How to transplant spathiphyllum into another pot at home. When is the best time to transplant

Among indoor plants spathiphyllums occupy a special place. They are quite unpretentious in care and very spectacular in appearance (especially at the time of flowering). But the owners of such a miracle are often occupied with the question - how is it carried out correct transplant tropical flower, and what is needed for this?

Do I need to transplant spathiphyllum after purchase

Transplanting this plant after purchase - required condition spathiphyllum content. But you should not rush with it: experienced flower growers recommend carrying out this procedure only 2-3 weeks after purchase. That is how much time the flower will need to get used to the new house (and the microclimate in the dwelling) at least a little bit. An earlier move will turn out to be additional stress for him.

Important! Adult plants are cramped in technical pots in which they are sold. A long stay in such a container inhibits the growth of the rhizome, which adversely affects flowering.

The way out is the transshipment method: the plant is transferred to another pot without removing the soil clod from the roots. This method allows you to keep a minimum balance nutrients, so necessary at the time of flowering. But we repeat - such a procedure is carried out only in an emergency. If touched blooming spathiphyllum for no apparent reason, the plant may react with blackening or curling of the leaves. Often the reaction to the movement of a healthy flower is the absence of ovaries.

How often do you need to repot

Usually spathiphyllum is transplanted once a year, in the spring. Another periodicity is also often called - at intervals of 2 or even 3 years. However, for a flower with rapidly growing roots that form a large lump in the ground, this is too long. "Overhaving" it in a cramped pot, the owner thereby reduces the intensity of flowering. It is better to move young specimens once a year, and older ones - every 2 years.

When is the best time to do it

The best time is early spring, before flowering. But there are also options here. For example, if later, when examining the green mass, it turned out that they began to dry out lower leaves, which means that you will have to do a sanitary transplant.

Did you know? In Australia, unique flowers grow - orchids of the risentella line, which bloom ... underground.

A new container for a flower is selected, guided by simple rule, - the pot should be slightly larger than the previous one. The fact is that a developed root system, tightly gripping the soil, actively forms an earthen clod. If, however, the spathiphyllum is transferred to a container that is too voluminous, flowering can be greatly delayed (until the roots are located throughout the volume). With a gradual increase in size, such difficulties do not arise, and the flower develops without any extra effort. To do this, select a container with a diameter of 10-15 cm.
By choosing new pot and making sure that it has a drainage hole, the drainage itself is laid on the bottom. For this, large pebbles, expanded clay or brick chips, laid in a layer of 1.5-2 cm, are suitable. Practice shows that many flower growers, using clay pots, do not use drainage. This is not scary for a strong plant, but in the case of a young and still fragile specimen, it is still better to play it safe.

What kind of soil do you need

Spathiphyllum will need loose and light soil with low acidity. The easiest way is to take a purchased soil mixture for flowering tropical and aroid species, adding some coarse sand there.

Important! When buying a ready-made substrate, pay attention to the acidity - it should be less than 6.5 pH.

Many prepare the soil themselves, and the most popular mixture of the following components:

• peat;
• leaf and sod land;
• sand;
• sphagnum.

The first four components are taken in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5: 0.5, and sphagnum is added very little (about 0.2) - it protects the soil from drying out. You can take another mix that provides better aeration.
It contains:

• 2 parts sod land;
• 1 part of sheet soil, peat and coarse sand;
• charcoal;
• brick chips;
• roughly crushed tree bark;
• superphosphate.

The last four ingredients are additives, the total mass of which in the substrate should not exceed 10%. Another variant of the soil mixture is prepared by mixing purchased soil, pine bark, vermiculite and humus. The final concentration is 5:1:1:0.5. But extreme accuracy is needed here: an oversight with the dosage of humus threatens with increased drying of the roots.

Tools for the job

The tool will need a minimum:

• garden shovel or scoop;
• sharp knife or scissors;
• spray.

Did you know? The first flower clock was planted almost 300 years ago (in 1720). Pioneers in this direction were Swiss gardeners.

You will have to work with gloves (preferably rubber - wearing cotton ones, you can miscalculate with effort and damage the rhizome).

Preparing spathiphyllum for transplantation

The initial stage of transplantation is the preparation of the flower itself. In the case of spathiphyllum, it is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. The soil in the old pot is moistened abundantly, after which it is carefully pry with a garden shovel.
2. The plant is removed along with the lump.
3. Then the rhizome is carefully cleaned of old drainage and soil.
4. Withered or too young leaves are cut off (in one go, do not torment the flower).
5. Take a closer look at the old leaves, and especially at their bases - they are also removed (to prevent rotting). Usually they break off without much effort.
6. It remains to cut too long or rotten roots- and the spathiphyllum is ready to move to a new container.

The transfer of adult specimens is often combined with reproduction. To do this, the cleaned root ball is cut into several fragments, making sure that each division gets a healthy segment of the rhizome.

Important! The cut points are sprinkled with charcoal in the form of a powder - it is a kind of antiseptic.

Keep in mind that if the transplant has not been carried out for 2-3 years, then there will be a lot of such outlets, so if there is no space for new pots, it is better to refuse division.

How to transplant into another pot

Here, too, there are no tricks:

1. A prepared wet substrate is poured over the drainage laid in the container.
2. Make a small indentation in the middle of the pot.
3. A leg with neatly divorced roots is placed in it.
4. The hole is immediately covered with a new portion of soil, not forgetting to crush the soil near the trunk (until its level reaches the leaves).
5. Immediately after transplantation, abundant watering follows. Get ready for the soil to settle slightly, and the substrate will have to be poured. it important point- if you miss it, the plant may stagger in a pot.
6. Finally, be sure to spray the leaves.

For better acceptance in a new place, the plant needs to create special conditions for a short time.

Video: spathiphyllum transplant

Post transplant care

The first week after the transfer, the plant is kept in the shade, after which the pot is placed in its usual location (with a temperature of +16 ... +27 and moderate indirect lighting). All this time, the leaves are sprayed daily, and if there are concerns about their withering, then several times a day.

Did you know? The roots of South African ficuses grow up to 120 m in length.

The soil in the upper layer should be moderately moist - in the warm season, the frequency of watering with warm soft water is 2-3 times (whereas in early spring enough 1-2). Due to its tropical origin, spathiphyllum needs to maintain high (more than 50%) humidity. In rooms with heating turned on, it is not always possible to maintain such parameters. But there is a way out - for the first 1-2 weeks after the transfer, the flower is completely wrapped in transparent polyethylene, monitoring the water balance.
As for dressings, there is a taboo: they are not applied within 1.5 months from the moment of transplantation. After this period, they switch to the standard scheme - fertilizers are applied as usual (1 time per week during the growing season and 1 time per month during the cold season). Liquid top dressings, organics or purchased mineral compositions without the participation of lime. Anyone can cope with the task of transplanting a spathiphyllum - you will need accuracy and careful (albeit simple) care. Let tropical plant pleases the eye and creates comfort in the home for many years!

It is a well-known fact that proper care of indoor prolongs their lifespan. One of the factors proper care is a transplant into a larger pot with fresh soil. The intervals between transplants are different for all plants, but nevertheless, in this article we will try to systematize these data and consider the basic principles and rules for proper transplantation.

Majority perennials needs to be repotted once a year or every two years, some slow-growing plants can be repotted every three years.

There are three main types of transplant, depending on how much land has been replaced:

1. Complete transplant. During such a transplant, the entire earth is replaced, be sure to clean the roots of the plants from the old earth.

2. Partial transplant. For such a transplant, the roots should not be disturbed, it is enough to replace the soil around the rhizome.

3. Replacing the top layer. This type of transplant is suitable for situations where it is enough to “sprinkle” the bare root of the plant or when it is necessary to remove upper layer and fill the vacated place with fresh soil.
The main stages of transplanting houseplants

Step-by-step instruction.

1. We prepare a pot for transplantation.

If you have chosen a clay pot, then in order to get rid of the burnt lime inside, before transplanting, it should be filled with water and allowed to stand for a day. If you decide to use an old pot, then just rinse and dry it.

2. We pour the first layer.

In order for the flower to develop successfully after planting, when transplanting plants, it is recommended to create in a pot drainage system. And this will be right, since drainage will smooth out small misses in watering. For these purposes, suitable: expanded clay, pieces of brick or shards.

3. We take out the plant from the old pot.

To do this, you can water the plant abundantly an hour before transplanting, then the flower outlet will easily come out.

4. We clean the roots.

With your hands, carefully clean the roots of the plant from upper ground being careful not to damage them. If the plant has rotten roots, then it is better to remove them, dry them and sprinkle with charcoal.

5. We plant a plant.

We take a new pot with drainage and lower the plant to a layer of earth so that the root neck is just below the edges of the pot, never deepen the neck of the plant. And we fill the remaining space between the old earthen clod and the walls of the pot with a new moistened substrate.

6. We compact the earth around the plant.

After the compaction procedure, which can be done by hand, fresh earth should be added.

7. Water the plants.

This step does not apply to all plants, for example, flowers accustomed to dry soil do not need to be watered after transplantation, they just need to be planted in a slightly moistened substrate. Never water plants with damaged root systems for 5 to 7 days (let root injuries heal).

What soil should the plants be transplanted into?

Thanks to the huge selection in garden stores, there is no need to prepare the substrate yourself, you can buy everything you need in the garden departments. So that the soil in a pot with a plant does not become compacted, in ready mixes coarse sand, small pebbles, sawdust, charcoal and even foam balls are added.

Your task is to clarify for which plants this or that land is suitable, what fertilizers have already been added to it, you also need to pay attention to its composition, acidity and shelf life. It is better to give preference to trusted manufacturers.

Land from the garden is rarely suitable for transplanting houseplants, moreover, it is often infested with pests or pathogens.

How to choose correct pot for a transplant?

When transplanting a plant, preference should be given to a container larger in diameter by 2-4 centimeters from the previous one. There are three types of containers for planting: pot, planter and container. The pot can be made of clay or plastic, the former has a porous structure, due to which it is the best home for a plant, but a plastic pot is very durable.

There are drainage holes in the pot, but they are not in the planter, so do not confuse them when buying, when correct use the first is inserted into the second.

The container, as a rule, also has a solid bottom. Several pots are placed in it or several plants are planted.

When is the best time to transplant plants?

For each plant, the optimal transplant time is different, for example, the beginning of summer is suitable for conifers, at the same time azaleas and camellias are transplanted. bulbous plants transplanted at the end of the dormant period, for cacti the optimal time is the beginning of winter.

Young plants are transplanted every year, adults - once every few years, if the plant is not transplanted, then it is necessary to replace the top layer of earth 5-6 cm.

The signal for transplantation is the peeking roots from the drainage hole.

The habitual understanding of inexperienced flower growers about high-quality soil in the case of growing zamiokulkas can cause conditions for its death, since this plant, due to the specifics of the soil in vivo, feels good in a not very nutritious air-permeable soil.

Loams enriched with soil humus are reluctant to part with moisture, which can lead to the beginning of the rhizome rotting process.

The most comfortable root system of Zamioculcas in the mixture soddy soil and sand to which a good portion is added expanded clay, small gravel or ordinary medium-sized stones from a dirt road.

Before the soil obtained by self-mixing different soils and mixtures, you need disinfect by pouring boiling water or calcining in the oven.

IMPORTANT! The root system of Zamioculcas reacts negatively to rough mechanical stress, so move the plant into a new flowerpot carefully using the transshipment method. If necessary, due to overflow and the beginning of decay of the roots, the damaged underground parts are separated.

In what land to plant a flower at home?

Three options:

• in the purchased (suitable soil for succulents, cacti);
• universal (subject to mandatory mixing with clean sand and perlite / expanded clay);
• to self-cooked.

Scheme of mixing soils and additives for soil preparation

The composition of the soil for Zamioculcas is represented by a mixture of:

• 1 hour sod land,
• 1 hour leaf,
• 1 hour slightly acidic peat,
• 1 hour sand without clay fractions.

IMPORTANT!
Before filling the soil into the flowerpot, the container is 1/5 filled with a drainage component. This layer will provide additional air access to the rhizome of the plant. Naturally, the presence of drainage holes in the peas is necessary.

Primary soil treatment with chemicals

Chemicals are usually treated not with soil, and the branches of the plant- if it is discovered that it is attacked spider mite, aphids, scale insects.

The first two types of pests are fought with tobacco infusion and soap-tobacco solution mixed with denatured alcohol, respectively.

Against aphids, nicotine sulfate spraying is used. To prepare such a solution, use a gram of the drug per liter of soapy water.

Parts of plants that are especially populated by pests are wiped with a cloth or swab dipped in disinfectant solution. A day after disinfection, the bush is washed under a warm shower or the leaves are wiped several times with a moistened cloth.

Fertilizing the plant can be omitted if a suitable fertilizer is not available - Zamioculcas is sensitive to excess fertilizing and can get sick from an overdose. The optimal amount of watering with the addition of trace elements - no more once a month when the plant is actively developing.

Zamioculcas grows well with flower growers who rarely but abundantly water it, periodically spray it with clean water on especially hot days, and use soils with a high breathability when transplanting.

Useful video

You can visually get an idea about the transplantation of Zamioculcas on the video:

Every housewife dreams of making her home not only cozy, but also beautiful. To do this, sometimes it is enough to put a couple flowering plants. The phalaenopsis orchid looks very interesting indoors. However, not everyone knows how to take care of her. The main mistake in the choice of soil. But it depends on him how the flower will grow. ordinary earth from the garden is not suitable for these plants. So, what should be the soil for the Phalaenopsis orchid?

Conditions created by nature

To understand what soil is needed for phalaenopsis orchids, it is necessary to determine the conditions under which these plants exist. First of all, these flowers are one of the varieties of epiphytes. Orchid roots are commonly referred to as "air roots". Thanks to them, the plant is attached either to rock or to a tree. All necessary components, including the orchid receives from its "donor", as well as from the air. The flower is poured with rain. This is where this species exists.

However, hybrids have long been bred that were created specifically for growing at home. Phalaenopsis are the most unpretentious orchids. However, they also require certain conditions. This is especially true for the soil.

Choosing soil for phalaenopsis orchids

Composition in this case is of particular importance. The soil for this type of plant is called the substrate. Of course, the easiest way is to buy ready-made. If possible, then you should cook it yourself. When choosing a soil, one should take into account climatic features, flowering periods, plant size and volume of dishes.

You can experiment with mixtures. The main thing in this matter is the observance of proportions. If the orchid blooms profusely, then the plant liked the soil.

What should be in it:

1. Leaf land.
2. Pine cones.
3. Perlite rock.
4. Vermiculite is a mineral.
5. Peat moss sphagnum.
6. Polystyrene.
7. Fern roots.
8. High or lowland peat.
9. Coir.
10. Expanded clay.
11. Charcoal.
12. or a deciduous tree.

Features of some components

The soil for phalaenopsis orchids should contain deciduous or pine bark. Finding such components is not difficult. It is worth choosing growing and healthy trees. In this case, the bark should peel off quite easily. If this is not the case, then it is worth finding another tree. When harvesting the bark, do not use force or sharp objects. Everything is done exclusively by hand. Bark can be collected from stumps or fallen trees. It is important that they are without dust. The raw material must be dry. Wet components can introduce pathogens into the soil, the activity of which can adversely affect the plant.

Fern roots and moss can also be found in the forest. You also need to carefully assemble these components. The fern should be dug up. The substrate requires only the roots of this plant without the top. For convenience, the raw material can be divided into small pieces.

As for moss, it is best to use marsh. If there is such an opportunity, then it is better to collect sphagnum in the lowlands.

Deciduous soil can be used for soil. It must be used in small quantities. True, phalaenopsis may not like this component.

Pebbles and rocks

Phalaenopsis orchid soil may contain construction material. There are two types of expanded clay: crushed stone and sand. In this case, the first option is relevant. After all, expanded clay is mainly used as waterproof drainage. Polystyrene can also play the same role.

Vermiculite is a layered, secondary product. It is very beneficial for plants. After all, this component makes the soil for the Phalaenopsis orchid looser, protects the plant from drying out, fungal infections and mold. In addition, vermiculite prevents caking and clumping of the soil. Thanks to this mineral, the plant develops evenly. Vermiculite also protects against changes in day and night temperatures. After all, this substance is able to keep cool even in very hot weather.

What could be the composition

When creating soil for an orchid, it is not necessary to use all of the above components. There are several composition options:

1. One part charcoal and five parts pine bark. This soil can be used not only for pots, but also for a greenhouse. Such a soil has a reduced moisture capacity and excellent air circulation.
2. One part charcoal, two parts crushed moss, and five parts pine wood chips. A similar soil for Phalaenopsis orchids is perfect for those plants that are planted in a basket, pot or in blocks.
3. One part each of pine bark, peat and charcoal, and three parts of hardwood. This soil is perfect for plants that need top dressing.

How to choose soil

In order for the plant to take root in the house, several principles should be observed:

1. The soil for the phalaenopsis orchid should not be compacted and be too dense.
2. The substrate for these plants dries out in just three days. This is considered the ideal soil for this species.
3. The lower the humidity in the room, the more soil is needed, which contains a sufficient amount of moisture-intensive components.

soil preparation

Since fertilizing the soil for the Phalaenopsis orchid can be quite difficult, you should take its preparation seriously. If it contains enough of all the components, then top dressing may not be needed.

So, the moss needs to be soaked in water for a day, rinse the fern roots in the shower, and then pour over boiling water. This will remove all insects. After that, the components should be crushed. Peat should be divided into small pieces, and the bark into chips. All components should be steamed and then dried.

At the bottom of the tank you need to put small gravel, polystyrene foam, broken red brick - drainage. Then a layer of soil is laid out. In the center, be sure to make a drainage layer, and then a substrate layer. That's all. It remains to plant a plant.

Made famous by amazing healing properties, the aloe vera plant adorns the window sills in almost every home. For those who are just about to get this home doctor or propagate an existing individual, you should learn how to transplant aloe correctly.

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Before transplanting this plant, it will be useful to know that the southwest of the Arabian Peninsula is considered its homeland. Despite this, it is widely cultivated throughout the world and has taken root well in North Africa (Morocco, Mauritania, Egypt), as well as in Sudan and neighboring countries, in the Canary Islands, Cape Verde and Madeira. This species was introduced to China and southern Europe in the 17th century. It has spread widely in Australia, South America, Mexico, in the southeastern states of the United States.

With all its unpretentiousness and vitality, this succulent presents its “rider” to live in your house, and the main question in this star list will be: what kind of land is needed for aloe?

This is what Aloe Vera looks like

In what soil does it grow in nature?

The wide geography of the distribution of this xerophyte in the wild is united by the similarity of the conditions in which it grows. What kind of soil is needed for aloe to be transplanted is determined by the characteristics of the soil in the desert tropical areas, where it grows successfully in a warm and dry climate with minimal rainfall. Sandy stony lands prevail there, which cannot be called fertile, where moisture does not linger for a long time. This should be considered when deciding to transplant aloe.

This species is relatively resistant to most insect pests, although mites, meal bugs and some aphids can damage the plant.

What kind of land is needed?

As a migrant from Africa, South America and Madagascar, the plant is adapted to survive in dry climates, so the soil for aloe should not retain much moisture. The most obvious option, especially for beginner flower growers, is to purchase ready-made soil in a specialized store before transplanting. Since the plant belongs to the cactus family, it is worth considering a succulent mix. By the way, some packages with the mixture describe in detail how to plant aloe at home.

More experienced growers, in order to transplant aloe, can prepare soil for aloe on their own, in which he will be comfortable for a long time.

To plant aloe at home, you will need:

• sheet soil - 2 parts;
• sand - 1 part;
• humus - 1 part.

Instead of sand, perlite can be used to transplant aloe. This mineral is lighter and more porous, improves the drainage properties of the substrate. In addition, it has an impressive hygroscopicity, absorbs excess moisture, leaving the ground for aloe breathable.

How to plant aloe vera from a leaf?

There are several options for how to plant aloe at home. This can be done by cuttings, separation of young shoots from a mature mother plant, leaves and even seeds.

Let's make a reservation right away: the probability of a favorable outcome if you decide to transplant aloe in a leaf way is small. It is much easier to plant basal shoots. But the difficult is not the impossible, and if everything works out, another entry will appear in the book of personal achievements! and in cosmetology.

Training

Before planting leaf aloe, pick a good organ from a strong, healthy plant. Its length must be at least 8 cm.

1. Using a sharp, clean knife, cut the leaf at right angles to the stem. Sterility in this process plays a decisive role, since this method of transplantation is quite painful, and a small infection is enough to make the work in vain.
2. Place the sheet in a warm place for several days so that the cut is tightened with a protective film, make sure that it (the cut) does not come into contact with other surfaces. The film will prevent infection after planting aloe in the ground.
3. Choose a suitable pot, always with a drainage hole at the bottom to prevent excess moisture.
4. As described above, prepare the soil before transplanting the aloe. At the bottom of the pot, pour a layer of drainage, then - slightly moistened earth. It should not be too acidic, otherwise, it is worth adding a little slaked lime there.

If it is not possible to find out the PH of the soil using a special device before planting aloe, try diluting some soil in water to make a slurry and add ordinary soda there. If the soil is too acidic, the soda will hiss, if not, you can transplant aloe without fear.

Planting a process

In order for the prepared leaf to take root with a greater degree of probability, before transplanting aloe vera, you can resort to the help of root stimulants. They can be phytohormones (sold in garden stores) or natural improvised means such as flower honey, yeast, and even ground cinnamon: treat aloe with them before planting a shoot.

1. Deepen the sheet into the ground by about 1/3.
2. Place the plant pot in the room with good lighting. The soil during the first month should be moistened.
3. When your leaf takes root well, you can water it as the soil dries.

If the leaf is slightly wilted, this does not mean that it is dying. It's just that all the power goes into the formation of the root system.

How to transplant at home?

The plant will not deliver much trouble with a transplant. Nevertheless, this should be done regularly: the first three years of life - once a year, and in the future - every 2 years, preferably in the spring. There are two ways to transplant aloe to renew the soil and make it comfortable in your home:

• transfer;
• transshipment.

Before transplanting, aloe vera is taken out of the pot and the roots are placed in a basin of water. Hand rub, removing the old soil. After planted in a new prepared land. Watering is not necessary for 3-4 days.

When transshipping, the old earthen clod is not removed, but immediately placed in another pot on a drainage layer and poured new land, slightly tamping. Water generously afterwards.

What is needed for a transplant?

Prepare everything you need. To transplant aloe, you will need:

1. Pot. It is better to take ceramic, because it has a porous structure.
2. Drainage. They can serve as coarse sand, gravel, expanded clay, perlite.
3. Earth. About what kind of soil is needed, described in detail above.

In addition, to transplant aloe, you will be helped by a handy scoop, rubber gloves and oilcloth (cover her work surface)

Instruction step by step

When everything is ready, you can proceed to the main stage. We will tell you how to transplant aloe at home step by step.

1. Before removing the plant from the pot, in order to transplant, it needs to be watered abundantly the day before, this will simplify the task. If you run a knife along the walls of the pot, and then turn it over, you can easily get it along with an earthy clod.
2. Remove excess too long roots, shake off the ground. Don't worry, getting rid of extra roots won't harm your plant.
3. For disinfection, clay pots into which you plan to transplant aloe can be pre-calcined in the oven.
4. Pour a 4-6 cm layer of drainage material on the bottom of the container.
5. Lay an earthen pillow on top, its height will depend on the size of the pot.
6. To transplant, fix the plant in a pot, cover it with earth to the very leaves, so that the plant sits tightly in the ground in the future, tamp. Water generously and put in the shade for about one week.

Leaves after transplanting aloe should not come into contact with the ground, otherwise they will rot.

How to plant at home?

When the roots of the plant become cramped in the pot, lateral shoots begin to form, which can and should be transplanted. Everyone who has experienced this and knows how to plant aloe at home will say that the process does not take much time and will not be difficult.

1. Child shoots (sockets) have their own root system and are easily separated from the mother plant.
2. After separation of the "children" should be transplanted into separate pots, leaving a couple of centimeters between the roots and the walls of the vessel.
3. After planting, aloe can be watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate in order to prevent the resettlement of harmful microflora.
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