Fastening the jigsaw to the table. Do-it-yourself jigsaw machine for sawing: photo and video

Prior to this, the jigsaw was used only in rough cutting sections or for cutting sheet material. I worked with large files several times and each time I wondered why they were needed at all, if they were always taken away decently. But if you put the jigsaw on the table, then its functionality increases significantly. The jigsaw turns out to be able to replace (as far as possible) a circular saw, a band saw, grinding machine for delicate work. I spied the design on the blog at markellov for which he thank you very much! I placed my version on a folding workbench. The size of the table is 36x36 cm. The table itself is made of 12 mm plywood. The machine is completely disassembled and put away in a cabinet. The guide is fixed with 2 wing screws.

Bars under the table for fixing the entire fixture to the workbench, and also allow you to place fasteners for the upper guide caliper.

The jigsaw is fixed to the table with only one screw. To do this, in an oak bar, I chose a quarter to the thickness of the platform. In another bar, I made a quarter at an angle of more than 90 degrees and the platform enters it like a wedge, so displacement during work in all 4 directions is excluded.

I saw it on the net freaky in terms of workmanship table, but for this you need to try very, very hard. There are also finished the bourgeois have a solution, but as I understand it, it is most likely for some very small jobs. The top guide arm is height adjustable to accommodate different blades. I thought for a long time how to make it with a high degree of rigidity and at the same time avoid its bulkiness. Since the device itself does not have side walls that could serve as a support for the bracket, I had to tinker a bit. Pine bar in the center, a T-shaped steel profile is screwed to it and all this is pasted over with 12 mm plywood, which provides rigidity for the top rail. Here's what happened in the end.

To work with long blades without pulling to the side allows the node for fixing the edge of the blade, as in a band saw. The option with bearings initially seemed to me the most efficient, but then I still chose the option with oak guides. On wide blades, like band saws, the use of bearings is more justified, but here it is more convenient to adjust the gap between the blade by moving such inserts.

The result is a fairly compact machine for small sawing work. Now cabriols can be cut. The height of the cut depends on the length of the blade.

P.S.: MAIN What needs to be considered when working with a jigsaw in this position is the tossing of the part during operation, since the saw teeth in this case “look” up. Be sure to fix the part on top, as in sewing machines. In my case, the bracket is lowered and the lower part of the guide assembly does not allow the workpiece to bounce. Perhaps in time I will make a fixing foot.

I didn’t want to put my expensive Makitovsky jigsaw on the table all the time, so I decided to buy another one to create a table. I very successfully turned up a jigsaw in the store "Our House" Caliber LEM-610E for only 862r. Included: wood file, side stop, vacuum cleaner adapter, spare brushes for the motor.

There was an outlet next to the display case and I looked at it in operation. Quite decently made, convenient, there is an adjustment of speed with a wheel, the inclusion is fixed with a button. The saw holder moves clearly without backlash.

It’s very fortunate that I was able to twist it in my hands before buying it, I wouldn’t risk ordering it from the Vseinstrumenty.ru website without knowing what it is. (Although the reviews about it are good) By the way, it costs more there and also pays for delivery ... so I successfully bought it in Our House. :)

Despite the advantages, he has a number of shortcomings that he saw on closer examination:

1) The file does not fit into the file holder. Apparently this is a copy of the marriage, but I did not waste my time on the exchange. Each saw has to be sharpened. (Although on the second jigsaw I won’t be able to use them after turning - it doesn’t matter, they are relatively inexpensive)
2) And this drawback can be seen even in the picture. The canvas is tilted strongly forward. (This also managed to be fixed by putting under back soles of tin strips, achieving 90 o .
3) The speed control wheel turns hard, not very clearly and with jamming. At the minimum speed value, the tool cannot start at all (However, the same garbage with the start-up of my other "caliber" drills. This is unpleasant, but does not spoil life much)

As always, everything is in the spirit of minimalism. I did not make a separate switch. It is quite conveniently turned on with a standard button and fixed.

To do this, I bought a bracket in KrepMarket (this is a fastener from some kind of system iron structures)

By the way, I love CrepeMarket. Any screws, nuts, screws, fasteners. Every time I design something, I wander there in thought and collect the necessary details for myself.

The excess was cut and trimmed.

Back view. Now the distance between the bearings has a fixed file clearance of 1.2mm. I have a plan for the future: make a gap adjustment.

For thin materials can be omitted below.

As an experiment, I drew an asterisk and tried to cut it out evenly

For a 130mm file, the maximum possible thickness is 5cm. It turns out that there are very long files, I recently saw a 300mm file on the market

Sawed off a 1.5mm slice from a 40x40mm bar

Which is what I did. Now it can cut long workpieces with a width of 11.5 cm. The old L-shaped design also remained, and if greater strength of the holder is needed, it can be put back on, although new design remains strong and reliable.

I also came up with the idea of ​​making a knife out of an old blunt file, grinding off its teeth and sharpening it.

Well, perhaps that's all. The table turned out to be reliable and comfortable. Now I have a tool with which I can produce more fine work than on a circular.

Manual power tool very popular both among amateurs and in the environment professionals due to their obvious merit, namely:

• comparatively cheap and availability;
• compactness;
• mobility.

Reverse side of these unconditional advantages is the presence of such shortcomings, how:

• relatively small time of continuous work;
• small achievable accuracy;
• inadequate processing quality.

Obviously, these shortcomings are devoid of professional stationary solutions - machine tools and machines on massive beds. They are, as a result, sufficient not cheap but the main thing is that they need to be placed somewhere. But what if there is no way to equip workshop, but want to improve quality works? This question is asked by many of those who are passionate about a serious hobby, and even just beginners. masters.

In our article we will talk O decision, addressing known deficiencies manual jigsaw.

Benefits of a desktop jigsaw

The general limitations hand power tools fully owned and jigsaw.

Its main advantage is mobility - involves only manual movements and fixation tool. That is, in fact, it turns out that:

1. Very hard to do smooth, a clear cut: the slightest extra movement - and a visible flaw appears in the cut line. Going in the kit guides do not save because of their insufficient rigidity;
2. Injection inclination the saw blade in relation to the workpiece is actually not controlled in any way. And even in the simplest case of a straight cut, when the blade perpendicular the sole of the jigsaw, the result may disappoint. There are at least two reasons:
   • saw blade - elastic and can bend during the cutting process, the free edge of the file is not limited by anything;
   • On affordable (read - cheap) models, it is quite often perfect direct the angle between the file and the sole is difficult reach by virtue of the very design of cheap stamped grounds.

Interesting Mark, what, say, American craftsmen use manual electric jigsaw is quite rare. For example, when needed to cut opening in the kitchen worktop for installation sinks. In other cases, they prefer to use stationary band saws of various sizes. Such saws are completely devoid of some shortcomings (which are mentioned above), and are fully endowed with others: dimensions, weight and ... price.

Summarizing the foregoing, it is safe to conclude that, in some way fixing jigsaw on the desktop, you can to a certain extent win some of its shortcomings. And if you foresee guides free edge rollers canvases files, you can get a completely even cut. And clean - correct selection the saw itself.

Therefore, special jigsaw table significantly improve the quality of work with this tool.

Of course, you should not think that in this way you can get full tape saw. But more on that later, now - briefly about what will be needed for manufacturing.

Materials and tools

materials can be used from those that are at hand. I would like to point out that the working surface("tabletop") must be flat and sufficiently tough, Therefore, when choosing a material, you need to keep in mind the following points:

• Can be used plywood however, thin (less than 12 mm) plywood is susceptible to warping, and not the fact that the existing piece will be fairly even.
  Waterproof is preferred laminated("formwork") plywood thickness from 12 mm.
• If we talk about (particle boards), then in general, the thicker they are, the better - the more rigid. Ideally, a piece quality laminated kitchen countertops or "postforming".
  Of the minuses - less reliability mounts to her tool, you need to take a more responsible approach to the choice of fasteners.
  From pluses, perhaps the main one is accessibility and simplicity: you can order all set parts according to their size in any furniture workshop. Thickness it is better to take not the standard 16 mm, but more (for example, 22 mm).
• Metal it fits almost perfectly in properties, but in everyday life it is quite difficult to find a piece of suitable size, polished and even. Besides, do in it required holes somewhat more time consuming, then it is reasonable to use drilling machine.

A set of necessary tool will depend on the choices materials, but in general approximate scroll something like this:

• pencil, roulette or ruler, carpentry square - for marking;
• square will also be useful at the stage of final assembly and configuration;
• screwdrivers and nut keys according to the selected fastener;
• screwdriver or drill, drills for fasteners, self-tapping screws (screws).

In addition, you will need rectangular metal bracket, two identical bearing and fixture. Actually myself jigsaw will also come in handy.

Manufacturing steps

Regardless of the material chosen necessary:

• make base and connect to the work surface with holes for attaching the sole of the tool;
• make a system brackets for the top guide file;
• collect and adjust table.

Base and work surface

Dimensions grounds are chosen based on dimensions the existing jigsaw and are approximate.
The dimensions of the working surface are also indicated tentatively, from the mounting side of the bracket mounted flush with the base, on the other three sides small ledge for ease of attachment snap(clamps, stops, etc.).

Device bracket with guide bearings is clear from the figure.
Sizes can be chosen individually, but something necessarily must be kept in mind.

which limit the removal of the file to the side, you need pick up based on the size of the files that you plan to work with. Width the bearing itself (in the reference books it is indicated by the letter V) must not be greater than the width files, so as not to dull her teeth.

So, for example, if width saw blades for metal (T123X, T118A) usually more than 5 mm, then they will be suitable bearings with dimension B 4–5 mm, e.g.:

Wherein prefer follows models with letters ZZ, 2RS as the most protected from exposure to dust, which will definitely be in the process of cutting.

Saw blades according to tree, on the contrary, they can be narrow (T244D about 3.5 mm) and very narrow (T119BO about 3 mm, which can be used in our case). As an option - bearing 100093 (aka 693, 3 x 8 x 3 mm).

Under the selected bearing is selected fixture: screws M3 or M4, nuts (better "self-locking" with kapron insert preventing spontaneous unscrewing).

Distance between axes bearings is also calculated based on the size of the files, the thickness canvases may be within from 0.9 to 1.7 mm.

For instance, thickness blade T244D is 1.25 mm, and T123X, T118A is 1 mm. Rounding is best big side.

Assembly and adjustment

bracket can to fix in the following way

This method of fastening will allow adjust and the height of the guide bearings according to the length of the saw, and (using a square) perpendicularity the saw itself relative to the desktop.

As mentioned above, you should not flatter yourself - although this is no longer easy jigsaw, but still not a band saw yet. Here are some tips:

• • In a band saw motion saw blade only happens in one direction top down, due to which the workpiece is pressed against the table by cutting forces.
    It is possible to undermine the workpiece up, since the pendulum of the jigsaw makes and returnable motion.
    Therefore, the workpiece needs to be well press down to the working surface of the table and the most important thing is to feed (move) the workpiece as much as possible slower.

Note! More revs and less pitch is much better than the other way around.

• When working with a jigsaw (with or without a table), it is useful to remember that move jigsaw blades are usually of the order 15–20 mm, this value for your tool must be read in the instructions or determined by yourself. Material thicker than this value should only be sawn with divorce teeth. Otherwise shavings will not be completely removed, which is fraught with overheating and jamming of the web.
• Between the work surface of the table and sole jigsaw can pave the sheet dense rubber, having previously made an incision for the file. Assemble the table and let the canvas work a little idle so that the canvas "gets used" to the slot in the rubber. This will protect moving nodes of an inverted jigsaw from a large number sawdust, for which it is not designed, because in the normal mode, the designers of the tool clearly did not count on such a number of them.
• Protective glasses - necessary. And it is also necessary to organize the inclusion of the device through pedal or provide another way instant turning off the tool. But that is a topic for another article.
• Do not be afraid creatively think and improve their tools, because any idea - just a starting point for creativity, and universal solutions do not exist.

For more information on making a table for an electric jigsaw, see video:

This article will focus on the design of a home-made machine from a household electric jigsaw. The following will be step-by-step instruction, photos, videos, as well as drawings and diagrams.

Introduction

There are a lot of design options - from the simplest, where it just sticks out of the countertop, to rather complex structures with guides, the possibility of sawing at an angle, when it is possible to set not only 90 degrees to the base, but change the angle (well, within reason, of course) . There are devices (machines) for, that is, making a straight and even cut.

Such devices are increasingly being used because of their versatility and functionality. In fact, they are similar in parameters and purpose to stationary machines and have a strictly defined practical use in every workshop.

Purpose

Preparatory stage

• draw up sketches and make a drawing of the future product,
• make paper patterns of future elements and details
• stick templates on the blanks of future parts.

There are two ways to make templates - take a tracing paper and draw on it the kennels of the future workpiece. This has been done since ancient times, since nothing is needed for this, except for a ruler and a pencil. However, if you have a computer and a printer, it would be nice, of course, in A3 format, but A4 is also suitable (you just have to print several sheets and then glue them together), then the process of drawing with a pencil and a ruler can be replaced by drawing the outlines of blanks on a computer.

Then cut out with a clerical blade or just a sharp knife.

After that Once the template is ready, it must be glued to the workpiece.

Tip: You don’t need to glue it tightly, since in the future you will have to remove the template, and this will be difficult if you glue it “tightly”. Accordingly, you can stick, for example, on stationery glue, use glue stick or, as in our example, glue in the form of a spray.

Create blanks

At this stage, you need to do:

1. Cut blanks exactly according to the template,
2. Process workpieces - align the ends, remove burrs
3. Drill the necessary holes;
4. Make grooves with a file;
5. Drill seats for bearings;
6. Select grooves with a milling cutter for the cover and seat;

We install the bracket. It should be noted that the mounting of the bracket must be done without excessive tightening of the nut - there must be free play. To do this, use a self-locking nut and only slightly tighten it.

Installing the spring shouldn't be difficult. You need to do as shown in the photo below.

For the future fastening of the file, you need to make a simple clip in the form of a plate with two holes. It must also be installed on the bracket using a self-locking nut. Moreover, the backlash of the plate in seat the fact that the bracket is moving, and the clamped plate will restrict its movement.

Below is a sketch of the design of the upper attachment of the file.

Then it is necessary to make technological holes for the controls of the jigsaw, so that it is convenient to change the engine speed, you can access the start button and its lock. There is another solution that allows you to make it more convenient to turn on the tool - this is to place an outlet and a switch in an easily accessible place on the machine body, which would turn the power on and off in the outlet. We plug the cord of the jigsaw into the outlet, and it turns out that we will turn it on and off using a switch installed in a place convenient for us. However, this is a matter of taste.

So, below is the manufacture of technological holes on the body.

Here are the controls that are now available.

Now you need to make clips for the file itself. The principle is simple - we take a bolt and make a cut at the base of the cap, but not completely. In the future, the file itself will be inserted into this cut. The principle is shown in the photo below.

This is how the upper assembly of the saw blade is mounted and assembled.

The lower node is almost similar to the upper one, except that it is not a plate that is used, but a standard file is taken (you can use “BU”), almost the entire cutting part is sawn off with a grinder (angle grinder) and the shank is left. In the remaining cutting part, a hole is made with a similar bolt with a slot at the base of the cap, which will also include a file. The principle is shown below.

After the file is fixed, we install the jigsaw itself. We fasten it with the help of bolts with countersunk hats so that they do not stick out on the tabletop of the machine.

Now you need to adjust the perpendicularity of the file, relative to the table of our machine. To do this, you can use a square, or, as in our case, just a bar that is exactly trimmed. We make the adjustment as follows. To adjust the file to the left / right, the adjustment of the upper plate is used - its displacement on the axis - respectively in the desired direction.

And to adjust the file position forward / backward, the displacement of the file attachment itself forward or backward is used.

The machine is almost ready, it remains to make and install a plate that surrounds the jigsaw file. It can be made from textolite or any piece of sheet plastic.

This completes the manufacture of the jigsaw machine.
We hope that the presented material was useful to you.

Conclusion

dimensions

Here is a table with overall dimensions:

General assembly scheme

Let's attach a complete assembly scheme, which in a sense can be a 3B drawing for making a do-it-yourself jigsaw machine.

Video

The video on which this material was made.

An electric jigsaw is an extremely useful tool, without which it is simply impossible to imagine many operations for processing wood and materials based on it today. With relatively low weight and compactness, manual jigsaw allows you to cut out products of a rather complex configuration from blanks, but still, sometimes it would be more convenient to use a stationary tool. It is often more convenient to work with them, in addition, the machine provides a more accurate cut. True, such a machine costs several times more. manual jigsaw. Those who do not want to spend extra money on this equipment can make a jigsaw table with their own hands and get an inexpensive and efficient hybrid as a result. hand tool and machine.

Figure 1. Diagram of a table for a jigsaw.

The simplest device

Some kind of table for a jigsaw can be made in a few minutes. The advantage of this design lies in its simplicity. It is easily mounted on a workbench or countertop and can be easily disassembled if necessary. The disadvantage is its small area.

The working surface of the machine will be laminated plywood, in which holes are drilled for sawing and for installing fasteners. The plywood thickness must not be less than 10 mm. You may also need to prepare holes for the fastening screws in the sole of the power tool. The structure is attached to the workbench with clamps. The heads of the fixing screws must be flush with the plane of the sheet. Such a machine can easily cope with cutting small workpieces up to 30 mm thick. What the device looks like is shown in Figure No. 1.

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Second option

Another stationary fixture for working with wood consists of more parts, but making it is also easy. The bed of a table consists of 2 sidewalls and a back wall made of a chipboard. The machine does not have a front wall so that it is easy to get to the button. Holes are drilled in the back wall for the cord and tube of the vacuum cleaner. The cover of the machine is made of laminated 10 mm plywood. The whole structure is pulled together by confirmations. The jigsaw is attached in the same way as in the first case.

Figure 2. Scheme of the frame-stop for a jigsaw.

On a home-made machine, you can saw larger workpieces, however, when working with thick wood, the jigsaw saw blade can deviate back and in both directions. This degrades the cutting accuracy. The disadvantage is eliminated by installing on homemade machine bracket-stop (figure No. 2). The jigsaw blade will move between 2 x 11mm bearings that are screwed to the L-shaped steel strip. The back side of the file will rest on the wall of the bracket. This design will not allow the working blade of the jigsaw to deviate from a given plane.

The bracket is attached to a frame made of birch bars 50 x 50 mm. It can be raised or lowered depending on the thickness of the material being processed and the length of the file. To do this, the frame with an emphasis is attached to the sidewall of the machine not tightly, but is pressed against it with a steel, hardboard or textolite plate. Vertical stand birch frame is located between the bed and the hardboard, into which 4 clamping bolts are inserted.

The area of ​​the countertop depends on the size of the workpieces you are going to work with.

The machine can be made more perfect by installing a limit bar on it, which will help cut wood into blanks of the same thickness.

The limiter can be attached to the machine with clamps. It is made from wooden block, steel or aluminum corner. If desired, the bar can be installed on a sled attached to the bottom or sides of the table top. You can make 2 parallel slots in the countertop, along which the rail will move. Holes are drilled in it. Studs or screws with wing nuts are passed through them and slots. Roulette tapes are attached to the ends of the tabletop.

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Table made of bars and chipboard

Figure 3. Diagram of a table top for a jigsaw.

The manufacture of this table requires certain carpentry skills, since the connection of its tsarg with legs is carried out in a tenon-groove. However, dowels, wood glue and self-tapping screws can be used instead. The cover of the machine will be liftable to provide easier access to the tool when dismantling it. Figure 3 shows what the table top looks like. If desired, it can provide a place for installing a manual milling machine, then the machine will become multifunctional.

The table is made from:

• bars 80 x 80 mm;
• bars 40 x 80 mm;
• Chipboard or laminated plywood 900 x 900 mm.

The distance between the legs can be from 600 to 700 mm. Bars for drawers and prolegs are obtained after longitudinal sawing of 80 x 80 bars. You can choose the height of the legs yourself, based on how convenient it will be to work on the machine. At each end of the tsarg and prolegs, 2 holes for dowels are drilled. Corresponding holes are made on the sidewalls of the legs. Dowels are coated with glue for half the length and inserted into the ends. After that, the frame is going to draft. After correcting possible shortcomings, it is pulled together completely. All contact surfaces before assembly are lubricated with glue. Additional structural strength will be given by self-tapping screws, which are screwed through holes prepared in advance for them.

The lid is attached to one of the drawers on the hinges, for this a slot is made in it to facilitate the installation and removal of the jigsaw. 2 strips with a selected quarter are screwed to the back of the tabletop, which will include the sole of the power tool. Holes are made in the slats into which clamping screws or bolts will be installed. A jigsaw fixed under the tabletop will be able to process thicker workpieces if a recess is made for its sole in the lid. The easiest way to make it milling machine. The table turned out to be quite spacious, so a large thickness of plywood or chipboard can provide sufficient strength for its cover. Use 20mm or thicker sheets.