Fastening the gutter to the gutter. How to install roof gutters correctly

The ideal option is when the calculation of the drainage system is thought out even at the stage of drawing up a general project: this will allow fulfilling the technical requirements, according to which the installation of gutters is carried out before laying the roofing material. However, it often happens that this procedure is carried out already on the finished roof, which is associated with a number of difficulties.

In what situations is the gutter attached only to the frontal board

Installation of the gutter system hooks only on the frontal board is possible in cases where the ventilation of the under-roof space is carried out using special holes in the overhangs filing - the so-called. "Perforated spotlights". This is the simplest and most inexpensive type of ventilation, but its efficiency leaves much to be desired.

For a more complete air flow, a gap is used under the crate. This implies a lower position of the frontal board and fixing the brackets exclusively to the crate. The disadvantage of this method is the risk of board collapse under snow load. The decision on the appropriateness of one or another approach to the installation of gutters is made by the owner of the house.

Another reason for installing drainage hooks on the frontal board is to carry out the installation of drainage structures after the completion of the main construction work. A common situation when an unfinished house with an expensive roofing is purchased: in order not to start a laborious procedure for dismantling it, it is easier to fix the gutters to the frontal board. The same algorithm of actions is chosen when replacing the drainage system.

The third reason why the brackets can only be installed on the surface of the frontal board is the use of an anti-condensation waterproofing film. As the installation rules state, it must necessarily go to the eaves overhang, which implies the possibility of installing gutters exclusively on the frontal board.

Common ways to install a drainage system

The installation instructions for the drainage system require the use of special mounting hooks. According to building codes, they can be installed on solid battens (soft roofs), on the surface of the rafters or on the outside of the wind board.

There are seven main ways to install a gutter:

1. To the rafters... Some beginners are counting on the possibility of lifting a couple of sheets of roofing material to fix the hooks to the battens after the roofing is completed. However, as practice shows, it is not so easy to do this, because you have to dismantle several rows of roofing screws. As a result, ugly holes remain in the places where they were installed, which will need to be closed with patches.
   To get out of the situation, the lining of the boards is used along the roofing material, which avoids its deformation when removing and unscrewing the screws. As for slate roofs, special wooden inserts are used there directly into the waves of the material: they are grinded in advance, exactly along the profile. In this case, a through fastening of the drain is used through a sheet of slate and a wooden insert.
2. On the frontal board... The simplest method of mounting the mounting brackets to a finished roof is to install them on the surface of the windboard. At the same time, the frontal board itself is often made out as a separate decorative element. Metal roofs are best equipped with steel short hooks, installed on metal strips. If we are talking about a light plastic gutter, then an ordinary wooden wind board can act as the basis for fixing it.
3. With crutches... There are situations when there is no frontal board at all. A way out of this state of affairs can be the installation of special crutches made of metal or wood into the wall. They will act as a fastening base for the gutters, which in this case are mounted on pins or beams.
4. Support brackets... Small house buildings are allowed to be equipped with brackets on supports or other devices.
5. Invisible brackets... There are fasteners on sale that are almost invisible after installation. It's all about the direction of fixation: in this case, it is carried out from above. The installation step of such structures should not exceed 40-70 cm, in order to avoid deformation under the influence of snow and ice loads. If the brackets provide for fastening to the crate or the top of the rafters, they are bent in the shape of the roof slope.
6. Adjustable fasteners... This is an innovative development that allows, by twisting the screws, to adjust and adjust the brackets to a particular angle of inclination of the roof. This eliminates the need to check the bend radius of each individual fastener. Such a product consists of two main moving parts: they are positioned relative to each other, depending on the required fixing height.
7. Installation directly on the surface of the roofing material... On sale are expensive fastening structures that allow the installation of gutters in the most difficult situations when a fragile or corrugated coating is used. It is important to understand that such an approach to installation is allowed only in areas with a low level of rainfall.

As a result, we can say that the degree of fastening reliability directly depends on the correct installation of the gutter. It should be understood that the gutter is not designed to effectively withstand the snow load: this is the task of the snow guards and special heating cables.

The technology of installing gutter hooks on the finished roof requires a closer look.

Calculation of the required number of hooks, gutters, pipes

To calculate the required number of drainage elements, use the formula (B + H / 2) x C

Explanation of designations:

• B is the horizontal distance between the overhang and the ridge.
• H - height.
• C is the length of the roof.

All parameters are indicated in meters.

The procedure for installing drainage elements on the surface of the wind board:

1. On the surface of the previously mounted board, a horizontal line is marked in the highest section of the gutter. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a laser level.
2. The resulting markings are transferred to the entire length of the gutter. In this case, a slope of 3-5 mm per running meter of the drain should be taken into account.
3. Next, the numbering of all fastening hooks is carried out. When marking, it is important not to forget about the slope of the gutter. To change the radius of the hooks, use a special hookbend.
4. The first step is to assemble the first and last hooks. Next, pull the cord between them: it should be at the very bottom of the gutter. Using the resulting guide, it is quite easy to install the rest of the fasteners.
5. When determining the location of the funnels at the ends of the gutters, their size is taken into account: the funnel must be attached to the surface of the board, and outline its outline with a pencil. An edging of 45 mm is left between the edge of the contour and its center. To cut the hole, use a regular hacksaw or special metal scissors.
6. The finished frames are folded outward by inserting the grooves into each other. It is necessary to observe the correctness of putting on the front parts of the groove: in this case, the spout should be in the curl itself.

Correct positioning of gutters and funnels

The gutter is installed in the following sequence:

• First you need to install the funnel and the adjacent gutters.
• The edges of the gutters are fixed with self-tapping screws on the surface of the wind board.
• The fastening of the funnel and gutter continues until their profiles completely coincide.
• You should carefully check the degree of slope and the location of the fasteners.
• Next, the installation of the profile of the gutters on the brackets is carried out, followed by joining. To close the empty ends, special plugs are included in the package.
• Funnels and pipes in the wall are connected with taps.
• After that, you need to install the pipe bracket.
• At the end, the marking of the direction of installation of the drain is carried out, for the installation of the vertical parts of the structure.

The connection of modern metal gutters takes place using sealing clamps. Clips, rubber seals and cold welding can be used to connect plastic gutters. During these procedures, it is important not to forget about linear expansion compensation.

You can also use special grates for the drainage system to clear the flowing water from various debris that falls on the roof surface from nearby trees (branches, leaves, needles). In the event of blockages, drainpipes begin to clog, which in winter is fraught with freezing of water inside the drainage, with the threat of rupture.

How to install and fix downpipes - instructions

First of all, you need to decide on which wall it is better to install them on, and which mounting method will be optimal in this case:

• On the surface of three-layer walls, only the top face layer can be used for fixing the brackets. With a thickness of 90 mm, the anchor is set to a depth of 60 mm. A layer thickness of 120 mm will require a depth of 80-90 mm.
• It is recommended to drill two-layer walls upon completion of its finishing: the depth of the holes is 60-90 mm. When the dowel is immersed, it must enter the second layer of insulation, after which it is allowed to screw the fastener.
• On a single-layer wall, the bracket is fixed with screws or expansion dowels, with an immersion depth of more than 60 mm.
• In the case of timber frame walls, the holder should be fixed with self-tapping screws. For fixation in this case, it is convenient to use a sharp rod of great length.

It is best if the installation of the vertical fasteners of the drainage system is carried out during the construction of the walls.

Features of installing pipes to the wall

If the installation is carried out on finished walls, the following rules should be observed:

1. Installation of drainpipes is carried out only from the bottom.
2. The mounting holes should be small in diameter.
3. The drain pipe and the wall surface must be separated by a certain distance.
4. To protect the foundation from water flowing under it, a cut drain elbow is installed at the bottom.

Brick walls are equipped with plastic dowels, into which screws fastened with a clamp are screwed. It is more convenient to mount on wooden walls with special rods or plates with self-tapping screws.

How is the vertical type gutter system attached:

1. Couplings are used to connect pipes.
2. When the lower tube is inserted, a gap is left.
3. The holder with the trunk is mounted under the sleeve. Tees are mounted in the same way.
4. At the end of the procedure, the lower branch and the pipe are fixed.

It is advisable to place the corner pipe closest to the eaves overhang at a distance of 150 mm from the corner of the building.

A properly executed roof reliably protects the building from moisture penetration into a residential attic or a cold attic. Flowing down its slopes, water can fall on the walls and foundation of the building. To prevent this, the roofing system must be supplemented with an effective drainage system. To ensure the normal operation of such a system, it must be correctly calculated and installed. All this can be done independently, but first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology for performing work and the recommendations of specialists.

How to install roof gutters correctly

Before you start installing the drainage system, you need to decide whether you will buy industrial gutters or make them yourself. If you have certain skills, then all the elements of the drainage system can be made by yourself. For this, galvanized steel is usually used. But they resort to this method quite rarely, since in addition to certain abilities and experience, it will require a significant investment of time and labor. It is much easier to buy finished products and install them yourself.

According to the material of manufacture, drainage systems are divided into two types.

1. Plastic gutter system. Its elements can be connected with glue or rubber seals. The plastic does not corrode, is lightweight, easy to install, and available in a wide variety of colors. Its disadvantages are that the mechanical strength is not very high, damaged plastic elements cannot be repaired, and if the connection is made using rubber parts, then they will need to be changed periodically.

   Plastic gutter systems are widely used due to their resistance to corrosion, light weight and ease of installation.

2. Metal gutter system. For its manufacture, galvanized steel is usually used, which can be coated with polymer, much less often gutters are made of copper. The elements of such a system are characterized by high strength, they can withstand heavy loads and have a low coefficient of expansion. The disadvantages of such a system are its high cost, heavy weight and complexity of installation. If the protective polymer layer is damaged, rust begins to appear. In addition, metal products are presented in much fewer colors.

   A metal gutter system is heavier than a plastic one, but it has a longer service life.

This is not to say that this or that drainage system is better, it all depends on the operating conditions and the region in which the building is located. The plastic system has a large number of various elements, so it is more convenient to use it when creating a system of complex configuration. Metal gutters look beautiful, last a long time, but their installation is more difficult.

It is easier to install the drainage system before laying the roofing material. For the correct implementation of this work, you must adhere to the following recommendations.

1. The installation must be carried out at a certain temperature depending on the material:
   • plastic elements - more than 5 o C;
   • metal products coated with plastisol or ceramic granules - more than 10 o C;
   • metal treated with pural - 5 o C and above.
2. The gutter must be installed with a slope in relation to the roof. It can be organized in one (with a roof length of less than 12 m) or in two directions. The standard slope should be 3–5 mm per 1 m of length towards the inlet. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain a distance between rainwater inlets no more than 24 m.

   If the length of the building is less than 12 m, then the slope of the gutters can be made in one direction, otherwise it is necessary to mount the gutters with an inclination from the center of the wall to each of its corners

3. The holders must be equidistant from each other. For a plastic gutter, the fasteners are installed after a maximum of 50 cm, and for a metal one - after 60 cm. The holders begin to be installed from the top point and gradually move to the bottom.
4. The gutter should be positioned so that the edge of the roof protrudes 35–50% of its width.

   The edge of the gutter must be at least 3 cm below the plane of the roof, otherwise it can be ripped off during the snow sliding

5. It is possible to cut the gutter elements only in the manner recommended by the manufacturer. Plastic elements are cut with a hacksaw with fine teeth, metal elements - with a hacksaw for metal. The grinder cannot be used for products with a polymer coating, since during its operation intense heating and destruction of the coating occurs.

   In no case should you cut a polymer-coated gutter with a grinder

6. Holders of drain pipes should be installed at least every 2 m, and at a house height of more than 10 m - every 1.5 m.
7. It is necessary to connect the elements correctly and securely. Plastic parts are joined with glue, rubber seals and latches. Metal elements can be attached to each other with latches or rubber seals. The drain pipe should not reach the ground by 25-40 cm.

   When connecting the gutters between them, it is necessary to leave an expansion gap for thermal expansion of the material.

Installing gutters with your own hands

When performing an independent installation of the gutter system, you will need the following set of tools:

Usually, the installation of the gutter system is carried out during the construction of the building, before the installation of the roofing material. Let's consider the sequence of these works in more detail.

1. Fastening the brackets with respect to the slope and the step of their installation.
2. Installation of funnels. These elements are located in those places where drain pipes are installed. Funnels are also used to connect plastic gutters. In the place of the gutter, where the funnel will be attached to it, a hole is made and the edges are well cleaned. Glue is used to fix the funnels. To prevent debris from entering the drain pipe, a protective mesh is installed on the funnel, which must be periodically cleaned of debris.

   It is imperative to install a protective mesh on the funnel, otherwise the drain pipe will be clogged with debris

3. Installation of gutters. These elements can be semicircular or rectangular. The brackets are selected depending on the shape of the gutters, after which they are simply put on the ready-made fasteners. The edge of the drain that is not in use must be closed with a plug, its tightness is ensured by a rubber seal. It is recommended to install brackets on both sides of the connection to avoid sagging of the gutter system.

   Depending on the type of gutter, the type of bracket is selected

4. Gutter connection. In order to connect two gutters together, special additional elements are used, which are put on the ends of adjacent gutters. A distance of about 3-5 mm should remain between the grooves, it is necessary to ensure possible deformations of the elements. This is especially important for plastic parts, since they have a large coefficient of expansion.
5. Installation of knees. Elbows, as well as gutters, can have a semicircular or rectangular shape and are selected in accordance with the shape of the installed gutters. The knee is put on the funnel from below, it will direct the water into the drain pipe. It is necessary to choose the required knee angle, although there are usually no problems with this, since the choice of such elements is quite large.

   If the length of the elbow is not enough, then an additional piece of pipe is installed between it and the drain pipe

6. Installation of risers. The elbow is connected to the riser pipe and is fixed with clamps to the brackets installed on the wall of the building. If one pipe is not enough, it is lengthened, for which one or more elements of the required length are attached.

   The maximum distance between the riser mounts cannot exceed 2 m

7. Installation of clamps. Usually, these elements are made in the form of two arcs that cover the pipe, and then are fixed with bolts. A pin is used to fasten the clamp to a wooden wall, and a dowel is used to a brick wall, for which a hole is previously made.

   Clamps consist of two arcs that cover the pipe and tighten it with clamps

8. Plumbing installation. This element is final, in its appearance it looks like a knee. The drain is mounted at the very bottom of the pipe, with its help the incoming water will be diverted from the foundation of the building. It is recommended that the distance from the edge of the drain to the blind area is no more than 40 cm.

Video: installing gutters

Ebb installation

Correct installation of window sills is of great importance for protecting the house from moisture. These are metal or plastic slats that are mounted from the outside of the house to the lower part of the window opening.

Ebbs are made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating or plastic

Each window must have an ebb, which is also popularly called the outer window sill. In addition to protecting the walls from moisture penetration, they also give the house a beautiful and complete look.

The ebb installation sequence consists of several steps.

1. Carrying out measurements and determining the required size of the low tide. For the manufacture of ebbs, galvanized steel is used, it can also have a polymer coating or plastic. Such an element must have a fold corresponding to the shape of the window near which it is installed, as well as folds on the sides and bottom. The low tide should protrude 3-5 cm beyond the wall and be inclined towards the street in order to ensure the free flow of water along the lower drip chamber. In order for the water to drain well and quickly, the slope should be about 10 o.

   The length of the ebb is standard, and its width is selected for each window sill separately

2. Cleaning the installation site from debris.
3. Fixing the ebb with self-tapping screws to the lower profile of the window.

   For reliable fixation of the ebb, the screws are installed in increments of 40–45 cm

4. Filling the space between the window sill and the ebb with polyurethane foam, which, after hardening, firmly fixes this element, and also provides reliable noise and heat insulation. During hardening, the ebb must be pressed with a heavy object so that the expanding foam does not lift it up during the hardening process.

   The ebb should be tilted away from the window so that water can drain well from it

5. Sealing the junction of the ebb and the window frame with silicone sealant.

During the installation of the ebb tide, it is necessary to ensure that its side bends go under the slopes so that water does not fall on the wall. It is recommended to install ebb tides before external slopes are formed.

How to properly attach the gutter hooks

Before proceeding to fixing the hooks, it is necessary to make markings to ensure the angle of inclination of the gutter system. Due to the slope, the water will drain towards the riser and be effectively removed from the roof.

Attaching long hooks

Installation of hooks under the gutters is carried out before laying the roofing material. This is due to the fact that they are installed under the roof and after it has been laid, long hooks cannot be fixed.

The installation sequence for long hooks will be as follows.

If only short hooks are available, then there is no big deal. Their installation is carried out in the same way, but if in the first case the hooks were attached to the crate or rafters, then here they are fixed to the end plane or to the cornice board.

Short hooks can be mounted after the roofing material has been laid

Short hooks are usually installed after the roof has been installed. Universal holders can also be used, which can be attached as short or long hooks if required.

Video: features of mounting hooks

Common mistakes

If you carelessly approach the design and installation of the drainage system, you can make certain mistakes, because of which it will not be able to fully perform its functions:

• horizontal installation of gutters leads to the fact that water remains in the gutter, and in winter it freezes there;
• a large release of roofing material above the gutter and leads to the fact that during heavy rainfall, water does not enter the catchment;
• placing the drain pipe too close to the wall of the house causes the wall to constantly get wet;
• an insufficient number of brackets leads to a sagging of the gutter, which is why water accumulates in this place;
• poor-quality assembly violates the tightness of the structure, so water gets on the walls.

Installation of internal gutters

The structure of the internal drainage system includes the following main elements:

• water intake funnel;
• riser;
• branch pipe;
• release.

In order for this system to work at any time of the year, water intake funnels must not be installed next to the outer walls of the house, otherwise they will freeze in winter.

The installation of the internal drain is carried out in a certain sequence.

1. Installation of funnels. If the floor slabs are already installed, then funnels can be installed. If there is no overlap yet, then you need to start with the installation of risers. The funnel is connected to the riser by means of a compensating socket, so that the connection does not break with external deformations.

   The internal drainage system is usually set up on flat roofs, where there is no natural drainage of water due to the slope of the slopes.

2. Installation of risers and pipes for drainage of water from funnels. Pipes connecting funnels and risers must be laid with a slope. The diameter of the riser must be equal to or greater than the diameter of the funnel. If the diameter of the pipes is not more than 110 mm, then they go in coils and run from top to bottom. For large sizes, pipes are installed from the bottom up. The uprights are fixed every 2-3 meters.

   Indoor gutters should be fixed at maximum every 3 m.

3. Laying horizontal pipelines. Their installation is carried out in the same way as sewer pipes, but the slope is made about 2-8 mm per meter. For pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, the cleaners are installed after 10 m, and if their diameter is 100-150 mm, then after 15 m.

   Horizontal pipes of the internal drainage system are mounted in the same way as sewer pipes, but with a smaller slope.

Internal drainage systems can be of the following types:

• gravity - collection and drainage of water is carried out along troughs located with a slope. Such a system is only partially filled with water;
• siphon - completely filled with water, which enters the funnel, and then into the riser. Due to the resulting vacuum, the forced removal of water occurs, so this method is more effective.

Video: how the installation of the intake funnel is carried out

The system for external drainage of water from the roof can be:

• disorganized. In this case, the water comes off arbitrarily, this method is usually used for small outbuildings;
• organized. Water is collected in gutters, after which it is discharged through drain pipes outside the building.

When creating an external gutter, the gutters are attached using special brackets, which you can make yourself, but it is better to purchase ready-made ones.

When creating an external gutter, the gutters should be mounted at a slope, this will ensure effective drainage of water entering from the roof. It is not difficult to create an external drainage system with your own hands. All the necessary items are now on sale. It is enough to draw up a diagram and calculate how many and what elements are needed, after which you can simply and quickly install them.

It is quite possible to mount an external drainage system with your own hands, because all the necessary components are on sale to facilitate this process

Installation of the outdoor drainage system is carried out in the following order.

1. Calculation of the required amount of materials. You need to decide on the number of holders, gutters, drain pipes and elbows.
2. Marking of places for fastening hooks. After the attachment points are marked, the hooks are bent to the required angle and their fixation.
3. Preparation of places for funnels. Holes for funnels are prepared in the grooves, after which they are fixed.

   During installation, all connections must be made tight so that water from pipes and gutters does not fall on the walls of the house

4. Laying gutters. The gutters with installed funnels are placed in holders and fixed.
5. Installation of drain pipes. They are attached to the wall using special brackets.
6. Connection of drain pipes and funnels. Using elbows with the required angle of inclination, the drain pipe and funnel are connected.

   For the funnel, a hole is made in the gutter, the edges of which are well cleaned to obtain an airtight connection

A properly executed external drainage system reliably protects the roof, walls and foundation of the building from water penetration into them. During the cold season, during frequent thaws, the drain pipes of the gutters can freeze, so the water will not be efficiently removed. To avoid such a problem, you can install heating of these elements. For this, a self-regulating or resistive cable is used, which is attached to gutters and pipes. Electric current passing through the cable causes it to heat up, as a result of which the elements of the drainage system remain warm, so the water in them does not freeze.

Video: heating gutters and drain pipes

The main requirements for the drainage system are the removal of water from the roof of the house, as well as high strength, tightness and long service life. It is necessary to reckon that such a system can withstand heavy loads; in winter, a large amount of ice can accumulate on it. In order for a self-installed system to meet all the requirements, it is necessary to correctly calculate it, and then carry out the installation in compliance with the developed technologies.

The system for collecting rainwater from the roof slopes and draining it into the storm sewer, or at least further from the foundation of the house, is mandatory for arrangement, therefore it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating the lathing for further roofing. However, there are roof structures that involve fastening the drainage systems after roofing work. In addition, other situations occur, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the decision is facilitated by the fact that the manufacturers of drainage systems, having foreseen different cases in which it is necessary to mount a common structure, make them in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems by material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only material available for the manufacture of drainage systems was galvanized steel, from which they, by the way, are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced by metal structures with a polymer coating, or completely made of plastics. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and a long service life, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, the “new generation” gutters quickly became very popular among buyers.

Since consumers often have a question about which option is better - ordinary galvanized, metal, polymer-coated or completely plastic, there are a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should be noted right away that each from materials from which gutters are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

• Plastic gutter system can be called the most optimal option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes, resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosive processes, is inert to ultraviolet light and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide fastening surface, so they fit snugly against the wind board and are securely held on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration like metal brackets. Therefore, all structural details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the price of structures made of other materials - this can be called the most significant of their disadvantages.

• with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. Systems withstand external natural influences well, they look very elegant outwardly, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, steel parts with a polymer protective coating are not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching. Well, damage to the polymer coating leads to corrosion processes, which means that the duration of the structure's functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Need extra care when assembling and handling fasteners.

• Galvanized steel sheet gutters are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetic enough. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches, corrosion can also quickly do with howling bad deed.

The advantage of metal systems is that some of their parts can be much more easily adjusted to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can also casually recall the less popular materials from which gutters for buildings with a certain design solution are made - it can be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. The reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly “biting”. If such systems are selected, then brackets can also be selected for them, which can be fixed to the eaves of an already roofed roof.

In principle, support brackets of different designs can be selected for drainage systems made of any material, since they are sold not only complete with the main parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders fit the shape and size of the gutter.

Find out how to do it by studying the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install gutters after the roof has been covered?

Now we need to clarify the moments when circumstances can force us to engage in the installation of the drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

• This process itself, in this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if the ventilation of the roofing system will be carried out through the perforated parts of the soffits installed under the eaves of the roof. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more effective, therefore they plan to fix the drainage gutter on the frontal (wind) board.
• Forced fixing of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished form, and the former owner did not foresee their installation in advance.
• Very widespread the reason when the old drainage system is completely outdated and worn out - the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and did not perform their function properly.

Gutter prices

gutters

• If in the rafter system it was used for, which, according to the technology, should go to the eaves overhang. Therefore, in this version, it is no longer possible to fix the brackets for laying the gutters to the crate and they must be fixed to the wind board.

How gutter systems are installed along eaves

Types of brackets for attaching gutters

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. The choice of the right model will depend on the place and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and versatile:

• Long hooks are most often used for anchoring under roofing to decking. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before the installation of a discharged or solid sheathing.
• The short brackets can be used to install the gutter system on the frontal board or on the wall of the building. This type of hook is installed both before the roofing is laid on the rafter system, and after the roof has been equipped. In addition to the frontal board or wall, sometimes this type of bracket is fixed to the end surface of the rafter legs or filly. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be much lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the fibers.
• The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible structure that can be used for the installation of drainage systems both before the roofing material is laid down, and after this process. The adjustable length allows them to be used both long and short.

Methods for securing gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems, with a wall-mounted roof covering. This will make it possible to determine which of them is applicable in each specific case.

So, there are four ways to fix the brackets to the elements of the rafter system:

• On the rafter legs, both on the front and on the top or side of them.
• On the wind (frontal) board.
• Under the roof, on the bottom board of the sheathing or on plywood (smallpox) of the solid sheathing.
• To the edge of the roof covering.

The first way is to rafters or crate

If the brackets are fixed before the installation of the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the sheathing. In this case, support long-legged hooks that if necessary, the correct location of the grooves can be bent or they can be left straight. In addition to them, for the installation of drainage systems, in this case, universal brackets are sometimes used.

If the roofing has already been installed, for example, if the old drainage system needs to be replaced and it is planned to fix the brackets in this way, then the lower row of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of the coating. Rigid roofing material must be removed carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in use for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material lends itself to dismantling without breaking the integrity or without deformation, especially if it is fixed with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In a situation where the roof is equipped, laid on a plywood base, you can try to gently lift only the lower edge of the roofing material that runs along the eaves. Then, put the brackets on a solid crate and secure with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafter legs through the plywood covering. The next step is to return the bituminous tile or roofing material to its original position and fix it to the surface using bitumen mastic.

Video: Installation of a drainage system with edge dismantling of tile roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists in fixing the hooks to the side of their beam. For this, brackets with a bent, unfolded mounting platform are purchased or manufactured - an example is shown in the figure above.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

It should be remembered that such installation is possible only if the rafter legs are of a sufficiently large cross-sectional size, for example, 120 × 50 or 150 × 50 mm. In addition, it must be taken into account that the hooks must be fixed so that the roofing overhangs the gutter, overlapping ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise water may overflow in case of heavy rain.

Therefore, if the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafter is chosen, then first you need to make a fitting, which will show whether this installation method is possible.

The second way is to attach the brackets to the frontal board

The easiest way is to install the brackets on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various mounts.

The frontal board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs it can be wide or narrow. The choice of the type of bracket will depend on this parameter.

Suitable for installing the drainage system on the frontal board:

• Long brackets, in the event that the frontal board has big enough width. These holders are made of metal and have a leg the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the frontal board.

• Short brackets are designed for attaching them to the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as to the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable, the reliability of fixation will be questionable due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood grains.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the area of ​​the mounting platform, so they will hold the gutter firmly.

In addition to conventional brackets, you can find their adjustable options on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the location of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function cannot be dispensed with, for example, when arranging a drainage system on an inclined wind board or on the crown of a log cabin.

Bracket prices

bracket

Another option for attaching gutters to the frontal board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special holding brackets. First, a guide is fixed on the wind board, which is immediately given the necessary slope. Then, brackets are put on from the side of the profile and moved along the guide, with an arrangement at the required distance. It is not necessary to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this fastening system. In addition, when mounting it, you do not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you just need to set the profile with the desired slope in level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang is of a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is bounced on the wind board with a slope of three to five millimeters for each running meter of the gutter towards the drain funnel. Then, from the end edge of the frontal board, you need to retreat from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the place where the first bracket is installed.

Further, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (some manufacturers' systems allow a larger step - this is stipulated in the installation instructions). In the area where the drain funnel is installed, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After carrying out such a markup, you can proceed to fixing the brackets on the frontal board.

The third method is to attach the brackets directly to the edge of the roof covering.

This method is applicable for installing a gutter system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material... The fastening of the hooks-holders is carried out using special clamps (clamps), which fix the brackets along the edge of the roof.

There are different types of clamps, to secure some of them it will be necessary to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, stepping at least 50 mm from its edge. Others have a construction that does not require drilling in the roof as they are clamped along the edge of the roof. This option is fixed with a screw, which, by analogy with a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave coverage, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. It is recommended to put rubber gaskets under the metal fastening lugs of the clamp, both from the top and from the bottom of the roofing material, so the load on it will be slightly lower, and the compression will be softer.

For this method of installing a drain, both metal and plastic brackets are suitable. Ordinary metal long hooks can be altered by yourself, bending them in the right way, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this version the entire load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a set with a small mass.

The fourth way - with an additional long bracket

In this version, an additional metal L-bracket is used to fix the short gutter holders. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This method of fastening sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with a previously laid roof covering without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120 ÷ 150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafter legs, and there is no desire to fix the brackets to the edge of the roof, or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a gutter system with a previously covered roof:

• So, if it is necessary to equip a drainage system on an already covered slope, the brackets can be fixed directly on the wall surface, carefully measuring and marking.
• Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely installed soffit if it is of a suitable width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed on metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the soffit surface, by analogy with the picture shown above.
• If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen, they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then a hole of the corresponding diameter is first drilled in it, into which a pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled with concrete mortar, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, it is necessary to wait until the solution has completely solidified.

If you plan to lay the gutter on pins hammered into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the funnel of the downpipe is ensured.

• The pull-up pendant mount is not as popular as the options described above, but sometimes it is indispensable. This bracket has special bends, one of which picks up the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, there is a bushing with an internal thread on the holder, through it, as well as the upper part of the gutter wall, a fastening element is screwed into the wall or frontal plate.

This type of fastening can be used to fix the gutter both on the frontal board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fasteners are chosen, then the chute must be closed from above with a protective mesh, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the lintels, collecting dust and dirt flowing down with water with roofs, and over time, a cork forms in the gutter. To prevent overflow of water due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can notice that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

The parameters of the gutters and the angle of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of fixing the gutter system, before going to the store for it, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge in case of heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the cross-section of the pipes into which the storm drains from the gutter will flow, since if you purchase a pipe of not large enough diameter, it may not cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - to the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. There are certain standards on this score. So, if the length of the eaves of the slope is up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a vertical drain pipe. With longer eaves, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to install two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the cornice to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated in the above diagram with the letter Y, as well as the length of the cornice line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the catchment area of ​​one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, the gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, in the lower part of which the downpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and from it two gutters sloping towards the corners of the structure, where the gutters are installed.

Slope of the gutter gutters should be 3 ÷ 5 mm for each running meter of the gutter length.

Now it is worthwhile to figure out what dimensions of the gutter and drainage pipe must be selected, taking into account the calculated catchment area.

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and shows other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

The location of the drain pipe	Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
	Gutter -75 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, gutter pipe 110 mm
	The size of the catchment area, m2
	95	148	240	205	165	370
	48	74	120	100	82	180
	42	50	95	80	65	145

Gutter prices

gutter

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having figured out the principles and methods of installing the drainage system, and how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to downpipes, gutters and holders for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays its own important role in the design:

• Plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket for sealing the joints of individual gutters. Typically these parts will be needed in two-pipe gutter systems, or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
• The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
• The plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on both sides of the gutter.
• Drain or outlet funnel, connected to the drain gutter on one or both sides, depending on the chosen installation scheme. The bottom of the funnel is hermetically connected to the vertical downpipe.
• Elbow - This part is designed to create bends on the downpipe. If the wall is flat, then an elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and in the lower part to drain water away from the basement of the house. If the gutter and downpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has big enough width, thanks to which it is far from the wall, and the lower part of the pipe vertically enters into, then the elbows may not be used at all.
• Brackets for fixing the downpipe to the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps, in which the pipe is fixed.
• Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the gutter and downpipe holders will be attached.

• Brackets for gutters are installed at a distance of 500 ÷ 800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the cornice and choose the optimal installation step.
• Brackets-clamps for holding downpipes are fixed on or into the wall with a pitch of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm.
• The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. Two or one of them can be installed on each slope.
• Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they need to be purchased with a margin, given that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always use the surplus.

• For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and a roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of the drainage system

Tools required for the job

A few words must be said about the tools that will be required to carry out the installation of the drain. It is necessary to understand correctly that the set of tools may differ depending on what material the gutter structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

• Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will not turn out very neat and it will have to be cleaned.
• Shears for cutting sheet metal.
• Hammer and (or) - for fastening structural parts
• A hammer drill for drilling holes in a brick or concrete wall for installing brackets-clamps for a downpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
• Pliers will be needed for metal structures.
• A rubber mallet (mallet) is required when installing the plugs.
• Building level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord - for marking operations.
• Reliable stepladder or scaffolding - for convenience and safety.

Metal hacksaw prices

hacksaw for metal

In the same section, you need to immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut the elements of drainage systems using a hacksaw or metal scissors, and in no case with a "grinder" (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When cutting with a grinder, metal or plastic heats up a lot. This leads to burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cutting area of ​​the metal and melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, a polymer protective layer applied to a metal pipe or gutter can begin to peel off even up to 50 mm around the cut, making the metal virtually unprotected against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the craftsmen and cut the parts. drains only with tools that indicated above.

We believe that everything you need to install the drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to the consideration of installation work.

The sequence of installation work - step by step

So, if the roofing cake is already installed, the most widespread An option for fixing the gutter is to fix the short holders on the wind board. Moreover It should be noted that many roofers find short hooks more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

• The short holders do not need to be bent as they are ready for installation.
• If it is necessary to repair the gutter, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since you do not have to resort to dismantling part of the roof covering. Therefore, the work can be done independently without calling the masters.
• The cost of the short brackets is slightly lower than the price of the long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of the drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the gutter brackets must be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended that you first draw up a drainage arrangement scheme. In this case, a system with one funnel and a drainpipe will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The layout begins with determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50 ÷ 100 mm from the edge of the wind board. Further, a nail is driven into this point, so that a cord can be tied to it. After that, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the upper edge of the frontal board to the hammered nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the windboard, where the downpipe is planned to be installed. With the help of a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire frontal board. To simplify the task, you can take a tinted paint cord. Tied to the nail, the cord is stretched along the length of the windboard to the mark made on the opposite side of it.
	Further, focusing on the drawn horizontal, you need to beat off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific value of the slope, which should be 4 ÷ 5 mm per running meter of the cornice, you need to determine its exact length of the slope. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board, the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28 ÷ 35 mm. At the end point of the line from the horizontal, the found value is measured, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and the inclined line is beaten off. The markup can be done in a slightly different way. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed in it, and a cord is already tied to it. The rest of the actions are carried out in the same way as in the first variant of the markup. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The installation step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step is to fix two brackets along the two extreme points of the marking, between which a cord is pulled, which will help to fix the intermediate holders exactly along the marked line. So, the crosshair of the projection from the horizontal line to the inclined one, as well as the stretched cord, will indicate the exact attachment point of the hooks.
	Next, the intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them, you need to prepare two or three self-tapping screws. There may be more of them - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer for fixing the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed on so that they come into contact with the cord in the same way as the outer brackets.
	After the holders are screwed to the wind board, the cord must be removed and the hooks must be checked again to ensure that they are installed correctly. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width so that water will flow directly into the gutter without overlapping its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roof covering and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a rail on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30 ÷ 40 mm. This parameter is important due to the fact that if the edge of the bracket is lowered lower, the water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding from the cover, forms a cork in the groove of the gutter. In this case, the metal version of the bracket is convenient, since, if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to the previously drawn up scheme, is to mark the hole on the gutter for installing the funnel and downpipe. The size of the hole must correspond to the diameter of the drain pipe. Then, along the marked lines, using a hacksaw for metal, two cuts are made at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Further, the holes need to be adjusted - milled to the pipe diameter. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly bent outward - this will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative metal coating as little as possible.
	The next operation - a funnel is attached to the hole in the gutter and hooks onto it with a folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has "ears" that must be bent inward of the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter into the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and be bent away from it. Thus, you get the most reliable fastening of two parts - the gutter and the funnel. Here it is necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed on the gutter. Such a modification of this element makes installation easier, but the cost of systems with latches is also higher.
	The next step is the cutting of seals for the side gutter plug with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers, in any case, it must be flexible enough, bend easily and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. The seals can be supplied with the gutter system, or they can be purchased separately in the same stores where the gutters are sold.
	Further, the seal must be placed in the grooves along the edge of the plug, which will adjoin the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in the case under consideration, the second side of this gutter will be joined with another segment that goes beyond the corner.
	Then the plug is installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with the seal installed in it can be quite difficult to put on the metal edge. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue, for which you need to gently tap the plug from the outside, along the lower contour. Then it will fit snugly into the seat.
	Instead of a rubber seal, a roofing sealant can be used, which is applied before installing the plug on the edge of the gutter. Then, one more layer must be applied after they are combined from the inside of the gutter, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that some craftsmen, for greater reliability, use both components for sealing, that is, first install the seal, and then additionally from the inside of the gutter, apply a layer of roofing sealant. Until the sealant has lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in soapy water. From the outside, such a seal will not be visible and will not spoil the appearance of the drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters into the brackets fixed to the wind board. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, it is necessary to calculate in advance how many such elements are required for the entire cornice. In order not to cut the gutter with the funnel and plug installed, it should be installed first. After installing the gutter in the brackets, you need to gently press on it so that the outer fold of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. There are different options for gutters in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snap into place in almost the same way.
	At the junction of two gutter segments when they are installed in brackets, a retainer is installed under the joint, which has a rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps into place on the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent gutter, when installed from the side of the funnel, is wound inside the previously installed one - this will ensure a free drain of water.
	The latch is wound behind the back wall of the joint and put on over its edge. From the outer edge of the gutter, it is snapped into place with a special clamp. To increase reliability, the gutter joint is covered from the inside with the same roofing sealant. Apply the sealant in a thin layer and then smooth it with your finger, as it should not obstruct the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways of joining two pieces of gutters or a corner element of the system, if provided by the project. The first one, described above, is the latch. And the second is the rivets that fix the retainer on the back and front walls of the gutters. However, in order to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If the riveter is on the list of household tools, he will greatly speed up and simplify any installation work related to thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the others and it is much easier to install it, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter using a metal strip, which is attached with a self-tapping screw with a wide head or rivet to the front edge of the gutter, from its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed to the roof covering or to the wind board. In the second case, the strip will have to bend slightly. Metal strips can be cut from the remnants of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow load and spring ice. In addition to such braces, hooks are additionally screwed onto the wind board between the brackets to hold the gutters, engaging only at the rear edge. These elements will remove some of the load not only from the holding brackets, but also from the guy wires.
	Now you can proceed to the installation of the vertical part of the gutter. The first step in the funnel installed on the gutter is to mount an elbow, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60 ÷ 70 mm from the wall, since approximately this parameter is designed for a standard clamp holder.
	The elbow is put on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second elbow is measured, which determines the vertical direction of the downpipe. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe that will connect the two elbows. To the resulting value, add 35 ÷ 40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Further, the segment is put on top of the knee installed on the funnel, and the second knee of the structure is put on the second side of it. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid leaks of the system at the joints of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above must go inside the lower one.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be fixed at its lower end, which will set the direction for the water flows passing through the drain. However, it is necessary to provide for the fact that 80 mm of the resulting size will go to join the flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point that needs to be taken into account is that the standard pipe length, like the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and mount in the wall or fix the brackets for the vertical pipe on it. They are installed with a pitch of 1200 ÷ 1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints must also be reinforced with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but below it by 100 mm. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after the clamps are attached to it, so that after connecting the individual sections, immediately fix the drain in the brackets.
	Starting the assembly of the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the top pipe section is inserted into the next section. To make one section of the pipe easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly due to bends that can be made with pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can only be done if the drainage system is made of metal. The plastic will crack immediately if you try to bend it in this way.
	At the end of the pipe installation, a lower elbow is put on and fixed with a bracket on its lower edge. This element is usually located at a height of 150 ÷ ​​300 mm from the blind area. If it is planned to install or already installed a drainage system or storm sewer under the drainage pipe, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And quite often the pipe completely enters the storm water inlet.

So, the methods of installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowledge of the nuances of the calculation and information about which fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that to the maximum extent will approach the specifics of the roof structure, suit the master in terms of the complexity of execution and financial capabilities.

Frontal board version, plastic bracket mounting

The brackets are placed at the level of the cord stretched between the end bracket and the funnel. The difference in height between the end points of the cord should provide a slope of up to 3 mm per linear meter.

Option without a frontal board, mounting on a metal bracket

The option is used for roofs with a small pitch of lathing. The difference in height is provided by the bending of the bracket at the calculated place. The distance from the end of the support part of the bracket to the bending point should decrease as the intermediate bracket moves away from the final one.

Option without headboard, attachment with an extension and plastic bracket

The variant is used for roofs with a large battening pitch. The fold lines of all extensions are at the same distance. The slope is provided by sliding the plastic bracket over the extension. The bend point should be no closer than 10 mm from the attachment point of the bracket clamping plate or no closer than 10 mm from the end of the slot in the extension.

Ensuring the optimal position of the elements of the drainage system relative to the roof of operation

The overhang of the roof is located above the gutter at a distance of 1/3 to 1/2 of its diameter.

The required gap between the roof extension line and the upper part of the bracket of 25-30 mm is provided by bending the final metal bracket (extension) or by moving the plastic bracket.

Ensuring stability against deformation under vertical load

The distance between the gutter brackets should not exceed 600 mm. The funnel should be fixed at two points (or on two extensions). The gutter connector must be fixed at one point (or on one bracket). The end of the corner piece should be no more than 150 mm from the nearest bracket.

The distance from the plug to the nearest bracket should not exceed 250 mm.

Providing compensation for thermal linear expansion

The gutter must be inserted into the mating elements up to the line marked "Insert so far". For the convenience of installation, point micro-abutments are formed at the edges of the line, before contact with which the gutter is inserted. The distance from the end surface of the plug to the structural elements of the house must be at least 30 mm.

Sealing the drainage system

Before installation, the mating surfaces should be cleaned from dirt, make sure that there are rubber sealing gaskets and they are tightly installed in the slots. The gaskets must extend to the ends of the sockets. All plugs must be installed. The ends of the gutters should protrude 50 - 100 mm beyond the side cut of the roof.

Comparison of the characteristics of gutters under load

The plastic bracket, funnel and connector are attached with self-tapping screws directly to the frontal board. To fix the gutter in the plastic bracket, you must first insert the edge of the gutter closest to the frontal board into the bracket clamp. Then, lowering the gutter into the receiver of the bracket and pressing firmly on the opposite edge of the gutter together with the clamp, insert the edge into the clamp until it clicks. When attaching to the frontal board, it is necessary to strengthen the connection of the board to the roof to prevent it from being pulled out under a load from snow.

Roof without front board. Mounting on metal brackets

Metal extensions are used for large pitch battens and are attached to the roof structure. On metal extensions, the gutter is fixed in plastic brackets. When using an extension, the plastic bracket is bolted to allow the bracket to move when the gutter slopes. A bolt (with a semicircular head) M5x30 is inserted through a washer into the upper central hole of the bracket, passes through the bracket slot and is tightened with a nut after the plastic bracket is in the required position. A washer and a spring washer must be installed under the nut. The outer diameter of the flat washers must be at least 15 mm. A spring washer is installed between the washer and the nut. To avoid vertical movements, the bracket is additionally fixed to the extension through the lower hole either with a bolt (M5x30 + 2 washers) with a hex head or with a short self-tapping screw. The funnel and gutter connector are bolted (M5x30 + 2 washers) directly to the extension. The funnel is fixed with two bolts, and the connector with one.

Fastening pipes and fittings

There are two possible fixing methods:
Pipe: fastening with slippage, on the side surface of the clamp there is an inscription "Pipe".
Fitting: fastening with rigid fixation, on the side surface of the clamp there is an inscription "Fitting".
The base of the clamp is screwed with a self-tapping screw (diameter MB, length from 50 mm) to the wall of the house. The yokes of the clamp are inserted into the base until they stop. The clamp is tightened with a round head bolt (M5, length 40 mm) and a nut.

The sequence of installation of the drainage system

Installation of the catchment

• Install end bracket 5 subject to clause 2 of the General Provisions.
• Install funnel brackets 11 ... For the version with frontal board, funnel 11 mounts without brackets.
• Hang the slope of the gutter from the end bracket to the funnel bracket. For the version with a frontal board - from the cavity of the end bracket 5 to the bottom edge of the funnel cut 11 .
• Install the gutter connector brackets 7 ... For version with frontal board - install the connector itself 7 .
• Connector 7 or its bracket is installed taking into account clauses 1 and 3 of the General Provisions.
• The distance between the centers of the funnel 11 and connector 7 should not exceed 3,080 mm.
• Install intermediate brackets 9 subject to clause 3 of the General Provisions.
• Anchor the funnel 11 and gutter connector 7 on fasteners (bracket, connector).
• For the version with frontal board, funnel 11 and connector 7 mounted without brackets.
• Cut the gutter to the required length 8 and connect the funnel with it 11 and connector 7 .
• Cut the gutter to the required length 6 and place it on the connector and end bracket.
• Repeat the operations for the adjacent side of the roof (bracket 2 , gutter 3 ).
• Install in gutters 3 and 6 gutter corner 4 .
• Put on the funnel cap 12 to the open end of the funnel 11 .
• Put on the gutter plug 1 onto the open end of the gutter.
• Insert funnel mesh 10 .

Spillway installation

• Push all the way onto the drain hole of the funnel 11 clutch or knee 13 , depending on the specifics of the installation site. If necessary, fix the coupling or elbow 13 on the funnel 11 self-tapping screw.
• Assemble the required configuration of the figured part of the weir (knee 13 , pipe section 14 , knee 15 ). When assembling the shaped part of the weir, the following requirements must be adhered to: Fittings 13 and 15 in the figured part of the weir, they are connected to each other only through an intermediate pipe section 14 and, if necessary, are fixed on the pipe section with self-tapping screws.
• Secure the bottom fitting 15 clamp 16 in the "Fitting" position.
• Put on the pipe 18 all the way to the bottom fitting 15 of the shaped part of the weir.
• Align the pipe vertically. Mark the mounting location of the universal clamp in the middle of the pipe 17 .
• Put on the pipe 18 per fitting 15 ... Let's fix it in a clamp 17 .
• The middle clamp is mounted in the "Pipe" position.
• Cut the end piece of pipe to the required length 21 ... Put it on the clutch 19 and put the coupling with the pipe on the lower part of the fixed pipe 18 .
• Mark the mounting location of the clamp 20 on the wall of the house, flush with the place of fixing the clamp on the coupling 19 ... Retreat on 10 mm below.
• Put on the sleeve with the pipe ( 19 and 21 ) to the lower end of the fixed pipe 18 ... Fix the assembly in the clamp 20 ... The clamp is mounted in the "Fitting" position. If the length of the pipe section exceeds 1,500 mm, fix it in the middle with a universal clamp. The clamp is mounted in the "Pipe" position.
• Put the tip on the pipe 23 ... Mark the mounting location of the clamp 22 ... Step back 10 mm below.
• Put on the tip 23 per pipe 21 , fix it in the universal clamp 22 .
• The clamp is mounted in the "Fitting" position.
• The option of attaching the tip to the pipe with a self-tapping screw is possible.

Installation of spillway pipes on siding

• Screw stud М8 - 1 pc .; Nut М8 - 2 pcs .; Washers 015 - 2 pcs. Screw М5х40 - 1 pc., Nut М5 - 1 pc. (come with a clamp).
• With a significant distance to the wall of the house, instead of the M6 ​​screw hairpin 1 it is recommended to use an M8 screw pin. In this case, it is necessary to cut the stud of the required length and drill a hole in the clamp support to the diameter of the stud.
• During installation, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 10 to 12 mm in the flat section of the siding.
• Screw in the hairpin 1 through the center of the hole into the wall of the house (to a depth of at least 40 mm). If the wall is not wooden, a dowel must be installed. The screw part should protrude 20 mm above the siding.
• Screw a nut onto the screw part of the stud 2 flush with the siding surface. Put on a washer with a diameter of 15 mm 3 .
• Place the clamp support 4 on the stud. Screw on the nut from the inside of the clamp support until it stops 5 with washer 15 mm in diameter 6 .
• Extend the clamp support 4 to the desired position ("Pipe" \ "Fitting"). Tighten nut 2 under the support of the clamp until it stops with a wrench.
• Insert clamp 9 into the clamp support and fix it with the M5x40 screw 7 and nuts М5 8 .

Gutter system installation tools

• For markup: tape measure, pencil.
• To attach the brackets: screwdriver, drill, screwdriver.
• To install the brackets: cord, hose level, spirit level.
• To bend metal brackets: bending machine.
• For cuts: hacksaw, saw with a fine tooth, miter box.

Purpose of elements

	Gutter Designed to collect and drain rainwater from the roof surface		Gutter plug Can be installed on both the right and left ends of the gutters to ensure the tightness of the system		Clamp universal Designed for fixing the system to the facade of the building. Has two positions: 1. "pipe", 2. "fitting"
	Downpipe Designed to drain water from the funnel of the gutter to the ground or into the drain		Funnel plug Installed on one of the ends of the funnel to seal the system		Tip Designed to drain water from the drainage system to the ground
	Gutter connector with rubber seal Designed for serial connection of gutters into a single system		Elbow 72 ° These fittings are designed to provide a transition from funnel to pipe. They are also used to bypass architectural elements of the facade. The elbows are connected to each other with a piece of pipes		Bracket, plastic Designed for fixing the gutter on roofs with a frontal board or complete with an extension on roofs without a frontal board
	Funnel Designed to connect gutters and pipes in order to drain water from the drainage system to the drainage system		Elbow 45 °		Bracket metal Designed for fixing the gutter on roofs without a frontal board. Bracket support length - 300 mm
	Funnel mesh (Clear Tube) Prevents leaves, needles and debris from entering the weir		Corner piece 90 ° Corner elements are installed on both external and internal corners of the roof and are designed to connect gutters at an angle of 90 ° (135 °) in order to change the direction of water movement		Extension metal Designed to secure a plastic bracket for roofs without a headboard. The length of the support part of the extension - 240 mm
	Coupling connecting Designed to connect a pipe with a funnel or two pipes		Corner piece 135 °

Such an important architectural element of the roof structure, which is the drainage system, must be thought out even at the design stage. Moreover, modern SNiPs recommend installing the system even before installing the roof covering. However, in reality, not everything is so smooth.

Sometimes circumstances force the installation of a drainage system if the roof is already ready. Accordingly, it will not be superfluous to find out how to install gutters if the roof is already covered.

In what cases the drain is installed during finishing work

Several situations are possible when the need for such an installation arises:

You can also try another option for fixing the hooks to the rafters. The brackets are fixed to the side edge of the rafter bar. The mounting surface of the holders is bent horizontally (this operation can be performed independently). This type of installation is possible only when the cross-section of the rafters is large enough, for example, 12 or 15 * 5 cm. When fixing the brackets, it is important to take into account that the roof covering should overlap the gutter by half or a third of its width. Then you can not be afraid that as a result of heavy rainfall, water will overflow over the edges of the gutter.

Obviously, when installing the brackets on the side edge of the rafter, preliminary fitting is required. In the process of trying on, it will become clear whether such an installation option is possible.

The frontal board is a solid foundation

For those who are wondering how, if the roof is already covered, it is important to know that the simplest installation option is the frontal board.

On a note

It can be easily decorated to make the board look like a stand-alone roof exterior detail.

• Long holders are used if the wind board is wide enough. Such brackets are made of metal, and the leg of the holder and the hook have the same width. Fixation to the board is carried out through the holes provided on the mounting platform, which is located on the leg.
• Short brackets can be used not only for installation on a windboard, like long ones, but also for walls and ends of rafters. True, the reliability of the fastening is in doubt, since the fasteners are located along the grain of the wood.

Pick up short hooks made of the same material. It is also desirable to fix them on metal. Their low weight allows them to be fixed to a wooden wind board without any difficulties.

Separate mention is made of adjustable brackets equipped with a special device. It shifts one relative to another part of the bracket, which sets the slope of the holder location, that is, the angle that forms the hook and the base for the fasteners. To obtain the required angle, all you need to do is tighten the adjustment screws. Such brackets are practically indispensable for use in difficult conditions, for example, if the windboard is inclined.

• When installing separate holders, for a start, a straight line is beaten off on the wind board, observing the slope within three to five mm / linear. m. in the direction of the drain funnel. Having stepped back from the edge of the end part of the wind board (the indent is approximately 50 - 100 mm), mark the place of fixation of the first bracket. After that, along the entire line, the places for installing the holders are marked with a step of no more than 0.6 m (in some cases, even a larger step is permissible, which is necessarily noted in the instructions). After completing the markup, proceed to the installation of the brackets.

• The sufficient width of the roof overhang allows you to use another, very convenient option for installing gutters. Special short holders are attached to a common metal guide profile. The latter, in turn, is fixed either on the wall of the house or on the wind board through the special holes provided on it. When fastening, the guide is immediately given the required slope. Thus, when installing the holders, there is no need to measure their place in height.

After that, brackets are threaded from its lateral side and advanced along the guide, placing them with the required step. It is noteworthy that such holders do not need to be fixed, since they “sit” quite firmly in the profile. Undoubtedly, this is another advantage of such a fastening system.

"Crutches" as a basis

Sometimes there is no wind board in the roof structure at all. Then they resort to using special "crutches" made of metal or wood, fixed in the wall. The grooves are attached directly to the "crutches" on pins or bars.

Fastening along the edge of the roof

This method is justified when fixing the roof drainage system along its eaves. This option is suitable for almost any roofing material. The brackets are fastened using clamps (this is how special clamps are called).

If the system is fixed to a wave material, then the holders are attached either to the lower or upper point of its wave. In this case, it is advisable to lay rubber gaskets under the legs of metal clamps on both sides of the roofing sheet. Thus, you can solve two problems at once: to slightly reduce the load and soften the compression on the sheet.

Additional brackets

When using the above option for installing gutters, you can also use short hooks, but with one condition. In addition to these, L-shaped metal brackets are required. Their long part is fixed on the side edge of the rafter. As for the curved shelf with a mounting platform on short parts, a short PVC holder is fixed to it. It should be noted that in some cases this is the only way to fix the holders to the previously laid roof without damaging it. For example, if the roof protrudes beyond the ends of the rafters on the eaves overhang of the order of 12-15 cm.

Invisible brackets

The construction market also offers brackets that hold the gutter from above, as opposed to the traditional version from the bottom. They are completely invisible after installation. Such holders are fixed at a distance of 400 - 700 mm between them. If this condition is violated, there is a high probability of significant deformation of the gutter, caused by the effect of a significant load of ice or snow gravity.

The brackets, which are used when installing to the crate, or from above to the rafters, must first be bent. In this way, the holder is given the desired shape, which allows it to subsequently be ideally adjusted to the slope of the slope.

Pull-up fastening

The pendant mount is less popular than the above options. However, in some cases, such a design is the only possible way. This type of bracket has special bends. During installation, one of them is put on the front edge of the gutter, while the second is hooked on the back. The holder is provided with a sleeve having an internal thread. The fastening element is screwed into the wall or wind board through the bushing and the upper section of the gutter wall.

How to install roof gutters correctly : other possible ways

• Mansard type roof brackets can be fixed directly to walls after careful measurements and subsequent marking.
• On a filing made of soffits of the required width, the brackets are fixed to L-shaped metal profiles, which are screwed to the soffit sheathing.
• In the absence of a frontal board, or if the soffit is narrow enough, use special metal pins with a pointed end. They can be straight or L-shaped. A hole of a suitable diameter is pre-drilled in a brick or concrete wall and filled with a concrete solution, then a pin is driven in. After the mortar has completely set, you can start installing the gutters.

On a note

When marking the location of the pins, the necessary slope must be provided in the direction of the funnel of the drainage system.