Shelter of ornamental shrubs and vines for the winter. Vertical gardening

fallen leaves

Mulching with leaves is very simple and fast way protect fragile shrubs and perennials that do not require winter pruning from frost.

To do this, take the twine, tie the top of the plant in such a way as not to break the branches. Cover the root zone with dry healthy foliage to a height of 20 centimeters. You can also use fern leaves.

Having built such a structure, you will protect the root system of plants from freezing even in the most severe frosts (-30C).

Uses for fallen leaves

Lapnik

A spruce branch made of pine branches will become a reliable frost protection for hydrangeas, roses and other shrubs that can hardly endure severe winter cold. To build a good protection, you must first mulch the root area of ​​the plant, and cover the upper part with pine or spruce spruce branches. Even with severe frosts and snowless winters, spruce branches form a kind of greenhouse for the plant. By the way, in this way you can also protect your roses or other shrubs from rodents that are afraid of prickly needles.

If it is not possible to get spruce or pine branches, then normal fit brushwood. This covering material perfectly holds snow, it does not rot, it allows the plant to "breathe". But in snowless winters it is necessary additional insulation, since the brushwood itself will not protect the plant from frost.

Shelter options with spruce branches

Sackcloth

If in the fall you planted seedlings on the site fruit trees then be sure to cover them with burlap. small coniferous trees and shrubs can also be covered with this material.

The main advantage of burlap is that it allows air to pass through. On sunny winter days, the greenhouse effect is not formed. When covering with burlap, leave a small gap at the bottom. When the snow falls, you can sprinkle the roots on them.

Here's how to cover with burlap

Wicker materials

If you need to cover small shrubs, unnecessary wicker products, such as old basket, bread box, old lampshade, deep wicker bowl. Never throw away rattan or willow items that are out of use. Under such products, your heat-loving plants will feel very good in winter!

Here's what the hideouts look like...

Spunbond

Spunbond is a popular modern covering material. The canvas will protect the shrubs from frost in winters with little snow. Grapes, roses, rhododendrons and other heat-loving crops feel very good under such shelter. Agrofibre allows air and moisture to pass through, but at the same time protects from winds and light frosts. There are several ways to hide. You can just wrap the crop if it's a small shrub. But for tall plants with spreading branches, it is necessary to build a frame from branches, and lay a spunbond on top of the frame.

Important! To protect against severe frosts, it is necessary to use several layers of agrofibre, or think about additional insulation.

Today you can buy very nice covering caps for plants made from spunbond.

Spunbond shelters

Construction Materials

For winter shelter of plants, you can use some building materials: pipe trimmings, wooden planks, boxes, roofing material.

Use advantage similar materials in that they exclude direct contact of the plant with the insulation. From pipes, slate, or from boards, you can build a kind of tent and lay agrofibre, burlap or spruce branches on top of it.

Important! Do not use for warming plants materials, which include chemical compounds and resin. Such building materials include drywall, fiberboard, cement-fiber boards. And for shelter fruit and berry trees it is undesirable to use slate, although it is quite suitable for ornamental shrubs.

Another interesting option for warming flower pots

And don't overdo it with insulation. Do not cover plants until frost. Only when a frozen crust up to 3 centimeters thick forms on the ground can shelters be built.

If you hurry, the plant will dry out and, with a probability of 80%, even die!

I described the materials that gardeners and gardeners mainly use to shelter heat-loving crops for the winter. How do you protect your plants from frost?

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Under a layer of leaves that become wet and heavy in winter, the lawn can literally suffocate. It is better to rake the foliage under the trees and shrubs. Autumn foliage protects the soil and roots from freezing decorative perennials, as well as reliably protect young plantings of edelweiss.

Majority ornamental trees and shrubs normally tolerates the cold season. But evergreen deciduous, such as rhododendron, mahonia, as well as roses, hydrangeas, especially if they are planted in a hedge, protection is simply necessary.

Certainly, best defense plants in winter - a thick layer of snow. Camellia can be insulated by wearing a "coat" of burlap or agrospan, and cold-sensitive ornamental shrubs will successfully overwinter if wrapped in agrospan. Several pegs from the inside will support the structure so that it does not fall.

Negative temperatures are not the only source of danger for plants in winter. On clear frosty days, leaves and branches evaporate a lot of moisture. Icy northern and eastern winds dry up the soil, especially in the absence of snow cover. Frozen ground cannot give water to plants, and they dry up. Therefore, the roots need to be covered so that they are warm, and the branches should be protected from the sun.

Some of the ornamental grasses can tolerate cold and dryness, but in wet weather their roots rot. It is best to tie such plants in bunches so that rain or melt water can drain freely from them.

Lamascus grass, tied into bunches to protect the roots from dampness, resembles some mysterious creatures from a fairy tale.

Cold resistant woody plants in pots and tubs can spend on the balcony or terrace all winter. Boxwood, yew, cherry laurel, euonymus (in warm regions), dwarf pine or spruce, juniper, cotoneaster (in more severe ones) will bloom with bright greens in this season that is poor in colors. Those plants that do not withstand the cold can be beautifully draped with reeds, spruce branches, hay or straw and additionally decorated with ribbons.

Remember that the containers in which the plants are located must be frost-resistant. And make sure that the earthy clod of the evergreens never dried up.

The reason for the death of conifers, including juniper, spruce, arborvitae, cypress, hemlock, and evergreen deciduous plants in winter, is most often not frost, as many people think, but drought. All plants evaporate moisture through their leaves, and evergreens evaporate it in winter, especially on sunny days. If the moisture reserves from the soil are not replenished, the plant gradually dries out. Therefore, in autumn, especially dry, it is very important to water evergreen trees and shrubs more often not too much cold water. At the same time, water should seep into the ground gradually so that the plant does not drag into the soil.

The larger the autumn water reserves, the longer conifers and deciduous plants that do not drop foliage for the winter. Watering should be continued and winter period, if the ground is not covered with snow and is very dry, but only at positive air temperature. In open areas, plants must be protected from the wind.

Among the large ornamental perennials that need protection in winter is gunnera dyer. The imposing gunnera dye grows on moist soils in shade or partial shade. In autumn, cut off the leaves and flower stalks, cover the plant with a thick layer of foliage and brushwood. It is also recommended to make a hut from slats or poles.

But Coulter's omnea, or California tree poppy, prefers dry and moisture-permeable soil, warmth and sun, therefore, in conditions cold winter the plant is dug up in autumn and transferred to a bright, dry and cool place where the temperature does not fall below 0 0 C.

The giant fennel, which grows up to three meters in height, also likes a warm and sunny place, so in winter it should also be covered with a thick layer of leaves.

In November, the most favorable times come to finally cover non-frost-resistant plants for the winter. ornamental plants in the garden. You can't let everything go by itself, because last years Our winters bring surprise after surprise. Then the frosts will strike worse than the Siberian ones. That New Year we meet with blooming daisies in the flower beds, as in the past season. Therefore, it is better not to take risks and work a little for the benefit of your garden pets.

Be sure to cover clematis that bloom on last year's shoots. To do this, they are removed from the supports, folded into a ring and laid on the ground, after laying spruce branches or other material. The root zone is spudded to a height of 20 cm with dry peat, humus or soil. From above, the shoots are covered with the same spruce branches, lutrasil, roofing material. In the same way, you need to do with young girlish grapes, until they have grown and grown stronger.

All roses except park roses also need shelter. Most often, roses die not from freezing, but from dampness, which occurs due to too early shelter in the fall, lack of ventilation and late opening in the spring. The first autumn frosts do not harm roses, they even help the transition of plants to the winter cycle, helping to stop growth and accumulate nutrients on the run.

Small roses can simply be pulled together with twine, tied with spruce branches and built a shelter over them. Climbing roses are covered, like clematis: they are removed, laid on the ground and covered, after removing the remnants of the leaves. Miniature roses are cut short, leaving stumps no more than 5-7 cm high, covered with dry peat and covered with spruce or small pots with a hole at the top.

Before the shelter hybrid tea roses cut to a height of about 30 cm, lubricate the cuts with brilliant green or garden pitch and carefully remove the remains of foliage from them. The construction of a shelter above them is started with the establishment of stable low temperatures (from 0 to -5 degrees). The bush is spudded with dry soil, peat or foliage to a height of about 20 cm and well covered with spruce branches. He is the most best material for sheltering plants, because thanks to the thorns it repels rodents, retains snow well and retains heat, while at the same time not hindering ventilation. Then something like a roof is built on top to prevent excess moisture from entering. Can be used wooden shields, boxes, plywood - it all depends on the available facilities and the size of the plants.

Chrysanthemums also need the same shelter that prevents moisture from entering and maintains good ventilation. They are cut off almost at the level of the soil, covered with mulch, you can take peat with sawdust and pour this mixture on a bush 10 cm high, pour leaves on top of the mixture. If you do not build a roof over them, then there is a high probability of them getting wet.

For the purpose of warming mulch peonies, garden daisies, phloxes, pour soil or humus to primroses, lilies, astilbes and other perennials. Cover heat-loving ornamental shrubs (weigel, forsythia, rhododendrons other). The shoots are slightly bent to the ground and covered; later, during the winter, snow is constantly poured onto them. In the absence of mulch, spruce branches will successfully replace it.

Coniferous crops, especially young ones, need to be wrapped in thick paper, wrapped in burlap or lutrasil and tied with twine. They are not afraid of frost, but the scorching rays of the sun at the end of winter and early spring leave red burn spots on the needles. It is enough to bend low creeping conifers to the ground, you can cover it with material a little, the rest will be done by snow.

In shelter, they will winter better and that's it new young plantations. It is necessary to mulch their root zone with peat and, if these are standard plants, wrap the trunks with lutrasil to protect them from damage during temperature changes at the end of winter.

Probably the easiest to hide plants on alpine slide . It is enough just to throw a double layer of covering material on top, pressing stones along the edges. Thanks to this shelter in the spring, you do not have to additionally clean the slide from debris and foliage. And the soil will be much less compacted and remain loose.

And special shelter houses and huts made of nonwovens for various plants. If possible, you can take advantage of this innovation.

Shelter for the winter bulbous plants

Most of the small-bulbs, blooming in spring- muscari, blueberries, hazel grouses (chess and white-flowered), snowdrops, pushkinias, crocuses and other winter-hardy bulbs do not need to be covered. Planted before September 20 at the required depth, the bulbs of these plants have time to take root well and do not freeze out in winter. However, later plantings of bulbs need to be mulched on top.

Winter-hardy Dutch bulbs planted in autumn (lilies, tulips, daffodils, etc.) should be covered with spruce branches. It is also an effective protection against mice, which are very fond of eating lily and tulip bulbs. And from above, close the spruce branches with a film and cut shoots of perennials, i.e. make a dry cover. In no case do not cover the bulb plantings with straw - otherwise you will create excellent conditions for the reproduction of mice.

An indispensable condition for the successful wintering of all bulbous plants is the unflooding of the landing site by spring waters.

You can mulch the rhizomes of perennial plants with a loose mixture (for example, a mixture of garden soil, peat, compost and humus in any combination) or just garden soil.

Young herbaceous peonies at proper fit may not be hidden. But on old bushes, in which the buds have grown up, you should annually fall asleep in the fall with a hill of earth with humus. And in early spring, you need to unwind the covered peonies very carefully so as not to damage the growth buds. It is in order not to damage the buds that I unravel the peonies when the leaves begin to grow.

Primroses in the garden in autumn should be covered with spruce branches on top to protect them from mice, which love to gnaw out the delicious juicy “heart” of the plant rosette. To the base of the bush, pre-pour fresh earth.

Daylilies overwinter without shelter.
But if you have planted some particularly decorative valuable variety (for example, Close in Glory, Cherry Valentine, Storm of the Center, etc.), then preventive shelter for the winter will not be superfluous. Indeed, among imported daylilies, less frost-resistant semi-evergreen or evergreen varieties can be found. Since their winter hardiness in our region has not been precisely determined, make a dry shelter for imported daylilies for a safety net.

unpretentious Siberian irises winter shelter is not required, these are quite frost-resistant plants. But varietal bearded irises dry shelter must be provided.

The moment for the winter shelter of heat-loving perennials should be judged by the weather in your area.

This should not be done early, because in October, after the first strong cold snaps, very warm weather can set in. Then prematurely sheltered perennials can kick out.

Sprinkle perennials with mulch and garden soil while it is still loose (it's a good idea to prepare mulch and covering soil in advance and keep in a dry place).
And with burlap, film and cut shoots of plants, you will cover your wintering heat-loving perennials after the onset of stable frosts.

Shelter is carried out when the air temperature drops below -5 C. This usually happens in mid-November. You should not do this earlier, because the plants need to get a little hardened, get used to low temperatures. Night frosts are not terrible for them, and small frosts (-5 C) are not dangerous either. The main covering material is spruce (or pine) spruce branches, until nothing better has been invented. It helps to accumulate snow, which protects the plant from severe frost.

In the Botanical Garden of Moscow State University named after M.V. Lomonosov, an experiment was carried out: the air temperature was measured under the shelter and outside it. Under shelter, the temperature did not fall below -5 C, even if it was -30 degrees below zero. Under such a shelter, plants do not overheat when thaws occur, and in the middle of winter there are positive temperatures. When it was -5 C outside, -3 C under the shelter, if the air temperature dropped to -32 C, it was not lower than -5 C under the shelter. However, if there is no snow, the temperature under the shelter is almost the same as the temperature outside it.

Shelter should not in any way damage and break the branches of plants. Therefore, sprawling bushes are first recommended to be carefully tied with twine, then wrapped with burlap and only then covered with spruce branches

Branches and buds are adapted to withstand severe frosts, which cannot be said about the roots. They suffer a lot during snowless winters, so you should try to accumulate snow on the tree trunks. The same spruce spruce branches can help a lot with this.

Speaking of conical and pyramidal forms of junipers and columnar thujas. In winter, from adhering snow, they often lose their shape, fall apart, bend, or even break off branches.
Starting from the bottom, not very tight, pull off the crown with any rope. If the tree is larger than 1.5-2.0m, it is advisable to tie them to supports - pegs, deciduous trees, etc., that is, fix them so that they do not bend under the weight of snow. In general, the snow from the crowns needs to be shaken off.

Before, everything was clear: after a warm summer, a rainy autumn came, and after an autumn, a frosty winter. It was clear that heat-loving plants needed to be protected from freezing, and subtropical plants from getting wet.

Now the weather is "smeared" by the seasons. Autumn now encroaches not only on summer time, but also for part of the winter, and winter - December, part of January or even all of January - often cries with autumn tears. Since no one has canceled the winter, just at this time such a frost can hit that it will not seem enough. And our garden pets will remain defenseless against the winter cold, because there is no snow - their protector - on the ground, and all the soil is covered with a crust of ice. And the roots have nothing to breathe under the ice. Therefore, our main task now is to help plants meet the winter "with a fur coat and felt boots."

Most perennial flowers and shrubs are well tolerated by all the features of the autumn-winter period, including sudden changes in temperature. However, some breathtakingly beautiful curiosities cannot exist in our climate without the help of gardeners. Such plants have to be carefully covered in case of a little snowy winter. First of all, these are flowers that we do not dig up for the winter, and ornamental shrubs.

Flowers

Be sure to cover - preferably spruce branches - planting incarvillea, Japanese bearded irises and orchid primroses. At least a few branches of spruce branches should be thrown at the plantings of terry marigold, Japanese anemone and Korean chrysanthemum winter-hardy varieties. All stems are pre-cut to 10-12 cm, and chrysanthemums are also spud to a height of 15-20 cm. The leaves of the Japanese anemone are not cut, but the spruce branches are laid directly on them, since they themselves serve as additional thermal protection for the roots.

It would seem that such a flower, which has taken root well with us, like a tulip, should not freeze out in winter. Tulip bulbs can withstand temperatures up to? 11 degrees. However, the newest varieties of lily-colored, fringed, and especially parrot tulips can be seriously affected if there is not enough snow or sudden severe frosts. Therefore, it is better to cover the plantings with spruce branches and mulch with compost or peat (a layer of 5-10 cm). The same applies to both new and well-known beautiful varieties daffodils. As a rule, the more intricate the variety, the less winter-hardy it is.

Let's not risk the life of hyacinths either. They are mulched in the same way as tulips and daffodils, with a layer of peat or compost. You can also cover plantings with fallen leaves.

Many flower growers decorate their gardens with lilies. If these are Asian hybrids, then there will be no problems with wintering. A normal winter is also well tolerated by tubular lilies and oriental hybrids. early varieties(for example, Casablanca and Marco Polo), but if severe frosts are expected, then it is better to cover the plants with a thick layer - 20 cm - of mulch or spruce branches.

Late varieties of oriental lily hybrids require warming in any case, since after flowering they do not have time to restore strength before the start of winter. It is especially dangerous to leave them uncovered this year, as they bloom later than usual due to the cold summer.

Be sure to cover the Candida lily - after all, its bulb hibernates at the very surface of the earth. A couple of spruce branches and fallen leaves - 20 centimeters in total - will be just right.

Many flower growers shelter peonies for the winter. I don't usually do this because the place is dry. However, after the autumn pruning of the stems, I always sprinkle the formed stumps and the soil around them with lime.

Buddley

Some restless flower growers who do not live in peace have decorated their gardens with this luxurious shrub. Gardeners from the Kaluga, Volgograd and other regions of Russia share their experience in magazine articles: if the buddleia branches are bent to the ground for the winter, then this plant will be able to winter under the snow without shelter. But we have snow, if it falls, then at Christmas it almost always melts. As a result, the branches of the buddley are exposed, and the bush dies - it freezes or rots. Therefore, you must either cover the plant completely, as is done with roses, or cut off all the branches, leaving stumps with one or two pairs of buds. It is easier to cover a chopped bush (it is better with spruce branches, and not with leaves, so as not to snot). In the spring, it will give new shoots from dormant buds, and by autumn it will bloom - if, of course, it overwinter. The chances of such a feat in buddley in Leningrad region small. Usually this plant spends so much energy on wintering in our area that it does not survive more than one (maximum two) winters.

Mahonia holly

Now this evergreen shrub grows in many gardens. Some gardeners consider it to be low-hardy, because it often dies in the spring, but the cause of death of this plant is not winter frosts and the spring sun. In early spring, when root system mahonia does not work yet, the leaves and buds that have appeared from under the snow are burned sunlight. To protect the plant, in the fall it is necessary to cover it from the spring radiation. You can, of course, do this at the end of winter, but it is better to take all necessary measures in advance.

I usually stick fir paws around the bush (on the south side) so that the shade protects the bush from them. You can also make a "wigwam" out of stakes and old sheets. If any branch crawls out from under this shelter, then in the spring it will certainly turn red and dry. However, those shoots that remain in the shade will survive and become a worthy decoration of the garden.

young shrubs

Coniferous plants also need to be protected from the spring sun. In general, all shrubs that start growing in spring should be covered with a cloth for the winter. Such plants include, for example, forsythia ovoid.

You also need to cover young ornamental shrubs - panicled hydrangea, action, vegella, tamarix, etc. In adulthood, they will learn to hibernate themselves, but at first they require protection.

For insulation, I have recently been using lutrasil. I build a “wigwam” above the bush from rods stuck into the ground, which I wrap with several layers of this material. All wintering under such shelter ends safely for the plants. I also use a synthetic winterizer that is waterproof and well-kept warm (for “dry” shelter of roses and clematis). This is a good replacement for spruce branches - after all, spruce and pine trees must be protected!

tree peonies

Gardeners are just beginning to develop this plant. Often, young shoots do not have time to become woody and freeze slightly in winter. There are several ways to speed up their maturation. For example, do not water the plants in August. Another way was suggested by our botanist Andrey Knyazev: in October, you need to shorten the leaf blades by 2/3 in order to speed up the ripening of the shoots of the current year, thereby increasing their frost resistance. In early October, you need to mulch the trunk circle with peat or a mixture of peat with humus. And to prevent freezing of the apical buds, the plants are covered with spruce branches or several layers of synthetic material.

Bela Senich

Many fans often have questions about whether certain plants need to be covered for the winter? In this article we will briefly talk about which plants and how to cover for the winter. The information below is based on years of data. Recently, due to the general warming of the climate, winters have become warmer, but also more insidious. So, due to the warm weather in the winter months, the snow cover may come off, and the plants lose their winter hardening, the buds begin to swell and the bulbs begin to grow. Then suddenly a sharp cold snap sets in, and frosts in this case are especially dangerous for plants. In such cases, winter shelter helps a lot.

In severe winters, annual shoots of the weigela red Bristal Ruby freeze, in white-flowered forms, and less often in flowering weigela. You can reduce the freezing of shoots by pinching the ends of growing branches in late August - early September, which contributes to better maturation of their wood.

Hibiscus Syrian

This shrub needs winter shelter. Young bushes bend down to the ground (as climbing roses) and cover with a non-woven fabric such as lutrasil, and on top plastic wrap. If there is spruce branches, then you can cover them. It should be noted the low winter hardiness of the hibiscus root system. In snowless winters, the roots can freeze. Therefore, the ground around the root collar is covered with dry leaves or mulched. There are forms of hibiscus in which the aerial part is resistant to frost, but their roots also need to be insulated.

Shelter of garden hydrangea, or large-leaved

This hydrangea is not winter-hardy in these climatic conditions. For the winter, young bushes are bent to the ground and well covered with spruce branches or some other insulating material, and on top of this with plastic wrap. The most sensitive to low temperatures are flower buds located at the ends of the shoots. If they are not protected from frost, then the hydrangea will practically not bloom. Small-flowered forms of hydrangea are more resistant to frost than large-flowered ones.

Daphne vulgaris, wolf, wolf's bast.

Daphne's roots can freeze in snowless winters. In nature, it grows in deciduous forests, where its roots are covered by fallen leaves of trees. Under culture conditions, if the roots are not insulated with dry leaves, spruce branches or mulch, Daphne plants can freeze.

Palm-shaped maple, or fan-shaped.

This kind of maple, and especially its garden molds in severe winters, they can freeze slightly. It must be planted in places protected from the north and northeast winds. Maple grows better not in direct sun, but in partial shade. Trunk circles are desirable to mulch or cover with dry leaves.

Cotoneaster horizontal.

In the cotoneaster horizontal, in harsh and snowless winters, annual branches freeze slightly, as a result of which the decorative effect of the shrub is lost. The best winter shelter for him is coniferous spruce branches, but other warming materials can be used.

Cotoneaster small-leaved.

Small-leaved cotoneaster is even more sensitive to frost than horizontal cotoneaster. It also needs to be covered with spruce branches, dry leaves or cut stems of perennials. If the bush is not covered, then the branches located above the snow level, as a rule, freeze.

magnolias.

Almost all deciduous magnolias in the north-east of Ukraine winter without shelter. But there is an exception. So, Siebold's magnolia freezes heavily even in normal winters. In the summer months, it develops poorly. The leaves burn in the sun, and after a few years the bush dies. Magnolia Sulange is quite winter-hardy, but requires a place protected from the north and northeast winds. In severe winters, her flower buds sometimes freeze slightly. There is a form in which annual shoots freeze annually. It differs from other forms in less leathery leaves. One-two-year-old seedlings of Sulange magnolia should be covered with dry leaves or needles, and the cover layer should be such as to cover the apical buds of the seedlings.

Kerria japonica.

The main species and its terry form are cultivated. Non-terry bushes are more cold-resistant than terry ones. But even in harsh winters they sometimes freeze slightly. Terry kerria needs winter shelter. They proceed as follows: the branches of the bush are tied into a bundle, bent to the ground and fixed with arcs of thick wire. Then cover with plastic wrap and fix it. So that the sun does not heat the air under the film, cut stems are thrown on top of it with flower crops or something else.

tree peony.

Usually in normal winters, tree peonies do not need shelter. Terry forms and varieties are more sensitive to frost. It is advisable to rake snow in winter and cover the bushes with some kind of cloth. Some hybrids top part shoots are not completely frozen. In such hybrid peonies, in spring, new shoots grow from the base of the bush, on which normal flowers even develop. You can cover these peonies with dry leaves, pouring them into a mound on a bush, spruce branches, or wrap them with a dense cloth.

Caryopteris, wing hazel.

This interesting autumn-flowering shrub is not well suited to the harsh climate. Due to late flowering (August-October), annual shoots do not have time to mature. Kariopteris needs good shelter for the winter. Best Option shelters - put a plywood or wooden box with a removable lid on the bush. Pour dry leaves inside the box, and cover it with plastic wrap on top and sides.

Action rough, terry form.

Action rough is less winter-hardy than other types of action. So, in its terry form, partial freezing of annual shoots is often observed. It is recommended to plant this shrub in places protected from cold winds. For better maturation of wood, pinching of apical shoots can be used in August-early September.

Paulownia felt.

Recently, paulownia has been offered in catalogs, but it is of little use. Even in ordinary winters, shoots freeze to the root neck. In the spring, a fast-growing shoot develops from the base of the seedling, which does not ripen until frost and freezes again. Can be grown as a coppice crop. With a strong root system over the summer, a shoot grows over one meter with very large decorative leaves. To do this, you need to cover the root neck with dry leaves, spruce branches or mulch with humus, peat.

Yucca.

In the north-east of Ukraine, you can grow filamentous yucca and gray yucca. Yucca filamentous does not need shelter for the winter, but it is advisable to collect the leaves in a bundle and tie. This contributes to a better preservation of the leaves and the growing point in the center of the leaf rosette. Gray yucca is less winter-hardy and it is recommended, in addition to tying the leaves into a bundle, to insulate the plant with dry leaves or spruce branches.

Broom.

Grow several species and their varieties. Most of these brooms can grow without shelter only in the southern and western regions. For the winter, the branches of the bushes are tied into a bundle, bent to the ground, pressed down with something and covered with plastic wrap, on top of which they scatter any plant remains or dense matter. This is done so that the sun under the film does not create a greenhouse effect.

Rhododendrons shelter for the winter

When preparing rhododendrons for winter, you need to water them very well, and it is advisable to mulch the soil around the bushes with needles or peat. Rhododendrons in winter suffer not so much from frost as from the sun. At this time, the leaves of evergreen rhododendrons, despite the fact that they are folded into a tube, lose a lot of water if they are directly exposed to the sun's rays. Therefore, they are protected not so much from frost, but from sun rays. To do this, it is enough to tie the bushes with some kind of cloth. Deciduous rhododendrons (most species) hibernate without crown shelter.

boxwood.

Two types are cultivated: small-leaved boxwood and evergreen boxwood. Balkarian boxwood is suitable only for the southern regions. Small-leaved boxwood is more winter-hardy than evergreen boxwood. In ordinary winters, boxwood overwinters well, provided that it is protected from the winter sun. In severe and snowless winters, the death of the bark is sometimes observed in large bushes on thick branches and root collars. Such branches in the spring do not give a new growth and dry up. If the lower part of the bush is covered with dry leaves, then this phenomenon can be avoided.

Buddley hideout.

Most often, David's buddley is grown, less often the alternate-leaved buddley. In David's buddley, the aerial part is not at all winter-hardy. In autumn, this buddley is cut off “on a stump”, and the base of the bush is covered with earth, and on top - with dry leaves or spruce branches. The cover must be significant.

Buddleya is a large shrub. When planted in a sunny place, protected from cold winds, it tolerates winters well. In severe winters, one-year-old shoots freeze strongly, but during the summer the bush restores the crown.

Hebe, hebe.

Shrub intended for the southern regions. Some small-leaved species can also grow further north, provided there is good shelter for the winter. Small hebe bushes are covered with some kind of container (box, old buckets, etc.), and then with dry leaves, spruce branches and plastic wrap on top.

Cercis, or Judas Tree.

The most common are two types: Canadian cercis and European cercis. Canadian cercis is quite winter-hardy throughout the territory, and European cercis freezes to the root neck, so its cultivation in this region does not make sense.