Stairs to 2nd floor. Stairs in the country to the second floor (48 photos): design

If you are planning to build a two-story private house or a country cottage, then at a certain point in the construction you will need to take care of the construction of a staircase to the second floor. Not everyone can make a staircase with their own hands - for this you need to have certain carpentry skills, and some experience, as well as enough free time. Wouldn't it be better to take advantage of an advantageous and.. offer from our professional company in Moscow. We offer stairs for every taste, color, style and economic opportunity of our customers. And with the current price list and with 100 magnificent photos of designs you can find in the presented article.

100 photos of the most beautiful stairs for every taste

Before proceeding to get acquainted with the incredible variety of ladder systems from a domestic manufacturer in Moscow, let's get acquainted with the theory a bit - and what kind of ladders exist in nature.

Types of ladder systems depending on the design

So, stair structures to the second floor are divided into the following types:

screw

Spectacular and compact products, complex in manufacturing method, but with a magnificent view. Their main advantage is their small size, which makes it possible to place the structure even in a very small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

Photo 1.

marching

This type of ladder structures is the most common and in demand. This is explained by the simplicity of the circuit, reliability, conciseness and relatively low cost.

Photo 2.

Combined

This type of stairs is a great solution for those who want to combine the advantages of the two types listed above - compactness from a screw design and practicality from a marching system.

Photo 3.

Types of stair structures depending on the material

Today, modern manufacturers offer consumers an incredible number of all kinds of ladder systems from materials such as:

• Tree of various breeds;

Photo 4. The cost of wooden stairs is also very different, it all depends on the value of the wood. For example, an oak product with handmade railings will cost much more than a beech or spruce staircase.

• Marble and other natural mineral;

Photo 5.

• Ultralight metal alloys;

Photo 6.

• Forged construction;

Photo 7. Forged stairs are grandiose and magnificent. The high cost of such work is more than compensated by the incredibly spectacular appearance of the product.

• Concrete system;

Photo 8.

• Combined designs that include several materials at once in one product - wood, metal, stone.

Photo 9. Stair structures that combine several types of manufacturing materials at once are a real work of art that can transform your home beyond recognition

Our specialized enterprise in Moscow offers its customers modern, safe and beautiful staircase designs for every taste. In the assortment of the company you will find a huge number of ready-made products, and you can also order a staircase according to an exclusive original project.

Photo 10. Spectacular and high-quality products from the company "Profi Stairs" will perfectly fit into both modern and classic interiors.

Huge selection of inexpensive stairs in Moscow

In a huge and diverse catalog of our company, ready-made stairs are presented at attractive and competitive prices, classified in the following areas:

• modular designs;

Photo 11. The modular system will perfectly fit into any modern interior.

• wooden crafts;

Photo 12. Wooden stairs - stylish, reliable and environmentally friendly

• stairs for cottages;

Photo 13. Stairs for cottages will certainly decorate the interior of your home

• structures of the second floor;

Photo 14.

• products to order;

Photo 15. Order a ladder from us and you will transform your home beyond recognition

• spiral staircases;

Photo 16.

• products with forged elements

Photo 17. Stairs decorated with forging are always in trend

• metal structures and other types.

Photo 18. Metal stairs are suitable for a stylish country house

Staircase designs for every taste

Photo 19.
Photo 20.
Photo 21.
Photo 22.
Photo 23. Photo 24.
Photo 25.
Photo 26.
Photo 27. What kind of stairs do not exist in nature - order an exclusive design for yourself
Photo 28. The staircase will create coziness and emphasize the style of your home.
Photo 29. Wood is the most versatile stair material.
Photo 30.
Photo 31.
Photo 32. Straight staircase in the style of "minimalism"
Photo 33.
Photo 34. Design construction of the second floor
Photo 35. Cozy wooden staircase for a country house
Photo 36.
Photo 37.
Photo 38.
Photo 39.
Photo 40. One of the incredible designs
Photo 41. Classic is always in fashion Photo 42. Photo 43. Photo 44. Forged products - grandiose and magnificent
Photo 45. Photo 46. Photo 47. Photo 48. Photo 49.
Photo 50. The price of a ladder product depends on many factors - the complexity of the design, the cost of the material, the exclusivity of the design
Photo 51. Ladder with wide steps and a slight bend is absolutely safe to use
Photo 52. Thanks to forged elements, the design looks light and airy.
Photo 53.

Price list for stairs from a company in Moscow

Let us consider in more detail with the indication of prices for each of the types of stairs presented by our company, indicating their current price.

Modular stairs

Photo 54. Modular staircase "Duet" with steps made of natural oak
Photo 55. Construction "Duet" with steps made of beech - an economical and effective product for your interior

Modular stairs series "Elegant" - a great solution for a stylish interior at affordable prices, presented below:

Photo 56.56 335 rub.
Photo 57.50 390 rub.
Photo 58.51 321 rub.
Photo 59.44 290 rub.
Photo 60."Prestige" with a turn of 180 degrees - price 47 160 rub.
Photo 61. Direct "Prestige" - 42 748 rub.
Photo 62."Solo" of a direct design - a stylish and effective product at a reasonable price 70 858 rub.
Photo 63.78 498 rub.
Photo 64. 180 degree reversible design "Modern" - exclusive and fashionable design at an affordable price 125 262 rub.
Photo 65. Staircase with a turn of 90 degrees series "Modern" cost 120 030 rub.
Photo 66. Product "Super Elegant" with 180 degree rotation has a price 108 277 rub.
Photo 67.113 118 rub.
Photo 68.

wooden stairs

This type of stair products will appeal to those who appreciate natural wood, simplicity and reliability of the design. The material used for the manufacture of these stairs is environmentally friendly, beautiful and reliable.

The construction of a two-, three-story cottage involves the presence of a staircase. Without it, access to the basement, underground garage, attic space will be problematic.
It is important not to forget that the staircase is a complex engineering structure. Its design and construction cannot be carried out according to the residual principle. The location, material, project is determined in advance. The wooden staircase to the second floor is the most beautiful option for your choice.

For private households, the use of two main types of stair climbs is typical: marching and screw. Marching - with one or more spans separated by intermediate platforms. The most spectacular, but also expensive are screw. It is recommended to involve specialists with relevant experience in their construction, calculation of the number and width of steps.

In this article, we will consider in more detail all the popular types of stairs, their advantages and disadvantages. But you need to start with the choice of wood:

• maple looks good, varnishing will emphasize the structure. But when bending, cracks and breaks will appear on the surface;
• beech is considered one of the most durable options, but is not intended for use in conditions of high constant humidity;
• oak is both durable and beautiful. The only drawback is the high price;
• larch and pine are budget options. Approved for use subject to antiseptic treatment from rot and bugs.

How to make a wooden spiral staircase to the second floor with your own hands

If, in accordance with the plan of the house, a minimum space is allocated for the placement of interfloor passages, the screw modification will be indispensable. It is mounted both in the center of the room, hall or corridor, and against the wall.

Types of spiral staircases

There are four main types depending on the method of fastening steps:

• directly to the central, supporting column, assembled from metal parts, lined with brick or stone;
• treads are placed on top of each other. Their intersection becomes a support column;
• with fastening to stringers or bowstrings. The central support may be absent or used as an additional element that provides strength. Railings and bolts are used as a link;
• steps in addition to the stringer or the central rack are attached to the wall.

Benefits of a spiral staircase

The first thing to mention is the elegant appearance. The number of design and finish options is endless: from gothic and wrought iron railings to high-tech and postmodernism. There is no feeling of "heaviness", a light "transparent" design does not distract attention, while visually "increasing" the height of the ceilings.

Do not forget about saving space. Not everyone has the opportunity to allocate half the floor for the placement of stairs. And modern technologies and materials make it possible not to spend half of the state on organizing transitions from floor to floor.

Important points during construction

A spiral staircase is built subject to the following criteria:

• the distance between floors or intermediate platforms is at least 2 meters;
• for the manufacture of the central support, a pipe with a wall thickness of 4 mm or more is used. Column diameter - 50-60 mm and more;
• at the support, the depth of the steps is not less than 10 cm, at the railing - 40 cm. For treads in the shape of a rectangle, the optimal depth is 20 cm or more. For one full turn (3600), at least 12 steps up to 1 meter wide are required. Moving two at the same time is quite difficult, not to mention lifting or lowering furniture.

You can build a spiral staircase yourself. But the calculation of the number of treads, their height and turn requires special knowledge. To avoid mistakes and subsequent rework, it is better to contact specialists, at least at the design stage. If you decide to go through all the stages yourself, listen to the following tips:

• the best material is beech or oak wood. It has good strength, can withstand decades of operation;
• there should be no sharp edges or nicks. After sanding and sanding, all wooden parts are varnished with parquet;
• the first baluster is not attached to the first step, but to the floor next to it for greater structural strength.

Straight wooden staircase to the second floor

A single-flight span is the easiest way to organize movement around the house. It has both advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include:

1. simplicity of design, ease of movement and a minimum of preliminary calculations. Even with little experience, but with due diligence, the manufacture and installation of stringers can be completed in a few days;
2. it is enough to make a sample of the tread and riser, and cut out all the details on them in the future;
3. if space along the wall is chosen for placement, then it is advisable to fasten one edge of the steps to a brick or concrete partition to increase strength.

There is also a disadvantage to be noted. Ideally, the slope ranges from 26-450, and the stairs take up a lot of space. You will have to decide where to place it and what to do with the space under the stairs.

Design parameters

It is not worth neglecting the design stage even if we are talking about 2-3 steps. The project helps to determine both the appearance and the overall length and other technical characteristics. Regardless of the wishes of the owner in terms of registration, the requirements of SNiP remain the same for all modifications of flights of stairs:

• step height - no more than 20 cm. Both the riser and the tread itself are taken into account;
• depth - not less than 25-30 cm;
• when calculating the width, they are guided by the dimensions of the doorways. The standard prescribes that a flight of stairs designed to move one person should not be narrower than 80 cm;
• boards are selected well-dried with a thickness of at least 4 cm, without knots, cracks, or other defects that can lead to deformation. If you are ordering wood parts to be made in-house, make sure they are the same size, sanded, sanded and polished.

Why do you need a layout

Construction work begins with a plywood layout. Don't give up if you don't have enough experience. It is better to spend a few extra days, but avoid fatal mistakes.

Exact copies of stringers, risers and treads are cut out of plywood. They are assembled, "fitting" at the installation site. The dimensions, ease of use, placement of balusters under the railing are being specified. It is quite possible that you will have to add / reduce the number of steps, adjust the height of the lowest one.

The layout is ready, we proceed to work on the original

If the plywood copy is completely satisfied, proceed to work with the boards. It is not necessary to immediately install stringers or bowstrings at the place of permanent placement. Assembly is done on the floor. First, risers are mounted, then tread. Hats of fasteners (nails or wood screws) should not protrude above the surface.

For fastening to the floor and stairway, special mounting loops or parts are used, which are laid in the floors during the construction of the main building.

Upon completion of work on the steps, proceed to the installation of railings: from wood, metal, profile pipe. A specific option is selected taking into account the general style, wall material, floor. On each tread, experts recommend placing one baluster. The presence of crossbars - individually. It is advisable to install them if there are small children in the house, or the railings are made of metal. On a wooden structure, crossbars are unnecessary.

Stairs with 90 degree turn

If the space for placing a flight of stairs is limited or the structure has more than 10-12 steps, experts recommend making an intermediate platform with a turn of 90 or 180 degrees, mounted in the walls of the house from two or three sides.

Calculations of the number and width of treads are carried out in the same way as for a standard single-flight span with a small exception. Does the turntable consist of winder steps? They are designed as a spiral staircase. At the narrowest point, the depth is at least 10 cm, at the widest point - 40 cm.

To facilitate calculations, millimetric paper is used. On it, in compliance with the scale, the upper and lower spans, the transition platform are drawn, winder steps are laid. In the middle line, their depth is not less than 20 cm. Otherwise, it will be problematic to go up / down. Do you critically evaluate your own abilities in drawing? Refer to special calculation programs distributed free of charge.

If the turntable does not provide for the use of winders, a frame is prepared corresponding to the width of the marches. For fastening the frame-platform are used:

• one or two walls of the house;
• common kosour;
• support pillars. They are subsequently used as a base for a built-in wardrobe in the under-stair space.

For reliability, it is recommended to make a draft version of plywood or waste board. The turntable is a complex structure. Correcting errors is almost impossible. On a plywood layout, it is easier to correct the number of steps or the angle of rotation if there are inaccuracies in the calculations.

Installation of stairs with a turn of 90 degrees

• kosour is attached to the wall with anchor bolts;
• support poles are installed if they are provided for by the project. They can be concreted into the floor and further strengthened with mounting loops with bolts;
• an external kosour is attached to the supporting pillars. At each stage, slopes, the presence / absence of deviations from the plan are carefully checked;
• on stringers or bowstrings in the grooves, risers are first attached, then treads. For greater strength, it is recommended to glue all seams;
• installation of the upper span ends with the installation of winder steps. The presence of gaps between structural parts is unacceptable;
• railings and balusters are installed last.

Do-it-yourself wooden staircase to the second floor with a 180 turn

In a private house, situations are not uncommon when there is no place for placing a direct mid-flight staircase, and it is undesirable to build a spiral staircase. For example, elderly people live in the building. In this case, you should pay attention to modifications with a rotation of 1800, made using one of two technologies:

• two marches “meet” at an intermediate interfloor platform, equal in width to the spans plus an additional gap separating them. The site can be capital (reinforced concrete slab) or wooden on supports or built into the wall. For each run, a standard calculation is performed;
• in place of the site - winder steps that form a turn. The option is more difficult to manufacture, but more ergonomic. When ascending / descending, you do not have to change the pace of movement. But, it must be borne in mind that the running treads have a trapezoidal shape. Navigating them is more difficult than standard rectangular ones.

Project development

on a sheet of graph paper, projections of the stairs are drawn vertically and horizontally in compliance with the scale;

• the steps of the upper and lower flights are marked, taking into account the requirements of SNiP for height, depth, width;
• They do the same with refugees. In the simplest case, there will be four. But this option may be inconvenient if the site is large. Also, experts recommend making cross-country steps not only directly on the site, but also part of the nearest marching ones, in order to make the movement more comfortable;
• the basis of the whole composition is the central support pillar with a section of 10 x 10 cm or more. Both span stringers and winder steps in the narrow part are attached to it.

Installation of stairs with a 180 degree turn

Preparation of holsters with grooves for treads: two shorter ones and four long ones. The short ones reach the support post, the long ones reach the wall behind the transition platform. The stringers of the lower span are attached with anchor bolts to the support beam of the floor of the first floor. In the upper part - either to the pole or to the wall. The stringers of the upper span are attached to the ceiling, pillar and wall;

• for treads, risers (if any), a transition platform, a board with a thickness of 4 cm or more is used without knots, notches that can ruin the structure;
• All details are cut according to the template, carefully polished. At the initial stage, risers are installed, then - treads. For fixing, self-tapping screws with a flat head and glue are needed. It is possible to replace self-tapping screws with dowels;
• transition steps are set. The wide edge is attached to the wall, the narrow part - to the support post;
• at the last stage, railings are mounted. Holes are drilled in the steps. For fastening, bolts with a length of at least 10 cm or wooden studs are used. The lower (uppermost) baluster is located on the floor, even before the first step.

Outdoor wooden stairs to the second floor

The construction of a wooden staircase on the street practically does not differ in technology from the process indoors. The type of construction is selected, the number of steps, the parameters of the transition platform are calculated. There are also nuances:

• wood does not like moisture. There are several ways to avoid excessive water absorption and rapid destruction, for example, place it under a canopy. It is necessary to choose types of wood that are resistant to water, such as oak or larch. But at the same time, the project significantly increases the cost. You can make railings and treads from wood, and use metal or reinforced concrete for load-bearing structures;
• under the lower supports, a tape or is equipped. Otherwise, subsidence is inevitable. Mounting loops are attached to the ends of the stringers, followed by embedding in concrete. So the design will become more reliable.

How to paint a wooden staircase

The staircase is ready, the railings are installed, the steps are lined, decorative panels and strips are mounted, masking stringers and fasteners. It's time to move on to painting or varnishing.

The industry offers different options for paint and varnish solutions. Each of them deserves separate consideration.

Alkyd paints

• dry quickly;
• the composition includes special substances with the effect of antiseptics to protect against insects and putrefactive processes;
• allowed for indoor use, non-toxic, do not cause an allergic reaction;
• wide range of colors.

Acrylic paints

• drying time is minimal;
• no unpleasant odors;
• dyes do not change color and saturation under the influence of sunlight or artificial light;
• the color palette is able to satisfy the most sophisticated taste.

Oil paints

• minimum cost;
• the structure of the tree is not preserved during painting, the surface "does not breathe";
• with intensive use of the stairs, it will be necessary to periodically re-stain;
• dries for a long time while maintaining an unpleasant, pungent odor.

Enamel paints

• ideal for indoor work, as they dry very quickly;
• in the composition there are no toxins and elements that give a pungent odor;
• in the course of work it is necessary to ventilate the room in a constant mode. It is advisable not to work during rainy or high humidity periods.

Lucky

• most of them are not recommended for outdoor use, as they do not withstand low temperatures;
• dry quickly;
• preserve and emphasize the structure of the tree;
• the surface is smooth (provided that at least 3 layers are applied) and shiny;
• it is better to choose alcohol-based options;
• The "yacht" modification cannot be used for interior design due to the high content of toxic substances and an unpleasant odor that persists for a long time.

wood stain

• it is used both as an independent tool for wood processing, and as a base for paint;
• preserves and emphasizes the structure of the original material, has fire-retardant properties, especially in combination with polish layers.

Experts say that the best option for painting indoor stairs are alkyd paints. For greater effect, they are varnished on top.

Painting options

The stairs are painted in one of two ways:

• before installation. Each element is colored separately. Assembly work begins after complete drying. The main difficulty in this case is not to damage the layer of paint or varnish during assembly, drilling holes;
• after installation. There are options here. If the second floor is residential, and the staircase is the only one, they paint through the step. After the first "batch" dries, they move on to the second.

If it is possible not to use the second floor yet, or an additional descent is provided, painting is carried out without passes. This option is preferable, as there will be no color variation.

Regardless of the chosen staining method, at least 5 hours must be added to the time specified by the manufacturer. The direction of the strokes is along the grain of the wood.

The subtleties of staining pine stairs

Pine boards require special handling. Resin is actively released on their surface. If it is not removed before staining, the paint will lie unevenly, will not penetrate deep into the structure, and will darken in places over time. Removing resin is a mandatory step in the work.

For deresining, a 25% acetone solution is used. It is applied to all surfaces, followed by wiping with a damp cloth. Apply paint or varnish after complete drying. If there is too much resin in certain areas, it is recommended to cut them out and putty the surface for leveling.

General technology for painting a wooden staircase

• cleaning the surface from debris, construction dust, chips;
• grinding, priming chips, cracks, scratches;
• after the soil has dried, a new sanding cycle is carried out with the removal of debris;
• Ideally, the surfaces are primed again 24 hours after the initial treatment. But this only applies to coloring. The tree is not primed under varnish;
• paint or varnish is applied in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. It is not recommended to choose both too hot days and rainy ones for work;
• in the process of staining, there should be no dripping drops on the surface;
• varnish is applied in 3-5 layers.

When choosing a color, you need to focus on your own preferences, the style of the room, the design solution of the house. If steps or balusters of several colors are planned, then it is better to paint before the assembly process.

Building a staircase to the second floor with your own hands is a difficult task, but not hopeless. With a little effort, everything is done in a few days.

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The modern development of the construction of private houses is increasingly resorting to the construction of two or three-story houses. Therefore, the construction in a private house is an important point. Of course, you can turn to specialists in its construction, but we recommend building it yourself.

Staircase to the second floor in a private house

The staircase, as a complex building element, has its own characteristics and mandatory constituent elements. Consider the composition of the stairs to the second floor of a private house:

• The balustrade is the railing of the stairs.
• Balusters - fence posts in the form of small columns, the child's head should not pass between them, so the maximum distance does not exceed 15 cm.
• Railings - railings.
• Pillars - supports for beams and ceilings.
• Bolts - metal bolts that are needed as fastening steps to the walls.
• March - rise from the steps. For him, the slope is important, since the safety of the stairs depends on it.
• A bowstring is a supporting column for holding the stairs in a given position and adjusting its load. Depending on the use of the bowstring, a bowstring ladder or a stringer ladder is distinguished. The bowstring uses grooves, and the stringer uses a special form for laying steps.
• Riser - the vertical part of the step for support.
• Transitional platform between marches.
• The step itself, consisting of a tread and a riser.

Stairs to the second floor in a private house are most often made of wood, as it is an environmentally friendly material that looks stylish and attractive.

Video: beautiful stairs to the second floor

Features of different types of stairs

Wooden stairs to the second floor of a private house can be of two main types. Let's explore each of them below.

Spiral stairs

This type is usually chosen when the space for its installation is limited or small. The minimum size of the site for it may be limited to one and a half meters. There are limitations for this option - several people cannot use it at the same time - only one, and it also makes it difficult to lift bulky and voluminous objects along it.

It is also characterized by increased complexity of installation, and therefore does not have great popularity for collecting it on its own. It is important for her to calculate the reliability of the bearing and support racks, and it is also important to observe the strength of the structure.

Marching stairs

Another thing is mid-flight stairs, which are considered the most commonly used in private homes. They come with 1 march, as well as 2, 3 or more - the number of marches depends on the needs of the owner of the house and the availability of free space.

In addition to dividing by the number of marches, such stairs are divided into straight and rotary, and by location they are divided into wall or independent. The latter often rest in the center of the room and can only be allowed to owners with a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house.

It is easy to assemble a marching staircase on your own, and experts give useful advice on dividing marches with more than a dozen steps. You can separate the steps with a special platform, which can change their further direction, while in this case special turning steps are used, which have a different name for trapezoidal or winder steps.

Stairs with a turn also differ in direction. So, if it turns at a right angle, then it is called a quarter-turn, and when it turns around its axis, it is called a half-turn. A spiral staircase turns into a full circle, which can no longer be considered a marching staircase.

An intermediate version of a circular and mid-flight staircase is considered a combined type. This is the most difficult type of stairs, as it requires a lot of calculations and complex elements. It is extremely rare to find her.

Related article:

Technical requirements for the design and correct calculation of parameters

The dimensions of the stairs to the second floor of a private house are calculated based on the availability of free space in the house. Assess your strengths and capabilities, whether you can assemble one or another complex type of structure without proper skill and experience. It is better to choose a simple ladder than to rebuild it several times. In addition, complex stairs require a large budget.

To correctly assemble the stairs yourself, use the following helpful tips:

• A drawing with measurements will help you determine the location of the stairs and its best option.

• A comfortable and safe staircase is paramount, so check out the optimal parameters for tilt, turn and step size.

• Steps should not be less than 20 cm wide - such minimum dimensions ensure the convenience of walking along it.

• The angle of elevation is a maximum of 45 degrees, otherwise it will be inconvenient.
• Consider the degree of stress and choose the right material. For a residential building, a non-slip coating with a load of up to 350 kg per square meter is suitable.

• If there are children in the house, make the stairs as secure as possible - watch the distance between the beams and increase the level of the fence.
• The optimal span width is 1 meter plus or minus 12 cm.
• To calculate, use the method of substituting the stairs of a right-angled triangle with the parameters you are interested in. The leg of the floor will need to be divided by 20 cm (minimum step width) and thus the number of steps will be obtained. The height of the step is calculated by the formula for the height of the rise divided by 10-12 cm. You can determine the width yourself.

For the manufacture of stairs, you will need some useful tips:

• It is not necessary to draw a drawing yourself, you can find ready-made ones on the Internet and adapt them for yourself or take a ready-made one.

• If you make the details yourself, then use only quality wood, dry. Parts must be perfectly polished and exactly match the parameters of the drawing or finished patterns.

Do you want to learn how to make a wooden staircase to the second floor with your own hands? Drawings and our recommendations will help you with this. Making a simple staircase with your own hands in a private house is quite within the power of a beginner. But be patient. Lots of information.

Where to put

The staircase connects the two floors, but takes away their usable area. Therefore, look for the area under it so that:

• do not remove or move walls;
• do not affect the wiring and communications.

After making measurements of the area of ​​​​the stairs, you need to add 50 mm for each side for a cosmetic finish.

Parameters and calculations

• the angle of inclination of the stairs is ideally 45 °, at 60 ° it is much more difficult to go up and down and the steeper the ladder, the more uncomfortable it is for movement;
• step width - 30 cm - this is an ideal parameter for a size 45 foot. You can take 28 cm, but no less, since it will be uncomfortable to walk, but you should not take more than 30 cm - you will constantly stray;
• step height - 20 cm;
• step depth - 30 cm, up to 35 cm it will be comfortable;
• step for balusters - 15 cm, but if the width of one baluster is less than 5 cm, 2 pieces must be placed on the step;
• the minimum allowable width of the stairs is 80 cm, but it is better to take 90 cm, or even better - 100 cm - this is the most comfortable width;
• if the width of the stairs is more than 110 cm, it is recommended to make a wall handrail - a fence along the wall.

Remember that it makes no sense to use someone else's finished drawing - there are always nuances in terms of the parameters of your own area and the features of the room. Ideally, you can use programs to create structures. For example, is different.

Draw a sketch of the stairs, but only after you decide on the type, which we will talk about a little lower. Consider all the parameters we have indicated and feel free to proceed to the drawing of the stairs. Do not worry, after reading the entire article, everything will become clear to you.

Types of stairs and calculations for them

Today, 5 types of stairs are in demand:

• on stringers;
• on the pains;
• on the casing pipe (their more common name is spiral);
• folding (attic or retractable);
• combined.

The main thing you need to think about is the base of the stairs (stringers, casing or bolts) and steps (with risers or open). There are additional elements - balustrades (platforms between marches) and railings with decorative additions.

Staircase on stringers

Kosour - these are obliquely placed beams on the sides of the stairs, due to which the steps are held. They are:

• straight, in which the steps are between straight beams, which makes the whole march straight;
• jagged, in which the upper part of the beams is cut with teeth, which is why the steps seem to be superimposed or built into the beams;
• rounded, in which the staircase looks curved or with a slight bend.

What you need to remember when choosing a ladder on stringers:

1. Such a ladder is usually made of wood.
2. It turns out to be very heavy, mainly due to decorations and balusters.
3. Given the design, the stringer staircase dominates the interior of the house.
4. Wooden steps are bound to creak over time. To avoid this, polymer thin gaskets are used at the installation stage.

So, let's proceed directly to the creation of stairs on the stringers.

Preparatory part

You will need braids. These are usually solid boards with a thickness of 40 mm. Please note that these beams should not be flawed. Before mounting the stringers, markings are made on them and openings are already cut along it for the installation of steps in the future.

An alternative way to make braids:

The steps are polished smooth boards without cuts and irregularities. All of them must be ready before the installation stage. The same applies to risers, if they are present in your design.

As for the railings and balusters, it is quite difficult to create a design model at home, you need to order them or buy them ready-made.

Assembly step

To mount the stringers in the upper part of the span, cuts are made on the floor beam, especially for installation. You can use metal stops. They are attached to the ceiling with anchor bolts. Fastening should be as reliable as possible.

A support beam is mounted on the floor, which is located on the line of the lowest step. It also needs to be secured with anchor bolts.

The steps are installed in already pre-cut sectors and fixed with glue. You need to start from the bottom march. It is more comfortable. If there are risers, they are also fixed at the stage of installation of steps, as well as treads. If you decide to use polymer gaskets to prevent squeaking, they are also installed at this stage.

To install balusters, first install the lowest and highest of them. A thread is pulled between them so that the rest can be installed along it. Balusters are fixed with screws or self-tapping screws, which is then hidden with grout or a plug.

The handrails are mounted last on the balusters.

Final stage

When the ladder is mounted, it is polished, especially paying attention to the ends and butt joints. The wooden stairs are varnished. You can use a wax solution, paint or any other protective agent.

You can watch another very good video about the simplest but most reliable ladder:

Spiral staircase

Usually, such stairs are not made by hand, but they buy a ready-made set of parts that are already assembled at home. This is due to the fact that not all parts in the design will be made of wood. In particular, the main rod - the central pillar - is usually made of metal.

The set of spiral staircase must contain:

• central rod;
• steps.

Even if you are offered the minimum diameter of a spiral staircase, do not agree. If the diameter is less than 1220 mm, it will be difficult to walk on it and it will be completely impossible to lift any object.

Assembling a spiral staircase

1. Let's start by determining the location where the center rod will be installed. In the stairwell, you need to install two cords diagonally. In the place where they intersect, and will be the center for the rod.
2. Mark the point on the floor where the center rod will be located.
3. Position the flange so that they are in line with the set point. The flange is usually reinforced with screws, and they come with the design.
4. Install the first lower step following the drawing. Install all steps and guardrail post, each time checking the verticality of the central rod.
5. The top railing is fixed with screws.
6. The handrails must be positioned so that the screw holes line up with the holes in the uprights. Tighten all screws on the uprights.
7. Tighten all nuts.
8. Install the decorative top.

A good example of how a spiral staircase is mounted:

Now you know how to make a wooden staircase to the second floor with your own hands. Drawings of wooden structures in a private house should help you deal with the nuances. Remember that if in doubt, it is better to simplify the design as much as possible or turn to professionals.

Today we will consider the manufacture of stairs to the second floor with our own hands. A real master of his craft, Sergey Ermakov, shares his design experience. His professional approach to work and attention to detail deserve deep respect.

The story will be about building a staircase that has 2 marches (2 continuous rows of steps) and a platform between them.

How to make a staircase to the second floor

The construction of the stairs is carried out in several stages: first, a platform is mounted between the marches, then the main pillar is installed, then the lower and upper parts with steps go in sequence, and at the end the railing is installed.

Installation of the platform between marches

It is necessary to start the manufacture of stairs from the marking of the site, it must be strictly horizontal. To do this, using a level (at the height where the site will be), the horizon is marked on the wall:

It is advisable to choose the height of the platform in such a way that both flights of stairs are the same, in this case, it will be convenient to climb the stairs.

According to the selected level (strictly horizontally), bars are attached to the wall with large screws:

At the same time, the holes for the screws must be drilled so that the screw enters the bar with force, and then only wrapped, otherwise the screw will not pull the bar to the wall properly.

Screws, of course, cannot be a reliable support for the entire structure, therefore, under horizontal bars, it is necessary to fix vertical supports on all sides:

The main bearing post is made of timber 100x100 mm or 100x150 mm. A groove is cut out in it, and horizontal bars are attached to it with screws:

There are supports in all corners so that the load does not fall on the screws, but is transferred directly to the floor:

In the manufacture of the site (and, in principle, in the manufacture of the entire staircase), you need to use the square and level more often, checking the corners and the horizon. If this is not done, the skew will accumulate, and in the future there will be a lot of all sorts of difficulties:

Accuracy is bubble controlled at:

From above, the fabricated frame is covered with a floorboard:

To fix the boards, it is necessary to drill holes through the strapping and then screw the screws from below:

In general, the use of glue will prevent the stairs from creaking in the future, as is often the case. For these purposes, waterproof glue for wood "Titebond ll" is perfect.

Installing the main pole

To install a large pole, you need to make a nest under it on the site:

The pole installation technology itself is quite tricky. We need to jack up the ceiling a little with a long lever (horizontal board) and a vertical board next to our post. Next, install our pole, remove the vertical board, and thus, our pole will be sandwiched (by spacer) between the ceiling and the platform:

The upper and lower parts of the pole (the junction with the platform and the ceiling) must also be smeared with glue.

Installation of the lower part of the stairs

Next, you need to proceed to the installation of the lower part of the stairs, starting with the bowstring. The bowstring is the visible part of the ladder and must be planed, smooth, white, free of knots and blue. To prevent the staircase from being skewed, the boards intended for the bowstring must be of the same width:

This is achieved by cutting them together. It is necessary to fold two boards and plan them with an electric planer.

In order to determine the angle of inclination of the upper flight of stairs, a straight long rail is taken. That is, this is how the string of the upper march will be located:

At one end, the upper march will stand on the platform, and at the other, it will rest on the wall. Thus, you can roughly determine the angle between the horizon and the slope of the upper march, and fix it with the help of such a simple tool: a wooden square with a lamb to fix the angle:

This angle is very useful to us for marking the bowstring of the lower flight of stairs so that this flight has the same angle as the upper one!

So, the bowstring of the lower part of the stairs must be set at the same angle:

After marking and sawing out, you should get such a parallel connection to the floor:

and a right angle of adjunction to the site:

After making sure that the cuts are made correctly and the bowstring fits well both to the floor and to the site, you need to prepare the second bowstring in the same way with the same cuts.

Further, on both bowstrings is marked symmetrical pattern, indicating the installation locations of future steps and risers. So far, this is only markup, but it must be done carefully enough, because soon it will all need to be hollowed out. If a symmetrical pattern does not work out, then something went wrong, and you need to repeat the operation until complete symmetry is achieved:

Then, using a circular saw, according to the previously made drawing, cuts are made: those from the edges are accurate, and in the middle - any. This is done so that later the tree would be easier to choose with a chisel:

Thus, after the passage of one and the other bowstring, we get the following selection for the installation of steps and risers:

After all the steps are prepared in size, you need to lay both bowstrings on the floor, and install the steps in the grooves formed. The ends of the steps are also smeared with glue and fixed from below obliquely with screws:

When the steps are installed, the risers are inserted:

The places where the risers adjoin the steps are also smeared with glue. The glue must be applied sparingly so that it does not squeeze out when the wooden surfaces are closed - this will interfere with the further coating of the stairs with stain (spots will appear in place of the squeezed out glue).

The manufactured lower flight of stairs is attached to the platform and screwed with screws from the back side:

Then it is better to cover the surface of the new steps with hardboard so that you can walk freely on them and continue construction work, because otherwise the steps may wear out quite a lot and they will have to be sanded before being coated with stain or varnish.

Ladder top installation

Making a bowstring for the upper span is done in almost the same way as for the lower one. The bowstring is installed with one end on the platform, and the other - on the floor of the second floor. A small margin is released on both sides:

The angle of inclination of the bowstring is checked again using the tool. The upper string should be at the same angle as the lower string:

On the upper span, it is better to insert the steps in place when both bowstrings are already installed. Of course, you can assemble on the floor, but the ladder becomes very heavy and it will simply not be lifted:

Railing installation

Now it's time to install a pillar to the bowstring of the lower span, on which the railing will be held on one side. The pillar is placed on the floor, adjoining close to the bowstring. Using a pencil, you need to outline the edges for sampling the groove:

After sampling, it turns out such a groove with a depth of about 1.5 cm. Three holes for the screws are immediately drilled here:

The groove, part of the bowstring, and the base of the floor, where the pole will stand, are also smeared with glue. The pillar is attached tightly to the floor and to the bowstring and pressed, while you can lightly tap with a mallet:

On the second floor, the pole is installed in almost the same way. A groove is made with a chisel, the excess is selected, holes for the screws are drilled. The resulting groove and the upper part of the bowstring are also smeared with glue:

Here you see a construction of 2 pillars - everything is correct. Both posts will support the top of the railing. From one pillar, the railing goes horizontally (at the top of the second floor). From the second pillar, the railing goes down, parallel to the bowstring.

To fix the railing on a semicircular pole, you need to cut out the following detail using an electric jigsaw:

This corner of the part is cut off along the same square along which the steps were installed:

In order for one of the parts of the part to fit snugly against the round post, a semicircular groove is selected in it. First, the selection is carried out using a chisel, and then it is polished with a machine to a semicircle:

We fix the part to the post with screws and attach the railing on top, not forgetting to pre-lubricate all joints with glue:

Before installing the balusters, you need to arrange them at the same distance from each other and mark the installation sites with a pencil:

It is advisable to drill the holes in the balusters a little obliquely and wrap the screws with a slight drowning of the screw heads:

On the upper side, the baluster is also fixed:

Finally, a small space above the heads of the screws is covered with tongues, which are rubbed with sandpaper.
On the upper part of the bowstring, balusters are installed almost in the same way and at the same distance between them:

As a result, the staircase takes on this form, and it remains only to paint it:

This concludes our long story. I would like to once again thank the master for such a cool staircase, which he made with his own hands right in front of our eyes.