Supply and exhaust ventilation of the apartment. Supply ventilation with air filtration and heating

Ventilation in apartment buildings often works unsatisfactorily. Because of this, children and adults get sick, furniture gets damaged, and building structures become covered in fungus. Neither air purifiers nor household air conditioners solve the problem. For air hygiene in rooms, it is necessary to organize air exchange. Not every family can afford to install an expensive ventilation system. However, in the battle for freshness, you can often get by with little loss by adopting the simplest and most accessible technologies.

Air mass roads

Most modern residential multi-apartment buildings provide natural (gravity) exhaust ventilation. Fresh air enters the rooms mainly through leaks in the windows (between the sash and the frame) and from there, through the undercuts of the interior doors, it moves into the corridor, and then to the ventilation grilles in the bathroom and kitchen. Along the way, the air absorbs various types of pollution.

From apartments, polluted air enters the exhaust ducts of natural ventilation, which in multi-storey buildings (6 or more floors), as a rule, transport it to a warm attic, from which the air is removed into the atmosphere through common building exhaust shafts. In buildings up to 5 floors high, the “exhaust” usually goes directly into the atmosphere (in this case, the ventilation ducts are brought to the roof, their heads are covered with deflectors).

Natural ventilation ducts are installed in houses during the construction phase: they are made from floor-by-floor standardized concrete blocks. Each vertical of apartments can be served by two ventilation ducts, and if the bathroom and kitchen are nearby, then one is enough.

To ensure fire protection and optimal aerodynamics, in most modern houses, polluted air does not enter the ventilation ducts immediately, but through satellite ducts. The source of the satellite is behind the wall ventilators in the kitchen (in the toilet, bathroom), and the outlet, connected to the general house channel, is on the floor above.

Unfortunately, gravity ventilation does not always work effectively enough. In addition, residents, wanting to squeeze more equipment they really need into their small kitchens and bathrooms, often encroach on the integrity of the ventilation ducts, although this is strictly prohibited. As a result, the functionality of the natural ventilation system is disrupted, the restoration of which becomes very difficult and costly.

Methods for organizing effective ventilation on a whole-house scale are discussed in detail in modern technical literature, for example, in the recommendations of TR ABOK-4–2004. We will limit ourselves to a review of typical apartment ventilation problems and simple technical solutions, which are easy to implement to improve air exchange.

Only fans...

The performance of natural ventilation depends on random climatic factors - wind speed and direction, indoor and outdoor air temperature, and others. For example, in winter, with a large temperature difference in the apartment and outside, a natural ventilation system can work well, but in summer its effectiveness drops sharply.

If the apartment has ordinary wooden windows (those that were installed in all residential buildings during the USSR), in winter, autumn and spring the ventilation efficiency of the residents is quite satisfactory, then the problem is solved with the help of one or two fans installed in the exhaust openings in the bathrooms and on kitchen.

The most widely used fans today are those that operate on 220 V (in rooms with high humidity, fans rated at 12 V are used). Such devices are fixed in exhaust openings in discharge shafts or at the end of the air duct. Such a device can be turned on and off using a rope switch or, what happens more often, from the light switch at the entrance to the kitchen or bathroom.

However, other control methods are possible, depending on the type of ventilated room.

For example, the bathroom is the main source of high humidity in the apartment. Waterproof models with a humidity sensor are often used here. Such a device turns on automatically when the level of relative humidity in the bathroom exceeds a specified limit (can be set to turn on at 60–90%), and turns off when the steam evaporates, wet surfaces dry out, evaporation slows down and the air in the room becomes drier.

Among the models with a humidity sensor, we can note Decor 300CH from Soler&Palau, CB-100 PLUS H from Cata, E-Style 100 PRO MHY (smart) from Elicent and others.

In toilets, fans with a motion sensor and a shutdown delay timer are very often used. When a person appears, such a fan automatically turns on, and after the room is empty, a timer controls the operation of the fan for a set time (2–20 minutes). At the end of the delay period, it deactivates the fan. An example is the 100/125 MA TP model from Vents.

In the kitchen, fans are used that are turned on by a signal from an external air quality sensor.

The sensor is usually a device the size of a cigarette box, and its sensors constantly monitor indoor air quality. As soon as it worsens (the smell of cigarette smoke appears, as well as unpleasant odors), the fan is activated. After the air quality has returned to normal, the sensor automatically turns off the device with a short time delay (3–20 minutes).

An example is the Vario (Vortice) axial wall fan model with a C Smoke sensor.

Cheap fan models are consumables; be prepared to replace them after 3–6 months of continuous use. Only the highest quality devices can operate up to 30,000–40,000 hours in a row (approximately 4.5 years). If you want your apartment to be ventilated more intensively, buy a fan with a powerful motor that has a turbo function. However, here you need to know when to stop. In order not to harm others, the fan’s air output should not exceed 90–120 m 3 /h.

In addition to the fans of the listed companies, it is worth noting devices from the brands Sylavent, O. ERRE, Xpelair, Ductex, Systemair, Maico Ventilatoren, Ballu Machine, as well as Arktos and Smart.

Windows+

If you were quite satisfied with the efficiency of ventilation in your apartment before installing sealed plastic windows with double-glazed windows, and after their installation you felt a lack of fresh air, solving the problem of air supply to your home may turn out to be unexpectedly simple. Set the window latches to winter ventilation mode (latch handle up and slightly to the right) or summer ventilation mode (handle up). Through the cracks formed in the window narthexes, the fresh air necessary for breathing will leak into the rooms. You don't need any additional instruments or devices.

Alas, through windows slightly open even in this way, street noise will penetrate into the house, and drafts will arise, especially dangerous for the elderly and children. If these phenomena are unacceptable, to depressurize the apartment it is better to use supply ventilation valves, which provide silent access to fresh air into the home and normalization of natural ventilation.

Supply ventilation valves can be installed in various places in the apartment. This can be an external wall - on the side of the window, at the height of a person (for example, KIV-125 valves), a foamed window-wall joint (Climabox valves from KVE), a sash or impost profile of a plastic or wooden window (EMM valves from " Aereco"). Siegenia - Aubi offers very interesting models of supply ventilation valves, mounted in the gap between the end of the glass unit and the window profile (Aeromat-80) or under the window sill board (Aeroflet).

Supply ventilation valves do not consume electricity; their capacity, depending on the model, can range from 2 to 50 m 3 / h (for some models, the flow rate can be adjusted manually or automatically).

The number and location of valves is determined according to calculation. Usually they are installed in every living space, at least two valves per apartment. For example, to normalize the operation of a natural ventilation system that removes 90 m 3 /h of exhaust air from a house, it is enough to install 3-4 valves in living rooms with a capacity of 30 m 3 /h each with a pressure difference between the apartment and the street of 10 Pa.

It must be said that the better the draft in the ventilation ducts and the higher the wind pressure on the facades, the more air will flow through the supply ventilation valves into the home. Sometimes there may even be too much supply air, so the valves have to be closed. It is not recommended to place the head of the bed, especially a child’s bed, next to the valves, since in winter they give off a noticeable cold.

But in summer, in calm weather, fresh air may not enter the house at all, even if the valves are completely open. Therefore, in order to provide an apartment with fresh air (especially if it is located on the last or penultimate floor of the house), in addition to valves, it is still better to equip the exhaust openings in the kitchen and bathroom with good exhaust fans.

Overhaul or replacement?

Redevelopment carried out by a neighbor above, or a banal blockage of the satellite air duct (after long-term operation, kilograms of soot, pieces of concrete are removed from it...) often leads to the fact that the exhaust air is not removed from the apartment at all. The candle flame in front of the ventilation grilles does not even flutter. To reanimate the ventilation system, it is enough to contact the management company, whose specialists will help to find out and eliminate the cause of the lack of draft. However, you may not be able to wait for help...

If you cannot tolerate musty air in your home, there is an option to organize an individual apartment exhaust ventilation system that discharges exhaust air from the kitchen and bathroom directly to the street, and simply install plugs on the existing exhaust ventilation openings in these rooms.

Such a system can operate in continuous mode or “on demand” (for example, it can be activated by a signal from humidity sensors or air quality sensors in the apartment). The bottleneck of such installations is freezing of exhaust vents on the street in severe cold weather. However, most of the year they function without problems - if only there was electricity in the house.

First of all, for normal operation of the system, access of fresh air from the street to the living quarters - bedroom, living room - is necessary. If the rooms have old wooden windows, no special equipment will be required. If plastic windows with a sealed sash are installed, then the flow of air into the living rooms will most likely have to be organized. For example, using the supply valves already mentioned above, mounted in through holes in the external walls.

Air exhaust from the kitchen is often achieved using a wall-mounted centrifugal exhaust fan placed over a through hole cut into the outer wall of the house. From the side of the house façade, the opening is closed with an exhaust ventilation grille.

A centrifugal wall fan for the kitchen should have a built-in check valve to prevent cold air from flowing into the room from the street when it is turned off. Example: fans of the CF series (Vents). In the southern regions, axial exhaust fans with automatic shutters are also used, mounted in a through hole with a diameter of 100–150 mm in the window glazing. Similar devices are supplied to the Russian market under the trademarks Vortice, Sylavent, O. ERRE, Xpelair, Ductex and others.

To extract air from the bathroom and toilet - rooms that usually do not come into contact with the outer walls of the house, you will need a moisture-proof duct fan with a capacity of approximately 80-150 m 3 / h: it is usually installed in the bathroom, behind a false ceiling. With its help, moist air from the bathroom and toilet is pumped out into the street through an air duct - moisture-resistant and sound-proof. Such an air duct must be laid through the living rooms, along the shortest path to the nearest external wall, in the space behind the hemming flow, or in the voids of the decorative lowering of the ceiling along the perimeter of the room. The air intake in the bathroom and the air duct outlet on the street are covered with ventilation grilles.

For bathrooms in an apartment, it is logical to buy a centrifugal fan with a low noise level (32–36 dB (A)), adapted for long-term operation (resource - at least 30,000–40,000 hours).

We can recommend VKP-mini (Vents) with a capacity of 80 to 176 m 3 /h. Up to 4 short air ducts can be connected to the inlet pipes of this device, and only one outlet pipe. Durable models of duct fans made of polymer materials, which do not mind long-term contact with moist, polluted air, are produced by Vortice (Lineo model range), Cata (SMT), Panasonic (FV-12NS1), Shuft and others.

Among the manufacturers of air ducts, we note the companies DEC, Diaflex, Sodiamex. The companies Trox, Systemair, Halton, Swegon, IMP Klima, and Arktos have a wide range of high-quality supply and exhaust ventilation grilles.

No smog or smell

In modern megacities, plastic windows are often installed only to tightly isolate an apartment from the street. The air outside the windows, due to its proximity to the highway, is polluted with a host of dangerous chemical compounds. And its inhalation over time necessarily affects the health of household members...

Alas, sealing the home, as the only measure to combat smog, does not bode well for apartment residents. In a closed home, the air quickly becomes even more toxic than outside. Therefore, in addition to installing sealed windows, it is necessary to equip the home with a mechanical ventilation system.

The simplest solution is an air supply unit that thoroughly cleans the street air of contaminants and, if necessary, heats it to a comfortable +17 ºС before supplying it to the apartment. Exhaust air from the home is discharged through natural exhaust ventilation channels (if they are in working order), otherwise - using the apartment's individual exhaust ventilation system.

Such systems, if, of course, they are correctly designed and installed, maintain the highest level of climatic comfort in the room and do not create drafts. There are no problems with heating the supply air even in severe cold.

To organize the flow of fresh, purified air into a room with an area of ​​10–30 m2, air supply units for one room, for example Marta, or other similar devices are very convenient. This installation is mounted under a window or in any other place in the room, but always on a wall bordering the street. It sucks air from the atmosphere (usually in a volume of 40 to 120 m 3 /h) through a channel drilled in the wall with a diameter of 100–150 mm, processes the flow to the required conditions, and then releases it into the room.

It is noteworthy that air handling units for one room can be installed in already finished rooms, without disturbing the interior, without spoiling the finish, and in just a few hours. In recirculation mode, the unit works as a highly efficient room air purifier.

If several rooms need street air purified from pollutants at once, it is logical to consider the possibility of installing a ventilation system based on a monoblock air handling unit. It will take air from the street, prepare it accordingly, and then supply it through a network of supply air ducts to all rooms that need it. If the house you live in has a courtyard and the air quality there is better than that of the facade facing the roadway, then it is logical to “feed” the apartment with fresh air from this more environmentally friendly air pool.

Structurally, a monoblock air handling unit for an apartment is a box assembled from thermally insulated panels; inside the unit there is a duct or centrifugal fan, an electric air heater (most often single-phase, 220 V, but in some cases three-phase models at 380 V are also used), filters, as well as an automation system and other elements.

Central air supply units are installed on the loggia, but sometimes also directly in the apartment - for example, on the mezzanine, in the pantry, in the dressing room or in the corridor. Depending on the design features, they are placed behind a false ceiling, installed on the floor or on a wall, in a horizontal or vertical position.

Models with a weather-resistant coating of the body and sufficiently effective thermal insulation can be located outside the heated zone - on a loggia or wall of a building - just like external units of split systems. It is only necessary to provide for the possibility of their regular maintenance (filter replacement, engine repair and other work).

To supply air to rooms, an air collector duct (main section) is often provided, from which supply air ducts of smaller diameter are routed to different rooms. The network of ventilation ducts is located behind the suspended ceiling. Air distribution devices that harmonize with the interior are installed at the mouths of the supply air ducts.

After connecting to the network and starting up, the air handling unit operates automatically all year round. It is only important to pay electricity bills on time and carry out maintenance.

Among the monoblock air handling units for large rooms, one can note TLP and TA-MINI from Systemair, SAU125 A from Ostberg, CAU from SHUFT, “Compact” from Arktos, “Elf” from Engineering Equipment, Fresh Air from Electrolux, GLP 125 from General Climate, KKP from VEZA, Alfa Vent from 2VV and others. Well, we have already mentioned the manufacturers of high-quality air ducts, exhaust fans and ventilation grilles above.

Material provided

In old apartment buildings, ventilation is equipped according to Soviet standards, so it may not cope with its assigned function. Usually this is a simple system where air circulation is provided by fans installed in kitchens and bathrooms.

Recently, supply and exhaust ventilation systems have been rapidly gaining popularity, designed for installation in apartment buildings and being an alternative to outdated analogues. Let's get acquainted with the equipment in more detail.

Why do we need supply ventilation systems?

Struggling with street noise and heat loss, people install plastic windows and don’t even think that they are sealing themselves in a real chemical laboratory, stuffed with toxic substances. Plastic furniture, consumer electronics, synthetic carpets and artificial flooring fill the air with formaldehyde and other toxic substances that settle in the lungs every day.

Installing supply ventilation will ensure a stable flow of fresh air, removing recycled oxygen using exhaust fans.

As a result, proper air exchange is maintained in the apartment, creating a cozy and healthy microclimate. In this case, you can refuse ventilation by opening the windows, which will provide reliable sound insulation.

An important advantage of installing such systems is the prevention of wall mold and getting rid of persistent odors. Other pros and cons can be seen in the table.

The existing shortcomings do not cause inconvenience in operation and do not affect the popularity of ventilation systems.

Residential ventilation standards

For air exchange in apartments there are certain requirements regulated SP 54. 13330 as amended in 2011. It is stated here that the minimum air circulation in apartment buildings should be no lower than 3 m 3 per square meter of area.

There are slightly different requirements for the hood. In particular:

Kitchen areas equipped with electric stoves – 60 m 3 /hour.

Kitchen areas equipped with gas stoves – 90 m 3 /hour.

Combined bathrooms – 50 m 3 /hour.

Separate bath, toilet, shower room – 25 m 3 /hour.

Utility rooms: dressing rooms, storage rooms – 25 m 3 /hour.

In addition, there are certain requirements for temperatures inside residential premises. The optimal temperature is considered 20-22 o C And 22-25 o C for cold and warm seasons, respectively.

Types of equipment used for ventilation in apartments and country houses

Ventilation systems installed in apartments can be divided into three categories, depending on functionality, operating principle and installation features. Let's look at each category in more detail.

When installing such equipment, supply valves are installed in the apartment. The elements are plastic pipes that are mounted into the wall and covered from the outside with an aluminum casing. There is thermal insulation inside.

On the inside, the valve is equipped with a filter and a damper, which help regulate the air flow. The valve does not provide independent air flow inside the apartment (there is no fan here). Circulation is ensured by removing exhaust air through the ventilation ducts of kitchens and bathrooms.

In order for the air flow to move smoothly from the valve to the exhaust system, it is necessary to leave gaps under the interior doors, 1.5-2 cm wide.

Advantages

Flaws

a budget option that provides the apartment with an influx of fresh air; reliability - there are no mechanical elements in the design; simplicity – if you have certain skills, the system can be installed independently; comfort – the system does not make noise during operation; ease of use - the valve does not require complex maintenance; if necessary, it is washed with water; the internal space is not cluttered; the system is not connected to the city power grid.

To install the system, the standard hood must function normally in the house; relatively small influx of fresh air ( no more than 40 m 3 /hour for one valve); During installation, through drilling of the wall will be required, which causes certain difficulties in monolithic buildings.

The effectiveness of natural ventilation decreases noticeably when the outdoor temperature exceeds +10 degrees.

Forced air circulation

This is more complex equipment Efficiency which is much higher than that of the previous system. Such devices are also called typesetting devices, due to their multi-component design, in which the following elements are placed inside a metal box with sound insulation:

fan;

heater;

air filter;

check valve;

automatic control system.

Such models are installed outside residential premises. Installation is usually carried out on balconies, in bathrooms and utility rooms, behind suspended ceilings.

The equipment in such systems forcibly pumps fresh air into the apartment, squeezing out the old air through the ventilation shafts. If the general house air exchange system does not work, the equipment is equipped with exhaust fans. Some models are equipped with a built-in recuperator, which heats the air flow entering the premises.

Installation of forced ventilation systems involves the installation of rigid or flexible air ducts, which will require minor reconstruction of the apartment.

The following facts are considered to be the advantages of the equipment:

circulation does not depend on the functionality of the exhaust shafts;

equipment operates with minimal noise levels;

possibility of fine adjustment of air flow;

automatic maintenance of the microclimate inside the apartment;

filtration removes harmful impurities from the air;

automated operation in a given mode;

budget cost of consumables.

Significant disadvantages include the need to install a suspended ceiling to mask air ducts and a significant increase in electricity consumption.

In addition, installation of such a system is possible only during renovations in the apartment.

Combined system

Due to their design features, such models are considered the most affordable and practical to use. The principle of operation of the system is the supply of fresh air through supply valves located in window frames or walls. Exhaust air is removed using exhaust fans.

Considering that in the winter season cold air will flow inside the premises, it makes sense to place supply valves above heating radiators or electric heating devices. In this case, the cold stream will mix evenly with the warm air flow, providing a comfortable temperature in the living area.

The exhaust fans of such a system operate constantly; during the daytime, when there are no residents in the apartment, the speed can be reduced to minimum values.

Advantages:

the absence of complex elements, which ensures the reliability of the system;

does not clutter up the internal space;

no special maintenance required;

stable air exchange at any time of the year;

The disadvantages are the lack of an air heating system and a filter for pre-cleaning in the supply valves. In addition, the air exchange of combined systems is noticeably lower than that of other models.

Three manufacturers of reliable, time-tested installations

In order for supply and exhaust ventilation to fully cope with its function, you need to carefully select the manufacturer. Equipment from several companies is presented on the domestic market, but not all of the products offered meet the requirements of standards for ventilation of residential premises. Among the variety offered, you can pay attention to foreign brands.

Manufacturer	general information	Features of ventilation systems
MITSUBISHI ELECTRIC	A Japanese company making history since 1921. Initially, the manufacturer's specialization was the development of household electrical equipment and automotive electronics systems. The range and areas of activity of the company were constantly expanding. It is now the largest supplier of ventilation devices in Europe.	Adaptation of equipment to any climatic conditions. Even in Russia, where sudden temperature changes are observed, the systems operate with maximum efficiency and have minimal energy consumption.
ELECTROLUX	A large Swedish concern founded in 1910 Axel Wenner-Gren. The company's production lines are located in many countries around the world, the concern owns trademarks REX, ZANUSSI, AEG, FLYMO.	Wide range of models. High quality components. Modern software. The equipment is characterized by high performance and ease of use.
BALLU MACHINE	Asian holding founded in 2009, the birthplace of the brand is China. Currently, the company produces over 300 models of industrial equipment, including ventilation and air conditioning systems.	High build quality. Affordable price segment. Mandatory equipment with air filters. The systems are easy to use and do not require complex maintenance.

In addition, the ventilation units produced by the Polish company are worthy of close attention. DAIKIN and supply and exhaust systems VENTS, which are produced in Ukraine.

Even at the stage of designing a house, you need to think about fresh air in the premises. Moreover, it may be that self-designed ventilation will work no worse than professionally designed one. Perhaps the solution will not be so elegant - the main thing is that it is workable.

Definition and severity of the problem

Ventilation refers to the specially organized movement of air masses. It is necessary to create comfortable and healthy living conditions for humans. In general, the system is very difficult to calculate. There are simply no standard solutions that suit everyone or at least some group of users. Each project is individual. Even the location of one grille or fan plays a role. A lot depends on the position of the house relative to the wind rose and many other little things. For self-designed ventilation to work well, you need to seriously understand.

Ventilation is an organized exchange of air masses, during which exhaust air is replaced with fresh air

So you understand how serious this is

According to sanitary standards, one person at rest processes about 30 cubic meters of air per hour. If the air is not renewed, oxygen becomes less and less, carbon dioxide and other waste products become more and more. As the amount of oxygen decreases, your health worsens. Prolonged lack of oxygen provokes the development of diseases.

A few numbers, physiologists, reflecting the influence of the level of carbon dioxide CO2 on the human condition:

Physiologists consider the carbon dioxide content in the air at 1400 ppm to be the lowest point for relatively normal human functioning. All indicators with a large amount of carbon dioxide are already beyond the bounds.

A good example

To assess the severity of the situation without ventilation, we present a graph of CO2 levels. It was filmed as an experiment. To assess how necessary ventilation is in a modern house/apartment with plastic windows and thermal insulation measures taken.

Experimental conditions. Bedroom 13 square meters (37 cubic meters), one person and one medium-sized dog. The house has exhaust ventilation, a riser in the kitchen and in the boiler room. An exhaust fan is installed in the boiler room, which runs on a timer half the night and half the day. There is no air supply, fresh air is available through windows that have ventilation and micro-ventilation functions.

Information to explain the graph:

• Point 1. From 20 o'clock - work at the computer, doors slightly open, window closed.
• Point 2. The window was opened, the doors were slightly open, everyone left the room.
• Between 1-2 they returned to the room, closed the window, then opened it. All this can be tracked by fluctuations in CO2 levels.
• Point 3. At 3:35 the doors and windows are closed, the man and the dog are sleeping.
• Point 4. 9-20 am, the man woke up. The CO2 level is 2600 ppm, which is significantly below the extreme norm. The window was opened, and the carbon dioxide level returned to normal in less than an hour (Point 5).

As you can see from the graph, most of the night passes with very high concentrations of carbon dioxide. This may be the cause of fatigue and poor health in the morning. In general, everything is clear. If you wish, you can conduct a similar experiment yourself. All you need is a weather station with the ability to measure carbon dioxide levels (with memory). Looking at the results of the experiment, the importance of the ventilation system is difficult to overestimate. Let's figure out how it works.

The principle of operation of ventilation of a house and apartment

All ventilation systems are divided into two types - with natural air movement and with forced one.

Air always moves from a zone of higher pressure to a zone of lower pressure. This property is used in natural ventilation systems. The higher pressure area is usually located in the apartment/house. If there are ventilation ducts/openings, air from the premises should tend to flow outside. But a new one must take the place of the “departed” one, otherwise the movement will stop. That is why for the normal operation of the ventilation system, both an outflow of exhaust air and an influx of fresh air are necessary. And this is worth taking care of. Only then will ventilation - whether made/developed by yourself or not - work effectively.

Keep in mind that “breathing” walls have nothing to do with air exchange. At best, they help regulate humidity. But only. Likewise, a regular air conditioner does not add oxygen. It only maintains the specified parameters of the existing air. It only removes excess moisture and has nothing to do with air exchange. Air inflow must be ensured in the same way as outflow, using windows (not the most effective way) or special devices.

Inflow problems

It would seem that there is nothing simpler - make a hole in the wall - here you have an influx of oxygen. This may be true somewhere, but not in our climate, when most of the year the temperature outside is far from comfortable. What's wrong? A number of unpleasant moments:

As you can see, a “simple” hole in the wall becomes a very complex device. Moreover, little from this list can be neglected. Existence will be too uncomfortable.

Exhaust ventilation

Exhaust ventilation in an apartment building is a large pipe that runs through all floors and goes out to the roof. All apartments “in the riser” are connected to it. Under normal conditions, due to the difference in pressure in the apartment and on the roof, a “draft” is formed, which draws air from the premises (it also works when there is an inflow).

This is how you can organize exhaust ventilation in a house or apartment. You just need to take into account that the channel must “pull” the entire required volume of air

In apartment buildings, risers are usually located in the kitchen and/or bathroom. All other rooms are ventilated through these hoods. For normal air exchange in the bathroom and kitchen doors, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps (under the door or make flow holes in the wall) or install grilles.

In a private house, everything is organized in approximately the same way: a main ventilation duct is installed in the kitchen or bathroom, which is led to the roof. There is no point in finishing it in the attic. Even if the attic is cold and ventilated. When there is a difference in temperature and high humidity in the removed air, a large amount of condensation is formed. Even with good ventilation in the attic, it does not have time to escape, the ceiling gets wet, and the walls become damp. In general, this is a bad idea.

Air duct material

A few words about the material from which the exhaust ventilation duct in a private house is made. Most often, galvanized pipes are used, and they are of round cross-section. Their resistance to air flow is minimal. They take second place in popularity. There are more problems with them - they accumulate static, which contributes to the accumulation of dust, and are less resistant to fire. The advantages include simpler installation, the presence of ready-made shaped elements, with the help of which it is easy to create any system. In the case of these materials, the choice is yours - use what you like best.

What you shouldn’t do is remove the exhaust duct from the brick. Firstly, it is expensive (you also need a foundation for it), and secondly, it is the most problematic to use, since it has uneven walls, which contributes to the accumulation of dust. Condensation accumulates in brick walls that are not covered with a metal sleeve, causing the brick to quickly collapse. In general, brick exhaust ducts are a thing of the past.

Additional devices

What else may be needed in an exhaust system are check valves. They prevent the air from moving in the opposite direction, which occurs when the draft is overturned.” When the pressure in the apartment/house becomes lower than outside. Also, check valves prevent the spread of odors from the kitchen/toilet to other rooms connected to the duct.

Check valves - a simple device

In general, the design of the exhaust system is simpler. But only if the cross-section of the ventilation duct is correctly calculated, the route is correctly drawn up and installation is carried out correctly.

Natural or forced

There are two types of ventilation - natural and forced. What's better? It's difficult to say for sure. Everyone decides for themselves, taking into account all the advantages and disadvantages of both types.

Natural ventilation in a house works due to the difference in pressure indoors and outdoors (due to the existence of that very “natural draft”). Its advantages are noiselessness and independence from electricity. Disadvantages - low productivity due to which large cross-section pipes are required, inability to control/regulate the intensity of work, dependence on the state of the external environment. In summer, natural ventilation often does not work, and sometimes it works in the opposite direction. This is when hot air is “pulled” into the room through the exhaust ventilation duct.

Forced ventilation in a private house - install fans of a suitable type

In forced ventilation, air movement is provided by fans. It can be adjustable and works in any weather, but only if there is electricity and working fans. And this is a minus. Even two. The first is energy dependence, the second is the noise that fans make during operation. Therefore, many people prefer to use plastic air ducts in forced ventilation systems. Precisely because they are “quiet”.

Ventilation schemes for private houses and apartments

The simplest option is implemented in small houses and apartments. Supply openings are located in living rooms, hoods - in the kitchen and bathroom. The air entering the premises penetrates through the cracks under the doors into the kitchen and bathroom, where it is exhausted. This scheme works for an area of ​​no more than 100 square meters.

When the supply ventilation is separate devices in each room, the exhaust is through the kitchen or bathroom

In houses with a total area of ​​more than one hundred and fifty square meters, two separate systems are organized - supply and exhaust. Each of them has its own air duct system. With this arrangement, each room has exhaust and supply openings in each room. In this case, adjusting the intensity of air inflow and outflow is possible in each room - you can adjust the atmosphere to the requirements of its inhabitants.

With a centralized supply ventilation system, it is easier to prepare the air taken from the street - you can create a unified cleaning and heating system. The prepared air can now be distributed throughout the premises. In this case, each room has two ventilation openings - one supply, one exhaust. They are located in opposite corners and covered with grilles or diffusers.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house can be organized in this way: the supply is decentralized, the exhaust is centralized

Even with a large area of ​​the house, the supply ventilation system can be made decentralized, as in the first scheme. With the correct selection of equipment, it will work no less efficiently. The question is which will be more economically profitable, since the problem of air preparation for each supply channel will have to be solved. And the equipment is not cheap at all.

DIY ventilation: action plan

To design a ventilation system yourself, you will have to perform a number of actions. It's easier if the sequence is known.

Preparatory work

Collecting information and basic calculations - this is where the independent creation of a ventilation project begins.

Preliminary data is ready. Take some time to think about where and what devices should be located.

Parameter calculations and detailing

When all the issues regarding the scheme have been resolved, it has taken its final form, we proceed to detailing. First, there are also calculations, then you have to look for the components of the system, decide which company to use the equipment and reduce the budget.

Installation and configuration

“All that remains” is to find, buy, install. Little has been written, but it will take a lot of effort, time, and nerves to implement this point. Only after this can we say that the DIY ventilation is completely ready.

But that’s not all. Self-made ventilation must be started and adjusted. This is also not the easiest process to achieve coordinated operation of the system as a whole. Then, during operation, reconfiguration has to be done frequently. When the season changes, the number of residents changes, weather conditions change. In general, adjusting the ventilation system is another responsibility of the home owner.

By the way, we advise you to think about it. Do-it-yourself ventilation (meaning installation) will cost less, but it requires more knowledge and time. Knowledge can be gained, but if there is a lack of time, you will have to look for and hire performers, then accept their work.

Other solutions

The market does not stand still, and today new solutions are being offered. For example, there are recuperation systems that immediately, through one hole in the wall, remove exhaust air and supply fresh air. This is an ideal solution if you have taken care of ventilation after renovation or if you need to solve the problem only in some rooms. The main thing is that these rooms have at least one wall facing the street.

There is only one drawback of this method of organizing ventilation in a house or apartment - the price of such equipment. The cost of one such device is more than $400.

Another year has passed unnoticed since I published an annual report on the operation of the compact supply ventilation - the Tion O2 breather. I continue to share my impressions. As I have mentioned many times before, this device has radically changed the quality of life for our family. Previously, I had not thought at all about the fact that fresh air is not a luxury, but a vital necessity, and if in the summer we lived with constantly open vents on the windows, then in the winter we had to close them because of the cold. At this very moment, that same autumn-winter depression began, constant drowsiness and loss of strength.

But all this is already a thing of the past.

I will not repeat myself, since I have written a lot of materials on the topic of why fresh and clean air is needed, which can be viewed under the tag. Forced supply ventilation is basic in any modern home, be it a city apartment or a country house. I hope this is obvious to everyone, so today I propose to consider the options of what the market can offer to buyers in the segment of compact air handling units for an apartment (we will consider centralized air handling units in a separate article).

I'll start with what happened over the past year.

Operating costs for fresh and clean air in the apartment consist of two parts. The first part is the consumption of electrical energy to reheat the air coming from the street, and the amount of energy consumed directly depends on how well your central heating heats. In our conditions, one breather consumes from 400 to 600 kWh of electrical energy per year. That is, this is an additional several thousand rubles per year. This is not only a negligible price to pay for family health, but there are also no alternatives (more on this later).

The second part of the costs consists of periodic replacement of filter elements because They ensure the purity of the air coming from the street. Long-term observations allowed us to develop the following filter replacement scenario:

1. I change the carbon odor filter once a year (or more often).
2. I change the basic and HEPA filter once every 2 years. Despite the fact that the HEPA filter can objectively work longer.
3. Twice a year I clean coarse dust (lint) from the supply chamber and from the base filter using a vacuum cleaner.

In the photo on the left you can see the condition of the filters after two years of use. And in the photo on the right is a comparison of the new and old HEPA filter. But HEPA filters are cool because their filtering ability improves as they become dirty.

And this is another O2 breather installed in the second room. In 2014, we installed the first breather, but after a year of operation we realized that we definitely needed a second one. Calculating the number of breathers per apartment is very simple: 1 breather for a maximum of 2 people, otherwise there will be a lot of noise. Both breathers are connected to the Tion MagicAir control station. One of the breathers operates in fully automatic mode, guided by a CO2 carbon dioxide concentration sensor, and automatically sets the speed from 0 to 2 depending on the number of people in the room. The second breather operates on a timer (speed 1 at night, speed 2 during the day) because... For automatic operation, you need a second CO2 sensor in the room where the second breather is installed. In a good way, you would need to buy it so that both breathers work completely autonomously.

I honestly admit that I did not immediately appreciate the automatic control mode. We leave the apartment - the CO2 concentration drops - the breather turns off. We return home - the CO2 concentration increases - the breather turns on. There is no need to enable or disable anything manually, everything works automatically. Despite the presence of a mobile application for controlling breathers, I honestly don’t remember the last time I launched it. This is simply not necessary.

By the way, about PM2.5 particles. Since the beginning of this year, I have been taking measurements of air quality in Moscow and I can say that in general the air in the city is clean, but sometimes there are local emissions of particulate matter or just the flowering season (allergy sufferers will understand). The three-stage supply air purification system very effectively traps all solid particles and they do not enter the apartment. But, as it turned out, there is a nuance.

This phenomenon was discovered precisely because I began to use the breathers in automatic mode and they turned off when we were not in the apartment. On one of these days, I received a notification from the AirVisual home station (installed in the apartment) that a high concentration of PM2.5 particles had been recorded. What happened?

The breathers did not work and there was no slight excess pressure created in the apartment compared to the environment. But the exhaust ventilation shaft (in the kitchen and bathroom) has not gone away. And dirty street air was sucked in through leaks and cracks in the enclosing structures - in particular through cracks in window frames.

Thus, if the air outside is polluted and you don’t have a breather, then, of course, it’s worth closing the window, but it’s not effective. And if there is a breather, then under no circumstances should it be turned off in such a situation.

Now let's talk about alternative devices that are presented on the Russian market. There really aren't that many of them. And the most surprising thing is that in terms of the totality of characteristics, the O2 breather (this particular model) from Tion has no competitors at all.

iFresh
It has very mediocre purification of the supply air (there is no HEPA filter and absolutely no carbon filter), there is no intelligent heating control (you will go broke on heating), the damper is manually controlled, you can’t dream of automating the control, it costs more.

Aeropac SN
It also has poor purification of the supply air (there is no HEPA filter, but at least there is a more or less normal carbon filter), no heating of the supply air at all (hello, drafts), a manually controlled damper, low performance, no automation. There's only one plus - it's cheaper.

Lufter Jet Helix
It has a combined carbon filter (there is no HEPA filter), but its usable area is still smaller than that of Tion. But it has a very compact body, automatic heating control and a quiet EC fan. It costs expensive. If it had the ability to automate control using a CO2 sensor, it could seriously compete with Tion when operating in clean areas.

Ballu Air Master 2
Essentially a copied copy of Tion, supplemented with an incredible number of completely unnecessary options such as recycling (there are no sources of PM2.5 particles in living rooms, they are outside - what to clean?) and aroma capsules (well, yes, allergy sufferers will especially “appreciate” this option). The design is copied from Tion, so the filtration quality is just as high, but there is a nuance - the ceramic heater is placed in front of the primary filter and protected by a primitive mesh. This means that, firstly, you will have to clean the mesh regularly, and secondly, the heater will still get dirty. In addition, this arrangement of the heater reduces the useful cross-sectional area of ​​the supply channel. This is the only competitor that has the ability to automate a CO2 sensor, but the control algorithms require improvement, and the location of the sensor is not the best. And this is already the second generation of devices, and the first was even worse.

Xiaomi released its ventilator this year. You can’t buy it in Russia yet, and it doesn’t have supply air heating (although in terms of the quality of supply air filtration it will definitely be no worse than Tion O2).

But that is not all. There are devices called reversible recuperators.

Vakio and Marley

The problem with these devices is that they are almost completely useless and will not replace either a compact air handling unit or a full-fledged recuperator.

Firstly, they have very big problems with productivity (30-35 m3/hour at maximum speed, and this is only enough for one person) and, therefore, noise level. Well, what did you want from an axial (not centrifugal) computer cooler? Secondly, their design does not allow for complete filtration of supply air. Thirdly, insufficient air exchange (due to performance limitations) will lead to the formation of condensation and freezing of the heat exchanger.

But the biggest problem is that a compact reversible heat exchanger can only operate in a complex of two devices synchronized with each other - when one heat exchanger works for inflow, and the other for exhaust, and every 30 seconds they change roles. That is, you need to install at least two such reversible heat exchangers in each room, which makes the whole undertaking economically unprofitable.

Why won’t a single recuperator work, which first works for 30 seconds on inflow, and then 30 seconds on exhaust? It’s enough to think where the air in the apartment will come from when a single reversible heat exchanger turns on for blowing. That's right, from the common house exhaust ventilation shaft or from the landing (with the corresponding smell). Although in fact, the fan in such a recuperator will not be able to create sufficient static pressure to “overpower” the draft in the ventilation shaft. Therefore, any reversible heat exchangers are generally not applicable in apartment buildings with central exhaust ventilation. At most, they are suitable for a small country house.

As a result, the best choice was and remains the Tion O2 breather in the Top version (MagicAir base station with Wi-Fi and CO2 sensor included). Don't forget that clean and fresh air is your health.

Regardless of whether the ventilation in the apartment is done with your own hands or with the help of specialists, it should help create a healthy microclimate in the room.

We will also analyze the nuances of arranging a hood and organizing the flow of fresh air.

Since air exchange directly affects the quality of life, scientific research was carried out to determine its optimal parameters, the results of which are reflected in regulations.

The main document regulating the rules for organizing ventilation of residential premises is SP 54.13330.2016“Residential multi-apartment buildings”, updated edition SNiP 01/31/2003.

Rules for calculating the minimum volume of air exchange

The minimum air volume for various types of premises can be calculated using the data in Table 9.1. SP 54.13330.2016.

When calculating, you cannot simply sum up the resulting numbers. For living rooms, air exchange means the flow of air from outside and its outflow into the kitchen, bathroom, etc., and for technical rooms - the influx from living rooms and its release outside the apartment.

Therefore, it is necessary to separately calculate the required volumes of inflow and exhaust in order to obtain the maximum value of these two quantities as a result.

There is one caveat here. The designer of an apartment building is required to calculate the inflow value to calculate the heat balance, and the exhaust value to calculate the parameters of the ventilation units.

Residents of apartments have the right, at their discretion, to implement ventilation with a lower capacity, which is what happens in the vast majority of cases.

An example of calculating the minimum volume of air exchange for standard apartments in accordance with the requirements of SP 54.13330.2016. It needs to be carried out to understand the required power of ventilation devices

It is possible to independently determine the volume of air exchange with good accuracy only when using forced ventilation.

We reviewed detailed ventilation calculations with formulas and real calculation examples for specific rooms in.

With natural air circulation, it is necessary to pay attention to the following indicators:

• excess moisture in the air(can be measured using a hygrometer) – is expressed in the appearance of fungus on the walls and ceiling, as well as fogging of window glass in the winter;
• lack of oxygen or excess carbon dioxide(can be measured using a gas analyzer) - is expressed in difficulty breathing for all people who are in the apartment.

If such effects can be observed throughout the apartment, this means a lack of general supply or exhaust ventilation. If they occur in separate rooms, then this indicates local air exchange problems associated with the formation of zones of air stagnation.

Modern indoor gas analyzers show carbon dioxide content, temperature and relative humidity - the main indicators of the microclimate of a living space

How to ensure air circulation?

According to clauses 9.6 and 9.7 SP 54.13330.2016 The influx of outside air must be ensured in living rooms and the kitchen, and removal - from kitchens, bathrooms and restrooms.

At the same time, it is unacceptable for air to enter other parts of the apartment from technical rooms. It must be ducted directly into the ventilation shaft.

Thus, it is quite easy to draw up a diagram of air movement depending on the layout of the apartment, when its intake from the outside will take place in rooms with windows, and the outflow will occur at the exit points of the ventilation shafts.

An example of a diagram of air movement in an apartment with a standard layout if there are two exits to ventilation shafts located in the kitchen and bathroom

The movement of air between the rooms of the apartment should also occur with the doors tightly closed.

To do this, you can do the following:

• installation of special ventilation holes, which are ordinary holes in the door, closed with special decorative elements;
• using a door frame without a threshold, which allows you to leave a 5-10 mm high gap between the floor and the closed door;
• owners of domestic cats are often forced to install holes in interior doors, which also serve as ventilation holes.

The procedure for organizing ventilation in doors made of solid wood, chipboard or MDF is quite simple. To do this, you need to use a drill or jigsaw to cut holes into which special rings will be placed on glue.

Or you can make one window and cover it with a decorative grille, which must be attached to the door with self-tapping screws.

In order to cut a ventilation hole in an interior door and cover it with a decorative grille, you only need a jigsaw and an adhesive gun

Cutting ventilation holes in a plastic or even glass door yourself is quite difficult. This requires skill and a special tool, otherwise there is a high risk of damage to the door, as well as possible serious injury.

Creating conditions for the hood to work

If air exchange is poor, it is impossible to create a positive microclimate in the room. Therefore, in any house there are special ventilation shafts for the outflow of air from the apartments to the outside.

Most of the work related to ensuring the proper functioning of exhaust ventilation can be done independently without the involvement of specialists.

Checking the functionality of the ventilation shaft

The influx of fresh air into the apartment can occur in different places, and removal - through one or two openings leading into ventilation shafts. Therefore, the strength of the flow through them is the easiest way to judge the intensity of air exchange.

To do this, you need to attach a sheet of plain paper to the ventilation grille, completely covering it.

With normal air flow, the paper will stick to the exhaust vent. Otherwise, we can state the fact that there is no normal air exchange in the apartment.

It is unsafe to check the draft into the ventilation shaft using an open flame. Accumulated dust or gas leakage may cause a fire.

To find out the main cause of poor draft, open the window or entrance door closest to the hole and again attach the sheet to the grille.

In this case, there are two options:

• if the paper “sticks” to the grille, this means insufficient air flow with the windows closed;
• if the flow remains so weak that it is unable to hold the paper, then the problem is in the ventilation shaft or in the branch that leads to it.

If a lack of air exchange occurs due to problems with the ventilation shaft, then you need to contact the management organization responsible for the apartment building.

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Any hole leading into the ventilation shaft must be installed. It protects the room from changing the direction of the air flow and the entry of air from the shaft, which often does not meet sanitary and hygienic standards.

Reversal of flow can occur for the following reasons:

• gradual decrease in the live cross-section of the mine channel as a result of clogging;
• a sharp decrease in the open cross-section of the mine channel as a result of the entry of a foreign object;
• increasing air flow from neighboring apartments.

The check valve can be installed separately, but it is easier to purchase it complete with a fan and grille.

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When choosing a valve installation location, the following points must be considered:

• ease and safety of installation of external grilles for apartments not located on the ground floor;
• correct placement of the internal valve head from the point of view of room design;
• possibility of heating incoming air from stationary heating devices.

Therefore, the most popular location for installing the valve is the space between the window and the radiator.

For more intensive air supply, valves with built-in fans are used. However, they require an electrical supply and produce some noise, especially audible at night.

Installing two or three devices that provide natural air flow is easier and cheaper than installing a wall supply valve with ventilation

In addition to the supply valve equipped with a fan, you can connect a humidifier to maintain a favorable microclimate in the living room.

However, they must be correctly integrated into the design of the room, since the entire structure will take up much more space than the head of an ordinary device.

Installation of duct air exchange systems

When installing duct ventilation systems or kitchen hoods, special boxes or flexible corrugated pipes are used.

They are also needed to move air from technical rooms to a remote entrance to the ventilation shaft. You can carry out the installation work of such an air duct on your own.

Basic rules for duct design

For apartments there is no need to use metal ventilation ducts designed to pass air flow at high speeds and to operate at sub-zero temperatures. Plastic boxes are easy to install and easily fit into the design of any room.

You can find many proposals that differ in color, cross-sectional area, shape, method of connecting sections and method of fastening to walls and ceilings.

The presence of a large number of shaped elements allows you to create a ventilation duct of any geometry. The choice between a round and rectangular cross-sectional shape is not fundamental from a technical point of view.

The size of the plastic ventilation duct for an apartment must be selected so that the air flow speed at maximum load is from 1 to 2 m/s

When designing duct geometry, it is desirable to minimize the number of turns, narrowings and transitions that increase aerodynamic resistance to flow, generate noise and accumulate grease and dust deposits.

Features of installation of plastic boxes

The plastic parts of the ventilation duct are lightweight, so they do not require any special actions during fastening.

Depending on their location, installation proceeds as follows:

1. Inside the cabinets, the elements are secured to the cabinet walls using clamps. Foam or foam inserts are introduced into places where they pass through walls and partitions to prevent rattling during system operation.
2. Above the cabinets, the elements are secured using any holders and screws.
3. The structure is fixed to the wall and ceiling using special clamps, which can be purchased for any channel size. The distance between fasteners should be no more than 1 meter.

Immediately after installing the ventilation duct, which will subsequently be hidden behind a suspended or suspended ceiling, it is necessary to check its operation at the maximum possible air flow power. Detected problems are easier to fix immediately while access to the system is not difficult.

It is quite simple to securely secure the elements of the plastic ventilation duct using special clamps. They are not expensive, so it is better not to use independent solutions

By coating the joints of the elements with silicone sealant, you can obtain an additional guarantee of the tightness of the structural joints.

For these purposes, there is no need to use glue or “liquid nails”-type compounds, since in the future it will be almost impossible to disassemble the system for maintenance or change its configuration.

If depressurization does occur, and to eliminate it there is no way to disassemble the air duct, then in this case it is necessary to wrap the problematic joint with self-adhesive tape to match the color of the shaped elements.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

All stages of installing a simple wall-mounted supply valve:

Procedure for providing ventilation through interior doors:

Combining natural and forced ventilation using a tee and check valve:

Checking the quality of air exchange in the apartment and most of the work related to ensuring normal air circulation can be done on your own. However, to install complex equipment or perform work associated with risk, it is better to invite specialists.

Are you involved in the arrangement of ventilation systems and are well versed in the topic? Perhaps you noticed an inaccuracy or error in the material reviewed? Please write to us about this in the comments.

Or are you having difficulty setting up your ventilation system and want to clarify certain points? Ask our engineer for advice - we will try to help you.