INSTRUCTIONS AND PROPHECIES OF THE Blessed MOTHER ALIPIA GOLOSEEVSKY, Kyiv...
Eco-friendly wood boards now in vogue. The growing demand for frame housing construction made it possible to saturate the market with new oriented strand boards (OSB 3) for Russia. For example, now buying OSB 3 panels here, like other “advanced” lumber, is no longer a problem.
And chipboard continues to find its consumer for one simple reason - because of its cheapness. She is quite suitable for utility rooms and making household items. If you buy here chipboard sheet wholesale, you can save a lot of money. What are the tricks of chipboard processing?
The first action to which this material is subjected is sawing.
Since chipboard is a glued chip, there is a problem with breaking this chip when sawing. Therefore, you need to use a saw with as small teeth as possible and a small setting. The saw must be held at a very small angle to the surface, otherwise edge creases are possible, which are not so easy to camouflage. The stroke of the saw should also be small.
Hole in chipboard
You should not put pressure on the saw. Don't rush - be patient. As an additional insurance, you can use a wide adhesive tape, in the middle of which you should cut. This is especially important for coated boards, such as lacquered boards. In this case, it is even better to cut through the coating with a sharp knife. Of course, if you do not care about the quality of the edge, you can saw the chipboard as you like.
Another action is drilling.
The advice is this: first make a hole in the chipboard with a drill with a diameter of three mm less than necessary without special precautions. Then do the same with the desired drill, which will follow the path of the first. Since the material crumbles easily during drilling, it is necessary to strictly monitor right position drill so as not to get a funnel. If a chip is undesirable on either side, then you need to pre-drill one side to a shallow depth, then make a through hole on the other. Another option to avoid chipping is to place another plate under the drilled chipboard. The drill should be with a sharp edge and it is desirable to drill with enough high speed. For through holes, a drill for metal is preferable to wood. You should not press on the drill at the end. There are special confirmation drills for euro screws. They simultaneously form a cone for deepening the screw head. Drilling blind holes requires special skill.
Final touches
Refinement of the edges of chipboard is done using a planer, rasp and file. It is necessary to lead the tool from the outer edge of the plate to the inner one, so as not to add creases. Very small roughness can be modified with sandpaper.
When working with various types wood, you always need to know the detailed variations in its processing. Before you cut a circle in plywood, you need to know all the options, because you often have to adapt to the situation. There are many options for performing such an undertaking, and they differ dramatically.
In order to cut a circle out of plywood, you can use both professional tools and improvised means.
Power tools or hand tools?
Tools and materials:
- drill;
- jigsaw;
- jigsaw manual;
- milling machine;
- nails;
- rope;
- chisel;
- a hammer;
- stationery knife;
- sandpaper;
- compass.
When determining the diameter of the future circle, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the working cutter.
The most popular option among all is the electric jigsaw. This tool allows you to cut not only circles, but also any other geometric figures. Its only disadvantage is the need to form additional grooves at the corners (corners), but this is not noticeable when creating a circle. It is very important to choose the right nail file, because. they are of 3 types: tears on the left, tears on the right, tears on 2 sides. After the canvas is selected, cut out a circle of any size.
Jigsaw ordinary manual.
Before cutting a circle out of plywood using this tool, you need to make sure that the workflow is available. The main difficulty is the limitation (usually up to 30 cm) due to the physical structure, i.e. in deep places will not work. At the beginning of the working activity, not from the edge, but directly from the center, the nail file is refueled at the very last turn.
Milling machine. Very convenient option, but requiring a rigid hitch with the surface, for which a self-tapping screw is screwed into the center of the circle. The circle is made of any diameter, and very quickly. Sometimes there is not enough working handle, which is why you have to make all kinds of impromptu brackets, which can be a channel, a profile, a bar, a board and even a rope, but it is much more convenient on a rigid hitch. This tool makes a fairly wide hole, so before starting work, you need to carefully measure the future design.
It is necessary to choose only sharp nails, and process the edges of the resulting workpiece with coarse sandpaper.
Nails. A very popular way in cases where the work should be done "already yesterday", and the tools will not be soon. It should be noted right away that the work in the end is quite rough, so it is used as a last resort. All you need is a hammer, 2 nails and a rope. One nail is driven in in the center of the hole, and the other is pulled on the rope to the required length (radius), after which a circle is drawn with a firm movement. Such circles with pressure continue until the circle is finally cut. At the very end, the nail is removed from the hole, turned over and carefully upholstered with a hammer to achieve a more accurate seam.
Chisel and stationery knife. Everything is much simpler here, because first you need to draw a circle with a compass (pencil), after which this circle is circled several times with a clerical knife under pressure.
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A feature of the stroke is the movement of not a knife, but a sheet of plywood, so as not to break the metal, and this action is repeated from 2 sides. Then a chisel is applied to the prepared seam and brought to the opposite seam with gentle blows (2-3 blows are usually enough). At the very end, a circle is knocked out with a hammer, as in the variant with nails.
Preparation and completion of work
Before you cut a circle in plywood with your own hands, you need to drill holes for the tool. It is important to choose a drilling site here, because. in one case, the cut circle itself is needed, and in the other, the outer side. A careful hole is made 5-8 mm away from the edge in the part that will go to the scrap, then the tool is fitted, and work can begin. In case of milling machine the hole is made on the path of the tool in a circle, because. it will be difficult to put it out later.
After the cut is ready, you need to process it with coarse sandpaper.
At this stage, the quality of the working tool is checked, because. with good sharpening and successful work there will be no chips.
But do not be upset if they are available, because. everything can be compensated by subsequent finishing.
Hole in chipboard
Hole in chipboard.
When making furniture with your own hands, the operation of drilling holes in parts takes perhaps the next most important place after sawing them. Technologically, drilling holes in chipboard is not much different from drilling other materials used in furniture production, therefore, all the techniques for making holes described in this article are also applicable to fiberboard, wood and other materials. A well-made hole is characterized by three main indicators - the absence of chips at the drill entry into the workpiece, a clean cut inside the hole, and the absence of chips at the drill exit from the workpiece.
The first question that arises when it is necessary to make a hole in the chipboard is with what? and the next question is how? To get the correct answer to these questions, let's divide the holes by diameter into three types, select a tool for each of them and consider the features of their manufacture.
- Small diameter holes from 2 to 12 millimeters are best drilled conventional drills on wood.
- Holes with an average diameter of 10 to 50 millimeters are made with special drills, such as a spade drill or a Forstner drill.
- Holes of large diameter from 40 to 200 millimeters are drilled with special cutters or an adjustable drill (ballerina).
For holes of larger diameter in furniture parts, the term drilling should no longer be used and, accordingly, the tool must be selected like electric jigsaw or manual cutter.
Holes in chipboard of small diameter from 2 to 12 mm.
Special drill bits are available for drilling small diameter holes in chipboard and other wood-containing materials. The peculiarity of these drills designed for drilling wood is the way they are sharpened.
Drilling holes in chipboard
The wood drill has the shape of a trident, where the middle part serves to center the drill, and the side parts cut the material. The photo shows the results of drilling holes on the left with a wood drill and on the right with a conventional drill. 
When drilling through holes, the drill breaks out the outer layer of chipboard, therefore, to prevent chipping, it is necessary to put a piece of unnecessary chipboard on the side of the drill exit from the hole. In the photo on the left, the result of drilling a hole in chipboard without a lining, and on the right with a lining. 
Thus, we found out that for the correct drilling of holes in chipboard, it is necessary to use wood drills and use a lining at the exit of the drill from the workpiece.
Holes in chipboard of medium diameter from 10 to 50 mm.
For drilling through holes in chipboard of medium diameter, as a rule, feather drills are used (in the common people, perk), and in cases where it is necessary to obtain a non-through hole (for example, for installing hinges), a Forstner drill is used. A spatula drill, like a drill for wood, has a sharpening in the form of a trident and therefore the technology for drilling holes in chipboard is similar. Also, do not forget to put a piece of chipboard at the exit of the drill from the hole. 
The Forstner drill, like the previous samples, has a sharpening in the form of a trident, but the cutting parts are not so long, which makes it possible to drill a hole in a chipboard with a relatively flat bottom. 
Holes in chipboard of large diameter from 40 to 250 mm.
For drilling in chipboard holes large diameter, two main tools are offered for sale. The first option is a hole saw, which is also a crown. 
Both tools do an excellent job of making large holes in chipboard, plywood and other materials with ease. Of the minuses of their use, it is worth noting the quality of the holes obtained. The number of chips and the quality of the cut limit their use when working with facades and other furniture parts that will be in plain sight. 
The main fastener in the assembly of furniture is confirmat. It is screwed in with a pre-drilled hole. It is the drilling of assembly holes in chipboard for confirmations that we will consider in this article.
To assemble chipboard parts, we need:
- screwdriver
- Bat for confirmations
- Ruler or tape measure
- Pencil and awl
Hole depth and width
When usually used confirmat size 6.4 * 50. Because the thread diameter is 6.4 mm, and the confirmatory body diameter is 4.4 mm, then for high-quality fastening parts, the diameter of the hole should be in the range of 4.5-5 mm and a depth of at least 50 mm.
If the thickness of the hole is more than the specified one, the confirmation will not hold the parts well, if it is less, it can break the chipboard with its thickness.
For drilling, a confirmation drill with a diameter of 4.5 mm is used, which is equipped with an additional head for drilling an enlarged hole for the neck of the confirmation, which also makes a countersink for its head.
Of course, you can use a conventional drill with a diameter of 5 mm, but for high-quality fastening in the hole, you will additionally need to make room for the neck of the confirmant and his hat.
To perfectly fasten two parts, it is necessary to mark the places of their attachment as accurately as possible.
On the part that will be superimposed on the end (the one on which there will be a through hole), you need to make two measurements - along the length (usually 5-10 cm) and from the edge - exactly 8 mm (this is if the plate thickness is 16 mm).
On the part that lies perpendicularly, we mark the drilling point at the end. Here you need to maintain the same distance in length (5-10 cm from the beginning), and in width - strictly in the center (8 mm from the edge).
Marking should be done as accurately as possible, especially along the length, because. if the layout is incorrect, your parts may have extra gaps or protrusions when docking.
It is better to make a through hole in the first part, attach it to the second one - and immediately mark the place of drilling at the end of the second part with a drill. And then, separately already, calmly drill a hole.
We make a hole at a distance of 8 mm from the edge.
The drill must ALWAYS be held strictly perpendicular to the surface.
Before you make a through hole, place a piece of unnecessary chipboard under the part. This will prevent chipping on the back.
When the through hole is made, to drill holes for the neck and the cap of the confirmation, the part can be drilled on the fly.
The main rule is that when drilling at the end, the drill must be strictly perpendicular to the end of the part. If you don't hold the drill straight, the drill may go sideways and come out, ruining the part.
When drilling, you need to pull out the drill several times so that chips do not clog in the hole.
This option is considered the most accurate and, moreover, the fastest. But in order to make a hole in two parts at the same time, you will need to fix them before drilling. This may require special clamps, clamps and other devices.
Hole drilling accessories
In order not to mark 8 mm from the edge both in the layer and on the end each time, you can use special device Which, by the way, is easy to do yourself.
It is a kind of wooden template with a metal sleeve for the drill inside.
It looks like this, see the photo:
And this is more professional stuff:
Watch a short video on precise drilling of holes in chipboard for confirmations and assembly of furniture parts:
Dowel drilling
The hole for the dowels is made with an 8 mm drill. Also, in order not to drill through the part, it is advisable to equip it with a depth gauge.
At the end, we drill with the same drill to a depth of 20 mm. Do not forget that during any work, the drill must be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the part.
Of course, if you took a drill in your hands for the first time in your life, you will not succeed very well. But this lesson can be learned pretty quickly.
Chips - the main problem Chipboard. Though cut it, even drill. To get neat holes, I used the following tactics:
Unless, of course, you can get the hang of it and drill through the first time, without pressing at all at the very end. But with my chipboard it was not possible to do such a trick - there were still chips.
Example of failed drilling.
Also note that there are confirmed drills. Special drills for confirmation (Euroscrews). In one pass, not only the hole itself is drilled in the chipboard or in the tree, but also a "hole" is framed for the deepening of the Euroscrew. Finally, I happened to meet on sale and buy Archimedes drills. Some skill is required, however, these are nuances.
Alexander , Retrieved: 2015-11-19 20:42:07
The specified Archimedes drills are of low quality - the alignment is disturbed, strong runout, the situation does not save even the replacement with a normal drill-sleeve is also a curve, China is base!
Alexei , Retrieved: 2009-07-01 14:18:46
In order to avoid chips, or to make them less noticeable, in the through holes, use conventional drills for metal, and even better, if possible, regrind the drill for metal at a sharper angle
Alexander , Retrieved: 2009-02-23 14:36:21
I get through holes without chips easier. It is necessary to put another one under the drilled panel chipboard panel. When drilling, press both parts firmly against each other. The drill must go through the top panel completely and partially through the bottom panel. Then the coating simply has nowhere to chip off.
I agree, Alexander! The tactic I cited was used in drilling on the assembled parts "in place", when it did not make sense to disassemble due to the loss of time.
If the holes you made look like bullet holes, like in an action movie, read these tips to avoid disappointment in future work.
1. Choosing the right drill
Conventional twist drills are inexpensive. They are considered universal and are designed for drilling wood, metal and plastic. As a rule, their tips are sharpened at a 118° angle for most applications.
But because of this obtuse angle the drill bit can deviate to the side at the beginning and tear out the fibers of the wood at the exit, so leave such drills for plastic and metal, as well as for holes with a diameter of less than 3 mm in wood (thin drills have these shortcomings less pronounced). For holes with a diameter of 3 to 13 mm, choose center point drills designed specifically for wood. The tip of such a drill does not bark him to go to the side at the beginning of drilling, and the side cutting protrusions (the so-called undercutters) help to reduce chipping.
To make holes with a diameter of more than 13 mm, use Forster drills. Like center point drills, they have a pilot tip in the middle and cut very cleanly. Forster drills with a serrated cutting rim work much more aggressively, but the result of their work is no worse. Using such drills, you should reduce the feed and securely fix the workpiece with clamps.
2. Support the workpiece from the back
Regardless of the type of drill, when the metal passes through the wood, the unsupported wood fibers on the back of the workpiece are torn and chips are formed at the exit. Therefore, do not forget to support the reverse side of the material with trim
boards. The retaining cut supports the fibers at the point of exit of the drill and prevents a sharp increase in feed at the end. Making holes in drilling machine, simply place the cut under the workpiece, and when using an electric drill, fix it with clamps. If at the beginning of drilling the fibers around the hole rise or small chips form, stick masking tape on the surface, and then mark the center and start drilling.
3. Drill from both sides
If the location of the hole makes it difficult to install a retaining trim (for example, when drilling holes for wires in the back of a cabinet), counter-drilling will help when the hole is made with opposite sides so that there are no chips on the edges.
To make neat holes of different diameters, you need all three types of drills - twist, center point and Forstner.
Make a through hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm, which will guide the Forstner drill or a drill with a central point to the middle of the thickness of the part.
Continue drilling from the reverse side by inserting the tip of the drill into the pilot hole again. The two large holes should meet in the middle.
On a note:
We cut without chips
At the exit of the material, the tooth of the saw blade or cutter often forms chips - in wood, plywood or chipboard. The most common way to deal with this phenomenon is to have the cutting tooth come out of the material inside the slot. For example, if you move the workpiece along the rotation of the disk. But it is absolutely impossible to choose grooves to the full depth in this way. The energy of the rotating cutter is enough to snatch the workpiece from the hands. After that, it will fly with great speed in the direction of rotation. The consequences can be the most unpredictable!
Nevertheless, this principle is used in some machines for cutting chipboard. Only in them, the disk, which rotates in the direction of the material feed, makes only a shallow incision. During its formation, the impact of the scoring disc on the part is negligible, so the work is safe. Behind the scoring disc is the main working disc, which rotates, as it should be, towards the feed of the part. The blade cuts the material cleanly, without chips, because the already selected shallow groove is used (the cutting tooth comes out of the material inside the groove). I use this principle in my work. For those who decide to try my method, I want to remind you that a milling machine installed in a table is a tool of increased danger. And when working with it, it is necessary to strictly follow the safety rules - use protective screens and clamps and not allow the recommended feed rate of the workpiece and the speed of the cutter to be exceeded. The table should be free from foreign objects and well lit.
1. If you put groove cutter on the milling cutter and skip the workpiece, there will definitely be chips!
2. Therefore, first I fix the plywood overlay to the guide milling table so that the cutter protrudes only 2 mm beyond the surface of the lining. And I skip parts in the direction of rotation of the cutter. This results in a shallow groove without chips.
3. Then I remove the overlay - now the cutter protrudes to a given depth. And I skip the workpieces, as expected, towards the rotating cutter.
4. There are no chips!
Drilling is one of milestones furniture manufacturing, requiring accuracy and utmost care. In production, to facilitate the marking process, filler machines and special furniture templates (gearboxes) are used. At home, you will have to be content with a tape measure, a square and a marker to indicate the locations of future holes for a certain type of fastener. Each type of fastener requires specific drills for making furniture.. In some cases it is possible to limit minimum set. For example, if your goal is to make a simple do-it-yourself rack-shelf, then you can completely get by with a set of two ordinary drills with a diameter of 5mm and 8mm, which any “home” craftsman will surely have - in combination they completely replace a specific drill for confirmations. But if the goal is to realize more large-scale project you will need other drills for making furniture.
Marking drills for furniture assembly
Usually, a marker and an awl are used to mark the location of the basting hole. And you can use a thin drill with a diameter of 2.3 mm. It will also be needed already in the process of installing accessories on self-tapping screws - for example, guides, hinges, gas lifts, legs, etc. This will allow you to more accurately and accurately perform all operations, which means that problems with adjustment in place due to crookedly screwed fittings can be avoided.
Drills for confirmation (Euroscrew)
The specific shape of the confirmatory drill, with a characteristic expansion from a diameter of 5 mm to a diameter of 8 mm, makes it possible to make two holes at once in one go, for a narrow and wide part of a euro screw with a countersink for a hat. "work" with this type of drills with both frontal and horizontal parts, drilling the end furniture panels and facial details. It is important not to confuse the “face” with the “wrong side” in the process - otherwise it will be difficult to hide untidy chips instead of a neat countersink into which the confiramate hat “drowns”.
Drills for furniture making 5 mm
The most "running" after confirmation. They are used for through and basting drilling when installing handles, shelf supports, eccentric rods with a self-tapping head, dampers and other fittings. Some craftsmen prefer to use a drill with a diameter of 5 mm to drill the ends of the front parts from chipboard for connection with confirmations.
Drills for furniture making 8 mm
They are used for drilling holes for eccentric tie rods, dowels, mortise push-ups (pushers and shock absorbers), glass holders, shoe pins and specific flag awnings. And, as it was written earlier, the combination of 5 mm and 8 mm drills allows you not to use a confirmatory drill in the additive process.
Drills for furniture barrel ties 10 mm
A thick furniture drill with a diameter of 10 mm is rarely used. But you can’t do without it when installing barrel ties, reinforced eccentric bushings, some types of mortise pushers and smooth-running dampers, hidden loops. It is also convenient for them to make holes in the walls of furniture for the output of wires when installing the backlight.
Drills for eccentrics 15 mm and 20 mm
To install the body of the eccentric, you will need a drill with a diameter of 15 mm, if the eccentric is reinforced, then with a diameter of 20 mm. The eccentric drill is also useful for installing some types of shelf supports and locks, some rarely used fittings (read the installation instructions).
Drill for hinges 26 mm and 35 mm
Four-hinged furniture hinges there are two types - with a standard bowl of 35 mm and a reduced one, 26 mm (rarely used, with a shortage of space for installing a conventional canopy). For holes for furniture hinges, the drill diameter of 35 mm will be the most popular. It is also useful when installing countertop screeds, some types of supports.
Drill for plugs of cable channels and lamps 60, 65 and 85 mm
AT office furniture often used special plastic plugs round shape for cable channels, built-in sockets for mounting in kitchen countertops. For this type of hole, you will need a 60 mm plug drill. It is also useful for drilling holes for built-in lights. In the latter case, it is better to clarify the diameter of the selected fixtures - it may well be necessary furniture drill diameter 65 or 85 mm.
