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It is difficult to imagine a garden plot without an apple tree, which has already become its real symbol. A bulk ripe apple is exactly what they are looking forward to from it, for which they are making efforts. But what if the plant is already several years old, but there is still no harvest? You can resort to folk remedies, they often help out in similar circumstances. But first, you should find out the true reason why the tree does not bloom and does not bear fruit.
Possible reasons
There are the most different cases: an apple tree may be young and not bloom, it may bloom, but not bear fruit, or give, but very little. Let's dwell on each case in more detail.
young apple tree
The apple tree has already reached the age when it is time to start bearing fruit (and this is usually the fifth year), but nothing happens. In the very simple case you simply have no idea what variety it is, but the tree may turn out to be one of those that begin to bear crops in the sixth or even the seventh year of life (Sun, Suislepskoe, Anis Scarlet, Anis Striped, Autumn Striped, etc. .).
A well-planted apple tree develops correctly and bears fruit without delay.
If you know that the tree should have bloomed a long time ago, but for some reason is in no hurry to do it, it may have been planted incorrectly. He could be buried too deep, and then he would have to spend more time in the struggle for survival. Such apple trees are easily recognizable by their slow growth rate, and annual growths generally freeze out.
The tree is already seven, eight years old or more
When all conceivable and unthinkable terms have already passed, and there is still no expected flowering, it's time to think about caring for the tree. If all the proper measures are being taken by you, then you may be violating the pruning rules. So, inexperienced gardeners often remove overgrown wood in the form of fruit tree branches. These include garden twigs, spears and ringlets.
Overgrowing branches of an apple tree: 1 - a spear with a growth apical bud; 2 - a spear with a flower apical bud; 3 - fruit twig; 4 - ringlet with a growth apical bud; 5 - ringlet with a flower bud; 6 - fruit bag; 7 - fetus; 8 - fruit bags with replacement shoots (a - ringworm; b - spear; c - fruit twig; d - growth shoot)
Remember them? If these are the same branches that you have been constantly removing until now, then leave them alone, and also refrain from pruning the apple tree for the next year, or even two years. Then take a closer look at where the flowers will be born - the branches that carry them are fruitful.
It blooms, but there is no harvest or there is very little of it
There may be several reasons for this.
- The most original explanation is the lack of cross-pollination. If there are no other apple trees around, then pollination simply will not occur. This version looks exotic and is quite rare, because, as already mentioned at the beginning, the apple tree in our plots is an almost ubiquitous phenomenon, so such problems can only arise for lonely gardeners living in the wilderness.
- Flower buds may not mature well. Most often this occurs in southern varieties (Kuban spur, Idared, Astrakhan, etc.), planted in the northern regions. In this case, the flowers are weak and have a short period for pollination, which significantly reduces the number of ovaries. Also, an excess of nitrogen in the soil contributes to the weak ripening of the kidneys.
- Much more unpleasant is the attack of the flower beetle (weevil larvae). Its presence is given out by drops of sugary liquid on the buds. After hibernation, the weevil crawls onto branches and lays eggs in flower buds, and then the larvae do their job. The result - dry underdeveloped buds.
The weevil is capable of damaging up to 100% of flowers in young gardens, so you need to fight it to victory
Doesn't bloom or bear fruit
And if the apple tree, which used to regularly produce a crop, has ceased to bear fruit?
- It may not bloom if it grows in that part of the site where the groundwater is high. Not only will the roots rot, but also generative buds (namely, they are fruitful) will not appear, instead of them, the number of vegetative ones will increase, and the apple tree will overgrow with greenery;
When planting, it should be borne in mind that apple trees love the sun, but do not tolerate the wind.
- the simplest reason for the lack of flowering is the old age of the tree;
An old apple tree can be rejuvenated with pruning, but don't be surprised if it stops fruiting completely and becomes just decorative ornament garden - age after all
- lack of iron in the soil (and apples are fabulously useful largely due to the iron content). There may be very few flowers, and especially severe cases they may be missing.
The apple tree only bears fruit on one side.
The phenomenon is rather strange, but it has a logical explanation. If you make a mistake when placing an apple tree on the site, then part of it may not be in the most best conditions: lack of sufficient lighting, interference from neighboring trees.
It also happens that in early spring the plant got a sunburn. In this case, it is not necessary to wait on this side in the coming season, not only for fruits, but also for flowers.
Sunburn can kill part of a tree or even an entire apple tree.
It is possible that diseases or pests for some reason have chosen only part of the tree, but this, as a rule, turns out to be only a temporary phenomenon on the way to the complete destruction of the plant.
Does not bear fruit every year
A common occurrence in garden plots- Irregular fruiting. And it's good if you just grow good old ringed varieties like Grushovka, Malinovka or Antonovka, which produce a crop in a year. But it also happens that the tree itself should bear fruit regularly, but for some reason does not. This is usually associated with the mistakes of gardeners who plant in their strip those varieties that are created for other latitudes. In this case, apple trees do not tolerate winter well, they are easily affected by diseases and pests.
Illiterate care or lack thereof also negatively affects fruiting. The tree begins to age rapidly, tends to leave offspring as soon as possible, which results in an abundance of flowers and a small, sour crop. After such a season, the apple tree will recover for another 2-3 years.
A pest like the moth that leaves the tree without leaves, or a disease like the scab that affects photosynthesis and hastens the fall of the leaves, deprives the apple tree of the opportunity to lay more flower buds the next year.
Scab is a manageable problem, and there are many varieties on the market that are resistant to this disease.
Nobody canceled natural conditions against which it is almost impossible to do anything. Severe winters, frosts during flowering, cold and rain that interfere with the work of bees, heavy hail at the time of development of the ovaries - all this can deprive the crop. However, the apple tree will direct all its forces to create huge amount flower buds for next season.
Fruit quality is deteriorating
Often this is due to the lack of proper pruning. The abundance of branches leads to a large number fruits, but at the same time the plant does not have enough strength to form large juicy apples. So they begin to shrink and lose in sweetness and taste.
Problem solving
Let's figure out how to make an apple tree bear fruit.
In the case of a young tree, if it is planted incorrectly, you can correct the mistake by transplanting it higher - the root collar should be at ground level.
If we are talking about the removal of overgrown wood, then we leave all of the above, we do not cut the apple tree for the next year or two. It is necessary to give her time to gain strength and direct these same forces to the cause.
If apple trees bloom every year, but do not set fruits or set them in small quantities, first check with the State Register whether your variety is suitable for growing in the area. If everything is observed, we turn to an excess of nitrogen - here you just need to know when to stop. Its main sources are compost and manure - they are used for a young tree even before the time of fruiting. As soon as the first flowering has occurred, any nitrogen-containing top dressing should be canceled, even grass mulch in the near-stem circle should be avoided. Fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus are what you need to replace nitrogen sources with.
Nitrogen fertilizers in the form of compost and manure are good in moderation and only until the first fruiting begins.
Trapping belts work well against weevil. They are installed before the kidneys swell. Late with them - take on insecticides. The first time they are used when opening the kidneys, the second - after the flowering of the garden. It is at this point that the larvae are more vulnerable to chemicals.
Do not try to use insecticides during flowering - along with pests, destroy insect helpers.
In the case of crown thickening, competent pruning will be required, which should be carried out in spring or autumn. The procedure for deleting branches is as follows:
- get rid of old, withered and damaged branches;
- then from those that grow wrong and hinder others;
- cut weak and thin branches of the second order (which grow from the main ones).
This pruning improves the fruiting of the apple tree. But the lack of iron in the soil can be corrected with the help of iron-containing preparations like copper sulfate, which should be sprayed on the plant in early spring.
So that the apple tree does not receive sunburn, in the fall, take care of whitewashing the trunk and skeletal branches.
What to do if the apple tree bears fruit in a year(video)
To avoid problems with flowering and fruiting, do not leave the apple tree unattended, take into account the characteristics of the variety when planting, protect the plant from wind and pests, and prevent burns. Then the tree will certainly thank you with a tasty and high-quality harvest.
Every gardener dreams of a healthy garden, productive trees. And what if the apple tree has not been bearing fruit since planting for more than seven years? Such problems often happen with an apple tree. Not only do you have to wait a long time for the harvest, but after the allotted time, the tree pleases only with its beautiful foliage and healthy appearance.
Research into the causes of infertility
First of all, when purchasing a seedling, you should ask what year the tree will enter adulthood. There are early-growing varieties that begin to bear fruit in the fourth year, and there are late varieties that bloom in the eighth spring after planting, live up to 60 years. If such a long-liver has fallen, you will have to be patient and wait for the fruits.
In other cases, you should take a closer look at why the apple tree does not bear fruit, and gradually remove the causes of infertility:
- improper tree planting;
- crown formation does not meet the rules;
- care does not meet the requirements of agricultural technology;
- non-zoned variety with all the consequences.
Each of these directions can lead to a sad result.
Proper planting of apple trees
You need to purchase seedlings only in specialized farms. At the same time, the probability of buying a quality seedling of a zoned variety is high.
You need to buy a seedling carefully. It is good to inspect the seedling, it should be with a straight trunk and a developed root system. The site of the scion must be clearly visible. You should ask the seller about the characteristics of the variety or find out the name in order to look at the biology in the catalog. Proper planting of an apple tree is the key to a future harvest.
The landing pit is prepared in a month. The apple tree loves a lighted space with low groundwater. There should be enough nutrition in the dressing soil. A pit measuring 100x100x70 cm is filled with a third of fertile soil with the addition of several buckets of humus, superphosphate and a glass and half of this dose of potassium sulfide. The lower part is thoroughly mixed. 
A tree planted incorrectly will not bear fruit. Therefore, it is important to plant a tree in a hole where the earth has already settled, and the trunk will not sink down, the root collar will not be washed when watering.
A layer of nutrient soil without fertilizer is added to the prepared soil and a hole is poured so that the soil is compacted. On this fertile pillow are placed root system seedlings and sprinkle on top so as not to deepen the neck. Deepening is the reason for the delay in fruiting. At the same time, you need to put a peg and tie a seedling for two years. Trampling and watering the seedling, create its touch with fertile layer soil.
How to shape the crown of an apple tree
Pruning and shaping begin from the fourth year. Techniques for forming the crown of an apple tree can be viewed in the video tutorial on the website. When pruning young apple trees, it is considered correct to restrain the growth of the tree in height, to prevent the growth of branches inside the crown, so as not to thicken the tree. In addition, it is necessary to pay attention to fruit twigs, remove tops, annual shoots that thicken the crown. But when pruning and harvesting, you need to carefully treat the short branches of the fruit, on which flower buds form in spring. When pruning, you need to know that with the hard removal of several skeletal branches, the tree will begin to recover and the yield will be minimal.
If all the branches of the apple tree are pointing up, there will be no pods. It is necessary to make a gradual formation with a horizontal deviation of the branch. A load is attached to a vertical branch to gradually deflect it. Another way would be to bend down the trunk with a rope.
In autumn, when the tree has shed its leaves, a sparrow can fly through the branches in all directions. This means that the apple tree is properly formed.
If the apple tree sheds color, there may not be a single apple tree nearby, the flowers have not been pollinated. Flowers are open for a short period of time, do not have time to pollinate, the variety is not zoned. The flowers are deformed, do not fully open, fall off - the work of the larva of the weevil beetle, flower beetle. The apple tree may lack nutrition and, and it drops the ovaries.
A cardinal technique for starting fruiting can be pruning apple trees in the area of \u200b\u200bthe root system. At good nutrition Yes, with the predominance of nitrogenous fertilizers, the roots ensure the growth of the tree to the detriment of fruit formation. Therefore, it is necessary to reduce or exclude nitrogen in dressings, and cut the roots at a distance of the crown projection to the ground. Having received stress, the apple tree will remember that it is necessary to take care of the continuation of the family and will throw out fruit twigs, called fruits.
You can feed the apple tree with iron old nails, or buy special drug containing iron salts in an assimilable form. If after all the activities healthy tree does not bear fruit, which means that it will have to be replaced, there are individual specimens of barren trees.
Diseases of apple trees leading to infertility
All the activities that try to awaken the tree to fruiting will not help the sick specimen. If a tree suffers from fungal, bacterial diseases for several years and no treatment is carried out, it weakens. Strength is spent on fighting the disease, and the formation of fruits becomes secondary when everyone is focused on survival. At first, the yield of a diseased tree decreases, and then the apple tree stops even blooming. If you skip and start their treatment late, you can be left without apples.
When purchasing a variety, you should ask if fruiting occurs every year. There are apple trees that give a big harvest in a year. In any case, you should take care of your fruit tree and regulate the number of apples on the branches. With a plentiful harvest, the apple tree depletes its strength, and its immune system cannot cope in extreme conditions. In this case, the tree is more threatened by winter freezing and spring burns. Only full compliance with all measures aimed at maintaining a healthy garden will give a positive result.
How to make an apple tree bear fruit - video
Why is the apple tree not blooming? why isn't it blooming? What to do if the apple tree did not bloom in the spring: the degree of damage to the apple trees.
What a shame when in the spring the apple tree stands with unopened buds or, having let out a couple of leaves, dries up ....
Apple trees did not bloom: what is the reason
Fruit trees are most affected by low temperatures in winter period(up to 35 - 40 degrees below zero), which persists for long period, abrupt changes in temperature, when a thaw is replaced by an unexpected cooling. In this case, the bark, the wood of the apple tree trunk can be damaged, flower buds are especially affected. The possibility of death of annual shoots depends on the maturation of their wood.
Growths with developed apical buds are less damaged. Shoots may not ripen well due to high humidity and excess nitrogen in the soil.
In addition, during a drought, possibly in May, small apple trees may finish growing too early. If it starts to rain in July and August, the shoots may start growing again, they do not have time to mature before frost and may die in winter. Damaged annual shoots are pruned in spring, cut to healthy wood.
The apple tree has not blossomed: how to determine the extent of the problem
The level of damage to the wood of mature trees is determined by its color - weak freezing - light yellow, significant damage - dark brown. If the wood is severely damaged, then the branches and trunk become brittle and a soot-like coating can be seen on the bark. The resistance of affected trees to low temperatures is reduced, and when adverse conditions diseased apple trees may die.
The development of the tree is also negatively affected by bark injuries. Ripening by the end of the season occurs from the periphery of the crown and continues to the trunk. For this reason, in the areas where the branches are connected, and in the trunk zone, the resistance of tissues to low temperatures is always worse. In these places, the bark freezes first. In early spring, the bark can be damaged by the bright rays of the sun, causing burns to it, which arise from the uneven heating of the bark and sudden changes in daily temperatures.
Injured bark of reddish or Brown after a while it will begin to die off. After a summer or autumn drought, next spring the trees are more damaged by burns. To reduce the risk of their appearance on the bark, trees are whitewashed in autumn period. Freshly slaked lime is suitable for this (in the proportion of 2 kg of lime per bucket of water), with the addition of 1 kg of mullein or clay to the solution.
In mature trees, after severe frost damage, flowers do not appear from buds in spring. If the plant has not suffered much, then flowers may appear, sometimes even ovaries grow, but their bulk will quickly fall off. To protect trees from winter damage, they need to be well looked after - protect the bases of skeletal branches and stems with snow, shale forms are completely covered with snow, fight diseases and pests, cut the crown in time, fertilize plants and water.
In the spring, the apple tree did not bloom: what can be done
AT winter time mainly damaged stlanets and standard trees. Low-cut stlanets, the crown of which can hide under the snow, do not suffer from frost even in cold winters. Pruning of damaged adults: trees are transferred to the first decade of summer, after their regrowth area has formed. Injured branches are cut off near the place of formation of new shoots.
Trees on which leaves grow only at the ends of branches, and the buds located below have died, must be well fed so that new shoots can form from sleeping buds. For faster recovery of the affected trees, they must be cut in the spring in areas of vigorous growth of new shoots.With significant damage to the crown of the tree, and the appearance of new shoots only near the trunk, the tree can be restored only from the cultural shoots growing over the grafting site. The injured crown is cut off “on the stump”, and a new one is created from the shoots that have appeared using pruning. Each of the shoots must be oriented vertically, forming a conductor from it, new growths accelerate the tightening of a large wound that appeared when pruning a shrunken crown.
If the tree has died completely, and the shoots grow directly from the rootstock, then it is necessary to vaccinate suitable variety apple trees, and on the old roots will grow a new tree. The most developed shoot is chosen, the rest are cut out or simply shortened to allow the left game to develop well and feed the roots. Apple varieties zoned in the area develop faster and five years after grafting, they are able to bring a small harvest of apples. With significant damage to the trees with the need to trim ½ and a larger share of the crown, you can not try to restore them, but plant another apple tree. If a main reason the death of a plant is an unsuitable place for planting (a low area where cold air collects), then it makes no sense to restore it or plant a new tree.
Frost protection for apple trees
A strong drop in temperature during the flowering of an apple tree can not only significantly reduce the yield, but can also completely destroy it. Temperatures dropping to 2 degrees below zero are disastrous for blooming inflorescences. If you have a cold region, it is better to use.
Heavily frostbitten flowers and ovaries quickly fall off, and from not severely damaged, clumsy fruits grow. If the decrease in temperature is short-lived, with a decrease in temperature to 1.0-1.5 degrees below zero, then standard trees may not suffer. They only have a natural removal of excess colors, which will not reduce total harvest. The most dangerous thing for an apple tree is recurrent cold, at which the temperature drops greatly, and this is accompanied by strong gusts of wind, and all flowers can die.
To protect against frost, you can use smoke cones or smoke with a fire in calm weather. At strong wind the effectiveness of the use of smoke is greatly reduced.
The apple tree blossomed, but there will be no apples again, gardeners lament - and they buy new seedlings of the apple tree, and when planting and caring for apple trees, they make the same mistakes as before. Why didn't the apple tree bloom in spring? And if it bloomed, why did all the ovaries fall off? In the Bible orchard"- answers to these and other questions about the fruiting of apple trees, as well as tips on summer pruning apple trees for good harvest next year.
For what reasons can an apple or pear tree refuse to bear fruit, although, due to its age and size, it has long been supposed to be strewn with them? There can be several reasons for refusing to bear fruit - as a rule, they consist in mistakes when planting an apple tree and caring for it.
With the predominance of nitrogen fertilizer in the soil, trees like to "prolong their childhood" for several years - they grow and grow without laying fruit buds. Apple and pear trees have this property: very large and long-growing shoots in summer do not form flower buds, because they have the intention to continue rapid growth again next year. This is called tree fat in fruit growing.
Fattening can cause many years of delay in fruiting. Such trees are recognizable by the many long growths, and there are still few short lateral fruit branches on them.
It must be clarified that fattening is not caused by a general enumeration of fertilizers, as is sometimes mistakenly believed, but by a strong preponderance of the share of nitrogen, for example, when a garden is fertilized with urea or fresh manure alone. On the contrary, compost and rotten manure usually do not cause fat.
Everyone needs nitrogen fruit plants- you just need to pull up phosphorus and potassium to it. The easiest way is to scatter ashes under the trees. And in order to stop fattening, you should not completely stop fertilizing, but apply phosphorus and potash fertilizers.
This is very common cause refusal of trees of all cultures from fruiting. If in the south the trees on the north side of the house bear fruit, then in the Middle lane this factor is critical, here the sun is “not right”. And if, because of the barn, a tree can still stick out its crown to the sun, then behind the back of a 2-story house it has no chance.
Especially if there are several planted in a row fruit trees, so they further obscure each other. Trees are elongated and "transparent", i.e. sparse, crowns.
When looking for a reason why a tree does not bear fruit, they first of all look at whether it blooms in spring or not. If almost does not bloom, then it is most likely in the shade. That is, the tree only has enough strength to grow, it does not even lay flower buds on the eve of the summer, since the shadow does not allow.
Correcting the situation in this case is difficult. You can try to tilt the crown of a valuable variety to the side solar space, if any. At the same time, for the sake of it, to eliminate other shading trees growing in the same place behind the house, so that at least the morning, eastern sun illuminates its crown.
Extermination of all apple flowers by pests
On some "tasty" varieties this happens. There are varieties of apple trees or other fruit trees that, for some reason, especially attract flower beetles and other pests, so that they destroy 100% of the flowers. Such trees bear fruit very rarely, once every few years, when, according to natural laws, the number of the pest is reduced to a minimum.
This reason is quite easy to identify and solve. Consider carefully the flowers during flowering: are they entangled in cobwebs, are their petals massively damaged.
Environmentally friendly protective measures are known for every malicious pest, in this case this is spraying with vegetable infusions and dusting flowers with ash. There are many other means as well.
To control a couple of branches with unblown buds, carefully spray from a spray can with ordinary dichlorvos to protect against cockroaches from a long distance. This will show you the effectiveness of the means used: if the fruits are only on the branch treated with "chemistry", then your means do not work.
Deep planting of apple trees
If in the south of our country there are methods of deepening seedlings during planting, then with our excessive moisture, this is simply unacceptable. Several times I have seen visitors from Central Asia authoritatively urged our summer residents to plant bushes and trees deep. Masters found! An ostrich teaches penguins how to survive in the ice...
Often, the summer resident, and not wanting it himself, plants in such a way that his seedlings, after watering, are pulled into a loose planting pit.
In conditions Middle lane it is necessary to plant all trees only on some elevation, at least 10–20 cm high, so that the root collar is higher general level soil. The vagaries of nature will not keep you waiting: once every 10-15 years, or even more often, there is a strong wetting of plants due to prolonged autumn precipitation, and your trees will be safe.
If all of the above reasons are not relevant in your case, you can try to "persuade" the tree to give a harvest next year.
For the gardens of the Middle Strip, there is a stimulating method of pruning apple trees: we shorten all the growths left on the tree after breaking out large green shoots in an unripe state (in late July - early August) by about 2/3, i.e. more than half.
In the southern regions, such a technique would contribute to thickening of the crowns and in no way to fruiting, as it would cause branching of the left stumps and the growth of new, equally long shoots. In the Middle lane, on the majority of "stumps" the effect will be achieved: they will have more active fruit buds that give flowers.
Summer pruning of annual growths does not harm the tree in winter, since the shoot has enough time to heal the wound. The main thing is not to cut them in the fall.
A variant of such pruning, even more detailed, was developed by M. Shalaevsky. He tested it for many years on different varieties of apple trees, including old ones, and everywhere he got larger yields. He shortened all growths strictly to 2–4 buds: he cut off all thin and short (weak) growths above the 4th kidney, and thick (strong) growths - above the 2nd.
But there are exceptions to every rule. So for this type of pruning: in some varieties of apple trees, the fruits tend to be tied precisely on the upper part of the shoots, so it is not recommended for them to cut the growths so massively.
The way out is to select the key to each tree in each individual case, to empirically look for what it responds best to. For example, on one crown, you can test several pruning techniques on different skeletal branches at once in one season.
Comment on the article "Why does the apple tree not bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning the apple tree in summer"
Why doesn't the apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in the summer. Apple trees do not bloom this year, I have 10 of them in total, there were harvests for 10 years in a row, last year they were just crazy. Not a single flower on any of them this year.
reduce the height of the apple tree. there is a mature apple tree, old good grade with such a minus - a huge height. apple trees. And how to reduce the growth of apple trees? This is very important for me ... As I understand it, cutting down the trunk and not leaving branches is dangerous, since it weakens the tree and it ...
And when do apple trees begin to bear fruit not individually, but in kilograms? I thought that I had a defective seedling, but I read below, I decided it was better to wait to cut it down) And how many apple trees do you have on the site (we have a lot of space, the question is a reasonable number of trees.
Why doesn't the apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in the summer. And if it bloomed, why did all the ovaries fall off? And why then, against the background of this, that year, on the huge trunk of an apple tree, all the leaves abruptly dried up and I had to cut it down.
How to "raise" an apple tree? One apple tree was planted unsuccessfully - due to a poorly prepared planting hole, the land around it settled and the apple tree ended up in I bought apple trees: Melba, White filling and Antonovka. The first two with vaccinations, and Antonovka both trees without, is it supposed to be like that?
My experience has shown that two-year-olds are best. One-year-olds are still small, recently planted, it takes them a long time to grow, for three-year-olds the containers are often too small, so they slow down in growth and then adapt longer. And the two-year-olds just started to bear fruit next year.
Tell us what you have and how it tastes, we prefer sweet apples. Suggest your varieties How deep to dig holes? We both have apple trees. Their branches were thrown to us, during the season there were 20 padans from our side. As they noticed that we are trying their apples, and I ...
The apple tree never blossomed, it stood naked all summer. This year is the same story. Well, I think everything is dead, we must dig it out! Why doesn't the apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in the summer. The apple tree doesn't want to bloom!
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Why doesn't the apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in the summer. Section: Our garden (is it possible to plant apple trees next to a birch). I looked on the website of the Timiryazev Academy, where you can buy a 3-year-old apple tree for 800 rubles.
How to plant apple trees. ... I find it difficult to choose a section. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and country plots: purchase, improvement, planting Girls, tell me how to plant a 3-year-old apple tree. I am a complete layman in this matter. What to fill in a hole, what to spill and at what distance from ...
4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in the summer. Is it possible to prune trees now, or is it too late, since How to properly prune and in what cases can it be avoided? Summer apple trees begin to bear fruit earlier, autumn and winter later. Damn, I have been sitting for 4 years and, well, nothing ...
Why doesn't the apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in the summer. Grafting of cuttings on an apple tree - wild (spring 2010). 4 reasons - and pruning the apple tree in the summer. "Girls, help recognize the disease of the apple tree, please. The plot was bought that summer and all the apple trees are infected, not ...
How to "raise" an apple tree? One apple tree was unsuccessfully planted - because of a poorly prepared planting pit, the earth around it settled and the apple tree looked on the Internet, to be honest, like everything else) Mom looked at something in her old literature, everything ...
4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in the summer. Pruning apple trees in summer. The apple tree blossomed, but there will be no apples again, gardeners lament - and they buy new seedlings of the apple tree, and when planting and caring for apple trees, they make the same mistakes as before.
It gives rejuvenation to the apple tree, plus fertilizer, and they will delight you for another 30 years. Cut at the beginning of March, pinch in the summer and everything will be fine. And don’t plant dwarfs - these are short-lived apple trees - problems from Why does the apple tree not bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in the summer.
To speed up the process, it is enough to root the stalk from the "seed" paska. And about the differences - for the first time I hear, WHY? and where on " historical homeland"Are there differences in passionflower? Fruiting depends on the conditions. It is quite real - my karulea has been fruiting.
