Draining in your house with your own hands. We do the drainage of water in a private house with our own hands

The decision to make a cesspool yourself remains an ideal choice for a situation with the inability to connect to the central sewer. Such a structure solves the problem of ensuring the disposal of waste and sewage for a private house. The choice of this option is due to simple installation, easy maintenance and small financial investments necessary for construction and further operation.

The very device of this simplest and most ancient sewer system is a recess dug and equipped with walls in the ground, designed to collect and partially process wastewater. Partially filtered liquid enters the soil below, and the accumulated residue must be periodically removed so as not to overload the container.

A light wooden structure is installed above the recess. After filling the pit, the upper part is removed, and the remaining space is covered with earth. The accumulated elements go through the process of decay and turn into compost. Fruit trees planted here will thrive in a fertilized area. And you can use the new building.

But this method is clearly insufficient for the needs of a large building in which many people constantly live. In this case, for large volumes of waste, modern structures with walls made of various materials are needed. Most often for these purposes is used:

• brick is a great masonry option even for beginners;
• concrete rings, the delivery and laying of which requires special equipment;
• cost-effective way of arranging from tires;
• metal barrels that prevent shedding of side surfaces;
• the use of ready-made plastic barrels has a long service life - more than 40 years.

Mention should be made of a convenient and modern option - the use of septic tanks. These products are made in multi- and single-chamber modifications. The most complete and deep cleaning of waste occurs in models equipped with several chambers. Purified water is suitable for watering vegetable gardens.

The cesspool device involves the installation of two types - sealed and filtering. In the first case, there is an accumulation of effluents until the time of their pumping. The second one provides for the presence of holes in the walls for partial penetration of waste into the ground. To carry out filtration around the tank, it will be necessary to lay a gravel-sand layer with a thickness of at least 15 cm.

According to the requirements of sanitary safety, there must be at least 1 m of soil from the bottom of the infiltrating type structure to the groundwater table.

The purpose of such a recess is drains from storm sewers and drainage.

With a large amount of household waste, there is always a risk of soil contamination, which can only be prevented by arranging a sealed system.

Principles of design and preparation of sewage pits

A carefully designed project and competent planning will help to avoid problems during the construction process in terms of existing norms and rules. First of all, attention should be paid to the most important points:

1. Safe location in terms of sanitary requirements.
2. The choice of the type of system depending on the specifics of the site and housing construction.
3. Decide on the dimensions of the recess.
4. Plan the production technology in advance.
5. Prepare appropriate materials.

Each of the items in the above list has its own nuances, the implementation of which is very important for safe and reliable operation.

• The place where the structure will be located must necessarily be remote from fences, residential buildings, wells. From a drinking water tank, for example, the distance is maintained at least 25 meters, and from the house - starting from 5 meters.
• With existing relief irregularities placement at the bottom of the site should be avoided. Flooding during periods of heavy rains and snowmelt threatens to contaminate the soil and groundwater. Construction technology is selected from the characteristics of the soil in the surrounding area.
• Dimensions are primarily calculated taking into account the number of residents. For one person, a daily volume of 0.5-2.0 cubic meters is planned. m of drains. The need to pay for each call of equipment, with the help of which the cesspool is pumped out after it is filled, requires one more rule to be followed - to make the volume of the structure a multiple of the capacity of the sewage machine.
• The task of diverting drains is solved using the technology of an eternal cesspool. The design feature of this method is the construction of two containers, interconnected by a special branch pipe under a certain slope. After filling the first tank, the liquid flows into the second. This technique allows you to significantly increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsoil for water drainage, and only large fractions and feces will accumulate in the main pit.
• A do-it-yourself cesspool of a hermetic design is a recess with a concreted bottom. The main advantage of such a device is the complete isolation of sewage and the absence of any odors on the site and in the house itself. But relative disadvantage is fast filling and frequent emptying, especially in the presence of washing machines and dishwashers, intensive use of the bathroom and shower.

A careless approach to planning and performing installation work threatens with the following consequences:

• unpleasant "aroma" inside the building and on the site;
• freezing of water residues inside sewers;
• penetration of harmful substances into the soil.

Careful execution will create a favorable and comfortable environment for living and recreation. You only need to clean the cesspools on time and periodically monitor the condition of the system.

Let us consider in more detail the features of the construction of different types of such a sewer system.

Arrangement of a brick cesspool

• as far as possible from any buildings;
• take into account the direction of groundwater flow;
• provide access for the sewer.

Sizes are always an individual choice. There is no doubt that a deeper device will require less frequent cleaning, but one should never forget the level of groundwater. Closer than 30 cm to them, you can not place the bottom.

How to make a cesspool if the water is close to its location?

In this case, there is simply no alternative to the sealed type of device. In the case of a shallow depth, you can increase the length dimensions or use a multi-tank design. But it is not recommended to dig more than 3 meters even in dry ground.

The standard option for a residential building with 4-5 people living in it is a depth and diameter of 3 meters.

Buy only red ceramic bricks. Silicate and cinder blocks will get wet pretty quickly and will be unusable. The best material is burnt brick, rejected for construction because of its irregular shape.

The construction process consists of several main stages:

1. Digging a pit is the most time-consuming procedure. With manual work, two people can dig a 1.5x3 m hole in sandy soil within a couple of days. But clay soil will cause a lot of difficulties and will require the use of hired workers or an excavator. The shape for the pit is usually chosen in the form of a glass with a slight expansion towards the top, giving additional reliability.
2. The foundation must begin with the process of backfilling the soil with gravel and sand. This layer is poured with concrete with preliminary laying of reinforcement. Usually the thickness of this layer is 15-20 cm and depends on the diameter of the pit.
3. Wall laying is done in half a brick with a size, and in brick - with a large diameter. The proportion of cement and sand in the mortar is usually 1:3 and 1:4. After completion of this stage, bituminous mastic is applied to the walls.
4. A ready-made pancake with a hatch hole of the appropriate size is used, as well as a self-poured lid.
5. At the end, the overlap is covered with a layer of earth with the location of the manhole cover slightly above ground level.

Video of arranging a cesspool made of bricks:

Over time, any structure becomes clogged. Various methods are used for cleaning. Biologics for latrines remain one of the best methods to ensure accelerated degradation of waste and increase the life of such sewer systems.

How to make a concrete cesspool

The use of such elements will be an ideal option for the safety of soil and plants located near the place where wastewater is stored.

In the usual version, 2-3 concrete rings with a diameter of 1.5 m and a meter height will be required. If a family of 3-4 people lives in the house, then to pump out the total volume of the structure of 4.5 cubic meters. m will have to call a special vehicle on average once a quarter.

How to make a cesspool in a private house from concrete rings - the sequence of installation work:

• under the required slope below the freezing point of the soil, drain pipes leaving the building are laid and insulated;
• a pit is dug with a width exceeding the diameter of the rings by 80-90 cm. A pillow of 30 cm of sand, fragments of brick or gravel is poured into the bottom of the recess;
• a crane or winch will be needed to lower the concrete elements;
• first place the ring with the bottom, using the building level to avoid distortions vertically and horizontally;
• a waterproofing layer of bituminous mastic is applied to the inner surface and joints;
• free space is filled up and carefully compacted;
• a reinforced concrete slab is laid on the last ring and a metal or polymer cover is attached.

There is a high probability of accumulation of methane and sulfuric gas released during decay in the tank. For their output, a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is installed.

How to make a concrete cesspool video:

Instructions for the manufacture of sealed and filtration cesspools

After selecting the area for the location of the drain tank and having all the calculations, earthworks can begin. With the help of earth-moving equipment or manually, a pit of the required dimensions is prepared. Usually, an excavator is involved for such events, but the specifics of the site do not always allow special equipment to drive to the required place.

In such a situation, you can apply the old tried and tested method - install one ring in place and start picking up soil from under the walls with a shovel. It is important to control the level of the product. After leveling the upper cut of the element with the level of the soil, another ring is set and the sampling of the earth continues in the same way.

To make a cesspool yourself, you will need to prepare materials for the walls, a formwork board and prepare the following components:

• sand and cement the desired brand for mixing the solution;
• crushed stone and rubble for the manufacture of a filtration layer;
• rebar or rod useful for arranging the cover;
• corner or suitable hatch metal with frame;
• waterproofing materials;
• suitable container and buckets for mortar;
• mason's tools;
• plumb line, building cord and level;
• set of bayonet and shovel.

When working on a large scale, you can rent or ask neighbors for a concrete mixer.

Decoration of installation sites for cesspools

It will not be difficult to disguise the sewer from prying eyes because of the layer of earth with which it is covered. After that, there are many ways to decorate - sowing a lawn, laying out flower beds, planting shrubs. Sewer hatches are ennobled with stone and wooden elements. The owner of the site can show all his imagination and creative ingenuity in this process.

The photos below show examples of beautiful decor.

An excellent example of the manufacture of a luxurious lid, which is equipped with a septic tank for cesspools, can be viewed on the video:

How much does it cost to make a cesspool on the site

When determining the costs for the construction of a sewer collector, one should proceed from the fact that the arrangement of a small capacity is not economically feasible. It is best to start calculating the total cost for devices from 3000 liters. Several major factors affect your financial investment. To make a cesspool whose price matches your capabilities, you should analyze the following parameters:

• the cost of materials for the selected type of device;
• prices for the services of specialists involved in the construction.

For example, let's take a cesspool structure of two rings of one and a half meters in diameter. A neck is supplied with these elements, the presence of which will completely hide the main part below ground level.

If you order a turnkey installation, then the calculation includes:

1. A complete set of materials, including concrete preparation components, waterproofing and a manhole.
2. Delivery depending on the distance to the installation site.
3. Digging followed by backfilling of the pit.
4. Mounting measures for the installation of rings.
5. Concreting the bottom of the well.

At the moment, all these stages will cost the customer 30,900 rubles.

When performing such work on their own, professional builders recommend paying attention to the following points:

• to fill a three-cube tank, about one and a half cubic meters of soil will be required. You can leave it, and take out the rest immediately after arranging the pit;
• having concreted the bottom, let the mixture stand for 10-12 days to achieve optimal strength;
• brickwork can not be done very smoothly. It is hidden from view and performs the main function - to restrain the soil from shedding;
• for formwork, it is best to take a profiled sheet or board;
• bayoneting the mixture used to fill the ceiling contributes to a good pouring of the reinforcing cage;
• carefully tamp and level the soil around the entire perimeter and on top of the well.

An extensive choice of designs allows you to build a device according to financial capabilities and needs. One of the main conditions is the observance of sanitary standards in terms of protection against environmental pollution.

Regardless of whether a private house is connected to a central or autonomous sewer, the sewage disposal system on the street must be equipped independently. Before starting this work, it is necessary to develop an installation scheme that allows you to get by with the minimum size of the pipeline and sewer wiring.

This will reduce the cost of purchasing material and increase the efficiency of the wastewater disposal system. Particular attention should be paid to the depth of pipe laying, the angle of their inclination and the reliability of flange connections, since the performance of the sewer depends on these parameters.

Connecting a private house to the sewer

Circumstances and layout of external sewage

The outer part of the sewer system in a private house connects the outlet of the internal drain with a waste storage tank located on the site, or with a central sewer, with a pipeline network. Read about the internal wiring in the house in the article. Laying of external sewer pipes is carried out according to a scheme developed in advance, taking into account the following circumstances:

• terrain features;
• weather;
• remoteness of wells and reservoirs;
• the total volume of effluents, depending on the number of people permanently residing in the house;
• the depth of soil freezing and its composition;
• ways of access of the car of a vacuum truck if necessary.

In the scheme of laying the external sewage system, it is imperative to provide for its ventilation, since otherwise, over time, unpleasant odors will penetrate into the living quarters. Read about the rules for the sewer ventilation device in the article. Ventilation is equipped with a fan pipe, which can be placed on the lid of the septic tank or on the section of the pipeline that runs from the house to the wastewater storage tank.

Scheme of arrangement of autonomous external sewerage

The septic tank is equipped at the lowest point of the geological relief of the site. This arrangement allows you to most optimally perform the installation of external sewage. It should be laid in a straight line to the location of the outlet pipe of the internal sewage disposal system.

Choosing a drain location

When choosing the location of the drain, you should, first of all, make sure that the unpleasant smell does not penetrate into the living quarters. As a result, it should be located no closer than five meters from the house. The optimal distance will be ten meters, it is also not worth placing a septic tank too far, since this significantly increases the cost of laying the pipeline network. The external sewage connection to the house should not be carried out at a right angle. In addition, the following must be taken into account:

• water sources should be located no closer than thirty meters;
• a septic tank cannot be installed on the border of a neighboring plot;
• for the convenience of pumping out sewage, it is better to place drains near the road;
• especially careful sealing of the storage tank is needed when the groundwater is located close;
• the laying of the pipeline network facilitates the natural slope of the terrain.

Rules for placing a septic tank on the site

A cesspool for sewerage has been used since ancient times. Previously, they did not waste energy on sealing its walls, and when the pit was filled, it was covered with earth and a new one was dug out. Now the walls are made of bricks, concrete rings and other building materials.

Liquid waste fractions seep through the soil at the bottom, being filtered, solid components gradually fill the mine, and after a while they need to be pumped out.

The arrangement of a cesspool is advisable if the volume of wastewater in a private house does not exceed the value of one cubic meter per day. If this limit is exceeded, environmental pollution will occur.

Instead of a cesspool, you can equip a sealed container for the accumulation of wastewater. In this case, a thorough waterproofing of the bottom and walls of the shaft is performed. Thus, the possibility of contamination of the soil and drinking sources is prevented. The disadvantage of this system is the need for frequent cleaning, since the sealed container fills up rather quickly.

Decide on the type of treatment plant

Treatment facilities for a private house are equipped in the form of a simple cesspool without a bottom or a sealed wastewater tank. To improve the filtration of wastewater allows a single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning or a two-chamber septic tank with a filter well. A variant of the construction of three chambers with a filtration field, as well as with the use of a biofilter and an air supply system is possible.

Tire filtration septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank, in essence, is a cesspool with a drainage layer. Crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand is poured at the bottom of the well. Passing through the filter layer, the liquid fractions of the waste are cleaned before entering the soil. After some time, the drainage layer must be replaced, as silt deposits are deposited on it. A single-chamber septic tank is suitable for a private house with a small amount of wastewater.

A two-chamber septic tank consists of a storage tank and a filter well, which are connected by an overflow pipe. In the sump, the faeces are partially clarified, then they fall into the mine with a drainage layer at the bottom. They seep into the soil already sufficiently cleaned.

A two-chamber septic tank is a popular sewerage option for a private house, as it does not require large financial costs for its equipment and works efficiently.

Installing a septic tank of two or more chambers, as well as a filtration field, virtually eliminates the possibility of environmental pollution. Settling in the first tank, the partially clarified effluent through the overflow pipe enters the next chamber with anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic residues. Read about how to make a septic tank with your own hands from improvised materials in the article

After successively passing through all sections, the effluent enters the filtration field, which is an underground area of ​​about thirty square meters, where the final soil cleaning takes place. If there is free space on the site, this method of arranging sewage is optimal.

Diagram of a septic tank with a biofilter

A septic tank with a biofilter is a station for deep sewage treatment. According to the principle of operation, it is similar to a treatment system with a filtration field, only in this case it is replaced by a water separator and anaerobic bacteria settled at the outlet of the overflow pipe into the fourth section, which cleans the wastewater by approximately ninety-five percent. Such water can be used for technical needs.

It is irrational to install deep cleaning stations in private houses with periodic residence, because if the sewage system of this design is not used constantly, the bacteria that decompose organic residues die. In addition, they are quite expensive.

Sewer pipe laying depth

The depth of soil freezing is a fundamental factor when deepening sewer pipes into the ground. They must be laid below the freezing point, otherwise they will freeze in winter, and it will be impossible to use the sewer until the spring thaw. The appearance of even small ice growths on the internal surfaces of pipelines leads to a decrease in their permeability and the formation of blockages.

Map of normative freezing depths

In the southern regions, the depth of laying sewer pipes is fifty or more centimeters, in the central regions - seventy or more centimeters. You need to know exactly the depth of soil freezing in your area in order not to go deeper into the ground than necessary, since in this case the cost of doing the work will increase.

Organization of the withdrawal of the sewer pipe from the house

The organization of the withdrawal of the sewer pipe from the house depends on the stage of readiness for operation of the building. If the house has just been built, shrinkage of the foundation is possible, therefore, drilling a hole in it to bring out the sewer pipe should be of a noticeably larger diameter than the cross section of the pipe itself.

Variants of schemes for the withdrawal of sewerage from the house

In the event that the house is just being built, the outlet pipe can be walled up during the laying of the foundation. The foundation of a house built several years ago will no longer settle, so the diameter of the hole drilled for the outlet pipe does not need to be increased. Plumbing fixtures should be located at a short distance from the common drain, since in this case it is easier to connect them to a common outlet. If the house has two or more floors, the bathrooms should be placed one above the other, in which case one riser can be dispensed with.

Do-it-yourself installation of external sewage in a private house

The external sewage system consists of a cleaning tank and a piping system connecting the septic tank to the house. Before performing installation work, an external sewerage scheme is applied on the site plan.

Practical options for removing sewers from the house

Then special pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm are selected, intended for outdoor use. They are usually orange in color. A trench is dug to lay the pipeline. Its depth is selected depending on the climatic features of the area, the composition and characteristics of the soil, as well as other factors. If necessary, the pipeline network is insulated.

The most time-consuming part of the work when installing a sewer with your own hands in a private house is digging a pit for a cesspool or septic tank. The optimal distance at which the septic tank is removed from the house is about ten meters.

The volume of storage capacity directly depends on the number of people permanently residing in the house and the frequency of their use of plumbing fixtures.

It is best to connect the storage tank to the outlet of the internal sewer in a straight line, bends and turns of the pipeline system increase the likelihood of clogging. For the convenience of cleaning, a long line in places of change of direction must be equipped with inspection hatches.
This is what a properly equipped external sewer looks like

Wastewater moves through the pipeline system by gravity, under the influence of gravitational forces, so you need to maintain the correct angle of inclination. If it is too small, large fragments of waste will be retained and the sewer will become clogged.

If the slope is too great, solid fractions will be thrown to the walls of the pipe, and again it will become clogged. Information on the correct sewer slope can be found in the article.

The desired angle is maintained and controlled by the building level when digging a trench, its depth increases as it approaches the storage tank or central sewer. A shock-absorbing cushion is laid at the bottom of the ditch, which is a sand mound, pipes are laid directly on it. If it is necessary to change the slope of the pipes, sand is poured in the right place.

An important operational parameter of the sewer system is the depth of the pipeline network. It must necessarily be below the freezing point of the soil in the region. Otherwise, in winter, frozen sewage can break the pipeline network and disable the sewer. To carry out repairs will have to wait for the spring thaw.

How to properly equip pipe insulation

To prevent the occurrence of emergencies in the cold season, it is better to perform thermal insulation of the sewer. Many modern materials, such as polyurethane foam, fiberglass or mineral wool, have good thermal insulation qualities. You can properly equip the thermal insulation of the pipe by simply wrapping it with insulation and placing it in a sheath made of a mixture of asbestos and cement.

Options for insulation of external sewerage

You can also fix a plastic film over the thermal insulation. In cold northern regions, to protect sewer pipes from freezing, the insulation layer is additionally equipped with an electric heating system. In any case, the pipeline network must be laid below the freezing depth of the soil, especially if snowdrifts melt in the spring on the surface. An interesting experience in laying outdoor sewer pipes can be gleaned from the following video.

Citizens, using plumbing, as a rule, do not think about where the waste water then flows. But the owners of country houses often have to solve the problem of waste disposal on their own. Consider how to properly make a drain hole. After all, it is this popular version of local sewage that is the simplest, cheapest and most affordable for self-construction.

When landscaping the house and the site, the first thing they do is to build water supply and sewerage systems. Since it is quite difficult to imagine a comfortable life if you need to carry water from a well.

There are a lot of options for organizing wastewater disposal, but the simplest and therefore very popular is the construction of a drain pit. Consider how to make a drain pit with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professional builders.

Types of drain pits

For all its simplicity, the drain pit can have a different design. Here are the most common options:

• sealed pit.
• filter hole.
• Double pit.

sealed pit

This version of the local sewage system is the safest for the environment, since all drains from the house disappear into a sealed sump and remain there until they are pumped out by sewers.

Thus, there is no risk of contaminated water entering the soil and soil water, that is, the presence of this type of sewerage on the site does not affect the ecological systems. The disadvantage of this waste disposal option is the need to regularly pump out the accumulated liquid.

Filter drain pit

Sanitary rules allow the construction of filter-type drain pits only if the volume of wastewater per day is less than a cubic meter. If there is little wastewater, they have time to be recycled through natural decomposition. Pits of this type can be built for a bath, as well as for a house in which there is a separation of drains.

In the latter case, two sewer branches and two drain pits are constructed. In the first (filtering type), drains from the shower room, from the washbasin, washing machine are transported, that is, relatively clean. In the second (sealed type), drains from toilets and the kitchen should be transported.

Two-chamber drain pit

Another practical solution to the problem of how to build a drain pit is the construction of a two-chamber installation. Consider the principle of operation of such a treatment plant:

• The pit consists of two chambers connected at the top by an overflow.
• The first chamber is sealed, the second is filtering.
• Drains (undivided) come from the house to the first sealed chamber, where they are mechanically separated, that is, they are simply settled. Solid inclusions sink to the bottom, and relatively pure water overflows into the second chamber.
• From the second chamber, water is filtered into the ground.
• Waste that accumulates in the first chamber should be pumped out periodically.

Advice! So that the drain pit can be cleaned less often, it is recommended to use special biological products. Bacteria recycle organic matter, reducing the amount of solid waste.

Construction planning

Before you make a drain pit, you should draw up a construction plan. It is necessary to decide on the type of structure, choose the place of construction and determine the required volume of tanks.

How to determine the volume of the drain pit?

The main indicator on which the volume of the drain pit will depend is the intensity of use of a residential facility. It is clear that a larger pit is needed for a house than for a summer residence.

Advice! Of course, it is better to determine the volume of effluents individually, but there are generally accepted norms. So, for a family of three people permanently residing in the house, a pit with a capacity of 6 cubic meters should be built.

When determining the volume of the tank, the following factors should be taken into account:

• Availability of sewer services.
• The volume that sewage equipment can pump out at a time.

Where is the drain hole located?

• Soil water should lie deep enough on the site, since the minimum depth of the pit is two meters.
• If there is a source of drinking water nearby, then a pit should be placed at a distance of at least 30 meters from it.
• The cesspool cannot be placed on a slope.
• Provision should be made for the availability of free passages for servicing the pit.
• You can not have a hole next to the house and the fence of the neighboring area. The minimum distance to housing is five meters.

In a word, it is quite difficult to choose a place for construction, especially if the site is already equipped. However, you cannot deviate from the above rules.

The choice of material for construction

For the construction of a sealed pit, the following materials are used:

• Concrete solution. A formwork is being built into which the mortar is poured. The thickness of the walls and the bottom should be at least 7 cm, it is advisable to reinforce with a steel mesh.
• Plastic containers. This is the least labor intensive option. A pit is being prepared, in which a finished plastic container is installed.

Advice! To exclude the possibility of deformation of containers under the action of soil pressure, as well as its floating up during spring floods, it is recommended to concret the walls and bottom of the pit. When concreting the bottom, special fastening loops are laid, to which the plastic tank is tied with polymer belts.

• concrete rings.
• Ceramic brick.

When choosing the last two options, you have to carry out additional measures to seal the seams. To do this, the brickwork (or the joints between the rings) is treated with mortar from the inside, the bottom of the pit is concreted.

Additionally, from the inside, the walls are covered with a bitumen solution, and from the outside they are covered with a thick (20 cm) layer of greasy clay. And what is the best way to overlay the drain pit if a filtering version of the treatment plant is being built? There are no less options. Great for:

• Brick. The walls should be laid out so that between the rows there are five-centimeter gaps arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
• Reinforced concrete rings. Manufacturers specially produce rings for the construction of drainage wells, they are perforated. If it was not possible to buy such rings, holes in solid products can be made independently using a perforator.
• Old car tires. From this improvised material, you can easily assemble a drainage well. Tires are stacked one above the other, having previously cut off the lower rim on each of them.
• Old plastic or metal barrels. For the construction of the pit, a barrel without a bottom is used, while a number of holes are made in its lower part for better water filtration.

Stages of construction of a drain pit

Let's consider how to properly make a drain pit, provided that the work is done independently:

• Construction begins with the preparation of a pit and trenches for laying a supply pipeline.
• The pit should have a greater depth than the planned depth of the drain pit, since a drainage cushion is arranged at its bottom.
• The drainage cushion is made by pouring a layer of sand and gravel, each layer is qualitatively compacted.
• If the pit is airtight, then the height of the layers can be 10-15 cm. Either a ready-made reinforced concrete slab should be placed on top of the drainage pillow, or a concrete screed should be made.
• If a filter pit is being built, then the crushed stone layer should be at least 20 cm so that the drains are better cleaned and the bottom does not silt longer.
• Next, the walls of the tank are strengthened, that is, brickwork is performed, concrete rings or plastic containers are installed, depending on the chosen construction material.
• If a sealed tank is being built, then after the walls are strengthened, they are waterproofed.
• At this stage, the connection of the supply pipeline to the receiving tank is also carried out. The connection of the pipe with the tank must be airtight, but not rigid, so that it does not collapse under the action of soil movements. It is convenient to use rubber couplings.

• At a distance of about 40 cm from the surface of the earth, an overlap for the pit is arranged. As a rule, a finished reinforced concrete slab with a hole for a hatch is used as a floor. If desired, such a slab can be cast independently, having previously constructed the formwork.
• Alternatively, thick boards can be used to build the floor, but in this case, it will turn out to be less durable.
• A hatch must be made in the ceiling to check the filling of the pit and pump out its contents.
• It is advisable to install on the cover and the ventilation pipe. Indeed, in the process of decomposition of waste, various gases are formed, including methane, which is explosive. Therefore, it is better to provide for the possibility of ventilation.
• From above, the overlap can be covered with soil. The soil must be filled with a mound to prevent rainwater from flowing into the pit.

So, if it is planned to arrange a local sewerage system, the construction of a drain pit is one of the simplest, but at the same time convenient and practical options. It does not hurt for beginners in the construction business to visually see how to make a drain pit - a video describing the stages of work can be found on construction sites.

If there is no centralized sewage system near the house, then the arrangement of a cesspool can be considered as a solution to the problem. In any house where there is a supply of hot and cold water supply, there is a problem of collecting and discharging sewage.

A cesspool is the easiest sewer option in a private or country house that you can do yourself.

Where should the cesspool be located?

To start, need to decide on a location on which the cesspool system will be equipped.

• directly on the site adjacent to a private or country house;
• arrangement is possible at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a residential building and other buildings on the backyard territory and to structures located in the neighborhood;

Important! This requirement is based on the fact that with a closer installation of a leaky pit without pumping out, the destruction of the foundations of nearby buildings, as well as their flooding, is possible.

• the distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated and must be at least one meter;
• depth should not be more than 3 meters. When choosing, you need to take into account the depth of the passage of groundwater;
• the pit must be at a certain distance (25 meters) from drinking wells.

Given distance depends on the type of soil in the backyard:

• With clay soil - no closer than 20 meters;
• With loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters;
• With sandy and sandy soil - a cesspool cannot be installed closer than 50 meters from the well.

Do-it-yourself cesspool device

There are two main types of pit arrangement:

• sealed;
• plain without a bottom.

The option of arranging sewerage in a country or private house is determined by the location of the territory, the daily amount of wastewater and the material capabilities of the owner of the site:

• if the daily amount of sewage is not more than one cubic meter, it is possible to build a simple system without a bottom and without pumping. In a pit of this type, effluents partially go into the ground, in which they are cleaned by anaerobic bacteria. An example of this cesspool is the classic rural toilet;
• with a large amount of wastewater (more than a cubic meter), the construction of a sealed structure is required, which needs to be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is explained by the fact that in the absence of a bottom in the pit, waste water passes into the ground and cleaning is carried out by microorganisms located in the depths of the earth. But their cleaning capabilities are not unlimited.

With large amounts of wastewater, microorganisms cannot cope with water purification. In this case, wastewater will begin to pollute the adjacent area and it is possible that they will pass into the water-bearing soil layers with further contamination of the drinking well.

If you need to dispose of a large amount of wastewater, you can consider the arrangement of a septic tank with filtration fields.

Do-it-yourself ordinary sewer

The simplest waste system is done like this:

• digging a pit up to two meters deep, two meters wide and up to three meters long;
• the walls of the earth are laid or fixed;
• a layer of crushed stone is poured down;
• a protective cover with a cover is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

• ease of operation;
• low cost of construction and operation;
• simple and quick DIY construction.

Disadvantages of a pit without a bottom:

• groundwater level must be below the level of the sewage system;
• not suitable for sewerage of a large amount of sewage water;
• environmentally unsafe;
• possible unscheduled filling due to rainwater;
• has an unpleasant odor.

Sealed waste pit

A sealed sewage system is a sealed container where sewer water is pumped out through pipes. As the tank fills, sewage water must be pumped out with a special machine.

The main advantages of a sealed system:

• the installation site does not depend on the type of soil on the site;
• does not depend on the passage of groundwater;
• environmentally friendly, sewage water does not enter the environment.

Cons of sealed design:

• there is a smell if the drive is made in the form of a well;
• monthly costs (you need to periodically call a sewage truck for pumping);
• relatively high construction cost.

What to build a drain pit with your own hands

Consider the different types and methods of designing drainage systems that you can do yourself. They are conditionally divided into permanent and temporary.

From car tires

If you need a drain system for a toilet in a country house at minimal cost, you can make it yourself using old car tires.

This is a quick and budget option for the construction of a sewer pit. The design is pretty simple. A pit is being made, where old tires are stacked one on top of the other. A layer of crushed stone is poured on the bottom of the pit, if desired, the tires are sealed with a clay lock.

Advantages:

• if necessary, easily restored;
• durability;
• speed, simplicity and low cost of construction.

Disadvantages:

• tires rot over time;
• the possibility of a negative impact on the environment with a high load on the structure;
• rapid siltation with insufficient cleaning and pumping out, as a result, useful area is lost.

From concrete rings

This is another way to quickly build a drain system. Its design is similar to a well. Rings are stacked on top of each other. The connections between them, if desired, are sealed with a cement screed.

By its design, a sewer pit made of concrete rings refers more to hermetic structures. That's why you need to pump it regularly. Although there is an option to install a septic tank from concrete rings.

Main advantages:

• convenience of the device of a protective cover with the hatch;
• durability;
• the possibility of building with your own hands;
• relatively low cost.

Disadvantages:

• the possibility of an unpleasant odor from the ventilation pipes;
• the need for periodic pumping;
• laborious installation.

Drainage pit made of bricks

This is the most successful and optimal option if you need a drain system for a toilet or bath in a country house.

Advantages:

• ease of construction - almost any summer resident can handle bricklaying for a drain pit;
• environmental friendliness - the contents of the drain structure are periodically pumped out by a sewage machine.

Disadvantages:

• siltation. It is possible to prevent silting with the help of constant pumping out of the liquid in the storage tank;
• relatively short service life (up to 20 years), as a result of the destruction of bricks in unfavorable conditions of the drain system;
• Periodically, an unpleasant odor is likely to form. The use of various preparations that accelerate the processes of waste decomposition and timely pumping out of the drive can help to cope with this.

Construction of a brick pit

First you need to decide on the installation site of the drain pit, observing all the rules and taking into account ease of use.

We choose a design. Given the purpose, a drain brick pit can be rectangular, square or round.

We calculate the required volume, dimensions and prepare the pit for the pit.

With a rectangular design, we tilt the bottom towards the installation of the hatch. We pour a sand cushion at the bottom of the pit, with a layer of 20 cm and fill it with cement mortar. You can take a finished reinforced concrete slab of the required size. A cement screed is made on top.

We do wall laying. The optimal thickness of the walls is 30 cm. It is advisable to lay the walls in a checkerboard pattern in half a brick. Laying in a quarter of a brick is possible.

Then, when the walls are ready, you need to treat them with bituminous mastic or make a clay castle from the outside for better sealing. If necessary, then plaster the inner surface.

Installation of the hatch and ceiling

Then, when the base of the drain pit is ready, we install a ceiling with a hatch. Overlap is required not less than 50 cm close the hole around the perimeter.

In the role of overlap, concrete slabs are chosen or logs are carefully laid. When arranging the cesspool floor, it is necessary to provide a location for the hatch. The hatch is made in the size of 70 cm.

On top of the stele overlap, waterproofing from a film or roofing felt. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil measuring 0.5 m.

Attention! To protect against the appearance of a smell from the drain pit and its freezing, the hatch into the pit is installed double. The top cover is located on the surface of the earth, and the other at the level of the ceiling. The space that has appeared in the bow is filled with heat-insulating materials (slag, expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.).

Sewer pit from a barrel

This is an excellent option for arranging do-it-yourself water runoff with natural cleaning of the cesspool with small amounts of runoff (up to 1 cubic meter).

Barrel preparation:

• we use a 200 liter barrel, best of all from a material that does not corrode, we make holes in the wall in a checkerboard pattern for drainage with a drill or grinder. It is desirable to make holes with a distance of 15-25 centimeters;
• we tightly fasten a pipe to the bottom of the barrel for connecting a drain pipe. To ensure sealing, you can use silicone sealants. We process the connection area of ​​the pipe with mastic;
• we wrap the barrel with geotextile and firmly fasten it with twine. This is necessary to ensure that the tank is protected from soil and other foreign particles entering its structure while maintaining normal drainage.

Installation of a cesspool sewer system:

• we make a trench and lay sewer pipes, certainly with a slope;
• we prepare a pit with a depth and size slightly higher than the depth of the barrel;
• down the pit we fall asleep gravel or gravel with a layer of 20 cm;
• we put a barrel on this pillow and connect the drain pipe;
• the resulting space between the walls of the pit and the container is filled with gravel or gravel;
• We connect the sewer pipe to the installed pipe.

Now the sewer pit for your bath is ready. You can also make a drain hole for the toilet with your own hands.

As an option for arranging a home sewer system, you can consider installing a cesspool concrete drain pit.

Stages of construction of a concrete pit:

Using this technology, you can also make a drain hole for the toilet with your own hands.

Summarizing

There are quite a few options to build a drain cesspool yourself. Choosing a specific solution, taking into account specific conditions and material possibilities. You can also consider installing a septic tank or buying a ready-made kit for arranging a drain pit.

A cesspool is a special recess in the ground designed to collect sewage and other human waste in those houses that are not connected to the drainage system through pipelines.

Today we will look at one of the most popular designs of drain pits - a pit without pumping.

Device

The device of the cesspool begins with the choice of a suitable place. There are three key rules that are used to select the optimal location:

1. the pit should be at least 12 meters away from the nearest house where people live;
2. from the pit itself to the place of the fence, the distance should be no more than 1 meter;
3. the distance to groundwater should be taken into account, it should be over 30 meters.

After that, they begin to calculate the optimal size, and there are also several patterns here:

• calculate the number of residents, as well as the average rate of water consumption per person (approximately 180 l), calculate the monthly value of the volume of wastewater;
• taking into account the soil where the pit will be located, it should be taken into account that those soil types that easily pass liquid make it possible to accept only 40% of the monthly volume, and the soil that does not conduct water well will force the volume of the pit to increase above the calculated value;
• it should be remembered that the soil layer should be at least 1 meter;
• the optimum depth is about 3 meters.

materials

Now the most widespread types of materials used in the construction of a cesspool are:

• bricks;
• reinforced concrete rings - similar to those used in wells. So, you can do;
• tractor;
• special hermetic containers made of polypropylene and other polymeric materials, but are the most expensive means.

Scheme

In general, the scheme of the cesspool looks something like this: the pit itself represents a pit in the soil of a certain size, in the middle of which, in order to maintain its original shape, as well as to prevent the crumbling of the walls, there are solid materials such as bricks, reinforced concrete rings, etc. around the perimeter of the pit. Outside, directly between the soil itself and the outer wall of the pit, there is a layer of clay called "clay castle".

A prerequisite is the presence of a vent equipped with a pipe for venting gases generated by fermentation processes in the pit. The final and most important detail is the presence of a hatch that will provide access to the pit for its regular.

Manufacturing instructions

Consider the 3 most simple options for building a pit.

from brick

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit with a brick lining:

1. to begin with, with the help of a thread and stakes, mark the selected area - on average, the parameters of the pit are 1 by 1.5 meters;
2. to fill the pit at the end of the work, about 1.5-2 cubic meters of soil will be needed, the rest of the earth mined during the digging process should be evenly distributed over the surface;
3. if it is planned to drain wastewater through pipes, then you should dig a trench under the pipe in advance;
4. at the bottom of the excavated pit, apply a 15-centimeter layer of sand, on which apply a layer of concrete of the same thickness;
5. with a sharp object, by “piercing” this layer, remove excess air bubbles;
6. after the concrete pad hardens, lay a sewer pipe (if any);
7. after that, proceed with the laying of the facing walls, placing the bricks in a checkerboard pattern using a sand-cement mortar;
8. to increase the life of the cladding, also apply the solution directly to the outer part of the walls;
9. at the end of the cladding, apply a layer of bitumen to the walls;
10. make indentations in the ground 20 centimeters around the entire circumference;
11. from corrugated board, build a vertical partition around the perimeter of the pit;
12. reinforce the overlap by using rods, reinforcement fastened together with wire;
13. evenly fill the formwork with a concrete solution and let it dry for 25-30 days;
14. carefully remove the formwork with the frame, making sure that the structure is strong.

From the rings

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit using reinforced concrete rings:

1. dig a pit, maintaining the most round cross-sectional shape;
2. mark the territory on which the pit will be located;
3. fill the bottom with a layer of concrete mortar;
4. build a metal frame using reinforcement bars, which will have to evenly distribute the mass of the rings over the entire area and protect the concrete pad from premature destruction;
5. after the concrete has hardened, you can begin to install the rings;
6. the joints of two adjacent rings must be filled with a concrete solution;
7. the outer part of the rings should be covered with a layer of bitumen;
8. after mounting all the rings, they should be closed with a concrete cover, the joint is also filled with mortar.

Made of plastic

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit using plastic containers:

1. dig a pit, given that in this case it will be much larger in size than in the previous two cases;
2. make the bottom as even as possible;
3. pour a 15 cm layer of sand on the bottom and compact it well;
4. gently lower the tank to the bottom and fix it in a stable position;
5. connect the inlet pipe of the tank to the drain pipe;
6. fill the free space between the tank and the walls of the pit with soil or sand;
7. pour a small volume of water to see how the reservoir compensates for the pressure on the ground. If the walls of the tank gradually bend inward, then the tank is not installed correctly.
8. completely fill the pit with soil.

Required tool

The main tool for the personal construction of a cesspool is shovel. It is optimal to have both a bayonet and a shovel, since it is more convenient for one to directly dig a pit, and the other to throw soil to the surface.

Be sure to have a bucket and a rope to pull out the earth. You will also need a wheelbarrow to remove the soil from the pit. Have a tape measure or other measuring device handy. To descend into the pit, you should purchase a ladder.

Considering that it will be necessary to make a mortar from cement, then if it is not possible to use a concrete mixer, a separate container should be allocated for preparing the required volume of mortar.

Mounting highlights

As mentioned above, the first and main point of installation is the accuracy of the preliminary calculations based on specific needs. Then follows the correct selection of the location of the cesspool, taking into account the planned type of pit, for example, a pit with or lined with bricks will be narrow and deep, and a pit with a tank will be wide, but not so deep.

When choosing the option with reinforced concrete rings, it should be taken into account that their installation will require the help of a truck crane due to their high mass and fragility of the structure during falls. The option with bricks and a tank can be mounted by hand. It should also be noted that in order to extend the service life of a plastic tank, its outer part should be sealed with a layer of soil.

When laying pipes through which sewage will pass, it should be remembered that they must be below the freezing level of the soil.

Common Mistakes

Practice shows that often when arranging a cesspool, mistakes are made such as:

• incorrect performance of preliminary calculations in terms of volume and location;
• insufficient depth of the pit;
• weak strengthening of the walls of the pit, as a result of which shedding occurs
  walls;
• the outlet pipes are parallel to the ground, and not at a slight angle;
• neglect of the rules for the installation of concrete rings.

The question often arises before the owners of private houses,.

Do you want to apply modern methods for cleaning the toilet in the country? In you will learn how to choose bacteria for the toilet.

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