Why garlic leaves turn yellow in spring: the main reasons. What to do if the garlic turns yellow in the spring? What to do so that garlic does not turn yellow in winter

Garlic is a popular vegetable for planting in gardens and orchards, because it contains a huge amount of useful substances, thanks to which garlic is used as a medicine. Also, garlic gives food an amazing taste and aroma, so it is not surprising that many people like to plant it in vegetable gardens.

Gardeners planting garlic in their area may always be faced with the question: “Why does garlic turn yellow in spring and what to do?”. The yellowing of the garlic starts at the tips, then quickly increases, which leads to a slowdown in the growth and development of the plant, to a not the best harvest.

In this article, we will try to help gardeners find the most effective solutions to avoid such problems. Below we will look at the reasons why garlic leaves turn yellow, and describe methods to combat yellowing.

There are two types of garlic: spring, considered spring, and winter or winter. Most of all, the leaves of a winter plant undergo yellowing even during spring frosts.

In general, yellowing of garlic can occur due to various reasons:

1. If garlic is planted very early before winter, then it can give green shoots by autumn, which will then be seized by frost, from which the leaves will turn yellow by spring. Gardeners in the middle zone of the country should plant garlic no earlier than October 15-20, in the south in mid-November.
2. Due to unfavorable weather conditions, frosts.
3. Garlic may lack beneficial nutrients.
4. With insufficient watering or its overabundance. If the air-water balance is disturbed, the culture will be spoiled. Do not forget: it is much easier for a garlic plant to survive a drought than an excess of moisture. Watering a garlic plant should be carried out according to the following scheme: with precipitation in a small amount, the plant is watered once within fourteen days; with constant precipitation, you should not water the garlic at all; in the absence of rain, watering should be increased to once a week.
5. With a lack of nitrogen in the soil. With constant precipitation, fertilizers begin to wash out of the soil, after which nitrogen starvation begins in the garlic plant. In order to prevent nitrogen starvation in garlic, gardeners use ammonium sulfate in the fall, minerals, and organics in early spring. It can be liquid manure or carbamide. It is most effective to mix 20 grams of substances in a bucket of water, then water the plants. Only in this way will the substances quickly flow directly to the garlic.
6. With a lack of potassium or magnesium in the composition of the soil. If the garlic plant does not have enough potassium, then the roots will be damaged, yellowing, drying and wilting of the leaves will begin, the garlic will stop growing. When fertilized with potassium, the growth of the garlic plant will be stimulated, and the resistance of garlic to frost, pests and dry weather will be increased. Other signs also notify of an insufficient amount of potassium, such as: uneven growth of leaves that droop and grow thin, and “marginal burns” begin to appear on the edges of the leaves along the edges of the leaves. With a lack of potassium in the soil, garlic can be fertilized with wood ash, per meter of plot 100 grams of ash. Ash is also considered an excellent phosphate fertilizer.
7. If the planting depth of the teeth is more than 7 centimeters. It is best to plant garlic at a depth of 5 to 7 centimeters. With a deeper planting, the vegetable freezes and the leaves turn yellow. To avoid yellowing of the leaves, it is necessary to cover the young sprouts with a film of polyethylene. However, if garlic is already affected by spring frosts, then the vegetable must be treated with special stimulating drugs. The sooner gardeners start processing during frosts, the better. "Zircon" and biostimulant "Epin" help to improve root formation and flowering, increase resistance to diseases. 8 drops of "Zircon" per liter of water, then garlic cloves are soaked for 60 minutes. 1 milliliter of "Epin" is dissolved in a bucket with five liters of water.
8. If the soil where the garlic is planted is acidic. Only neutral soil that is enriched with oxygen and has a sufficient amount of moisture will contribute to a good harvest. With acidic soil, the appearance of the garlic plant worsens. Reduce the acidity of the soil should be in the fall, preparing limestone, which mixes well with the soil. For soil with strong acidity, from 50 to 70 kilograms of lime are prepared; when working with medium acid soil, from 35 to 45 kilograms of lime is taken; if the soil has a weak acidity, then 30-35 kilograms of lime will suffice.
9. Planting garlic in frost-bitten soil or in extreme cold.

Diseases and pests

Fungal diseases can lead to the development of rot and yellowing.

There are the following types of diseases:

Fusarium (bottom rot)

1. Symptoms of the disease: active yellowing of the leaves; stems are covered with brown stripes.
2. Features: most often occurs in the south.
3. Prevention: treatment with a solution of potassium permanganate.
4. Causes of the disease: high humidity; excess moisture.

Bacterial rot or bacteriosis

1. Signs of the disease: the teeth begin to rot as they grow.
2. Causes of the disease: storage of the crop at high temperature and in a humid room.
3. Features: during storage and during the growing season, the disease overtakes.
4. Prevention: you can not plant garlic plants in one place earlier than after 4 years; the soil should be fertilized with phosphate fertilizers.

basal rot

1. Signs of the disease: the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow, then the yellowing continues at the bottom of the plant.
2. Causes of the disease: high humidity.
3. Features: hard to notice until the yellowing of the leaves begins.
4. Prevention: removal of diseased plants; planting material should be disinfected with Tiram at a concentration of two to three percent.

white rot

1. Signs of the disease: the bulbs become covered with white mold after the onion begins to rot; leaves wither and begin to turn yellow.
2. Causes of the disease: lack of nitrogen; dry spring.
3. Features: the disease can persist for more than 30 years in contaminated soil.
4. Prevention: regular watering in dry weather; use mineral fertilizers such as ammonium nitrate.

Asperillosis or black mold

1. Signs of the disease: yellowed leaves; soft bulbs.
2. Causes of the disease: the wrong temperature regime of the environment.
3. Features: the disease is most often affected by garlic, which has not yet ripened.
4. Prevention: 1% Bordeaux liquid is used 3 weeks before harvest; observe the temperature regime; dry well.

Penicillosis or green mold, blue mold

1. Signs of the disease: garlic cloves are covered with bluish-greenish rot.
2. Causes of the disease: through the air; careless handling during harvesting;
3. Features: the disease is exposed mainly to early garlic.
4. Prevention: during storage, constantly monitor the crop and destroy (separate) cloves that are damaged.

Neck rot or gray rot

1. Signs of the disease: roots rot; stems turn black; black clots may appear between the teeth; when fertilizing garlic with large doses of nitrogen-containing dressings.
2. Causes of the disease: warm weather conditions; high humidity.
3. Prevention: the level of moisture inside the soil should be monitored; before storage, dry thoroughly and store at zero temperature - this stops the development of gray rot.

Downy mildew or downy mildew

1. Signs of the disease: fluffy gray spots appear on the leaves, they look like dew; slow growth; slow development; leaves may turn black, wrinkle, turn yellow.
2. Causes of the disease: coolness; rainy weather conditions; too thick landing.
3. Features: the disease can be stored in the soil for many years.
4. Prevention: treatment with biological preparations (biofungicides).

Rust

1. Signs of the disease: yellowing of the leaves, which are covered with spots and specks.
2. Causes of the disease: through the air; high humidity; cool.
3. Features: later the leaves may acquire an orange or brown color.
4. Prevention: chemically treat before planting garlic; the affected areas are removed, then the garlic is processed with a Bordeaux mixture.

Mosaic

1. Signs of the disease: the leaves begin to become covered with spots of white, green or yellow.
2. Causes of the disease: the virus is most often transmitted through planting material.
3. Features: affects inflorescences with leaves.
4. Prevention: planting healthy material; renew seed by 30% annually.

yellow dwarfism

1. Signs of the disease: yellow streaks on garlic leaves; the stems curl, begin to turn yellow, become dwarf.
2. Causes of the disease: with prolonged reproduction of garlic cloves.
3. Prevention: Remove diseased plants.

Pests such as:

stem nematode

1. Signs of the disease: long light stripes on the leaves; strong smell of garlic; yellowing, twisting, wilting of leaves; the bulb loosens, then rots.
2. Features: watered under the root.
3. Prevention: a saline solution of two handfuls of salt is diluted with 10 liters of water; 2 tablespoons of ammonia can be diluted with 10 liters of water; plant mint, calendula, thyme near the garlic.

onion fly

1. Signs of the disease: the plant weakens and dies; turns yellow quickly.
2. Features: lays eggs under the top scales of garlic.
3. Prevention: change the place of sowing; plant only high quality seeds.

mite root

1. Signs of the disease: the leaves with the bulb begin to dry out; garlic scales begin to become covered with brown dust.
2. Features: lays up to 800 eggs at a time.
3. Prevention: you need to remove infected seeds and burn them; disinfect planting crops with chloropicrin or fumigate with sulfur dioxide.

What else to water so that it does not turn yellow?

Garlic plants are watered in the spring with the following solutions:

1. Dilute humus or nitrogenous fertilizers in water.
2. During frost, growth stimulants "Epin" (1 milliliter per five-liter bucket) and "Zircon" (8 drops are dissolved in a liter bucket) are diluted in water.
3. Against pests, water the garlic with a solution of three tablespoons of table salt dissolved in a bucket of water.
4. A kilogram of wood ash is infused in a bucket of boiled hot water for three days, then mixed and the beds begin to be watered as top dressing.
5. Potassium permanganate is dissolved in water, water of a slightly pink hue will help destroy harmful organisms.
6. Water the beds with a solution of urea (30 grams is dissolved in a 10 liter bucket) as a dry fertilizer.
7. 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate in a liter bucket of water as an anti-yellowing fertilizer.

Winter garlic rises very quickly, and pleases summer residents with its beautiful, powerful, green feather. But what about when you noticed that the riot of green had changed to a pale yellow? Today we will find out why garlic turns yellow in the beds, what to do about it, what control measures to apply to avoid this, folk and not only. Because there may be several reasons for this phenomenon and they are all completely different, let's dive into this issue in more detail.

Approximately 60% of all cases of this unpleasant situation are caused by cold. This happens in two cases:

• If the summer resident planted a vegetable in the garden too early. Often, ignoring the planting dates, which have been compiled for hundreds of years, leads to disastrous results. The best solution to avoid getting the vegetation into a state of shock is to check the weather forecast for several weeks in advance, and of course adhere to the recommendations of experienced gardeners. Residents of the middle lane, as a rule, in the last days of September, and in the first decade of October. In the southern regions, the date is postponed for a month, and work begins in November. If the schedule is violated, if the planting is too early, the sprout begins to take root, and the first leaves will appear on it, which will freeze over the winter, and in the spring we will get an unpleasant story with a yellow feather.
• Severe frosts in winter, and a protracted spring with frosts will significantly spoil the picture. Unfortunately, there is no way to fix this situation. If young garlic leaves are exposed to frost, they begin to turn yellow. Of course, the summer resident cannot influence the temperature, but he certainly can minimize the negative impact of this factor. Ordinary mulching will come to the rescue, it is done back in the autumn, when planting a crop in the ground, ordinary fallen leaves will fit for this.

In cases where it was not possible to save crops, they are recommended to be treated with biostimulants. According to gardeners, the following drugs do a good job with this task:

1. "Nv - 101".
2. "Epin".
3. "Zircon".
4. "Energy".

Excess or lack of moisture:

Ultimately, too rainy or dry summers adversely affect many crops, these factors can also cause yellowing of the garlic feather. How to correct this state of affairs when there is a water imbalance in the structure of the plant? If the spring is normal, with a normal level of precipitation, then the vegetable is watered every 14 days. This is what comes from during the dry season. If there is not enough moisture, then the watering procedure should be frequent, and in case of heavy and frequent rains, we stop watering altogether. Excess moisture can do more harm than lack of it.. For 4-5 weeks before it will be necessary to harvest, it is no longer necessary to water the crop.

Diseases and pests of garlic, as the cause of yellowing of the feather:

Even such a persistent and even useful vegetable has its own problems when dealing with pests on other crops. What it is susceptible to: downy mildew, various types of rot, rust, mold, onion fly, nematode, moth, mites. All these factors can lead to the fact that the leaves begin to turn yellow on the garlic.

And so, how to understand what exactly provoked the disease. To do this, simply dig up one affected bulb and inspect it well. When you notice on it: rot, mold, rotten root, pink bloom on the bottom, larvae - pests are the problem. If the culprits of the disease, the plants are sprayed with fungicides. To overcome the onion fly, it is necessary to organize mixed plantings, but in case of infection with nematodes, nothing can be saved. Therefore, it is best to carry out all prevention methods in advance, and not encounter this problem during the high season.

How to prevent diseases:

You must follow the rules of crop rotation, and know. Before planting, it is necessary to treat the planting material in a fungicide. Once every few years, it is necessary to completely renew the seedlings. To combat nematodes in the garden with garlic, plant marigolds and calendula, they will drive them away from the garden.

Lack of nitrogen and other trace elements.

If you have ruled out all other symptoms, then most likely the cause will be a lack of nitrogen or other trace elements. The remedy in this case is quite simple, the usual top dressing. In most cases, just one spring dressing will be enough to provide the vegetable with all the necessary substances, it is carried out at the very beginning of spring, until the soil has completely thawed.

Recipe for spring dressing of garlic:

In 10 liters of water, dilute 6 grams of ammonium nitrate, 10 grams of superphosphate, 6 grams of potassium sulfate. Consumption - ten liters of liquid per square meter of crop area. If necessary, this procedure can be repeated after 30 days. If you are an adherent of natural, folk remedies, then feed with herbal tincture (okopinka) and wood ash.

But what to do when such a procedure was not carried out on time, and yellowing has already begun? Fertilization can save the situation. First, sparingly spray the feather with a solution of complex fertilizer, after 7 days, carry out root dressing.

There are many reasons for the yellowing of the garlic feather, as well as methods for eliminating this ailment, sometimes even the formation of an onion, and the outflow of nutrients into the cloves can provoke such an effect. Therefore, before you panic, be sure to figure out the reasons, and then start acting. Only then, you can get a decent crop of vegetables from your garden.

Novice gardeners quite often encounter a phenomenon in which the bright green feathers of winter garlic begin to quickly turn yellow, signaling a disease or rotting of the head. What happened to the plant, how to prevent yellowing, and what to do if the problem is already there?

Soil not suitable

Garlic is very sensitive to the condition of the soil, so it can turn yellow if the acidity of the soil is more or less different from neutral. If the soil is characterized by high acidity, then you need to use methods to increase the low pH. The introduction of lime, ash or dolomite flour will help to deoxidize the soil. The use of agroperlite and agrotechnical hydrogels can have a good effect.

In addition, it is very important to water the garlic well in June and be sure to loosen the soil, preventing the formation of a dense crust on it, then the garlic will be able to receive the necessary amount of oxygen.

Stem nematode infection

Another reason why the tops of garlic turn yellow and curl, and the bulb cracks and rots, may be a pest - a stem onion nematode. This is probably the most serious problem.

The onion stem nematode is a small white worm, 1.5 mm long and 0.05 mm thick. It is believed that it is practically useless to fight it, since it can live in the soil for up to 10 years completely without food and water.

How to identify an infected plant? It is necessary to dig up yellowed garlic and, if there are rotten roots on the head in combination with a white or pinkish bloom, then this is a cluster of nematodes. Infected plants should be disposed of immediately. And do not plant garlic and onions next year in this place.

To protect your garlic beds from infection with a stem onion nematode, you need to be very careful in choosing planting material. It is better to hold the garlic cloves in hot water (+40°C) for about two hours before planting or in a 3% sodium chloride solution for at least 25 minutes at a temperature of +20°C. Such treatment will significantly reduce the number of pests and restrain their further spread.

It is worth paying attention to the condition of the soil, since the nematode usually lives in an environment with high acidity. How to deal with high acidity, we have already discussed above.

In addition, next year a plot of land infected with a pest is best sown with marigold or marigold seeds, because the juice of these flowers is detrimental to the nematode.

cold winters

Quite strong and prolonged colds in winter can have a negative impact on the harvest of garlic, so it is better to plant winter garlic so that it has time to take root before the onset of cold weather, but does not start growing, otherwise the first shoots will definitely freeze. It is best to do this no earlier than 2-3 weeks before the onset of cold weather. In this case, the optimal planting depth of the teeth should be from 4 to 6 centimeters.

Spring frosts can also cause yellowing. To protect plants from this, the soil should be treated with drugs that increase frost resistance, or the seedlings should be covered with cellophane. And in order for garlic to receive nutrients from the earth that has not yet thawed, it must be fed with ammonium nitrate.

Diseases

Garlic leaves can also turn yellow from fungal diseases. The most common: Fusarium, bacterial rot and powdery mildew, which develop in dense, moist soil with high air temperatures and insufficient nutrients. It is not easy to treat them, so it is better to warn.

To do this, before planting, you need to carry out a twenty-minute disinfection of garlic in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or with the help of specialized preparations "Maxim" or "Fitosporin". You can also do prophylaxis once a season by watering the garlic beds with the same solutions.

To avoid the appearance of all kinds of diseases, you should not plant garlic in places where potatoes and onions were previously grown. For him, it is better to choose a place next to coriander, mint, calendula and thyme.

Soil nitrogen deficiency

The reddish hue of the already yellowing leaves of garlic, other vegetable crops, and even common weeds is an excellent confirmation of a nitrogen deficiency in the soil. When such signs appear, the land must be fertilized with organic or mineral substances.

It is best to fertilize garlic with complex nitrogen fertilizers or urea and urea in the spring so that nitrogen does not wash out of the soil ahead of time, as is the case if fertilizers are applied in the fall.

According to the technology, shallow grooves should be made between the rows of garlic and a dose of fertilizer should be added to them according to the instructions. Level the furrows and water the fertilized area. From above, you can apply dry humus or compost, then the soil will retain moisture longer.

Alternatively, you can first prepare a nutrient solution of 20 grams of urea per bucket of water and pour it over garlic at the rate of 10 liters per square meter. This method is the most effective, since the necessary substances immediately enter the plant.

Irregular watering

Moderate watering of garlic, neither less nor more than necessary, can serve as one of the main preventive measures to avoid diseases.

Winter garlic should not be watered in the spring, it needs enough moisture that remains in the ground after the snow melts. It is better to start regular watering from June, but you should not be zealous here either, as too much moisture can cause decay.

Potassium and magnesium deficiency

In addition to yellowness, the problem of potassium deficiency can be identified by the yellowness of the tops and drooping leaves with longitudinal "burns" along the edges.

In this case, especially at the very beginning of growth, foliar top dressing will help perfectly. As a fertilizer, it is better to choose a solution of potassium chloride (10 grams per liter of water) or a specialized complex mixture. Top dressing is best done by spraying the solution over the ground in clear, calm weather.

Also, for top dressing, you can use ash at the rate of 100 grams per square meter, it will help reduce the acidity of the soil and enrich it with mineral trace elements.

If possible, it is worth using manure humus as the best organic fertilizer. It is necessary to make humus at the rate of 100 kilograms per hundred square meters of land.

Fresh manure is strictly prohibited! It will not only burn most of the crops, but also contains a huge number of larvae of various pests. Suitable humus must be at least three years old.

It is imperative to deal with a deficiency of potassium and magnesium, since their deficiency causes a slow uptake of nitrogen and phosphorus by the plant.

Today I will answer the question of why garlic leaves turn yellow, and also talk about measures to combat yellowing leaves and the necessary prevention. There are several reasons for the yellowing of garlic leaves (winter garlic turns yellow more often): Too acidic soilSolution to the problem:

Garlic must be planted in neutral soil, but if your soil is acidic, then you need to deoxidize it by adding lime (35-50 kg per hundred square meters, depending on the acidity of the soil) immediately before autumn digging. Lack of nitrogen in the soilRecommendations:

Nitrogen is quickly washed out of the soil, so it is recommended to apply nitrogenous fertilizers in early spring, during the period of active growth. You can use humus or urea. Lack of potassium and magnesium in the soilHow to proceed gardener in this case?

Potassium sulphate is added at the rate of 15-20 g per 10 liters of water. Magnesium can be added as a foliar top dressing at the rate of 100-200 g per 10 liters of water. Irregular watering May-June garlic needs to be watered regularly and loosen the soil if you want to avoid yellowing of the leaves.

Winter freezing To avoid freezing garlic in winter, it is necessary to plant cloves at such a time when they can take root, but not start growing. The optimal time for planting garlic is the first half of October. Plant at a depth of 5-7 cm.

Also, for better protection against freezing, mulch plantings with humus to a thickness of 5-7 cm. Often, diseases such as white rot, black mold, bacterial rot and fusarium are the cause of yellowing of garlic leaves. To prevent these diseases before planting, soak the cloves in a solution of manganese.

If this is not done on time, then pour the beds with a solution of table salt - two tablespoons per 10 liters of water. Pest control:

To prevent damage to plants by a stem nematode, which can also cause yellowing of leaves, use the mutual influence of plants: sow plants such as calendula, marigold, mint, coriander, hyssop and savory in the aisles of garlic, which will scare away pests. Non-compliance with the rules of crop rotation Try carefully observe crop rotation rules - it is of great importance that after that you sow in the garden, for example, it is better not to plant garlic on a plot from under potatoes, since potatoes are a poor precursor for garlic. As you can see, the causes of yellowing garlic leaves can be different. Take a closer look at the garlic plants and try to understand what the plants want, and the cause of the problem will immediately appear, and I described the solution above.

The main reasons why garlic turns yellow

22 Sep 2013 |

Gardeners in the spring quite often encounter such an unpleasant phenomenon as the yellowing of garlic leaves. This is not only an unpleasant external effect, but also a sign that the cultivation of winter garlic is carried out in violation of agricultural technology. If in the spring the leaves turn yellow, then soon after that the garlic stops growing, and the planted teeth rot. What does all this come from? There can be several reasons for the yellowing of garlic, the main of which are:

• lack of nutrients; excessive moisture or lack of moisture; freezing of plants in winter; unsuitable soil; pests and diseases.

As you can see, all the reasons that cause the appearance of yellow garlic leaves lie in improper agricultural practices. In order to avoid such an unpleasant phenomenon, it is very important to carry out all agrotechnical measures correctly and in a timely manner.

Measures to prevent yellowing of garlic leaves

First, observe the air-gas regime. This is achieved by loosening the soil. It is important not to allow a dense crust to form on the surface of the bed with garlic, which does not allow the plant to breathe. Secondly, it is not recommended to water winter garlic in the spring - it does not like too wet soil, and in spring it has enough moisture from the snow that has come down. However, the soil should not be allowed to dry out either.

IMPORTANT: It makes sense to start watering no earlier than June. When choosing an irrigation regime, you need to focus on specific conditions, and not on general recommendations.

Thirdly, garlic is quite sensitive to soil. It must be neutral. Yellowed leaves indicate that the soil is acidic or lacks nitrogen.

To reduce acidity, the soil must be limed before planting or ash should be added at the rate of a glass per 10 liters of water. In order for the garlic to have enough nitrogen, urea or other nitrogenous fertilizers must be applied in the spring.

ATTENTION: Fresh manure is contraindicated for winter garlic, as it can cause disease.

Fourthly, not the most favorable conditions can also cause yellowing of garlic leaves. Winter crops can freeze. To avoid this, you need to plant a crop so that the teeth can take root, but at the same time do not start growing in the winter.

At the same time, the planting depth also matters, the optimal one is from 4 to 6 cm. It is better to mulch the planted teeth. Cold spring also adversely affects plantings.

Plants cannot get nutritious plants from the soil that has not yet thawed, and because of this they can also turn yellow. Salvation can be top dressing with ammonium nitrate.

Pests and diseases of garlic - another reason for its yellowing

Speaking about pests and diseases that cause the appearance of yellow leaves on many varieties of garlic, one cannot fail to mention the following:

• fusarium is a fungal disease that develops due to excess moisture at a fairly high air temperature, dense soil and lack of plant nutrition; downy mildew is a disease that affects plants grown in conditions of high humidity and relatively high air temperature; onion fly is a pest that affects garlic leaves; stem nematode - a pest worm that can live in the soil for a long time and lays eggs inside the plant.

What to do if the garlic leaves turn yellow?

To save the garlic crop when the leaves turn yellow, you can do the following:

1. fertilize with complex fertilizer or urea. Also, garlic may lack potassium - in this case, potassium sulfate can be used; if the soil is moist and dense, it is good to loosen the aisles; water the bed with a solution of table salt, a weak solution of potassium permanganate or a special pesticide.

If the garlic turns yellow, it is necessary to analyze what caused this. And in order to avoid such a problem next year, it is necessary to prepare planting material, soil well and observe crop rotation and agricultural technology.

Along with this, read the following articles:

Garlic has been known to man since ancient times, it was not only eaten, but also used for medical purposes, as a medicine. In our time, perhaps, there is no such gardener who would not have garlic on the site.

Garlic: features of varieties

1. winter, which is planted before winter (with separate cloves in open ground in autumn). Spring - planted in spring.

Winter garlic differs from spring garlic in that the first one already has a future green arrow in the tooth, which is clearly visible if a cross section is made. Spring garlic does not release an arrow. Its reproduction occurs by cloves.

Outwardly, they also differ: winter contains one row of 4-6 large slices, and spring - has 2 rows of small ones. Gardeners noticed that mostly yellowing winter garlic.

Why does garlic turn yellow in the garden?

• Deep landing. Do not plant winter garlic cloves deep in the ground, this can lead to freezing and the appearance of yellow leaves. Therefore, landing is best done at a depth of 5 cm. Lack of nitrogen. This cause can be easily corrected if you feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizer in early spring (if you do this in the fall, then some of the fertilizer will be washed out of the soil). Liquid manure, urea is quite suitable for this. Acidic soil. Such a soil is absolutely not suitable! The soil should be sufficiently moist and enriched with oxygen. Neutral soil will do. If the garlic has begun to turn yellow, then you need to water the soil often and loosen it constantly. Bad planting material. This can also be one of the reasons for the appearance of yellowness. It is advisable to renew planting material every year, otherwise the accumulation and development of viral diseases may occur. Lack of watering. To prevent your garlic from turning yellow, be sure to water it. This is especially important in May - June, when green mass is being formed. The cause of yellowing may be a violation of the timing of planting garlic. Various pests and diseases. Such ailments include white rot, stem nematode, which appears in wet weather, fungus. With fungal diseases, brown-yellow stripes appear on the leaves. The head of garlic itself becomes covered with brown spots, the bottom of the head becomes soft.

There are many reasons for the yellowing of the tips of garlic leaves, it is important to identify the problem in a timely manner and eliminate it. Read also:

Why garlic turns yellow - what to do, how to process, feed

What to do? Maybe it's a disease? Then what to process? Or maybe he is missing something?

How and what to feed? We usually see that garlic leaves begin to turn yellow from the tips. Then this yellowing increases, respectively, the development of the plant is delayed, the bulbs are formed smaller. The reasons may be different.

First, the leaves of winter garlic turn yellow in early spring, after it falls under a hard frost. This is one of the reasons. Secondly, this can happen if the bulb is infected with some kind of fungal disease. These are only two reasons.

They are, as it were, obvious, we ourselves can determine the cause of the yellowing of garlic leaves. In the morning we woke up, and there was frost on the grass, puddles covered with thin ice. Or they pulled out the bulb and saw that on the bottom, the roots turned black, mold appeared.

What to do after spring frosts

If the garlic caught a light frost, there was a frost, then it is advisable to immediately process it, spray the leaves with a solution of any stimulant - HB-101, Epin, Zircon and others.

Diseases of garlic

At the very beginning, I talked about the fact that garlic can turn yellow from fungal diseases. They can cause yellow leaves. It is difficult to treat fusarium, bacterial rot - it is easier to prevent. What to do?

Before planting, the garlic cloves had to be disinfected - kept in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate, or the Maxim preparation, or the Fitosporin preparation (15-25 minutes). If you didn’t do this before planting, then you can water the beds with these solutions for prevention. But sometimes there are no such obvious signs of the cause of garlic yellowing.

There were no frosts, the spine on the bulb was clean. What is going on? What to do? What to process?

Maybe you need to feed?

Top dressing of garlic

One of the reasons why the leaves turn yellow is the lack of nutrients. Basically, he lacks nitrogen or potassium. What to do?

For top dressing, you can use mineral or organic fertilizers. Carefully loosen the aisles. Make a shallow (1-2 cm) groove.

Pour (sow) granular fertilizers into it, for example, urea (urea) or some kind of complex mineral fertilizer. Sprinkle the granules with earth.

After that, water the entire garden abundantly so that the fertilizer dissolves, since any plants absorb nutrients only in dissolved form. After that, you can mulch the wet bed with dry earth or compost so that the soil remains moist as long as possible. This is one option for using mineral fertilizer on a bed with garlic. The second option.

First, dissolve dry mineral fertilizer in water (1 tablespoon of urea or Fertiki Lux per 10 liters of water), pour garlic - 10 liters of solution per 1 sq. m. This option is even preferable, since liquid fertilizer immediately gets to the roots of plants. What else can be done? You can do foliar top dressing.

It is especially useful for young plants. You can feed with a complex mineral fertilizer or potassium sulfate, which is also often lacking in garlic. The norm of potassium sulfate is 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

Set your sprayer to a fine spray and spray generously on all the garlic leaves. This should be done in the evening, in dry, calm weather, so that the droplets of the nutrient solution fall on the leaves, do not dry out in the wind, but are completely absorbed. From organic fertilizers for top dressing, I use an infusion of cut green grass or weeds, to which wood ash is added.

How to make such a green fertilizer, I described in detail in the article "Tomatoes - how to feed and what kind of top dressing are." With a solution of this liquid "green manure" you can water the garlic under the root or make foliar top dressing.

Planting dates for garlic

There is another reason why the leaves turn yellow. This is a delay in landing. Beginning gardeners plant garlic in early autumn, for example, in early September. And you need to plant it about two to three weeks before the onset of stable cold weather.

For the Krasnodar Territory, this is November, for the middle lane - the end of September-October. Why is that? Garlic should only have time to take root, but not to grow. If we plant it early in the fall, then in the spring - after the snow melts - yellow leaves will appear.

They just got cold.

Garlic pests: onion fly, onion stem nematode

Pests can cause yellowing of garlic leaves. Examine the plants carefully. You noticed small worms at the base of the leaves. These are onion fly larvae.

How to get rid? What to process? You can get rid of them with a saline solution. To do this, take 200 g of table salt, dilute it in 10 liters of water. We spray with this solution.

The worms will disappear. The reason that the garlic leaves turned yellow may be a stem onion nematode. This is perhaps the biggest annoyance. It's useless to fight her.

It can live in soil, without water, food for 8-10 years. What does an infected plant look like? The plant starts to wither. The leaves lighten, curl, the bulb with cracks begins to rot. Dig up one head of garlic with yellowed twisted leaves.

If it is damaged by a nematode, then there will be rotten roots and a white or pinkish coating on the bottom of the bulb - these are small worms that can only be seen through a magnifying glass with a 10-20x magnification - they are 1.5 mm long and 0.5 mm thick. A white or pinkish coating on the bottom of the bulb is a pest accumulation.

What to do? Such plants will have to be destroyed. Next year, plant garlic, onions in another garden. How to process? Currently, there are no effective means of controlling the nematode.

Before planting, it is recommended to soak the garlic cloves in hot (40-45°C) water for at least 2 hours or in a 3% sodium chloride solution for 25-30 minutes at a temperature of 20-22°C. Such treatment will not completely destroy the nematode, but it will significantly reduce its number and restrain the spread of the pest.

In the future, take a closer look at the selection of planting material. The nematode loves acidic soils. Therefore, deoxidize the infected area with lime or dolomite flour. The nematode lives in plant debris, in lumps of earth.

Sow marigolds and calendula (marigolds) on infected areas. The fact is that marigolds and calendula attract a nematode with their smell; it goes to this smell, sticks to the roots, and the juice of these plants is poisonous to it and it dies. Let's now summarize, briefly list the reasons why garlic can turn yellow.

• The seedlings were frozen. The soil lacks the main nutrients - nitrogen, potassium. They planted too early - the garlic started to grow before the onset of cold weather. The planting material or soil is infected with spores of pathogenic fungi or a stem onion nematode. insufficient watering, dense soil can also cause yellowing.

Having determined the reason why your garlic turns yellow, you will be able to answer the questions yourself - what to do, how to process and feed. . Garlic begins to turn yellow from the tops of the leaves and further yellowing goes down. The result of this is that the supply of nutrients to the head of garlic decreases, the yield decreases.

In the Non-Black Earth Region, the most common cause of this situation, as a rule, is soil depletion, namely, a lack of nitrogen and potassium. Nitrogen and potassium, available for absorption from the soil by a plant, are different substances, but they are closely related to each other. If there is no potassium, the plant absorbs nitrogen (and phosphorus) much worse. The fact that there is not enough nitrogen can be recognized by the yellowness of the leaves, especially if they have a reddish tint. Even individual weeds can signal this problem by reddening of the leaf veins. In addition to yellowness, a potassium problem can be suggested by a narrow border that appears along the edge of the leaf.

The sheet looks as if burnt, the so-called "marginal burn" appears. At the same time, the leaves often grow unevenly, become thinner and drooping. Strongly sod (usually under trees) or acidic soil areas exacerbate the lack of nitrogen or potassium.

The best thing to do would be to check the soil for acidity before planting not only garlic, but also other crops. At present, instruments for measuring acidity are completely available to anyone interested in a good harvest. Their price starts from 500 rubles.

If necessary, the acidity of the soil can be reduced in one direction or another. The vast majority of cultivated plants grow well on neutral or slightly alkaline soils. Good luck if at the place of the proposed cultivation of the crop the soil is just like that.

Otherwise, the soil can be deoxidized. This is not such a complicated process, the effort and financial costs will pay off with an unprecedented harvest.

nitrogen deficiency

If there is a nitrogen deficiency, it is better to fertilize the soil for garlic with organic or mineral substances (created specifically for fans of "organic farming." There is no fundamental difference between one and the other type of fertilizer.

In any case, the plant consumes exactly what is necessary and useful for its growth and development. The irony is that in both organic and mineral fertilizers these are the same substances. The only difference is that the concentration of nutrients in mineral fertilizers is extremely high, of course, it is easier to overdo it with their quantity, especially if you do not read the instructions for use. But this does not indicate the dangers of fertilizers, but rather the closeness of the gardener.

For example, an excess of the amount of ordinary table salt can also be sent to the forefathers. Nitrogen fertilizers as top dressing should be introduced in the spring.

The reason for this limitation is that they were introduced in the fall before the onset of the planting season - springs will simply wash out of the soil, which was carefully prepared for planting. As nitrogen fertilizers use urea or urea.

As an option - complex fertilizer. The correct technology would be to make grooves between the rows of garlic (shallow, 1-2 centimeters) and lay fertilizer at the rate of 20 g / m, or according to the dosage according to the instructions. The grooves need to be leveled, then water the fertilized area.

To keep the soil moist, it is better to add dry humus or compost from above. You can do it differently. First, a fertilizer solution is prepared at the rate of 20 g of urea per bucket of water, then garlic is poured over it at the rate of 10 l / m. This method works more quickly, since the necessary substances immediately enter the plant.

potassium deficiency

In the event that it is suspected that the garlic is turning yellow due to a potassium deficiency, then foliar top dressing can help very well. It will give special success at the very beginning of growth.

For this purpose, either a complex mixture or potassium chloride is used as a fertilizer at the rate of 10 g / l of solution. It is better to do it in clear weather, in the absence of wind, by spraying with a fine spray, so that everything useful is absorbed exactly into the ground on which the garlic will grow. Many people use 100 g / m ash for potassium fertilization.

This technique is good for acidic soils, since it deoxidizes the soil and enriches it with mineral trace elements that the plant needs. From organic matter, manure is suitable at the rate of 100 kg per hundred square meters. Yellowing can be caused by a variety of factors, it would not be superfluous to compile a generalized list of them.

Causes of yellowing and methods of dealing with the problem

1. Soil depletion, lack of potassium or nitrogen. Apply top dressing in the spring with liquid manure or carbamide. With a lack of potassium - potash fertilizers or ash at the rate of 1 cup per 10 liters of water. Diseases. Their sign is yellow and brown stripes on garlic bulbs, twisted, withered leaves, stunted growth of the whole plant. To cope, we need prevention and quarantine, the use of fungicides and similar drugs. You can not plant garlic on the beds where onions or potatoes used to grow. Favorable is the neighborhood with mint, calendula, thyme, coriander. Pests. The symptoms are the same, but the source of the lesion can be found. Various methods will help to exterminate them - spraying, quarantine, the use of better quality seedlings. Garlic can turn yellow from too acidic soil. In this case, you just need to use methods to increase the low pH. It is especially important to water the garlic well in May-June. The use of agroperlite, as well as agrotechnical hydrogels, can give a good effect. Yellowing can appear due to violation of planting dates. If the garlic is planted too early in the fall, more than a couple of weeks before the hard frost, it will most likely turn yellow, as it germinated in the fall and its first shoots are frozen. By autumn, the garlic should only take root. Frosts in the spring are a predictable cause of yellowing. Bioactive preparations, for example, "Baikal EM-1", increase the frost resistance of the soil. Or as an option for those who have the opportunity to constantly monitor it, cover the seedlings at the frost stage with a film. If, nevertheless, frosts have damaged young plants, the situation can be saved with Zircon, Epin or similar preparations according to the recommendations on the package. The quality of the material for planting.

The article highlights the problems of yellowing of garlic greens during its growth. It brings together the most common causes of this phenomenon and information on how to eliminate them.

Pests and diseases of garlic

1. onion fly(length 5-7 mm) - gray with a slight green tint on the back. The larva reaches a length of 10 mm. She is white. Its larvae develop in July or August. onion hoverfly(7-9 mm) - green. The length of the larva itself is 11mm. It is dirty yellow or gray. To the touch - wrinkled. The flies themselves come out in June. They are able to lay eggs in a month and a half. The second generation appears in August. Onion thrips(0.8 mm) - an insect with fringed wings. The body is elongated, narrow. The color of the color is brown or yellow. The larvae of this species are white without wings. Onion Stalker(3 mm) - a beetle with a rostrum thin under the chest. His body is black, covered with white scales, because of this he seems slightly gray. Larvae are legless, 7 mm long. They are yellow-white in color with a light head. They damage the leaves, so they quickly turn yellow and disappear. onion moths(9 mm) - dark brown butterflies. Caterpillars are green with yellow stripes and spots. Onion stem nematode- the smallest white worm. 2 mm long, 0.05 mm thick. In order to examine it, it is better to take a magnifying glass with you, as it is already very small. root mites(0.8 mm) - eight-legged ticks with an oval whitish body. Damages varieties of onions and garlic in the ground and already during storage. four-legged tick(0.2 mm) - a tick that has only two pairs of walking limbs. It has an elongated body.

Yellowing garlic: the main causes

The second main reason for the yellowing of garlic after a lack of nutrients necessary for growth in the ground can be safely called such a reason as diseases and small insect pests. But, as with people in such a situation, garlic diseases, it will be easier to prevent than to treat, after the onset the first signs of a disease that has appeared, because in this case the amount of the crop will be definitely less even with the use of high technologies in the field of crop production. One of the preventive measures to avoid garlic damage by the disease can be moderate watering - no more and no less than necessary. Despite the medicinal properties, which garlic possesses for people, it itself is subject to various diseases that are very common in temperate latitudes, such as black mold, bacterial and white rot, fusarium, bottom rot.

Garlic leaves can turn yellow at any time during the growing season - in the spring after germination, in the summer, and even before harvesting. In any case, before taking action, you need to find the cause.

If you find yellowed leaves on a freshly sprouted winter garlic, then there are two reasons: early planting in the fall or a cold winter with little snow.

It is necessary to choose a month for planting garlic before winter, taking into account the climatic conditions in the region: in the southern regions it is planted in November, in the middle lane - in October, and in colder areas it is necessary to carry out planting work in late September or early October. This is not an exact schedule, because in one year autumn may be late, and in another - the cold comes suddenly and the heat does not return. In any case, it is important to follow the weather forecast.

When planting garlic in the fall, it takes 2-3 weeks of warm weather for the cloves to grow roots. If planted earlier, then the growth bud awakens and the leaves begin to grow. Being in the frozen ground, the leaves freeze and this is the reason that in the spring they look out of the ground already slightly yellowed.

The same thing can happen if the garlic is planted on time, but there was little snow in the winter. The teeth freeze, and the stem germ is damaged. This can be avoided if plantings in late autumn are covered with a thick layer of fallen leaves.

Ascended winter garlic may turn yellow in the spring due to nightly return frosts. If this happens often in your region, then shoots for the night should be covered with non-woven covering material.

It is impossible to restore damaged foliage, but you can give strength to the plant if you treat it with Zircon, Epin or other growth stimulants. New leaves will grow green.

Another reason why garlic turns yellow may be nutrient-poor soil.

How to feed garlic so that it does not turn yellow

Fertilizers should be applied at planting, or in the spring. Organics are introduced in the fall, and mineral dressing is carried out after germination.

Fresh or poorly rotted manure is contraindicated because it may contain pest larvae or pathogens. Well-rotted manure or decomposed organic matter is added to each hole at planting. One handful is enough for one clove.

In the spring, it is best to apply mineral fertilizers: ammonium nitrate, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added to one ten-liter bucket of water, 5 grams each. This solution is enough to fertilize 1 sq.m. landings.

Another option is to dilute 1 tablespoon of urea in 10 liters of water and shed the beds. And potassium sulfate to carry out foliar top dressing. For these purposes, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate is diluted in 1 liter of water and sprayed on seedlings in the evening. The weather should be calm and dry.

Pests and diseases

If freezing and lack of nutrition are excluded, then the cause may be fusarium, white rot, stem nematode or onion fly.

Fusarium is a fungal disease. First, the tips turn yellow, then the leaves begin to dry out, and the stem dies. On the pulled out bulb, the roots are rotten, the bottom is usually also rotten. Fungal spores can be seen on damaged areas.

White rot begins with yellowing of the lower leaves, gradually affecting all leaves and stem. The bulbs become soft and covered with a white coating. Plant death occurs quickly.

The affected plantings are dug up and burned, the soil is treated with a fungicide and garlic is not planted in this place for 5 years.

Nematodes are small worms that descend through the stem to the cloves of garlic and feed on their pulp.

The onion fly lays eggs near the garlic seedlings, from which the larvae appear after a few days. They penetrate the bulbs, and, like nematodes, feed on juice and pulp.

Landings damaged by pests can no longer be saved. All garlic is removed, burned, and the soil is shed with insecticides.

Folk remedies to combat the yellowing of garlic

You can protect against pests by carrying out prevention using folk remedies.

To combat nematodes, cloves prepared for planting are disinfected. There are several ways:

• 2 teaspoons of salt are dissolved in 3 liters of water and teeth are soaked in it a day before planting;
• stand for several hours in a solution of bright pink potassium permanganate;
• prepare an infusion of wood ash and place teeth in it for 2 hours;
• heat the water to 50 ° and place the cloves in it for 10 minutes. Cool down in cold water.

The onion fly must be repelled. She begins to fly during the flowering of dandelions. Spraying is carried out with a solution: 300 grams of tobacco dust, 2 teaspoons of ground black pepper are mixed with 3 liters of water and infused for 3 days. Add 6 - 7 liters of water and a little thick soapy solution for stickiness. They spray not only the stalks of garlic, but also the ground nearby. The treatment interval is 1 time per week from the moment the buds appear on dandelions until mid-June. In July, processing is carried out again.

What to do if the tips of garlic leaves turn yellow

If only the tips of the leaves turn yellow, then it is likely that the reason is a violation of soil moisture. In the spring, watering is not started until the soil dries out properly after the snow melts and spring rains. Watering should be done once every 7 or 10 days, but only if the weather is dry. In rainy weather, watering is not required. The soil between the rows of garlic should be cleared of weeds and loosened between waterings. Crust on the soil surface is not allowed.

Prevention

Preventive work includes:

• choosing only high-quality and healthy garlic for planting;
• soaking the cloves before planting in order to disinfect them from pathogens and make them “tasteless” for pest larvae;
• fertilize each hole, and if this is not done, then fertilize in the spring, after germination;
• compliance with the irrigation regime, weeding and loosening;
• marigolds or calendula can be planted between the rows of garlic. Their smell repels many insects;
• plant garlic in one place no more than once every five years;
• when working, use clean garden tools.

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