How to screw the guides to the chest of drawers. How to screw the guides to the box: choice of option and materials

When assembling factory-made furniture, the question of installing guides on drawers is not at all worth it. Markup for correct installation usually produced (and very accurately), and installation instructions are attached. We take into account that all the accessories are available and you do not have to select any elements for fasteners. But when repairing furniture or during its production, you have to independently calculate the position of the guides for sliding furniture elements.

Ball guides

When choosing guides, preference is increasingly given to the ball version. And this is no accident: ball skids are superior in many respects to all other rail designs. They provide easy pull-out of drawers, are fairly easy to attach and adjust, and are able to fix the pull-out element in its usual position.

Buying them in the distribution network has ceased to be a problem, so it remains to learn how to properly attach them to furniture. To ensure this process, you will need:

• guides;
• screws;
• screwdriver;
• ruler;
• pencil;
• awl.

Item Quality

When buying, pay attention to its length (it must be at least 70% of the length of the drawers) and completeness. It is better to immediately purchase the structure along with screws, so that later you do not get additional problems. Check the ease of movement of parts of the structure in the store.

Ball options consist of two parts. To disengage them (and this is necessary for fasteners), press the rubber retainer and simply slide out the inside of the guide. It will be directly attached to the retractable element.

Features of fastening to the box

Devices can be mounted on boxes in two ways: along the lower edge of the side wall of the box or in their central part. Fastening guides along the central axis of drawers is recommended if the dimensions of the drawers themselves are large enough. In this case, the load on the structures will be less, which will ensure their durability. This makes it easier to mount the devices, but it is more difficult to accurately adjust them. To simplify, take an additional tool called a level.

Only repeated measurements will help to make everything qualitatively. Without building level in this case, too, is indispensable. In other cases, ball guides should be mounted along the bottom edge. And here, too, there may be several installation options: flush with the front panel drawer or with a slight indentation in depth. It is easier to fix the ball structure according to the first option. So you don’t have to do additional markup, and there will be no need to carry out calculations. facade panel box to be removed.

Take the guide in your hands and lay it against the side panel. Make holes in the attachment points with an awl. So it will be easier for you to wrap the screws strictly perpendicular to the panels. Hats will not stick out and interfere with work. Directly on the boxes, the ball structure can be fixed permanently. But on the side panels of the cabinet, this is not recommended.

Marking and adjustment

Please note that ball guides have both horizontal and vertical holes. They are designed to adjust the position. Ordinary round holes are needed for final fixation. To attach the structure to the side panel of the pedestal, it is necessary to make a careful markup. Step back from the bottom panel of the cabinet about 3 mm and draw a horizontal line with a pencil at this height. Place a guide along this line (the line should be strictly under the guide) and wrap (not all the way) the screws into all oblong holes.

Now you can check their installation using a drawer: we combine the parts of the guide and check the movement. If everything is done correctly, then the box should move easily. When the drawer is fully closed, both latches should work. If all this is not there, then the ball devices must be adjusted. Slightly loosen the screws and achieve the elimination of all imperfections. And only after that finally all the screws should be screwed up to the stop. At the last stage, we fasten the fixing screws. It remains only to install the panel strip on the drawer and fix it with screws.

At first, the latches will work too hard: it will be possible to open the drawer only with great effort.

You should not be afraid of this: over time, the latches will develop, and everything will become much easier. If this does not suit you, then you can install ball guides without clamps.

Ball structures without clamps are also not difficult to purchase. Well, if it was not possible to find such, then the latches themselves can be easily removed from ordinary guides.

It is much more difficult to install ball devices on drawers that were previously mounted on rollers. The fact is that roller guides are usually a little wider, so installing other varieties may seem like an insoluble problem. In reality, everything is not so difficult: it is enough to put a solid tire under the guide on each side to level the difference in thickness.

If the sliding elements are located one above the other, then you will not be able to do without calculations. There are even certain calculation formulas that express the relationship between the size of the drawers and the place where the guide should be installed. It's easier to get technological map, where all calculations will already be made.

Best Method

An interesting way of marking, which completely eliminates all installation flaws, is recommended by craftsmen. First, they advise screwing the guides to the retractable elements and connecting both parts. The Euroscrews on which the furniture body is mounted must be loosened to allow the side panels to move out of the way.

On the outer part of the guide (the part that should be adjacent to the side panel of the case), a layer of any coloring matter is applied. The drawer slides neatly into position. It is recommended to put a sheet of cardboard under it to provide the necessary clearance between the bottom of the box and the bottom panel of the case. After that, the screws are tightened to the stop. Coloring matter will give an accurate imprint on the surface.

It is at this point that the ball guide should be screwed to the side panels. The method is simple to genius: it will no longer be possible to put a more precise guide. The only drawback is that the furniture body will have to be partially dismantled.

The back panel will definitely have to be separated, as it will prevent the side panels from moving freely. Is it worth it to install the guide? The method, although accurate, is not the fastest.

Roller guides the simplest guides in terms of device and installation. The average price is 50-100 rubles. for a couple. Roller guides look like in the photo below, for sure you have seen them, and more than once.

Roller guides are covered with durable epoxy enamel, guides of different colors are found on sale, the most common guides are cream colors. You can find roller guides for drawers with a depth of 250 to 800 mm, that is, for almost all cases.

Roller guides withstand a dynamic load of up to 25 kg, you are unlikely to store something heavier in a chest of drawers or in a drawer in a closet. The disadvantages of roller guides are the noise with which they are extended and closed, the extension is partial. But low price eliminates these shortcomings.

According to the installation scheme, the gap between the outer part of the side wall of the box and the side of the product body should be 12.5 mm or 25 mm on two sides, usually 26 mm is taken in calculations. This means that the dimensions of the box in width should be less inner space cabinets for 25-26 mm.

Ball guides

Ball guides, or even as they are called telescopic guides, are able to withstand heavy loads, have a smooth ride. The cost of guides is 300-400 rubles. for a couple. There are options with and without closers.

Ball guides, like roller guides, consist of two parts. One of them is attached to the box, the other to the side wall.

In order to separate them, you need to press the latch, as shown in the photo.

You can, of course, install without disconnecting, but this torment is something else, I had a chance to try it on my own experience. As a result, a negative idea can be formed about ball guides, about the complexity of their installation. In fact, everything is simple.

Installation of ball guides by elements it is made on the side walls of the cabinet and the sides of the drawer.

The most commonly used ball guides are 45 mm high, the size range of guides is from 250 to 700 mm, they can withstand loads up to 36 kg, which is more than.

Calculation of the box on ball guides similar to the calculation of roller guides, the dimensions of the box in width are defined as the size of the internal space minus 26 mm (12.7 mm + 12.7 mm).

Metaboxes

Metaboxes– pull-out system based on roller guides. The material of the metaboxes is 1.2 mm thick steel covered with high-strength enamel. Price 300-400 rubles. for a pair, produced by "Blum" in the region of 600-700 rubles.

Tandems

Hidden tandem slide technology ensures smooth running even for heavily loaded drawers. The drawer can be easily removed from the rails without tools.

Tandem- it is a smooth ride and full or partial extension. Drawers can be either with built-in closer or without. The tandem can be equipped with Tip-on (front push opening system). The cost of guides is 1000 -1500 rubles. for a couple.

On the drawer guides Tandem can make a box under the sink. Since the sink has a convex part, which is located inside the body, the standard, that is, the direct design of the drawer, is not suitable here. The convex part or the bottom of the sink will not allow the drawer to close. In this case, the bottom of the box is made with a cutout, the walls of the box made of chipboard are attached along the cutout. The whole structure is mounted on Tandem guides.

Application tandem rails involves the use of chipboard 16 mm thick, although solutions with using chipboard 18 mm thick.

The most expensive segment of the drawer guide market. The sides of the box (sides) are made of thin-walled steel, unlike tandems, where the body of the box is made of chipboard.

The kit includes fasteners to the facade and fasteners for the rear wall of the drawer. The detailing includes a bottom and back wall made of chipboard, like a metabox. Guides are similar to tandems, have soft closing, with closers.

Tandemboxes can be equipped with an opening system that does not require the installation of a handle on the front, it is quite easy to press the front with your hand.

Tandemboxes of various heights and variety of the range far exceeds metaboxes. Let's look at an example Blum tandem boxes.

Height N, drawer side height 68 mm, smallest drawer

Height M, drawer side height 83 mm

Height C, drawer side height 115 mm

It is used for high facades, the rear wall is enlarged, a railing is also added. Minimum Height internal space for a drawer 191 mm.

Height also D, drawer side height 83 mm

It is used for high facades, the back wall is also enlarged, but instead of two railings, the railing with Boxside is an overlay on the drawer side. The minimum height of the internal space for the drawer is 224 mm. The solution is mainly for kitchen drawers, not wardrobes.

Two triple tubular holders and railing tubes make it possible to make a special drawer on tandembox rails into a sink cabinet. Thanks to the cutout in the bottom, the drawer allows you to bypass the sink protruding inside the cabinet body.

One more interesting solution from Blum is the use of tandembox rails for a corner cabinet called space corner.

The set of fittings includes a number of specific elements that are not found in other guides, and this fitting, frankly speaking, is not cheap. Space corner allows you to effectively use the corner space in the kitchen, and the use of ORGA line dividers additionally structures the storage space.

initially boxes were positioned as elite products that were inaccessible to a mere mortal furniture maker. The point here was not at all the price, but the price, by the way, was the highest in comparison with other extension systems, but the complexity and accuracy of manufacturing the remaining parts from chipboard, the accuracy of milling the bottom of the box, the accuracy of drilling the side walls of the case and facades. Therefore, Legrabox boxes were offered to furniture companies that produce high-end furniture.

Installation, calculation and installation of guides for boxes

It is not enough to know what drawer guides are, but the question arises, how to calculate and install guides.

The Internet provides a large number of methods and approaches in the calculation and installation of guides. I use a simple, user-friendly program from Blum called DYNALOG, for design we use the DYNAPLAN module.

The program allows calculate both roller guides and metaboxes, Tandemboxes and tandems. At the output, we will receive a list of parts with dimensions, necessary fittings, drilling drawings for the side wall and facades. Special furniture programs are expensive, it makes no sense to master them, and even more so to buy if you want to make products for the home yourself.

As an example of a basic product, I will give a pedestal with a height of 616 mm, a width of 600 mm, a depth of 500 mm with false facades 200 mm high, drawers made of chipboard 150 mm high, gaps between the facades 4 mm.

If we want to calculate installation of drawers in wardrobe, then please note that with a cabinet depth of 600 mm and internal partition 500 mm, we calculate for inset facades, the facades will be inside between the side wall and the partition, as well as between the horizontal walls. Side gaps are best done by 4 mm in the variant of inset facades.

Equipping drawers with ball (telescopic) guides provides significant advantages in their operation. They ensure smooth and silent sliding of drawers in kitchen cabinets, chests of drawers, sliding wardrobes and other furniture.

The components of the guides move easily thanks to the strong metal balls inside the profile, which allows, if necessary, to extend the loaded drawers to their full length. Some models extend by 90 cm and can withstand loads up to 45 kg.

In addition to these advantages, one can note their affordable cost, wear resistance and, importantly, ball guides for drawers are not difficult to install on their own.

In order for the mechanism to work flawlessly, it is necessary to correctly mark the attachment points of the components. There should be gaps between the wall of the box and the side of the cabinet on both sides, in which the guides will be placed. Usually it is 13 cm on each side.

The length of the guides is from 25 to 90 cm in increments of 5 cm, they should be approximately 6-10 cm shorter than the box itself. Therefore, the mechanism is mounted in the middle of the side wall of the box, leaving small gaps in front and behind.

Also, there should be at least 10 mm between the back walls of the drawer and the cabinet. free space. The easiest way to make markings and fasten the guides in the process of assembling furniture is much more convenient and faster.

Markup and installation

First of all, draw lines of attachment. It is recommended to mount the guides on the box in the center, but mounting is also allowed in its lower part. A similar line is marked on the inner side of the cabinet. The smoothness of the movement and the duration of the operation of the mechanism will depend on the accuracy of the measurements.

Before installation, the guides are divided into halves: pressing the black "antennae", they pull out the inside of the device. The halves are attached to the marked lines, then the box is brought into place, they try to close it and push it out.

If everything was done correctly, the latch will work and a slight click will be heard. This is a signal for the final fixing of the guides. Otherwise, you will have to slightly loosen the fasteners and still adjust the mechanism.

There are oblong holes on both parts of the structure: the vertical ones are designed to move the bar up and down, and the horizontal ones are for horizontal adjustment. By carefully adjusting the mechanism, you can finally fix the elements with self-tapping screws or screws.

Telescopic rails are available in left and right versions and cannot be interchanged.

The guides can provide partial or full extension of the drawers, be with or without closers, be equipped with the Push to open system when the drawer does not have a handle, and it is enough to press it to open it. Also, products can be equipped with a reliable latch that holds the boxes in the closed position.

Video: Replacing telescopic rails

For a long time I was going to write a lesson on working with roller guides. Here, at last, he got it. I already laid out the filler circuits here in. Now just bare practice. For example, I will assemble a simple nightstand with three drawers.

Let's start with boxes. They are assembled easily and simply on (a pair in each corner). The side walls are overhead, that is, on them the confirmations are screwed into the face, and the front and rear walls are loose, that is, into their end.

Then we put the back wall in place, carefully align it and pre-fasten it with three nails (two in one wall and one in the next one) so that the bottom does not move.

After that, we turn the box over and use a tape measure or ruler to check its diagonals. They must be equal.
If not, we pull out a lone carnation, bend the box as it should and hammer it back. As soon as the geometry of the box has come into compliance, you can screw the bottom onto a permanent base (with self-tapping screws). Moreover, in the front and back walls just with screws, and in the side walls we immediately fasten the guide. First, we impose it, align and drill holes with a thin drill.

Then we screw self-tapping screws into these holes.

We have finished with the boxes for now, let's move on to marking the racks. I use the following technique (a minimum of mathematics). So, first we mark the borders of facades with interfacade gaps on the front edge of the rack. You can not apply facades, but simply use a ruler, but it’s clearer this way.

Please note that the lower facade is consignment note, that is, it closes the lower horizon, which means that you need to retreat from the lower edge of the rack by 16 mm less.

Now we mark the guides themselves. To do this, you need to figure out how the drawers will be located: they should be closer to the bottom edge of the facades, but not protrude beyond their dimensions, the guides on the drawers themselves are strictly below. For greater clarity, you can attach guides to the racks and see how they will look (we focus on our facade marks). I usually retreat from the edge of the facade up 20 mm and draw a perpendicular to the front edge.

On this perpendicular, we set aside 37 mm and prick this point with an awl (this is the center of the second hole on the guide.

We lay it on the marking line so that it can be seen in all holes. We screw a self-tapping screw into the first hole, and on the pencil line (in the center of the hole in the guide) we prick another point. We also wrap a self-tapping screw into it (you can strengthen it with one more, but in this example we will limit ourselves to a couple).

Please note that the front edge of the guide is 2 mm from the edge of the rack.

We repeat this manipulation for all three pairs of guides (that is, for both racks).

In principle, the additive of the sliding system ends here, but we will finish the bedside table to the end.

We assemble the box (we fasten the lower horizon with legs to the confirmations).

We put the back wall into the grooves, (we fasten it with corners), we fasten the upper horizon to the mounting corners (you can use minifixes, which is more difficult, but more accurate).

We set the middle horizon. In principle, the cabinet box is ready.

We install the boxes themselves inside the box. Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the front walls (for). For this, double-sided tape is glued. We mark and fasten on each facade by a handle-bracket. Screws must be used with a countersunk head, or deepen their hats)

It remains to fix the facades themselves on the boxes. I have already described the technology in detail - I will not stop.

In general, as a result of all the manipulations, we got such a simple and neat bedside table in the clinic.

The most popular among furniture makers today are telescopic (ball) guides of full and partial extension, which have a number of advantages: low cost, ease of installation and adjustment, smooth and silent running, load resistance, long service life. Consider how to quickly and correctly install ball guides for drawers.

Ball guide kit consists of two steel symmetrical telescopic skids: left and right, each of which is disassembled into two components, moving relative to each other with the help of metal bearing balls, which ensures reliability and smooth running. The wider base is attached to the sidewalls, and the narrow retractable part is attached to the drawer itself.

Calculation of drawer details.

The assembled drawer without a facade, in width (between the drawer and the side of the product) must have gaps of 13 mm on each side (or the gap is made according to the instructions for a specific ball guide). The depth of the box should be equal to the length of the guide, usually they have a length of 250 to 800 mm in increments of 50 mm. It is also not necessary to leave a gap of at least 10 mm between the back wall of the chest of drawers and the back wall of the drawer. In terms of height, it is usually made based on human needs, the height is usually 80 - 250 mm.

Installation of ball guides.

We spread the ball guides to the stop, pressing the plastic black tongue, pull out the narrow bar.

On the side of the drawer, a line is marked in the center and a narrow retractable bar is screwed on. On the sidewall of the product, the installation line is marked, taking into account the location of the boxes and the installed guide on the box. In the same way, the base of the guide is installed on the other side, after which the box is simply put into place in the product.