INSTRUCTIONS AND PROPHECIES OF THE Blessed MOTHER ALIPIA GOLOSEEVSKY, Kyiv...
You will need
- - ruler;
- - pencil, pen, marker;
- - paper;
- - protractor;
- - miter box;
- - knife, scissors, jigsaw and other cutting tools.
Instruction
If the surface of the material is large enough to make marks, draw one of the cut lines with a ruler. Then draw a perpendicular to this line using a square or any object with even edges, such as a sheet of paper or a book.
With a ruler, mark equal segments on each side of the corner, for example, 10 cm each. Measure the distance between the points obtained and divide it in half. Connect this point to the top right angle. You got a 45º angle, now cut the material along the drawn lines with scissors, a knife, a jigsaw or other tools.
Mark one of the cut lines, take a protractor and attach to the line. Find the 45º mark on the scale and connect this point to the center of the protractor. Cut the material along the marked lines with available tools.
Cut paper, film, foil or other easily bending material as follows: find or draw a right angle (for a sheet of paper, this is any of its corners). Bend the sheet so that the adjacent sides match. Cut the sheet along the fold line.
If you need to cut a 45-degree corner multiple times, such as when trimming a baseboard, make a template. To do this, take a thick cardboard, draw a square on it and cut it diagonally.
In order to cut materials at an angle of 45º in large volumes, buy a miter box, this tool can be easily found in any hardware store. Insert the skirting board or rail inside as it will be located in the space, and cut it with a knife, jigsaw or other tool.
note
Not always the corners of rooms are exactly 90º, they can often be sharp or blunt. In this case, if you have already cut the skirting board or other material at an angle of 45º, glue it that way, and cover the gap with putty.
In order for the corners of the two parts, for example, the plinth to match exactly, first cut one of them at an angle of 45º, attach it to the repair site and try on the second part here. Draw a cut line with a pencil and cut off the corner along it (even if it differs from the given one, but the design fits perfectly into the space).
Sources:
- how to make a 45 angle
During home repair work materials may need to be cut at a 45 degree angle. This is usually done to connect two parts "in a mustache", that is, with a 90 degree corner (frames, skirting boards, door frames And so on). In order for the result of the work to please you, it is important to absolutely accurately fit the adjacent parts of the workpieces. Do it without special device- miter box - extremely difficult, especially for a novice master.
You will need
- - miter box;
- - hacksaw;
- - wooden blank;
- - protractor;
- - pencil;
- - a clamp or screws and a screwdriver.
Instruction
Prepare an angle template that will help you easily make an accurate cut of a piece of wood at an angle of 45 degrees. This device is a profile in the form of an inverted letter "P"; on its sides through slots for a hacksaw are made. Usually they are located at angles of 45, 60 and 90 degrees. More complex miter boxes are additionally equipped with arbitrary fixed slots, or they have a swivel design - it allows you to set the saw in the optimal position.
Buy ready-made carpentry tools from a hardware store with a wood, metal, or plastic tray. For a beginner, this best option. If desired, you can make a simple miter box from three planed boards or plywood strips (thickness - about 1.5-2 cm).
Drill several holes in the walls of the future miter box, apply wood glue to the ends and assemble the box (tray) of the miter box. Fix the corner template with screws. The walls of the tool must lie strictly parallel to one another; the bottom and each sidewall make up clear perpendiculars.
Mark a 45 degree angle with a pencil, add additional groove lines if necessary. In order not to be mistaken in your calculations, use a protractor.
The most important thing is the cuts. It is recommended to perform them with the same hacksaw, which will subsequently be cut in the finished miter box. Start sawing without strong pressure on the working tool, hold its blade. First cut through one sidewall, then the opposite.
Start processing lumber. Secure the miter box to a workbench or desktop with a clamp (clamps for fixing parts) or screws. Then make a mark for the future cut on the rail (board, plinth) and put the workpiece in the box. Press it firmly against one of the side walls of the template, aligning the marks with the 45-degree angle slot.
Insert a hacksaw into the grooves of the miter box and cut the workpiece. The work of the saw will be limited to fixed cuts and you will get a smooth and precise cut.
When sawing skirting boards, make sure that the corners in the room are really straight. If the walls are very uneven, the angle of cut on the workpieces should be corrected. Measure the joints with a goniometer internal walls and divide the result in half (the joint of the plinths "in the moustache"). To make an accurate cut, it is recommended to make grooves with a given angle in a homemade miter box. Another option is a magazine rotary tool that allows you to change the angle from 0 to 180 degrees in increments of about 15 degrees.
When carrying out repairs and finishing works the apartment requires proper trimming, joining and fitting the angles of various decorative elements, for example, ceiling or floor plinth, as well as sheet materials.
Sometimes you need to cut a particular part or product at a certain angle. As a rule, you need to cut baguettes, fillets, platbands, skirting boards and other similar interior elements at an angle of 45 degrees. Everyone can cope with this task. The main thing is not to rush, not to be nervous and everything will work out.
Buy ready-made corner elements
Of course, the easiest way is not to suffer with trimming a particular part, but to buy a ready-made one that does not need processing and trimming. Such parts and elements are sold today everywhere in large supermarkets or smaller stores.
For example, with regard to baguettes or fillets, they sell special corner elements that fit perfectly into the corner and do not need to be cut. They just need to be glued into place and pressed well.
The method of connecting platbands without trimming
Platbands today are often not cut at an angle, in order to then join each other, but make a joint at right angles. This method of connecting the platbands does not require any special trimming, which is very convenient. In addition, this method looks more modern and attractive.
Cutting at an angle with a miter box
If, nevertheless, it is necessary to cut this or that part at an angle, then it is worth stocking up with a miter box - the simplest device that looks like a small box. The miter box has slots that are designed for a saw or a long sharp knife. Of course, these slots are made in such a way that they form a smooth and precise angle of 45 degrees.
However, the miter box can have many slots at once, at different angles. This is convenient, because with the help of one device, you can cut any part at various angles.
There are adjustable chairs for sale. The slots at such a miter box can be adjusted, which allows the master to set exactly the angle that is required in this moment. In particular, it is quite simple to translate the slots of such a miter box into a position of 45 degrees.
Now the workpiece can be trimmed in an elementary way. A baguette, platband or plinth is placed in the miter box, after which a saw is inserted into the slots and the excess is simply cut off. The angle turns out to be perfect, exactly 45 degrees.
What to do if there is no miter box? Very simple. It is necessary to make a template according to which it will not be difficult to transfer the necessary markup to the blanks. As a template, you can choose thick cardboard or something else that would be appropriate in this case.
Trimming parts at an angle with a protractor
You can cut the part at an angle using a protractor. This is a measuring tool that is easy to use, and which is designed specifically to measure angles or make the necessary markings on certain parts. The protractor is applied to the part, mark the angle and make markings with a pencil. According to this markup, cutting the workpiece at the desired angle is not difficult.
Using Templates
If there is no protractor, miter box or ready-made corner elements available, you will have to look for a suitable template. Of course, the template must have the desired angle. It is applied to the workpiece and the workpiece is marked with a pencil. This is one of the most simple ways achieve the desired result.
Cut in place
Not always the walls, floor and ceiling will be perfectly even in practice. Most often they have irregularities. For this reason, there is no need to cut the workpieces at clear and precise angles, because they still will not fit perfectly.
Instead, it is sometimes convenient to cut the same ceiling plinth local. That is, first they glue one plank of the plinth, cut it in the corner, and cut the second plank under it.
Of course, it is hardly possible to cut off the workpiece perfectly. However, if a small gap appears in the corner, it can always be covered with putty or gypsum plaster. Nothing special.
Video: How to cut the corner of a plinth or baguette without a miter box
There are more than enough tips on how to cut a skirting board at 45 degrees on the net, the only bad thing is that most of them are given by people who have never done this. Next, from a practical point of view, I will tell you how to cut skirting boards at the corners with your own hands in 3 options, and you will learn how to traditional ways, and about folk universal recipes.
The science of how to properly cut ceiling moldings in corners is not as complicated as it might seem.
A few words about tools and materials
Floor skirting boards are now made of wood or polyvinyl chloride (PVC), in other words, plastic. Ceiling fillets have a slightly longer list:
The range of ceiling plinths is much wider than that of the floor direction.
- Polyurethane - these skirting boards have good elasticity and can bend around radial and other curved surfaces, but in any case, they need to be cut at clear angles;
- Foam - the easiest a budget option, the price of foam skirting boards is low and they are very easy to cut;
- PVC - the principle is the same as for floor skirting boards, but the lineup much wider;
- Wooden - similar to the floor, only there are still wide models;
- Gypsum - with the advent of polyurethane and foam, gypsum ceiling fillets faded into the background, firstly, they are heavy, and secondly, fragile. But in fairness, it's worth mentioning them.
Since it is impossible to properly cut the ceiling plinth and its floor counterpart without a good tool, we will dwell on this issue in a little more detail.
The best, almost ideal tool for cutting any skirting boards and not only is a miter saw with a rotary bed. The high-speed disc makes smooth and precise cuts, and the bed in these units rotates to any angle. The only problem is the serious cost of this tool.
A miter saw is almost the perfect tool for cutting skirting boards and more.
Considered to be one of the best hand tools for an accurate cut of small bars - this is a back saw. In principle, this is true, but I’ll tell you honestly, a really high-quality saw, even with the current assortment, is not easy to find. If you still decide to buy such a tool, then take a saw with a fine tooth.
Theoretically, foam and polyurethane can be cut with any sharp and durable knife. But at the same time, you need to have a steady hand and at least a little experience in cutting foam. Plus, cutting wide fillets with a knife is very problematic.
Without experience, making a clear cut with a knife is very problematic.
Personally, in the absence of trimming, I use only a hacksaw for metal. It is suitable for cutting absolutely any material, from foam to wood. By the way, the question is often asked how to cut plastic plinth for the floor, and so - take a hacksaw for metal and you definitely can’t go wrong.
For cutting skirting boards, a hacksaw is considered one of the best tools.
Three ways to cut skirting boards
For floor and ceiling plinths, the cutting instructions are almost the same. But if on the floor a curved corner can be covered with something, then on the ceiling this is already a problem, so we will pay more attention to how to cut ceiling skirting boards.
Method number 1. Classic miter box
The classic miter box is a U-shaped bed with slots in the opposite sides. A part of a suitable size is inserted into this bed and sawn off with a hacksaw through the slots in the sides. The idea is not new, the tool is already several hundred years old, but, despite the simplicity, not everyone knows how to properly cut the corner of the ceiling plinth using such a miter box.
Not everyone knows how to cut a ceiling plinth in a corner using a classic miter box.
Tip: when trimming, ceiling plinths are applied to the side of the miter box that is closer to you, and floor plinths on the contrary, you need to apply to the side of the instrument farthest from you. This is not a dogma, but it is much easier to work this way.
It is easier to work with floor plinths, since the miter box lies on a horizontal plane, it is easier for you to navigate in the position of the plinth. People most often make mistakes when trimming a ceiling fillet; they are simply incorrectly put into the tool. There is a simple but important rule here.
Important: the edge of the ceiling fillet, which touches the wall, should be directed to the upper edge of the side of the miter box, and that part of the plinth that borders the ceiling is placed on the bottom of the miter box.
The corner, as you know, has 2 sides, so, in order to be less mistaken, accustom yourself to putting the bar that will be mounted on the right side of the corner into the miter box on the right, and put the bar that is attached to the left into the miter box on the left. Details about the intricacies of using a classic miter box are described in the video in this article.
In addition to the classic U-shaped miter box, there are two more types of similar structures - this is a professional and rotary tool. As for the professional version, only masters use it. The device is quite bulky, but it rotates at any angle and has a hacksaw that can be fixed in the desired position.
Professional miter box with the ability to fix a hacksaw and parts.
The swivel device can be safely called a "pocket" miter box. Of the advantages here, only the possibility of a clear fixation of the angle of rotation of the bar. On the one hand, it’s easy for them to work - I set the corner, attached it to the plinth and cut it off. But on the other hand, you need to get used to such a tool, if you do not have experience with a hacksaw, then you should not take a rotary miter box.
Tip: when choosing a classic U-shaped miter box, first of all, do not take Chinese products. And secondly, try to buy models with the ability to rigidly fix the part inside, one of these models is shown in the photo below.
A miter box with the ability to fix the part inside is much more convenient to work with.
Method number 2. Trimming according to the template
Most often, both ceiling and floor skirting boards need to be cut at 45º. If there is no specialized tool nearby, then an impromptu miter box can be drawn on a notebook sheet. From the school geometry course, we know that the diagonal of any square with respect to the base has an angle of inclination of 45º.
Next, you need to draw a square and draw 2 diagonals in it - these will be the desired 45º. You just have to correctly attach the plinth to the leaf and mark. True, in order to cut the plinth evenly without guides, you need a good eye and a faithful hand.
Method number 3. Applied universal
A 45º cut is a common option, but what if you need a different angle and only have a hacksaw and a pencil? It turns out that there is a very simple way out of this situation. Plus, this method is universal, it is suitable for both external and internal corners.
Moreover, I can assure you that those angles that visually appear to be straight, in fact, have deviations of a couple of degrees. As a result, you buy good tool, cut off clearly 45º, and when docking, the gap between the baseboards “crawls out”. Here this problem disappears. And then, using an example, we will consider how to cut the ceiling plinth in the inner corner.
| Illustrations | Recommendations |
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Stage 1.
Take a fillet, apply it on one side of the corner and use it to draw 2 lines, along the wall and along the ceiling.
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Stage 2. Do the same on the adjacent side of the corner. |
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Stage 3. If you draw a diagonal from the intersection of lines on the ceiling, to inner corner, then you will get the desired cutting line. |
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Stage 4. Then take the tool and cut according to the finished markup. If you normally own a hacksaw, then the skirting boards should converge perfectly. |
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. As I already mentioned, exactly the same technology can be used to trim the outer corner. |
Important nuances
If you tried as best you could, but a small gap at the junction nevertheless “crawled out”, do not be discouraged. In wooden fillets, such a gap is easily smeared furniture wax. To cover the gap on the baseboards made of polyurethane, foam, plastic or gypsum, putty is perfect. Naturally, the color of the composition must match the color of the baseboard.
All cracks in the area of \u200b\u200bceiling fillets are sealed with putty.
Wide ceiling fillets are certainly beautiful, but they can only be mounted on ideal smooth walls. If the plane of the wall in relation to the ceiling is a wave, then it is better to buy narrow polyurethane fillets, they are elastic and will smooth out this drawback.
Most of the questions arise about how to cut the wallpaper under the ceiling plinth. There is nothing complicated here: the wallpaper is glued with a slight overlap on the plinth, and when the wall is completely glued, take a large spatula, put it in a corner and cut off the excess with a knife.
But keep in mind - neither a knife nor a spatula can be torn off the wall until you have passed the entire plane. That is, they put a spatula from the corner, cut off the wallpaper along the length of the blade, and then without lifting the blade from the wall, move and cut until you reach the next corner.
Conclusion
All three methods I have described work, the choice depends on what tool you have available and what your professional skills are. If after watching the video you still have questions, welcome to the comments, I will help as much as I can.
If you are not confident in your abilities, then for both floor and ceiling plinths there are docking elements that allow you to do without trimming.
The miter box usually looks like a tray with vertical holes for a hacksaw. It can be made from wood, metal or plastic. This tool represents the oldest and simplest carpenter's cutting tool. wooden parts at an angle of 90° and 45°. There are types of such a device for professional work, with swivel mechanism, in them cutting tool can be rotated and fixed in any position. 
How to cut the ceiling plinth
Ceiling corners are divided into internal and external, the method of docking on them is slightly different.
If necessary, you can make a miter box with your own hands. To do this, you need three trimmings from plywood or boards of the same size. First, they are applied in the form of an inverted letter “P” and the corners are marked. Then, according to the marking, cut out slots for a hacksaw almost to the very bottom, and the boards are twisted.
Inner corner
- We take correct measurements.
- We install the plinth bar into the miter box so that this position exactly coincides with the placement on the ceiling.
- The plinth should be firmly pressed against the opposite wall of the miter box. Hold and press with your free hand.
- We put a hacksaw at an angle of 45 ° in a special hole and cut off the part.
- The adjacent part must be cut in the same way, only in mirror reflection as shown in the photo.
- Measure the length of the plinth from the nearest wall to the outer corner, leave a line on the wrong side with a pencil, indicating the desired length. It should be noted that the edge (its top part) should protrude slightly.
- The plinth is moved to the miter box and cut off.
- The adjacent bar also needs to be measured with a margin and cut off in a mirror image to the first part.
When cutting soft materials (PVC, polystyrene foam), use a hacksaw for metal or a regular construction knife. Then the work will be neat and with smooth edges.
outside corner
We try on the ceiling plinth: the joining of the parts must be perfectly even. If the result is not achieved and there are irregularities at the joints, you can trim the edges with an ordinary knife to a perfect fit. 
Checking for an even fit
The video describes all the nuances well:
Method two - without additional tools
For the inner corner, you can use the easiest way to perfectly join - by marking on the ceiling. Another example of how to cut a corner nice and even.
As a result, you will get an even angle of 45 ° if you draw a line from the intersection point to the edge of the part. Note that the above marking method only works for perfectly even corners.
other methods
With a good eye and the accuracy of the action of the hands, you can use a home-made template that resembles an imitation of a miter box. To do this, take a thin board or thick plywood and draw a layout in the form of a horizontal rectangle. Use a protractor to mark 45° on the right and left sides of the rectangle. Draw lines connecting opposite edges. 
You can now cut the ceiling plinth using this layout. The actions are simple and similar to the description above in the first option. Only the ceiling parts should not be inserted, but superimposed on the drawing and combine the hacksaw with the layout layout.
Special accessories for docking
By installing ceiling plinths, you can get around the question of how to cut a corner with a side. In a situation where you don’t want to cut anything, if you are a woman and love beauty, and not carpentry, you can go the other way. We advise you to choose a plinth for your finish, to which in the store you will find a part that matches the drawing, covering the junction. This way will save time and effort.
