Fish without compressor. Aquarium fish - lighting, temperature, oxygen

To provide for your pets comfortable conditions existence, each aquarist buys various aquarium accessories. As you know, aquarium fish without oxygen suffer greatly, their appetite worsens, they grow poorly and can even die from oxygen starvation.

To avoid such problems, aquarists install special devices - compressors that saturate the water with oxygen by spraying air bubbles into it. But there are aquarium fish that do not require oxygen. These are species that are adapted to exist in muddy waters with a small amount of air.

What fish can live without aeration

These fish have a special organ that allows them to absorb oxygen from the surface of the water. It is called the gill labyrinth - therefore, such fish are mainly called labyrinths.

aquarium fish that can live without a compressor are:

• Petushki. They are classified as fighting fish, despite their relatively peaceful nature. They are generally aggressive towards each other. There are frequent fights between males for territory or a female. This is an unpretentious and very beautiful fish, which can often be found at exhibitions.
• Gourami. One of the most famous fish, which has a peaceful character and loves to relax in grottoes. Gourami is divided into several varieties - blue, kissing, honey. They lead an active, diurnal lifestyle.
• Lyalius gets along well with peaceful fish. One of the most attractive of the labyrinth family. This is a shy fish that prefers a schooling lifestyle, and lives only a few years.
• Macropods are considered aggressive fish. They are centenarians with an elongated body that can live with other active species that are similar in size. They cannot be settled with Goldfish.
• Ctenopoma africanus also has a gill labyrinth. It cannot be settled together with guppies and neons, as it belongs to active predators, and is very demanding on the territory.

Aquarium fish living without oxygen require special conditions. Do not block their access to air - make sure that aquarium plants do not cover the surface completely.

In our store - a variety of aquarium fish that do not need oxygen. To get to know them better, we have made a separate description for each species and posted photos. This information will help you make your choice.

LIGHTING AND TEMPERATURE
For many species of fish, the temperature in the aquarium should be 18-25 ° C in winter (it can be even higher in summer), and light is absolutely necessary for their normal life, but it should not be overheated. In summer, daylight hours should be approximately 14-16 hours, in winter - 10-12. If the aquarium is on the window, it is customary to think that there is enough light in it. But this is not the case, and even bright window plants with insufficient lighting slow down their growth or simply die. Therefore, try to always have summer in the aquarium and keep daylight hours at least 14-15 hours.
Light bulbs are best placed on top, covering with reflectors. However, all common aquarium fish, except for haracins, live well in side lighting. Therefore, beginner aquarists can be advised to place the lamp on the side, pressing it against the glass below the water level. If you have two aquariums, clamp the lamp between them. Do not be afraid, the glass will not burst: "accidents" of this kind only happen when the lamp is too high. Select the lamp power based on the calculation of 10-15 W per 1 bucket of water. This calculation is also suitable for those aquariums in which there is no daylight at all. If the lamp is located on top, its power should be increased by 20-25%, and when the lamp (subject to proper insulation) is lowered into water, the power can be half as much. The same applies to incandescent lamps. Daylight and white light tubes are usually placed on top. Successful aquariums with such lighting are rare.
With side lighting, it is usually not necessary to additionally heat the aquarium. But if the temperature in it drops below 18 ° C, put a heating pad. The most simple and reliable heating pads with brine. The more salt you add to the water filling the heating pad, the higher the temperature will be. You need to start with a pinch, and then, if necessary, add more.
If the room is not too cold (temperature above 18 ° C), it is better to turn off the lighting and heating at night. Small gradual fluctuations in temperature (by 4-6 ° C per day) are useful for fish.

"RESIDENTIAL" WATER,
A freshly filled aquarium is very beautiful. But it does not please the eye for long: one or two days will pass, and a slight turbidity will appear, and after another 1 day of turbidity, clouds will appear. This is the reproduction of bacteria, the spores of which come from the air, are introduced with plants. And this is where a novice amateur often makes a mistake: he changes the water, and everything starts again. Meanwhile, if you wait three to five days, the turbidity will disappear. At the same time, the water becomes transparent, slightly yellowish. Experienced aquarists call such water "residential": it already contains the usual aquarium microscopic inhabitants, mainly ciliates, there is a certain amount organic matter, and there are very few bacteria, since the multiplied ciliates destroy their excess.
Yellowish "residential" water can stand in the aquarium for years without any replacement, without losing transparency at all. Such water must be protected: it is the key to the well-being of the entire aquarium. If the reservoir is of sufficient size, there are not too many fish, and there is no excess food in the aquarium, such water does not need to be replaced at all for many months. If the aquarium is overpopulated, you can change part of the water once every 7-10 days, no more than 1/3, cleaning the walls in front of this razor blade, collecting dirt from the bottom with a siphon. "Residential", old water must be preserved. If you change more than half of it, a lot of bacteria reappear in the aquarium, the water becomes cloudy again, you have to establish a normal mode again.

FEEDING FISH
How to save old water, how to ensure that the aquarium is always clean and beautiful without unnecessary labor costs? To do this, first of all, you need to properly feed the fish.
Fish in nature only in certain seasons of the year have food in abundance. But even at this happy time in natural reservoirs there is never such a concentration of food, which is often created in aquariums by novice amateurs. Meanwhile, every extra crustacean, each not eaten right there, in front of your eyes, a worm, and even more so every extra pinch of dry or artificial food, is the beginning of water damage. Therefore, the main, basic rule of a novice amateur should be the following: it is better to underfeed the fish than to overfeed. It is clear that for the normal growth, development and reproduction of fish, like all living organisms, a varied and nutritious diet is required. But it is worth remembering that malnutrition, of course, within reasonable limits, does not harm the fish, while overfeeding is a constant cause of water damage, illness and death of fish. adults and healthy fish normally survive even a hunger strike lasting 15-25 days. During this time, they will clean the aquarium from algae, organic debris, plankton.
A novice amateur should feed the fish once a day, giving as much food as the fish will eat in 10-15 minutes. Excess feed that accidentally enters the aquarium must be removed immediately. Over the years, experience will come to you, and then you can switch to a more rational two- and three-time feeding.
It is necessary to try to give the fish live food: bloodworms, cyclops, daphnia, tubifex, coretra, potter worms. The latter should not be particularly carried away: if you feed the fish with them and only with them, the water deteriorates, and many species cease to multiply. If there is no live food, dry ones are used: dry bloodworm, dry daphnia, dried gammarus. The most nutritious of these foods is gammarus, the worst is dry daphnia. It is useful to add fish oil to the latter (two drops per matchbox of dry daphnia).
Remember that dry food can only be a temporary replacement for live food. Do not give them at night, remove any unconsolidated residues immediately. As feed substitutes, you can use egg yolk (very little - it spoils the water a lot), milk powder, meat and fish meal, the smallest pieces of lean meat, liver, fish, bread, semolina, chopped and scalded dandelion shoots, lettuce, nettle.
Food should be stored in the refrigerator. Live food is kept in jars with a small amount of water, periodically changing it, bloodworm, which is the most versatile food, in a damp cloth.
In an aquarium where the fish do not have enough movement, the choice of food for them should be approached especially responsibly. If the water in the aquarium is slightly cloudy as a result of overfeeding, but the fish do not float up, do not suffocate, it is easiest to stop feeding for two or three days. The fish at this time will not starve: they will eat the remnants of feed, clean the plants from weed algae. As soon as the water is completely clear, you can start feeding. If, after overfeeding, the fish floated to the surface, began to capture the outside air, urgent measures must be taken: clean the bottom with a hose, change a third of the water.

SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEM OF FLOWERING WATER
There is no novice hobbyist who does not complain about microscopic algae. It often happens that in insufficient light, glass and plants are covered with a brown coating of diatoms. When not green, but brown algae appear on glasses, appliances and plants, this indicates that the aquarium is lit very poorly. Brown algae usually appear in winter in aquariums devoid of artificial lighting. In such aquariums, plants also get sick. Their leaves and stems turn pale, turn yellow, become thin, flabby, and begin to rot. It is easy to cure an aquarium from this "disease": it is enough to add light by placing the aquarium in a lighted place, but it is better to install lamps above it.
It is more difficult to get rid of filamentous, green and blue-green algae blooms. Their growth occurs because the aquarium is lit too much, the water often blooms (becomes green, opaque), and the plants and walls are covered with green weed algae.
So, let's consider the problem of flowering in more detail. In summer, with strong aquarium lighting and high water temperatures, it can turn green: This is the result of mass reproduction of microscopic algae, most often green euglena. Sometimes appear in the aquarium in huge quantities also microscopic algae that cause a whitish-green turbidity of the water. They develop in strong aquarium lighting. A green coating of algae on one or two walls, on devices in the water, on plants is usually harmless. As a rule, it is enough to simply clean the glass of the aquarium with a scraper. And so that there is no excess of algae on plants and appliances, fish are allowed into the aquarium, for example, some species of carps that eat them. Temporary shading of the aquarium or, if the artificial lighting is too bright, reducing the power of the lamps also helps.
When the water bloom has not gone too far, it does not do much harm to the fish, unless, of course, these fish have not suddenly entered such water. To get rid of this greening of the water, the aquarium must be completely covered with a cloth that does not let light through, or shade it in any other way. Keep the aquarium in this form should be until the water becomes clear.
The second old, tried and tested method of dealing with water bloom is as follows. A lot of daphnia are allowed into the aquarium: as many as the fish cannot quickly eat. And these crustaceans destroy algae: they feed on them. In just a day, daphnia will make the water crystal clear. It goes without saying that you can only release a lot of daphnia into a non-overpopulated aquarium, because with a lack of oxygen, the crustaceans will die, increasing water damage.
There will be no flowering of water in the aquarium if its wall, on which the rays of the sun fall, is covered with rare gauze or a sheet of thin white paper.
Often the greening of the water is not only due to excessive lighting of the aquarium, but also due to the fact that too much organic debris accumulates on its bottom. If so, you need to remove them first.
The worst enemy of aquariums is blue-green algae. They multiply unusually quickly and suppress the growth and the very life of plants, covering their leaves with a fetid film. It is necessary to deal with these algae in the following way: clean the glass of the aquarium and appliances from them with a scraper, carefully remove the film from the leaves of the plants with your fingers and use a hose to remove the dirt accumulated during cleaning from the bottom of the aquarium. In addition, you should loosen the soil and put algae-eating fish into the aquarium. They need to be fed in moderation.
In addition to blue-green and other algae, filamentous algae often multiply on the illuminated walls of aquariums and on the leaves of plants. If there are a lot of them, they can become entangled and die. small fish. With filamentous algae, the following methods of struggle are possible: reduce the amount of light falling on the aquarium, settle in it as many coil snails as possible, put fish into it that willingly eat filaments. In a warm water aquarium, these algae greedily eat mollies, eat them and other viviparous fish, though not with such an appetite. In a cold-water aquarium, the threadworm is excellently destroyed by rudd and mustard. Many types of fish can be trained to eat threadbaits, but on condition that there are several mollies in the aquarium. Imitating them, fish begin to eat algae.
It is also useful to know about the “mystery of the brass coin”. Some amateurs purify water with silver, but they don’t really grow any plants, and fish, perhaps, this metal has a negative effect. But where silver does not help, a brass coin is an excellent help! In order to prevent algae weeds, experienced hobbyists have been using this method for several decades. You should not think that as soon as you throw a brass penny into the aquarium, the algae will immediately disappear. Brass acts slowly, and it usually takes a month to clean the aquarium. One five-kopeck coin in the absence of a water change is enough for an aquarium with a volume of three buckets. Brass does not have a depressing effect on all types of microscopic algae: some of them, settling on the walls, "you can't buy for a penny."

OXYGEN STARVATION
If, instead of swimming back and forth as they should, your pets stick up endlessly at the top and greedily try to swallow air, they are not getting enough oxygen. This disease is called oxygen starvation, or anoxia. When fish live for a long time in oxygen-poor water, they eat poorly, grow slowly, their reproductive organs change greatly, and they are no longer able to prolong their kind. If the fish can still lay their eggs, this egg dies or larvae hatch from it, fry grow up, which also die. And if the fry remain alive, they grow slowly, despite the fact that they are very well fed.
When fish are constantly deprived of oxygen, they can eventually die from suffocation - from asphyxiation.
If the fish begin to suffocate, you need to replace part of the water in the aquarium and install an aerator - a device with which the water is blown with a finely sprayed stream of air, and thus saturate it with oxygen. In addition, with a sharp oxygen deficiency, a quick effect is obtained by adding a 15% hydrogen peroxide solution (1 drop of concentrated hydrogen peroxide per 2 liters of water).
In order for the fish to stop experiencing a lack of oxygen, there must be plants in the aquarium: after all, it is they who produce it. And since it is formed in the leaves of algae only in the light, it is necessary to place electric lamps above the surface of the water, and in winter the daylight hours should last 10-12 hours, in summer - 15 hours. If there are plants in the aquarium, but they have grown a lot, this is also bad. Some of them should be removed, as at night they consume a lot of oxygen.
In addition, you can not give the fish a lot of food. All parts of plants not eaten by them and dead parts of plants must be removed from the aquarium every day: the reproduction of organic residues is accompanied by oxygen consumption.
The more inhabitants in the aquarium, the more oxygen they need. Therefore, excess fish and other inhabitants, especially mollusks, must be transplanted into another aquarium. But how many extra fish? It is difficult to give an exact answer, since a lot depends on the volume and shape of the aquarium, on whether it has an aerator, on the type of fish, their size and biological features. And yet it is possible to determine how many fish approximately should live in an aquarium. If the capacity of the aquarium is from 40 to 50 liters and the water in it is not aerated, then for each fish up to 5 cm long, 2 liters of water are needed, for fish whose length is from 8 to 10 cm - 3-4 liters, and for fish that are more than 12 cm, - 8-10 liters of water.

Advice:
To understand what kind of fish you should get, you need to find out how many of them can accommodate

What fish can live without oxygen and a filter. With an open aquarium?

1. almost any, the main condition is a non-overpopulated aquarium, i.e. the volume of aqua must be able to provide life support
   number of planted fish ....)))
2. Labyrinths, or crawlers (lat. Anabantoidei, obsolete name Labyrinthici), a suborder of perch-like fish that have a labyrinth organ that allows fish to additionally breathe atmospheric oxygen. Predominantly freshwater fish with a discontinuous African-Asian distribution; absent in Madagascar. They have a wide variety of morphological and behavioral traits.
   Gourami, macropods, swordtails, laliuses and many other famous aquarium fish.

   do not forget about plants and snails (they are part of natural water purification)

3. Without oxygen - none of the living. And without a filter - guppies, gourami, I also had neons and swordtails.
4. labyrinth
5. Labyrinth. But the water needs to be changed frequently.
6. Any. The main thing is that there is no relocation, the calculation is 3 liters per fish, guppies do not count, labyrinths will take less. Rinse the live food, the water will be clean; the filter is not needed. In water or a silver spoon or a coin. Greetings from St. Petersburg.
7. roosters. there is a very beautiful color
8. goupeshki
9. plastic
10. gourami and all sorts of macropods there
11. Plastic, or desktop!
12. If you want guppies then plant the boys. If you plant a boy and a girl, then the girl (female) will fertilize, and the fry need oxygen. BUT do not forget about plants, they enrich with oxygen.
13. It is undesirable to keep fish without a filter, because waste and food decomposing at the bottom will spoil the water and it will have to be small aquarium change often, with the help of a filter this problem will be solved, and labyrinth fish live without oxygen: Petushki, Gourami, Lyalius
14. mollies
15. I have gupeshki live and breed and not the first year
16. Without oxygen in our area - hardly any. Water has to be heated anyway, and so that warm water does not collect at the top of the aquarium, air is needed to mix the water. Therefore, macropods and cardinals, even in an aquarium completely overgrown with grass, where there is enough oxygen, in winter have to turn on the compressor simultaneously with the heater.
17. All fish are aerobic, no one can live without oxygen. Without aeration is another matter, the question of the volume of the aquarium. If the aquarium is large - any. In a minimum volume, without aeration, labyrinths, lungfish, climbing perches, jumpers, many catfish can live - they are all able to breathe the air of the atmosphere. If you put a heating pad on the bottom along the back wall, there will be no problems with water stratification.
18. we have had gold, picilia, catfish, guppies and telescopes for a very long time
19. Labyrinths: cockerel, gourami, macropod, lalius

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