There can be many reasons for poor seedling growth. This includes the wrong choice of planting material used, poor-quality care, errors in choosing a planting site and performing this work, damage to trees by various infectious and bacterial diseases.

The gardener needs to provide young trees with comprehensive care, which will guarantee their excellent rapid growth, and country garden will allow you to get excellent harvest. With proper care, growing pear seedlings is not difficult.

If a young pear has problems with growth, and the foliage must be examined for damage to the tree by various fungal and infectious diseases. The presence of such diseases can be determined by pear leaves, on which there will be numerous small dots. AT this case it is required to carry out appropriate treatments of trees with various fungicides, which will help to cope with the existing problems.

The gardener should pay attention to the position of the root neck. It is not uncommon for a tree to deepen slightly in soft ground, causing the root collar to run underground. Remember that such a neck should without fail be at ground level. Whereas if it is deepened into the ground or located at a height of 5 centimeters or more from ground level, this can lead to slower growth and death of plantings.

Beginning gardeners when growing pears do not provide the trees with the necessary care. And without such care, the pear does not grow and does not bear fruit. A young seedling will require frequent loosening of the surface layer of soil, removal of weeds, fertilizing with various mineral complexes and abundant watering. Only in the case of complex care will it be possible to ensure the correct, intensive growth of the tree.

A mature tree grows poorly

Problems in the formation of shoots on a pear tree and the slow growth of a tree can be explained by insufficient feeding of plantings, as a result of which the tree simply does not have enough vitality for rapid growth. In this case, small underdeveloped leaves may appear on the pear.

Remember, for feeding trees, it is necessary to use both complex mineral compounds and organic fertilizer.

If organics are applied mainly in the fall, then phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are best applied in the spring and several times in the summer during the growing season. This will provide the tree with the nutrition it needs, and, consequently, the pear will grow quickly and bear fruit well.

A common cause of slow growth and problems with new growth is lack of or improper pruning of trees. Many gardeners often neglect such an agrotechnical procedure, mistakenly believing that pruning a pear slows down its growth.

However, in reality, the pear, in the absence of pruning, begins to form a crown, which has excessive thickening. As a result, numerous fungal diseases appear, the pear grows incorrectly, and the rate of formation of new shoots slows down significantly.

Pears are quite capricious and whimsical fruit crops, which only with proper care can guarantee the gardener an excellent harvest. We will tell you in more detail how to grow pears properly.

Many gardeners are interested in whether it is possible to grow a pear in the country from a seed. This allows you to save on the purchase of expensive varietal seedlings. However, this method of pear propagation has certain disadvantages. First of all, this is a significant increase in the timing of the onset of fruiting. If, after planting seedlings in the garden, the first grown crop can be obtained in the fourth year, depending on the particular variety, then it usually takes at least 6-7 years from planting seeds at home to receiving the first crop already in the garden.

You should also take into account the fact that many tasty pears, the seeds of which the gardener plans to use to grow seedlings, are hybrids. Subsequently, when grown from seeds, such hybrids often do not retain their taste characteristics, and it will be difficult to get a good harvest from them.

If you are confident in the grade of the seeds you use, and the prospect of getting a crop 2-3 years later does not scare you, then you can grow a pear from a stone at home, which is subsequently transplanted into the garden to a permanent place. It is best to grow such pears from seeds at home in small pots with fertile soil. Bones are planted in fertile soil, to which a small amount of humus and mineral fertilizers are added.

Before planting, the seed used is best stratified in the refrigerator for several months. After the stratification procedure is completed, the seeds are treated in growth stimulants, which will accelerate the subsequent germination.

After planting the seeds in pots, the first shoots may appear in a few weeks. Care for such seedlings consists in their regular watering and feeding them. mineral compositions. In such pots, a seedling at home must be grown for about a year, during which time several transplants of a young tree into larger pots have been completed.

As soon as the seedling has the first cotyledon leaves, it can be transplanted into the open ground in the garden. Subsequently, with proper care, the grown tree can begin to bear fruit 5-6 years after it is planted.

We grow a pear from a branch

There are several ways to grow a pear from a branch. For example, the technology of aerial roots is possible, when a package with earth is tied to a branch on a tree, and after a while the first aerial roots. Subsequently, the branch is cut and rooted in the garden.

It should be said that such agrotechnics of cultivation, despite the apparent complexity, makes it possible to obtain viable cuttings, they subsequently actively grow and bear fruit abundantly.

It is also possible to root green cuttings that are cut directly from a growing tree. In this case, cut shoots must be treated with a growth stimulator, and then planted in a pot with fertile soil. The gardener needs to regularly moisten the soil, and soon the branches will have full roots. After the appearance of the root system, the shoots can be transplanted already in open ground to a permanent place.

Where do pears grow

Today, the pear is one of the most common garden crops. Fruit trees grow successfully various types soils, with proper care, allow you to get an excellent harvest. It should be said that pear trees are not so demanding on the quality of the soil and its fertility indicators, so pear cultivation is possible in most areas.

However, the pear, due to the peculiarities of the root system, does not grow well in areas where there is a high level of groundwater. That is why it is still not recommended to choose low-lying areas for planting pears.

PEAR VARIETIES for middle lane Russia

summer varieties

DESSERT ROSSOSHANSKAYA Versatile, fast-growing, fruitful, winter-hardy variety. Relatively resistant to scab. Self-infertile. The crown is wide-pyramidal, rare. The fruits are large, weighing up to 200 g, greenish-yellow with a slight blush. The funnel and saucer are wide. The peduncle is thick, curved. The pulp is white, average density, juicy, gentle, fragrant, good taste.

Read more: Pear varieties for the middle lane: photo, name, description

CHILDREN'S One of the most early varieties. The fruits do not ripen at the same time. Winter hardiness is high, the ovaries are resistant to frost. The tree is vigorous, but with a compact crown. Fruits weighing up to 80 g, bright yellow with an orange blush. There is no funnel, the saucer is small. The stem is short. The pulp is creamy, tender, semi-oily, juicy and very tasty.

LADA A versatile fast growing variety. Winter hardiness and productivity are high, resistant to scab. The tree is medium-sized, the crown is conical dense. Fruits weighing 100-120 g, light yellow with a red blush. There is no funnel, the saucer is narrow. A peduncle with an influx. The pulp is yellowish, tender, juicy, tasty and fragrant.

ORLOVSKAYA SUMMER Versatile, fast-growing and productive variety with annual fruiting. Winter hardiness is average, relatively resistant to scab. The tree is tall, the crown is wide-pyramidal of medium density. The fruits are large - weighing up to 250 g, greenish-yellow. There is no funnel, the saucer is small. The stem is long and thick. The pulp is white, dense, semi-oily, juicy, tasty, with a slight aroma.

Autumn varieties

BERGAMOT MOSCOW Universal grade. Winter hardiness and productivity above average. Scab resistant. Crown broadly oval, sparse. Fruits weighing 150-160 g, rounded, smooth. The skin is yellowish-green with large, well-marked subcutaneous dots. The integumentary coloration is weak, pinkish. Funnel deep medium width. The saucer is wide ribbed. The peduncle is short, thick, straight. The pulp is dense, juicy, with aroma. The taste is good, sweet and sour.

VELESA Productive winter-hardy variety, and the ovaries are hardy to frost. Disease resistant. The tree is medium-sized, the crown is pyramidal, drooping. Fruits weighing 120-150 g. The funnel is wide, the saucer is small, wide, smooth. The skin is yellowish green with a slight orange tan. Subcutaneous dots are barely visible. The pulp is semi-oily, creamy, very tender, juicy and tasty.

ESENINSKAYA Universal early autumn variety. Productivity is high, resistant to scab. The tree is medium. The crown is pyramidal, dense. Fruits weighing about 140 g, smooth, yellowish in color with an orange blush and large red subcutaneous dots. The funnel is very small, the saucer is wide and shallow. The stem is curved. The pulp is creamy, semi-oily, medium density. The taste is sweet and sour with a slight nutmeg aroma.

BEAUTY CHERNENKO Harvest table variety. Winter hardiness is average, resistant to scab. The crown is narrow-pyramidal rare. The fruits are large - up to 200 g, golden yellow with a red blush. The funnel is small, the saucer is small and wide. The stem is long and thick. The pulp is tasty, juicy, melting in the mouth.

MURATOVSKAYA Table productive grade, winter-hardy and resistant to scab. The tree is medium-sized, the crown is broad-pyramidal of medium density. Fruits weighing up to 150 g are greenish-yellow in color with a blush. There is no funnel, the saucer is narrow. The stem is short and thick. The pulp is dense, juicy, semi-oily. The taste is sweet and sour, the aroma is weak.

MEMORY OF ZHEGALOV Fast-growing universal winter-hardy variety. The yield is average, resistant to scab. The crown is wide-pyramidal, medium-dense. Fruits weighing about 120 g, the color is greenish-yellow with rusty subcutaneous dots. The funnel is narrow, the saucer is wide, ribbed. The pulp is dense, juicy, semi-oily, sweet and sour, tasty and fragrant.

CHIZHOVSKAYA Early-growing universal variety with an annual yield. Winter hardiness is high, resistant to scab. The crown is oval of medium density. Fruits weighing up to 120 g. The color is yellow-green with subcutaneous dots, the blush is weak. The funnel is narrow, the saucer is small. The stem is short. The pulp is dense, juicy, sweet and sour, semi-oily, very tasty.

A real tree can be grown from a pear stone - the same as from a seedling. True, for this you will have to fulfill the difficult conditions of preparation, selection of seeds, and also be patient - a pear from a stone (seed) at home grows much longer than a young seedling.

At home, a tree is usually planted in a specially prepared, voluminous pot. The bones are prepared in advance, washed, stratified. Subsequently, when the seeds germinate, the first leaves appear, you will need to take care of transplanting the crop into a larger container. Well, if you seriously set out to grow a pear from a stone, this article will be useful to you.

Material preparation

It takes quite a lot of time to grow a pear from a stone - it will only take several months for the seeds to germinate. But one fruit can give several seedlings at once - this will be the main reward for patience. How to grow grapes from the seed will tell.

Seed selection

In late autumn or winter, cut a ripe pear with a sharp knife. Carefully remove the seeds from the fruit and then place them in a small bowl. Add clean hot water (but not boiling water) to rinse the planting material well. Then you will need to determine the germination of seeds, for which they germinate in the sand.

The easiest, fastest and surest way to check the planting material is staining with a solution of indigo carmine. During the day, the seeds are soaked in water, then the skin is removed from them with a needle, the seeds are lowered into a solution of indigo carmine (2 g per 1 liter of water is enough). In the solution, the planting material will need to be kept for 3 hours, then it is removed and carefully examined. Viable healthy seeds should not be colored in the solution, but non-viable seeds that have lost their germination will completely or partially change color.

Seeds are harvested strictly from ripe fruits, because only in this case they are formed.

Proper development of the fetus is the key to full-fledged seeds. The underdevelopment of the fruit is usually an indicator of the underdevelopment or complete absence of seeds in it. The best planting material is formed in the fruits located from the peripheral part of the crown. This is due to the best conditions for the fertilization of the ovaries and good lighting fruits.

Evaluate not only the degree of maturity, but also the quality of the pear - if it has spots, damage, symptoms of diseases, the specimen will not be suitable for reproduction.

Training

Washing must be done without fail, otherwise traces of pulp and juice will remain on the bones, which, during stratification, will act as a substrate for microorganisms that cause the death of seedlings. When you finish washing, dry the seeds for a day. Carefully inspect the shells - they must be integral, otherwise, during stratification, the planting material will begin to rot. Until stratification, the seeds must be dry. In natural natural conditions the seeds do not sprout in autumn, and begin to germinate only after exposure to low temperatures in winter. If seedlings appear in autumn, they will die in winter.

Stratification

When the seeds dry, rinse them and put them in a damp piece of gauze. When the grain is ripe, it will be possible to plant it in a pot. At first, a very small container will do, but later it will need to be replaced with a larger one. For active germination, seeds need air, moisture and low temperature. Remember that correctly performed stratification largely determines the quality of bone germination in the future.

Preparing for planting (reproduction)

Now consider the procedure for preparing the bones for planting:

1. Planting tank selection- use a ceramic or clay pot 10-12 cm in diameter. It will need to be filled with a layer of drainage, covered with sand on top, and then with a layer of nutrient humus. The optimal depth of burying seeds is 4-5 cm. For planting pear seeds, you can also use biodegradable peat pots installed in plastic trays.
2. Soil selection- pour drainage into the prepared pot, add clean sand on top, and then make a layer of nutritious humus. As soil, you can use garden soil or purchased soil for seedlings.
3. Choice of fertilizer- when you make a small hole in the ground, add 1 kg of superphosphate into it. Then add 30 g of humus and 1.5 kg of lime, gently straighten the roots, sprinkle them with earth, tamp well and spill with water.

You can familiarize yourself with the features of growing apple trees from seeds at home.

A plastic tray and peat pot is a good option for growing pear trees with their branchy seed-root system.

Planting and growing (breeding, which variety can be grown from seed at home)

To determine the germination, you can germinate the seeds in the sand or, as we wrote above, stain them with a solution of indigo carmine. Non-viable seeds that have lost their germination are colored completely or partially (only the germinal part). Do not take seeds from unripe fruits, as they are not formed, do not have a normal shade. The underdevelopment of fruits is also in most cases an indicator of underdevelopment or complete absence of seeds.

The best seeds are formed in fruits that grow on the periphery of the crown - if possible, consider this moment. This is due to the optimal conditions for the fertilization of flowers and their good illumination. You can learn about how a pear is pollinated from.

The species characteristics of the seed type of reproduction of pears are fully supported.

flushing seed is also required. If it is not done, juice and pulp will remain on the shell, which can give erroneous results of the germination test, or even cause the death of seedlings in the future.

After washing, the seeds are dried for two days and examined for damage - if the shell is defective, the seeds will begin to rot and, accordingly, will not sprout. Before stratification, the bones are stored dry. Seeds in vivo fruit in autumn do not sprout - so be patient and wait.

During spring sowing, the seeds are necessarily stratified. Yes, you can lower dry seeds into the ground, but they will sprout not earlier than in a year. That is, stratification is an important part of the preparation of seeds, which is responsible for their normal and fairly fast germination.

Also, before it, it is recommended to mix the seeds with loose material and moisten well. As a loose material, use crushed peat or clean river sand at the rate of 3-4 parts per 1 part of the bones. Moistened peat or sand is mixed with the seeds as carefully as possible - the seeds should not be in close contact, otherwise they will start to mold, which will affect germination in the future.

Place the mixture in pots, and transfer the pots to a cellar or basement with an air temperature of 0- + 5 ° С. For normal stratification, pear seeds need 40-60 days, do not shorten this period, otherwise you will spoil the bones. When the number of hatched seeds reaches 1%, it will be necessary to transfer them to ice or bury them in snow and store them until spring sowing.

Stratification can be replaced by sowing dry planting material directly on garden beds. The embedment depth should be 2-4 cm, the distance between the bones is 10 cm. Too frequent planting, again, is fraught with non-germination.

To improve germination, use cubes, pots or blocks with peat, humus for planting. Good nutrient soils provide the seeds with the micronutrients they need to grow.

Video

Video about growing pears from seeds at home.

findings

1. Planting seed plants, breeding is carried out according to the scheme. You can grow a pear from seeds, the main thing is to act in accordance with the instructions, choose which variety to plant, seed and be patient.
2. In the spring, be sure to do top dressing, preferably nitrogen. During active flowering, the tree is treated with 2% sulfate.
3. Pears have good resistance to, but preventive treatments needed in any case. Spend them using fungicides and folk remedies.
4. Be sure to select seeds before germination, since not all seeds are viable.
5. There is no point in taking seed material from unripe pears - it simply will not germinate. Germination is increased by nutrient soils.

In the southern regions, as a rule, trees are planted in the fall, and in the north - in the spring. For the middle lane, both autumn and spring planting is suitable due to the temperate climate.

• Before as plant a pear spring, it is important to prepare pits for each plant in advance. It is advisable to do this in the fall. During the winter, the landing pits will stand. During this period, the soil will be perfectly saturated with the fertilizers introduced into it, compacted and settled down, in addition, possible pathogens will freeze out in the pit.
• If we consider autumn planting, pits will have to be prepared at least 2 weeks before planting a pear in the fall. In general, the rules and technologies by which young animals are planted do not depend on the time of year or latitude.

You can do the landing work yourself. We offer to do all the work for you: from choosing the perfect place to planting a plant. Professional gardeners will create ideal conditions for survival of each plant.

Free planting material

In order to preserve family budget People are always looking for ways to save money. That is why we will consider how to plant a pear tree at home without paying a penny for planting material. Agree - sounds tempting!

To begin with, you only need to get the fruit of a pear tree (from neighbors, friends or relatives). Go visit, praise someone else's garden and you will certainly be treated! Let's assume that you already have a favorite fruit. Now we will tell you how to plant a pear from a stone. First of all, you need to very carefully remove the seeds and rinse them. As soon as there are no traces of pulp or juice left on the bones, dry them with a regular paper towel. We shift the material into glassware and store until the next stage - stratification.

There are two ways how to plant a pear from a seed, depending on the stratification options (natural or artificial):

1. Sow the seeds in the soil for the winter. There they naturally stratify and begin to emerge in the spring.
2. Sow the seeds in wet sand and take them to the basement (cellar). So they should stand for about 3-4 months. Keep the sand moist. Plant the seeds in the ground in the spring.

You should not sow only 1-2 seeds, the more seeds fall into the soil, the higher the chance of seeing a healthy seedling in a year or two. You can see the ideal young growth below, also the pictures perfectly show how to plant a pear (photo).

Are there any downsides to planting seeds? The answer is unequivocal - yes: (Before planting a pear at home from a stone, remember: you will see seedlings ready for transplanting to a permanent place only after two years. It would seem that it’s okay, you can wait for “just like that”. However there is a second, not particularly pleasant moment: there are no guarantees that a tree of the variety you need will grow.You may well acquire a wild game, and find out about it only when the plant begins to bear fruit (in a few years).

pole trees

Now let's tell how to plant a columnar pear. Recently, tree-columns have become familiar guests in all yards. They produce excellent fruit and at the same time take up little space.

When planting columnar young growth, special attention should be paid to the area, or rather its future. To clarify, all plants adore sunlight and do not tolerate too close neighborhoods with other trees. So, in order to determine where and how best to plant a pear, it is necessary to analyze how much the area will change in 5-10 years. The fact is that a sunny clearing may well become a “shadow zone” if vigorous trees actively develop next to it.

To determine how and where to plant a pear, it is advisable not only to analyze the future development of the garden, but also to maintain at least a minimum distance between plants. Columnar trees can be planted in 1-1.5 m increments. This is the minimum for effective fruitfulness and quality yield.

How to plant a pear video

On the northern border of the range, only the most winter-hardy pear varieties can grow and bear fruit, grafted onto stable rootstocks adapted to local climatic conditions. To increase the frost resistance of the most high-quality pear varieties bred in recent decades by research institutions of the Non-Chernozem zone of the RSFSR, it is possible to graft them into the crown of such skeleton-forming varieties as Tonkovetka, Limonka and Summer Bergamot. However, nurseries produce very few pear seedlings, which leads to a steady shortage of planting material and puts gardeners who want to grow this valuable fruit plant in their backyard in a difficult position.

Fruit growing involves knowledge of the basic methods of growing fruit plants, therefore, even if it is impossible to purchase pear seedlings, gardeners should strive to grow them themselves for their site. And although this will require mastering a number of specific surgical operations used in nursery breeding, and for a long time, in the end this hard work will pay off with moral and material satisfaction when receiving the expected fruits.

If an amateur gardener has firmly decided to follow our advice, then he must take care in a timely manner of acquiring seeds for growing pear rootstocks. Seedlings of Tonkovetka, Limonka and Bergamot summer varieties, as well as local semi-cultivated forms, can be taken as vigorous and fairly stable rootstocks. You can also use winter-hardy forms of forest pear, some trees of which are found in the forests of the northwestern region of the Non-Black Earth Region. And although the frost resistance of the root system of seedlings of these varieties and wild pear is less than that of the forest apple tree and cultivated varieties derived from it, with a stable snow cover, the root system of the pear freezes out very rarely, as it is able to tolerate a decrease in temperature in the root layer down to minus 10. 12°C. Do not allow lower negative temperatures in the soil it is possible by autumn mulching or by increasing the layer of snow under the crown of a tree in winter.

The biological feature of pear seedlings is the weak branching of its roots, especially in the upper soil horizons, therefore, when growing rootstocks, a number of techniques are used to eliminate this drawback. A common disadvantage of pear rootstocks grown from seeds of cultivated, semi-cultivated and wild forms is their vigorous growth, as a result of which the trees reach large sizes and become inconvenient when caring for them and for harvesting. However, this disadvantage can be eliminated by periodically reducing the height of the trees.

The use of rootstocks. Along with traditional rootstocks, a number of other crops can be used as medium and low-growing rootstocks.

Quince Northern. Received by I. V. Michurin as a result of many years of breeding work. It is a real dwarf rootstock for pears. It can be successfully used in amateur gardening in the North-West of the Non-Chernozem Strip. Long-term observations of the Department of Horticulture of the Leningrad Agricultural Institute (LSHI) showed that in the last 25 years there has been no case of freezing of the root system of the northern quince, although its above-ground part was affected almost annually to the level of snow. Despite the fact that this variety was bred more than half a century ago and, according to I. V. Michurin, gardeners should pay serious attention to its cold resistance and endurance to a dry location and the suitability of the variety to serve as a dwarf rootstock for a molded pear culture in the middle and partly in the northern zone of Russia, this could not be done for a long time due to the very weak hardening of layering and lignified cuttings when vegetative propagation. y Wide prospects for the use of northern quince as a dwarf rootstock opened up in connection with the development of the method of green cuttings, in which a real possibility of its mass reproduction appeared. So, in the experiments of the department of fruit growing of the Leningrad Agricultural Institute and the department fruit crops VIR with green cuttings of this culture in 1985-1986. its rooting rate reached 85-91%. A year after planting in the nursery, rooted green cuttings reached normal sizes and were approaching budding in mass.

You should not graft a pear on seedlings of Japanese quince (Chenomeles), since it practically does not take root on it.

Irga. As a low growing pear rootstock

you can take irgu spiky, and round-leaved. They are

characterized by high frost resistance, undemanding

soil, tolerate waterlogging and: short-term

drought, which allows the irga to grow and bear fruit in

the most extreme conditions on a vast territory

rii of the European part of the country.

I. V. Michurin also drew attention to this culture as a pear rootstock. He noted their strong fusion and more dwarf growth of grafts than with grafting on quince. Many years of experience of gardeners in various regions of the country confirmed this. So, K. N. Korshunov (Kalinin region) has been growing pear on shadberry for more than 30 years, noting the dwarf growth of grafted trees and even some increase in winter hardiness in such pear varieties as Bessemyanka and William.

Even further north, in the Botanical Garden of the Yaroslavl Pedagogical Institute, A. N. Sagolov positively assessed the irga as a rootstock for a pear. Checking the shadberry by IA Glebov (Tambov region) showed a high survival rate of pear eyes when grafted onto shadberry. The pear variety Bere winter Michurina began to bear fruit in the 4th year after planting, and in the 9th year of each tree, 10 kg of fruits weighing 175-225 g were already harvested. It was found that Bere winter Michurina, Bessemyanka, Blankova's daughter, Sapezhanka and Voronezh Bergamot, badly - Tonkovet-ka, Ilyinka and Russian Malgorzhatka.

When grafting a pear on a shadberry, a more or less significant influx is almost always observed at the grafting site, which, however, does not weaken the mechanical strength in compatible combinations of a scion with a rootstock. Since the irga below the grafting site is much thinner and more flexible than the trunk of a pear, the grafted plants, as on any other dwarf rootstock, should be tied to a support.

The pear on the irga reaches a height of 2.5 m, that is, it is typical dwarf plant, and its fruits, depending on the environmental conditions of cultivation, may have good or satisfactory quality.

Black chokeberry. This is a perennial shrub 2-3 m high. It is used as a fruit crop with a wide area of ​​cultivation. large areas industrial plantings of chokeberry are available throughout the North-West of the Non-Chernozem region. It is a very photophilous plant. The thermal factor does not limit its cultivation. The winter hardiness of the root system of this crop is approximately the same as that of dwarf apple rootstocks, that is, its damage is possible when the temperature in the root layer drops to minus 12 ° C. During short-term cooling, a layer of snow of 15-20 cm reliably protects the roots from damage. Chokeberry - mountain ash is moisture-loving, the climate of the Non-Chernozem zone fully meets its requirements. Many years of gardening experience has shown that this crop is a dwarf pear stock. Grafting a pear on its seedlings is easy, but 2-year-old plants must be used, since in the 1st year they do not reach the desired size. When growing pears on. chokeberry should be systematically removed numerous basal shoots, and the trunk should be tied to a support.

Noteworthy is the report of the gardener P. Orekhov about the successful use of chokeberry as a rootstock for pears in the vicinity of Riga. In 1974, cuttings of the Forest Beauty pear were grafted on 5-year-old chokeberry plants at a height of about 50 cm from the soil. length 1 m. In the spring of the following year, pear varieties Colette, William, Forest Beauty, Bergamot red, Bergamot Lubeck, Bergamot Esperena, Bere Kurzeme and Marianna are grafted onto 3-year-old seedlings of chokeberry. Vaccinations went well, there was a strong increase. The extra branches of the rootstock were removed in a timely manner, and next to the grafts, the unattached branches of the chokeberry were left to tie up the vigorous pear shoots in order to protect them from wind damage.

All grafted varieties overwintered safely and continued to grow well in 1976, with the exception of Bergamot Lübeck and Bergamot Esperen, which died due to incompatibility with the rootstock. Pear Forest Beauty, grafted on chokeberry in 1974, despite adverse weather conditions, blossomed in 1976 and formed several fruits that did not differ in size and taste from the fruits inherent in this variety

Cotoneaster. For the rootstock of a pear, cotoneaster brilliant is of interest. This plant forms multi-stemmed bushes 2.5-3 m high. Individual trunks have a developed crown and a bare base with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm. The durability of the trunks is 15 years or more. Cotoneaster forms compressed bushes with a dense arrangement of dark green shiny leaves. In the conditions of the North-West of the Non-Chernozem Zone, it is a fairly frost-resistant plant, so it is widely used in ornamental gardening to create hedges and borders.

Cotoneaster serves as a dwarf rootstock. On the. three - five trunks of one plant can grow several varieties of pear in the form undersized bush. Thus, in his book "Private Fruit Growing" (1954), Professor N. G. Zhuchkov reports that the budding of a pear on a cotoneaster was a good success in the experiments of the Leningrad Agricultural Institute. Satisfactory results when grafting a pear onto a cotoneaster were obtained at the Botanical Institute of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR (A. Kelly). According to V. I. Zapryagaeva, positive results were obtained when wild-growing cotoneaster from Tajikistan was used as a rootstock for dwarf pears.

Mountain ash. The tree has high winter hardiness and is of interest as a pear rootstock, especially in the northern regions. The root system of mountain ash lies shallow. Successfully grows on insufficiently fertile lands. The tree reaches a height of 4-10 m.

Rowan as a rootstock for pears was studied for a long time and carefully by the famous gardener K. N. Korshunov (Kalinin region). On the basis of experiments, he came to the conclusion that a pear grafted on a mountain ash at the age of 20 does not exceed 3.5 m, therefore it belongs to medium tall. The compatibility of most pear varieties with mountain ash is satisfactory. Fruiting begins in the 4th year after vaccination. According to him, such varieties as Bere winter Michurina, Bere Oktyabrya, Bere folk, Ilyinka, Sapezhanka and Forest beauty grew better on mountain ash. Satisfactory results were also obtained in the cultivation of Bessemyanka. Mountain ash turned out to be an unsuitable rootstock for pear varieties Tonkovetka, Daughter Blankova, Russian Malgorzhatka, Wine green and Dulya Novgorodskaya.

In a number of cases, when grafted onto mountain ash, there was a slight increase in the winter hardiness of the pear, which ends its vegetation earlier on this rootstock. It is very important that the quality of the fruit, as a rule, does not decrease. According to P. N. Kuzmenko, the fruits of a pear grafted on a mountain ash ripen 7-10 days later.

For compatible varieties, mountain ash is of undoubted interest as a skeleton-former, characterized by good winter hardiness on the northern border of pear cultivation. On the basis of long-term observations of the cultivation of various pear varieties on rowan seedlings, K. N. Korshunov came to the conclusion that this is one of the best low-growing rootstocks in the north of the Non-Chernozem Zone.

Hawthorn. Belongs to an extensive botanical genus with more than 200 species. This plant is characterized by high winter hardiness and is attractive in that it occupies a middle position between tree and shrub species in size. Hawthorn has long attracted gardeners to create hedges and as a rootstock for pears. R. I. Schroeder, one of the luminaries of domestic fruit growing, also thought so. In his opinion, single-seeded hawthorn and chokeberry are suitable for these purposes, and Siberian is not suitable.

A lot of experiments on the use of hawthorn as a rootstock for pears were carried out by K. N. Korshunov. He found that seedlings of hawthorn grow well on sandy soils and are undemanding to the moisture content in it. On this hawthorn, it was possible to grow some pear varieties of the southern assortment and the Central Russian variety Tonkovetka.

Hawthorn as a rootstock for pear grafting was tested by A. G. Klabukov in wild thickets of South Kazakhstan. According to his research, the hawthorn pear plant is not satisfactory enough, although graft failures were rarely observed. When cultivating wild fruit plants in the foothills of the Krasnodar Territory, hawthorn was often re-grafted with pear varieties. It turned out that the strength of fusion and the state of grafting of the same varieties on hawthorn were worse than on Caucasian pear.

I. V. Michurin was skeptical about the use of hawthorn as a rootstock for pears. He believed that grafting a pear onto a hawthorn is advisable only when it is desirable to transfer the pear to its own roots. The different behavior of the pear on hawthorn seedlings and the conflicting views of researchers are due to the fact that the most diverse representatives of this extensive genus were used, among which there are forms promising as medium-sized pods for pear.

Harvesting seeds and preparing them for sowing. For growing pear rootstocks, it is better to use seeds from mother plants growing in the same area where amateur gardeners have collective gardens. It is also advisable to use seeds from areas with a more severe climate. In the North-West of the Non-Chernozem Region, the most common vigorous rootstocks are seedlings of pear Tonkovetka and Limonka, as well as the most winter-hardy forms of wild forest pear and semi-cultivated seedlings, which are sometimes found on household plots in collective gardens.

As medium-sized rootstocks, you can take seedlings of mountain ash and common hawthorn and chokeberry. For growing low-growing pears (dwarf and semi-dwarf) in collective gardens, in addition to rootstocks obtained from green cuttings of northern quince, seedlings of shadberry, chokeberry or cotoneaster are used. Seeds of all these vigorous, medium and dwarf rootstocks (with the exception of Northern quince) can be harvested in almost every region of the Non-Chernozem Zone.

Seeds are harvested from mature fruits when they acquire a brown color characteristic of the species and normal value. For amateur gardening, they are usually removed from the softened fruit by hand. To obtain seeds of shadberry fruits are harvested in July - August, chokeberry-in August - September, mountain ash, hawthorn, cotoneaster and pear - in September-early October.

Pear fruits, pre-washed, crushed and

squeeze the juice, and the resulting pulp, along with the seeds

washed with water. Do the same with rowan fruits.

ordinary and chokeberry and shadberry. From received

juice is prepared by various processed products and homemade

With the fruits of hawthorn and cotoneaster come

Che. After softening, they are crushed and washed. If a

there is no way to wash the pulp immediately after receiving

pulp, then you can scatter it on the table or on the floor on

plastic film or paper or immerse yua

can in a container with cold water.

The seeds are washed on a sieve. For the first washing of pear and hawthorn seeds, a sieve with 8 mm holes is used, and for the second - 2-3 mm. To wash the seeds of ordinary and chokeberry, shadberry and cotoneaster, first take a sieve with holes with a diameter of 5 mm, then 1-2 mm. After such a procedure, the seeds are finally freed from the remnants of pulp and juice, which, during storage and stratification, can become a breeding ground for microorganisms.

When crushing the fruit, care must be taken not to damage the integrity of the seed coats. Damaged seeds during stratification usually rot, which reduces their viability and germination. Seeds separated from the pulp are dried. Due to the special hardness of the seed coats, hawthorn seeds require a longer pre-sowing preparation, so they should be mixed with wet sand or sawdust immediately after separation from the fruit and previously placed in some shady place, maintaining the substrate moisture with periodic watering. In the future, hawthorn seeds are treated in the same way as with seeds of other fruit crops.

Seeds of pear, shadberry, cotoneaster, mountain ash and chokeberry after washing from the pulp are dried to a moisture content of 10-15%. To do this, they are scattered in a thin layer in the shade and systematically mixed. If the weather is rainy, they can be dried in room conditions.

The periodicity of fruiting and the possibility of yield loss due to frost or the massive spread of pests make it advisable to create a rolling stock of seeds and take measures to preserve their viability. The rate at which the seeds lose their germination depends largely on the conditions of their storage.

When stored in seeds, albeit at a slower pace, life processes occur, including respiration. This results in the loss of organic matter. The more intense the breath, the greater their loss. Storage conditions should minimize the consumption of nutrients for respiration.

Freshly harvested seeds during autumn sowing do not require special storage and preparation conditions, it is enough to sort them. Seeds intended for spring sowing retain their sowing qualities well when stored in a dry room with a relative humidity of 50-70%, an air temperature of 16.20 ° C, while their humidity should be 8.5-10%. 'In order to preserve the viability of pear seeds' and other slaughter forms for sowing in the spring, on the 2nd year after harvesting, M. A. Solovyova (1980) recommends placing them in a closed glass dish, the air into which passes through a tube filled with calcium chloride, and maintain a humidity of 10-11%. Dry seeds can also be stored in hermetically sealed glass vessels at a temperature of 3.5°C without calcium chloride.

It is important to know their potential viability both before autumn and spring sowing of seeds. It can be determined by outward signs(sight, smell and taste), as well as methods of staining and sprouting, which are equally available to gardeners. In healthy seeds, the cotyledons are milky white in color, the shell is shiny, the seeds are elastic, they flatten from impact. Vitreousness, yellowness of tissues, musty smell and fragility of seeds that crumble when crushed. re, testify to the loss of their viability.

More objectively, the quality of seeds can be determined by staining. It is based on the different ratio of live and dead cells to aniline dyes (dead cells stain quickly). To do this, use an aqueous solution of indigo carmine in a ratio of 1:500 or 1:1000. Dry seeds are pre-soaked in water for a day, after which their covers are easily removed with a dissecting needle. The peeled seeds are immersed in a solution of indigo carmine for 3 hours. Viable seeds will not stain during this time. Fully colored seeds and seeds with a colored primary root are considered non-viable.

The method for determining the viability of seeds by accelerated germination was developed by M. A. Solovieva at the Ukrainian Research Institute of Horticulture (1980). It consists in the fact that seed coats are removed from pre-wetted seeds and placed in a Petri dish or other dish on damp cotton wool, covered with glass and placed in a room with a temperature of 20. 23°C. Under such conditions, the cotyledons swell, turn green and bloom, and the primary root starts to grow. Germination lasts 15 days and gives a fairly accurate idea of ​​the viability of the seeds of a given crop.

Seeds of fruit species, including those from which various pear rootstocks are grown, being 'fully mature morphologically, do not germinate immediately, but require a certain period of time during which they can reach full physiological maturity.

Under natural conditions, when the seeds fall into the soil immediately after fruit ripening, their preparation for germination in the spring of next year occurs at low positive temperatures in late autumn and in early spring free access to air and moisture.

During the spring sowing period, the seeds of fruit crops are prepared for germination, simulating in artificial conditions those requirements that correspond to them. biological features. The method of preparing seeds for germination in fruit growing is called stratification and consists in the fact that dry seeds of pear, shadberry, mountain ash and chokeberry, as well as cotoneaster are immersed in water. Floated seeds, as lighter ones, are not used, and sunken ones are kept in water for swelling for three days with a constant change of water. At this time, the inhibitory substance contained in the seed coat is washed out.

Swollen seeds are stratified with or without a substrate. In the first case, they are thoroughly mixed with a triple (by volume) amount of loose, moisture-absorbing substrate (clean washed sand, sawdust, crushed charcoal or moss peat) and placed in a box or plastic bag, leaving them open.

The second method (without a substrate) is convenient to use with a small volume and small seeds, such as mountain ash, shadberry and cotoneaster. After two or three days of soaking in gauze, nylon or other cloth bags (with a daily change of water), the seeds are removed and allowed to drain. Then they are transferred to a plastic bag and placed in a box.

Seed preparation during stratification both with and without a substrate successfully takes place in a cellar or refrigerator at a temperature of 2.6°C. During this period, it is very important to monitor the moisture content of the substrate and prevent its waterlogging, as this makes it difficult for air to reach the seeds. Therefore, every 10-15 days the seeds are checked and mixed.

Seeds of fruit crops have a different duration of the ripening period and require different term stratification at low positive temperatures. Seeds of the same crop do not germinate on the same day. This depends on many factors, including the influence of the pollinator, the formation of seeds and their availability of nutrients. The duration of seed stratification is shown in Table 1.

At the end of the stratification period, part of the seeds begin to germinate, but most of them are not yet ready for this. Therefore, the entire batch of seeds should be placed in a refrigerator until they are sown in the ground at a temperature of 0 - minus 1 ° C, where further growth of seedlings will be delayed, and the bulk the process of preparation for germination will continue. Freezing of seeds undergoing stratification should not be allowed, since moist, swollen seeds that are sensitive to low temperatures may die.

Seeds for growing various rootstocks in collective horticulture can be sown directly on well-cultivated and fertilized ridges, and in some cases by nesting, where, after grafting of rootstocks, it is planned to grow pear cultivars.

AT last years growing rootstocks in peat pots became widespread. Promising for these purposes is the use of protected ground.

When growing various pear rootstocks in the open field, both during the autumn and spring sowing periods, it is recommended to place the seeds in grooves. The depth of their embedding varies depending on the size. For mountain ash, shadberry and cotoneaster, it is 1-2 cm, for pears and hawthorn - up to 3 cm.

seeds. In the future, when shoots appear, the extra

plants in the cotyledon phase or the appearance of the first two

dig up the leaves (after abundant watering) and pi

kiruyut. The remaining seedlings, in a row, must defend

from each other by 5-8 cm.

To enhance the branching of the roots follows; their subdra

zat, at a depth of 8-10 cm, when the seedlings will have three

four leaves. If the gardener decided to grow; seeded

pears using the direct method,

then at the place of the planned growth of the tree

blowing to produce a nested sowing of 5-10 seeds per hole, and

further remove less developed seedlings in order to

at the time of grafting, at least

However, in the climatic conditions of the North-West of the Non-Chernozem Zone, it is not always possible to grow standard pear rootstocks in one season. This is especially true for such rootstocks as irga, chokeberry, hawthorn, etc. seedlings of wild and cultivated pear. When growing rootstocks, the method of direct sowing of seeds in protected ground or obtaining seedlings in peat pots under small shelters or greenhouses is highly effective, since this creates optimal conditions for the rapid growth of seedlings.

Seedlings during autumn sowing appear 10-15 days earlier. This provides a significant "run" in the growth of seedlings, which, along with the general favorable conditions allows you to get well-developed standard rootstocks by autumn, suitable for both winter grafting and planting in open ground. In protected ground conditions, an appropriate seedling placement scheme is 25X5 cm.

Emerging shoots are thinned out twice; the first time at a distance of 2-3 cm, when the seedlings form three to five true leaves, the second - after about 10-15 days. The first feeding is given in the phase of initial growth, when the seedlings have five to seven leaves, the second - in the phase of enhanced growth. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied at the rate of 2-3 g per 1 m2. For the timely termination of growth and increase of winter hardiness of rootstocks before digging seedlings, a third top dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in those Hie doses should be given.

Water the plants after each feeding. During the entire growing season, up to digging, to improve aeration and kill weeds, the soil is loosened, each time increasing the depth by 1–2 cm. By the end of the season, it is brought to 10 cm.

The first 1.5 months, the seedlings grow slowly, as at this time there is an intensive growth of the roots. The increase in the above-ground part begins in May and continues in June - July, sometimes until mid-August. The stem of the seedlings thickens until the plants are dug up. As soon as the plants reach a height of 35-50 cm, one should gradually move on to hardening them, reducing the frequency of watering and removing the film cover from the greenhouses.

In late September - early October, leaves are removed from the seedlings, dug up and sorted. Rootstocks intended for winter grafting are stored in the basement, dropping into wet peat or sawdust, for spring planting on a garden plot - dropping into a trench, and so that not only the roots, but half of the trunk is in the ground. In autumn, rootstocks can be planted at the place where pear seedlings are grown.

To speed up the cultivation of pear seedlings, it is recommended to obtain rootstocks with a closed root system in peat pots with a diameter of 8 cm or cubes 7 × 7 cm in size. A mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3: 1 can serve as a substrate. The day before sowing, the seeds are separated from the substrate, the ones that have hatched are selected and placed in 2 pieces. into the recess of the pot. After sowing, the pots are covered with a layer of sand no more than 1 cm and placed in a greenhouse or small-sized shelter. The less developed seedling is subsequently removed. When seedlings reach standard sizes, they can be planted on a site in well-prepared soil without destroying the pot itself. To avoid injury to the root system, this is usually done in September.

Regardless of the place where pear seedlings are grown, the main technological operations, although in different combinations, remain almost constant.

Rootstocks obtained in one way or another can be grafted by budding (eye) or cuttings, or winter grafting can be used. Rootstock care prior to budding is to ensure strong growth to maintain high cambial activity. To do this, rootstocks planted in early spring or the preceding autumn should grow weed-free, in loose, optimally moistened soil. In the event of the appearance of pests and diseases, they are combated. Under normal weather conditions and observing a high agrotechnical background, pear rootstocks become suitable for budding, which can be performed traditional way- insert the peephole (shield) of the variety chosen by the gardener into the T-shaped incision of the bark. At the same time, the bark should well lag behind the wood, the shield should be about 2.5 cm long, and the kidney should be located in its middle.

For a better fusion of the scion (variety) with the stock, it is necessary that the lower part of the shield (under the kidney) be 2-3 mm shorter than the upper one. This will make it easier to insert into the incision and improve fusion at the top of the shield. With insufficiently light separation of the rootstock bark, budding is used in the butt. To do this, a thin strip of bark and wood is cut off on the rootstock and a shield with an eye is placed in this place. Immediately after inserting ^or; applications of the shield, this place is tied up to ensure tight contact between the tissues of the grafted components and prevent the grafted eye from drying out. For this purpose, a ribbon is used polyethylene film. The bandage is applied tightly, the spiral loops are made without gaps so that the shield does not dry out and water does not flow into the cuts in the bark.

When budding, in addition to careful selection of the variety, one should take into account the unevenness of the buds on the scion cuttings. Since the buds in the middle part of the shoot were formed in an environment where the leaf apparatus had already been created and the root system of the plant was fully functional, the largest and most mature shoot buds are located here.

It is more profitable for an amateur gardener to bud each rootstock with two eyes, placing them with opposite sides. After 10-15 days, the survival of the kidneys is checked. Accustomed vaccinations are recognized by the fresh appearance of the shield and the slight fall of the leaf petiole when touched. The revision of the buds is combined with the loosening of the bandages, as the thickening of the rootstock bole continues and the bandage begins to cut into the bark of the plant.

Along with budding, when growing a 2-year-old seedling takes at least 3 years, there is a proven effective method getting the same results a year earlier. This can be achieved by applying a winter vaccination, growing the plant in the 1st year in a protected ground with a closed root system. The main technological methods of winter grafting are that rootstocks are added dropwise to wet peat or sawdust in the fall and stored in the basement at a temperature of 2.5 ° C. Pear cuttings intended for grafting (both selected varieties and skeleton-forming ones) are cut before the onset of frost and stored in the same place as the rootstocks, or under a layer of snow.

From December to March, winter pear grafting is carried out at room conditions, in which improved copulation is mainly used, and with differences in the diameters of the grafting parts, it is done as a butt. The grafted plants are placed in a box, sprinkled with wet sawdust and kept in a room with a temperature of 20C for 10-12 days. 22°C. During this period, the initial fusion of the components occurs. Then the plants are transferred to a room with a temperature of O. 2 ° C and stored

To guarantee the production of standard annual seedlings, by the end of the year, the grafted plants should be planted in polyethylene containers 22 × 25 cm in size, filled with a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3: 1, and placed in protected ground no later than the second half of April.

When the scions reach a length of 10 cm, the grafted plants are fed with a 1% solution of ammonium nitrate or crystallin. Top dressing is repeated every 10-15 days and stopped by the end of June, when the plants reach a height of 75-100 cm. a pit measuring 50-60X40-50 cm.

As for the cultivation of planting material from occluded eyes, after their overwintering, the aerial part of the stock in early spring is completely cut off by eye or by a thorn. In the first case, this is done with a sharp pruner at an angle of about 30 ° so that the cut passes 2-3 mm above the grafted kidney. The place of the cut is covered with plasticine or garden putty.

Both when growing annuals without a thorn, and with a thorn, when the cut is made 15-20 cm above the eye, the goal is to direct all the nutrients of the rootstock to the grafted bud. In the process of growing one-year-olds with a thorn, when the shoot of a cultivated variety reaches a height of 20 cm, it is given a vertical position, tied to a thorn. All wild growth developing on the thorn is regularly removed so as not to weaken the growing cultivated shoot. Thorns are cut out in the fall, when the base of the annual is woody. Good care, including fertilizing and watering, contributes to the fact that. by the end of the growing season, it is possible to grow one-year-old pears suitable for laying the crown next year.

Very important in winter period protect one-year-olds from damage by mice and hares. To do this, it is recommended to wrap the barrel with thick paper or whitewash it with VD-KCh-577 water-based paint.

Overwintered one-year-olds are cut to form a crown, measuring the height of the bole 40-50 cm and leaving 10 internodes above it. In the future, shoots that appear on the trunk are removed in a timely manner, as well as one or two competitors with sharp corners, which are formed from buds close to the continuation shoot. The main shoots for the crown are selected taking into account the accepted system of formation and the characteristics of the pear variety. When removing a five-knot crown, five adjacent shoots are left in it, located through the internode. When forming a sparse-tiered crown, two or three adjacent shoots are located in the lower tier, and the other two - at a distance of 20-30 cm from the tier and from each other. Crown formation continues in two-year-olds. Depending on the conditions, the pear can be grown in the place where it grew and formed, or transplanted.

Pear plants Tonkovetka, Limonka and Bergamot summer, grafted on a vigorous rootstock, it is advisable to use in the future as a skeleton former.

Rules for growing basil from seeds in the open field

The grass got its name from the Greek word, which means "king". It has a bitter taste and mint-pepper aroma. It is a popular spice in Mediterranean cuisine. The famous Italian pesto sauce is prepared on the basis of basil. In France, its combination with tomatoes is a culinary canon. Later in this article we will talk about the proper cultivation of this wonderful herb in the country or garden. Learn how and when to plant seeds outdoors. How to dive, transplant or plant the first shoots.

Ancient history of purple and red basil

People have been using basil for over 5,000 years. Both in cooking and medicine. Basil tea calms the nerves and tones the body. It is drunk to relieve colic in the stomach. It improves the functioning of the liver and gallbladder.

The birthplace of grass is Africa. It appeared in Russia in the 18th century. Then, on its basis, popular tonics and cosmetic masks were made, which are still popular.

Basil in a pot close-up

Description of the bush

Basil is an annual plant with oblong, short-leaved leaves. The stem reaches an average length of 60 cm. The root is branched, located close to the surface. The leaves, like the stem, are covered with hairs. Flowers are white, pale pink. The fruits are dark, similar to nuts, ripen in a group of 4 pieces and remain viable for 5 years.

How many varieties can be planted in the country?

There are many varieties of grass, more than a hundred. Sweet basil is the most popular of them. In Africa, basil grows with blue leaves, called camphor. In Mexico it is cinnamon, and in southeast Asia it is lemon. There is a species with purple leaves. Its aroma is weak compared to green, but for its rich color it is often used in decorating dishes.

Preparing seedlings at home in spring

Seeds are planted in seedlings at the end of March. They are briefly soaked before planting. Enough for two hours in warm water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. For seedlings, containers with a depth of 10 cm or more, pots or flower boxes are suitable. Drainage is laid out at the bottom, sprinkle it on top with soil mixture (proportions 4: 2: 1) from:

Grooves are made in the ground with a depth of 1 cm, in which seeds are placed.. Sprinkle with earth and irrigate from a sprayer, and then cover with a film or glass.

Containers with seeds are cleaned in a warm place. At this stage, it is important to properly care for seedlings:

• once a day, remove the film or glass and ventilate it for a short time (15 minutes is enough)
• remove condensate from the inside
• easy to moisten the ground

basil flower

At the end of May, sprouts germinated at home are planted in open ground. It is important that the plants have 5 formed leaves. Until they appear, landing can be delayed.

Before planting, the seedlings are taken out of the room and left in the open air so that they harden. Start with 15 minutes and gradually increase the time spent outside to several hours. Hardening begins a week before transplantation.

How to plant seeds or seedlings in open ground

Basil dies from low temperatures. Therefore, seedlings are planted in a permanent place when there are no morning frosts. It is best to plant vegetable seeds in the spring in mid-May. You can choose any scheme for crops.

Grass soil needs fertile, air- and moisture-permeable soil. Fertilize the soil before planting. For 1 m 2, 2 kg of humus, peat and compost are added.

Sprouts are planted at a distance of 40 cm from each other, in holes 10 cm deep. Water the holes thoroughly before planting.

You can not plant basil in the same place two years in a row. This will lead to the appearance of brown spots on the leaves and the death of plantings. The reason for this is the disease fusarium. It is caused by fungi that live in the soil for a long time. Between plantings of spicy grass, the soil "rests" for 5 years.

Growing and caring for green shoots of basil in the garden

Basil needs watering with warm, settled water. Experienced gardeners start a large plastic barrel for this. During the day, the water in the barrel will heat up and settle. In the evening it is suitable for watering.

Grass grows well when fed with nitrogen fertilizers.. The first top dressing occurs two weeks after disembarkation.

To increase the green mass of sprouts, in addition to pinching the tops, flowers are cut off on them.

The soil around the plants is loosened and weeded from weeds. During the summer season, 6-7 times is enough. After weeding and loosening, the sprouts are watered abundantly.

Harvesting crops in the garden

Basil leaves are harvested before flowering. Then the concentration of essential oils and vitamins in them is peak. An unripe bud is a sign for collecting leaves.

The grass blooms until the first autumn days. Do not forget that this is a heat-loving plant. Before the onset of the first frost, it is transplanted into a greenhouse or into a house. Grass grows without problems in a pot for indoor flowers. She decorates the house and fills the rooms with a spicy aroma.

Proper drying

After harvesting, the crop is dried:

Readiness is determined manually. Dried herbs crumble easily in the hands. It is kept dry glass jars or paper bags.

basil plant care

Freezing Whole Leaves

They are washed and dipped for 3 seconds in boiling water. Then cool in cold water. A little dried on a towel and laid out in bags in small portions. Then put in the freezer.

Quick freezing chopped leaves

They are washed, finely chopped and poured with water. Water is poured into molds and placed in the freezer. If you use olive oil instead of water, you will get an excellent preparation for frying in a pan.

basil seeds

Basil has long been known to man. It takes pride of place in the cuisine of many countries: Greece, France, Italy and Thailand. In Transcaucasia, he even got his own name - regan.

It contains vitamins:

• C (lowers blood cholesterol levels)
• B (riboflavin, good for the eyes)
• PP (nicotinic acid for the health of the skin and gastric mucosa)

Growing red basil indoors is easy. The plant is unpretentious and requires little care and attention. It can be sown almost half of May. A plant does not always need a pick. In addition, the plant sprouts quickly and grows quickly. Harvesting and harvesting is easy. To diversify the table and treat yourself to the “king” among herbs, it will not take much effort and time.

Growing a pear

Not without reason, among the many garden crops, many gardeners prefer to grow pears.

There are hundreds of varieties of this tree, among which there are many wild-growing and specially bred varieties that differ not only in ripening time, but also in taste.

The pear is propagated using seeds, possibly followed by grafting or ready-made seedlings. The first method is quite complicated and may not give a qualitative result. Seedlings can be purchased from nurseries, or you can dig up the undergrowth at the base of a mature tree.

To grow seedlings, it is necessary to select the best fruits and leave them to ripen before rotting. A similar method will be used to create ground cucumber seeds. Then the seeds are germinated and planted two by two in pots or containers for seedlings and placed in a greenhouse. When sprouts appear, mulching is performed.

The most suitable soil for planting pears is acidic, this allows you to increase the plant's immunity to the most common scab disease, which can destroy not only the crop, but the tree itself. By type, sandy loamy soil is preferable, although clay soil is also suitable.

It is probably not a secret for anyone that the pear is susceptible to cold climates. At the same time, it is precisely the issue of freezing trees in winter that is acute, which means that the site for planting must be chosen south, protected from strong winds.

Planting pears in the ground is carried out in the spring, before the start of sap flow. The dimensions of the landing pit are 100x100x70 cm. Before planting, the soil is moistened with 10-15 liters of water and fertilized with humus. After planting, the soil is also moistened, and then mulching is performed with sawdust or a waste substrate left over from growing strawberries in bags.

Pear care includes regular watering, the lack of which can lead to a low yield. Starting from the second year of growth, it is necessary to prune and form the crown of the tree annually for the convenience of harvesting. In winter, the trunks of young trees must be tied to prevent freezing.

The leaves and fallen fruits of the pear are an excellent component for creating compost using natural farming technology.

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Growing pears from seeds

Is it possible to grow a pear from a seed?



Left: Common pear (botanical illustration).

It is possible to sow, but, most likely, a wild game will grow, it is better to graft from this tree on a stock in the spring, especially since the pear is grafted very well. Alexander Shevchenko

Better yet, learn to graft. Try for rowan, it is full of it everywhere. Fruiting comes faster. Maybe aronia. I had fruit in my second year. Valery Svistunov

Seeds need to be sown either before winter or stratified for several months in the sand. Semi-cultures of an unknown variety will grow. So it's better to instill. Yuri Pozolotin

If you want to be sure to sow, then mix the seeds with wet sand and refrigerate until spring. Then sow in the ground. I usually sow all the wilds before winter (Moscow region). A wildling will grow, on which it will be necessary to graft a varietal cutting. If a seedling is left to grow, then it is not known what quality the fruits will be on it, and it will take a very long time to wait. Elena Akentieva

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Growing pear seedlings



Pear can be propagated by seeds and vegetatively. From the seeds of wild and cultivated pears, rootstocks are grown for grafting various varieties on them. Sowing seeds obtained as a result of artificial crossing or free pollination is also used when breeding new varieties of pears.

Vegetative reproduction(buds, cuttings) is most common in horticultural practice, because it makes it possible to preserve the characteristics of a cultivar grafted on the appropriate rootstocks. Less often, mainly when propagating clonal rootstocks, layering is used.

Seedlings of Central Russian varieties are used as a vigorous seed stock. In home gardens, gardeners can test hardy native seedlings as well as rootstocks of restrained growth. Experienced gardener he can grow seedlings on his own plot. For this, seeds from the fruits of winter-hardy local zoned large-fruited or small-fruited pears used as a stock are best sown in the ground in autumn. Then the natural conditions for their germination will be provided. But the seeds of late varieties are taken out from fruits in the middle of winter. In this case, they must undergo pre-sowing treatment - stratification. Partially, the seeds are stratified in the fruits if the temperature in the fruit storage is sufficiently low. However, in the pulp Inhibitors (substances that inhibit development) act on the fetus, so the seeds taken out of the fruit are soaked for two to three days in running water (to get rid of inhibitors) or the water is changed daily. The swollen seeds are mixed with a triple volume of a moisture-absorbing substrate (using sand, sawdust, peat chips, expanded clay, slag), moisturize. You can put the seeds in open plastic bags placed in boxes. Every two weeks, the seeds are stirred, if necessary, moistened.

Initially, the temperature is maintained at 3 to 5 °C. As soon as the first sprouts appear (after 70 days), the temperature is reduced to 0 or minus 1 ° C (the boxes are buried in the snow or put in the refrigerator) and so they contain the seeds until sowing.

The duration of stratification is determined by the conditions seed formation (from pollination of flowers to removal of fruits, as well as ripening and storage of fruits in the fruit storage); it also depends on the cultivar: for seeds of small-fruited varieties up to 100 days, for large-fruited varieties - up to 130 days.

Seed germination depends on the conditions of seed development, which can be determined, staining the embryos (3 samples of 100 pieces) for three hours with indigo carmine (concentration 1:500 or 1:1000) or simply germinating the seeds in Petri dishes in an accelerated way at a temperature of 20 to 23 °C. Calculate the percentage of germinated (or colored) seeds, find out their germination. The seeding rate depends on the percentage of germination and variety (it varies from 15 to 40 kg/ha). Seeds are sown to a depth of 3 cm (on light soils - up to 4 cm). Distance between plants in a row 8 cm, between rows - 10 cm. In spring, sowing can be started very early. Seedlings during the summer several times (depending on their condition) are fed, watered, periodically weeded. At good development the thickness of their boles by autumn reaches 1 cm (with a pencil). Then in the same year you can start budding(grafting with a “sleeping” bud-eye) and two years later grow seedlings grafted with the desired varieties for planting in the garden.

Budding begins in late July-early August and continues 20 days until the bark on the rootstocks separates well. This is the most common way to propagate pears.

Along with budding, there are other vaccinations: spring grafting with a cutting (for bark, splitting, buttstock, improved copulation, etc.), winter grafting in rootstocks harvested in autumn and stored in the basement.

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Scab of apple and pear.

Planting and caring for pears

The pear is one of the most popular fruit crops grown in garden plots. Currently, many new varieties have been developed that are resistant to scab disease, giving a high yield and winter hardiness. All this greatly simplifies the care of pears.

Temperature regime

In terms of most of its biological characteristics, the pear is close to the apple tree and has similar agricultural practices, however, this tree is more thermophilic and can die in a cold winter. The critical winter temperature for it is -26 C. Pear flowers are damaged at a temperature of -2 ° C. Fruit ovaries can withstand temperatures down to -4 'C.

Planting a pear

When to plant. It is preferable to plant all trees in spring, but in the southern regions, autumn planting of pears can also be practiced. If you plant in the fall, then try to do it at least a month before the onset of frost. Then the seedling will have time to root in a new place. The best time for spring planting is the end of April.

To achieve a good harvest, plant a pear on a hill. Low-lying areas are completely unsuitable for her.

Where is the best place to plant? When choosing a planting site, remember that this plant has a deep root system, which requires nutrient-rich and fairly loose soil. Loamy and clayey soils are considered the most optimal for pears. It is not recommended to plant this tree on heavy clay and light sandy soils.

Pear does not like carbonate, acidic soils and salt marshes. Closely standing groundwater has a detrimental effect on it. When the roots reach this waterlogged layer, they rot and the tree dies. The depth of groundwater should be at least 3 m.

If you plan to plant a pear in the spring, dig a planting hole in the fall, and if in the fall, then 3 weeks before planting.

Try to keep as many roots as possible on the seedling so that the tree survives planting well. You can dip the roots into a potting mix with the addition of a heteroauxin solution. The main requirement when planting seedlings is that there are no air bubbles left in the root zone.

Drive a stake into the center of the planting hole.

Landing holes. If the pear is grafted onto a vigorous rootstock, dig a planting hole 100-120 cm in diameter and 60 cm deep. If the rootstock is dwarf, the hole should be 60-70 cm in diameter and 50-60 cm deep.

If the soil in your area is clay or loamy, add mineral and organic fertilizers to the planting pits. In sandy soil, add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of complex mineral fertilizer (AVA, for example) and 2-3 buckets of rotted manure or compost.

Drive a peg into the middle of the pit, pour fertilized soil over 1/2 of the pit volume. Place the seedling in the hole on the north side of the peg, fill in the hole and make a hole with a diameter of 60-70 cm around the plant.

After planting, do not trample the soil around the seedling. Dense moist soil does not let oxygen through to the roots. It is better to gradually add fertile soil and moderately water the near-trunk circle so that the moist earth fills the voids in the pit and sticks to the roots.

Do not bury the seedling when planting. This inhibits the growth of the tree and the period of entry into fruiting, stimulates the appearance of root shoots. If the planting pit is well filled, two or even three (if AVA was introduced) years of top dressing is not required.

After planting (or when spring arrives if planting in the fall), shorten the center guide and side branches by a quarter or a third if the spring is dry. So you restore the balance between the aerial part and the root system of the seedling that was disturbed during digging.

How to cut pears

Formative pruning on tall trees

In tall trees reaching 5 m, it is best to form a sparsely-tiered crown, since it most closely matches the natural growth of the tree. Pruning is carried out in the first 5-6 years after planting, and in the future, perform only periodic trimming.

As skeletal, choose strongly growing branches. Form 2-3 tiers in the crown, 3-4 branches in the tier. Branches of different tiers should be at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other.

Formative pruning for trees up to 4 m high.

In trees reaching a height of 3.5-4 m, as well as in those that grow in dense conditions, it is preferable to form a crown like a palmette. In this case, place both the main and overgrowing branches in the same vertical plane. Lay no more than 8-12 skeletal branches. The angle of inclination of the lower branches should be about 50? located above - 60-80?.

During the period of crown formation, cut the central conductor annually 40-70 cm above the base of the upper skeletal branch. Do not forget to cut competitive branches, vertical shoots and some of the extra growths in the area of ​​skeletal branches into a ring.

Anti-aging pear pruning

Yields are often reduced in old trees, so it is recommended to rejuvenate them. To do this, cut the skeletal branches at a distance of 1.5 m, removing first of all the dried and diseased ones, as well as those that grow inwards or upwards.

If you give the branches a horizontal direction with the help of bending, they will bear fruit. This is very important in case of severe damage to the main branches. Annual shortening pruning can smooth out the frequency of fruiting.

pear care

Pear care consists of fertilizing, watering and shaping pruning.

trunk circle

Pear care consists of fertilizing, watering and pruning.

The trunk circle also needs to be looked after, because the yield of a pear will largely depend on the condition of the trunk circle. Keep the soil loose and be sure to remove root growth.

Watering pear

Pear does not need too frequent and plentiful watering. Watering is required immediately after flowering, when the ovaries reach the size walnut, after harvest and at the beginning of leaf fall. Water not under the trunk, but along the perimeter of the crown. In hot, dry summers, it is enough to water once every three weeks.

After watering, loosen the soil and mulch it with dry earth, grass or straw to avoid moisture loss from the subsoil.

Pear dressing

In the 1st year of life, the plant has enough fertilizers applied during planting, then mineral fertilizers should be applied annually. organic fertilizers pay 1 time in 3 years. At the same time, 5-10 kg of compost or manure, 30-50 g of superphosphate, 20-30 g of potassium chloride and 10-15 g of urea should fall on 1 m2. Use nitrogen fertilizers in the spring and after the flowering of fruit-bearing trees.

In autumn, apply a full dose of organic, phosphorus-potassium and 1/3 of the norm of nitrogen fertilizers. From April to May, fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers, and in June-July - with phosphorus and potash fertilizers.

When applying top dressing, consider the varietal characteristics of the pear, the composition and level of soil moisture.
It is recommended to fertilize in an annular groove 25-30 cm deep, carefully dug along the periphery of the crown. For attention and careful care, the pear will surely thank you with delicious, juicy fruits.

Pear, like others fruit trees, requires timely spraying from pests and diseases. In late autumn or early spring (before sap flow) - spraying-washing trees with a solution of urea (500-700 g per 10 liters of water). A good preventive measure is spraying once a month from May to August with a solution of epin-extra + zircon preparations.

Wintering pear. A serious test for a pear is winter, especially with little snow, with frosts, thaws, daily temperature fluctuations, and strong winds.

Helps trees to more easily endure winter weather troubles immunostimulants: Epin-extra, Novosil (Silk), Ecoberin.

From freezers and sunburn late autumn whitewashing will protect the trees (2-2.5 kg of lime + 1 kg of clay + 300 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water), and for young trees - wrapping trunks with synthetic light materials: sugar burlap without film, spunbond, nylon tights .

Watch the pear cut video

Dear visitors of the Dachny Plot, tireless gardeners, gardeners and flower growers. We suggest you take an aptitude test and find out if you can trust a shovel and let you into the garden with it.

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Pear from seeds: how to grow at home

To plant a pear in a pot, you need to follow the following rules:

prepare the bone. The seed removed from the fruit must be dried. Then rinse and place on prepared moistened gauze. Then the gauze cloth is covered with glass to create greenhouse effect. The temperature is maintained on the order of +22…+23 °C. After half a month, the first root appears;

prepare the pot for planting. For this, a small container with a diameter of up to 12 cm is taken. The bottom is covered with a layer of drainage, which is covered with a layer of sand. Humus is poured over the sand. Its thickness must be at least 5 cm - a seed is placed at such a depth;

care. Immediately after planting, abundant watering is carried out. It is recommended to use a warm liquid, and direct the jet to the place where the bone is located. The pot is covered with a film for a month. At the same time, regular watering is done;

plant cultivation. When a sprout has appeared, you need to carefully monitor its comfort. A sunny room and no drafts are required. Dry land and cold air temperatures are detrimental to pears. The root system should be in the shade, and the grown branches should be in the sun.

Proper care will result in small ornamental pears if not vaccinated.

How to grow an apple tree from a seed at home, video and photo

How to plant an apple tree from a seed? In order to grow an apple tree from a stone, it is necessary to properly prepare the seed. It is worth emphasizing that the resulting sprout will not be endowed with the qualities of its parents.

But if you take ripened seeds of such apple varieties as Antonovka, Grushovka Moskovskaya or Cinnamon striped, then there is a high probability of getting excellent fruit-bearing seedlings.

Since the seed of such varieties is best suited for this manipulation. As for other apple varieties, experienced gardeners say: you can get a strong tree, but the quality of the fruit will be poor.

Before sowing apple seeds, it is necessary to prepare them, namely:

the bones are thoroughly washed in warm water to get rid of the inhibitor that blocks germination; then, the seed is soaked in warm water for 3 days, while changing the water daily and washing the seeds; on the third day, the water is changed again and a growth stimulator is added to it, in which the seeds should be kept for another day.

For the entire period while the apple seeds are in the water, they will swell well. Then they are taken out and tempered. To do this, you need to simulate the onset of winter. This procedure is carried out as follows: the seed is thoroughly sprinkled with a pre-prepared mixture of moss, sawdust and sand.

Planting apple seeds

Often novice gardeners ask the question of how to grow an apple tree from a branch. This method was used by our ancestors. It implies the removal of a ripe fruit from a branch, from which the seeds are taken out, washed and immediately begin to plant in the ground.

During autumn and winter, the bone acclimatizes, swells and hardens. And with the onset of spring, it will give good and strong shoots. This method is very good and effective, the only thing to consider is that exactly three weeks must pass from the moment the seeds are planted to the onset of the first frost, otherwise the seeds will freeze.

At the same time, it is worth paying attention to one more feature: the branches of the apple tree, from which the seed material in the form of an apple will be taken, must be absolutely healthy.

In specialized nurseries, the cultivation of apple trees from seeds is carried out according to the first option. The seed is first soaked, then stratified, and with the onset of spring they begin to sow into the ground.

An apple tree from a seed at home is grown as follows: first, the soil is prepared, which must be thoroughly enriched. To do this, for every 10 kg of planting land, the following components are added:

50 gr. superphosphate; 25 gr. potassium sulfate; 250 gr. wood ash.

When the nutrient mixture is ready, apple tree seeds begin to be planted. Landing is as follows. At a distance of 30 ml, small holes are made, 20 mm deep.

Then, seeds are sown, which are then abundantly moistened with water. At the same time, make sure that the soil layer above the seeds does not erode. Carry out the landing procedure at room conditions.

When the apple seedlings have grown and a pair of true leaves have formed on it, the sprouts need to be sorted and thinned out. To do this, each sprout is carefully examined, all weak and notorious wild animals are removed. It is necessary to thin out in such a way that a distance of about 7 cm is obtained between the planted sprouts.

It is worth noting that if you want to get a cultivar tree, but you have no idea how to grow an apple tree from a seed, then in this situation you should remove all sprouted sprouts with signs of wildness.

And it will not be difficult to distinguish them, because the wild culture will have small leaves, and thorns can be located on a small trunk. The fact is that such signs are unusual for a varietal culture.