Fastening the grooved board to the lags with self-tapping screws. Grooved board - a long-term investment in the comfort of your home

Decor elements 29.08.2019

Decor elements

The floor plays a decisive role in creating the interior. The floor made of wood, especially oak, has always been very popular. To make the floors look more attractive and spectacular, it is necessary not only to choose high-quality materials, but also to properly lay the floorboards. At first glance, this is easy to do, but laying the floorboard has nuances.

Floor grooved board - dimensions and design

The most commonly used wood for the manufacture of floorboards coniferous trees: pine, larch, spruce or cedar. Elite is the material of ash, beech and oak. Oak has a very beautiful, unique texture, while over time the color of the wood becomes brighter and more saturated. However, oak wood, like other first-class varieties, complicates the installation of the floorboard due to its increased density, but if it is laid according to the rules, the result will exceed expectations in terms of beauty and durability.

The technical parameters mean the dimensions of the slats:

Length (3, 4, 4.5, 6 m).
Thickness (28, 30, 32, 35, 40 mm). This characteristic is taken into account depending on the distance at which they will be laid. If the gap between them is more than 70 cm, then we lay thicker boards.
Width (80-135 mm). The most commonly used strips, the width of which is 100-105 mm. When choosing them, you should take into account the size of the room and its design. Too wide or, conversely, a narrow board can spoil the overall impression of the room.

The floorboard, like any finishing floor covering, has features in operation. Among the positive aspects, the following should be noted:

Naturalness and environmental friendliness;
The ability to endure heavy loads (this is especially true for oak floors);
Durability - depends on the type of wood;
High level of sound and heat insulation;
Anti-allergic properties;
Resistance to various kinds of deformations;
Moderate cost.

Among the disadvantages are:

Labor-intensive care;
Rotting;
Easy flammability;
Predisposition to abrasion;
Change in volumes in the summer and winter seasons, which can lead to the appearance of gaps.

At proper care and operation, wooden floors will remain in good condition for a long time and will please the eye.

How to choose?

If you decide to lay floorboards, you must approach their choice with all responsibility. The main thing is to follow certain rules here.

It is necessary to determine for what purpose you are buying boards. If the manufacture of a subfloor is required, then a material without traces of decay and deformation is suitable. For a fine finish, you need absolutely even and smooth products.
Wood must be of proper, high quality. It is necessary to pay attention to the presence of cracks, knots and the method of cutting.
It is important to consider the dimensions of the board. Here you need to imagine what loads the floor will experience. The minimum thickness for residential premises is 25 mm.
The moisture content of the material should be no more than 8%.
Before laying, the tree must lie indoors for seven days.
When fitting and docking the slats should not be difficult.

More about the nuances of choice in the video:

The right choice finishing material- a guarantee of high-quality and durable coating.

Installation of floor boards

Laying the floorboard is carried out in two ways:

On the logs;
For glue.

Floor cake when installing floorboards on logs

The first option is classic. It is recommended in cases where the house has high ceilings or interfloor ceilings made of wood. So, we lay the floorboards on the logs.

Mounting floorboards on glue is in many ways similar to. The only difference is that the bar is additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. Before laying the floorboards, the base is waterproofed and moisture-resistant plywood is laid.

Adhesive method mounting

How to choose glue? The main thing is that the glue is plastic and durable. Epoxy, dispersed or polyurethane compounds are suitable for fixing boards no longer than 50 cm.

For boards made of exotic wood, dispersion adhesive is not suitable.

For planks longer than 50 cm, experts advise using an adhesive containing synthetic resins (two-component epoxy-polyurethane, one-component polyurethane).

Floorboard base types

The installation method largely depends on the type of base:

On an old wooden floor;
On the concrete floor(on plywood or logs).

If the house had a wooden floor and it is still strong enough to withstand heavy loads, a floorboard can be laid on it. First of all, the existing floor goes through rough. Then the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust, and a waterproofing layer is laid. After that we lay the boards. Relative to the old planks, they should be either perpendicular or diagonal.

When mounting on concrete, it is required to create a certain microclimate in the room:

Humidity screed - 12%;
Temperature - +17 +25 ° C;
Air humidity - no more than 60%.

At the first stage, waterproofing is laid on the leveled surface. Here you can use polyethylene film, roofing material or cover the floor with soil mastic. After that, logs or are installed, and then floorboards.

When arranging floors in houses under construction, as well as, if desired or necessary, to replace an existing and used floor covering for a new one, many opt for laying a tongue-and-groove floor.

The secret is simple - batten made of wood has a set of excellent performance:

durability,
environmental friendliness,
strength.

Only wood materials form a unique microclimate in your own home, conducive to healing human body.

Laying a floorboard can cause some difficulties. But, if everything is done strictly following the instructions technological process, the job will be done successfully, and the tongue and groove floor will last a very long time.

Bases mounted under the floor board

The tongue-and-groove board keeps within on any covering. These can serve as:

Insulation and waterproofing of floorboards

Warming is usually done if the room is located on the ground floor, and there is no heated room under it. ground floor. As a thermal insulation laid between the lags, fiberglass or basalt wool is usually used.

Important! In addition to the fact that the insulation is laid on both sides with vapor-tight waterproofing, it is necessary to leave a 5-centimeter gap between it and the bottom surface of the floor for ventilation and removal of excess moisture.

The choice of wood species for future flooring is determined both by the aesthetic needs of the owner and his material capabilities.

One of the most valuable, both literally and figuratively, is the floor made of grooved boards of Siberian larch or oak. The strength and, accordingly, the durability of these wood species are very high. The floor made of spruce, pine, alder, aspen, fir wood is softer, and, accordingly, its service life is short.

When choosing the grade of the flooring material, it is necessary to take into account what final finishing will be carried out. If the floor is supposed to be painted, then there is no need to take the material of the highest or first grade. And in the case of varnishing, it will be useful. The lacquer will emphasize its beautiful textural pattern, unencumbered by the vices inherent in lower grades.

Larch floorboards are produced tongue-and-groove, i.e. on one side it has a protrusion (thorn), and in the other side surface a groove is cut out by a cutter - a recess (groove). During installation, the spike of one board enters the groove of the adjacent one. This results in a smooth, level floor.

Advice! The direction of laying the floorboards must be chosen parallel to the light flux from the windows. In the corridors, it is better to lay them in the direction of movement.

Do not forget about the gap between the coating and the walls of 10-20 mm, which closes perfectly floor plinth.

Do-it-yourself tongue-and-groove flooring

For reliable sealing of the boards, we place the first of them with a spike against the wall.
We combine the next by connecting the groove and the spike with the previous one.
Fastening is best done with self-tapping screws (because the nails rust), usually with a six or seven. Let's consider two ways:

the screw is screwed inside the groove at an angle of 45⁰. Sometimes dry material may crack. In this case, the attachment point must be drilled with a drill of the same diameter as the self-tapping screw;
in the second case, we screw the self-tapping screw from above, deepening it a little, in order to putty later.

If necessary, we saw the edge board along the length in order to obtain the desired width, taking into account the gap between it and the wall. The tongue-and-groove board is fastened in any convenient way, because. the attachment point will be covered with a plinth.
Having completed the laying, the tongue-and-groove floorboard is sanded and then varnished or painted at the request of the owners.

The tongue-and-groove board is used, as a rule, for fine finishing of a floor. It is made from solid pine or spruce. A tongue is provided on one edge of the tongue-and-groove board, and a groove for it on the other. This greatly simplifies the installation of the material. Mounted by connecting the groove and tongue boards form a single solid surface. After laying, the floor surface is processed (polished and varnished) to acquire an attractive appearance and extend the service life.

Exist various sizes tongue-and-groove board for ease of installation. You can find mounting units from 2 to 6 meters in length, from 9.6 to 15 cm in width and thickness in the range of 2.5-4 cm. After production, the boards are dried to 10-15% moisture and hermetically packed. Thanks to this, you can immediately begin its installation without prior preparation.

Mounting order

Laying of material is carried out in a certain order. It is necessary to keep it indoors from 3 to 14 days after delivery, so that the humidity in the room and the moisture content of the wood are equalized. The length of the holding period depends on the season of execution repair work. After a few days, you can remove the packaging film and, if necessary, cut the material to length.

After cutting, the board must be laid on logs covered with insulation or film. In this position, the material is left for a few more days for acclimatization. Only then can the material be laid.

It is not recommended to use glue or any other synthetic substances during installation. To fix the board, self-tapping screws are used, with which the floor covering is screwed to each log. The distance between the lags should not exceed 59 cm.

The first mounting unit is positioned with the tongue-and-groove side against the wall.

A small gap is left between them, 1-2 cm. The floor will be ventilated through this gap. In addition, if over time the floor moisture increases and the board expands, this gap will prevent the floor surface from deforming. Boards should not be concave. This should be checked before starting work.

To fix on the logs, it is best to use wood screws 5.5-6 cm long. They need to be screwed into the groove at an angle. First you need to drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 2.5 or 3 mm. Thanks to the hole, when screwing in, the groove will not crack. Drills for this work, due to their small thickness, break quickly enough, so it is recommended to stock them up for future use.

The second board is attached to the first. It is unlikely that it will be possible to ideally fit them under each other with the help of a mallet, so do not be overly zealous with it. For the best result, you can use a wooden wedge, which must be driven through the entire board, while screwing in the self-tapping screw.

The fastest and convenient way is the use of a car jack. But in this case, it is necessary to provide for the protection of the material from damage. For this purpose, small boards are used, which must be rested against the following mounting elements. When using a jack, the use of a mallet is not required.

Thus, the installation of a tongue-and-groove floor is quite simple. You can do the installation of flooring elements yourself. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material.

The classic flooring material is wooden plank. This product is not only unique decorative look but also quality specifications.

Today, tongue-and-groove boards are increasingly being used, which make it possible to obtain a strong connection of adjacent elements. You can find out in detail what a tongue and groove is on specialized sites where everything is written technical specifications such elements.

Decide on the type of base

The sheet piling can be installed on different materials among which the most popular are:

Wooden logs. Such structures can be attached to almost all types of bases from ordinary concrete to plywood.
Concrete. Please note that the base should not have significant differences. This will securely fix the board and will not lead to a curvature of the surface.
Waterproof plywood. This material can act both as the main base and as a substrate.
Old wooden floors. Surfaces of this kind must be checked for strength and quality before direct laying.

Algorithm for mounting tongues on logs

The process of laying tongue-and-groove boards can be divided into several successive stages:

First of all, the first row is fixed. To do this, the board is laid along the wall. It is advisable to select them in such a way that the length of the tree corresponds to the size of one of the sides of the room. It is advisable to leave a small gap of 15 mm between the wall and the board. Please note that the first row is located with a spike inward. The board is fastened directly to the joists using a nail or self-tapping screw.
At this stage, all other elements are fixed. To do this, the boards are sequentially joined to the already attached layer. In this case, the spike and groove are inserted into each other and tightly compressed. To do this, you can use a mallet and special ties that will allow you to hold the board tightly to each other during fixation.
The installation of the last element is carried out according to the same algorithm. Only spacer blades are already driven in between the board and the wall. If the material is not included in size, then you need to cut it along with circular saw. A small gap must also be left between the wall and the last board.

Installation of sheet pile boards is not difficult and requires only care and adherence to technology.

AT modern renovation, wooden floors are made mainly from grooved boards. This allows you to avoid many of the shortcomings such as creaking, cracks, drops, etc., inherent in floors made of ordinary boards. If you also decide to make a floor from a grooved board, then in our article you can find out how to choose a grooved board, how to install it and how to repair floors from this material.

For right choice tongue-and-groove boards, you need to know about the features, classification, manufacturing method and categories of boards.

Manufacturing

The tongue-and-groove board is made of a tree of coniferous and deciduous breeds. Cutting boards is made from the core of the logs, after which they are dried to 8-10% moisture content. After drying, the boards are cut to size, processed on a thicknessing machine and with the help of a cutter, a tenon-groove connection is made along their edges. Boards have dimensions: width from 80 to 200 mm, thickness from 15 to 22 mm, length from 600 to 6000 mm. The tenon-groove connection can be either on two or four sides, this criterion mainly depends on the length of the board. On sale, there are also boards with other parameters. At the end of the manufacturing process, the boards are treated with antiseptics.

Advantages

The tongue-and-groove board has a number of advantages, in comparison with a usual edged board:

Features of choice

When choosing boards for the floor, consider the load factor on the floor. For floors with a heavy load, buy a tongue-and-groove board made of hardwood: oak, alder, mahogany, birch. If a small load is expected on the floor, then it is quite possible to get by with cheaper ones. conifers: pine, cedar, spruce.

When making a purchase, be sure to pay attention to appearance boards. If there are white or dark spots on the surface, then this may be a symptom of wood infection with a fungus or mold. Also carefully inspect the boards for the presence of insects living in the wood.

Not all sellers of boards comply with the storage conditions for lumber. For this reason, the boards you bought may be wet. To save yourself from an unsuccessful purchase, check the moisture content of the wood. This can be done using a moisture meter or folk methods:

When buying a grooved board, ask the seller to show you a certificate of conformity.

Grooved board installation

The manufacture of floors from grooved boards is best done upon completion of all finishing work. The temperature in the room where the boards are being installed should not be less than five degrees Celsius. Humidity should be no more than 30-20%.

As mentioned above, the material from which the tongue and groove board is made is selected depending on the expected load on the floor surface. With a strong load on the surface, hardwood boards are used. In rooms with low traffic, softwood boards will suffice.

The quality of the boards and, accordingly, the category, choose based on financial capabilities and options finishing gender. If you want to cover the floor with a transparent varnish, then buy a grooved board of the highest category or category A. For a floor to be painted, category B boards are suitable. If the floor is made as a base for another coating, then category C boards will fit for its manufacture.

Installation lag

The lag is installed on concrete base or on beam ceilings. For the installation of logs and boards you will need:

Bars with a section of 50x100 millimeters.
Staples or connecting plates.
Wood screws or nails.
Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
A hammer.
Screwdriver or screwdriver.
Yardstick.
Pencil.
Square.
Level.

The logs are laid on the base, perpendicular to the position of the boards.

Installation of boards

Please note that before laying, the boards must “acclimatize” by lying in the room where the installation will be carried out for at least two days.

How to install grooved boards, you can also see in the video:

Floor finishing

The final finishing of the floor, it is better to produce after the completion of all repairs. Otherwise, there is a risk of damaging the decorative coating layer.
For finishing you will need:

Putty knife.
Vibratory and belt grinders.
Sandpaper.
Putty.
A set of brushes or a spray gun.
Solvent.
Stain.
Lacquer on water or acrylic base. If the floor is going to be painted, then paint.
A vacuum cleaner.
Mop bucket and rag.

Detailed instructions for applying varnish on a wooden floor are in the video:

Now it has become fashionable, instead of varnish, to use for floor treatment special oil. There is a reason for using oil, especially for rooms with high traffic, because oil is absolutely resistant to abrasion, unlike varnish. In addition, the oil perfectly emphasizes the texture of the wood, giving it a soft and warm color.
It is much easier to cover the floor with oil than with varnish, since the oil does not require sanding each layer. The oil is applied to the tree, both cold and hot. Mostly cold application with a brush is used. The number of coats applied depends on the absorbency of the wood, usually two stains are sufficient.

When painting the floor with oil, keep an eye on it. uniform distribution on the surface and remove smudges in a timely manner. After the oil has dried, the surface of the floor can be treated with wax.

Please note that violation of the order of work and non-observance of instructions when using paintwork materials, can lead to rapid wear of the coating, and in the worst case, to the need for a new floor finish!

You can also learn how to oil a wooden floor by watching the video:

Floor restoration and repair

During the operation of a grooved board floor, certain problems may arise caused by poor quality materials or a violation of the installation technology. Let's look at common breakdowns and how to fix them:

gaps between boards- occur due to high content moisture in the boards during their installation. After the final drying of the laid boards, the wood shrinks, as a result of which cracks form. Most effective way elimination of this problem is the dismantling of the boards and their new styling on the lags. If the gaps are not large, you can cover them with putty.

floor creak- a very common problem that occurs due to the friction of the lag and boards against each other. Most often, the floors begin to creak due to a violation of the laying technology. Perhaps the lags were located too far long distance, so the boards began to sag when walking and creak. Another reason may be the weak fastening of the boards to the joists. You can try to eliminate the cause of the creak by screwing in additional screws, if this does not help, you will have to sort out the floor again.

cracking boards– can happen for two reasons. The first is the wrong material for the floor. If the boards are made of soft wood, and the load on the surface is too intense, then over time, the floor will not only crack, but may even completely collapse. You can solve the problem by reducing the load or replacing the boards with more durable ones. The second reason is wet wood. After drying, the tree tends to crack. In this case, it is enough to cover the cracks with putty.

The appearance of resin on the boards- caused by the final drying of the wood. To get rid of the resin, it is enough to remove it with a spatula, sand the place of its appearance and, if the floor is varnished or painted, apply a new layer of coating.

Lacquer peeling- can occur from contact with the surface a large number water or due to varnishing on wet wood. In any case, it is necessary to remove the old coating with a spatula and grinder, let the boards dry and apply new coats of varnish.

Rotting lag and inside boards - happens for a reason high humidity and insufficient air circulation under the floor. The problem will have to be solved by opening the floor, a ventilation device, replacing the logs and rotten boards.