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Winter in Russia is harsh everywhere. Even on its warm side, the garden should be covered, protected from possible frosts in winter, ice hail and other natural phenomena. There are simple rules for preparing for wintering that will help you save your shrubs, protecting them from winter weather.
To ornamental shrubs your garden pleased with their healthy appearance, excellent flowering in the coming spring and summer, they should successfully overwinter. And in order to prepare for winter, such an important summer season for every gardener as autumn is needed.Start by giving conifers and other evergreen shrubs plenty of water. This should be done in late autumn. In winter, the leaves and the conifer itself are fed from their roots. And they need, respectively, moisture. Frozen ground only seems to be well moistened. But it does not provide such moisture, which is necessary for the roots of this type of tree.
Now you need to move on to caring for the plants in the garden and sheltering them for the winter. For this:
The root neck of a seedling of an ornamental plant in the garden (if the shrub is young) should be covered with bark, also with sawdust and shavings;
the above-ground part of the shrub bushes is covered with straw, a bag or burlap, covered with spruce branches;
cover shrubs in the garden at zero air temperature;
materials covering shrubs at the roots must let air through.
Some gardeners mistakenly cover ornamental shrubs for the winter with a film. This creates conditions for the development of fungus on shrubs, and also contributes to the appearance of mold on it.
The first wintering for young planted shrubs in the garden is the most important. As the plant overwinter, so it will continue to develop. At proper preparation for the first winter root system the plant will become much stronger, and already in subsequent seasons, ornamental shrubs in the garden will not need to be prepared for winter so carefully and sheltered from the cold.
Other nuances of care for evergreens before the winter period:
It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that coniferous shrubs can grow in the garden, which are sensitive not so much to frost as to wind and falling on their branches. a large number snow;
cypress bushes of a columnar shape, junipers for the winter it is better to tie with ropes so that their branches do not fall apart;
it is better to tie the crown of evergreen shrubs with twine;
coming to the dacha in winter, you need to brush off the snow from the bushes in the garden so that the branches do not rot under its layer and gray mold does not appear on them;
fungus can be treated coniferous trees for the winter with foundation;
in February and early spring, you need to follow the weather forecasts - when the continuation of frost is announced, as well as the threat of frost, the shrubs must be covered so that the young growths on them are not damaged;
sheltering decorative coniferous shrubs in the garden for the winter should be done in the period from the end of October to the beginning of November, that is, after a significant cold snap and the approach of winter.
About the features of caring for other ornamental shrubs in the garden
Shrubs that love heat, such as rhododendrons, hibiscus, budley should be covered for the winter with fallen leaves, spruce branches and nonwoven fabric which would allow air to pass through.Arriving at the dacha in winter, from the bushes that are hedges in the garden, sheared figures, you should definitely shake off the snow after it has fallen abundantly. Tie any columnar shrubs with twine.
Deciduous shrubs should also not be covered for the winter before the end of October. Cover in warm weather - they will rush under layers of covering material. Also, sheltering the root system of plants should be done in dry calm weather. Shrubs with brittle shoots are difficult to cover for the winter, but you need to try to do it. But unpretentious deciduous rhododendrons are quite resistant to frost, especially in the second and subsequent seasons of their wintering. Therefore, they do not have to be overly covered. Forsythia, actinidia, mock orange must be carefully covered for the winter.
Also prepare the soil in the garden for wintering. It should be loose, breathable, without excessive weeds that should be uprooted.
In the spring, treat the shrubs with complex fertilizers. Recall that each type of ornamental shrub requires its own fertilizer:
Potentilla - phosphorus-potassium;
budle, action - mineral;
mock orange, almonds - with phosphorus and complex;
boxwood, tamariksu - compost, slurry;
mackerel - compost.
Happy wintering in your garden!
Sheltering plants for the winter should be carried out on time and in moderation: too much zeal in such a matter can bring disastrous results. A slight frost is not so terrible for wintering plants, even very thermophilic ones, overheating is much more dangerous.
After all, plants often die not from cold, but from dampness caused by temperature fluctuations during a thaw. The moisture accumulated during a warm day from melting snow freezes at night and cannot evaporate from under a thick covering coat, which carries a real threat of decay of the root collar, and subsequently even the death of young plantings.
When to cover overwintering plants?
The threat of overheating and decay is exposed not only to plants covered for the winter with an excessively thick fur coat, but also to plants covered too early, when the weather is still warm from above zero for a long time. It is necessary to cover wintering plantings when the thermometer is steadily below 5-7 degrees below zero. and the ground will freeze by 4-5cm.
How to cover plants for the winter?
Of course, the best shelter is spruce branches. The material itself is warm and holds snow well. But if three thousand summer residents getting off the train at my stop go to the forest for spruce paws, then the forest will not live even two or three years. Therefore, we are looking for other equally wonderful covering materials, both natural and adapted for this purpose, which can replace spruce branches. For example, we rake fallen leaves (it must be dry), peat, humus.
Each type of plant has its own preferences in the choice of covering material. For example, mulching with pure peat, moist soil or sawdust is in no way suitable for roses, since these materials quickly absorb moisture and, with a sharp drop in temperature, form an ice crust dangerous for plants in the near-stem circle. The roots stop breathing, and the moisture accumulated under the crust causes the root neck to rot.
roses cut to the woody part of the stem: all the same, the unripe shoots will die, they will only spread the infection. Spud, and then sprinkle the bushes with clean, dry sand to a height of 20-25cm. Cut off the remaining leaves on the branches with scissors.
climbing roses must be removed from the support and laid on a spruce branch or on wooden shields. It is important for them that rain and sleet do not fall on the stems during wintering.
Clematis if necessary, it can be cut off, or it can be laid in rings around the trunk. They winter well if, after water-charging irrigation (it is carried out before the soil freezes!) They are sprinkled with dry earth or sawdust.
hyacinths, irises, primrose, violam a blanket made of sawdust or dry leaves 10-15 cm thick is suitable.
Not only clematis sissies and capricious roses need the pre-winter care of an amateur gardener. Attention is also required by other heat-loving ornamental plants:, hydrangeas, heathers, and conifers, as well as young, more winter-hardy plants that have not yet entered into force.
Pristvolny circle and root collar rhododendrons, especially young ones, you need to cover well with a 15-centimeter layer of fallen leaves.
Buddley requires winter pruning. Cut branches can be dug into the soddy soil in the basement, and planted in the ground in the spring - you will have a lot of buddles.
Mulching near-stem circles will help to endure winter easier hydrangeas and young coniferous.
A blanket of 10 cm layer of dry leaves or sawdust will be to your liking hyacinths, lilies, irises and other primroses. With this in mind, do not forget to remove the shelter in time in the spring.
Decorative creepers, which for some reason you cannot remove from the support for the winter, can be insulated directly on it: pull the branches with a soft cord closer to each other and to the support, then wrap the plants well with several layers of spunbond, lutrasil or other breathable covering material, from above wrap in foil. The insulation should be well secured with a cord.
Such sheltering can also be used to insulate young seedlings of heat-loving plants for the winter. fruit trees - apricot, peach, almond and other southerners whom you decided to accustom to our difficult climate of a more harmful strip. This will also protect them from February sunburn - for evergreens, the danger is not so much the winter cold as the winter sun.
Don't forget about this reliable insulation, as snow. The task of the gardener and gardener is to take effective measures for snow retention: the more snow lingers around the plant, the better.
The branches remaining from pruning the garden, carved stems of raspberries and berry bushes will perfectly hold the snow on the strawberry bed.
Stems of corn, Jerusalem artichoke and sunflower, coarsened stems of flowers, dried dill will also be appropriate for garden, berry and flower plantings.
Sheltering plants for the winter, carried out correctly, is warming with a moderate layer suitable for this plant material, made on time and contributing to snow retention. Good dreams to your plants during hibernation!
In winter, even hardy plants have a hard time, especially in last years. The weather has become completely unpredictable, it is becoming increasingly difficult to protect your garden from its whims. And do we always have reliable information on how to properly cover plants for the winter? But our mistakes can cost the life of green pets! Therefore, I propose to discuss fairly common myths about the winter shelter of plants.
Why did I decide to talk about this today, when, it would seem, it's too late to do anything in the garden and garden? Yes, because it is never too late to learn something new and useful about our favorite plants and learn from mistakes. I suggest we do it right now :)
Myth 1: All plants in the garden need shelter.
Recently, on television, in newspapers, and on the net, so many recommendations regarding the winter shelter of plants began to appear that many novice gardeners decided that literally all the inhabitants of the garden need shelter. But believe me, most of the perennial crops in your area are able to overwinter perfectly without building additional shelters around them, simply because they are perfectly adapted to the climate of your region.
Snow is an excellent thermal insulator.
Of course, there are sissies that are not too resistant to the vagaries of the weather, which you will have to take care of: first of all, these are all types of roses (the only exceptions are park roses), clematis that bloom on last year's shoots, phloxes, peonies, lilies, rhododendrons and others. But don't overdo it with cover! For example, the bulk of roses die not from frost, but from banal dampening, due to the fact that the plants were covered too early in the fall, and in the spring, on the contrary, they were opened too late.
Myth 2: sheltering a plant is a guarantee of its successful wintering
Many gardeners have seen a sad picture: carefully prepared for wintering, well-covered plants die for unknown reasons. Why is this happening? I think I won’t tell you a secret if I say that plants can die not so much from a hard frost, but from a sharp change in temperature during thaws.
It is unstable weather with sudden temperature changes that provokes excessive freezing and waterlogging of the soil. Outcome: various mechanical damage to plants, decay and decay of the root system and, as a result, death. Remember: might even die sheltered plant
!
What to do
- do not take shelter of plants for the winter as a panacea: shelter is only one of the methods to help increase the winter hardiness of plants. One, but not the only one;
- prepare plants for wintering in a complex : pay attention not only proper fit plants, but also their timely watering, top dressing. Cover your plants, of course, if they need it!
Myth 3: hilling the earth is a sufficient way to shelter undersized plants for the winter
Hilling- creating a mound of soil over the roots and the remains of the stems is a traditional method of winter shelter for plants. Thanks to hilling, we do not so much protect plants from frost (although the soil in the mound really freezes more slowly), but we create soil relief around them. Due to which melt water is better drained in spring, and the plant itself is protected from getting wet.Hilling - good way shelter plants for the winter, and it is pointless to deny it, but no one is going to. Just try to spud not with ordinary garden soil, but with humus. Why should you prefer it? Here are the arguments in favor of humus:
- it has a looser and lighter structure (in comparison with the earth), it does not cake;
- it has a higher thermal insulation, since it has low thermal conductivity;
- significantly improves soil fertility.
Such a structure will become a reliable shelter for your plants, believe me. Moreover, it needs quite a bit: simple framework and any suitable covering material.
Myth 4: the best covering materials for plants for the winter are spruce branches and fallen leaves
Well, I won’t argue: that spruce branches and fallen leaves are excellent covering materials, but ... Let's talk about them more specifically.Spruce and pine spruce branches are deservedly considered one of the best covering materials: it does not require material costs and perfectly copes with its task - it becomes an excellent shelter for plants for the winter. Moreover, it protects them not only from severe frosts, but also from the ubiquitous rodents that strive to feast on our plants.
In addition, spruce branches perfectly protect against cold winds, sleet and freezing rain. It does not increase frost resistance, but under its reliable protection, ideal conditions for wintering plants are created. Under the shelter of spruce branches, not only are temperature differences perfectly smoothed out, but the burning rays of the winter sun also lose their destructive power. Therefore, spruce branches are an ideal tool for increasing the winter hardiness of plants. But still...
If you live far from the forest, it will be quite problematic to stock up on spruce branches - this is the first thing. Secondly, even if the forest is very close, remember: in accordance with the Forestry Regulations, it is allowed to harvest spruce and pine paws only from already cut down trees located in planned logging sites or in places of sanitary cleaning. And thirdly, along with the spruce branches brought from the forest, you can bring it to your country cottage area various pests and even infection, but do you need it?
Before stocking up on spruce branches, walk through the forest and take a closer look at the pines and spruces from which you are going to harvest the perfect covering material - are they all healthy? Do you see yellowed twigs and rusty needles on them? And what is the condition of their bark - does it have small black growths and bare patches? If so, then such a covering material can only cause irreparable harm to the inhabitants of your site. How to be? The answer is simple - do not bring sick gifts of the forest to your site. You can harvest spruce branches only from those conifers that are healthy, and even better if they grow on your site.
fallen leaves
Fallen leaves are a good covering material: it reliably protects the soil from the first cold weather and serves as excellent food for earthworms, which, in turn, increase the fertility of this very soil. But can all the foliage be used for winter shelter of plants?
I think I will not be mistaken in assuming that every gardener had to observe how quickly the leaves of most garden trees. In addition, it is in the foliage that mice are very fond of settling down, which will not bring any benefit to the garden, but definitely harm. During the winter, only oak leaves do not have time to rot, and therefore it is better to use it as a covering material. As an alternative, you can use birch, maple and chestnut leaves.
But that's not all. Before you cover your plants with foliage, it must be properly prepared: the leaves must be collected freshly fallen and absolutely dry. Do not cover plants with wet foliage before use, it must be stored in a dry place.
Another disadvantage of using foliage as a covering material is its spring cleaning: a tedious task that takes a lot of time and effort. How to avoid it? Everything is extremely simple: collect the foliage in a timely manner, putting it dry in mesh bags made of plastic or nylon mesh with small cells (carrots, onions and other vegetables are sold in such bags) and cover the plants directly with these bags without pouring foliage out of them. In such nets, the leaves will be normally stored due to the fact that they can breathe freely. And in the spring, you can dismantle impromptu shelters in just a few minutes.
To foliage in nets throughout winter period remained dry and did not change, it is necessary to make additional shelter above it. To do this, you can build a rigid frame in the shape of a cube or pyramid (depending on the shape of the sheltered plant) and fit this frame with any non-woven material (but not plastic wrap!). If you don’t have non-woven material, you can use ordinary roofing material, roofing felt and the like.
Myth 5: Nonwovens are the perfect cover
Of course, non-woven covering materials have greatly facilitated our work. They make it easier to grow some heat-loving crops and can indeed be a great winter crop protection material, but only if you use them. right!
I will give a simple example: a spruce tree, carefully covered with a dense cover made of non-woven material, can simply die after winter. Why? After all, it is these covers that are sold in stores as protection for conifers!
In fact, everything is very prosaic: covers made of non-woven materials really perfectly protect conifers, but only in countries with snowy winters! In our harsh winters, when thaws alternate with severe frosts, you need to use such covers very carefully! Just think: all winter your poor spruce will stand in a wet and cold robe, plus strong cold winds and frosts, due to which it will turn into an ice shell. What plant can withstand such a test?
What to do? Not to use nonwovens as a winter shelter at all? And here it is not. Just do not wrap conifers in it completely: throw it on upper part tree crown, about 1/3, leaving the lower part without shelter. But in no case do not wrap the upper part of the plant with non-woven materials, make something like a hut. Then the tender coniferous branches will not touch the wet and cold non-woven shell. So you protect the tree not only from frost, but also from exposure sun rays.
But snow will become an excellent protection for the lower part of conifers. Just after a snowfall, rake more snow under the conifers and, if possible, shade it with spruce branches. And only when almost all the snow has melted (around the end of February or the beginning of March), you can throw some fabric over the rest of the tree. Not necessarily non-woven material, you can use ordinary burlap or thick cardboard shields.
If you definitely want to use a non-woven covering material for winter protection of roses, clematis and other plants - use it, but combining it with other materials - the same foliage or spruce branches. Only in this way will you be able to create the perfect winter shelter for plants.
You can also use as a winter shelter:
- snow - excellent material. It is he who will help you shelter the plants from severe frosts, but again, do not use only snow. Throw it on plants already covered with foliage and non-woven material - this will significantly increase the effectiveness of protection. Approach the issue comprehensively;
- expanded clay , which can be not only an excellent covering material, but also an excellent mulch, good drainage and a heat insulator. Moreover, the advantage of expanded clay also lies in the fact that it protects plants both in winter and in summer, perfectly protecting the root system from rotting. To prepare the plants for winter, expanded clay should be poured immediately after pruning the plants in the fall, it makes no sense to wait for colder weather, which is very convenient.
- peat , which has traditionally warmed the ground around various shrubs and trees. But be careful with peat - it acidifies the soil very much, and if for some plants this is only for the good, then for many it is to the detriment.
There is never too much information on sheltering plants, right? I have collected the most relevant publications on the topic. I hope they will be useful not only for beginners, but also for experienced gardeners.
Without shelter, some trees and shrubs would not be able to endure frost, sudden changes in temperature and sunburn. We have to protect the garden from rodents. The state of many cultures depends on the choice of means of protection. Unfortunately, some covering materials are responsible for damage and even death of plants.
nonwoven fabric
What winter shelters I have not tried. I also took into account the experience of my many acquaintances who are passionate about floriculture and gardening. It turned out that the same question arises not in me one and the same spring: “Well, how is it?”. A carefully covered plant is damaged, and those for which there was not enough time or covering material feel great after all the hardships of winter.
Until now, I remember a young pear, the trunk and skeletal branches of which, on the eve of winter, I carefully wrapped with several layers of lutrasil. Winter that year was predicted to be frosty. And she ended up with thaws, which alternated with severe frosts. It all ended with the fact that almost the entire bark of the pear remained in my hands.
In the same year, due to this method of hiding, I almost lost climbing rose. In the spring I had to cut most her escapes. Again summed up lutrasil. It turned out that I doomed the plants to torture with my own hands: they were wrapped all winter in wet and cold material, which from time to time turned into an ice shell. What kind of bark can withstand such a “compress”?
Since then, I have not done any wrapping with non-woven material. Many of my acquaintances amateur flower growers have abandoned caps made of non-woven materials that get wet when in contact with wet snow. How can they dry out while inside a snowdrift?
A few years ago, branded imported non-woven material, which sellers persuaded me to buy, almost ruined my Konik spruce. The buyer standing next to me tried to reason with me, explaining that this covering material is suitable only for countries with little snowy winters. In the spring, I remembered all his arguments when I saw the brown needles of Koniki. I managed to revive her, which I wrote about in the article "". The picture (in that article) shows how well Konika was wrapped in a covering material intended for coniferous crops. Since then, I have not packed conifers completely in non-woven material if snowdrifts accumulate in their places of growth. I throw the fabric only on the upper part of the crown, shading it (like an umbrella) from the sun's rays and warming it from frost. It is safer to leave the lower part of bushes and trees, protected by snow, without additional insulation nonwoven material. It is quite another matter if there is little or no snow at all.
fallen leaves
Fallen leaves are great insulators. But not all. The humus heap, where fallen leaves are piled up, can be considered as a visual aid. The leaves of most trees quickly darken and are compressed. The decomposition process begins. The exception is oak leaves. It does not have time to rot during the winter and does not cake as much as the leaves of other trees and shrubs. I know a grower who only covers his roses with oak leaves, counting them the best insulation. I send uninfected fallen leaves either to a humus heap, or I fill it with a pillow under currants and gooseberries. In some places, straw is successfully used for winter shelter, but it is very attractive to mice.
About two years ago, in late autumn, I sprinkled rotten foliage under the blue spruce "". Two weeks later, the needles on several lower branches began to rapidly change color from blue-gray to brownish with an ashy tint. Urgent measures helped: all the foliage was removed and swept, and the ground under the branches had to be sprinkled with fresh soil. The needles were washed well with water from a hose. This stopped the process of bacterial infection, the browned needles soon crumbled.
Peat
Peat (dark) traditionally insulates the ground under many trees and shrubs. A large number of plants benefit from this. But from peat it can die. First, it strongly acidifies the soil. Secondly, when dried, it forms a crust that almost does not let water through, which leads to rapid dehydration. About five years ago, I mulched the soil for the winter under all the lilac bushes. In the spring I felt something was wrong. The bushes overwintered, and by May they began to dry out together. When I removed the peat and watered the ground, everything was fine.
Once again about spruce
Spruce and pine spruce, of course, is the best covering material. I already wrote about its advantages and troubles associated with it in the article "" There are also excerpts from the Forest Code, which allows (with some reservations) individuals to bring spruce branches from the forest. Coniferous spruce branches are an excellent protection against rodents. To do this, the trunks and low skeletal branches of fruit trees are wrapped with it, and then pulled together with twine. Yes, and rodents will not touch those plants that are protected by spruce branches.
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Before, everything was clear: after a warm summer, a rainy autumn came, and after an autumn, a frosty winter. It was clear that heat-loving plants needed to be protected from freezing, and subtropical plants from getting wet.
Now the weather is "smeared" by the seasons. Autumn now encroaches not only on summer time, but also for part of the winter, and winter - December, part of January or even all of January - often cries with autumn tears. Since no one has canceled the winter, just at this time such a frost can hit that it will not seem enough. And our garden pets will remain defenseless against the winter cold, because there is no snow - their protector - on the ground, and all the soil is covered with a crust of ice. And the roots have nothing to breathe under the ice. Therefore, our main task now is to help plants meet the winter "with a fur coat and felt boots."
Most perennial flowers and shrubs are well tolerated by all the features of the autumn-winter period, including sudden changes in temperature. However, some breathtakingly beautiful curiosities cannot exist in our climate without the help of gardeners. Such plants have to be carefully covered in case of a little snowy winter. First of all, these are flowers that we do not dig up for the winter, and ornamental shrubs.
Flowers
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Be sure to cover - preferably spruce branches - planting incarvillea, Japanese bearded irises and orchid primroses. At least a few branches of spruce branches should be thrown at the plantings of terry marigold, Japanese anemone and Korean chrysanthemum winter-hardy varieties. All stems are pre-cut to 10-12 cm, and chrysanthemums are also spud to a height of 15-20 cm. The leaves of the Japanese anemone are not cut, but the spruce branches are laid directly on them, since they themselves serve as additional thermal protection for the roots.
It would seem that such a flower, which has taken root well with us, like a tulip, should not freeze out in winter. Tulip bulbs can withstand temperatures up to? 11 degrees. However, the newest varieties of lily-colored, fringed, and especially parrot tulips can be seriously affected if there is not enough snow or sudden severe frosts. Therefore, it is better to cover the plantings with spruce branches and mulch with compost or peat (a layer of 5-10 cm). The same applies to both new and well-known beautiful varieties daffodils. As a rule, the more intricate the variety, the less winter-hardy it is.
Let's not risk the life of hyacinths either. They are mulched in the same way as tulips and daffodils, with a layer of peat or compost. You can also cover plantings with fallen leaves.
Many flower growers decorate their gardens with lilies. If these are Asian hybrids, then there will be no problems with wintering. A normal winter is also well tolerated by tubular lilies and oriental hybrids. early varieties(for example, Casablanca and Marco Polo), but if severe frosts are expected, then it is better to cover the plants with a thick layer - 20 cm - of mulch or spruce branches.
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Late varieties of oriental lily hybrids require warming in any case, since after flowering they do not have time to restore strength before the start of winter. It is especially dangerous to leave them uncovered this year, as they bloom later than usual due to the cold summer.
Be sure to cover the Candida lily - after all, its bulb hibernates at the very surface of the earth. A couple of spruce branches and fallen leaves - 20 centimeters in total - will be just right.
Many flower growers shelter peonies for the winter. I don't usually do this because the place is dry. However, after the autumn pruning of the stems, I always sprinkle the formed stumps and the soil around them with lime.
Buddley
Some restless flower growers who do not live in peace have decorated their gardens with this luxurious shrub. Gardeners from the Kaluga, Volgograd and other regions of Russia share their experience in magazine articles: if the buddleia branches are bent to the ground for the winter, then this plant will be able to winter under the snow without shelter. But we have snow, if it falls, then at Christmas it almost always melts. As a result, the branches of the buddley are exposed, and the bush dies - it freezes or rots. Therefore, you must either cover the plant completely, as is done with roses, or cut off all the branches, leaving stumps with one or two pairs of buds. It is easier to cover a chopped bush (it is better with spruce branches, and not with leaves, so as not to snot). In the spring, it will give new shoots from dormant buds, and by autumn it will bloom - if, of course, it overwinter. The chances of such a feat in buddley in Leningrad region small. Usually this plant spends so much energy on wintering in our area that it does not survive more than one (maximum two) winters.
Mahonia holly
Now this evergreen shrub grows in many gardens. Some gardeners consider it to be low-hardy, because it often dies in the spring, but the cause of death of this plant is not winter frosts and the spring sun. In early spring when the root system of mahonia is not yet working, the leaves and buds that have appeared from under the snow are burned sunlight. To protect the plant, in the fall it is necessary to cover it from the spring radiation. You can, of course, do this at the end of winter, but it is better to take all necessary measures in advance.
I usually stick fir paws around the bush (on the south side) so that the shade protects the bush from them. You can also make a "wigwam" out of stakes and old sheets. If any branch crawls out from under this shelter, then in the spring it will certainly turn red and dry. However, those shoots that remain in the shade will survive and become a worthy decoration of the garden.
young shrubs
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Coniferous plants also need to be protected from the spring sun. In general, all shrubs that start growing in spring should be covered with a cloth for the winter. Such plants include, for example, forsythia ovoid.
You also need to cover young ornamental shrubs - panicled hydrangea, action, vegella, tamarix, etc. In adulthood, they will learn to hibernate themselves, but at first they require protection.
For insulation, I have recently been using lutrasil. I build a “wigwam” above the bush from rods stuck into the ground, which I wrap with several layers of this material. All wintering under such shelter ends safely for the plants. I also use a synthetic winterizer that is waterproof and well-kept warm (for “dry” shelter of roses and clematis). This is a good replacement for spruce branches - after all, spruce and pine trees must be protected!
tree peonies
Gardeners are just beginning to develop this plant. Often, young shoots do not have time to become woody and freeze slightly in winter. There are several ways to speed up their maturation. For example, do not water the plants in August. Another way was suggested by our botanist Andrey Knyazev: in October, you need to shorten the leaf blades by 2/3 in order to speed up the ripening of the shoots of the current year, thereby increasing their frost resistance. In early October, you need to mulch the trunk circle with peat or a mixture of peat with humus. And to prevent freezing of the apical buds, the plants are covered with spruce branches or several layers of synthetic material.
Bela Senich
