Bath Drains of water with their own hands. Is it necessary to drain in the steam

Today, the baths are built not only in the villages, but also at the cottages, in cottage villages. However, before starting construction, it is necessary to determine how to make a drop of water from the bath. Since time immemorial, the plums was carried out directly under the structure, where he went into the ground. But then there was no such density of settlement and special antisanitary standards, with which today is not considered not only stupid, but also unsafe.

In order to avoid unnecessary difficulties with the fear of its plot or disputes with SanEpidadzor, we will look at how water will be given out of it, with the lowest costs and maximum comfort for others.

Water removal methods

So how can the water drainage from the bath can be organized?

The following options can be considered the most popular and widely used:

• drain of water directly under the bath;
• distribution into general sewers;
• arrangement on;
• uniform water distribution over the site using drainage pipes.

Council. Wonder how to make a draining of water in the bath, you need to take place at the planning stage, and if you decide to get moisture outside the construction (in septic tank, in the sewer), then it is necessary to consider when bookmarkting the foundation.
The belt base is laid by the sleeves through which the tap tubes will be passed.

Drain under the foundation

The method with the drain pit is used in the event that in the pair you are not very often in the amount of no more than 1-3 people. In this case, directly under the floor of the used water.

For better absorption, the walls are not faced with solid masonry, but in a checker, which will allow moisture to leave not only through the pits, but also to the parties. Unfortunately, this method has a significant drawback: in winter, water can climb, and damage the foundation.

Use of central sewage

If there is an opportunity to cut the pipe into centralized sewage on the site or next to it, this option is most preferable. You only need to bring it or connect to the sewer tube, and the question of how to organize water removal more for you will never be disturbed.

But if there is no sewage pipe next to your site, you will have to solve this problem yourself, the benefit that it is not difficult to make it yourself even alone.

Septic and filtering

This water drain system in the bath and its purification is deservedly considered the most expensive, but it allows not only to organize the drain of water in the bath, but also use this water in agricultural purposes.

To do this, you need to equip septicities in which the water is cleared, and after the pipe enters the collector, from where it is used for irrigation. But the lack of such a system is its price, which includes a regular replacement of filters and the subtle of microorganisms that take the purification process.

Drain Yama

This is the most used method for removing not only the water used, but also sewage drains from a private house. Make it is not at all difficult and the next instruction will tell how to do it right.

Choosing a place and arrangement of pit

According to the rules and standards of the location of the cesspool, it should be no closer than 12 meters from the residential premises. This rule should be taken as a basis and with the organization of moisture removal from the oil. Choosing the type of pits, you must consider whether you will clean it regularly, or provide absorption of moisture into the ground. The second option is preferable in view of what requires less costs not only during construction, but also during operation.

However, you must take into account that a pit without a bottom can only be built under the condition of the absence of surface groundwater and, subject to the removal of no more than 1 cubic meter of water per day.

Otherwise, the bottom and the walls of the cesspool need to be completely isolated from the soil. This is achieved by the laid out of the walls of the brick and concreting bottom of the bottom of the kittle.

Since the concepts of the bath and draining water are inseparable, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the future waste.

The most optimal dimensions are:

• length not less than 1.5 m and no more than 3m;
• width from 2m to 3m;
• depth of 1.5m to 3m.

Such dimensions will provide you with the sufficient volume of facilities for the trouble-free functioning of your bath, even with frequent visiting.

Operating procedure

1. You need to start with the digging of the pit. It can be done manually, but if it is possible to attract an excavator, be sure to use this.

Tip: Earthwork Works The most difficult type of work, and you will soon begin to understand this, deciding on our own to take the shovel.
With the help of the excavator, you for a small fee, after half an hour, you will have the necessary volume on your site.

1. Walls and bottom pit need to align. This can be done manually, trimming with a bayonet shovel. Such work will not require the high cost of strength and time.
2. Put the bottom of the pits with gravel mixed with sand, it will slightly improve the absorption of moisture and prevents the penetration of clay and land into the pit.
3. Now you can proceed to the lays down of the walls with bricks. The masonry is made in a checker, from the bottom and to the very top.

1. The last step is the overlap of concrete, with a hole with a diameter of 30-50 cm for cleaning and intake sleeves.
2. Now you will only lend the sewage pipes by which water outflow from the bath will be carried out.

The lining brick is only clay and well-burned, it is not recommended to use silicate or pressed unknown briquettes.

Conclusion

The choice of technology that will ensure the draining of water in the bath depends not only on your financial capabilities, but also from how often the oil has been used at the same time. To help you will be the video in this article.

In the 21st century, I want comfort, so water to carry water buckets, or about making cold pouring board floors in a steam room and the washing speech did not even go. So how is it more efficient to organize the delivery of water into the bath, well, and wastewater removal, of course? In the same article, we will focus on the organization of ventilation steam room.

Water supply and wastewater removal from the bath.

It so happened that we solved all this task in several stages ... and years - from 2012 to 2014. It was originally planned that the bath would be a separate pump (or pumping station) in the well and it will serve water autonomously from home. Later, when we mounted the pump and the entire water supply system for the house, I grew up about the extra pump for the bath, to which my plumbers answered wisely - why? After all, there is a pump in a well and a pressure sensor in the house, plus a system of receivers that support pressure. Why "produce" duplicate systems? It's easier to make a branch to the bath right in the well and then all questions will be solved. I really liked the idea and a little later we have implemented it (see the photo below).

Photo of pipe wiring in the well.

Photo of pressure sensor in the house.

In the Ban itself initially, henskimi (in 2012 - more about the construction of our beautiful furnace is told here ...) The contour of the heating of hot water was made, which included a pipe passing through the furnace firek, the tank to 160 liters and some elements of the reinforcement - see the photo link above . Already then, at my request, an additional hole was made in the tank and for emergency drain of water when filling the tank.

Photo input pipes in the stove and inside the furnace.

Later, in the summer of 2013, when we already had experience in organizing a boiler house in the house, I asked Plumbers to "make it also convenient and beautifully" the water supply system is now in the bath. Vyacheslav, as always turned out to be at the height and I will gladly present the results of his work.

As the water zone now looks like shown in the photo below. Here, in the insertion on the right, the basic elements of the system are shown in close-up.

Organization of water supply bath - the final picture. In the cutting on the right - an enlarged image of the zone under the tank.

The design is assembled on crimp nickel steel pipes - this is perhaps the most reliable and beautiful version of the reinforcement today. In the house we used a similar, but with copper pipes, here a stainless steel tank asked another color to all this assembly.

So, to the right of the floor comes out the pipe of cold water. It enters the tee, which is inserted with a heating electrical cable. Now it is mostly lost (only for emergency situations), but a year ago we believed that the floor would be on lags (that is, there will be a cold subfield), and the bath will not constantly sleep.

Of the design features, I will note the brass cranes - they successfully fit into the style of the Russian bath. And also a thin copper tube withdrawing water from the tank when it overflow. With her, water is poured into the ladder, and not on the head.

By the way, in the trapham (so called drain holes in the floor). Initially in 2013, we planned to make something like a small sink with sinks in the tank area, which is why an additional second ladder was placed there. The main ladder was placed almost in the center of the washer. It can be seen in the knocking on the next photo - here we also planned to use wooden lags for the organization of the floor.

Places of location of gangways in the washing. The photo was made before dismantling wooden lag. One ladder is placed under the taps of the tank, and the second (in the insertion in the photo on the left) - in the center of the washer.

Later, when the tile was stacked, we decided to give up this side, because it was constantly stumbled. Now, of course, we would not make this second ladder in the washing.

On the other hand, when a year ago (in the 2013th), we designed the sewage system with glory, I thought that the ladder was not needed in the pair. So stoves said - as the stove is very powerful and dries everything (so it turned out). But then, having read reviews on the forums, talking to the builders - we decided that "worse will not be worse." The question just got up, where to remove the drain from this third ladder? Since until the very last moment (already in 2014), the question was not resolved, at what level to make the floor (about it more here ...) I decided not to contact the drilling of the reinforced concrete foundation, but to make a separate "barrel" for a pair of pair Moreover, the volume of water here will be minimal.

Completing the theme of the traps should be noted the next important point. Frames are ordinary (i.e. wet) and "dry". Dry ladders (Correct: "Draps with a dry shutter") allow you to prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewerage even if all the water evaporates in the sump.

Outwardly and the usual, and dry dangle look the same (see the previous photo) - the nuance is hidden in their inset-shutter (see the following photo). If you are planned warm floors in the washingI definitely advise you to immediately buy precisely dry ladders. For a steam room, a dry ladder selection is also definite, regardless of the heating of the floors, since the furnace dries moisture in a stern due to the total high temperature.

Two options for shutters in trap (dry and usual) with two angles. Dry has two "petals" (sash) which under the force of gravity overlap the air flow from the sewage if water evaporates in the stern.

Keep in mind that the cost of such a ladder is high enough (about 2 thousand rubles), and it will not be possible to purchase only the dry shutter.

Well, it's time to move to the description of the external work carried out outside the walls of the bath. The following photo shows how in 2013 a trench "in full growth" was dug for water supply. Please note that the entrance to the well is organized with a small piece of sewer pipe, it will protect the water supply pipe with the movement of the soil. The wiring inside the well was already shown in the photo at the beginning of the article.

The process of summing up water from the well (2013).

Everything turned out to be more difficult with the sewer. As noted above, we had to make two tanks for sludge and drainage drainage. One, a large tank (for 160 liters), for washing in 2013 and small (by 60 liters) - for the steam room in 2014.

Note immediately - we did not plan to order organization in the bath! That is why we did not use a full septic tank. When designing a bath, we did not schedule a separate room for the toilet, because they did not plan to roll the bath year-round. Now this problem is solved with the help of the relay (see the photo below) and the curtains in the tambour.

In the photo: on the right - a look like an alternative to the bathroom in the bath. On the right - the use of specialized moisture resistant (withstands the rain) of sockets and a switch to control the water supply from the well. The main pump is connected to the lower outlet, which is controlled by the pressure sensor located in the house. The second pump is connected to the medium outlet, it is controlled by the shown switch (very convenient). Any consumers (trimmer, etc.) can be connected to the top outlet. The block has a small visor, everything is successfully operated for more than 3 years.

The organization of the sewage for the bath We combined with the alteration of sewage to the house, fully converted the scattering field for homemade "septic". This important topic requires a separate article, and we plan to prepare it in the future.

Now we will tell only about the organization of a sump for a bath. We did not use the "folk remedies" such as buried automotive tires, but decided to make more and more seriously. As I already understood at this point - the most important in such a sump is the correct organization of the filtering system. Here it is necessary to use at least two layers of geotextile and a large mass of rubble. Otherwise, the system will not last long and sculpts sand or land.

The entire work algorithm is shown on the cycle of the following photos.

Organization of sump for wastewater from washing. A barrel of 160 liters, a large amount of rubble and two layers of geotextile - this is the key to success.

So, at first there was a trunk of a trench for the sewer tube with a small constant bodice bias. The bias must be permanent so that water is not stored and not very big, so as not to "tear" the waterproofing in the trap. Further, in the appointed place there is a pit under the barrel, where water from the sewer pipe will come. The depth of the pit must take into account the height of the barrel, 40-50 cm of the rubble layer under the barrel and 20-50 cm of the Earth above the barrel.

Distributed pit "we are wearing" geotextile (sold in construction stores) - see the first photo in collage above. To secure geotextiles, it is convenient to use "P"-shaped pieces of knitting wire. Geotextile will prevent the penetration of sand and land inside rubble. Next, on the bottom, we embarked 40-50 cm rubble. In parallel, we prepare a barrel. In it, on the side walls, drill a lot of holes (drill 15-25 mm), plus already at the place cut out the inlet for the sewer pipe.

Wrap a barrel geotextile that the sand and small stones did not get inside the barrel. I exhibit barrel in terms of level and fall asleep all the remaining space of rubble. On top of the rubble also stacked geotextiles. It turned out a simple and reliable design. Further, the barrel is covered with sand and earth.

On the following frames, it is possible to see the individual stages of the water supply process described above and the sewer organization from the washing, we will remind all this was done in 2013.

As it was mentioned earlier, in 2014 we still decided to make the ladder and draining the water from the steam room. We did not have practical experience in the operation of the bath, so we could not be convinced that all moisture in the steam room would be evaporated with a brick stove.

Having read on the forums about the fact that when a big campaign is batted, then the water is embarked in the steam room, which is easier to see the ladder than to suffer with mop and rags. In general, we decided that the draining of the steam room would not hurt, but how to organize it? Introducing it in the system of sewer pipes made a year earlier was not easy. At a minimum, it was necessary to drill, or the crown of a cut (at best), or 40 cm of the tape of reinforced concrete.

I decided to go on the "path of smaller resistance" and "stupidly" to organize another sump. The organization of this system is described below. A small plastic container (about 60 liters) was acquired - also strong enough so that it was not laughed under the pressure of the soil, even after the holes are drilled in it.

Since we have not bought crushed stone specifically, we decided to go on the old Finnov technology, which laid their scattering fields without rubble, but small and medium stones. We also had this "good" on the site, I also asked the guys to rinse these stones and we were postponed by our barrel.

Creating a small sump with a filtering field for a drain with a steam room. Instead of rubble - small stones, but without geotextile it is not necessary to do again.

Of course, the pit herself, and the canister were wrapped with geotextiles. The only thing we carried the place of blocking a barrel on a meter with externally from the foundation so that later, if necessary, it was possible to get access to it without affecting the cabin around the bath.

On the left - the barrel is covered with large stones, and on the right - the exit of the sewage pipe indoor pair.

Ventilation in the steam room: whether it needs in general and what should she be.

The issue of organizing ventilation in a steam room is very "dark" and I still have not found an unequivocal response on it. For the first time we learned about this from our Tiler Roman, who in 2012 put tiles in the house. He then said that in order to make a warm lower zone in the sauna, the Finns make special ventilation channels that take air from the floor in the sauna and bring it to another room or outside. At the same time, when we are "a couple of" to the stove, hot air due to pressure huses cold from the sauna through this channel.

I read about similar systems later on our forums, but unambiguous recommendations, how to correctly organize it did not find it. Therefore, I decided to rely on my engineering flair and knowledge in physics.

So in this form, we got our vantkane from stainless steel. A long vertical fragment of the pipe shared into two parts, and instead of two tips we got three.

The most difficult turned out to find such ventkanals. After all, the traditional plastic here is impossible to use - high temperatures, harmful discharge, etc. Folk crafts make such designs themselves, wrapping the aluminum foil frame from the bar. I did not want to "have fun" so.

I tried to find in St. Petersburg those who sell ready-made metal ventilation channels, but did not find those. But somehow I painted me, but what if you try to order the manufacture of such a channel. He began to search for firms and found not far from my work on Vasilyevsky Island.

The guys are engaged in the manufacture of vents of large sections and any other thin-walled elements, they have the most modern equipment and they "glued me" my order in a couple of hours. The most difficult was paid by non-cash with these unfortunate 500 rubles. Well, despite the long-term discussions and the correspondence on which the ends should be bent, the guys still did not do it, but then they were corrected and the third tip with the desired bend did.

The design was made of collapsible, so I was able to lead it by car.

Ventkanal is installed on the wall, it displays air from the level of the pair of the field and displays under the roof. On the insertion on the right shows the final appearance already covered with a wagon pair.

On the previous photo, the channel installed on the wall is shown, and on the insertion - what the channel input looks like on the sheathed wall of the canal. To fully, I can't justify myself - I can not yet - you need to check his work in the winter, but in general I do not regret it, because By logic, it must perform its functions. Plus it allows you to organize the ventilation of the room by steam room. The fact that the air in it is always enough fresh without ventilation - we have already been convinced of this.

Water supply and sewage in the bath, ventilation in steam room - ideas and solutions

Interesting approaches to the organization of water supply and diverting from a bath. Why do you need ventilation in a steam room and how to organize it

Bath, in which water procedures are not provided - not full. It is necessary to at least be able to wash off the lifting discharges that are inevitably formed in the process of active body warming, which actually causes a hike into it.

In this case, the presence of water supply is not at all necessary. You can set a periodically filled container for it, you can take with you in a bucket or a mustache. But the draining in the bath, with any method of using water, is required.

What are the plums and how to make drain in the bath do it yourself, so that there is no odor - the subject of consideration of our step by step leadership.

Determine the place of plum (pit or septic)

As a rule, there are not so much effluent out of the bath, and they do not contain fecal masses, large fatty sediments and everything else that can contain house sewage. Of course, if it is provided, then the baths are better to take it into it.

And if there is no one, then the plums from the bath can be performed in a primitive drain pit, consisting of a barrel without a bottom installed on a drainage pillow from the layers of sand and a large rubble - 10-15 cm each, and a closed small concrete slab. Large paving slabs, a thick sheet of metal and so on can be used.

A drainage can also be made, similar to what is carried out from point.

To do this, abroad of the bath wall, at a distance of at least 1.5 m from it, the one and a half is laid - the two-meter portion of the perforated pipe in the drainage pillow, as described in one of the sections of the article on the same link.

You can take a special pipe for drainage systems, and you can chop down holes in asbestos-cement. It is important that they are in diameter less than the gravel snowing fraction around it.

You can also arrange a point drainage well under the bundle of the bath. If, in your bath, apart from the two - three ears of water poured into the steamroom, the bathroom, shower, kitchen area, will need to be organized.

The slope of the outlet drain pipe from the bath should be done the same as for sewage systems: 2-3 °. And just, if its diameter is at least 110 mm, then it does not need to be insulated, and if less - necessarily.

Selection of floors: structural features of torrential floors in the bath

There is another way to remove water from a bath when there is no drain. Just under the bath built on the base foundation, a solid drainage pillow is arranged, which makes the drains of it. But it is rather a purely summer version, due to the fact that the floor in such a bath cannot be insulated, and its wooden coating is made with gaps 3 - 5 mm, through which water is poured out.

But such drainage is almost never found. More often, heavy floors in the bath are performed according to the scheme, with the water receiver located outside the design.

These floors are called flowing. In this case, such a technical solution is mainly applied:

And here are also several options. Your choice depends on what the floor in the bath is: warm or cold, wooden or concrete, on which foundation it is built by the TP. Along with the above scheme, others are applied.

Similarly, it is often suited to drain in the bath, erected on the screw piles.

Of course, concrete slopes with such a drainage device are made after waterproofing the bottom board of the floor of the floor of the floor by the steamed geomembrane or tolstoy (at least 200 μm) polyethylene film. The last option is worse, because Alkaline cement medium leads to its gradual destruction.

How to make a draining in the bath with your own hands so that there is no smell?

For this, special roads or siphons are used if there is a place in the floor design.

Water shutter provided for in them does not smell penetrate the room.

Also from the system can be removed ventilating riser, leaving on the roof or in an attic room.

Water in them is going through organized slopes. And the biases are performed regardless of which type of coating applies: a wooden, concrete or a ceramic tile is laid on it.

Wooden solid tipped floors in the baths are more often performed from oak, teak, larch, sometimes made of resamping pine in the crate.

More often these floors are made in a warmed version, especially for frame houses.

As a heater, in this case, we recommend using polystyrene foam, which, even completely immersed in water, per day absorbs its no more than 1%, which cannot be said about any of the types of cotton insulation. But in this case, the waterproofing should not be neglected. And it is better to apply a dense geomembrane for it, paved on the junctions laid with a launch of a wall at least 80 - 100 mm.

Laying drain pipe

The entrance to the drain highway laid in the ground is better to produce through a corrugated pipe, which compensate for the winter rise of the soil due to the forces of frosty powder, the integrity of the system will not break.

If you build a bath on a belt foundation, then the yield of the drain pipe and the location of its passage through the inner tapes should be foreseen during its fill, calculating the slopes, and then having laid it into it immediately.

If the thickness of the floor platform allows you to comply with the necessary slopes, the drain pipe can be paved inside its design. Cold bridges in this case will not arise.

Floating foundations performed in the form of a solid monolithic plate, a plum system from the baths are mounted before their fill.

At the same time, if the finishing floor covering is performed from the tile, then the necessary slopes are observed when it is styling due to changes in the thickness of the adhesive composition, to which it stacked.

And on large areas before laying the tile, cement screed for lighthouses is pre-served. If a wooden pouring floor is placed on a concrete base, it is also performed, and in front of the trapka it provides a removable board for servicing the device.

The same concrete bowl under such a floor is desirable to hydroize the bituminous primer or the composition similar to it.

If in the bath, and sometimes in the steam room itself, they make a shower, it is desirable to install a wider center for taking water.

And the recommendations for its installation are no different from the previous ones. It remains to add that if the trap or siphon is mounted in the finished concrete base, it is better to be reduced by a special polymerized waterproof cement mixture, pre-trusted the connection place with the rest of the primer of deep penetration.

Dear readers, if you have any questions, ask them using the form below. We will be happy to communicate with you;)

Probably, the overwhelming majority of owners of country sites and country private houses do not represent their own lives without their own, since such a structure is an integral part of the ancient Russian traditions. The bath is because not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home "profilatement", working for the restoration of the forces and health of the hosts, to the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular, all the necessary communications must be produced in all the rules.

One of the traditionally problem components of the bath system is the utilization of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its removal and the place of collection. Discount contaminated, not past cleaning the drains on the ground or in natural reservoirs is strictly prohibited, and this approach will inevitably lead to penalties from supervisory environmental authorities. Therefore, in the absence of centralized sewage (as it happens most often), a special pit of a cumulative or drainage action is created for these purposes. And so that the drain pit for the bath function is effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the work on arrangement - adhere to the recommendations of experienced masters.

Main types of drain pits

The arrangement of any drain pit is a rather time-consuming process, since the kitty should have, most likely dig a manually. At the same time, such a hydraulic structure does not differ in the majority of the design, so it will be able to build and equip any owner of the site independently, not even attracting helpers, of course, if there is enough forces for earthmoving work.

Drain pits can be divided into three main types - this is a hermetic container, a yam with drainage ability, and consisting of several cameras.

To begin with, we will understand that it is in principle each of the varieties.

• The hermetic drain pit is most often equipped in the construction sites with shallow binding soil aquifers. It is more often called cesspool, that is, requiring periodic emptying from the gathered volumes of dirty water.

For its construction, dripped, in which the container is installed, which has a sufficiently large volume. In it, wastewater will be gathered. As the container is filling up to a certain critical mark, the waste is pumped out the assessing machine.

This option is environmentally friendly, since there are no contaminants and chemical detergents into the soil and soil waters, which are capable of negatively affecting the state of fertile soil on the site, as well as to have a negative impact on high groundwater strokes. However, this option is no convenience and economy, as it will have to constantly monitor the level of filling of the capacity and often cause specialized vehicles, and such services are not suiced.

Prices for Septika

• In the drainage drain pit is not created hermetically closed bottom. It is used as a bulk layer from the filtering building material - most often the crushed stone or gravel is selected for this purpose.

In addition, it is often in the walls of the drainage pit on a certain height, the holes are also done through which the water will be absorbed into the ground. This option is great for the bath and is perhaps the most simple in construction, however, if this allows the features of the soil on the site.

• Septic is a whole system consisting of two or more cameras having a different purpose.

In any of the options, the first chamber most often has a hermetic design and serves to collect, primary filtering and waste cleaning - solid components are settled to the bottom, and the liquid is lighted, the cycle of biological purification through the action of aerobic microorganisms. This container is associated with a second chamber of a special overflow tube - the clarified liquid waste flows into the next compartment, which is already organized according to the principle of the drainage well. Water passes through drainage, finished and absorbed into the ground.

If a septic tank is planned from three tanks, then the drainage makes the third chamber. The second serves for the final settlement of the suspension, deeper water purification for the set of anaerobic microorganisms. And already from here is overflowing the purified liquid into the drainage well.

Septic tank is most often equipped in the case when it is supposed to collect the entire considerable volume of liquid waste from both a residential building and from the bath.

What is important to know about the design and rules of equipment septic?

Septic is already a rather complex engineering structure, the creation of which should be subordinate to certain rules. Often the owners of houses prefer the installation of the finished system of factory production. What are the rules for the arrangement of such a sewage treatment plant, and what to pay special attention to - read in a special publication of our portal.

Materials for the construction of a drain pit for a bath

Different materials can be used for the construction of drinned yam drainage type. Their choice directly depends on the estimated volume of drain, the financial capabilities of the owners of the site and the convenience of construction.

Drain pit from barrels

To create this water removal system, metal or plastic barrels of different volume are used. However, this drain can be equipped in different ways:

• First option. On the bottom of the dug-up pit, filled with a drainage material on a 300 ÷ 400 mm thick - rubble or large gravel, after the coupling, a barrel with perforated walls and cut bottom is installed. It takes into account that there should be space between the walls of the barrel and the pitual, which is not less than 100 mm, which is also filled with drainage filling.

A tube is supplied to the barrel at the required angle of the skate, through which the water used will be separated from the bath. These drains gradually, through the holes in the walls and through the bottom part will be seamless to the drainage layer, clean, and then soak into the surrounding ground. In some cases, the drainage material is filled with not only the free space of the pit, but even the barrel itself, that is, the water will come immediately into the drainage layers, and then into the ground. Thus, the barrel will never be filled.

It is necessary to correctly understand that such a scheme is not suitable for collecting other types of wastewater from a residential building. For the bath, which is used for its intended one or twice a week, such a pit becomes one of the most optimal options.

• Second option. In this method of arrangement, the pit uses two barrels, installed at different levels - one above another by about 200 mm. They are interconnected at the top of the pipe for overflow. The water from the bath enters the first upper capacity, it settles the soap precipitate and solid suspension, and when it is filling, the water is overflowing into the second barrel, to which one or two long drainage pipes with perforated walls are attached.

The tap tubes from the second tank are stacked into drainage trenches with gravel or rubble filling, for which water purified from chemical precipitation will be distributed, moisturizing soil. Teres from above are covered with a layer of fertile soil, about 500 mm and can be planted with decorative shrubs that will constantly get watering. Thus, two problems are solved at once - removal of water from the bath and irrigation of plants on the site.

This embodiment of the drain pit will be discussed in detail below.

Brick drain pit

The arrangement of the walls of the drain pit can be made with the help of a brick, which is laid out with the lumens - through them and is carried out with a leading of water into a drainage backbone and further into the ground. The difference between this pit from the first embodiment made from the barrel differs only by the material, and the principle of operation is preserved the same. The gap between the ground and brick walls is covered with a drainage layer, which will clean the water and distribute it throughout the pit, diverting into the ground.

The pit made of brick is more durable and is designed for a larger amount of water. Moreover, if you dig the pitifully deep enough, and the bottom and lower part of the walls are tested with hermetic, then this design can well be used for draining other waste, but in this case the pit will have to be periodically cleaned.

To improve this version of the drain pit, it is not necessary to use a new brick - it is quite suitable for the material that is in use.

Prices for metal barrels

metal barrels

Decte's drainage pitfall

If there are financial and technical capabilities, the drainage pit can be built from concrete perforated rings, which are installed in the prepared pita. After installing the rings at the bottom of such a well, a drainage folding is arranged.

In this embodiment, the entire space between the walls, as in the previous cases, is also falling asleep with drainage material, so the pit, subject to use it only for bath needs, will never be filled with water. In the same case when the recovery is enough, and the bottom of the well cemented, then such a pit is suitable not only for the bath, but also for the common one. True, it will require additional calculations, assess the absorbent properties of adjacent soils and the location of aquifer.

Pit from old car tires

A drainage pit, made of unnecessary automotive tires, can only be used for liquid waste, so it is impossible to be better suitable for collecting periodically increasing water from the bath.

Tires are installed in different ways: in some cases the holes are cut in their side walls, in others - a small gap is provided between the skates, in the third - the outer walls are almost completely cut off, but the principle of operation of the drainage pit remains the same.

This version of the water removal from the bath can be called the most popular, as it is easy to arrange, is available at a price (the tires are easy to find at all the task) and is practical in operation.

In the diagram, figures are indicated:

1 - crushed stone or gravel of a large fraction - a drainage folding, a layer of 250 ÷ 300 mm thick.

2 - old car tires.

3 - Drain pipe from the bath (there may be two of them)

4 - crossbars for laying the lid.

5 - lid or hatch.

Around the stacks of the wheels, and sometimes inside the resulting well, a refusion of a drainage pillow is made, which allows you to delay and clean the water coming from the bath. With good drainage ability of the soil and periodic use of the bathhouse, the pit never overfits.

It should be noted that other materials that are able to endure exposure to high humidity are suitable for building a drain bath.

How to independently equip a drain pit for a bath

Survey of the soil on the site of the planned drain pit

In order for the power system from the bath to be effective, it is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site at an exemplary depth of the planned pit. To do this, trench or trial pit is digging. So that the bath can be used in winter, the depth should be lower than the level of the fruit of the soil. Information about the soil freezing in a particular area is easy to find on the Internet, or you can consult with the owners of neighboring sites that have long been using systems such a drain sewage.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Sands, suesy, including with stony inclusions, have good drainage abilities.

But dense clay layers can deliver problems. With high humidity, they are drinking well water, swell, and become practically waterproof, with drying - compress. In addition, they are strongly susceptible to frosty swelling. These qualities of such soils are also unfavorable for bookmarks, and when laying pipes on trenches, as they can lead to deformations and damage to themselves and other elements of the system.

Build a drainage pit in such a soil, if it applies to a large depth - almost meaningless occupation. Well, if you have to lay the pipe to the drainage pit, reaching the depth of the soil with a high absorbent ability, then the bottom of the trench must be fastened with a sandy pillow with a thickness of 100 ÷ 120 mm, which will prevent the rigid effect of soil oscillations on the elements of the drain system.

It is also important and the level of groundwater occurs (AGB), since it will also directly depend on the degree of absorption of water incoming to the drain pit. So, between the bottom of the pit and the location of the steady aquifer should be a distance of about 1000 mm. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, then the polluted water will be bad to go into the drainage, and such a well will turn into a malware well, as it will be constantly filled. In this case, as with clay soils, the variant of the drainage pit is not suitable. You will have to install or install a sealed container that requires periodic emptying, or organize a removal of water to special surface filtering fields.

By choosing a material for the facilities of the pit, it is necessary to decide yet with several important moments of its arrangement, on which the efficiency of the system, environmental safety, both the site and its inhabitants depends.

First of all, it will be necessary to decide on the place where the pit will be located.

• Frequently quite often the owners have a drainage pit directly under the structure, but it becomes possible only if:

- The pit is equipped before the construction of the most;

- the structure rises above the ground surface on a column or pile foundation, which will need to be well insulated;

- under the bath construction there should be good ventilation;

- The sewer pipe connecting the drain and pit will require effective thermal insulation.

• If the pit is located separately, away from the bath, then it is necessary to envisage that it is in the desired distance from the sources of drinking water, natural reservoirs, residential and economic buildings, trees, the boundaries of the site and the road passing around him. The necessary standards are shown in the Scheme below:

• The pit should be located below the level of the drain hole in the floor of the bath, at least 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b200 mm, and the recommended removal from the bath construction is 3 ÷ 5 meters.

• If the drain pit has to be placed close enough to the structure of the bath, then:

- Poam's bottom should have a bias of 20 ÷ 25 degrees, draining water from the walls of the structure;

- perforation in the walls of barrels, concrete rings or tires, you need to do from the other side that will be further from the walls of the bath;

• It is very important to observe the correct slope of the sewer pipe so that the dirty water is not stood inside the channel, and immediately went to the drainage pit, there was no risk of freezing when using a bath in the winter time. Especially it is necessary to remember this in cases where the pit is decided to arrange quite far from the bath. The magnitude of the required slope depends on the selected pipe diameter - this is clearly clearly indicated below the scheme below:

It should be noted that it is usually enough to be noted for the organization of a removal of water from a small bath with a diameter of 50 mm. To keep the desired slope, when digging the connecting trench, as well as when the sandy "pillow" is submitted to it, control the difference in its depths using a construction level.

The arrangement of a drain drainage pit - step-by-step

This section of the publication will consider two versions of drain pits that can be equipped independently.

Normal drainage yama

This variant of the drainage pit has a design that can be made from various materials that were discussed above.

Illustration
	After determining the place for the location of the drain pit, you can move to the digging of the pit. For a bath drainage, the depth of 2500 ÷ 3000 mm will be sufficiently depth. It can have a round or square shape in the section - it will depend on the selected material of the wall arrangement. For example, if the pit is drawn up with bricks, it is more convenient to lay a square or rectangular shape from it, but in some cases a round well is completely exposed from it. The diameter of the pit should be larger than the prepared capacity by 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b200 mm.
	When the recovery is prepared, a trench for laying a drainage pipe is reaping from it to the structure of the bath at the desired angle. The width of the trench can be 300 ÷ 500 mm, and the depth will depend on the level of primeros of the soil in the area where the bath is built, but not less than 500 mm at the entrance to the well.
	The bottom of the finished pit is covered with a stone of the middle faction - this is gravel, crushed stone, brick or even a broken slate. The drainage layer should be at least 300 mm, as it is designed to delay the dirty water and cleaning it, that is, the moisture should be applied to the soil, which will allow it to quickly be absorbed.
	Next, come in different ways. You can immediately lay a sewer pipe, and then work on the brick walls of the water trimmed well, or a container is first installed or built, and in the course of its construction, the drainage pipe is inserted into one of the specially done holes. Most often, the pipe is paved at a time when the walls are removed to the level of the trench depth, otherwise it will be simply to interfere with the work.
	So, the walls of the drain well can be lined with bricks. The laying is made in compliance with the lumen between adjacent bricks in a row of 40 ÷ 50 mm. The wall may have a thickness in the Pollipich or in one brick - this parameter is selected by the builder, and to greater extent depends on the amount of prepared material. Raising the wall of the well to the next 200 ÷ 300 mm, the space between the groundwalls and the bricks are filled with drainage filling.
	If concrete perforated rings are used to form walls, then they will have to attract specialized techniques for their installation, since each of them has an impressive mass, and when installing can not be allowed. After their installation, the distance between the soil and concrete also needs to be filled with drainage. Here it should also be noted that if concrete rings are used for the pit, then you should not hurry with the installation in the hole of their wall of the sewer tube, since under its weight they can somewhat in the ground - it happens that 100 ÷ 150 mm. Therefore, the finished concrete well is recommended to be left alone for a while for shrinkage, otherwise, a plastic pipe can crack or break from the pressure and voltage occurred.
	When used for the pit of metal barrels, the bottom and the cover are cut off, and the side walls can be simply cut with the "Bulgarian". Cuts are performed at a distance from each other in 200 ÷ 250 mm horizontally and in increments of 100 ÷ 120 mm in height. If two barrels are used, they are installed one to another. After installing the bottom of them, the free space around its walls falls asleep drainage. After that, in the second one, in the upper, placed and the hole is cut out, through which the drain pipe will be installed in the barrel. The hole on the markup can be cut with a grinder, but it will be more careful that the electric jigsion is neat. To do this, the hole is drilled in one of the points of the marked circle, which should be free to enter the tool file.
	If plastic barrels prepared for the drain pit, they are mounted in about the same way as metallic, but quite often the drain pipe is attached through the top cover of the container. In a plastic barrel, the bottom may also be cut or several round holes with a diameter of 100 ÷ 120 mm cut through it.
	In the side walls throughout the perimeter of the polymer container, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled with a frequency of 100 ÷ 150 mm horizontally and vertically. Around the barrel and under it, the crushed stone or gravel is filled, in which the water will come from the holes in the previous cases, clean and go into the ground.
	The most commonly used and material for the arrangement of the drainage well of the bath is automotive tires that are installed with one to another one. From the inside in the edges of tires, in three-four-places, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled through which they are fastened with each other by means of, for example, plastic homethers. The sewer tube can be connected between two tires. In this case, for the stop, along the edges of the plastic pipe and in three to four places between the tires, bricks are installed in the place of its passage, which will remove the load from the plastic from the upper rods.
	Another embodiment of the pipe is the installation of it into the hole, cutting into the side wall of the tire. Choosing this method, it is necessary to provide a possible shrinkage of the design, cutting the hole larger the pipe diameter by 70 ÷ 80 mm.
	A sufficiently drainage bathhouse does not fall asleep with drainage material around barrels or tires, and it is filled with two-thirds to them - this allows water to slowly flow to the ground walls and slowly absorbed into them.
	The top of the pits with the walls of the brick is recommended to strengthen, equipping the concrete platform with a hole for the hatch. To do this, the formwork is built around the well, in which the reinforcing grille is stacked, and then it is poured with a concrete solution, a layer with a thickness of 70 ÷ 80 mm.
	After pouring the concrete, a homemade lid is installed on the hole, made of steel sheet and angle. Fully applicable and hatches of factory execution, metal or plastic.
	Special plastic sewer hatches can have various forms and linear parameters. So, planning to establish this particular option, the hatch is acquired in advance, and already on its size, the upper cover of the drain pit is placed.
	The well made of concrete rings is usually covered with a special cover from the same material with an already ready-made hole for a plastic or cast iron hatch.
	The walls of the well, built of tires or from barrels, have less rigidity than brick or concrete, so it is best to strengthen them with cement mortar mixed with rubble. If the drainage was covered between the walls of the well and the soil, the upper layer, closed in 120 ÷ 150 mm, is recommended to be made from the solution mentioned above. Further, the top of the pits can be left in such a state, simply by installing the hatch to the hole, or to equip the concrete site over the construction, followed by its ground backfill.

Pit on the principle of a two-chamber septicity with the output to the filter field

The second option is more complicated by design, but the functionality of it is significantly higher. This system is perfect for the arrangement in the area with close to the surface of the groundwater, as it does not need a deep boiler. In addition, such a design can be a solution and for the organization of drainage water drainage from the foundation, from a storm well, filling from linear rains at the site or their gutters on the roof cornices of the house.

To figure out how to cope with the arrangement of such a hydraulic structure, this process should be considered in detail.

Illustration	Brief description of operations performed
	For this system, two plastic barrels are used, which are easy to prepare for installation work and combine with sewer pipes from the same material. Usually, for a plum pit of a small bath, two or three tanks in a volume of 200 ÷ 250 liters.
	Drinking the barrels are also rotating more than their diameter by 100 ÷ 150 mm, and due to the fact that equal to the size of the capacity will be installed at different levels, the pit must have a stepped configuration for them. The depth of the pit in this system should be greater than the height of the barrel at 450 ÷ 500 mm. This distance will be needed to arrange the drainage pillow under the barrel and the deepening for the pipes included in it. The difference in the installation level of containers should be 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b200 mm, and the distance between them varies between 200 and 300 mm. Mounted barrels in one line. The bottom of the pit is rambling and falling asleep with a gracher of the middle fraction, a layer of 80 ÷ 100 mm thick, which also need to be sealing.
	Next, you can proceed to work on the preparation of containers. The barrel installed above will serve as a primary chamber, that is, a sump for dirty water. In its top cover, a neat opening is cut into which a drain pipe will be installed. In the side wall, on the opposite side of the hole in the lid, the holes for the nozzle are cut out, which connects the first barrel from the second, set slightly below. For the insertion of plastic nozzles in the cover or in the walls of the barrel, you can find in the plumbing store Special flanges, such as what is shown in the illustration.
	If not, then you will have to cut a hole with maximum accuracy, and then for sealing - do not regret the qualitative silicone sealant.
	Additionally, it is recommended to cut a hole for installing the ventilation pipe with a diameter of 40 ÷ 50 mm, or to install a tee, as shown in the illustration, where one removal will be designed to connect the sewer drain pipe from the bath, and the other, vertical - for the ventilation nozzle.
	The second barrel is equipped with three holes, one of which is drilled in the upper lid, and two in the side wall, below the upper edge by 100 ÷ 120 mm. The axes of these side windows should be radially deployed from the axis of the central opening by 45 degrees.
	In the side holes, nozzles with taps installed on them are embedded in 45 degrees. As a result, the nozzles for connecting drainage pipes will be parallel to each other - as shown in the illustration.
	Additionally, at the bottom of the walls of the installed second barrel, from the opposite side of the entrance, small, with a diameter of 5 mm of the hole, is dried, at a distance of each other in 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b170 mm. This is an additional water outlet in a drainage backing around the barrel. However, if the powerful filter fields will certainly cope with their task, and even more so if such a septic has to be installed in the immediate vicinity of the bath, then this operation is not mandatory.
	As a result, such a design should be obtained as shown in the illustration. By mounting a system from barrels and nozzles, you can move to the creation of a filtering drainage field.
	For a drainage platform, which is placed under the slope of the installed barrels, a trench, having a width of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm and the same depth, on which the first barrel standing above is blocked. If desired, the drainage filter field can be stretched to the entire area, as it will not be an interference to arrange the beds over it for annual crops or for planting shrubs. A geotextile canvas is laid on the bottom of the received channel, the drainage will be laid on top. The fading of the trench of the crusher is made by layers, each of which should be carefully tumped and distributed under the slope of the spikes in advance. The bias of the trench should be approximately 25 mm per mongon meter. Pre-installed with a necessary drop in height of the pegs will become peculiar beacons for proper frustration of the drainage layer.
	As the drainage material is covered around the lower barrel, water is poured into it, otherwise the external pressure of the soil can deform it. The space between the walls of the barrels is recommended to fill in gravel or coarse sand, which should be sealing, spilling with water. Further, pipes with perforated walls are joined to the pipes, for which the water will be distributed across the drain pad. Holes are twisted in a step of 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b180 mm at the bottom and side sides of the pipes. Pipes after drilling dressed in the filtering "casing" from geotextile - so that the inside of the pipes is not suspended.
	The next step of the pipe and the entire space of the trench will fall asleep with the rubble of the middle fraction mixed with sand. Such a layer must reach the cover of the barrel installed below, that is, completely close the pipes on top of the layer at least 100 ÷ 120 mm. From above, rubble is best to make a falling of several different layers of soil. Thus, the crushed stone is first closed by geotextile, which is stacked with a layer of hydrated sand with a thickness of 70 ÷ 80 mm, and the rest of the space can be filled with fertile soil. At this site, you can equip the flowerbed, plant one-year vegetable crops or even small shrubs with a shallow root root system.

At the end of the publication, it should be noted that there are other materials that can sometimes be found in the courtyard among old stocks or even seemingly unnecessary trash, which in fact may well be suitable for the construction of a drain pit for a bath. For example, you can find the application of the old sheets of a wave or smooth slate, or even remaining the roofing work of the coating of corrugated flooring.

Some of the inventive owners of country houses lay the walls of the drainage well with glass or plastic bottles, which are filled with sand, find other very interesting solutions. Therefore, if there is a desire to save, and at the same time freeing the part of the yard or room of the shed from old materials, then you need to include the fantasy "on the full coil" - and act! We will be glad if some creative master shares its innovations on the pages of our portal.

Another example of a fixed drain device for a bath is shown in the video posted below.

Video: how to do with minimal cost, make a break for a bath

According to scientists, water is one of the most active natural solvents. Remember the expression - "Water stone sharpening"? Therefore, the diversion of water, both from the external perimeter of the bath structure, and from the inner space, the task is necessary and important. Today, we will equip the drain in the bath, according to all the rules of construction skills.

Drain of water in the bath can be resolved in several versions that differ from each other and the complexity of incarnation and that sin is to thaw, the quality of wastewater removal.

Let's go from simple to complex. The most affordable, and possibly a primitive way to drain water from the bath by arranging torrential floors. The floors of this type are wooden flooring laid on lags with gaps between adjacent elements. That is, as a result, we get the floor with the slits, through which the water is free, without lingering goes to the pit, from which I either should be done, or immediately assembled and absorbed into the soil.

Drain from the bath, solved by this way embodied for a long time, at the dawn of the birth of a bath culture, when the bath itself was easierless - and the water used was also very simple - in the underground. What attractive this method is attractive? First of all, elementary simplicity. Thus, they decide how to make drain in the bath with their own hands, in cases where:

• , small and performed using extremely inexpensive and affordable materials. Having a full-fledged sewage system in it is expensive and troublesome. Yes, and the owner himself confesses a very ascetic approach to the construction of a bath life;
• This bath is used rarely and exclusively in the warm season. Such a purely country option for periodicals, - for the mood, a small company, with a small amount of effluent;
• The layout and features of the site do not allow a full range of earthworks to arrange full-fledged sewage;
• Finally, the structure of the soil has an excellent drainage ability. All water absorbs in the pit quickly and in full.

Such a simple dummy for the bath of course impreams quickly implementing and low costs financially. Very attracts such registration of sewage and small volumes of earthworks, which have always been accompanied by objective difficulties. But, this layout has a negative side. Namely:

• The possibility of only seasonal use. In the cold season, the floors of the pouring type are the source of cold air and reduce the general heat engineering characteristics of the bathroom. Cold floors are one of the most serious signs of discomfort in the modern bath;
• With large volumes of wastewater and occurring in the soil, clay and clay slate can occur their stagnation. And this, in turn, can provoke insect reproduction, in particular mosquitoes and flies, the spread of an unpleasant smell, permanent references of the carriers of the lag, reduce the overall sanitary welfare of the bathroom;
• Finally, on light sandy soils and squeeces, the equipment of the collection of water under the base of the structure can lead to the erosion of the soil and the latter of the foundation, its erosion and, as a result, the reduction of its bearing ability.

By the way! The removal of water in the bath through heavy floors was also distributed in black baths because the baths of this type were faster than burning, rather than their design came into disrepair from the negative impact of moisture.

Unpatient floors, on the basis of which there is a removal of water from the bath make it possible to avoid deficiencies and inconveniences that have the structures of a pouring type. The essence is as follows. The entire floor surface is a waterproof plane, which is oriented in a certain direction by giving it a small slope. In the lowest part of it, the water collector is equipped with a hidden under the surface of the floor with a chute, which takes the drains either to a localized septic tank or centralized sewer.

At this moment, we will stop somewhat more.

Pit against sewage

The draining device in the bath can provide for wastewater in a drain pit or centralized sewer. What is good first option, and what he is inferior to the second:

1. Watering in the bath in an individual septic will not depend on the bureaucratic car "Gorvodokanal" and municipal authorities. No approvals of technical documentation, permits, projects are not necessary. Calculate only on yourself, your own knowledge and strength. In most cases, this is the key and most decisive argument.
2. There are no periodic monthly payments for wastewater.
3. No need to worry about the periodic appearance of congestion and other unpleasant consequences of using the domestic sewage network. Especially bright negative consequences are manifested during the period of abundant precipitation. The situation exacerbates the insufficient section of the projected highways in the steady increase in the number of subscribers. The quality of technical implementation of communications in compliance with mandatory slopes, the purity of the conjugations, corners is far from the strongest side of our utilities.
4. In most cases, the scope of work and the level of costs for the inserts to the centralized network exceeds the same indicator during the arrangement of its own localized septic.

Important! The elimination of accidents and malfunctions of the sewage network is entrusted with the repair units of the Gorodokanal, and the quality of work, their efficiency has long become "legendary".

At the same time, the drain pit for a bath can hone in itself and inconvenience to use, and even certain threats:

• Having drawn sinking for the bath with their own hands, special attention should be paid to the structure of the soil at the site of the Septic Bookmark. In certain cases, the manifestation of the so-called "saturation" of the moisture to be soiled, as a result of which they receive the properties of floats, with a sharp loss of their carrier ability;
• Place a pit is necessary at a distance of at least 4500 mm from the Bani Foundation line. Some practitioners experts confess such a rule: the edge of the drain pit should be located from the Bani foundation line at a distance of not less than the complete height of the structure - from the sole of the base to its skate;
• The drain pit can have a negative impact on the natural sources of water supply, such as wells, wells, springs. On the rules for placing the infrastructure within the site, we have already told;
• A competently equipped pit with a large internal volume is a serious structure that requires a large amount of earthworks and subsequent disposal of the removed soil;
• Insufficiently isolated pit can serve as a source of unpleasant odor, the subject of the concentration of the problems of a purely sanitary nature, for example, in a number of regions - seedlings of mosquitoes;
• If the soil, the pit is not endowed with sufficient drainage abilities, its volume is small, and the drainage in the bath is abundant, it is necessary to be prepared for the fact that the costs of the services of the assessing barrel will become a permanent line of expenses, which in some cases will exceed payments to the equalidation account Payment sewage.

By the way! Let's say frankly. In most rural and suburban areas about the centralized sewer network, residents know only the first-head, and the drain pit remains the only option to implement such a project as a removal of water from the bath with their own hands.

Several mansion is worth performing work in such a context, as a drain in the bath on the screw piles. What is the whole salt here? Screw piles directly perform the role of the carrier node, which perceives and evenly distributes the static load of the structure. There is no extended line of contact with the soil, to a lesser extent, such a design is susceptible to erosion, as in the case of a belt foundation. Therefore, in some cases a cesspool is placed directly under the bath. The only condition - it is necessary to provide an opportunity for convenient access to the service hatch from the assessing agents. The vacuum barrel hose is not so flexible and moved so that it can be used in very cramped conditions.

If you still remember the septicism to improve the arrangement of the septica, it is likely to note another simple and efficient design, such as a drain tire pit for a bath. In the conditions of the countryside, and even more so the summer area, when the arrangement of a full pit is difficult, as the main elements that form the rim circle, you can use spent tires from the cargo vehicle. A large number of sizes will allow you to make a hole of the most different sections, and if luck smiles and it will be possible to get tires from agricultural machinery, then with a small budget you can build a pit of a decent cubature that can serve the bath used from time to time, but constantly. The greatest spread was the front and rear tires from T-150K tractors, K - 700, K-701, the rear from YUMZ - 6, MTZ - 80/82.

The word from the experience! When mounting tires in the pit set, it is worth using a simple manual winch of low loading at the simplest cross. First, it is correct from the point of view of safety, on the other hand, it will allow laying with high accuracy. For some sizes of tires, manual laying is akin to an employment fee. To clarify the situation, just look at the dimensions and weight of the tires from the same to - 701 "Kirovets".

Practical recommendations on the arrangement of the water supply system in the bath

In this section, we will get acquainted with the practical side of the issue, how to make the plums in the bath.

At the design stage

The correct plums in the bath provides for the elaboration of its design long before the construction, even at the stage of project surveys. What you need to take into account and what to pay attention to:

1. The total amount of recyclable water, and, as a one-time, during one bath day, and in general, for a month or calendar year.
2. Characteristics of soils, their drainage ability, depth of groundwater. A trend can be traced very often when in the spring period the groundwater is suitable close to the surface, it is hardly at a depth of 40 - 50 cm from the control line, and then, right up to deep autumn, go down and do not exist until the next period of melting of snow and abundant precipitation.
3. The number of water collection points, the character of the effluent. It is one thing - plums from the bath exclusively water, albeit somewhat contaminated with detergents, the other is the discharge of wastewater from the kitchen unit of the bath, which often takes noisy companies, accompanied by an abundant feast. Be sure to take into account the presence of a bathroom in the bath. His presence changes stock structure. Here it is also necessary to understand whether it is necessary to drain in the steam room. It is this position that will determine the further progress of work in the very responsible room of the future bath.
4. Used type of foundation, the nature of heat and waterproofing, the types of finishing works during the construction of the bath on the finish operations.
5. Finally, we estimate the risks of the operation of the bath in the cold season. How severe frosts, what is their duration, at what depth is the point of guaranteed soil freezing.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, the project calculation soberly conducted, will relieve problems, as at the stage when we only make a drain of water from the bath with your own hands and in the course of further operation of a bath structure.

Construction site arrangement and foundation laying

What do here:

• We clean the platform from unnecessary elements, garbage, vegetation. We estimate the relief;
• If necessary, we plan on the plane;
• We make markup and produce linear binding of future objects to the area;
• We calculate the rational location of septicists, highways, coordination of water-watering and sewer communications. The distance of the sewer units from the objects of water supply, the boundaries of the site, roads, within the requirements of SNiP;
• When the foundation is erected, communication and technological channels are immediately laid. It will save from unpleasant and hard work on their breaking in the already ready and formed concrete array. The foundation for a bath with a drain is simply laid at the required points of the segment of durable metal pipes, which subsequently can be used as safety sleeves.

If underground communications are placed at this stage, do not forget about the arrangement of damper pillows in trenches. For a plastic pipe with a diameter of 152 mm, passing at a depth of 1200 mm in a clay or liner soil, the thickness of the sand pillow should be about 180 mm. This will allow passing the trench of automotive and construction equipment with a total weight of 18 - 22 tons without consequences. A more heavy special equipment in the construction of a bath on construction sites is hardly used.

Stage of the construction of basic supporting structures

At this time, the issue should be focused on how the bath, the drain corresponds to each other. It is necessary to avoid the intersection of drain pipes and grooves with indigenous elements, for example, as sex lags. At the same time, the angle of the gutter is set, turns, adjoining, overflows.

If the optimal angle of the slope fails to withstand without contact with one or another obstacle, it is better to go upward increasing the fall, rather than reduce it and provoke the risk of congestion, especially if the bath is equipped with a bathroom and kitchen block. Also at this stage, the emergency discharge points of the coolant from the heating system and hot water supply to the sewer network are made.

Stage of finishing work

This is already a kind of finish line in dealing with the issue of how to make a break from the bath. Regarding ways of arrangement of sex in the bath, we have already told. Denote the essential nuances concerning directly water disposal. It is on this production segment that water collectors are drawn up, and the floor planes are obtained. And the bias of the floor can be:

• Concentric, that is, the watershed in the middle and all sides of the floor in the projection from it, get the necessary slope equally. In the surroundings, it is called "envelope";
• One-sided when the watershed has an entry orientation and the floor is directed in its direction with its entire plane. Although, really such a water intake system has all the same two, intermediated by the slope relative to each other.

What method to apply depends rather, on the set of specific conditions, however, it is worth noting that concentric allows you to quickly and high quality water, and one-sided is more hidden from the eye and relatively simply implemented in practice. Both first, and the second method combines a general requirement of SNiP - the slope of the floor should vary within 9 - 11 mm on the temporal meter of its plane.

As for the slope of the pipe, when we draw a drop from the bath with your own hands. The same SNiP provides that the drop in the pipe relative to the horizontal should be at least 30 mm per 1 meter of its length. This factor should provide a flow rate in the pipe at the level of 0.7 m / s or more. For pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and less, the level of the slope can be slightly increased - up to 35 mm on the pipe memory meter of the pipe.

Floor finishing tiles is the most common way of finishing coating. Therefore, try to be the slope of the plane relative to the horizontal in the range of 2%. On the one hand, such a value is enough to actively roll off the water from its surface, on the other - such a slope will not contribute to the fact that visitors will actively roll from its surface.

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to dwell on the most fundamental and key points of solving the problem, how to drain in the bath. For the convenience of visual perception of information in the light of the question - drained in the bath with your own hands, step-by-step guide, we have placed a number of video materials. The problem of drainage needs to be solved comprehensively and systemically, otherwise, sewage can turn into a source of constant problems, ranging from congestion and ending with the seedler of mosquitoes. It is better once to work as a builder than then constantly work plumbing.