Do-it-yourself sink installation is technologically quite simple. Some significant nuances will be described further in the relevant sections. Plumbers also charge inexpensively for installing a sink - the work is elementary.

At the same time, a washbasin and a kitchen sink are a responsible matter: not only aesthetics and convenience depend on them, but also the general sanitary and hygienic situation in the apartment. Therefore, before undertaking the installation or ordering it, you need to properly understand the designs of these plumbing fixtures and choose the right one for yourself. Let's start with the general technical features.

Siphon

The simplest siphon is an S-shaped bend of a corrugated outlet hose, rotated 90 degrees in a vertical plane. For a washbasin, in theory, it is quite enough: used toilet paper, sanitary pads and leftovers from dishes do not get into the sink.

However, there is a “but” - when cleaning the sewer with a plunger, the corrugation plays strongly and breaks over time, and when cleaning with a pneumatic plunger (powered by a canister with compressed inert gas), it often breaks immediately. It is impossible to clean the corrugation with a cable at all. Therefore, if the sewerage in the apartment is unimportant and you often have to “break through”, you need a hard siphon with a revision (a removable cover for inspection and cleaning), and in the kitchen it is absolutely necessary.

Rigid siphons are of two types: a knee with a removable hatch (obsolete) and a bottle siphon. The latter is two concentric pipes of larger and smaller diameters. The smaller one is inserted into the larger one with a gap at the bottom. The bottom cover of the siphon-bottle is a threaded hatch; outlet - on the side.

Cleaning the bottle is simple: put on gloves, put a bucket in, unscrew the bottom hatch and the whole "byaka" flops into the bucket. You just need to follow when buying, so that outer pipe was with some narrowing upwards, otherwise the pollution may get stuck and you will have to pick it out.

The pinnacle of the evolution of siphons and at the same time tulip washbasins (see below) is a decorative chrome-plated siphon with a revision (see picture on the right). In addition, it is also absolutely hygienic and functional. But the cost is an order of magnitude higher than usual, the sewer wiring for it is only built into the walls, which is also not cheap, but professional work is needed for installation.

Installation of a siphon with revision is always done before hanging the sink; corrugated siphon - as convenient in place. In both cases, a transitional cuff is required from 32 mm (diameter of the sink outlet) to the actual diameter of the sewerage pipes, from 40 to 100 mm; need to look locally.

Faucet and fittings

The best mixer is with a ball valve and a swing arm. When buying it, you need to make sure that the faceted parts of the threaded fittings of the flexible supply pipes - henok - are located on different levels, otherwise, during installation, they will not sit on the mixer nozzles. In a mixer with separate taps, this problem does not arise.

Henks are more durable and most reliable than metal-plastic ones, but installing a mixer with them is possible only in an already suspended sink, which is inconvenient. Plastic hanks in a woven fabric shell can be pulled out through the opening under the sink and attached without bending down and in the light, but they sometimes tear.

How to properly mount the faucet on the sink or sink -.

Washbasin installation

The installation of the sink in the bathroom is carried out by hanging it to the wall on standard brackets and self-tapping screws in dowels. Remember that even a complete pedestal from the bottom of the sink to the floor is not a load-bearing part! Self-tapping screws must enter the body of the wall by at least 70 mm, so we take them at least 100 mm long if there is plaster under the tile on the wall, and even longer for thicker coatings.

Dowels - propylene. Polyethylene is fragile, metal ones rust, PVC cracks from changes in temperature and humidity.

The diameter of the screws is the maximum possible, which the brackets allow. Remember that the sink of any washbasin is suspended, and the lever, even with light pressure on its edge, is powerful. If the diameter of the holes for the screws is less than 6 mm, then they need to be drilled out, or such a sink should not be taken at all, especially since such “alternative” products most often turn out to be silumin (very fragile) or plastic, fragile.

Sometimes a sink with a cabinet is installed in the bathrooms (see the top picture). But she needs a spacious bathroom, pollution can accumulate under the cabinet and inside it, and the capacity of a solid-looking dressing table is actually small: a siphon with pipes takes up a lot of space, so this solution is more of a tribute to tradition.

Video: hanging sink installation

Washing installation

Installing a sink in the kitchen is easier in terms of strength because it has reliable support in the form of a table. An exception is a sink with sinks under the countertop, see below, but these are practically never found in everyday life and require highly professional work to install.

But technologically, a kitchen sink is more difficult, since you have to work inside kitchen furniture, bent over, in the dark, and you need to join the carpentry. Accordingly, hired craftsmen take quite expensive for such work. Therefore, if you are used to tinkering, it makes sense to install the sink in the kitchen yourself. Installation features different types sinks .

Sealing

All modern plumbing comes with standard gaskets. When working with them, the following rules should be observed:

• All sealing work must be carried out only on completely dry fittings. Can be dried with a household hair dryer if necessary.
• If possible, do not touch the mating surfaces with your hands. Captured - degrease by washing in water with household detergent for dishes.
• Put paronite (red or yellow, hard) gaskets between plastic parts and metal supply pipe.
• Plastic pipes of standard fittings are given with a margin, they need to be cut to size, but in the absence great experience- only with a pipe cutter for plastic. The slightest distortion of even the smoothest cut - and the joint will flow, even if you crack.
• Lubricate rubber seals prior to installation. silicone sealant.

The latter needs some explanation. Rubber and silicone individually last several years, but together they are surprisingly durable. As it turned out, the point is the difference in their coefficients of thermal expansion: the materials all the time, as it were, knead each other, preventing them from hardening tightly and cracking. If the installation of plumbing was carried out taking into account the specified, you can not think about leaks for many years.

Washbasin installation height

Washbasin installation height none normative documents not strictly regulated. SNiP give recommendations of 80-85 cm, but this is based on average growth data. Scandinavian construction sites recommend 85-90 cm, and in Trondheim, the home of the Viking giants, even 90-95 cm. In Ecuador and Colombia, where most of population - short Indians and mestizos, recommend, on the contrary, 75-80 cm.

So do what is more convenient - in a small family you can hang lower; in the heroic - higher. True, if you plan to install a washbasin with a pedestal, you will have to become attached to its height.

Types of shells and their features

The usual hanging sink is familiar to everyone, so let's move on to more modern varieties.

Tulip

Washbasins with half pedestal

The tulip washbasin first appeared in railway cars and exists there in its original form to this day. His distinguishing feature not a pedestal at all, but a narrow deep shell. It had to be deepened to reduce splashing.

In the small-sized bathrooms of apartments built in the post-war years, such a design fit, and for aesthetics (the siphon was in full view), the tulip sink was equipped with a pedestal. Massively appearing in bombed-out England and Germany, the innovation spread widely around the world, and soon all the shells on the pedestal began to be called tulips, although they already looked like a tulip no more than a dahlia or an odontoglossum orchid.

Long-term and extensive practice has shown that the tulip, in general, has not justified itself, primarily from a sanitary and hygienic point of view. The cavity in the pedestal is a favorite abode of small house animals, and smears from the floor along the perimeter of the pedestal under a microscope can stretch out the face of even a burnt sanitary doctor.

half tulip

Modern sanitation and hygiene proceed from the fact that the floor in the bathroom and toilet should be as free and accessible as possible for cleaning. Any, even the smallest nook, becomes a source of infection, therefore, tulip shells have recently been replaced by shells with a half-pedestal - half-tulips (see fig), no less aesthetic, but not cluttering the floor.

Semi-tulips have one drawback: to clean the siphon, you have to remove either the entire shell (in the figure below), or its rather heavy and fragile part in weight, risking dropping and breaking it (in the figure - above). But the washbasin siphon is extremely rarely clogged, so this drawback is very relative. It is completely eliminated in the sinks with a decorative semi-pedestal siphon, which were mentioned above.

Sink over washer

Washbasin over washing machine(see the figure on the right) is a relatively recent innovation and, I must say, it was invented magnificently. Everything ingenious is simple - for centuries no one guessed that it is quite possible to place the grate of the washbasin sink behind its bowl or in its far corner.

For the inhabitants small apartments this solution is a godsend. Unfortunately, the price of a popular product is still disproportionately high. But after all, you can make a plastic sink yourself, and pick up a mixer with a siphon separately.

An approximate installation scheme for such a sink is shown in the following figure. A siphon for such a sink needs a bottle siphon, with an additional pipe for connecting the outflow of a washing machine.

double sink

The double or two-cup sink first appeared as an attribute of luxury apartments with a spacious bathroom. But the manufacturers soon realized that a double washbasin, to paraphrase Ostap Bender, is not a luxury, but a means of hygiene: it is most needed in a working family living on a salary. Here, the price of minutes of morning toilet on a working day is higher than some hustle in the bathroom.

Double washbasin

Currently, double washbasins with a total width of up to 80 cm are produced, which makes it possible to install them in standard bathrooms. Ease of use (albeit quite relative) is achieved by turning the horizontal axes of the spouts by 45 degrees in different sides, see fig. The water supply and drainage from the siphons are common to both bowls, so the installation of such a sink does not present any additional difficulties.

Heated sink

Recently, washbasins with heated water have been actively advertised. Although the supply hot water they really don’t need it, such a device is nothing more than the fruit of marketers’ tricks. Flow-through electric heating requires exorbitant high costs electricity, costly and complex rewiring for more current, and the same for the shower. It’s easier to find or free a nook in the hozblok and.

Types of sinks

The main types of kitchen sinks are shown in the figure. The most common familiar overhead sink; in the figure on the left. It completely replaces the countertop, the methods and features of its installation are well known and have been described many times.

The next view, in the figure in the center, is a sink embedded in a cutting table. Its advantage over the invoice is only aesthetic, the installation is rather complicated, and the countertop must be made of water- and chemically resistant material. The mortise sink can be without a wing, as in the figure, or with a wet wing - semi-overhead.

On the package mortise sink a template must be printed for cutting the opening under it. Check when buying and, if there is none, do not take it: it is almost impossible to remove the template on your own, you need a height gauge with a parallelogram copier or a laser spatial scanner.

1. before outlining the template cut out of the package, inspect and measure the countertop from the inside out. Cutting its frame and transverse support bars is undesirable;
2. before cutting (with an electric jigsaw), glue the outlined opening around the perimeter from the outside with masking (paper) tape. A jigsaw shoe that has already been used may stain or scratch the decorative finish;
3. cut lead, not too leaning on the tool. From strong pressure, a thin flexible saw blade can bend in a vertical plane, go sideways, and it will take a long time to refine the cut with a sherhebel or a chisel so that the sink falls into place;
4. seal with silicone not only the cut, but also the countertop by 3-5 mm around the perimeter, so that the infection does not spread there from flowing under the rim of the sink;
5. Remove any silicone streaks that come out when installing the sink with a cloth soaked in table vinegar.

Mortise sinks are also installed under the countertop (in the upper figure on the right); hold such a sink overhead brackets and silicone. The table top must be natural stone or modified wood of valuable and resistant species: teak, ebony, red quebracho.

The sink under the countertop is an accessory of the elite kitchen. They are performed in two or three cups, they require high skill for installation, they have no obvious advantages over others, so we will limit ourselves to mentioning that there are such in the world. Those interested can watch the installation technology in the video below.

Installation of a sink in a bathroom by Remzak plumbers is affordable prices, a guarantee of reliability and tightness of the structure, correct connection to sewerage and water supply, the comfort of using the sink in the bathroom for many years.

Our home service offers its professional help for residents of Moscow!

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Order the installation of a sink in the bathroom

Why it is worth ordering the installation of a bathroom sink on the Remzak website:

• We have all necessary tools and good specialists who can install the sink quickly, accurately and efficiently.
• We provide advice on the selection of plumbing
• At the request of the customer, we purchase all components, including a sink (sink), siphon, mixer
• We provide a full range of services: from dismantling to installation of the sink in the bathroom
• Low prices(there is a system of discounts)
• We give a guarantee for the installation of a sink or moidodyr. If during the warranty period there is any defect in the work performed, you can contact us to eliminate it.

Installation steps and methods

Installing a sink in a bathroom always includes several basic steps:

• Dismantling the old sink
• Water connection
• Ensuring proper water drainage
• Washbasin fixing
• Washbasin connection
• Setting the correct water supply
• Performance Testing

In some cases, it may be necessary to dismantle the old sink and replace it with a new one.

How can a sink be installed? There are few basic installation methods:

• Mounting on brackets- the hanging sink is securely attached to the wall using a special metal structure.
• On the pedestal (a sink with a pedestal is already moidodyr)- the sink is securely fixed on the tabletop of the cabinet and is connected to all communications with the help of flexible hoses.
• On a semi-pedestal or on a pedestal- the bowl of the sink is well fixed to the wall, and the pedestal or semi-pedestal is placed right next to it.
• On a hanging shelf- the sink rests on a special shelf, where you can also put various toiletries.

Which bathroom sink installation is best for you depends on personal preference, the design of the room, as well as the size of the room. Our specialist, when necessary, can suggest which installation will be the best in your case.

bathroom sink cost

What affects the final cost of installing a bathroom sink? The price of installation and connection depends on the chosen model of the sink, on the list of works: will it be necessary to dismantle the old sink and faucet and dispose of them, whether Additional services: sealing with silicone, purchase of materials, preparation of walls. Below are approximate rates.

The prices for the installation of the sink are indicated without the cost of installing the faucet

The cost of the services of our masters may differ in each case. For price clarification

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Methods and options for attaching shells

When carrying out repairs, they always face the installation of new plumbing: bathrooms, bathtubs, sinks. To date, there is a huge variety of washbasins and sinks of various geometric shapes: oval, round, rectangular, asymmetrical and symmetrical, paired and angular. In addition, washbasins and sinks differ in the absence or presence of holes for mounting the faucet and are divided into several groups, taking into account the installation method. Before installing the sink, it is necessary to calculate the methods of its fastening to a permanent place, the installation procedure is largely due to this factor, the nuances of installation depend on the size and shape of the product.

Washbasins in the bathroom differ not only in a variety of shapes and colors, but also in the way they are attached.

Tools and materials for fixing and installing a washbasin or sink:

• brackets (often come with a washbasin);
• impact drill or hammer drill;
• drills for concrete;
• screwdriver, a set of screwdrivers;
• hammer, chisel;
• a set of wrenches, a gas wrench;
• dowels or screws;
• eyes;
• puck rubber gaskets;
• hydraulic level;
• hex nuts;
• bushings-gaskets;
• masking plugs;
• long straight rail;
• construction pencil;
• silicone sealant;
• winding or FUM tape.

Mounting the wash basin on the wall

Or wall mounted washbasin is often used in bathrooms, toilets and other sanitary facilities.

As a standard, the height of the bowl should be 80 cm from floor level to the top of the sink, however this figure may vary depending on conditions and circumstances.

Bracket mounts should be located on the wall 80 cm from the floor.

Wall fixing is based on two special bolts included in the washbasin fixing kit. Fastening is done by screwing plastic dowels into the wall, provided that the wall is brick or plasterboard. If the wall is plasterboard, then under it it is necessary to install a metal structure with wooden beam. The washbasin is put on bolts screwed into the wall, and then fixed with plastic washers-nuts. Silicone should be applied to the side of the washbasin that is in contact with the wall to prevent water from flowing under the sink. The joint between the bowl and the wall can be filled with silicone sealant after installation has already been completed.

The faucet is attached to the sink itself, but the supply of water and the siphon must be done aesthetically and beautifully, since an open space remains under the sink (excluding the tulip). The best option there would be an example of how the water supply and the outlet of the sewer pipe exit on the wall under the sink. Thus, the drain from the siphon should go straight into the wall, and flexible hoses mixer (hot and cold water) must be screwed onto the valves coming out of the wall.

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Installing a sink on a cabinet

Mounting the washbasin bowl on the pedestal is widespread, given type fits perfectly into any interior. Initially, you need to put the cabinet in place of the washbasin and insert the sink into the cutout of the countertop. Install a drain grate equipped with a rubber gasket in the drain hole, and then tighten it with a nut under the sink. A lock nut with a wedge-shaped locking ring must be put on the drain grate pipe, after which the siphon cup must be connected to the pipe. After the actions taken, the siphon glass is pressed against the locking ring, and the lock nut is screwed onto it.

After that, it is necessary to connect the sewer to the siphon pipe, the non-corrugated and inflexible pipe must be temporarily disconnected from it. To do this, by removing the plug or gag, the sewer socket is opened, a rubber sealing ring with a smaller diameter than the siphon outlet pipe. The pipe disconnected from the siphon is screwed into place with a clamping nut. To check the tightness, water is drawn into the sink drain, and if there is a leak, the nuts are tightened more strongly. If there is one on the sink, then it is mounted, while its fastening is carried out on a horseshoe-shaped bracket or on a clamping nut. A mixer with a gasket inserted into the hole is fixed from below with a horseshoe or nut, after placing gaskets with washers under them. The horseshoe-shaped bracket is fastened with a nut to a stud mounted from below into the mixer. The washbasin on the stand is installed in the same way.

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Mounting the bowl on brackets and on a pedestal

Connecting the washbasin siphon with a flexible hose to a rigid pipe.

With the help of a pencil, a level and a long straight rod, it is necessary to draw a horizontal line at a height of 80-85 cm from the floor in order to determine the location of the washbasin. A length equal to the thickness of the sides of the bowl along the edges is laid down from the horizontal line, with which it will then rest on the brackets. At a similar distance, a mark is made from the horizontal line on the other side of the sink. Both of these marks must be connected by a straight line to each other, this will be the level for attaching the bracket. Then the bowl is turned upside down, the brackets are installed on its supporting side planes, and they must be turned upside down, in the same position in which they will support the sink. Between the longitudinal axes of the bracket mounting level, the distance is laid.

When the mounting level line is aligned with the support plane of the bracket and when the longitudinal axes are aligned with the marks of their attachment, by leaning the bracket against the wall, marks are made for mounting through the holes in the brackets. After that, holes are drilled at the attachment points previously marked on the wall, then plugs are hammered into them and the brackets are screwed.

The bowl is mounted on brackets, the places of its attachment are marked from below, then holes are drilled, plugs are hammered inside, and the product is finally installed in place. The washbasin is screwed on with wrench dowels, on which gasket washers are previously put on. After that, the dowels are securely tightened to give stability.

It is easier and more convenient to install the faucet on a wall-hung sink before fixing it to the wall.

After all the manipulations, a drain system with a drain pipe and a hydraulic seal is connected to the washbasin, the same way, as when installing a washbasin on a cabinet. In the vast majority of cases, the installation of the sink on the pedestal is carried out against the wall, while this product is attached to it. When mounting the bowl on a pedestal, it is important that the drain hole is centered. After that, the sink is pressed against the wall, then marks are made through the mounting holes in the places where it will be attached. Holes are drilled with a drill, and plugs are inserted into them, after which the holes in the sink and in the wall are combined, and the bowl is attached to the wall with dowels and a wrench. Don't forget to use spacers. After that, the drain siphon is attached to the sink, and its pipe is inserted into the sewer socket.

Depending on which modification will be selected, installing a sink in the bathroom or in the kitchen involves an appropriate list of activities. After all, most modern manufacturers of sanitary equipment recommend a choice of huge assortment wash basins for both bathroom and kitchen. If the structure is fastened incorrectly, repairs can be damaged not only in your apartment, but also in the neighbors living below you.

Before installing a sink in the bathroom, you must determine:

• what is the practicality of the material used to create the washbasin;
• what shade of the washbasin will be the most relevant in the shower room;
• which fixture for the bathroom sink is the most comfortable and ergonomic.

Types of washbasins for the bathroom according to the method of attachment

Do-it-yourself installation of a sink in a bathroom implies, first of all, an understanding of the instructional points regarding this sanitary equipment, in particular, how to fix it.

So, today there are the following types of fasteners for washbasin bowls in a bathroom or shower:

Other Important Details to Consider When Buying a Bathtub Sink

Before you put the sink in the bathroom, you need to clearly understand which particular variation of the model should be purchased (for example, with or without a pedestal), and also determine its desired scale. To do this, it is worth making preliminary measurements of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room where it is planned to subsequently fix the equipment.

The configuration of the bowl can be anything, but the length is not less than 550 mm, otherwise the water from the tap will splash onto the floor.

Washbasins are produced deaf or with holes for the mixer, in this regard, you need to decide in advance on the method of attaching the latter. It is advisable to purchase it together with a washbasin, so that even before making a purchase, it is possible to diagnose the equipment for compatibility.

Another important aspect is the correspondence of the plumbing system with the fixing components of the washbasin. Complete with equipment, as a rule, a siphon is also attached, and in case of its absence, you must immediately select the optimal model.

The vending sink must be carefully checked for all kinds of scratches and chips. For example, if you purchase built-in equipment or a cup with a pedestal, then you should check on the spot how the product falls into place, and once again make sure that the pedestal has the desired height.

And the last important “trifle” - if the purchased equipment does not have fasteners, you must immediately purchase them so as not to miscalculate with the accuracy of fixing the sink and other structures to it directly on the spot.

Self-assembly

Having decided to figure out how to properly install a wall-mounted washstand bowl, with a pedestal or on a pedestal, you need to imagine the entire procedure for the necessary actions. Only in this way the installation will be carried out efficiently and without problems.

First you need to dismantle the old structure, usually consisting of a sink, cabinet and other elements. Necessary:

1. Unscrew the nut, with which the installed mixer is fixed, disconnect the piping and carefully remove it.
2. Then unscrew the nuts from the underside of the washstand and disconnect the siphon from the drain outlet. The liquid must be drained from it in advance.
3. If the siphon needs to be replaced, it will need to be disconnected from drain pipe. It is advisable to plug the water supply hole with a cork or a rag so that bad smell sewerage did not penetrate the bathroom.
4. Remove the washbasin that has served its park resource from the support (bedside tables, countertops, brackets, etc.).

The installation of the equipment itself consists of fixing the sink either on the wall of the room, or on the countertop or pedestal itself. Fixing the washbasin on the wall must be carried out with the accuracy of observing the horizontal level, while it is advisable not to tighten the bolts too tight (it is enough to fix the product so that it simply does not stagger).

It is much easier to install a washstand in a table-top rack or in a nightstand, since in this case the element is installed separately from the wall. TO finished equipment with a pedestal, all plumbing and drain communications fail.

After the sink is fully installed in the bathroom, it is imperative to open the water tap and drain the water to check the structure for leaks. If a leak occurs, then most often the cause of this is poorly tightened connections. To eliminate such a defect, you need to check the fastening sewer pipes and coat the joints with sealant.

It should be noted that there should not be gaps of more than 3-5 mm between the sink and the wall of the room. Otherwise, the ingress of water on the floor may cause the gradual destruction of the wall finish under the influence of dampness. The best solution- seal the gap with sealant in the same way as pipe joints. It must be remembered that the correct installation and daily care per plumbing equipment significantly increase the duration technical operation, as well as the comfort of using the installation.

Video instruction

You don't have to be a professional plumber to install a bathroom sink.

Such work is quite accessible to everyone. But first you need to define for the sink

location - preferably near hot and cold water pipelines.
Tools and materials

• wrench
• open end wrench
• combination key
• roulette
• pencil
• level
• protective glasses
• drill
• drill bits for tiles and concrete plastic dowels hammer
• mounting studs

SAFETY

Wear safety goggles when drilling holes to avoid injuring your eyes.

sharp pieces of tiles.

1 We measure the required height of the sink with a tape measure.
2. Make a mark with a pencil in the right place.

3. We draw a sink installation line along the level.

4. Having attached the sink to the wall, we mark the installation locations of the fasteners.
5. Determine the centers of the holes.

6. Drill holes for fasteners.

7. Insert plastic dowels.
8. Hammer plastic dowels all the way
9. We screw the fixing studs into the dowels

10. Install the sink pedestal.

11. We put the assembled sink on the mounting studs and tighten the nuts on them.

Do not forget to put gaskets under the nuts and put washers.

Single lever mixer installation

Sometimes it happens that it is necessary to change a failed mixer or an old one.

after the repair no longer fit into the interior new kitchen. to install

a new mixer, you must first dismantle the mixer.

Tools

• wrench
• open end wrench

Attention
After assembling the mixer, it is usually connected to hot and cold water.

Additional Information
Single lever mixer kit with flexible hoses

1. We screw a flexible hose into the mixer.

2. Screw the stud into the threaded hole.
3. Insert the sealing ring.

4. Screw in the second flexible hose
5. Putting the sink on the floor, we wind the flexible hoses one by one into the hole in the sink.

6. Install the mixer in place.
7. We put a rubber gasket on the hairpin.
8. Install the C-plate.

9. We fix the mixer with a nut
10. Install the grate on the drain.
12. We install a decorative ring-frame in the overflow hole.

Dismantling the sink on the pedestal

If your old sink has fallen into disrepair or has ceased to please you and you

If you want to replace it, it's quite easy to do.

Advice
Until the bolts securing the sink to the wall are unscrewed, it is better not to remove the pedestal: it will serve as a support for the sink, especially if the work is carried out alone.
When removing the sink, care must be taken not to drop the pedestal: it is not fixed.
Place a cloth on the floor before loosening union nuts on flexible hoses.

materials

• wrench (or plumbing pliers)
• open end wrench
• combination key
• screwdriver
• cloth gloves

Shut off hot and cold water supply.

1. Make sure the water is turned off.

2. We unscrew the union nuts with an adjustable or open-end wrench right size. Can

also use plumbing pliers or a “butt” key if the nuts

stuck.

3. Remove flexible hoses. Remove plastic caps from bolts

4. Unscrew the bolts or unscrew the nuts.

5. Disconnect the siphon: unscrew the lock nut at the top, slide the wedge seal down, unscrew the nut from the drain pipe and remove the siphon.

6. Carefully remove the sink.
7. After removing the sink, remove the pedestal. If the design allows, you can put a new sink on it.

Installing a siphon on a sink