Reproduction of rabbits at home. Business on breeding decorative rabbits

Breeding decorative rabbits
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For most amateur rabbit breeders, breeding is not relevant. It is enough that one or two animals live at home. If they begin to multiply, then problems arise: where to seat, and then to put the offspring. Therefore, for most, it is better to keep one animal at home. Breeding issues become relevant in the presence of a thoroughbred, elite rabbit or breeding for sale. On this page of the site "" we will consider this topic.

The fertility of rabbits is widely known. Wherever they were artificially settled, in the absence of natural enemies, these animals were natural disaster. The example of Australia is well known, where four pairs of domestic rabbits were brought in the 19th century, which caused a real disaster on this continent. Even now, this problem has not been completely solved.

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Wild and domestic rabbits can bring cubs about 8 times a year. Under natural conditions, this was of great importance for the preservation of the species, due to the large number of natural enemies. Only a small proportion of young rabbits survived to adulthood. At home, dwarf and small breeds of rabbits can breed from 6 to 7, and their larger counterparts from 8 to 11 months of age.

The behavior of a rabbit ready for breeding changes. She rakes the litter, and often even begins to make a nest. For mating, be sure to put the female to the male, and not vice versa. A cavalier, planted in a cage with a rabbit, first of all studies the new environment, and is not interested in the female. After the first mating, the female is left in the male's cage for at least an hour for repeated matings, and then returned to her cage. A day later, re-mating is carried out. If the female is not yet ready for breeding, then she will run away or behave aggressively, knocking with her hind legs. Then the animals need to be seated so that they do not hurt each other, and try again after a while.

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The easiest way to determine the pregnancy of a rabbit is by her behavior with the male. If a week or two after the alleged mating, you try to plant a male to her, then, most likely, it will immediately become clear whether the female was covered. A pregnant lady will be clearly hostile towards the male, she will chase him around the cage, growl and fight back. However, this test does not give a 100% guarantee, there are rabbits who are not averse to mating, even if mating has already taken place. So it's best to use another method.

The fact is that already two weeks after fertilization, pregnancy can be determined manually: the rabbits are felt like small balls under the fingers. Palpation should be done very carefully and gently, in no case pressing the rabbit on the stomach! Unborn rabbits are too fragile, they are very easy to maim. If you do not have the appropriate skill, then it is better to entrust the matter to a specialist, the risk of harming the kids is too great.

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Another indirect sign of pregnancy is the sharply increased appetite of the intended mother. The rabbit needs a lot of food, because she has four to eight babies developing inside her. Especially clearly the appetite increases in late pregnancy, 15-14 days before birth. However, and this method is not accurate, there are rabbits who have enough of their usual diet, and some even, on the contrary, begin to throw food out of the feeders. In any case, an experienced rabbit breeder is usually not mistaken - by a combination of signs, it is quite possible to determine pregnancy almost unmistakably, and even in the later stages it is visible to the naked eye.

When breeding decorative rabbits, when the female bears offspring, she needs to be well fed, add juicy food to the diet: lettuce, grass, carrots. Feed should be of good quality, and feeding as complete as possible. The cage with the female should be located in a calm, quiet place so that there is no loud noise, and the animal once again didn't get nervous.

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On average, after 31 days comes okrol. The number of newborn babies in a litter most often ranges from 4 to 8. Purebred decorative rabbits bring fewer offspring in one litter, but larger ones. If there are few rabbits, then childbirth occurs a little later than usual. If the litter is numerous, most often the cubs are born before the end of pregnancy, which normally lasts 31 days. Before giving birth, mothers make a nest. They take straw or hay into their mouths in a dark corner of a pen or cage. Then the rabbit begins to pluck the down, that is, she pulls out the hair from the lower part of the neck, the front of the chest and abdomen. To prevent thin hairs from sticking to the mucous membrane of the rabbit's mouth, she picks straw or hay into her mouth, and then plucks the fur, that is, she creates such a kind of "barrier".

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Once the nest is built, birth usually occurs very quickly. Each rabbit is in its own fetal membrane. After giving birth, the rabbit eats the placenta and umbilical cord away from the baby's body. In most cases, she gnaws through the umbilical cord at the correct distance. After licking the first newborn cub, most often, the rest are born immediately. When breeding decorative rabbits, there are rarely difficult births. After the birth of the offspring, you should observe the nest; with clean hands, you can gently open it. The cubs are counted, the degree of their fatness, the condition of the umbilical region are carefully checked. The abdomen of healthy, well-fed rabbits is taut, without folds, the presence of the latter indicates a lack of nutrition or fluid.

It is best if the mother feeds the cubs herself. If there are problems, then you can try to do it yourself. But first it must be said that tiny rabbits regulate their body temperature very poorly on their own. Therefore, it is necessary to insulate the nest without a female as much as possible. Artificial milk - the most the best option, especially used for feeding puppies. It is believed that such milk is very close in composition to rabbit milk. True, it is expensive and sometimes difficult to find. Regular non-fat milk is the worst option. It is almost impossible to feed a newborn rabbit with them - the composition is too poor in nutrition. And in no case should you increase the fat content of milk. Well, the third option - you can find recipes for an artificial mixture for rabbits on the Internet.

All bottles for feeding puppies and kittens sold in pet stores, unfortunately, are not suitable - rabbits cannot cover even the smallest nipple with their mouths. You can use a thin syringe without a needle by pulling a pipette over it. True, it is rather difficult to put a pipette into the mouth of a weakened baby, although the absorption of milk itself occurs quickly. At the same time, the rabbit quickly falls asleep from fatigue and it costs more work to stir it up again.

angora rabbit

• • • • Similar business ideas:

Recently, keeping a decorative rabbit in the house has become a kind of fashion. They are cute, gentle, affectionate and kind pets, which are very fond of children. As a small family business breeding decorative rabbits - perfect solution. They are quite prolific, consume little feed, and when sold, they cost a lot of money. Moreover, in the pet market, the demand for decorative rabbits exceeds the existing supply.

How much can you earn on breeding decorative rabbits

Particularly good demand for rabbits is noted in large cities and metropolitan areas. Here, decorative rabbits are sold at an average of 3,000 rubles per adult animal. Small rabbits are sold on average for 1000 rubles. The most common distribution channels: markets, pet stores and, of course, the Internet. On the Internet, advertisements for the sale of rabbits are posted on forums, blogs, message boards, social networks. networks.

Technology for growing decorative rabbits

A decorative rabbit differs from a regular rabbit in its smaller size, weight, and "exotic" appearance. Adult individuals weigh no more than 1-1.5 kg. Decorative rabbits are bred in cages. They are fed mainly with hay, carrots, cabbage, cereals, tree branches, that is, what their older counterparts (common rabbits) eat.

Decorative rabbits are not whimsical enough. There is no need to walk them, they very quickly learn to walk in the cat's tray. Animals are very sociable, and quickly get used to the person.

Animals are quite prolific. A short period of pregnancy (1 month) allows you to get up to 8-9 offspring per year. The female decorative rabbit, depending on the breed, can bring up to 16 rabbits. The rabbits themselves grow very quickly. By the age of 6 days, the rabbit already doubles its weight, and a month later it already weighs 10 times its birth weight.

It would seem that if there is such a big demand for rabbits, why don't large farmers conquer this industry? There is a small problem of breeding decorative rabbits on an "industrial" scale. The thing is that rabbits are pets that must be bred next to a person in order to get used to him. Growing rabbits without constant contact with humans makes animals wild, which will affect their subsequent sale. Therefore, there is no need to talk about "monopoly" in this case. Rather, this is a matter of one, maximum 2 people in normal home conditions.

Step-by-step plan for breeding ornamental rabbits

1. For breeding rabbits, several separate cages are prepared: separately for males, females and offspring. Everything you need is installed in the cages: bowls, drinkers, trays, toys, etc.;
2. Before mating, rabbits are checked for health and readiness for the process;
3. For mating, the female is placed next to the male and left for some time (up to 3 matings). There are times when a rabbit refuses to mate. In this case, you should wait a few days and repeat the process;
4. After mating, it should take from 29-31 days when the rabbits are born. By this time (precisely after 29 days), more hay should be added to the cage, from which the rabbit will make a nest;
5. Rabbits are born blind, deaf and hairless. Eyes open 2 weeks after birth. Until the rabbits are overgrown with fluff, it is not recommended to take them in your arms. If wrinkles appear on the stomach, then this may be a sign of dehydration. In this case, you should consult with your veterinarian;
6. Rabbits spend at least 45 days with their mother. By this time, they should be able to feed on their own. Keep the rabbits clean, check the fluff at the back and remove the waste.

– difficult process, and dwarf breeds among breeders are deservedly considered one of the most problematic. Among possible difficulties- delayed maturation of breeding individuals and heterogeneity of litter.

Features of breeding dwarf rabbits, taking into account the influence of the Dwarf gene, are relevant for breeders of the following common dwarf breeds:

The following material is based on examples of breeding dwarf rabbits of the Dutch Fold breed, but the main points apply equally to the breeding of rabbits of other dwarf breeds.

Under the influence of the dwarfing gene, there are three types of individuals in the litter of the Dutch Fold:

• dwarfs,
• false dwarfs,
• viable rabbits.

Rabbits of the latter type do not develop normally and usually die a few days after birth. Sometimes they live up to two weeks, in rare cases they live to adulthood and good care can live for more than a year, being really miniature rabbits with very fragile, poor health.

False dwarfs rarely participate in shows, but can produce ideal show dwarf rabbits in a litter. Outwardly, they differ in an elongated body, long ears and hind legs, and besides, they are heavier - the weight of adult rabbits exceeds 1.8 kg.

However, all these external signs are not an absolute reason to consider an individual a false dwarf rabbit.

Rabbits, which most often take prizes at exhibitions and meet all standards, are real dwarfs. Their body is shortened, the ears are small, the hind legs are not too long, the weight range of an adult rabbit is 0.9-1.8 kg.

The rabbit in this photo is a real dwarf. It has a rounded head and a short body, weighing less than 1.8 kg.

True dwarf rabbit

The rabbit in the photo below is a false dwarf, it has an elongated body and a pointed muzzle, long legs and a weight of more than 1.8 kg. This individual will not win at exhibitions, but will not give underdeveloped rabbits in the litter.

False pygmy rabbit

How to identify underdeveloped rabbits? There are several hallmarks non-viable individuals:

• small weight - such newborns weigh about 21 g, while the normal weight of rabbits of the Dutch Sheep breed is about 40 g. That is, these individuals are about half the size of normal ones;
• the skulls are convex, the ears are set back;
• the thighs are often underdeveloped and the hind legs may be crossed.

The decision about the fate of such rabbits is entirely on the shoulders of the breeder - some prefer to take them immediately after birth, others leave them to live out their short life together with the rest of the offspring, taking them after the onset of natural death. This difficult moment is an integral part of breeding dwarf rabbits.

In the photo on the left are normal rabbits, on the right are underdeveloped rabbits.

So how to proceed when breeding and get real dwarf rabbits? A novice breeder is often mistaken in thinking that the most true dwarf rabbits will be crossed by two true dwarfs. But everything is not so simple.

To understand the situation and create a successful breeding program, you need to understand the following:

• a true dwarf has one true dwarfism gene combined with a normal gene (Dwdw);
• the false dwarf has two normal genes (dwdw);
• an underdeveloped individual has two dwarfism genes (DwDw).

On the photo is a charming Dwarf Hotot

Consider these provisions on practical examples of breeding dwarf rabbits.

Example 1. Breeding when crossing two real dwarf rabbits

Suppose, in order to receive maximum number exhibition dwarfs, an inexperienced breeder crosses two real dwarfs. Let's make a table and analyze the result.

Three types of rabbits will be produced: half will indeed be true dwarfs with regular features (Dw-dw), a fourth will be underdeveloped individuals (Dw-Dw), and another quarter will be false dwarfs (dw-dw).

Since the survival rate of underdeveloped individuals is very low and they are not suitable for further breeding, then, out of four individuals, two will be true dwarfs, one will be a false dwarf rabbit, and one will die. This is an average and, since dwarf breeds are usually not very prolific, the results of each individual small offspring will vary.

False dwarf - elongated muzzle, long ears

Example 2. Breeding dwarf rabbits - crossing a false dwarf with a real one

Now let the breeder breed a false dwarf with a real dwarf (it doesn't matter which of them is male and which is female). The average results will be as follows.

So, two types of rabbits will be obtained: half of the real dwarfs and half of the false ones. Note that in this case there are no underdeveloped individuals, which in itself is a remarkable fact.

Example 3. Breeding dwarf rabbits - crossing two false dwarfs

Let's say a breeder happens to have two rabbits with two normal genes in their genotype (this makes sense, but what it consists of, we will consider later). What will happen?

No surprises! All 100% of individuals will be false dwarf rabbits with normal genes in the genotype.

How to use it in a dwarf rabbit breeding program?

First of all, in order to successfully breed a dwarf breed and obtain exhibition individuals, it is imperative to have individuals in the breeding herd that carry the Dw dwarfism gene, that is, real dwarfs.

But at the same time, it is not necessary to cross only dwarf individuals and part, or even half, of breeding rabbits can be false dwarfs.

On the other hand, to consolidate and balance external signs- color, shape of the ears and crown, quality of fur, shoulder width, roundness of the head and others, breeders resort to crossing two real dwarfs, knowing that they will receive a quarter of non-viable individuals in the offspring.

When choosing the sex of a pair, if possible, it is better to select a male true dwarf (Dwdw) and a female with a false dwarfism genotype (dwdw). It's connected with physiological characteristics- rabbits with normal genes bear offspring better and recover faster after birth, are more prolific and show better maternal qualities.

But this does not mean that it is impossible to get offspring from a female of a real dwarf - it is quite possible and such rabbits also successfully bring rabbits.

Perhaps the breeder should weigh the feasibility and breed two false dwarfs with the right appearances for the sole purpose of getting more fertile females with normal genes (dwdw) that can be further crossed with true dwarfs (Dwdw). This offspring may well have the characteristics of show animals.

If the breeder has doubts about the genotype of an individual, they test cross, for which a dubious individual happens to a real dwarf rabbit. If non-viable rabbits appeared in the litter, then the individual in question was a real dwarf, but if there are no such underdeveloped rabbits, then the individual was a false dwarf.

Although this conclusion with a small litter may be unreliable. But if undeveloped rabbits do not appear in the next offspring, you are dealing with a false dwarf rabbit.

Once again, we note that it is impossible to rely only on external signs, in particular on weight, "by eye" determining the genotype of a rabbit. Heavy individuals can be true dwarfs and, conversely, small rabbits are false.

Participation of false dwarf rabbits in exhibitions

Sometimes the participation of false dwarfs who have not reached the limit weight in the exhibitions of thoroughbred rabbits really makes sense. This is important if the breeder wants to make sure that the external signs meet the breed standard, to understand that he is moving in the right direction or to find out what points need to be corrected. In addition, this is how you can solve the difficult question for yourself - is it necessary to use this particular individual in breeding your dwarf rabbits.

In the photo below, the rabbit has good proportions and could well participate in the exhibition until it reaches the boundary weight and is an excellent individual for breeding.

False Dwarf Dutch Fold

Moreover, in junior groups, false dwarf rabbits may well take prizes, and such awards will not be superfluous in the portfolio of any serious breeder or nursery. The presence in the pedigree of the awarded individual will give weight to the pedigree of his offspring.

So, for successful breeding of dwarf rabbits, one should not sell or cull all the false dwarfs of the herd, on the contrary, a part can be successfully used to obtain excellent show specimens and to stabilize the line.

Based on this, it makes sense to acquire individuals with the desired characteristics for breeding dwarf rabbits, even if they are false dwarfs, and sometimes such a solution may be preferable.

Summary

1. When crossing two real dwarfs, three types of rabbits will be obtained: real dwarfs, false dwarfs and non-viable individuals.

2. If you happen a real dwarf with a false dwarf, we get half a litter of real dwarf rabbits and half false ones.

3. When used for breeding two false dwarf rabbits, all rabbits will be with the genotype of the parents, that is, false dwarfs.

4. It makes sense to show at exhibitions and use in breeding programs individuals with the genotype of false dwarfs.

Dear readers, write about your experience in breeding dwarf rabbits. If you have questions or suggestions on the topic, write in the comments.

Dear readers, express your opinion, set a topic, post recommendations or questions in the comments below. Don't forget about the opportunity to send a story about your rabbits to Our Stories section.

Like all representatives of this genus of animals, domestic rabbits are characterized by high fertility and accelerated reproduction. Rabbits are characterized by multiple pregnancies and the female domestic rabbit is no exception, she is able to bring up to 16 or more rabbits, which she intensively feeds for 30-45 days. Rabbits give birth throughout the year. On the second day after birth, the female is capable of fertilization.

The period of pregnancy is short and allows you to get up to nine births per year. Individual farms usually achieve a result of 5-7 rounds.

important and distinctive feature rabbits is precocity. By the age of six days, a rabbit already doubles its weight, and a month later it weighs ten times its original weight.

Until the age of 4 months, rabbits grow especially intensively; by this age, they practically reach the size of an adult animal (about 80%). Until the age of six months, the weight continues to increase and by this time reaches 81-87% of the weight of adults. Rabbit growth stops at 8 months.

Breeding and raising dwarf rabbits

Rabbits have long been famous throughout the world for their fertility, and wherever they were settled artificially, and they had no natural enemies, they became a real disaster. Especially famous is the case of rabbits in Australia. Back in the 19th century, only four pairs of domestic rabbits were brought there, which caused a rabbit invasion on the mainland. The problem of disturbing the natural balance of rabbits in Australia has not been completely resolved.

On average, wild and domestic rabbits are able to give birth about eight times a year. In nature, where the rabbits a large number of natural enemies, such fertility is very important for the conservation of the species, because during the first year of life in nature only a small part of the born wild rabbits survive. This property is perfectly used for artificial breeding of rabbits. In addition, domestic rabbits of dwarf and small breeds begin to breed from the age of six months.

The behavior of the female rabbit before mating changes, she fumbles around the litter, rakes it and may even try to make a nest. When mating, the rabbit is placed next to the rabbit, but not vice versa. Otherwise, the planted rabbit will study the new situation and will not pay attention to the female.

» Rabbits

Any rabbit that is kept as a family member can be considered decorative, regardless of breed and size. However, most often by "decorative" they mean dwarf animals, bred specifically to become pets. It is a mistake to think that it is much easier to keep a rabbit at home than a cat or a dog. Eared pets require care and affection, and an attentive owner needs to arm himself with knowledge about caring for a new friend in advance. In this article, you will learn about the conditions of keeping a pet.

Breeds of decorative rabbits are classified:

• by weight bodies (large, medium and small)
• along the length of the coat(longhair, normalhair and shorthair).

Animals differ not only in appearance, but also in character. Some breeds are quite capricious and can cause a lot of trouble for a novice owner. Consider most popular dwarf rabbit breeds.

Longhaired. In appearance, the animals of this breed resemble a lump of fluff, from which ears barely peek out. Even the muzzle is covered with long hair (up to 20 mm). These rabbits require constant labor-intensive care: the wool needs to be combed every 3-4 days, and during the molting period - daily, otherwise the matted lumps will have to be cut out. Angora rabbits are medium-sized, before 1600. This breed is recommended for those who already have experience in keeping rabbits.

Originally from Belgium. Representatives of this breed are the owners of a luxurious mane that adorns the neck, while the hair on the body is short. Lionhead rabbits are the choice of those who want to have a long-haired animal, but are not ready to spend a lot of time caring for their fur. The weight of adult animals is 1000-1600 g, the colors are varied. Lionhead rabbits have a calm nature, love affection, get along with children.

Unlike the lion-headed one, it is almost completely covered with thick and long (up to 7 mm) hair, only the muzzle is smooth. The average weight is 1200 g, the most common colors are red or brown, but there are many of them. The front legs are disproportionately short. Rabbits of this breed are both aggressive and phlegmatic. Fox rabbits should not be chosen as pets for children, they require careful care.

Hermelin- completely white, normal coat. These rabbits have small ears, a short neck - features that give them the appearance of a charming toy. The animals are small, weight does not exceed 1500 g, but usually less than a kilogram. Germelins do not tolerate heat well, this must be taken into account when choosing a place for a cage or aviary. Otherwise, they are unpretentious, but very capricious, it will not be easy for beginner rabbit breeders with such pets.

Rex (royal pygmy) - short-haired, very soft to the touch, plush fur, like a chinchilla. The variety of colors is impressive: animals can be of any color, both solid and with spots. Representatives of this breed are more prone to skin diseases than others, since they have a reduced protective function of the skin. Weight up to 1500 g, salient feature- Whiskers are almost not developed. In most individuals, the character is balanced, even phlegmatic.

Colored dwarf rabbit- one of the most popular breeds in Russia. normal-haired, average weight- 1000 g. Unpretentiousness, a variety of colors (there are up to 60 variations), a playful and active disposition are the qualities due to which beginners or families with children can opt for this breed. Sometimes during puberty, males are aggressive, but by the age of 1-1.5 years, most of the animals again become affectionate and friendly.

Dwarf ram - lop-eared rabbit. The length of the ears is measured in the same way as the wingspan of a bird: from the tip of one ear to the tip of the other in a horizontal position, it is 21-28 cm. Lop-eared sheep are larger than other decorative breeds, their weight reaches 3000 g. . Ideal pets for kids.

the owner of an unusual color: the back half of the body and the head have a color that matches the color of the eyes, the rest of the coat is white. Normal-haired, weight reaches 2200 g. Playful and affectionate, able to get along with other pets.

Those who want to acquire an eared pet with an unusual color should take a closer look at such breeds as moth, pygmy hare and dwarf butterfly.

Breeds of dwarf rabbits are very diverse., among them everyone will be able to choose an animal to their liking. Rabbit specialists from nurseries or consultants in pet stores will answer questions about keeping and care and advise on which breed to choose for those who decide to get a decorative rabbit for the first time.

Features of keeping a dwarf rabbit at home

So, a new pet will soon appear in the house. What is the first thing to take care of? Decorative rabbits are kept at room temperature, in a dry room without drafts.. At the same time, it should be possible to ventilate the room: fresh air has a beneficial effect on the well-being of the animal and prevents the appearance bad smell. Dirt, dust, direct Sun rays will inevitably harm the health of the rabbit.

Rabbit can live in a cage or aviary, but in order for the animal to run and play to its fullest, it must be let out daily for a walk around the apartment.

Rabbits willingly gnaw on everything that comes into view. So that the pet does not spoil things and does not get hurt himself, you need to remove all dangerous objects in advance, giving Special attention wires. Releasing the animal from the cage, you can not leave it unattended.

To make your pet feel safe, house needed- an analogue of a hole where you can climb entirely. It is undesirable to get the rabbit out of the shelter: the animal must know that there is a place where you can hide or rest, and where no one will touch it.

How to choose a cage for a pet?

• Minimum cell size- 70x40 cm. It should be spacious enough so that the rabbit can move freely on it. Optimal Height- the growth of a rabbit standing on its hind legs, length - three jumps, width - two.

• For an apartment cages with monolithic walls are poorly suited: They are bulky and difficult to move. Comfortable cages with rods made of wood and metal. Wood is safe and beautiful material, the only drawback is that the rabbit will definitely gnaw the cage and it will quickly lose its aesthetic appearance. The animal will be comfortable in a metal mesh cage. If it is equipped with a plastic tray, cleaning will be a matter of a few minutes.
• Open cage top will allow the pet to feel freer, however, in this case, the height of the walls should be such that the rabbit cannot jump over them.
• bottom of the cage regardless of the material covered with bedding. From sitting on a hard surface, rabbits develop pododermatitis - painful sores on the paws.

• A toilet tray is installed in the corner. Rabbits get used to going to the toilet in the same place as well as cats, although it will take more time to accustom it. The presence of the tray makes it easy to clean the cage.

• A drinker is fixed on the cell wall(a nipple drinker for rodents is suitable). Food bowls are either also fixed to the wall or placed on the floor. For rabbits, you need to choose ceramic or metal feeders with a flat bottom., heavy enough that the animal does not turn them over.
• The cage is placed in a quiet and bright place., away from direct sunlight. There may be a small corner of the cage in the sun, then the rabbit can go out to warm up or hide in the shade again at any time. A curious pet will be happy if the cage is installed on a dais, which will provide good review. The rabbit will observe with interest what is happening in the apartment.
• If there is a cat or dog in the house, they should not have free access to the cage. Joint games with other animals are possible only under the supervision of the owner. A predator sniffing the cage will greatly disturb the rabbit, which is prey by nature.
• In a cage put a house-shelter. A rabbit with nowhere to hide is stressed.

Cell cleaning

rabbit cage to avoid the appearance of an unpleasant odor, clean at least 3 times a week. The bottom is covered with hay, straw or wood filler. Newspapers or paper should not be used: wet bedding is a common cause of paw disease; small sawdust is also dangerous for animals, since wood dust on the mucous membranes provokes allergies and conjunctivitis. You also need to check that the filler does not contain fragrances or chemical additives.

To clean the cage undesirable to apply household chemicals . Remains detergent can be dangerous to the animal. If the cage is cleaned regularly, it is enough to wash it with warm water. Severe dirt is removed with table vinegar.

If the rabbit is accustomed to go to the tray, the filler is completely changed twice a week.

What to do if there is an unpleasant smell in the apartment? First of all, find out the reason.

1. Dirty aviary(cell). To get rid of the smell, cleaning is carried out daily for 7-10 days, then especially contaminated areas are treated with vinegar and the room is ventilated.
2. Uncastrated male. Rabbits, like many other animals, mark their territory, and they cannot be weaned from this. Castration will solve the smell problem. In addition, castrated (neutered) rabbits become calmer and friendlier.
3. animal disease. If all the rules for caring for a pet are followed, but an unpleasant smell has appeared in the cage, this is a reason to contact the veterinarian. Perhaps the eared pet is sick.

How to care for and keep a decorative rabbit in an apartment

1. It is very important for the health of the rabbit balanced diet. The animals are fed with grass and hay, cereals, fresh vegetables and complete specialized feed.

• Rabbits eat up to 30 times a day, food should always be available. At the same time, it is necessary to immediately remove uneaten food residues from the cage, which can deteriorate so that the pet does not get poisoned.
• Succulent foods (vegetables, fruits, grass) are not suitable for rabbits under 3 months of age. Babies are given hay and feed.
• rabbits happy to eat meadow grasses. Having decided to pamper your pet, you need to check that no poisonous plants are caught in the collected grass. Grass for animals is torn away from the roads.
• Grains and legumes pre-soaked or boiled.
• For grinding teeth animals are offered solid food: young twigs of aspen, apple, willow, birch. Dried pieces of bread will be a useful delicacy.
• Mineral Supplements(bone meal, chalk) are given to all animals, with the exception of those that receive complete feed.

Rabbits should not be given dairy products, citrus fruits, meat, spicy, salty, sweet foods, red cabbage. Any other cabbage and beets cause indigestion. Legumes are given rarely, in small portions, in combination with other food.

1. Rabbits that regularly run around the apartment and get enough physical activity can not be walked. But walks on fresh air bring joy to both the owner and the pet. After making sure that there are no dogs, garbage, poisonous plants, the animal is released for a walk in the park or in a secluded clearing. Even the calmest the rabbit must be on a harness or leash: frightened of something, the animal can run away, and it will not be easy to catch it on the street.
2. Every 3 weeks the rabbit's nails are trimmed.. Cut off the tip of the claw 1-2 mm long with tongs or a nail cutter so as not to touch the blood vessels (they are clearly visible in the light). If the animal bleeds, the claw is washed with hydrogen peroxide.
3. Do rabbits need to be bathed? Veterinarians say that bathing is the most stressful for animals and contraindicated for a number of reasons.
4. Water treatments disrupt the natural protective lubrication of the skin. As a result, the coat becomes dull, falls out, the animal feels itchy.
5. Bathing often becomes cause of colds.
6. Stress, which the animal experiences, can be fatal.
7. Rabbits monitor the cleanliness of wool on their own, carefully licking themselves. With proper care washing is not necessary.

But there are situations when it is impossible to avoid swimming. For example, if an eared pet is very dirty, overheated, or suffers from diarrhea. How can you not hurt your pet?

• wash the rabbit in the sink or a basin is more convenient and easier than in a bath.
• Prepare room temperature water or a few degrees warmer.
• If possible animal is better not to wet the whole and wash only contaminated areas.
• Detergents should not be used. If you can’t do without them, purchase a special shampoo for rabbits. It is necessary to rinse the wool very carefully so that subsequently the animal, licking itself, does not get poisoned.
• Water the animal safer not from the shower, but from the bucket or mugs.

• head, especially ears and nose, can't get wet.
• You will need an assistant to hold the rabbit. frightened animal can break free and injure yourself.
• Important avoid drafts. All windows and doors must be tightly closed.
• Dry wool thoroughly with a towel.. Until the animal is completely dry, it is undesirable to let it go on the floor, it is better to leave it on the couch or pick it up.
• For drying wool do not use hair dryer: noise frightens animals, and delicate skin is easy to burn.

Vaccination

Timely vaccinations will help animals avoid diseases that are difficult to treat in rabbits and often lead to lethal outcome. Veterinarians recommend first vaccinating pets against myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic disease (VHD). In some cases, vaccination is not enough:

• rabbit will participate in the exhibition;
• planned trip abroad;
• the pet stays in foster care pet hotel
• registration of insurance for a pet.

Myxomatosis. The first vaccination is preferably carried out in the spring. The age of the rabbit is at least a month. Vaccination is repeated a month later, and then 5-6 months after the primary. Revaccination is required twice a year, in early spring and in autumn, when outbreaks of myxomatosis occur, so that the animal maintains strong immunity. The virus is spread by insects, so it is most important to protect the rabbit during the period of their high activity.

In Russia, most veterinary clinics use RABBIVAK-B and Cunivak Myxo vaccines.

Viral hemorrhagic disease (VHD). The first time rabbits are vaccinated at the age of 6 weeks and older, while the body weight of the animal should be more than 500 g. The second time the vaccine is administered after 3 months. Revaccination is required every six months or once a year, depending on the epidemiological situation. The most commonly used vaccines are RABBIVAK-V and Cunivak RHD.

There are also complex vaccines that stimulate the production of antibodies to two diseases at once. A veterinarian should advise on their use in each case..

Rabbits are also vaccinated against pasteurellosis, paratyphoid, listerellosis and rabies, but these diseases are not so widespread. Vaccination is indicated for animals from nurseries where there are many animals and the risk of infection transmission is higher.

Decorative rabbits are able to give the owner a lot of positive emotions and joyful moments. If properly maintained and cared for, animals live up to 15 years. But, having decided to get an eared friend, you should not forget: cute and funny appearance Don't make a rabbit a toy. it creature who needs love, affection and attention.