of the laid bars are covered with rags soaked in water and squeezed out of its excess.

   As you know, a sandy backfill is needed under the hearth, which is poured onto a previously arranged flooring or vault. The flooring can also be made of wood, but at a distance of 450–500 mm from the level of the hearth. First, 250–300 mm of earth is poured onto the wooden flooring, it is well leveled and compacted, and sand or a mixture of sand and gravel with a layer of 150–180 mm, but more is possible on the ground. It is very good to pre-lay two layers of asbestos or felt soaked in clay mortar on a wooden flooring. This keeps the wood from getting too hot.

   Prior to the construction of the vault, it is necessary to arrange two walls in the shape of a crucible or chamber and install them in place (Fig. 73, G). In the future, a hole-mouth is cut out in the front wall. The shape of the mouth can be semicircular or in the form of a gentle arch of the same dimensions as the previously considered damper.

   It is advisable to insert a metal frame made of strip or angle steel into the mouth, but it is possible from round reinforcing steel with a thickness of 7 mm or more. In this case, the wire is bent in the shape of a damper. Having made three to five bars, they are put together, tied with wire. At any frame, the paws are bent. They are necessary to secure them in the laid mass (Fig. 73, d). The frame will serve as a support for the wall and a stop for the damper. It should be fixed.

   It is best to arrange the front wall with the mouth like this. Make a wooden formwork according to the shape of the mouth, put a frame on it, lay the cut clay strips, carefully compacting them, cut off the sides, having previously drawn the shape of the wall, and cut off the excess according to this shape.

   The vault is best arranged along the formwork, which must be very strong. The formwork is covered with paper on top in one or two layers; this will make it easier to remove it from the clay. Clay bars before laying on the formwork are given necessary form cutting off the excess with a knife. Laying is carried out as shown in Figure 73, e. Having cut off excess clay, they clean everything. The stacked bars compact well.

   The vault can be made without formwork, but it is more difficult, besides, you have to clean the vault inside with a scraper, which is very inconvenient and time consuming.

   In general, all internal surfaces of the furnace should be made particularly smooth in order to improve draft and provide a freer, smoke-free exit of flue gases.

   Having completed the forehead and covered it with clay bars in two or three layers, they are carefully compacted together. Above are brickwork.

   The finished oven should be dried for at least five to seven days with open appliances. Then they are heated with dry fuel, first laying small portions, and then gradually increasing them. After the combustion of fuel, dampers, valves or views are left open. When heated, the clay releases a lot of steam, which must go into the pipe. As the furnace cools down, usually after 6–8 hours, the firebox is repeated. Such drying is carried out for five to six days until the furnace is completely dry. After that, they take dry fuel (wood is chopped finely) and for the first time they really heat the stove. During this furnace, not only the furnace is finally dried out, but also clay is fired from the inside of the crucible or cooking chamber. Hot coals should be evenly distributed throughout the hearth. A well-heated furnace is closed. A day later, the firebox is repeated. Proper drying and firing ensure the strength and solidity of the kiln.

   It should be recalled that the floor can also be made of raw bricks, but, unfortunately, when water flows out of the dishes during boiling, it can erode the fragile clay.

   After completing the oven, they clean the outer or front sides and rub it with clay or lime-clay mortar. After the solution has dried, the oven is whitewashed two or three times with lime diluted in skimmed milk, obtaining a durable, non-staining paint.

   Next chapter >

   hobby.wikireading.ru

   I warn you now: I am not a baker. It’s just that in life I’m interested in doing everything with my own hands, so I decided to make a clay oven. Before that, there was little experience: I made a stove-heater for a bath and a fireplace in my house, near St. Petersburg, when I lived in Russia. And here in Serbia - God himself ordered. Because Serbs love everything natural: food, water, and fire. That is why you will not see microwave ovens in Serbian cafes and restaurants. Serbs bake meat and bread on coals, whether it's a cool restaurant or a poor peasant in a mountain village. In truth, we have a clay oven - it was inherited from the old owners. Big! With thermostat! One hundred and thirty centimeters in diameter. The old owner baked piglets in it!

   But we are Russians, so I began to dig a hole not far from the house and dig clay. And I needed an oven so that I could bake bread, and not piglets, since we don’t keep pigs yet. While dragging clay and sand into the house, he remembered thermodynamics and theoretical mechanics with strength of materials. I will make a reservation that clay is needed not just any, but rather oily: it should stick to the shovel and shine in the sun, like a shovel. (Unless your shovel is rusty).
   Sand added quite a bit - by eye. I did not add hay and manure for thermal insulation at all, since the stove is in the house, there is not much point. And I added a little lime to the solution, but this is already at the final stage, so that the solution is more plastic.

   As a foundation for the stove, I put eight expanded clay-concrete blocks "on the priest", and made a reinforced screed on top, which I covered with boards - an inch. He laid out a centimeter layer of clay on the boards and began to lay the bottom row of bricks on it, which would also serve as a slab. Then he began to make a mold out of sand. So that it does not crumble, slightly moistened it with water. I made Foma not round, but slightly oblong, as in Russian village stoves. When the sand mold (furnace dome) was ready, I put several layers of wet newspapers on top, carefully smoothing it down.
   Without waiting for the paper to dry, he began to coat the form with clay. Just like how children make pancakes. That is, you pick up as much clay as you like in your hand and stick it on the newspaper. When he had enough to stick to, he moistened his hands in water and smoothed the whole structure. Everything! Now you have to wait 2-3 weeks until the oven dries.

   As in every handmade work, there are little secrets and tricks here. For example, the oven door is calculated as follows: the height of the dome of your oven in centimeters is multiplied by 0.63 and the door height is obtained. In order to properly heat the top of the oven (and this is for baking bread necessary condition) at the very top of the dome, a recess is made so that the heat does not go to waste into the pipe, but heats the dome. This ensures the swirling of gases. Professionals do it differently - they insert a metal chipper plate. The door in the oven is cut through before 2 weeks; you need to wait until the clay dries up and carefully cut it with a knife. After the whole structure had dried, I removed the sand from the oven with my hands. And then slowly, melting with small chips, burned out the remnants of the newspapers. The oven is ready, it remains to bring beauty, i.e. you can make stucco molding, or you can stupidly paint it. Who has a fantasy. And I will wait for the "muse" and bad rainy weather, so that I have the opportunity to do design. I do not recommend heating ahead of time, as cracks may appear.
   The photographs provided show various clay ovens, including my "bread machine".

   

   

   

   

   

   

   alexsrb.livejournal.com

In villages and suburban dwellings, you can see stoves made of clay. Previously, peasants manually made the mentioned structures for heating and cooking. However, even now people are building compact and inexpensive stoves. In addition, you can build them yourself from ordinary building materials. The article describes in detail how to make an adobe oven with your own hands.

Design characteristic

Owners of household plots and villagers are still building Russian adobe stoves with their own hands. The heating device can be placed not only on the street, but also inside the dwelling. In addition, often such a stove is used as a boiler for a bath, and if you need to decorate a garden, then it can be done in decorative style with drawings made by hand. The main advantage of the design is low cost, and other advantages include the following parameters:

1. Small size.
2. Environmentally friendly - the stove is made from natural building materials that do not harm environment. In addition, harmless raw materials are used for the firebox (firewood, peat, straw, and so on).
3. Low cost - the structure can be made from materials that do not have to be bought in a store. Clay and sand are the main elements for making a stove. The main thing is to mix the solution correctly.
4. Fast erection and easy operation. However, before you make a clay oven, you must carefully study the instructions.
5. Practicality - the design can be used not only as heating equipment, but also for cooking, drying clothes and as a bath boiler. In addition, it is an original decorative element with which you can decorate the garden.

But there is also a drawback: a lot of clay is needed to build a furnace. To obtain correct solution you have to know how to mix it. That is why the manufacture of the structure begins with this technological process.

Solution: general information

To create a Russian clay oven, you will have to knead the solution by hand. All that is required to complete this process is to strictly follow the instructions with which you can get the right consistency. If this condition is violated, then the fat content of the clay will not correspond to the characteristics that are necessary to create the structure. The only thing that is known for sure is that there is no ideal proportion, so you have to experiment a little.

To prepare a clay solution, you will need the following components:

• sand;
• clay;
• water.

The finished solution must be durable and with minimal shrinkage. As a rule, the more sand is added, the higher the clay composition shrinkage and the lower the resistance of the finished furnace. Therefore, it is necessary to correctly combine all the components to obtain the optimal mixture.

Experts recommend that you first make a little test solution for the construction of an adobe furnace. If a reliable temporary structure is obtained from the resulting mixture, then the construction of equipment in full size can begin.

However, you need to know: to reduce shrinkage, you need to add as much as possible less water.

The initial stage is the preparation of the solution

Builders recommend using components in a ratio of 2: 1 to create a mixture, where the first indicator is the content of fine-grained sand, and the second is clay. Before preparing the solution, you need to know exactly how much composition is needed to make the furnace. As a rule, for laying a medium-sized structure, approximately 3.5 m 3 of a clay-sand mixture is needed.

It is necessary to prepare the solution in a special wooden container, upholstered in tin, in which the clay must be soaked for two days. After this time, sand must be added to the solution. The resulting mixture will have to be stirred with your feet until you get a thick mixture without lumps of clay. Large fragments can be crushed with a shovel or hoe. If, as a result, large clots remain in the solution, then they will have to be pulled out and broken by hand.

To prepare the solution, add an amount of water equal to ¼ of the volume of clay. The main thing is to use high-quality liquid. It can be river or rain water. As a result, a plastic mixture should be obtained, from which an adobe oven will be erected.

Checking the quality of the solution by drying

This method is a good option determining the readiness of the mixture. To check the fat content of the solution by drying, you need to perform a few simple steps:

1. Knead the clay with water until thick, and then soften the lumps with your hands, if any. Next, you need to roll a small ball from the resulting mixture and put it between two flat boards.
2. Slowly squeeze the lump until cracks appear on it.

To determine the fat content, it is necessary to take into account the degree of compression of the ball and the shape of its breaks. Normal is the solution in which the round lump begins to crack when squeezed by 1 ⁄ 3 of the original diameter.

Clay oven: base construction technology

After preparing the solution, it is necessary to start building a strong foundation. For its organization, it is necessary to perform such simple technological work:

1. Dig a pit, the depth of which should be at least 25 cm, and make its width 10 cm larger than the base.
2. Pour the resulting recess with clay mortar.
3. Lay a layer of stones.
4. Fill the pit again with the mixture.

it simple technique making a solid foundation.

Formwork installation

For its manufacture, the masonry must be raised approximately 20 cm from the surface of the earth. The top layer is laid out with a thick clay mortar, after which it is necessary to lay a waterproofing material on it (for example, roofing felt or plastic wrap).

The final stage of this process is to fix planed boards 25 cm thick on top, which must be laid crosswise. It is necessary to build several such layers.

Furnace assembly

The main part of the device can begin to be erected when the base and formwork are fully strengthened. First, stones must be laid on the foundation, which must be connected with clay mortar. The recommended height of this structural part of the oven is about 20 cm. An important point: the upper 5 cm must be made only from the mixture.

The next step is to install on the hearth the outer part of the formwork from boards knocked into a strong box, the dimensions of which should be 60 x 120 x 140 cm. After that, you need to build inside, while leaving a hole measuring 20 x 20 cm. It will be needed later to burn the formwork. When these works are completed, it is necessary to wedge the outer boards with stakes so that the structure does not deform during use.

The space between the sticks must be filled with clay mortar, but before that, you need to secure the hole from the mixture. To obtain a dense layer, it is necessary to carefully compact it. It is better to strengthen the corners with reinforcement, which must be placed 10 cm above the inner formwork. The diameter of the metal rods must be at least 10 mm.

The prepared structure should harden in a week. This time is enough to result in a strong adobe oven. However, after three days, it is necessary to remove the outer part of the formwork, and then cut out the mouth of the structure with the following dimensions:

• height - 32 cm;
• width - 38 cm.

Then you need to remove the protective board through the resulting hole, which should be made in the form of an arch.

The final stage - drying and finishing the structure

If the previous work was done correctly, then at the end it is necessary to give the furnace a finished look. The structure should be erected only in warm weather, since it will dry for a long time if the temperature is low outside. In summer, this process will take a week, but this time directly depends on the quality of the solution and the amount of water added.

However, there are some tricks with which you can reduce the drying time of the structure. To do this, it is necessary to kindle a weak fire in the oven for 30 minutes, but no more. This procedure must be done several times a day. In addition, the masters say: the longer the structure dries, the better it will be. If you need to speed up this process, you can kindle a fire, but it is better to wait until the furnace device hardens on its own.

Don't forget to make additional elements: spatula and damper. You can make these accessories from wood. The task of the damper is to close the mouth. A board for a shovel is recommended to be made 25 mm thick.

To make an adobe oven more beautiful with your own hands, you need to whitewash it. For these purposes, you can use ordinary materials, for example, chalk or lime. In addition, patterns are sometimes drawn on the surface of the structure using watercolor paints.

Operating rules

The formwork inside the furnace must be set on fire. If this is not done, then otherwise it will not be possible to extract it. Such actions must be carried out carefully, because due to careless handling, the structure may crack or even collapse. If, nevertheless, defective places appear, then you can repair the adobe stove. As a rule, for this, cracks must be expanded and simply covered with a solution. If all the described actions are done correctly, then you can safely kindle a fire.

Initially, the structure should be heated for about 2 hours. Dry firewood can be used as raw material. The stove from burnt firebrands should be cleaned with a poker. After the device must be tightly closed and wait 20 minutes. During this time, the temperature inside the structure stabilizes, so you can put food in it, which will evenly warm up from all sides.

Conclusion

The article described technological process making clay ovens. This device can be made independently, but the main thing is to follow the instructions with which the construction of the structure will not take much time. In addition, you will need a minimum of tools and materials. If a person has minimal building skills, making a stove is an easy task for him.