Sewing machine drive. Foot drive Machine from an electric drill

Many men like to do something with their own hands, with the help of improvised means. It can be wood, metal, plaster and so on. In order to make a product out of wood or metal, you will probably need a lathe. But you can also make a lathe with your own hands, for this it is enough to stock up on the necessary knowledge and parts necessary for assembly.

There are quite a lot of materials on the Internet dedicated to the manufacture of a foot-operated lathe. It is this type of lathe that is very interesting and unusual, since it was used even before electricity appeared. The most interesting is the design itself, which consists of elementary parts, and everything is done quite simply, despite the fact that the processed blanks are no worse than those made on modern machines. Well, we offer our own scheme of a foot-operated lathe.

Component parts of the machine: 1. flywheel of the machine; 2. crankshaft; 3. drive belt; 4. support posts; 5. headstock drum (front); 6. headstock shank (front); 7. caliper; 8. coupler (upper); 9. headstock (rear); 10. bolt; 11. thrust bearings (supports); 12. axle for the pedal; 13. the pedal itself; 14. traction for the pedal.

The most surprising thing that is first of all paid attention to is any absence of electrical elements and an engine. In order to bring the machine into operation, it is enough to use the foot pedal paired with the crankshaft. In order for the workpiece to rotate at a uniform pace, a flywheel is fixed to the crankshaft. The workpiece is fixed in the space between the shank at the headstock and the cone located on the tailstock. When making a lathe, a massive round part can be used as a flywheel. An example of such a detail can be a cut of a tree trunk of a necessarily suitable diameter, or a home-made disk made of boards connected in several layers, and subsequently processed with a file and sandpaper.

In order to rotate the headstock drum, a leather or rubber belt is needed. This belt must be put on the flywheel and connected to the drum at the headstock. Subsequently, when the flywheel rotates, the drum will also rotate. In addition, since there is a difference in diameter between the flywheel and the drum, the number of rotations on the latter will be much greater than on the flywheel. Therefore, by setting the handwheel in motion with the foot pedal, you get high revolutions on the drum, which will allow you to easily process the part.

In order for this design to work to the fullest, it must be connected into a single structure using woodenracks. These racks must rest on special supports (thrust bearings), which will give the machine stability and steadfastness. For such a design, boards with a thickness of 20 mm or higher are quite suitable.

Stand fastening: 1. support (thrust bearing) with a groove; 2. rack with wooden spike.

Special ligaments are attached to the longitudinal area of ​​the machine. They are installed both at the top and bottom of the lathe. In the lower part, on one of the ligaments (the one that is the longest), the pedal will be hinged. A caliper will be fixed on the upper ligament near the working area, moving along the entire length of the upper ligament. On this support, the tool for processing the workpiece will be fixed. Such a tool can be a chisel or chisel, a file or a block for grinding. After the caliper is set in the desired position, it is fixed with the help of an eccentric located in its lower part. In this case, the caliper must be made of solid wood, since it can withstand a considerable load.

The caliper, in turn, consists of a base in the form of an H-shaped part, and two other elements - the tool support and the lower sliding bar. These two elements are inserted into the grooves of the H-shaped part, and at the same time each performs its function. The tool is fixed in the upper part, and the lower one slides along the upper tie. The eccentric, in turn, is a metal part consisting of a metal disk and a square hole. There is such a hole on the bar of the handle, and when the caliper is located in the right place, a fixing rod enters this hole.

Caliper design: 1. support part; 2. H-shaped part; 3. screws for fastening the support; 4. eccentric disc; 5. axis; 6. plank; 7. screw; 8. handle; 9. bar for screed.

Diagram of the caliper eccentric

Working headstock shaft

The crankshaft of a lathe is made of a steel bar, the diameter of which must be at least 10 mm. A sleeve is installed on the crankshaft shank, which prevents damage to the rack located near the rotation of the threaded part.

Flywheel scheme with crankshaft: 1. crankshaft; 2. fixed flywheel; 3. support post; 4. sleeve.

Pedal design: 1. support pedal; 2. traction loop; 3. coupler supports; 4. loop-hinge.

The connection of the racks and supports with the pedal is made according to the scheme. The tailstock can be made without a limiter, because the rotating part of it is a conical nozzle. One of the main details is the axle. It should consist of an M8 bolt, a wing nut and a washer. The latter, in turn, must rest against the rack while clamping the part. The end of the bolt must be pointed in order to facilitate the rotation of the headstock.

Tailstock design: 1. Bolt M8; 2. Washer; 3. Nut; 4. Headstock

The part to be machined on a lathe should in no case have rectangular shape. Firstly, such a workpiece is very difficult to process, and secondly, an inexperienced turner can easily get hurt and injure himself. In the case of a foot-operated lathe, the workpiece is not held as securely as in complex lathes, so it is better to pick up round workpieces.If there is nothing besides a rectangular workpiece (for example, a bar), it is better to first process it with a rough file, removing and rounding the sharp corners.

For a long time I was interested in the topic of what will happen without electricity and fuel, or everything will collapse or we need to invent.
I found an article with interesting drawings and photographs of machines with a manual (foot) drive.
The machines are quite simple, it is not difficult to figure out and make it yourself.

Here is a partial reprint of the article:

The prehistory of the appearance of the first machine tools begins with the most ancient historical periods, when our ancestors, who possessed primitive tools-tools (mainly made of stone), drilled holes, for example, to put a hammer or ax on a stick. And even then a device arose, which was constructed approximately in the following uncomplicated way. A rod was cut out of durable wood, one end of which was sharpened. With this pointed end, the rod rested against a recess in the stone filled with fine-grained sand. A bowstring was spirally twisted around the rod. When the bow was set in motion, the rod began to rotate (like a drill), which ensured the grinding of the recess with sand. As a result, a hole was drilled in the stone.

Paleolithic Hole Drill

In ancient times, in Greece and Rome, there were also devices for working ceramics and wood. According to the historian Pliny, a certain Theodore, a resident of the island of Samos (in the Aegean Sea), 400 years BC successfully used a device on which mechanically rotating (from a foot drive) metal products were turned. Ancient decorations testifying to this have survived to our time.

A drawing of a lathe that has survived to this day
Greek master Theodore (VI century BC)

So, even in ancient Egypt, a lathe "machine" with a beam hand drive was used. On this device, stone and wooden crafts. In this distant prototype of modern machine tools, such basic structural elements of the machine as the bed, stocks, stands for cutters, etc., already appeared in the bud. Both hands of the worker took an active part in the work of the "machine". The return rotation of the product, the feed of the cutter required the application of great physical effort by a person. These "machines" with minor modifications have been used for many centuries in different countries peace.

"Machine" with a manual beam drive, used in
ancient Egypt for turning

Working on an ancient Egyptian lathe

In the future, the device for turning has undergone a number of design changes. It was already set in motion by a human foot and tied with a whip to two neighboring trees. The workpiece was fastened between two honed stakes tied to tree trunks.

Lathe "machine" with a foot drive

The rotation of the product was carried out with a rope, the upper end of which was tied to a springy tree branch, in the middle the rope wrapped around the product, and the lower end of the rope ended in a loop. The person inserted his foot into the loop, and, pressing and releasing the rope, brought the product into rotary motion. it turning device used for a very long time in a wide variety of modifications.

At the beginning of the 15th century, the base of the lathe was a wooden bench. On the bench-bed there were two grandmothers connected by a bar that served as a support for the cutter. This relieved the turner of the need to keep the cutter on weight. Machine parts were made of wood. Above the machine hung a flexible pole fixed on a pole. A rope was attached to the end of the pole. The rope was wrapped around the shaft, descended and tied to a wooden pedal. By pressing the pedal, the turner set the part in rotation. When the turner released the pedal, a flexible pole pulled the rope back. At the same time, the workpiece rotated in the opposite direction, so that the turner had, as in bow machines, to alternately press and then move the cutter away.

Lathe foot-propelled
(from the book "The House of the 12 Mendel Brothers", 1400)

AT early XVII century, machines with a continuous rope manual drive from a flywheel located behind the machine begin to be used. The following figure shows a lathe described in the book of Solomon de Caux, published in France in 1615. On this machine, the ends of the product were processed, and the carriage support was pressed against the copier with weights.

Manual rope lathe with flywheel
(from the book of Solomon de Caux, 1615)

(from tool-land.ru)

From the pictures you can visualize what the simplest machines look like, and in which case they are not difficult to reproduce.

Household sewing machines have three types of drive devices - manual drive, foot and electric.
Some machines can be equipped with a drive of any kind (for example, all models of the Podolsk Mechanical Plant named after M. I. Kalinin; "Radom" or "Archer" (NDP); "Veritas" (GDR).

MANUAL DRIVE

The manual drive consists of a housing 1 (Fig. 17), which is attached to the sleeve of the machine with a bolt 13. A pair of cylindrical gears 4 and 6 with a gear ratio of 1: 3 is installed in the housing. The gears are closed with a cover 8, which is attached to the housing with two screws 9. The small gear 6 is made integral with the leash 3, which enters the flywheel window. The small gear is pivotally mounted on the axis 5, and the large gear on the OSB 2. The large gear has protrusions 12, to which the handle 11 is attached with the help of the axis 7 and the stopper 10. The stopper 10 is spring-loaded and can be pulled when the handle 11 is moved to the non-working position. The handle is moved to this position for storage or transportation in order to avoid damage and reduce the size of the machine.

When the handle 11 is rotated, the leash 3 drives the flywheel of the machine. It is necessary to rotate the handle only from yourself. In this case, the flywheel and the main shaft of the machine will rotate in the desired direction (i.e., towards itself). For ease of movement, it is necessary to periodically lubricate the axles of the large and small gears.

FOOT DRIVE

If the household sewing machine is equipped with a table, then they use a foot drive. To bring the machine into working condition, it is necessary to connect the flywheel to the drive wheel 1 (Fig. 18) using a round leather belt 27 and a metal clip 28.

The foot drive consists of a pedal 17, movably mounted on two axles 16. The axles 16 are fixed with locknuts 24 on the brackets 15, which in turn are bolted to the bottom 14 of the table. Bracket 18 is attached to pedal 17 by means of screws. Sleeve 22 is inserted into the bracket hole and secured with lock nut 19 S-S). A ball end of the thrust 21 is inserted into the sleeve, which supports the thrust bearing 23 from below. To mitigate the impact and reduce knocking during operation, a leather washer 20 is laid between the thrust bearing 23 and the ball end of the thrust 21. The upper end of the thrust 21 is screwed into the head 26 and fixed with a lock nut 13 (section B-B). A separator 12 is also inserted into the head and balls 7 are placed, which are pressed with a round nut 6. Axle 9 is fixedly attached to the drive wheel 1 by means of a washer 10 and a nut 11. For ease of rotation, the balls 7 are lubricated with a thick lubricant, which retains its properties for a long time and ensures the normal operation of this wheel. node.
Drive wheel 1 is pivotally mounted on the axis 5 by the central hole and is held by the head 4 (section A-A). Axis 5 is fixed in bracket 3 with bolt 2. Bracket 3 is attached to the side wall of the bedside table with three bolts 25. The foot drive frees the hands of the worker to perform the sewing operation. Working on a machine with a foot drive requires a certain skill, although the significant mass and large diameter of the drive wheel contribute to the uniform rotation of the main shaft of the machine during the jerky movement of the pedal 17.

ELECTRIC DRIVE

The electric drive consists of a single-phase collector asynchronous electric motor and a ballast rheostat. The electric motor can be built into the machine body or mounted. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. The built-in electric motor makes the machine more compact, better protected from external damage.

The outboard motor is easier to repair, replace the contact brushes or the drive belt. The most common domestic electric drive MSH-2, produced by the Serpukhov plant. Attached electric motor 7 (Fig. 19) is attached to bracket 1 with two brackets 6 by means of nuts 8. Bracket 1 is attached to the machine body with bolt 2 (as well as the bracket of the hand drive housing). Pulley 9, fixed on the motor shaft, clip belt 3 transmits rotation to the flywheel 5, fixed on the main shaft of the machine with a friction screw 4.
On fig. 20 shown circuit diagram electric drive. The electric motor D and the ballast rheostat RP are sources of spark discharges that cause radio interference. To suppress radio interference, the plastic housing of the electric motor is coated on the inside with a special composition that does not transmit radio interference to the air, and the rheostat is equipped with special capacitors C1 C2 C3 and inductive coils L1 and L2, which are a filter that prevents harmful current impulses from entering the household electrical network.
The ballast rheostat is located in a carbolite housing. It is made in the form of a foot pedal and serves to turn on the machine and regulate the speed of the main shaft during its operation.
The base 1 (Fig. 21) is connected to the cover 4 with four screws 27 through rubber bushings 26. The body 10 of the rheostat is attached to the base 1 with two screws 11 with nuts 12 and washers 13. The rheostat is insulated from the housing with asbestos washers. Two columns of carbon disks 33 0.4-0.5 mm thick are inserted into the openings of the body 10.

Technical characteristics of the MSH-2 electric drive

Two holders 8 are attached to the body 10 with screws 9, in the holes of which carbon contacts 7 are inserted.
Into the hole in the lid inside a button 6 is inserted, the fork of which covers the pin 5 of the pressure lever 3. The lever 3 is hinged on the axis 38 inserted into the holes of the rack 39. The rack 39 is attached to the base 1 with a screw 2.

The lower arm of the lever 3 is in contact with the pusher 37, which moves under the body of the rheostat 10. Under the action of the spring 15, the contact disk 16 rests against the plug located at the end of the pusher 37. The disk 16 is fixed on the rod 14. A sleeve 36 is put on the end of the rod 14, which under the action of a spring 15, it is pressed against the head of the rod 14. A contact plate 34 and a restrictive plate 35 are pressed onto the sleeve 36. Guide screws 32 are inserted into the hole of the rheostat housing 10 on the right. Contact plates 19 are fixed at their ends. wires 29 coming from the capacitor 23.
The chokes 18 and 28 are also connected to the plates 19. The ends of the wires 25 are soldered to the capacitor 23, connecting the pedal to the electric motor. The chokes 18 and 28 inserted into the holes of the base 1 are covered by the bracket 22 attached to the base 1 by the screw 21. Having connected the plug of the pedal to the mains, you need to press the button 6 with your foot. The lever 3 will turn clockwise and move the pusher 37, which, moving to the right, through the contact plate 34 will press on the contacts 7. The disks 33 will tighten, and the electric motor circuit will close through the carbon rheostat. The more you press the button 6, the denser the disks 33 will be pressed, the resistance between them will decrease, and the speed of the main shaft of the machine will increase. When you press the button 6 to failure, the contact disk 16 will come into contact with the contact plates 19, and the current, bypassing the carbon disks, will flow through the motor winding. The motor shaft at this time will rotate at a frequency of 6000 rpm. When the button 6 is fully released, the spring 15 will open the contact plate 34 with contacts 7. The current will not be able to flow through the motor circuit and the motor will turn off.

The tree is easy to process. Using simple tools, you can create things of amazing beauty and functionality.

Separately, it is worth noting products that have the shape of figures of rotation: tool handles, stair balusters, kitchen utensils. For their manufacture, an ax or a chisel is not enough, a lathe is needed.

Buying such a device is not a problem, only a good machine is expensive. get so useful tool and it’s easy to save money, because you can make a wood lathe with your own hands.

Why is it needed and how it works

The lathe is designed for the manufacture of wooden products having a cylindrical or close to it shape. This is an indispensable item for renovations. country house With wooden stairs, carved porch, but not only.

With some experience, a turning tool will allow you not only to save on purchased decor elements, but also to earn money, because wooden products self made are highly valued.

Whether such a machine is necessary in a home workshop is up to the master himself.

Of course, if you need several handles for chisels, it’s easier to buy them, but if you want to make a solid wood staircase, then a set of balusters will result in a very large amount. Much cheaper to make them yourself. By the way, you don’t even have to spend money on buying equipment - a simple machine can be made in your own workshop using scrap materials.

The principle of operation of a wood lathe is not particularly difficult. The cylindrical workpiece is fixed along the axis of rotation. Torque is transmitted to it. Bringing various cutters or grinding tools to the workpiece, it is given the desired shape.

The main parts of the lathe:

• a bed on which all components are fixed;
• electric drive;
• headstock;
• tailstock;
• assistant.

For ease of use, schemes for changing the rotation speed are used. AT professional equipment this is a real gearbox, a system of gears that allows you to adjust the speed over a very wide range. It is difficult, it is enough to equip a home-made wood lathe with a belt drive with several pulleys of different diameters.

Bed manufacturing

Bed - a frame that combines all parts of the machine into a single whole. The strength of the structure as a whole depends on its reliability, because best material for the frame - steel corner. You can also use profile pipe rectangular section.

First of all, outline the dimensions of the future unit. This indicator largely depends on what kind of products the machine is needed for. The average size home lathe beds - 80 cm. Using a grinder with a circle for metal, two identical blanks are cut off.

Enclosing wooden blocks, squares with shelves up and inward, laid on a flat surface, their upper edges should create an ideal plane. They maintain the same distance between them, about 5 cm. To orient them correctly, use a rail of appropriate thickness.

The longitudinal details of the base are fixed with clamps. Crossbars are made from the same square. There are three of them. Two are attached to the edges of the structure, the third, which is a support for the headstock, about twenty centimeters from the left edge. Exact dimensions depend on the type of motor used and the parameters of the pulley that could be found.

It remains to weld the frame into a single whole. The seam must be reliable and of high quality, you can cook by hand welding or use an automatic machine.

It is important to immediately decide how the machine will be used. Tabletop installation or stand-alone unit available. In the second option, it is necessary to provide legs. They can be made from the same square, or they can be cut from a bar of suitable thickness. The use of wooden legs will save on material, in addition, the machine can be made collapsible.

Machine motor

The basis of the drive of a lathe is the engine. When choosing this unit, it is important to pay attention to its main characteristic - power. For home machine suitable models with power from 1200 to 2000 watts. The type of connection is important, there are single-phase and three-phase motors.

In a small power bench lathe, you can use a motor from washing machine. It is unlikely to cope with the processing of a large workpiece, but it will help to make small decorative elements and kitchen utensils.

Direct drive or belt drive

There are several ways to transfer rotation to the workpiece. The simplest is direct drive. AT this case the workpiece is mounted directly on the motor shaft. Distinctive feature this design is simplicity. With all this, direct drive has a number of significant drawbacks.

First of all, a direct drive machine does not allow you to adjust the rotation speed, which is critical when working with solid material. It is also worth considering the load on the electric motor, especially when working with workpieces of large mass. No matter how well it is centered, it will not do without vibration. Motor bearings are not designed for longitudinal loading and will fail frequently.

To protect the engine from breakdowns and provide the ability to adjust the speed of rotation of the workpiece, it is worth considering a belt drive. In this case, the motor is located away from the axis of rotation of the workpiece, and the torque is transmitted through pulleys. Using blocks of pulleys of different diameters, it is easy to change the speed over a fairly wide range.

It is advisable to equip the machine for the home with pulleys with three or more streams, which will allow you to process wood of any species with equal success, and, if necessary, work with soft alloys.

Headstock and tailstock

The workpiece to be machined is clamped between two devices called a headstock and a tailstock. The rotation from the engine is transmitted to the front, therefore it is a more complex unit.

Structurally, the headstock of a homemade lathe is a metal U-shaped structure, between the side faces of which a shaft and one or more pulleys are mounted on bearings. The body of this unit can be made of thick steel; bolts of sufficient length are suitable for assembling it into a single whole.

An important part of the headstock, as well as the machine as a whole, is the shaft, a spindle with three or four pins designed to fix the workpiece. This shaft is passed through the bearing of one of the cheeks of the U-shaped housing, then pulleys are mounted on it. For their fastening, a key or a means for fixing cylindrical parts is used, the second cheek is put on last, the structure is securely tightened with bolts.

The task of the tailstock is to support a long workpiece, allowing it to rotate freely. Can buy finished part factory machine, or you can use a powerful cartridge electric drill, mounted on a square of suitable length. A shaft with a pointed end is clamped into the cartridge itself.

The front and rear headstock are installed on the frame. It is important to understand that the axes of rotation of both shafts must completely match. Otherwise, a workpiece breakage, machine failure, and possibly an injury to the turner are likely.

Tool support: handpiece

Handpiece - a table on which the tool rests during operation. In principle, it can have any configuration, choose the master, the main criterion is convenience. One of the best options for a handrest is a thick steel trapezoidal turntable mounted on a platform that allows it to be moved in all directions. It will allow you to process any blanks, make products different size and forms.

The simplest handpiece for is a square welded to the base. The height of its upper edge should correspond to the level of the headstock axis.

Wood cutters

As cutting tool for lathe are used. You can buy a similar tool in almost any hardware store. Individual cutters and whole sets are available for sale.

If there is no store nearby, but there is an opportunity and desire, you can do essential tool himself. To do this, you need a metal-cutting machine, as well as a tool steel blade, it can be replaced with an old tool. A high quality turning tool can be obtained, for example, from an old Soviet file.

Mini machine for small jobs

Often there is a need to carve a few small wooden parts, in this case it is not at all necessary to make a full-fledged machine, you can get by with a mini-turning machine for wood. Its manufacture does not require much labor and does not take much time.

The device of such a machine is extremely simple. As an electrical component, an engine from an old tape recorder, powered by an external power supply, is perfect. The bed of the mini-machine will be a piece of board of the required length.

The engine must be fixed. Of course, a belt drive is not suitable for a small machine, the workpiece will have to be mounted on the motor shaft. The best tool for this is a faceplate. The drive housing is a U-shaped plate, in the center of which a hole for the shaft is drilled. The engine in the housing is mounted on the bed with the help of self-tapping screws.

The main part of the machine is ready, it remains only to make the tailstock. Its body is made from a bar of a suitable size. A hole for the shaft is drilled in it exactly at the height of the engine; a dowel-nail of a suitable length is used as it. The headstock is attached with glue and a few self-tapping screws.

Using a power supply with adjustable output voltage, you can create a machine with a variable speed of rotation. It is convenient to regulate the speed using the foot control pedal. The design of this device can be very diverse, it all depends on the available parts.

Electric drill machine

Perhaps everyone home master there is such useful thing like an electric drill. This is a truly versatile tool, they are used for drilling, mixing mortar, cleaning surfaces. Not surprisingly, many people have the idea of ​​using a drill motor to make a small wood lathe.

This is not difficult. By and large, it is enough to fix the drill on the frame, and install the tailstock opposite it, it must be movable, which will allow you to adjust the working distance.

There are many options for manufacturing such a lathe, they differ in complexity, the materials used. In the very simple case the machine is a board or a piece of thick plywood, at one end of which there is an emphasis for a drill with a lock, at the other - a rear beam: a bar with a shaft inside. As a shaft, you can use a sharpened screw or dowel of a suitable diameter.

If you have the skills to work with metal, you can create a machine of just the same professional level. Using it, it is easy to produce products of the highest class. If the machine is needed on a case-by-case basis, the best option- drill machine. If necessary, you can grind the required part, and if you need a drill, it can also be used for its intended purpose.

An excellent alternative to modern lathes and can be used to make simple products even where there is no electricity.

Fig.1. Appearance and dimensions of a homemade foot-operated lathe

40 mm boards are used; the bed is glued with carpentry glue and retinue with nails; to move the tailstock, unscrew the bolt.

Fig.2. Front and rear headstock of a homemade foot-operated lathe.(A round wooden block is clamped between two stops. One of them is movable.)

An elastic wooden or metal arc resembling a bow is fixed above the machine. A rope is tied to the bowstring, which wraps around the blank twice, goes down and is attached to the pedal. When you press the pedal, the rope stretches and turns the part around the axis - this is a working stroke, you can cut it. Releasing the pedal returns the rope, and with it the part, to its original position - this is an idle move.

The cutter is held in the hand, placed on a stand.

The machine bed consists of three main parts: the front and rear headstock and the base. They are sawn from a 40mm board.

The movable and fixed stops are made of M16 bolts and fixed in the uprights at the same height.

File sharpen the bolts on the cone. Drill a hole in the front strut, insert the bolt and secure it with a lock nut.

Make a hexagonal recess in the tailstock with a chisel. Put a hook in it. To prevent the nut from falling out of the socket, screw the metal plate on the front side with screws. Now the stop can be screwed in and out by changing the distance between the centers. Clamping the blank in the centers, secure the bolt with a self-locking nut. If you don’t have one, take a regular nut and apply notches on its end with a file or a hacksaw.