DIY hammock holder drawings. How to make a hammock with your own hands - step by step instructions with photos, videos, drawings and examples of successful homemade products

A hammock is strongly associated with a romantic getaway in unity with nature. As a relaxer after heavy loads of any kind - physical, intellectual, emotional - a hammock is comparable to expensive physiotherapy procedures or potent medicines. But resting in a hammock costs nothing and does not give side effects. Doctors, however, still do not recommend sleeping in a hammock all the time: its beneficial effect manifests itself after fatigue before. AT modern conditions life, it becomes necessary to have your own hammock for trips to the country or nature on weekends or for vacation.

Making a hammock with your own hands means not just achieving 3-4 times savings in money. And not only to get more pleasure, listening to the whisper of leaves in the creation of their own hands. By making a hammock yourself, you can quickly and easily acquire a lot of useful skills that will come in handy in many other cases.

Story

hanging item upholstered furniture for sleep and rest, Europeans first saw the Caribbean Indians; the natives called him hamoc. At that time the islands caribbean were the same green hell as the present Amazonia. The selva is teeming with all sorts of dangerous creatures and it is impossible to sleep on the ground or in a bed: during the night someone will definitely bite, sting or infect. And the livelihood in this seeming luxury comes from hard and dangerous work.

Hammocks caught the eye of members of the first expedition of Columbus. The Spaniards immediately appreciated the merits of hammocks as ship berths. It is impossible for our contemporaries to imagine the conditions under which the great discoveries of the past were made. Imagine a long voyage in rough seas for six months, or even 3 years, on a fragile little boat smaller than a river tram or a small fishing seiner, with a crew of 12-20 people and the same number of passengers on board. Impossible? The Nina, a caravel from Columbus' first flotilla, displaced 50 tons. She crossed the Atlantic twice, back and forth, at its widest point. Withstood a 10-point storm and brought back from Castile, in addition to her crew, the admiral of the ocean-sea with satellites, after the flagship Santa Maria crashed on the reefs. Also, by the way, not a cruise ship- as much as 200 tons. So, from the Spaniards, hammock beds were adopted by sailors of other countries, then by the inhabitants of port cities, and after them all the others.

Varieties and features

Several types of hammocks are known; the main ones are shown in the photo. The discoverers of the New World saw mat hammocks hung on vines. Their modern modifications are known as Mexican hammock, pos. one. It can be both woven and sewn from fabric, but never contains hard, rigid parts, except perhaps for an eye-ring for suspension. Wicker hammocks are generally more complicated and more expensive than sewn hammocks, but more hygienic, because. provide ventilation from all sides.

The main advantage of the Mexican hammock is simplicity. It can only be a piece of fabric + a pair of stretch ropes, see below. Other advantages are more of a native-nomadic plan: it can be carried with you in a shoulder bag or carried on a horse in an alforch bag. Nowadays, an employee of a paid beach can take a few pieces under his arm, quickly spread them and hang them up to newly arrived customers.

However, the Mexican hammock is, generally speaking, not perfect. In order for the person lying in it to turn from side to side, the cloth needs to be about 3 m long, and another 1.5-2 m for each suspension. The fabric consumption is excessive, there is also a lot of space for hanging. A Mexican hammock cannot be a double bed: the cut on the bed will need such a length that the cocoon, already quite tight, will curl up into a stuffy pipe. It is pleasant to relax in a Mexican hammock no more than 1.5-2 hours. Sailors of sailboats and shepherds-gauchos did not care: after a watch or a day's work on horseback from dawn to dusk, they would sleep like the dead and on a mattress of hedgehogs. But a modern city dweller may be interested in a Mexican hammock only for relatively short-term episodic use.

At pos. 2 hammocks… wrong, not Brazilian. Vietnamese, aka Malay. The natives of the extreme southeast of Asia invented the hammock independently of the Indians and for the same reasons, only the Europeans got to them much later. There are a lot of fish in those parts, fishing is developed, so it is quite natural that the original Vietnamese hammock is wicker. Fortunately, the material is always at hand - a variety of vines. The tropics of the Western Hemisphere are not rich in vines suitable for fine weaving.

Hammock from a piece of a dilapidated fishing net or heterogeneous mechanical properties stems required suspension from many branches-slings and load distribution between them. Therefore, the Asians supplemented the cloth with cross-beams. It is more difficult to make and set up a hammock on traverses, but it is much more durable, more convenient than a Mexican one and can be double. In a hammock on traverses, you can bliss day by day with all the cells of your body, without experiencing, unless absolutely necessary, the desire to get up and walk.

Note: home master with a craftswoman, making a Vietnamese hammock in amateur conditions can be easier and cheaper than a Mexican one, if you focus not on repeating machine-factory technologies, but on manual rigging and marine practice. Of these, only the basics are required, and they are not at all as complicated as it is commonly believed, we will master them along the way.

The Brazilian hammock is shown in pos. 3. This is a modification of the Mexican hammock for people who are more civilized, demanding on amenities and technologically equipped. A Brazilian hammock can also be hung in a native way, on ropes, or, if you put a solid cross-beam into the drawstring straps, in full extension in width. For recreation, it is convenient no less than Vietnamese; the width can be up to 2 m. Practically - the entire width of the cut.

The convenience of a Brazilian hammock for all occasions is not given in vain - it is complex and expensive. Concentrated loads from suspension points “disperse” through the fabric more difficult than through the mesh, so they require a lot of suspension branches and drawstrings. And each one needs to be reinforced by putting a piece of braided sling into it, as well as into the edging of the cloth. Without reinforcement along the contour, the edges of the bed will soon sag.

As a result, on the wrong side (bottom side) of the cloth there are many sewing elements. Strength is not strength, but in order to at least hide them, the cloth has to be sewn double: 2 identical cuts are sewn along the short sides, the resulting short wide sleeve is turned inside out and the rest is sewn / stitched inside it, where necessary. According to the second method, more designed for skilled manual work, the long sides are first ground down, and the drawstrings are sewn into the wide armholes formed. Fabric consumption doubles this way and that without any, in general, the need. In general, making a Brazilian hammock at home only makes sense experienced seamstress, which has a machine for a needle of at least No. 100, capable of piercing 3 layers of dense fabric with a sling with a thickness of 1.5 mm between them.

Lie or sit?

A Brazilian hammock of a reduced size and simplified design is nothing more than a soft hammock chair on a trapeze suspension, pos. 4. A hammock chair, or a hanging chair, can also be a semi-rigid frame or generally rigid; in this case, the suspension will fit the cradle pose. 5. But hanging chairs- a special class of furniture. How to make a hammock chair with approx. at 500 rubles, or hard from improvised materials, you can watch a couple of videos below, and for now we will deal with hammocks in which you can lie stretched out to your full height.

Video: do-it-yourself hammock chair

Video: how to make a hammock chair in 2 hours

Common to all

The complete hammock device is shown in fig. A thimble, for your information, is a somewhat reinforced loop of a cable or rope for hanging. Here you can already see, firstly, the parts are clearly redundant, these are suspensions. When dealing not with lianas, but with ropes made according to TU, it makes no sense to make so many suspension branches when making it yourself. It is especially bad for fans in suspension systems of many branches that it is very difficult to achieve their uniform tension during handicraft production, and a hammock with a suspension that is not properly covered will not allow you to rest properly. An exception is hammocks suspended from one solid cable loop, including slings that support the long sides of the cloth. One of these structures will be discussed below.

Note: A rope is a twisted rope with a spiral twist. Rope - rope braided, cross or other strands with transverse transitions of the strands. With the same diameter, a rope and a cable made of the same material are significantly different in terms of mechanical and operational qualities. In general, the rope loses its strength more slowly during wear, and the rope is better able to withstand large and, especially, short-term loads. Further, if it is said simply "rope", then in this case it doesn't matter whether the rope will go through there or the cable.

For the complete reliability of the hammock in its suspension system, 4 lines are enough for 150 kgf of constant and 300 kgf of instantaneous load each; these are clotheslines from 8 mm in diameter. 4 interconnected and mutually influencing lines can be tightened even without experience in half an hour, and 1.2 tf of permissible jerk will allow you to safely recall, on occasion, the scene between Jean-Paul Belmondo and Gina Plipala from the “Four Hands Game”: “I want you to master me now! Immediately! Right here on this dressing table! Why not skiing? Or standing in a hammock? So, perhaps, too much, but parents can not hurt their heads about a children's battle in a hammock holding 1.2 tf. If a suspension of 4 lines is optimally designed (see below), then if any 2 of all 8 branches (because suspensions 2) break at the same time, the panel will not dangerously warp in the worst case, but the hammock will never capsize.

The weakest points of suspension are braces. Each of them should keep the same 1.2 tf, but for a long time, because. braces 2 and the breakage of any of them means an accident. Therefore, for braces, it is preferable to take a rope with a diameter of 12 mm or more, and not synthetic, but cotton. Internal friction in it is many times greater than in slippery synthetics, and a sudden break on the domino principle is excluded: frayed, disheveled strands will attract attention to themselves before the remaining ones become unable to bear the load.

About fixing in place

The hammock should be hung so that without load, but with a mattress, blanket and pillows, the lowest point of its bed is at least 0.8 m from the ground / floor. The braces should deviate from the vertical within 45-75 degrees. if they go steeper, you will have to lie bent over and lift your legs. The braces are too gentle, according to the school rule of a parallelogram, they will be overloaded.

The brace is tied to the eye or thimble with a bed knot, on the left in fig. To the support is not very thick, about the size of an adult man's hand or thinner - with a faded knot, in the center. On a thick support, the retractable bayonet assembly, on the right, will be more reliable.

Note: if any of the knots here and below seem unreliable to you, tie, tighten and immediately try to give (dissolve). And the knot, covered under load, will keep, of course, no worse.

More about rigging

In addition to 5-6 simple knots, which we will get to know later, to make a hammock, you need to be able to fix the ends of the ropes from marking with a strapping - put marks on them. A simple brand will probably suffice for us (see the figure on the right). Self-tightening is more difficult to apply, it is designed more for rigid and / or slippery cables and ropes, mainly steel. From the edge of the brand to the end of the base rope must be at least 1 of its diameter; better - 1.5-2. Excellent rope marks suitable for a hammock are obtained from shoe laces or similar. They are durable, relatively easy to tighten, sit tight on the base and do not weaken over time.

Note: when tightening a simple brand, the first hose (coil) will come out weakened. To tighten it, the running end of the cord pulled into the loop is pulled out a little, and then tightened again, pulling up the root (initial) end. Do this 2-3 times, and the stamp will lie absolutely tightly. The intersection of the root and running ends of a correctly applied mark should fall approximately in the middle of its length.

Hammocks to choose from

Factory hammocks are most often made with a fan suspension of many lines. In industrial conditions, this is justified: the overspending of 20-30 m of rope is still more cost-effective than introducing into the cycle of operations for the manufacture of a suspension no less reliable, but not so material-intensive.

The fan suspension is not so useless - you can put a pillow on it. However, as mentioned above, it is difficult to evenly fit many branches on your own, and without this the hammock will be inconvenient. Manual operations for the manufacture of a simplified suspension are not difficult, but employees need to pay a salary for them, but not yourself. Based on this, at home it is preferable to do, in order of increasing complexity of work, hammocks of the following types:

• The simplest Mexican hastily from improvised materials, without any sewing and cutting work.
• Sewn with a panel on the eyelets.
• Sewn universal, for hanging in Mexican style and on traverses.
• Wicker mesh, without any decor, but practical.
• Braided using macrame technique.

About fabric and braid

The fabric for single-layer panels of embroidered hammocks requires dense and durable: technical, upholstery, canvas, denim, any coarse satin or twill weave. In the case of using technical or upholstery, you need to make sure that the warp threads go along the length of the panel. With dress and linen fabrics, this problem does not arise: the width of their pieces is less than the length of the hammock panel.

Rough fabrics are still rough to lie in a hammock without bedding, they are rarely bright and patterned. Therefore, the panels of the sewn hammocks described below can be made double (see above, about Brazilian hammocks) from softer fabrics. In this case, the underturns of the seams (see below) are sufficient single, not double. The work is almost not complicated, because. power seams in the products described below go only along the contour of the panel. But you still need to lay a simple trouser braid to reinforce the loaded seams: the weaving of the braid is designed so that it evenly distributes the load along the seam. The trouser tape is thin, and along with 2-3 layers of jeans or canvas, an ordinary household sewing machine will take it.

It doesn't get easier

With a short trip to the country, or, say, at a halt on a mushroom hunt, a hammock of the “it’s impossible” type will turn out from any suitable piece of fabric: sheets, blankets, bedspreads, covers, etc. Double bedding should be folded in half lengthwise. How the simplest hammock is made can be seen in fig. A bed of 1.8-1.9 m comes out of a sheet or blanket of ordinary length. This is enough for an adult of average height to relax after work, and children will generally have a paradise in a hammock. Duration production cycle– less than 10 minutes, including the selection of suspension supports.

On eyelets

A hammock on grommets requires a minimum amount of sewing work for this class of products, but from noon or a day it will be necessary to wire the slings and tighten the suspension. The maximum width of the cloth is 0.9 m; length - up to 2.3 m. The length of the suspensions along the longitudinal axis is within 1/4-1/3 of the length of the panel. The design feature is that the entire sling system is a solid end (piece) of cotton rope.

Technological equipment, except sewing machine- the simplest slipway, a board with nails driven in at the edges. A 3-meter board is enough to make a hammock with a bed of 2 m. But, since it is much more difficult to fit short suspensions, it is better to find a board that is more authentic and make the suspensions close to the maximum length. The hammock will not become weaker from this, but it will be more convenient, only the cable will leave more.

The appearance and arrangement of the hammock on the grommets are given in fig. The braid in the seams on the short sides needs to be wide, from 8 cm. In the seams of the backstage sleeves on the long sides, a braid of 3-4 cm is enough. In the middle of one of the long sides in the backstage seam, an armhole of 10-12 cm is left for tightening the cable.

Eyelets for curtains are unsuitable in this case: they are too weak and will soon rust in the open air. You need to take eyelets for truck awnings or sails. You can find them in special stores, at a cargo service station or in a yacht club. Pliers for crimping powerful eyelets are not always and everywhere available, so it’s better to first make sure that there are eyelets within reach, agree on the installation, and only then sew the panel.

If the hammock is hung by the eyelets, they are put on nails in the slipway. If the suspension is on homemade thimbles (see below), then the running end of the cable is simply circled around the nail. The cable is tightened as follows: armhole - half sleeve, extreme hole in the traverse, nail or eye, the next hole in the traverse - grommet, etc., until the entire suspension is carried out. Then - another extreme hole in the same traverse, a sleeve on the other long side, another suspension, other half sleeves, an exit to the armhole. The ends of the cable are connected with a benzel (pos. B in the figure) and the joint is tightened into the sleeve. The free ends of the rope must remain at least 5 cm long!

If the hammock is on the eyelets, then before tightening the slings near it, they are assembled into a tourniquet, imposing a brand. This must be done without removing the workpiece from the slipway. If it is supposed to be suspended on thimbles, then first the slings are brought into a bundle with a temporary brand, and the thimble is woven only after the suspensions are tightened.

Tightening is best done on weight, hanging a hammock with one eye or a loop of a tourniquet on a nail, hook, bough, etc., and loading the lower ring / loop with a load of 10-12 kg. traverse, then pick up (tighten so that it weakens) through the grommet conjugated tight. So that the fitting is not too long, and in general, so as not to get confused in it, pairs of lines are sorted out strictly in order, clockwise or counterclockwise. To eliminate the resulting distortions of the traverse, the cable is pulled in the sleeves. If you do not go astray, then the hammock will be perfectly fitted in 2-3 passes.

Universal

This is perhaps the most successful of home-made hammocks: it is economical in material, comfortable, strong and durable. Its prototype is a suspended berth from a complete set of military kungs. The bed of a universal hammock can be up to 2.5 m long and up to 1.4 m wide. Hanging in any way in this case is possible because the sleeves for hanging on the short sides will be reinforced at the edges with an embedded rope. If this hammock will be hung and / (or only) on a soft suspension (in this case, not at all Mexican), the length of the bed should be at least 2.2 m, and its width should not exceed 1.1 m. 1 in Fig.) are the minimum allowable.

Tailoring begins with sharpening the long sides, pos. 2, and puffs into the sleeves of ropes from 8 mm in diameter (pos. 2b). The drawstring for the rope is sewn with a double collar and braid, as in the previous one. case, pos. 2a. The ends of the ropes should not protrude beyond the edges of the cut, but they should not be more than 1-1.5 cm away from it either.

Having turned up the sleeves of the suspension on the short sides (pos. 3a) and sewing the lapels, places I (pos. 3 in the figure) are stitched with an envelope or mesh by hand, grabbing the ropes in the sleeves of the long sides, now bent with loops. You will have to sew with a gypsy needle, and the thread needs a harsh waxed or impregnated with PVA and dried. Of course, loosened before impregnation and during drying in free loops. It is easiest to impregnate the thread in the same way as in the manufacture of lampshades or Christmas decorations from threads.

Soft suspension

To hang a universal hammock without traverses, a brace rope is carried into the suspension sleeve and the panel is assembled into a bundle, temporarily grabbing it somehow. Then, on a brace, a gazebo knot is knitted with a rather large loop, pos. 4. Arbor knot is not tightened under any load. Next, insert a spacer (pos. 4a) from any suitable material into the knot loop and do the same on the other side of the panel. Everything, a hammock can be hung.

Suspension on traverses

For the manufacture of suspensions on traverses for this hammock, you will need 2 round wooden sticks with a diameter of 5 cm and a length of 3/4-4/5 of the width of the finished panel W. Pieces of shovels cuttings or one cut in half of sufficient length will work well. You also need to build a slipway from a pair of boards approx. 1.5 m, knocked down in a T-shape. A couple of nails are hammered into the leg T on its far edge along the axis at a distance of 5-10 cm, and the cuttings of the handle, which will be traverses, are fixed on the T stick with 2 more pairs of nails. Not tight, the traverses should move freely between the nails to their caps.

Further on one side of the traverse, at a distance of approx. 5 cm from its end, a double bayonet knot is knitted (point II and the bottom row in the figure), only both ends of the cable (from 8 mm in diameter) are left the same length, about 2 m each. A notch can be made under the knot, but in general a double bayonet is a “dead” knot, in which a smoothly sanded and soaped thick log-pillar rests on weight. Or a heavy torpedo.

The next step is to measure the ends of the suspension lines Λ1 and Λ2 (pos. 5). Its length, from the traverse to the far corner, is allowed at least 1 m. If the hammock is on the eyes, then they immediately thread Λ2 into the ring. The next step - longer the end Λ1 is passed into the hole of the hardwood adjustment bar 5a, then, optionally, into the eye (if any) and led out through the other hole of the bar. The distance between the holes in it is approx. 5 cm; other dimensions are not critical. Then, on the other edge of the traverse, each end is knitted with a simple bayonet (see below, about weaving a hammock), and marks are made on the slings with a ballpoint pen in point IV (pos. 5b). After that, the nodes on the left (according to the figure) end of the traverse are given away.

Now you need to remove the traverse and put a cloth on it, evenly picking it up. If the hammock is constantly suspended on the traverses, then it is advisable, having finally completed the suspension, to also draw an additional seam along the traverse to fix the folds. The fact is that if the traverses are wider than the panel and the suspension sleeve lies freely on the traverses, then the panel will always move to one side. And the folds form a kind of spring that holds the panel evenly. After that, simple bayonets are knitted again at the left end so that the marks stand in the same place.

Finally, they similarly make a suspension on the other edge of the cloth and fit the hammock on weight, as in the previous one. case. But with a huge difference in labor intensity: for tightening it is enough to move the adjusting bars. And in the future, they also regulate the slings. It is possible that during the initial adjustment of the lines it will be necessary to tie knot III 1-3 times, but a simple bayonet is given as easily as it is knitted. In conclusion, if the hammock is on thimbles, loops are braided on the tops of the suspension, see at the end. In this case, after adjusting the lines, you need to make marks on their bends so that the thimble does not “leave” to the side.

Loose ends

In node III, there are ends that cannot be used to decorate a hammock (see below). They can be grabbed with stamps to the appropriate ends of the lines. But it is better to leave up to 3 m long, turning into bays. If the hammock is hung on a frame with a top bar or, say, on trees with horizontal or gently sloping branches, then the free ends of the lines can be thrown over them and sway by pulling on the ropes.

Simplified version

The same suspension principle makes it possible to significantly simplify the hammock cloth if it is suspended only on traverses. A diagram of a simplified hammock on 4-sling suspensions with an adjusting bar is given in fig. But in this form, it is actually not very comfortable: the head either falls through or rests against the traverse, and the pillow crawls into the gap between it and the edge of the cloth. A possible way out is to put 5-6 ordinary eyelets for curtains, only stainless ones, on the short edges of the panel, and through them tightly fasten the edges to the traverses with a cord.

simple braided

Weave a net hammock across the cloth, i.e. along the long sides. For the base, you will need 2 traverses, the same as in the previous one. case, but 10-15 cm longer than the width of the cloth. At their ends, at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge, 3 holes are drilled side by side, or one oblong, for carrying slings from a cable from 10 mm. The carrier cable is carried out with one ring, fastened with a benzel, as for a hammock on the grommets, but without bends for additional suspension branches. Through the holes in the traverses, the carrying sling is passed, overflowing with a figure eight.

The next stage is to prepare a pair of racks with a height greater than the width of the panel and at a distance from each other greater than its length. The base (frame) is attached to the uprights, at least by wrapping the supporting slings with a cord across them, and they are pulled tight. The now hanging traverses are aligned according to the distance between them and vertically, tightening / loosening the lines in eights.

Next, a shuttle is prepared for a cord with a thickness of 4 mm. It will need 120-200 mm on the cloth, depending on the size of the hammock, so you will have to weave in rows - so much cord will not fit on the shuttle at once. Therefore, based on the size of the network loop diagonally approx. 7 cm, we count the number of rows of loops along the width of the cloth (so many pieces of cord will be needed), and multiply its length by 2.2, We wind the cord of the corresponding length on the shuttle, it will be enough for 1 row. The surplus will go to waste, because. extra knots scattered in the middle of the cloth will not give it a look.

Now we start weaving, pos. 1 and 2 in fig. To ensure the evenness of the loops, a round mandrel is used from a smoothly sanded shovel handle or something like that. An angular mandrel is not good, it will get stuck! The cloth is knitted with the simplest flat knots, pos. 3, the same ones on which the primitive hammock was hung. Nets are not knitted with such a knot, it is wide and it will be difficult to pull the net in the water. But for a hammock in this knot, its small thickness is good, when tightened it is less than 1.5 rope diameters.

When knitting, the knots are only tightened, so long as they do not hang out. They finally tighten everything at once, pulling the mandrel several times, this operation is called punching knots. The first loops are thrown onto the mandrel along its entire length, and the continuation of the row is knitted, pushing the mandrel halfway. When tightening the first and last loops, hold the free end of the cord with your hand.

Having knitted the cloth, the free ends of the cords are tied to the traverses with a simple bayonet, pos. 4-7. You can tie double bayonets, it won't be worse. Then they make 3-4 union hoses at each bayonet knot, pos. 8-10, they will create elastic links that ensure uniform tension of the mesh cells.

Now you need to decide what to do with the free ends of the cords. In order not to knit too much, they can be cut to size. Then stop knots are knitted at the ends, and the very tips are fluffed into tassels. It will turn out quite a pretty fringe.

It remains to make additional suspension branches, because. 2 "bare" load-bearing lines are few for reasons of reliability. This matter is solved simply: the additional ends of the rope, the same as the annular carrier sling, of diameter, are tied to the traverses with a double bayonet inside from the eights of the main sling close to them. Next, make a suspension as for a universal hammock. It also makes sense to turn the free ends into brushes, they will turn out to be 4 larger in the corners.

Macrame

It is not possible to consider macramé hammocks in detail here, and you can take on one only if you have mastered the technique of weaving macramé well. We will touch only on individual points, because. a hammock is not a path to the table, not a rug and not a handbag, not only in terms of the amount of work.

First of all, a macrame hammock is not woven across, like a net, but along, hanging one of the traverses horizontally. The cloth is removed, moving from top to bottom. An annular carrier sling is not necessary in this case - macrame weaving distributes the load on the cloth very well by itself.

Second - in general, 2 options for weaving are possible: in 2 threads, pos. A-B in the figure, and in one thread, pos. G-E. Weaving in 2 threads allows you to get by with a cord only 2.5-3 mm thick, which makes the hammock more comfortable, but also gives twice as many loose ends, which are easier to get tangled in. Weaving in 1 thread (cord 4-5 mm) gives a large number of free ends at the edges, sufficient for a reliable suspension. The suspension of many thin lines harmonizes perfectly with the patterned cloth, and its tightness is not so terrifying compared to the overall laboriousness.

The main advantage of weaving in 1 thread is the ability to bring snakes 30-40 cm long along the edges - elastic links that perfectly equalize the tension of the panel. In such a hammock I would lie and lie, if it were not for beer, be it damned. More precisely, side physiological effects from its consumption. However, you can also weave “springs”-macrame using the 2-thread technique in the same way as bracelets are weaved, see fig. on right. Branches 1 and 4 for this take three times the length of the "spring" longer than branches 2 and 3.

Homemade thimble

A braided thimble for a hammock is a rather laborious element, but it allows you to do without purchased steel rings - eyelets. The rope in the thimble wears out much less than the one passed into the eye, and the suspension loop itself is much more reliable. The best material for braiding is also round shoe laces with a diameter of 1.5-3 mm. It will take 2-4 laces, but the quality of the thimble will not suffer from their joints. The step-by-step instructions for making a homemade hammock thimble are as follows (see also fig.):

Note 5: for the durability of the thimble, it will be very useful to shed it with hot wax or hold it for 5-10 minutes in PVA diluted with water two or three times and let it dry properly.

More about knots

All the nodes described above are not the only possible ones suitable for making a hammock. You can use other variants of nodes acc. destination, see, for example, the video:

Video: comfortable knots for a hammock

Supplement in conclusion

It is not so easy to find a place for a hammock, especially on an equipped and well-groomed site. In such a case, in Fig. - drawings of a stand for a hammock made of wood. The design is rather bulky and not quite mobile, but it will allow you not to risk fruit / ornamental trees, house walls, a fence and not start earthworks on the lawn. The installation height of the hooks is somewhere on the chest, and the distance between them is approx. 0.7 m less than the full length of a hammock with suspensions, but without braces. Eyes / thimbles in this case are thrown directly onto the hooks. And then - it's nice to lie around!

The frame for a hammock will allow you to put it in any convenient place. Very often, if necessary, hang such a bed in the place where you like it, no suitable trees or other reliable supports, in such cases a hammock frame will always help you out.

It is very convenient to use hanging hammocks, but the main disadvantage of using them is that it is not always possible to find a place to install them. You can use trees for this or bury 2 pillars, but in this case you get a stationary structure. In order to be able to install such a bed in any convenient place and take it with you on vacation, it is best to make a collapsible frame for it.

There are 2 main types of hammock - fabric and wicker. If we talk about wicker models, then in their appearance they resemble fishing net, and for their manufacture use a thick rope. In this case, the cells have a size of the order of 5-7 cm, located relative to the racks in rhombuses.

Typically, the length of such a grid is within 2-2.5 m, and its width is about 1.5-3 m - it all depends on whether a particular product is designed for one or two people. At the edges, it has strong straps to which ropes are attached, and the resulting tourniquet at the end has a reliable ring or knot.

If you want to make a fabric hammock with your own hands, then for this they take a single piece of durable fabric, it can be a tarpaulin or canvas. Opposite edges are assembled into a bundle and a rope is already attached to it, at the end of which there is a ring or loop.

Having considered what types of hammocks there are, now it will be easier to understand what kind of hammock frame you need to make with your own hands so that it ensures its secure fastening. It is quite simple to make both a fabric and a wicker hammock with your own hands, but you can also purchase a finished product.

The distance between the supports should be at least 4 m, this will provide sufficient tension for the hammock, while it will sag a little. A hammock mount is usually made at a height of approximately 1.5 m, so that a person can comfortably climb into it, but at the same time it will not sag to the ground.

If you need a do-it-yourself hammock stand, then you need to take care of its high strength, reliability, and if a tree or a pole is used to fasten the structure, then their diameter should be more than 10 cm.

There are also designs for sitting, in which case their size will be smaller than standard panels, the suspension is made from above. These designs are convenient to use in gazebos. If a single suspension is performed, then on such a bed you can swing like on a swing. 2 suspensions can be made on each side or 2 on one side and 1 on the other, in which case it will be inconvenient to swing, but this design will have maximum stability and reliability.

The design and method of fastening will also depend on which frame for the hammock will be made with your own hands.

Construction types

For the manufacture of the frame, it is necessary to choose materials that have high strength in order to withstand not only the weight of a person, but also the stress that will occur during rocking.

To do this, you can use a metal profile of a square or round section, a straight or curved wooden bar of the appropriate section. Usually take a bar with a section of 100x50 mm.

The finished structure must withstand not only the vertical load that the weight of a person creates, but also the overturning load that will occur during landing in such a bed, as well as during rocking in it. Therefore, the supporting structure of a hammock with your own hands can be of the following types:

• vertical frame.
• horizontal supports, and the frame is already attached to them - such supports provide reliable strength and stability of the structure, and for this the width of the legs must be more than 1 m.

A frame of this design can be made in the form of an arc, which in its appearance resembles a yoke or looks like an inverted bow. It can also be made in the form of a trapezoid, which, with its smaller base, stands on the ground, and the wide ends are directed upwards. For the manufacture of the first option, a bent beam or a metal profile is used. In the second case, straight pipes or bars are used.

To ensure the normal stability of the frame, additional elements are used. To assemble the structure, you can use bolts, welding or self-tapping screws. If bolts are used, then in order for them to withstand heavy loads, lock nuts or spring washers must be installed.

The hammock stand can be stationary or collapsible: it all depends on how you plan to use it. If in the yard or in the country you have a permanent place for a hammock, then you can make a stationary structure. In the event that you plan to carry it around the site or take it with you to nature, then it is better to make a collapsible structure.

If you want to make such a bed with 2 mounts on each side, then you can create a structure in the form of a house, but then it will turn out more like a hanging bed, in which you will practically not be able to swing.

If there is no shade from a tree on the site, then the scheme for creating such a structure should also provide for the creation of a roof.

Using drawings to work

If you decide to make a frame with your own hands, you can find ready-made drawings according to which to create a design required size. You can independently develop drawings of this design, if you have enough knowledge for this.

Most often, a do-it-yourself hammock stand is made of wood, since this material is simple and easy to work with. To create such a design, you will need a wooden beam and boards.

You will need 2 beams measuring 1800x60x80mm, which are mounted at an angle of 45°C, and the hammock will be attached to them. Between themselves, these braces are connected with 2 boards 2000 × 40 × 80 mm, and in order for them not to move, the braces are fixed with 2 corner boards measuring 166 × 622 × 60 mm.

After you connect all the elements, you will get a trapezoid-shaped design, which has a smaller base at the bottom. For frame stability, 2 paws measuring 1000 × 80 × 800 mm and thrust bearings measuring 80 × 150 × 25 mm are attached below. Eyebolts are installed on the braces, at a height of 1.4 m from the thrust bearing, to which the hammock will be attached.

So that the structure can be quickly disassembled and assembled, all connections are made on M 10 bolts, in which case you can take it outdoors.

There is nothing difficult in creating such a design. We looked at creating a frame from wood, but by the same principle, you can make a frame from metal profile round or rectangular section.

To provide maximum term services of a wooden frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic, and then coated with paint or varnish. If you hide him from the direct impact of negative natural factors, then this will significantly increase the service life of the structure. For the winter period, if your frame has a collapsible design, it is better to disassemble and hide it before the onset of heat.

You can buy ready-made or make a hammock with your own hands. If you have basic skills in working with wood or metal, then you can create such a frame yourself, while spending minimal money and time, as a result of which you will get a strong, reliable and beautiful support for a hammock.

The South American Indians did not suspect that one of the items of their daily use in a millennium would gain unprecedented popularity on all continents. A person who spends 2 hours in this product replaces for himself night sleep relieve stress, relax.

Individual hammocks are especially attractive and warm. They are not very difficult to build or secure in your favorite vacation spot. For him, with your own hands, you can choose various materials and installation methods.

Basic fastening rules

There are a lot of varieties of hammocks, but the main rules for placing these structures contain a number general provisions. It is important to adhere to them in order to protect your vacation from negative situations.

To install a hanging bed yourself, you need to consider the following requirements:

1. Check the reliability of the supports. Their role is played by special poles, swing holders, walls of the room or trees (forest, garden). The diameter of natural supports should not be less than 20–25 cm. The pillars should be deepened into the ground by at least 1 m. If a stationary place is chosen, the foundations of the pillars can be poured with concrete. Wooden or metal poles are covered with paint (anti-corrosion treatment).
2. The portable swing holders used must be made of durable materials, all connections in them must be securely fixed. Be sure to take into account the rule according to which the load on the supports can be reduced by increasing the sagging of the hanging lounger.
3. The distance between the supports is traditionally 3 m. With manually installed supports, the distance is calculated according to the following formula: 30 cm is added to the length of the product. In cases where the product is attached to natural supports, the fixing height and the degree of tension vary. You can go lower and pull more. Or tie higher and make the sagging stronger.
4. The mounting height of this household item, according to standard rules, is determined at 1–1.5 m. For a specific situation, more accurate calculations can be made: the height is equal to the distance between the supports multiplied by 2 and divided by 3.
5. The ropes used as fastening material must be thick and strong. Their diameter is not less than 8 mm. It is better to thread through the eyelets (if the model allows it).
6. For the base it is better to use natural fabrics. They are much easier to adapt to the shape of the human body, allow it to breathe. Synthetic fabrics are lightweight, durable and cheap. However, they lack the benefits natural materials. It is optimal to use tarpaulin or camouflage fabrics, mattress teak. It is advisable to change the fabric base every 2-4 years.
7. A knitted (knotted, corded) hammock is preferable from cotton materials. They are tightened tighter in knots, more pleasant to the touch compared to nylon threads.
8. In places of friction, fixing the rope to the support, a collar (cambric) is put on it. This is protection in the form of a nylon tube, which has the necessary elasticity and flexibility.

Location selection

To successfully fix the hammock with your own hands, you need to accurately select the location. If the intended installation is carried out in natural conditions, then two trees with the desired trunk thickness are searched. The distance between them is set to determine the hanging height.

It is desirable to fix the hanging lounger tightly. Over time, the canvas (bed) will definitely stretch, sag. A low-lying canvas will make the product inconvenient to use.

The requirements for a specific installation site are:

• reliable protection from wind and sun;
• the platform under the product must be flat (the existing pits will fill with water after rain, turn into puddles, spoil comfortable conditions for recreation);
• distance from noise sources (garage, pumping station, transformer, highway, etc.);
• proximity to beautiful and cozy corners of the garden or plot: near the pool, gazebos, on the terrace, in the patio area.

The surrounding attractive landscape is considered a good location. This will allow you to fully enjoy the rest, the beauties of nature or your own site.

Rafter-strap suspension system

The finished hammock is equipped with slings (straps). They are a mandatory structural part of the product. Slings are a continuation of the product. The slings include connecting elements and grips:

• rope branches;
• links;
• hooks;
• rings;
• staples;
• carbines.

Slings (straps) are made of thick rope, belt. To create one of the most common options for the truss-and-strap system, a belt 8 m long is taken. Then it is divided into 4 segments. They may be equal in length or different. If the length is not kept the same for all segments, then equal dimensions are established for paired straps.

A knot is tied on a carabiner.

You can use an adjustment bar. Then the installed product will receive an aesthetic appearance, it will become more convenient to use.

The belt is threaded in one direction, pulled out of the other.

The belt is passed through the hole in the carabiner. Then it goes into the adjustment bar.

The end of the belt is brought out.

The end of the belt (tail) must be fixed.

This place is stitched with a dense nylon thread. It is sewn with small, dense stitches. You will need to stitch 3 layers. Alternatively, you can put one metal rivet.

4 straps are built and fastened to the rim (harness) on four sides with carabiners.

Slings in pairs (from 2 sides) are tied to a bar horizontally located between the branches of trees. The distance between the straps should be 40-60 cm. The length of the straps can be adjusted, giving a different configuration to this piece of furniture.

To give the configuration of the chair, the front straps are made longer, the rear straps are shorter.

Rafter-strap systems allow the use of hanging loungers as chairs and swings. This type of fastening is quite reliable and less laborious. It is not required to carry out complex calculations, to check the smallest details with the drawings.

Creation of portable fastening (frame) structures

It is not always possible to find trees desired thickness, and even located next to each other at the required distance. It is not possible to dig in poles or supports for a stationary structure due to lack of time or lack of desire to “attach” to one place. The optimal solution in such situations, it becomes the creation of a portable structure.

A stable portable rack, which you can build with your own hands, has a number of advantages:

• lightness, mobility, compactness;
• freely moves in space;
• installed anywhere on a flat surface;
• made by hand from materials that are often easily accessible;
• durability, style appeal, aesthetic originality;
• much lower cost compared to the price of the finished mounting frame.

What materials and tools will be needed

From necessary materials and tools need to be prepared in advance:

• board (section 100x30 mm) for crossbars - 2 segments 1.3 m long, 2 segments 1.5 m long;
• wooden bars (section 80x80 mm); longitudinal bars 3 m long (2 pcs.), side mounting beams 2 m long (2 pcs.), thrust beams 1.45 m long (2 pcs.);
• fasteners (metal studs, washers, nuts);
• stain or varnish for processing wood products;
• hooks (rings, carbines) for fixing the canvas;
• grinder;
• drill;
• circular saw (hacksaw).

Stages of building a portable rack

In order for the portable stand to be reliable and functional, when making it, observe established sequence actions.

1. On the initial stage all prepared bars are polished. Some advise to carry out this operation at the final stage. But when the structure is already assembled, not all places will become available for grinder. Therefore, it is better to clean all the bars and boards before starting installation. For the same reason, all mounted parts can be opened with a stain, let them dry. Then the bonding points will definitely receive anti-corrosion protection. But, on the other hand, in the process of assembling the structure, the coating may be damaged. If you are not lazy, then you can first produce complete installation, then disassemble the structure, cover it with stain (or varnish, paint), and then carefully assemble everything again.
2. Decks are being made. These are side parts located at opposite places in the structure for installing the web. AT upper parts oarlocks (hooks) are mounted on which this product will be hung.
3. Side beams 2 m long are placed between the longitudinal bars 3 m long. Through the through holes they are fastened with bolts (studs).
4. Support bars are cut at a certain angle. This angle is calculated by measuring the camber at the upper points of the jibs, which must be at least 4 m. The jib and the stop are rigidly fastened together.
5. The lower parts of the thrust bars are placed between the longitudinal bars, fixed with bolts (studs). The slope and location of the jibs should be symmetrical. The approximate angle of inclination of the jibs is 60 °.
6. Longitudinal bars and jibs are installed on prepared crossbars. Each of the crossbars is made from 2 pieces of boards. Below, to ensure reliable stability, there is a segment longer (1.5 m), above it - shorter (1.3 m).
7. The crossbars are installed under the longitudinal bars along the edges on both sides. The distance from the center line of the crossbars (center) to the edge of the longitudinal bars is not more than 60 cm.
8. The canvas is attached to the prepared frame.

Such a design can not only be transferred to different places in a personal or summer cottage, but taken with you on vacation. Mounting, dismantling the rack and fastening takes a few minutes.

Possible mounting frame options

Design features hanging bed attachment frames may have slightly modified differences. However, the set of tools and materials changes little. The general manufacturing technology remains similar to the steps already described.

Provided drawings and drawings fix step by step process assembling frames for this furniture product. They are easy to understand. The structural parts remain the same. Only the options for combining them change.

Based on the proposed step-by-step guides, you can even imagine the technology of their manufacture using the images of ready-made frames for fastening. Based on the available tools and materials, the designs can be modified at your own discretion. The main thing is that the bearing parts are durable, and the base is stable.

Below is a variant of the frame made of metal joints. During its construction, welding work individual nodes. If there is no welding machine, such work can be done in the workshop, and general installation carry out with your own efforts.

There are options for combining metal and wooden parts. The advantages of such structures are that the structure is less bulky, easier to assemble and disassemble. However, metal fittings will most likely have to be made to order.

And here is one of the most budget options. All wooden structural parts are made from tree stem parts. Details are carefully cleaned of bark, polished and fitted to each other. wooden elements covered with colorless varnish. This frame looks stylish and original. And certainly no one doubts that it was made by hand.

Original design and functional solutions

The problem of fastening is solved in combination with other tasks. On the frame holding the hammock, an awning canopy is constructed from awning fabric. It turns out the original gazebo. On one of the supporting legs of the frame, a small coffee or coffee table. Graceful supports can be made from natural tree trunks. You just need to carefully look around and find a tree of a suitable configuration.

By connecting 2 hammocks, setting them on a pair of supports, they create a family bed. From above, it is covered with a kind of canopy made of dense waterproof fabrics. The perimeter can be surrounded by light tissues. You can use mosquito nets.

The original designs include a combination of natural materials with added details. Here is a structure, one part of which is a tree growing on the site. It is complemented by a second support and a horizontal crossbar. Together we got a design that is successfully used to install various kinds these products.

At the heart of all the various embodiments of fastening hammocks, the requirements of safety and respect for nature remain mandatory.

The majority of the population of large and small cities tend to get out into nature, to the country house or to a country house for the weekend or on vacation. The proximity of forests, reservoirs promise a wonderful rest for both soul and body. Many people like to relax lying in a hammock. But often in the absence of closely standing trees, the problem of attaching a hanging bed arises. In such a situation, a portable hammock frame can come to the rescue, which you can assemble with your own hands. How to make a hammock with your own hands, we will consider in this article.

For self-manufacturing hammock frame, you need to stock the following materials and tools:

• A bar of hardwood with a section of seventy by seventy or eighty by eighty millimeters five meters long, from which it is necessary to saw off two bars one and a half meters long for racks and two bars one meter for jibs of the same section;
• Two bars of hardwood with a section of seventy (eighty) by twenty-five millimeters, two meters each and four bars of the same section, one meter long each for the crossbars;
• Two radial threaded hooks;
• A sufficient number of galvanized screws - wood screws fifty millimeters long;
• Screwdriver;
• Two bolts with nuts and washers one hundred and forty millimeters long and ten millimeters in diameter;
• wrenches;
• Enamel, stain of any color that matches the environment of your dacha;
• Paint brush for applying a protective layer on the structure of the future hammock.

If wooden details frames are purchased already planed, you can proceed directly to the assembly of the hammock structure, otherwise, using a manual or electric planer, we plan all the details in all planes. We proceed according to the attached work plan:

Instructions for building a hammock frame

We attach crossbars to the lower ends of the bars for racks with self-tapping screws .

At a distance from these ends, one hundred and twenty centimeters, we screw in radial hooks. To facilitate the assembly process of the hammock, drill preliminary holes at the attachment point. The hole diameter is two-thirds of the hook screw diameter. For convenience, after partially deepening the hook screw into the wood, insert a small diameter steel rod into the hole and tighten the screw using the rod as a lever.

We fasten two two-meter bars to the ends with crossbars with self-tapping screws, installing them on two parallel sides so that the transverse bars are perpendicular to the longitudinal ones.

Saw off the ends of meter bars with a section of 100 × 50 mm with a carpenter's saw. and (100 * 100) at an angle of forty-five degrees after preliminary marking. In one of the ends on the saw side, drill a through hole with a diameter larger than the diameter of the bolts.

Install the bars between the longitudinal bars of the hammock frame as shown in the figure and mark the place for drilling holes in the uprights. Attach the jibs sawn off at the ends to the longitudinal bars with self-tapping screws. Screw the second end of the jibs to the bolted posts.

At the junction of the longitudinal bars with the jibs, screw two more transverse support bars with self-tapping screws.

On one of the vertical bars, make the mounts for the sun umbrella by cutting two strips of tin and attaching them with self-tapping screws to one side of the rack.

For the convenience of moving the frame around the site, furniture wheels can be attached to one of the extreme transverse bars on small self-tapping screws, which can be purchased at any hardware store.

After assembling the structure, install a hammock in it and conduct sea trials, placing all future users in turn in a hammock on a frame.

For ease of assembly, below is a drawing of a hammock.

Click on the picture to enlarge.

In case of successful testing of the frame for strength, apply a layer of stain or two layers of enamel on all wooden parts with preliminary drying for at least a day indoors or under a canopy.

If desired, on the racks of the frame of the future hammock, you can install several semiconductor lamps that do not require summing up electrical wires, which will allow you not only to relax in the evening, but also to enjoy reading your favorite book or magazine.

The advantage of such a frame is also the possibility of installing it not only on the territory land plot, but also on the terrace, in the gazebo, directly in one of the rooms of the house. The use of wood in the manufacture of the product ensures its environmental friendliness, lightness. The ease of installation can also be used when dismantling the frame, for example, for the winter period, if it is not possible to install it in the apartment. Application of welded metal structures won't give you that option. In addition, you can make a wonderful vacation on a pond, fishing, if you take with you the details of the frame and a hammock and quickly assemble them directly at the pond. In a hammock you can sunbathe, or just relax in the shade under an umbrella.

Dear readers, comment on the article, ask questions, subscribe to new publications - we are interested in your opinion :)

What a pleasure to stretch out in a hammock in nature. Take a nap or read a book fresh air. But here's the trouble: even if there is a hammock, it may happen that in a suitable place there will not be two suitable trees to hang it. In this case, a hammock frame comes to the rescue, which can be installed in any place convenient for you.

• wicker;
• fabric.

Wicker hammocks are net, such as fishing, only woven from a thicker cord or rope (2-3 mm) into one or two threads. Moreover, the network is woven so that the cells (side 5-7 cm) in relation to the suspension device are oriented with rhombuses. The length of this network is usually 2-2.5 m. The width is 1.5-3 m. The edges of the network on two opposite sides are attached to strong slats, which burst the cloth. Next, the ropes are assembled into a bundle, which ends with a fastening loop or ring.

fabric hammock(Mexican cocoon) is made from a single piece of durable fabric (tent tarpaulin, canvas, dense upholstery). Two opposite edges of the fabric are assembled into a bundle, to which a cord with a fastening loop or ring is attached.

It is for these two loops or rings that the hammock is attached to two supports located at a distance of at least 4 m so that the hammock sags a little, but is sufficiently stretched. Mounting height is located as follows ( about 1.5 meters), so that a person can easily climb into it, but so that, sagging under weight, he does not touch the ground. The supports must be very strong. If these are trees or dug-in poles, their diameter should be at least 10 cm.

The dimensions of the hammock panels are approximately the same and depend on whether it is designed for one person or two.

There are, however, hammocks for sitting. Then the panel has a smaller size, and the suspension can be located on top. It is convenient to hang such hammocks in arbors.

The stability of the hammock is an important factor. And although a single hammock mount makes sense, allowing it to swing like a swing, but with a smaller amplitude, there are hammocks that have two suspensions on one side and one on the other, or two suspensions to each side. In this case, the possibility of swinging is much less, but the stability of such a hammock will be maximum.

The designs of hammocks are considered in such detail because they directly determine the design of the frame.

Hammock frame designs

The frame of the hammock is made of durable material that can carry large enough load determined by the weight of a person and the stresses arising from possible swinging. Frames are usually made from metal pipe, round or rectangular profile, or wooden beam, straight or bent.

The purpose of the frame is to carry a vertical load from the weight of a person and a lateral, overturning one, when swinging or landing in a hammock, determine its shape and composition of the main supporting structures. There are two of them. The first one is - vertical frame to which the hammock is attached. Second - horizontal bars- the legs to which the frame is attached, and which, leaning on the ground, do not allow the frame to tip over. The width of the legs must be at least a meter. Both designs can be made in different ways. But the main two design differences concern the frame. It can be done in the form:

• arcs, like a yoke or a stretched bow with the ends up;
• as trapezoid with a small horizontal base below and ends pointing apart and up.

In the first case, the frame is made of a metal pipe or a bent wooden beam. In the second, from a pipe and segments of a straight wooden beam.

The bottom of the frame is reinforced additional elements, which makes it wider and strengthens the fastening to the legs. Structural elements are attached to each other welding(in the case of a metal pipe), bolts with nuts, screws and self-tapping screws (in the case of a wooden structure). Nuts in bolted connections, given the dynamic nature of the load, must be strengthened lock nuts or spring washers with a cut. All structural elements are covered with paint or varnish.

The design of the hammock frame can be stationary or collapsible. The stationary design is intended for permanent use in the country or near the house with a backyard area. Collapsible - good for field trips.

Other structures are rarely used. For example, the frames can be two, articulated at the top and moved apart at the bottom, playing the role of both the frame and the legs. The frame can be made in the form parallelepiped like a house. In this case, the hammock is attached simply to the upper crossbars.

These two designs are good for hammocks with two mounts on each side and are more hanging bed than a classic hammock.

For areas devoid of shade, you can find a structure with a roof of fabric, matting or planks. It is usually mounted on individual brackets and attached to the frame.

Expensive extra class sets are complemented mattresses and mosquito nets.

Frame materials for a hammock

Metal used for the frame - steel, sometimes galvanized steel, covered with an additional layer of protective paint.

Wood- this is, as a rule, a 100 × 50 beam of the most different breeds well-dried wood. For the legs, pine is usually used, for the frame, beech, glued pine, mahogany, tropical woods.

For fasteners, keeping in mind the operation in the open air, bolts, nuts, washers, screws and self-tapping screws made of steel with zinc or copper coating are used.

Manufacturers and cost of frames for hammocks

Frames for hammocks are made many countries peace. The most popular are products from Italy, Brazil, China, Russia and Ukraine.

Budget Chinese and domestic collapsible models from a metal tube cost from 3400 rubles. (frame for a hammock No. 1, Murom) and 3500 rubles. (Leco-IT Green, Kazan) up to 7600 rubles. (wooden frame for a hammock Izhevsk). A solid pine frame Ultra (Stary Oskol) will cost 18,152 rubles. Italian hammocks from bent wood can cost from 22,000 rubles. (Venezia) up to 148,000 rubles. - a set of a complex wooden structure made of bent timber with a handmade hammock, mattress and mosquito net.

Most frames are sold with a year or two warranty. However, most manufacturers predict them a long life of 20-30 years with careful operation.

Hammock frame can be made with my own hands. Usually self made wooden beam frame. There are plenty of examples on the internet based on appearance which, you can make your favorite frame. But there are also assembly examples with a consistent description of operations and drawings.

The main material for manufacturing is ash timber and boards. The frame structure consists of two braces (1800×60×80) mounted at an angle of 45 0 on a strapping of two boards (2000×40×80). Each of the braces is additionally strengthened against the shear force by two corner blocks (166×622×60) also mounted on the strapping. Together they form a strong trapezoidal supporting structure.

From the bottom of the frame are mounted two legs of the base (1000 × 80 × 800) with beech thrust bearings (80 × 150 × 25). On the braces, at a level of 1.38 m from the lower plane of the thrust bearing, two eyebolts are installed, to which they will be attached hammock strings. The whole structure is assembled on bolts (M10) and nuts and can be disassembled for transportation and storage and quickly assembled for use anywhere.

In conclusion, we can make sure that if you need a hammock frame, you can find the most various designs for every taste and budget. When buying, you should pay attention to the protection of the material from which the frame and fasteners are made. After all, the frame will work in the open air, being exposed to environment. During operation, it should be remembered that the service life of this useful, and sometimes expensive product, can be extended if, during bad weather, it is covered from direct exposure to moisture. There is nothing complicated in the construction of the frame, and any person who is friendly with tools and inclined to tinkering can make a frame to his own taste, spending only on materials.