Plywood wyma for gluing furniture boards. How to make do-it-yourself carpentry wedges

Hello. A lot of interesting things on the Internet. Somehow, while doing, as they say now, surfing the web, I found an interesting mechanism - wyma. The owners praised him very much and complained about making or buying.
It so happened that our site is more female. But I somehow grew on it, maybe precisely because of this very property :). But what I want to tell women is unlikely to be interested. And men (here, pause) well, I think maybe someone will come in handy.
So to business. A clamp is needed for gluing wooden shields. After looking different variants I liked two. I decided to put them together. If anyone is interested I will give links to primary sources. I am not going to assign copyrights, but our site decided to highlight this topic.
How many wyms do you need for one shield? I have a single experience of gluing - the front country door. It had to be clamped in three places with wedges. The wedge gives compression only from the sides. Weima still above and below. Maybe somewhere there is information about what should be the step between the vimes. I just decided that to begin with, you need to pinch from the edges and in the middle.
The goals of this event were:
1. How realistic is it to make wima yourself.
2. Test in action, is it really that good.
For this type of wim you need:
a) a rectangular pipe 25 * 50 mm wall thickness 2 mm.
b) pipe for counter non-tight stop 25 * 25 mm
d) metal sheet 2 mm thick
e) 5 bolts d8 mm, 2 bolts d10 mm
f) reinforced nut (or three welded together) d16 mm
g) hairpin d16 mm (I think 14 will do the same).
h) a tube freely entering the hairpin
How many numbers can you say? Everything is conditional here. It all depends on the tasks, that is, for what you want to glue the shields, large or small. I took the maximum under my trunk - so that even in disassembled form this miracle fit. But if you are not going to glue the doors, then the clamps can be made smaller. In general, I cut pipes of 1300 mm. With this spacing, for three pieces you need to buy 2 pipes of 6 meters. At current prices, this is somewhere around 1.5-2 thousand, taking into account cutting. A meter long hairpin was enough for me. Nut bolts in Leroy probably cost about 1000 rubles. As for the rest of the materials, I took them from the waste at work. If you wish, you can think of and replace with what you have at home or in the garage. Here the skill of the welder and the flight of fancy probably play a role.
The fact that I used waste at work and used working machines made it very easy for me. Don't be afraid, machines are not a sentence . People do everything by grinder and welding and get a serviceable tool. I have a negative moment, I do not know how to cook yet. I had to ask at work to make welded joints.
I bought the materials, but put it off for a long time, not everything was clear how it works. Yes, and there are no drawings as such. In general, waving his hand, I decided to do it by eye according to the primary sources.
Decisive moment with pipes, holes in them need to be made on drilling machine(so they write everywhere) since the holes should not be skewed and in paired pipes the axes of the holes should match along the entire length. I think someone who does not have a machine either at work or at home can buy a tool for a drill. In addition, the holes should not be located in the center of the pipe, but closer to the edge - this is a reference to the strength of the material, we increase the working section of the beam.
Next, what's next? The rest is relatively simple.
I had it. Started with pipes. Stepped back from the edge of 15 mm, drew a line through 150 mm markings along the pipe. I marked the pipes in pairs to match the holes.


Here in the picture it is a little different from what I ended up with - I flew *. Below I want to do a debriefing. In the meantime, the markup should be something like this.

I have a tube 60 mm long and a plate 60 * 25 * 2 mm.

It was decided to make the twisting handle with long handles. The handle itself was supposed to be made of plywood. And adhesion to plywood through a cross cut or sawn from metal 2 mm welded to the end of the stud.

Yes, I just cut my meter-long hairpin into three equal pieces, first.

The most incomprehensible for me was the mechanism at the opposite end of the hairpin from the cross with the ball from the bearing.


The front tip differs from the back tip in that it is swivel. When the pin rotates, it must remain stationary and not run away from the pin. The first noticeable difference is that instead of a square pipe, it is round. We will weld a nail into the slot to hold the tip on the hairpin.


I have this ball

On the hairpin, you need to make a groove for the locking nail. The authors of my primary sources, which I was guided by, made grooves with a grinder. They turned me on the machine.

The figure shows the main mechanism of the entire system. Two d10 bolts are welded to the power nut, a stud is screwed into it. On the far left is the profile of a cross. Right swivel head. It works like this. The nail holds the tip, the tube allows it not to fidget and rotate on the pin, the ball takes the load from the clamped shield and the pin and prevents it from wedging.
Next, you need to file or chop the plates 8 pcs. for one wim. Dimensions 25*120*2 mm. I did not calculate the minimum working dimensions of the plates, perhaps the plates can be made shorter. Make two holes in the plates.
Before fixing the swivel tip on the stud, by welding to the round tube in the slot of the nail, it is necessary to put on a part of the future handle.


The hole in the handle is made with a groove for the weld.


The handle will be in two halves. I'm still looking for how to adapt and where my dremmel, so I chose a groove for the cross.


lubricate epoxy resin upper part pens. I connect the handles and instead of a press, I screw the handles onto self-tapping screws, which I also sink and fill with epoxy.


Here is the finished mechanism. It remains to paint. With the painting of pipes, I again “cheated” - I painted it with powder at work. My opinion is to paint iron. I did everything slowly sawed pipes in size, they lay for 2 weeks, and began to rust. I did not choose the color in what was painted on that thanks. Only the mechanism was painted from a spray can itself. It's plywood, you can't heat it. I took the color, I think, more or less suitable for the main gray.

Findings:
Generally satisfied. The results will be clear after the tests.
Found errors, do not repeat:
1. The handle is very thick. I glued two pieces of 10 mm thick and got 2 cm thick.
2. It was possible to drill much fewer holes, the handle will not allow you to move the mechanism along the holes, so returning to the footnote - * it would be more correct to do this:


The distance between the holes is 200 mm, or even more. And place the first counter hole at a distance of the minimum width of the shield that you will be gluing.
3. What is inconvenient:


As can be seen from the photo, the nut with welded bolts is wider than the carrier pipe, which obliges you to put washers or wider nuts to align the planes. My nuts gave a thickness more than required - again a little skewed. It is not comfortable.
There is no limit to perfection and I think there is still a lot to be improved. These are my first steps to get started. In the process of creation, we already got wimes on the Internet to order in them, the counter mechanism was different. The advantage of the store is simplicity, the disadvantage is that no vertical force is created at the opposite end. After finalizing the store version (there was just a bar - a dead stop), the idea came to my head to use a hairpin instead of a bar, but my own difficulties arise. Picture below. In general, if you are interested, write;)

Currently, the industry offers clamps or clamps various designs. But they are too large and costly. Therefore, for a home carpentry workshop, you can make a clamp with your own hands.

With the help of a home-made wyma, you can perform gluing furniture panels and other carpentry work.

Making a clamp with your own hands

The basis of the design of a homemade clamp is a strong load-bearing beam. It is made from profile pipe rectangular or square section. Also, the beam can be made from metal profile: corner or brand.

The supporting beam must have high strength and resistance to bending loads. This is necessary so that during operation the clamp structure does not bend or deform.

To compress the furniture board, you need to make a lot of effort. Therefore, if the supporting beams do not have sufficient strength, they will be bent along with the workpiece.

If the furniture board, which will be made on the haym, must be large, then, accordingly, the material for the base must be selected the most durable. In the design of the wyma, all stops and screws are located above the carrier beam. Therefore, the higher the stops and screws are, the stronger the bending loads acting on the entire structure will be. To do this, the clamp must have a very strong base.

During the work of the wyma, a lot of pressure will be exerted on all stops. Therefore, the stops must be designed for a large load. Otherwise, they may bend.

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Materials and tools

• profile pipe of rectangular section;
• screws;
• nuts;
• stops;
• wooden pads;
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• building level;
• squares.

The fastening of the stops to the beam must be strong and be able to move quickly in the longitudinal direction.

The furniture panels to be clamped in the device can be of different widths. In the process of work, it is not always possible to attach workpieces with screws different sizes. Therefore, it is necessary to create the possibility to move the clamps.

All screws must have the required strength. Nuts must be of reinforced construction. They can be purchased at hardware stores. You can order the manufacture of these parts in a turning workshop. It is also necessary to order a turner to make stops for screws of the required dimensions.

If you buy ready-made screws, you will have to make a groove to install and secure the clamps.

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Stages of work

Start making a clamp with your own hands. It is necessary to prepare a profile pipe of rectangular section with dimensions of 60x30x3 mm. The length of the pipe should be 120 cm.

Such dimensions for the carrier beam were chosen due to the fact that sheets often have to be glued large sizes or make wooden doors. Therefore, the clamp must be of such dimensions that it is possible to fix workpieces of such large dimensions in it.

Too large workpieces are rarely performed. In most cases, furniture panels of small sizes and intermediate platforms for stairs will be made. It is necessary to foresee measures in advance so that during the manufacture of the shield, glue does not get on the surface of the device.

In those cases where the length of the wedge does not allow for a large workpiece, it is necessary to glue such a shield in parts. First, workpieces of such a width are glued together that can be clamped in a clamp. Then a wide blank is assembled from narrow shields. For this, movable clamps are used.

Then you need to make screws and nuts. The screw is made of a hexagon 300 mm long with a section of 28 mm. It must have a 2 cm metric thread. The nut is made in the form of a 32 mm hexagon, 60 mm long.

Gaskets 1 cm thick are placed under the nuts. Then welding is performed. After that, a clamp is made from a 5 cm metal rod.

It is undesirable to perform a clamp having a smaller diameter. Otherwise, it will push through the wooden spacers that are placed between the workpiece and the clamp. If you do not use spacers, you can deform the workpiece.

It is necessary to drill a hole of 1 cm in the end of the screw from the side of the clamp. 2 ball bearings are installed in this hole in order to reduce friction.

Then the nuts are welded on. Make sure that the screw is parallel to the profile. Otherwise, the workpiece will be pressed through.

It is necessary to completely tighten the screw with the nut. Then a clamp is put on the groove. After that, gaskets are placed under it.

With the help of the level, make sure that the parts are located strictly parallel. Parts are fixed and then welded.

Welding is performed with small seams, so that when the metal is heated during welding, deformation of the material is prevented.

Then clamps are made from a corner measuring 60x60 mm. Weld the corner to the profile. The profile is welded from two corners. They are adjusted so that there is the possibility of free movement and at the same time that there are no large gaps.

Fasten clamps. To do this, drill holes with a diameter of 12 mm. They put pins in them. Thanks to this, you can quickly change the position of furniture parts during manufacture.

If in the process of work the workpiece turns out during compression, then the reason for this may be the non-perpendicular position of the stop with respect to the carrier beam. Therefore, you need to check correct location details using squares and a building level.

Then a hole is drilled, a thread is made and a screw is screwed. Correct position workpieces can be adjusted with a screw.

When drilling holes, take into account that the screw with a movable stop moves 200 mm. When fixing the fixed stop, the distance between the holes must be 150 mm. Otherwise, there may be areas in which the workpiece does not fit.

First, a through hole is made on the clamp. After that, install it in its place, press it with a clamp. Then, through this hole, the profile of the supporting beam is drilled. In this way, precise bonding of parts can be performed.

You can make a wyma in which you can press the shield to the carrier profile. This design is more reliable, but more difficult to manufacture.

This completes the work on making a homemade clamp.

The design of the clamp allows you to perform high-quality work on gluing furniture boards various sizes and thickness.

This tool has been made Alexey Vagin from Berezniki. As a starting material, a Soviet shelving system was used, which had been lying around in the garage for many years.

It is represented by several long racks, which were placed from floor to ceiling. The thickness of the metal is quite decent - 2 mm. The length of each profile reached 1220 mm. The pitch between the holes was 35 mm.
Stops for shelves were attached to them with hooks, the shelves themselves have not been preserved over the years. In the photo there is an emphasis for shelves with hooks.

In the process of familiarizing with carpentry wisdom, the idea was born to make a wyma from these profiles for gluing furniture panels.

In principle, everything is already ready: take it and use it, with the exception of one moment. There were not holes in the profile along the entire length. From the ends of 330 mm each, these holes were devoid of, which significantly reduced the length of the clamp.
I had to improve. Given the lack of a "grinder", I had to work with my head, and then with a drill. Drilled several holes in a row
and removed the jumpers between them with a washer, on which he hammered.
Not very aesthetically pleasing, but angry, the main thing is that the stops are fixed.

To begin with, for a test, the wedge clamping principle was used, that is, the parts were placed on the frame between the most suitable clamps in terms of distance. And then, with the help of wedges, they pressed against each other and left to dry.

The wedges were moved using a pistol clamp, which turned out to be a fairly convenient way.
Subsequently, it is planned to simplify the clamping process by welding nuts into the holders into which the bolts will be screwed. By tightening the bolts, high-quality pressing will be achieved.

The design in this (wedge) configuration has already been tested. The results were found to be satisfactory.

Wooden fixtures never lose their relevance, do not go out of fashion. They are highly environmentally friendly, natural, almost any piece of furniture is constructed from them. They serve long time and well amenable to restoration. From wood, you can make stools, doors, steps with your own hands. For production, the master needs numerous tools to work with the material. These are carpentry wimes. They are familiar to everyone, but its size is much larger.

Why do we need carpentry clamps

Production wooden products with your own hands - a difficult job that requires high precision performance of work, ability to work with the tool. Do-it-yourself carpentry clamps should not be called a press, as they are not equipped with a mechanism for drying glue. They are a large and powerful clamp.

Joiner's wyms are used for such cases:

• gluing parts that have an unusual shape;
• fixing facing edges;
• assembly of puff and shields, timber;
• construction of frames, furniture frames, chairs;
• facing of relief, flat and three-dimensional surfaces;
• wood splicing;
• assembly of frame products (window, door);
• production of steps, stairs.

Handmade product manufacturing

Making clamps with your own hands is not a difficult task. At the heart of the wyma design is a load-bearing beam with high strength. For this purpose, a profile pipe is used. It has a square or rectangular section. Do-it-yourself do-it-yourself do-it-yourself do-it-yourself do-it-yourself wyms make a metal corner or piece. The latter option allows you to build a high-quality wyma design, but it will turn out to be very heavy.

The main condition for the use of the material is its high strength and load resistance. A do-it-yourself wedge should not be deformed during use. In the manufacture of clamps, you need to pay attention to the strength of the stops, which will experience a high load.

What materials will be required

To build homemade clamp, first you need to collect necessary materials and tools. For work you will need:

• profile pipe, metal corner or channel;
• fasteners: nuts, screws, self-tapping screws;
• stops;
• building level and squares;
• apparatus for metal welding;
• wooden pads.

Do-it-yourself carpentry clamps must be strong and strong, otherwise, with great effort, you can bend or break the structure. To prevent this from happening, the stops must be resistant to heavy loads, well fixed on the beam. It is necessary to make sure that they can easily move in the longitudinal direction. To be able to process large-sized workpieces with your own hands, you need to fix the clamps on the rims so that they can be moved.

Fasteners must also have high strength. It is better to give preference to a reinforced structure and nuts. Due to high load store materials break quickly. In order for do-it-yourself carpentry clamps to turn out to be of high quality and effective, you should order fasteners and stops in a turning workshop.

Work instructions

All work on the production of wyma with your own hands involves several stages:

• Profile pipe preparation. Its length is 1.2 m.
• Assembly of structures on bolts. The elements of the clamp will be convenient to weld together. For assembly on corners, the length of which is 250 cm, a channel is attached at the same distance.
• Edge 1 of the channel and a short corner should be perpendicular to each other, and located between long fragments. Under the nuts, it is necessary to put gaskets, the thickness of which is 1 cm.
• Processing of joints by welding. The internal joint of the short corner and the channel is not processed. If this condition is not met, the seam obtained as a result of welding will create problems when gluing wooden blanks.
• Manufacture of clamps from a metal rod. Its diameter is 5 cm. A 1 cm hole is drilled at the end of the screw. 2 ball bearings are installed inside it to reduce friction.
• Nut welding. The screw must be parallel to the profile. If this rule is not observed, the part will be clamped with punching.
• Making clips from the corner and fixing them. For fixation, holes are drilled in the material, the diameter of which is 1.2 cm. Pins are inserted here to change the position of the workpiece during the manufacture of a wooden product.

Stops are welded to the bottom of the resulting structure, thanks to which it will be stable. During the manufacture of a wyma with your own hands, you need to ensure that all the details are parallel. For this, the building level is used. Welds should be small. In the process of fastening parts, it is important to ensure that the metal does not deform during heating.

Features of manufacturing a simple wyma from self-tapping screws and timber

Sometimes the master needs a large clamp to make one product. This does not require a permanent structure. With your own hands, you can build disposable wyms. To make a tool you will need:

• wooden beam;
• durable long screws;
• jigsaw or hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• carpentry axe.

To properly build a structure, you first need to make its drawing. The manufacturing technology of a simple wyma is as follows:

• wooden elements are laid in a horizontal position on a flat surface;
• place the workpiece. The distance between the elements is 40 cm;
• on both sides of it, a long beam is placed strictly parallel, fixed to the crossbars with self-tapping screws;
• to compress the workpiece, the wedge is wedged with special wedges;
• as soon as the product sticks together, the clamp should be disassembled. Its elements can be further used for different purposes.

Do-it-yourself carpentry clamps are an excellent tool for making doors, steps, window frames. Even if a person is not engaged in the production of furniture, he can significantly reduce the cost of repairing his home.

Homemade plywood clamps for gluing furniture quotes were offered to us by our subscriber Yuri Yuzhaninov. For their manufacture, birch plywood 30 mm was used. I made it to fit my size 67cm, but you can make it wider.

In principle, everything is clear from the photos

The basis of wym is strips of plywood 70 mm wide, 30-40 mm thick, and as long as you need, as mentioned above, for Yuri it was 670 mm. In these strips, using a drill and a jigsaw (band saw), grooves are cut in increments of 20-30 mm - no more than half the thickness of the workpiece.

Now let's take a closer look at the second part of the clamp - the stops. The front stop is a fixed part consisting of a block with a nut glued into which a bolt or a piece of stud is screwed. On one side of which there is a movable lining so as not to crush the shield. And from the second, a twist handle is welded on. This element is glued to the frame with the help of two "cheeks", smeared with glue and reinforced (pulled together) with self-tapping screws.

The second stop is overturned. It also consists of a pair of cheeks, which are connected at the bottom with a screw (it is inserted into the slots in the frame and can be thrown over them, changing the width of the board to be glued). In the upper part, between the cheeks, the same plywood gasket is glued as on the front stop.

Well, in conclusion, the photos of vime in the work. When gluing, it is advisable to lay strips of adhesive tape between them and the blanks, otherwise it will be difficult to beat them off the shield.