The passage of the pipe through the roof: brick and round. Installation of a chimney from a sandwich pipe through the roof: step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe through rooms, ceilings and the roof How to install a roof passage

Passage through the roof of a round pipe

The node of the passage through the roof of round pipes can be either metal or soft - made of rubber or silicone. Metal penetrations of the roof are made of galvanized iron, sometimes a protective coating is applied to them, similar in color and composition to the metal tile coating.

Often, metal tile manufacturers offer special penetrations: this is the same sheet of roofing material to which an elastic rubber cap is attached, which serves as an excellent insulator.

For other roofing materials, flexible penetrations can be used as a roof penetration. There are many of them on the market today. Different colors, compositions, at different angles of the roof, straight penetrations, with different types of fastening (for self-tapping screws, with adhesive, etc.).

Of all flexible penetrations Master Flash (Master Flash) has the best recommendations. It is quite easy to distinguish it: in addition to the applied company name, there are additional corrugated grooves on the back of the roof penetration, which increase the degree of adhesion to any roofing material. From the outside, the base along the edge has a metallized coating, with which it is easy to achieve any desired relief.

Roof penetrations for round pipes

To install a flexible penetration, cut off part of the outer cap - the diameter of the resulting hole must be less than the diameter of the pipe. The penetration is pulled onto the pipe with force. To reduce the resistance, you can smear the surface of the pipe with soapy water. After the penetration is tensioned, the lower flange is given the desired configuration. On the back side, it is smeared with sealant, then pressed against the roof and fixed with self-tapping screws. This method of sealing a round pipe is not very laborious, but reliable enough.

Silicone and rubber penetrations are used at pipe temperatures up to 100 ° C. If the temperature of the chimney is higher, you will either have to make an additional layer of insulation between the penetration and the pipe, or, more likely, use a metal skirt and a glass. How they look and how to fix them is shown in the following video. Everything is done there not quite correctly, then the principle of installation is clear.

Fighting joint leaks

In order to create the maximum possible tightness of the abutment of the roofing material to the pipe at the points of contact, using the lower strips, an internal apron is made.

Installation of a chimney passage through the roof.

To make an inner apron, you need the following tools:

• marker;
• long metal ruler;
• grinder with a disc 2 mm thick;
• pliers;
• a hammer.

In order to do this, the bar is applied to the walls of the chimney pipe, making marks on the top of the bar. The next step along the previously marked line is a strobe.

Installation of the inner apron should start from the bottom wall. The edge of the apron is wound into a strobe, after which it is installed on the remaining walls. The overlap should be 15 cm. Then the edge of the film inserted into the strobe is sealed. Having cut the lower strips, they are installed, and then fixed with self-tapping screws.

After installing the bottom apron, you can proceed to install the tie, which is a sheet of waterproofing material wound under the elements of the inner apron from below. The main function of the tie is to drain water.

After finishing work on the device of a tie and an apron that protect the joints, the roofing material is laid. Then the outer apron is mounted. To do this, use the upper junction bars.

The installation of the apron from the outside is carried out similarly to the device of the apron inside. The difference is the absence of a strobe and the upper edge is fixed directly to the chimney wall.

Important: today the building materials market offers products that are designed specifically for chimneys with a circular cross section. They are roof passages, which consist of a base (flat steel sheet) and an apron cap.

Inside the passage there is a round chimney.

The final stage of installation

The device of the unit is completed with the following steps:

1. Remove the protective film from the sandwich pipes. It is highly undesirable to release parts from polyethylene earlier - they can be damaged during transportation or installation.
2. Seal the joints properly. Ideally, the composition should withstand temperatures within 1000 degrees.

What areas need to be coated with sealant:

• seams at the junctions of the inner sandwich pipes - a plane located on the outer part from above;
• joints of external pipes - the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe outer surface;
• junctions of sandwich pipes with other components of the system - the entire area or diameter, if we are talking about round pipes.

Do not rush to immediately operate the new chimney, first check the correct operation of it:

1. Turn on the heating device (boiler, stove or fireplace) at low power.
2. Now inspect the device to see if it leaks smoke in the wrong places.
3. Make sure that there is no excessive heating of the components of the complete system, especially in the area of ​​​​the transition through the wall or roof.

What is the advantage of a sandwich chimney? It looks aesthetically appealing and provides a modern style to the fireplace, even a beginner can assemble it. And also, with proper installation, it will last a long time and will delight the owners with uninterrupted operation.

Passing a pipe through a chimney without a factory outlet

It is possible to remove the chimney without a passage device. In this case, the edges of the hole in the ceiling are also sealed with a fire-resistant heat insulator, and metal strips are stuffed on top of it. A protective plate made of non-combustible material is put on the sandwich coming from the oven, in which a hole of a suitable diameter is cut, and holes for fasteners are drilled along the edges. Traditionally, this is a sheet of metal. Next, the sandwich is passed into the hole in the ceiling, fixed there with the help of any non-combustible guides. For example, you can use drywall profiles or something similar. The main thing is to securely fix the pipe and observe the basic rule of fire safety: there must be a distance of at least 36 cm from the edge of the pipe to combustible material.

Important! When installing and fixing the chimney, keep in mind that the pipe changes its dimensions due to thermal expansion. It must be fixed so that it can move relative to the roof

Then from below (from the ceiling) the pipe is hemmed with non-combustible material. From the side of the attic or the second floor, the voids formed in the cutting are filled with a heat insulator. The requirements for it are the same: tolerance to high temperatures. Expanded clay may be the most budgetary. Actually, this is the end of the chimney pipe through the ceiling.

You can make a passage through the ceiling with your own hands

Chimney passage through a flat roof

When installing a chimney on a flat roof, it is important to remember that its height above the roof surface should be 500 mm in accordance with SNiP standards. A round pipe, a rectangular chimney box or a brick chimney can be led through a concrete floor slab

The round pipe passage assembly will be considered separately, and for other cases, two basic installation principles are used.

Features of the arrangement of the passage through the pitched roof

How to fix the chimney on the roof? On the chimney, on the inside of the roof, it is required to mount a flange that is rigid enough to take the load from the crate - the chimney outlet makes it necessary to dismantle some of the girders, and without installing the flange, the structure will remain in limbo.

The flange is usually a steel sheet with stiffeners welded to it. The thickness of the sheet should be at least 2-3 mm. A non-combustible heat insulator - basalt cardboard - should be laid on the flange. This will prevent the transfer of heat from the chimney to the crate. If the design of the chimney is not reliable enough to take on part of the load on the roof, a truss structure or additional racks are mounted around the perimeter of the hole so that the load is transferred to the attic floor.

Around the pipe, all layers of the roof must be cut to a gap corresponding to the standards specified in SNiP (depending on the type of pipe and the degree of its heating). The resulting gap must be filled with a non-combustible heat insulator - basalt or glass wool, basalt cardboard.

The principle of sealing the junction of the roofing material to the chimney depends on factors such as:

To prevent damage to the chimney through the pitched roof when snow melts, it is recommended to install snow retainers higher up the slope. With a chimney width (across the slope) of more than 800 mm, a special structure should be mounted on the slope above it to drain the water flow.

Conclusion through the roof of a pipe with a circular cross section

It is very difficult to perform waterproofing of the junction of the roof to the round pipe without the use of special roof penetrations. The construction market offers a wide selection of pipe assemblies that differ in diameter and material of manufacture.

A universal option is an aluminum flange equipped with a silicone or rubber corrugation. Several standard sizes of these elements are produced, thanks to which it is possible to choose a penetration for a chimney pipe of any popular diameter. The working surface of the flange is covered with a material similar to the material of the corrugation, and is provided with grooves for filling with sealant. The top of the corrugation cone is cut to the required diameter, after which the penetration must be pulled onto the chimney. The flange must be smeared with sealant and attached to the roof with self-tapping screws that are included in the kit. If the roofing is not made of metal, the flange is attached with dowels or long self-tapping screws directly to the crate.

For roofs with different slope slopes, penetrations are offered in which the corrugation is located at different angles to the flange. You can purchase a detachable design, which is used if it is not possible to pull the corrugation onto the pipe due to the presence of protruding parts or the high height of the mounted chimney. Such a penetration is equipped with clamps, thanks to which the corrugation is tightly pressed around the pipe.

Mounting the chimney on the roof can be done using penetrations in which a hinged segment is used instead of a corrugation. This is a universal option for roofs with any slope angle: the surfaces of the connecting elements are spherical in shape and can be fixed relative to each other at any angle.

It is not uncommon for manufacturers of roofing materials to offer prefabricated chimney penetrations with a flange preformed to match the appropriate roof covering. Such a penetration is attached to the roof lathing with the necessary overlap. To match the diameters, the apron cone is cut off. Penetrations from roofing manufacturers have several standard angles of inclination. To seal the joint, a second conical apron is mounted overlapping with the first.

Chimney box

To properly bring the chimney through the roofing pie, you should equip your own truss system around the pipe. It must be separated from the chimney at a distance specified in SNiP. The design consists of lateral rafter legs and horizontal transverse beams from below and above, which are made of a bar of the same section as the rafters.

To insulate the structure, it is necessary to use non-combustible heat-insulating materials, such as glass wool or stone wool - it is stuffed between the pipe and the wooden structural elements.

When passing the chimney through the roofing pie of the exploited roof, the vapor and waterproofing is cut crosswise, like an envelope, the edges should be tucked up and attached with nails or brackets to the rafter system.

Waterproofing the chimney on the roof requires special attention. When installing a duct for a pitched roof chimney, the vapor barrier and waterproofing membrane are fastened as follows: the edges of the films are turned up and tightly fixed with brackets to the duct; in addition, the attachment points should be additionally sealed with a sealing tape or some other adhesive material. From the outside, protective elements are mounted on top of the roofing that do not allow moisture to pass into the joints of the box with the roofing cake.

It is important to consider that the installation of the box can adversely affect the air exchange in the under-roof space. To avoid deterioration of moisture removal, you can install additional ventilation systems, for example, ventilation tiles, roof aeration grilles, etc.

If the width of the chimney exceeds 800 mm (perpendicular to the rafters, according to the outer dimension), then a slope should be performed higher up the slope.

Razuklonka is a small private roof that drains water and snow from the pipe. Its installation is quite complicated, since all layers of insulation are part of the ramp, in addition, it should be qualitatively combined with the main roof using curly elements. To avoid mounting a slope, it is worth making a smaller pipe.

Using ready-made kits

Standard modular chimneys ("sandwich") can greatly simplify the process of passing the pipe through the roof. A wide range of materials are used for the manufacture of structures, including :

The choice of a modular chimney depends on the fuel used, as they differ significantly in their technical characteristics. The advantage of such systems is the ability to install the pipe not at a right angle. This is especially true when installing a chimney in an existing building and allows you to choose almost any place for installing a fireplace, stove or automatic boiler.

A modular chimney passes directly through the roof, consisting of such parts as :

• deflector (a device that enhances draft in the chimney by using a stream of hot air);
• clamp for stretch marks (allows you to additionally fix a high pipe on the roof);
• skirt (an element that protects the exit point of the pipe through the roof);
• roof passage (element with a fixed apron, which is directly mounted in the roofing pie).

Modular chimneys have an attractive appearance.

Steel chimneys can be installed if the temperature of the exhaust gases is not more than 500 °C. Prohibited for installation on coal-fired stoves. For asbestos-cement pipes, this parameter is 300 degrees; for coal-fired ovens, such chimneys are also unsuitable.

If the chimney is made of concrete or brick, or a prefabricated passage is installed, the structure should not be rigidly attached to the roof system. Under the influence of external factors, the roof may be deformed, and these forces will be transferred to the chimney, which may lead to its destruction. When the chimney exits through the roof, all connections between the chimney and the roof are made using flexible elements.

Master flash

Such penetration can be applied to any type of roofing - slate, shingles, metal roofing, bitumen pouring or tiles.

Ideal for sealing chimneys in stoves and fireplaces. Used for straight roofs and sloped roofs.

This type of product is an excellent combination of price and quality.

Master Flash is distinguished by high professional reliability, functionality - this is achieved through the use of high-quality materials for application.

The main feature of this penetration is the use of reinforced polymer rubber, which is able to withstand heavy loads (temperatures up to 138 degrees).

Polymer rubber does not soften with heat.

How to cover the roof with ondulin installation subtleties

A lot has already been written about how to cover the roof with ondulin.

There is nothing complicated here, it is only important to follow the rules, fasten according to the instructions and have a little skill in construction

But often after the roof there are problems associated with improper coverage. Understanding such issues, it can be noted that the problem lies in the incorrect fastening of additional elements and other nuances.

You should pay no less attention to the subtleties, because small mistakes can then result in big problems.

The passage of a ventilation or chimney through ondulin

Of course, in any house there is an elementary kitchen hood in the kitchen. Also, a private house is equipped with a ventilation system, which is removed through the roof on the roof.

“Cutting” holes for such pipes is laborious. Moreover, at the point of contact of the ventilation pipe with the ondulin, a gap will appear through which moisture will enter. In the future, this can lead to flooding of the room.

Ondulin manufacturers took care of their customers. They offer customers a special ready-made ventilation pipe. It is attached to the roof with nails and leakage will not occur.

Sometimes people, trying to save money, do not resort to such additional elements. They lead an ordinary ventilation pipe through the roof and leave it in such a state that it is strictly forbidden to do so.

In this case, it is necessary to use a covering apron. But fixing it is much more difficult than a finished ventilation pipe.

When there is a fireplace or stove in the house or bath, it also becomes necessary to bring the pipe to the roof through the ondulin. To do this, according to the usual technology, they lay out a brick pipe and cover the roof with the given roofing material.

In order to avoid leakage, it is necessary to use the same covering apron. It is attached to the ondulin with special nails.

Mounting and dimensions of an ondulin ridge

The ridge is an important detail in the roofing of the roof with ondulin. It is designed to decorate the edge of the roof, as well as to protect against the ingress of excess moisture.

Skates are purchased ready-made, among other additional elements. Before mounting, it is worth finding out from which side the winds prevail. Installation begins on the opposite side of the direction of such winds.

The skates are also overlapped with a width not exceeding 1.5 cm. The skate is nailed with special nails to the upper wave of the ondulin sheet lying under it. In this case, the nail must be of such length that it is fixed into the bars of the crate.

Covering apron for ondulin

Other additional elements that are necessary to cover the roof with ondulin include a covering apron. With its help, sealing of joints is achieved.

It is used at the point of contact of the sheets with the chimney, for aesthetic design, as well as protection from moisture of the junction between the ondulin sheet and the vertical wall.

In the case of a pipe, a covering apron is attached at the bottom and nailed to each wave of the ondulin sheet. Next, with the help of a sealed tape, the joint with the wall, the side joints and the upper part of the pipe are sealed.

To do this, the tape must be laid at least 10-15 cm higher to the vertical surface. The covering apron and tape are attached with a metal bar.

In addition to sealing pipes and vertical walls, a covering apron must be used for mounting the ridge element. To do this, it is installed with an overlap of 4 cm on both slopes.

In this case, the upper edges of the apron should be at least 2 cm apart. This measure is necessary for better air outlet. Skates are mounted on top of the attached aprons.

How to seal pipes with protective aprons

In addition to rubber caps, aprons made from other materials are often used. When waterproofing pipes with a circular cross section, products made of galvanized steel are often used. In this case, a steel clamp is installed at the place where the passage is adjacent to the roof, and the gap is covered with sealants and adhesive tape with metal reinforcement.

The pipe is sealed on the roof from corrugated board using an apron, which consists of several elements:

1. The material of steam and waterproofing of the roof, remaining after the passage to the roof has been brought out, is fixed with construction tape to all sides of the apron.
2. Using a machine, a strobe (small groove) is made around the perimeter of the pipe.
3. The upper edge of the abutment bar is fixed in the groove with silicone sealant.
4. The apron consists of 4 parts - for each side of the rectangle. The lower part is tightly attached to the passage, observing a 10-centimeter overlap, using self-tapping screws for working with a profiled sheet.
5. A waterproofing element such as a tie is placed under the bottom apron, which prevents water from entering the house.
6. Similarly, the top and side aprons are fixed and, as a result, a one-piece protection structure is equipped.

The process of waterproofing pipes on the roof of a household is not as complicated as it is important. It is necessary to properly seal the joints in order to create a quality roof.

Sandwich pipe design

Everything related to heating equipment is associated with the risk of fires, especially in wooden houses. Statistics say that more than half of fires happen because homeowners did their own chimney installation incorrectly. To facilitate this task and protect the house from fire, use a sandwich pipe for the chimney. At first glance, they look like ordinary stainless steel products, but in fact they have a three-layer structure:

Sandwich pipe construction

1. Inner contour. Cylinder of round section made of high-strength stainless steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm with the addition of zinc or molybdenum. The inner pipe is made from a sheet of metal, by welding to obtain a sealed seam. Due to its high anti-corrosion properties, alloy steel is not damaged by interaction with water.
2. insulating layer. Between the inner and outer circuits there is an insulating layer that performs two important functions: it “locks” the heat inside the pipe, preventing it from heating the surrounding materials and does not allow the smoke to cool down while passing through the pipe so that soot does not settle on its walls. As thermal insulation, fibrous materials with the highest fire resistance class with a working temperature of up to 700 degrees are used, for example, basalt-based mineral wool. The insulation layer between the contours is 40-60 mm, and the density of the insulation is 12o kg per cubic meter.
3. External casing. The outer shell of a sandwich pipe made of stainless steel or another type of metal. The seam of the casing is performed using laser welding, which does not damage the galvanic layer of stainless steel, which protects it from corrosion. The cost of brass and copper pipes greatly increases the cost of laying a chimney, and the installation is justified by a spectacular appearance.

Additional elements of a double-circuit chimney

Sandwich pipes consist of additional elements: straight sections, bends, tees. The diameter of the products depends on the manufacturer, so it is necessary to buy all parts of the chimney of the same company, ideally suited to each other.

Features of this design

Sandwich is a good option for a chimney with insulation. Insulation provides you with the following advantages:

• the possibility of the functionality of the chimney pipe when in the zone of low temperature conditions;
• endows the pipe with the necessary fireproof properties (inside the building).

Standard versions of such chimneys have an external galvanized coating. Stainless steel options are also available, as well as painted in any color that suits you.

Existing versions of sandwiches made of stainless steel are pasted over with a special protective film on the outside. The main thing - do not forget to remove it before using the chimney for its intended purpose. There are also special adapters on sale that you will need when connecting the boiler and pipe. Be careful when choosing elements for a sandwich chimney.

Scheme of the device of a sandwich pipe.

Necessary tools for work are:

How to assemble a chimney from sandwich pipes

In order not to be interrupted during the installation process, it is necessary to prepare all the constituent components for subsequent assembly into a single device in advance. The advantage of the sandwich construction is that technology is used in its manufacture, which greatly facilitates the process of installing a complete unit. The edges of sandwich pipes are processed with a smaller diameter compared to the main component.

The narrowed part is brought to another pipe, the connection is secured by a clamp. Masters advise treating the seam area with a sealant that copes well with temperature loads.

Pipe exit through the roof

Before starting the installation of the chimney. prepare the tools:

The layout of the chimney relative to the roof ridge.

• drill;
• set of drills;
• Bulgarian;
• heat-resistant sealant;
• riveter;
• aluminum tape;
• clamps;
• corners for fixing the pipe.

When carrying out work on the removal of the pipe, it is necessary to solve the following issues:

1. The passage through the roof must meet all fire safety requirements, given that the pipe crosses the ceiling and roof, which may have combustible properties.
2. The interior space of the house must be protected from moisture and wind entering through the pipes.

Removing the pipe through the ridge has the following advantages:

1. Ease of work associated with the adjoining of the pipe to the roofing.
2. There are no snow pockets on the ridge, which reduces the risk of leaks.

The disadvantages of this method include:

• there is no load-bearing ridge beam in the roof frame;
• rupture of the bearing ridge beam at the point where the chimney pipe passes through the roof;
• additional installation of truss supports is required, which is very inconvenient when planning an attic.

As a result of this, the chimney passage is usually led to a slope near the ridge, where a snow bag is also not collected. The execution scheme of such a node is also quite simple.

Scheme of the arrangement of permissible gaps during the installation of the chimney.

Advice: you should not make a chimney in the valley (the place where two roof slopes intersect from the inside at an angle), because this point is very difficult in the quality execution of the area where the pipe adjoins the roof. Rainwater will penetrate here, and in winter a snow pocket will form in the valley, which will eventually lead to constant leaks.

It is very important to observe the gap between the rafters and the roof. Ideally, it should be about 25-30 cm

If the roof is made of combustible material, for example, from standard roofing material, in order to avoid fire hazard situations, the minimum gap should be 13-25 cm.

In the case of a roof made of non-combustible materials, the distance can be reduced to a few centimeters. It is only required to remove the pipe from the crate.

When the roof looks like a roofing cake. which consists of heat, steam and waterproofing, during installation work on the arrangement of the chimney assembly through the roof, some difficulties arise due to the violation of the integrity of the insulation layers, which in turn leads to a decrease in the level of protection of the insulation layers.

The most acceptable way for this case is to isolate the space near the pipe from the roof. The method consists in the execution of a special box for the chimney, which can be made from rafters and beams. A gap of 13-15 cm should be left between the walls of the box and the pipe. The space around the chimney is filled with insulating non-combustible materials, for example, stone wool is suitable.

Chimney waterproofing scheme.

Steam and waterproofing is brought to the box in the usual way: the film is cut like an envelope. Then, leading to the transverse beams and rafters, they are fixed with staples or nails.

The waterproofing layer is pressed with crate bars, and the vapor barrier layer is pressed against the frame of the attic finishing material. After that, the joints of the box and the film are sealed with specially designed compounds or tapes that improve tightness.

Chimneys always go to the roof. If the junction of the soft roof to the chimney is not processed correctly, leaks begin here, and in the worst case, installation errors can lead to fire.

How should the chimney be laid to eliminate the possibility of leaks and fire?

Variants of a chimney in a soft roof

Soft roof can be flat and pitched. The pipe itself is metal, brick, ceramic, square or round.

The passage of the chimney through the soft roof of a flat roof

The base is a concrete slab. We derive a rectangular chimney:

1. Remove all layers of the cake to concrete in a rectangular area with dimensions equal to the cross section of the pipe + a margin of 15 cm.
2. Install formwork around the perimeter.
3. Make a 15 cm high concrete rim. Wait for setting.
4. Get the roofing on the walls.
5. Install a metal strip on the connection of the roofing material with the side, strengthen with dowels through the coating.
6. Install an ebb with a dropper on the side.

If the pipe is brick, do not make a side:

1. Bring the material to the walls.

2. Put a metal apron on top.

3. They make a strobe one and a half centimeters deep in the wall (in a brick, not in a seam!), Lead the edge of the apron into it.

4. Fill with sealant.

Connection to the chimney of a soft roof on a pitched roof

In this case, you must first install the flange, which will take on the load of the crate, because. in this area it is carved. For the manufacture of the flange, you can use a three-millimeter sheet of steel, to which stiffeners should be welded.

1. Release a strip of about four centimeters around the pipe.

2. Lay a basalt wool pad along the walls.

3. For sealing round pipes, a metal round flange with a rubber/silicone corrugation is often included in the material kit. If not, can be purchased separately. The flange is put on the pipe, coated with sealant and fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate.

note

There are different modifications of round flanges. Some need to be attached to the pipe with clamps. In other cases, the element is attached to the pipe and roof and fastened with screws. Sometimes an additional apron is installed: the upper element is placed with an overlap on the lower one without fixing to each other.

The flange is selected according to the diameter of the chimney and the slope of the slope. There are adjustable models.

If the pipe is rectangular, a four-piece metal apron is used.

1. The upper bar is brought under the coating and fixed to the pipe.

2. The rest are placed on top of the coating.

3. A tie is brought under the front bar - a wide metal sheet with sides.

4. Strobes are made on brick pipes, into which the upper cut of the apron is inserted. On the rest, the apron is placed on rubber seals.

5. The seams are filled with sealant.

Our work

How to cut a roof from a soft roof under a chimney

The passage through the roof structure also has its own nuances.

note

On pitched roofs, it is recommended to install the pipe closer to the ridge. The higher it is set, the better the traction. They don’t put it directly on the skate, because. removing part of the ridge beam will weaken the structure.

The excess of the chimney over the ridge is half a meter. Do not put pipes close to valleys and skylights.

Procedure (for a round metal pipe):

1. Measure from the rafter a distance equal to the width of the chimney + half a meter, and install an additional rafter leg there.

2. Using a plumb line, project the rafter onto the attic floor. A plumb line is attached at the junction of the rafters with the ridge.

3. Measure from this point one and a half meters towards the slope. Project a new mark onto the rafter. This is where the axis of the chimney will pass.

4. Measure on the ceiling from the axis a distance equal to the radius of the chimney + 25 cm. Also project this point upward.

5. At the last mark, install a timber of the same section perpendicular to the rafter legs as that of the rafters.

6. In the same way, install another beam down the slope to get a rectangular frame - a chimney box.

7. Drill four through holes in the corners of the frame. Using these holes from the side of the roof, outline the outline of the rectangle to be cut.

8. At the designated area, the roofing pie is dismantled: the insulation and the crate are removed, the roofing is turned outward, the vapor barrier is inward and attached to the box with a stapler.

Installing a pipe on a roof is an operation that requires a special approach. In this article, we will consider questions about how the chimney should pass through the roof in order to comply with the norms of SNiP, as well as to protect the structure from moisture penetration and the possibility of fire.

A well-made chimney passage through the roof is a guarantee of a long service life of the stove and roof Source houseinform.ru

Chimney installation rules

If the house has a stove, then a chimney is also needed. Although instead of a furnace there may be a special tank that runs on gas. In any case, the house is somehow heated, and the products of combustion must be removed. There are several options for removing the pipe through the roof, related to determining the location. It is planned when the project of the house is being developed. The place is considered relative to the roof ridge - a horizontal rib, which is located where two slopes meet. The pipe can be mounted:

directly in the skate;

away from the skate.

The first and second options have their pros and cons. On the one hand, it is easier to install a chimney in a ridge. But this is for someone who deals with this particular issue. And for arranging the truss system, this is more difficult, because you have to make a gap in the horizontal beam. On the other hand, when the pipe is in the ridge, it guarantees good traction. And the possibility of leakage under it is minimized here. But still, most often the chimney is shifted relative to the ridge.

Chimney offset relative to the roof ridge Source katlavan.ru

In this case, you must comply with the following building codes:

If the chimney on the roof is installed at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from the ridge, then the pipe must be 0.5 m higher than it.

When it is installed at a distance of 1.5 m to 3 m from the ridge, it is done with it on the same level.

When the pipe is at a distance of more than 3 m from the ridge, it may be lower than it, but not more than 10 °.

The best option for the location of the pipe relative to the ridge is not far from it. If you make the chimney much lower, the risk of damage by falling snow increases.

To ensure good traction, it is necessary to adhere to certain standards for the placement of the chimney relative to the roof ridge Source rekvartira.ru

There is a place where it is generally not recommended to install a pipe - a valley. This is the inner corner that two slopes of a complex roof form when connected. There is always an increased load on it, since precipitation flows there and snow lingers. With such an installation, the possibility of a violation of waterproofing is very high. This means that there will be leaks.

Protecting the roof from heat coming from the pipe

When organizing the passage of a pipe through the roof, it is important to isolate the roof from it. After all, the pipe is very hot, which increases the degree of fire hazard. The roof is protected with a separate box, the beams and rafters of which are located taking into account the requirements of SNiP. The norm for the minimum distance from the chimney to the supporting beams and rafters is from 130 to 250 mm. The inside of the box is filled with some material that does not burn. For example, it can be basalt or stone wool.

The chimney must never touch the roofing directly. Source barmanlive.ru

Further organization of the output of the pipe depends on what shape it is and what it is made of. The shape of the chimney can be made either as an ordinary square or round, or in the form of a rectangle or oval. And the pipes are brick, metal, asbestos-cement or ceramic. The material from which the roof is made is also taken into account. It can be slate, metal tile, corrugated board, ondulin, roofing felt or shingles. Each case has its own characteristics.

Video description

The consequences of improper installation can be seen in the video:

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installing stoves and fireplaces. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Round pipe installation

Often in construction, a round section of the chimney is used. To hold a round pipe through the roof and fix it hermetically on it, special flexible adapters are used. They are made of heat-resistant polymer with elastic properties. In appearance, such an adapter looks like a funnel, at the base of which there may be a circle or a square. The base is called an apron, it is made in the form of wide fields. Since the material is elastic, it easily takes on a variety of configurations. Therefore, it has a wide range of applications. Such adapters can be used on roofs with any coating and slope angle.

The exit of the round pipe through the onduline roof Source nashaotdelka.ru

The main thing is to choose an adapter that will fit the pipe in diameter. Although there are universal options for such products. They are made in the form of a stepped pyramid. To adjust their size along the pipe, the excess is simply cut off with scissors. Elastic adapters are attached to the roof with bolts or metal studs. They are installed in the holes on the flange, which presses the adapter to the roof. The space between the flange and the roof surface is lubricated with a sealant that can withstand temperature extremes.

Universal adapter for passing a round pipe through the roof Source pinterest.it

Features of the sandwich chimney

A variation of round pipes is a sandwich chimney. It consists of two pipes of different diameters, between which there is a heat-resistant thermal insulation material. They are made from stainless steel. A sandwich chimney is in great demand, as it provides stable traction, does not heat up, is easy to install and looks beautiful on the outside.

The passage through the roof of a sandwich chimney can also be made using an elastic adapter. However, it may not be in harmony with its mirror surface. In this case, a metal adapter is used, the material of which is also stainless steel. It is not flexible, so the diameter of the pipe and the angle of the roof slope must be taken into account.

Video description

The passage of the sandwich chimney through the roof is shown in the video:

A feature of the organization of the passage of a sandwich chimney is the installation of PPU - a ceiling-through unit. This device protects all wooden elements through which the chimney passes from high temperatures. It is a metal structure with a certain diameter through which a pipe must be passed. The material of its manufacture is galvanized steel or minerite. The inner surface of the node is laid out with thermal insulation.

Ceiling-through unit for a round pipe Source plamia.by

On our site you can familiarize yourself with the most. In the filters, you can set the desired direction, the presence of gas, water, electricity and other communications.

Passage through metal roofing

The metal tile represents sheets from steel, copper or aluminum which are covered with a polymeric layer. In appearance, they resemble natural tiles, which are folded in even rows. This roofing material is very popular. If a round pipe is passed through the metal tile, flexible adapters are used, which we have already talked about. With the option of a square or quadrangular brick pipe, a different method is used. It is as follows:

A connector is being made. It consists of two aprons - internal (main) and external (decorative). The material of manufacture is a thin aluminum sheet or tin.

Before the metal tile is laid, an internal apron is installed on the crate. These are 4 strips located on 4 sides of the pipe. They simultaneously go under the metal tile (no less than 250 mm) and on the pipe (no less than 150 mm).

The elements of the apron are installed in a strobe - a groove that is cut along the perimeter of the pipe to a depth of 10 to 15 mm. The gate is cleaned and filled with fire-resistant sealant.

To install the apron, a special strobe must be made in the pipe Source experttrub.ru

The apron is attached to the pipe with heat-resistant dowels. The joints between the four planks are soldered. On the slats that are on the sides, bumpers are made, the purpose of which is to divert water down.

The lower part of the apron is mounted on the so-called tie - a sheet of metal with sides. This ensures that water is drained from the chimney to the bottom of the roof. The width of the tie must be greater than that of the pipe by at least 0.5 m on both sides. Its length depends on the distance from the pipe to the edge of the roof.

After installing the tie and the inner apron, the metal tile is laid.

From above, an external apron is mounted. It is usually a corrugated sheet of lead or aluminum. In its upper part there is a decorative strip. It is attached to the pipe with self-tapping screws. The attachment point is slightly higher than the parts of the inner apron. Before fixing the decorative strips, the attachment points are coated with sealant. To attach the corrugated sheet, its back side is provided with a self-adhesive coating.

Finished chimney through a metal tile Source tproekt.com

Installing a chimney through corrugated board

Decking is a sheet of metal produced by cold rolling and then profiled. It is mainly made of steel, but can be copper and aluminum. The sheet has ribs of oval, square, trapezoid or polygonal shape. A special coating is made on top, which gives it anti-corrosion properties. The professional flooring is often used as roofing material.

To lead the chimney through the roof, in the case of a square or rectangular pipe, a device in the form of two aprons and a tie is used. The method is the same as for a metal roof. The installation of round pipes in corrugated board is not recommended, because it is difficult to cut the correct circular section in it. But if a round chimney is nevertheless made, the pipe is insulated with a universal elastic adapter.

Accessories for holding round pipes Source metalsteel.com.pl

Passage through ondulin

Ondulin looks like ordinary slate, but its material is completely different. This is compressed cellulose, which is treated with bitumen impregnation. It comes in a variety of colors, is resistant to water, but burns quite well. Therefore, when a passage through the roof is organized, maximum attention is paid to filling with fire-resistant materials. The hole for the pipe in the ondulin is made large. To isolate the junction of the roof and the chimney, an apron is used, which is wound under the roof. In this case, an elastic self-adhesive tape "Onduflash" is used, made of bitumen with an aluminum insert.

Brick pipe through ondulin Source seaside-home.ru

Installation of a chimney in a soft roof

Soft roofing is a combustible material, so it is important here that there is a gap of 13 to 25 mm between the pipe and the coating. The passage of the chimney through the roof is organized depending on what shape it is - flat or pitched. The material from which the pipe is made also plays a role. If the roof is flat, which is a concrete slab, and the pipe is not made of brick, the passage is made as follows:

Around the pipe at a distance of about 15 cm along the perimeter, everything is removed, up to the concrete.

Formwork is installed.

Concrete is poured so that a side is obtained, the height of which is 15 cm.

The roofing is laid on the walls.

Where the roofing material is connected to the rim, a metal strip is installed. Fastening is done with dowels.

A tide is installed on the side.

If the pipe is brick, the concrete side is not made. In this case, the roofing material is put on it and a metal apron is installed on top. A strobe is made in the wall of the pipe (depth 1.5 cm), where the edge of the apron is wound.

When running a pipe through a soft roof, many nuances must be taken into account. Source heatspec.com

The junction is filled with sealant. In the case of a pitched roof, waterproofing is carried out as on other coatings, that is, using aprons (for square and rectangular pipes), as well as flexible or metal adapters (for round ones).

Conducting a chimney in the finished roof

If the chimney is removed not at the stage of building a house, but in an already finished roof, the following is performed:

There is a place for withdrawal, taking into account the requirements of SNiP. This should be the space between the cross beam and the rafters.

A box is made of beams, the cross section of which is equal to the cross section of the rafters. The box is made in such a way that the width of its sides is 0.5 m greater than the diameter of the pipe.

A hole is cut in the roof, equal to the perimeter of the box. To comply with it, through holes are drilled from the inside in the corners of the box.

The roofing material is bent outward, a pipe is inserted into the hole and fixed.

The box is sealed with fire-resistant material for thermal insulation.

The junction of the pipe and the roof is sealed. The flange (adapter) is being installed.

The pipe must be output only through an adapter. Source rinnipool.ru

Video description

Visually about the pipe through the finished roof, see the following video:

Conclusion

In order for the chimney to be correctly led through the roof, you need to know all the subtleties of this work. Thanks to this, the pipe will be installed in the right place, in compliance with the requirements of all rules and regulations for construction. Also, the house will be reliably protected from leaks and the possibility of fire.

Read in the article

What materials can be used for fire protection when installing PPU

Both brick, and ceramic, and metal parts of interfloor cutting units are heated to temperatures that cause a risk of wood fire. For reliable isolation of combustible elements of the ceiling pie, it is necessary to make a gasket from protective materials.

Material	Description
	Slab fireproof material based on cement with the addition of limestone, mica and cellulose. Maintains constant heating up to 150 °C. When exposed to higher temperatures, the mineralite organic filler burns out and it becomes brittle.
	This general name refers to a fibrous insulation, consisting of molten threads of various inorganic nature. It can be both minerals (basalt, dolomite, etc.), and blast-furnace production waste, slag. Slag wool does not lose its properties up to temperatures of 300 ° C; in a hotter environment, sintering of fibers occurs - binders and water-repellent additives are not as resistant to fire as the mineral component. As a result, the thermal conductivity increases sharply. As a fire-resistant material, a rigid mineral plate of the PZh-175 brand is positioned. It is able to maintain insulating properties up to 1000°C.
	Available in thicknesses from 2 to 10 mm. This is a material that perfectly protects against fire, it not only does not burn, but also does not smolder. Harmfulness can be considered a restriction on its use - asbestos fumes are undesirable in a bath. All asbestos gaskets on the steam room side must be covered with metal.
	Highly efficient and absolutely environmentally friendly heat insulator, which belongs to the group of non-combustible materials. Its thickness is 5 mm, the coefficient of thermal conductivity increases slightly with increasing temperature, it works reliably at temperatures up to 900°C.

These are materials that can protect wooden parts from charring and fire at high temperatures in a high heat zone. But the primary lining of the ends of the ceiling, if the necessary indents are observed, can be carried out not only by them. For these purposes, it is allowed to use materials with a flammability class G1 (low combustible).

Material	Description
	It has the designation GKLO, gray sheets with red markings. It differs from the usual one by the presence of internal reinforcement with a tighter adhesion of the layers. This prevents the penetration of oxygen into the thickness of the material, combustion is not supported, and even in an open fire, the material does not collapse within 20 minutes.
	Refractory properties of the NG degree are possessed only by a product with a marking belonging to the Premium class. A sheet of the Standard class, which is not marked in any way, cannot be used to protect the tree.

The choice of thermal insulator can play a decisive role. It should be remembered that ordinary mineral wool, which is sometimes recommended to be used to stuff the passage assembly, sinters when heated and quickly loses its fire-retardant properties.

High temperature leads to a change in its structure - remaining unchanged in appearance, it can heat up significantly and no longer cope with thermal insulation. To ensure reliable thermal insulation of the chimney, it is necessary to use basalt wool, designed for operation at temperatures of 800-1000 ° C.

It is also safe to lay minerite, asbestos or basalt cardboard. There is also a time-tested budget option for thermal protection - sand was used for it (they were covered with a passage box) and clay. For example, sufficient thermal insulation of the part of the ceiling to which the box is attached is achieved by applying an even layer of clay about 2 cm thick to a metal sheet with flanging.

Roof penetration options

Today, manufacturers produce passage nodes of various types:

• equipped with a valve;
• without valves;
• equipped with a heater;
• without insulation;
• equipped with technology that controls the opening and closing of valves.

Units that have manual control in their design are usually used where there is no need to regularly use multiple ventilation modes.

The manual assembly includes:

• tailor's cloth;
• counterweight;
• cable;
• management sector.

A special mechanism helps to control the valve, which regulates the position of the valve through two main commands - “open” and “closed”. To create penetrations for the roof, manufacturers use a black sheet of metal, the thickness of which does not exceed 2 millimeters, as well as a stainless steel sheet, having a thickness of 0.5 to 0.8 millimeters.

The production of the passage unit can also be carried out on the basis of galvanized steel along with a heater, which is most often represented by a layer of mineral wool 50 millimeters thick. This option involves a device in the system of umbrellas or deflectors treated with zinc. When mounted on a fan assembly, the internals may be perforated steel and fitted with electrically conductive plastic tubes. With this method of installation, the passage assembly will also perform a soundproof function.

Safety

When building a chimney in a bath, first of all, you need to consider safety issues. Indeed, in the event that something is done incorrectly, wooden structures can flare up very easily. The problem must be approached carefully, then the bath will last a really long time, and there will be no risk to people's lives.

All the necessary requirements that chimneys must meet are established by the relevant sanitary rules and regulations. They prescribe the distance that must be maintained between the pipe and the combustible parts of the roof slabs. This value depends on the parameters of the pipe. If you are going to make a chimney in a bath, you should familiarize yourself with SNiP 41-01-2003, which approves the rules for ventilation, heating and air conditioning

At the same time, pay special attention to paragraph 6.6.22, which contains all the necessary information.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Download file

To make the chimney completely safe, you need to use the appropriate materials for thermal insulation:

• mineral wool;
• basalt cardboard;
• minerite

Non-flammable mineral wool with a long service life

Fire-resistant drywall and glass-magnesium sheet are also suitable for this purpose.

Fireproof drywall can withstand direct fire for about an hour

Glass-magnesium (glass-magnesite) sheet (SML), moisture-resistant, fire-resistant, frost-resistant, environmentally friendly

You need to pay attention to some other points

So, it is important to choose the right materials from which the chimney itself will be made - they must be resistant to high temperatures. For example, if you decide to use a metal pipe to build a chimney, it must be made of non-galvanized material.

The fact is that when heated to high temperatures, zinc begins to evaporate, and its evaporation is extremely harmful to health.

Types of UE

Types of structures

In construction, the following types of wiring elements are most often used:

• devices with a manually operated valve;
• nodes with a valve controlled automatically;
• passage units without valve.

Units equipped with manual valves are distinguished by such remarkable properties as ease of operation and efficiency. Unlike them, a special control mechanism is built into the mechanical valve, which allows you to open and close it automatically.

Valveless units have constant communication with the outside and are most often used in duct-type ducts that require a continuous supply of fresh air.

We also note that the dimensions of the UE for the organization of ventilation fit into a range of values ​​that differ by literally a few millimeters, which makes it possible to use many of their varieties in practice.

Rectangular or square tube

The brick chimney of a classic stove usually has a rectangular or square section, as this is the easiest shape to mount. The outer casing of the ceramic stove chimney looks similar.

In the standard version, the chimney duct is located strictly vertically, but on the attic floor, a horizontal section of a small length can be arranged to adjust the chimney outlet to the roof.

A hole is cut out in the roofing pie and a wooden structure, which was mentioned above, is mounted. After the laying of the pipeline passing through the roof is completed, it is necessary to ensure reliable protection of the passage unit from atmospheric precipitation. From the inside, from the side of the attic, a steel sheet is attached to design the penetration site (the hole in it is cut to fit the pipe, the sheet is put on the chimney in advance). The protective and decorative plate is attached to the edges of the support box with self-tapping screws, the joint along the perimeter of the pipe is filled with a fire-resistant sealant. The inside of the box is lined with asbestos sheets or the gap between it and the pipe is filled with basalt wool.

Rectangular pipe

From the outside, the edges of the waterproofing are brought onto the brick pipe, in which a cross-shaped incision was previously made. Each of the resulting triangles is cut in such a way that the overlap on the chimney wall is 10–12 cm. The waterproofing is glued to the brick using a special material - an elastic metallized tape with an adhesive layer.

Then the inner apron is mounted. The structure consists of four bars made of galvanized steel. The upper curved edge of each plank is inserted into a brick-made groove, and not into a masonry joint. At the corners, the planks are joined with a 15 mm overlap. All connections are treated with a heat-resistant sealant. On the side rails, bumpers should be provided that will direct the flow of water down. A metal sheet with sides is wound under the lower bar - a tie, which provides water drainage to the lower edge of the roof or to the nearest valley.

To decorate the removed chimney through the roof, an external apron made of galvanized sheet metal is installed. The material can be painted in the color of the roof. The method of fastening is the same as that of the internal structure, but you can do without a streak by treating the joint with a heat-resistant sealant for outdoor use. The edges of the apron, laid on top of the roofing, are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws.

Norms and requirements

High-quality installation of the chimney passage through the roof is so important for the safety of the building and residents that the state has officially fixed the rules and regulations for its arrangement. A document that takes into account sanitary and hygienic, fire hazardous, corrosive and other loads on the structure and materials is called SNiP 41-03-2003 "Thermal insulation of equipment and pipelines".

Piping through the roof is planned at the construction stage. If the furnace is reconstructed, changed or repaired during operation, then the chimney is usually left in the old place. The fundamental condition for a high-quality chimney is the location of the pipe relative to the roof ridge.

To ensure optimal traction, the best place to bring the pipe to the roof is its highest point - the ridge. This allows you to lead the main part of the pipe through the attic, which protects it from moisture and cold. The difficulty lies in the fact that it is necessary to violate the integrity of the horizontal beam by installing additional supports on both sides of the chimney. More often, the pipe is brought out at a short distance, which makes it possible to limit the street part of the pipe to a minimum of fifty centimeters.

There is the following dependence of the height of the chimney on its distance from the ridge:

• the distance to the ridge does not exceed 1.5 m - the pipe rises 50 cm above it;
• distance from 1.5 to 3 m - it is enough to bring the chimney flush with the ridge;
• when the chimney outlet is more than 3 m away from the ridge, the height of the pipe may be lower than the top point of the roof (the difference should be an angle of 10 degrees).

The optimal height of the pipe is from 0.5 m to 1.5 m. The outlet is located between the rafters, so as not to violate their integrity and leave a distance of 15-25 cm from them.

Note! The worst location of the pipe outlet to the roof is in a recess between two slopes in a complex building (in a valley). . If the direct vertical exit of the pipe falls on a similar merger of two roofs, then the roof penetration should be shifted half a meter to the side, adding a horizontal section to the chimney (up to 1 m)

Snow and ice accumulate in the recess in winter, which creates an additional risk for leaks.

If the direct vertical exit of the pipe falls on a similar merger of two roofs, then the roof penetration should be shifted half a meter to the side, adding a horizontal section (up to 1 m) to the chimney. Snow and ice accumulate in the recess in winter, which creates an additional risk for leaks.

An unfortunate location for the roof penetration for the chimney is the lower part of the roof. Here, the pipe can be damaged when masses of snow and ice come off. In addition, a large section of the pipe has to be taken outside to ensure normal traction, which contributes to its freezing and the formation of condensate on the inner walls.

Preparing a place for ceiling cutting

The central point at which the sandwich pipe will be carried out is found using a plumb line. The place that was chosen for the passage of the pipe is marked, and then a hole is made. If it is made by hand, it is recommended to decorate it from the side of the steam room to preserve aesthetics. To do this, you can use a sheet of stainless steel or galvanized. A sheet should be made in size that exceeds the size of the hole for the chimney.

The hole for the chimney should be slightly wider than the pipe that will run through it

When preparing a place, it is worth paying attention to several important points:

• for vertical installation of a sandwich structure, it is worth remembering that the marking of the holes is carried out first at the top point, and then at the bottom points. That is, first of all, the marking must be carried out on the roof. When marking, be sure to use a plumb line to determine the center;
• when using production models of nodes, it is recommended to carefully study the instructions, which usually indicate tips and preferences for installing a particular model of ceiling cutting;
• do-it-yourself ceiling passage units for the chimney are made using stainless sheets. The hole in the sheet is made 1–2 mm larger than the sandwich pipe.

Useful information! The ideal option is when the location of the heating equipment and the chimney structure is calculated at the very beginning when creating a construction project. In this case, it is possible to pre-calculate the installation of beams and provide the necessary distance between them to install a sandwich chimney.

If the installation of the chimney will be carried out in an already finished building, then the necessary moment is to make changes to the design of the ceiling above the stove. Part of the beam (closest to the chimney) is cut out and reinforced with special jumpers.

What thermal insulator to use

After the device is fixed on the ceiling, they rise to the attic or second floor, and fill the gap between the outer wall of the pipe and the beams with a heat insulator.

Basalt wool can be used as thermal insulation. But be sure to check that the operating temperature range must be greater than 600°C.

You can use mineral wool or clay for thermal insulation of the pipe.

Some consider this option not the best. Firstly, during the production, resins are used as a binder, which release formaldehyde when heated. Secondly, condensate runs through the pipe at times. And mineral wool (and basalt too) when wet, lose their heat-shielding properties. And when dried, they restore them only partially. So the option is really not the best.

The penetration is also covered with expanded clay of medium and fine fractions. It is a natural material with a relatively low weight. Even if it gets wet, then it dries up and restores its properties. When wet, the thermal conductivity slightly increases, and it is worse for expanded clay than for mineral wool.

In the past, sand was often used. The option is not bad in all respects, except for one detail: it gradually wakes up through the cracks. Replenishing the sandbox is not difficult, but the constant sand on the stove is annoying.

If we talk about natural heat insulators, then clay can be used. It is diluted to a pasty state and cover the entire gap. Sometimes expanded clay is used as a filler.

One and heat insulators - expanded clay

Here is a review on the use of clay in the passage of a bath pipe:

“Clay in cutting rules! He took apart the chimney in his bathhouse. Or rather, I took apart what was left: there was a lot of snow, and when I got off, he demolished the entire top for me. Once the top is changed, then you need to look at the bottom: the pipe has already been standing for 7 years. So. Inside the burning - zero, there is no burnout of the pipe either. Condition - as soon as installed. My penetration is upholstered around the perimeter with basalt wool, and then everything is smeared with clay. Definitely the best option."

Not everyone advises using heaters in the passage node. There is an opinion that it is better to leave the gap unfilled: in this way it will be possible to avoid overheating and burning of this section of the pipe - it will be better to cool due to air blowing. It may be so, but the radiation from the heated pipe will dry out the nearby wood, and in this case, the spontaneous ignition temperature is significantly reduced - up to + 50 ° C.

As you can see, the pipe burned out

There are several ways to avoid overheating. The first, and most rational, is to use the heat that escapes into the pipe and heats it up to extreme temperatures for its own needs. Here is option three:

One way to avoid overheating is to lay stones on the pipe

1. Make a water jacket on a metal chimney, and use hot water for showering or heating. The system is not so simple, it also requires an external tank, as well as piping, cold water supply, etc. But temperatures above the water jacket will not be so high, the pipe will not burn through.
2. Also heat water, but easier: put a samovar-type tank. Also hot water is provided, the chimney is not overheated and protected. But here there are some nuances: do not allow boiling, drain the heated one in time, add the cold one. And it’s not very convenient to do this, since the tank is located a little high: above the stove on the pipe.
3. Adjust the mesh for stones. The water will have to be heated in a different way, but the plus here is the following: after the end of the procedure, the stones dry the bath. Here, too, difficulties can arise: the weight of the stones is considerable, it is hardly possible to do without support, except to use the factory version (on the right in the figure). In a homemade version, you will need a design for the redistribution of mass.

When using either of these methods, pipe temperatures in the ceiling passage are significantly reduced. The risk of burnout is very low. That's not all. There is a way - just to cool the air. To do this, another one, of a larger diameter, is put on a heat-insulated pipe. A grate is made from below and from above through which air enters / exits. For a steam room, this is not an option - it will draw out all the steam, but for a washing room, you can use it. The method is especially good in the attic and when going through the roof.

Purpose of passage nodes

The device for roof penetration for ventilation is made in accordance with GOST 15150.

The main purpose is the removal of polluted air. The device for roof penetration for ventilation is made in accordance with GOST 15150. It regulates the distance from the node to the edge of the slab and the size of the holes in the floor slabs. In addition to ventilation, the passage units can be used for chimneys in those houses where there are fireplaces or stove heating. In some cases, this is called a roof penetration.

Depending on the design of the roof and what type of ventilation is available, the duct passage nodes can be:

• square;
• oval;
• round;
• rectangular and so on.

Their designs look like holes in the ceilings. Metal pipes are inserted into them, installed directly on the roof or on reinforced concrete cups. The metal used must be at least 1 mm thick. The industry produces ventilation units of various sizes, both in length and in thickness. Ventilation systems to which pipes are attached can be both natural and forced. Before deciding on the choice of type, it is necessary to take into account such parameters as:

• humidity;
• the level of gas contamination;
• minimum and maximum air temperature in the house;
• dust level, etc.

Knot of passage with the warmed valve.

The installation of ventilation passage nodes when using reinforced concrete installations is done by attaching them to anchor bolts. The latter are mounted in glasses during their construction. The installation is calculated according to several parameters:

• roof slope angle;
• distance from the penetration to the roof ridge;
• overlap thickness;
• material used in the construction of the roof;
• roof space dimensions.

If the ceiling is reinforced concrete, then in the place where the penetration will be, special slabs are used, in which there are already ready-made holes. In the event that the diameter of the hole does not correspond to the integrity of the ribbed or hollow slab, sections of monolithic concrete are made at the site of the penetration device.

The penetration on the roof with a metal light frame will be the same, but the glasses must be metal. If the building has a large area and has a civil, industrial and residential purpose, then the location of the nodes is calculated at the design stage.

About ventilation ducts

There are several types of ventilation systems:

• without valves;
• with valves;
• with thermal insulation;
• without thermal insulation;
• with a controller that monitors the position of the valves.

Systems with a manual type of adjustment are used in cases where the system does not need constant monitoring of operating modes. This ventilation system control method consists of:

An electric single-turn mechanism controls the operation of the valve - closes and opens it. The valve itself is made of stainless steel with a thickness of 0.8 mm.

The nodes through the soft roof are mounted on a base of galvanized steel, which is installed together with a layer of thermal insulation. Warm material should be no thinner than 5 cm, mineral wool is best suited for this. Later it will be possible to place special deflectors in the heat insulator - an aerodynamic device that is attached to the top of the ventilation or chimney pipe. Designed to disperse the flow of outgoing recycled air. At the end of the installation of the ventilation blades, plastic tubes made of plastic are carried inside, through which the electrical wiring passes.

A properly equipped unit will function for a long time and even muffle extraneous noise from the outside.

Read also on the topic:

Passage through the roof of a brick chimney

The passage of the chimney through the roof must simultaneously solve two difficult tasks: to ensure fire safety and tightness. According to fire safety rules, in places where the chimney comes into contact with combustible materials, the temperature of the chimney walls should not exceed 50 ° C. For brick chimneys, this is solved by increasing the wall thickness. For this, the stove-makers lay out a special penetration. There is no single solution here, since a lot depends on the angle of the roof. Therefore, this option is not very popular today - it is hard to find a person who can competently and safely make such penetration through the roof.

When a brick pipe passes through the roof, it is surrounded on all sides by a box of additional rafters and transverse beams

How is the issue then resolved? They simply make a square or rectangular pipe, which is brought out between the rafter legs, transverse beams are installed above and below the pipe. The distance between the pipe and wooden structural elements is 13-25 cm. If the distance between the rafters is greater, additional ones are installed. Thus, the damage that we will definitely cause to the hydro- and vapor barrier of the roof is minimized: in order to remove the pipe, it will be necessary to violate the integrity of the films and membranes. When installing the chimney, it turns out to be in a separate box. Films and membranes inside this box are carefully cut. The geometry of the cut is similar to the geometry of the pipe or box, but smaller than the dimensions of the box of rafters. In the corners, the films are cut at an angle (envelope), the edges of the films are folded and fixed with staples or clamping strips to the elements of the truss system. The edges and entry points of fasteners are sealed with adhesive tapes or sealants. This operation should be carried out carefully - the durability and reliability of the roof depends on it.

There is one more option. It is possible if the temperature of the pipe in the area of ​​the roof is not higher than 50°C. In this case, the edges of the films can be glued to the pipe with sealants or the same adhesive tapes (trying to seal everything as best as possible). Now there is free space between the rafters and the brick pipe. It is laid with a heat-resistant heat insulator.

Drainage of water from joints

The most difficult thing is to seal the junction of a brick pipe and a roof if a hard roofing material is used.

When removing the chimney through the roof, you need to solve the problem of waterproofing. To do this, use a system of two aprons: lower and decorative

First, a lower apron is installed around the pipe. It is usually made of tin and consists of four elements: two side, upper and lower parts. How to do it, see the next video. Everything is told in detail.

Under the lower apron, the so-called “tie” must be laid. This is a section of roofing material, a sheet of tin or galvanized metal, which will divert water to the drain (the tie should be this long - go into the drain a little), if the chimney is low or into the valley if it is closer. The following video demonstrates once again the technique of installing the inner apron for a brick pipe, and also shows how the tie and outer decorative apron are installed.

In general, how many materials, so many ways to mount the pass-through node. Another video demonstrating another brick pipe waterproofing technique. Here they use modern materials that are produced by the manufacturers of Ondulin.

It is much easier to waterproof the joint between the chimney pipe and the roof if soft tiles or other soft flexible roofing material is used. On a plastered pipe, coated with impregnation for better adhesion, this material is simply bent and trimmed. It is possible to apply a layer of sealant along the curved roofing material and fix everything with a clamping bar. The place where the roofing material is connected, the pipe and the plank are also treated with a sealant. This video demonstrates the technique for sealing a chimney using soft tiles.

The design of the junctions of the roofing to the pipe

When a reliable basis for arranging the adjoining of the roofing material to the chimney is ready, you can proceed to the installation of the coating sealing elements.

The design of the system for adjoining the coating to the pipe may be different, depending on the selected roofing material. The functions that are assigned to the elements included in the junction design are sealing and waterproofing the joints of the roof covering and ventilation or chimney pipes, as well as the removal and redirection of water flows flowing from the roof ridge to the pipe from above.

The scheme for arranging such an junction should ideally be determined even when drafting the truss system and the roofing "pie". The fact is that some options involve the installation of individual structural parts before laying the roofing.

In addition to the type of roof chosen to cover the roof, the location of the chimney, its shape, and the material from which it is made should also be taken into account when drafting the project.

Professional builders usually recommend that only ready-made structures, which are produced by roofing manufacturers, be used for arranging junctions. However, many craftsmen prefer to make these parts on their own.

One of the options for a home-made design of the junction of the roof to a rectangular brick pipe. It is easy to make such a “kit” yourself from galvanized sheet

It should be noted that the chimney pipe passing through the roof directly on the ridge line of the roof is the easiest to seal. With this arrangement, water during rain, as well as snow drifts in winter, are not able to accumulate above the back wall of the pipe, which minimizes the risk of roof leakage in this, perhaps, the most vulnerable junction.

It will not be difficult to equip a reliable connection of the roofing material to the chimney, which is located in close proximity to the ridge line, that is, almost immediately behind the ridge element. A very small space is also obtained above the pipe, which does not allow the accumulation of snow and water.

An additional fracture of the roof above the pipe - a groove, will not allow rain or melt water to accumulate in this space - it will redirect its flows to the sides

But to perform high-quality sealing of the chimney located in the middle or lower part of the roof slope is much more difficult. In this case, waterproofing must be especially reliable. Therefore, quite often, and especially, for example, when the roof is covered with a soft bituminous roof, it is necessary to equip an additional pitched structure - as shown in the illustration above. Such a special break in the roof will dilute water flows, directing them along the side walls of the pipe. Such protective extensions to the pipe are usually called grooves.

Perhaps the most unfortunate location of the pipe is on the valley line. It is advisable, even at the stage of designing chimney and ventilation ducts and the roof structure, to prevent a detailed passage of the pipe through the roof

And, of course, the most difficult thing is to qualitatively equip the junction around the chimney, which falls on the middle or lower part of the valley. The pipe in this case will be in the path of pronouncedly directed flows of water, which, during rain or snowmelt, will flow into the chute of the junction of the slopes

In this case, it is extremely important to reliably seal not only the back side of the pipe, but also its side lines. Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to try very hard to avoid such a location of the pipe.

Now, in order to answer the most popular questions that arise in the process of arranging this roof assembly, it is necessary to consider several options for sealing pipe passages through the roof.

Hard roof work

To equip the node for the passage of the ventilation duct through the roof covered with hard roofing materials (tiles, ondulin, corrugated board, etc.), a square sandbox-type structure filled with heat-insulating material is used. A small flanging should be made on it in order to protect the thermal insulation from contact with moisture that has fallen directly on the pipe.

Around the metal rectangular sleeve, it is necessary to install four parts of the apron, which will eventually cover the line where the pipe joins the roof from all sides. First, the lower part is installed, then the side parts are mounted, after which the apron element can be placed on top. The horizontal part of the apron part, located above the rest, should be brought under the roofing material. The rest, i.e. side and bottom elements, mounted on top of the roof.

Before starting the installation of an industrial ventilation transition unit through the roof, it is recommended to study the design of this element and take into account the manufacturer's recommendations

A tie is a long roof gutter, which must be provided for by the roof structure. Quite often, when installing a ventilation passage assembly, it is possible to do without such an element. To clarify this point, it is recommended to consult an experienced roofer.

The apron can be purchased ready-made, but it is easy to make such a design yourself. For this, galvanized roofing sheet 0.5 mm thick is used. It is undesirable to use a thicker roofing material, as it will be more difficult to bend to give the desired shape.

The difference in air temperatures inside and outside the ventilation can lead to condensation inside the structure, so it is recommended to insulate part of the ventilation duct

But thin tin for these purposes should not be taken, since it does not have sufficient reliability. The size of the apron must match the size of the wave of the material that is used for the roof. To mount the transition node under the metal tile, the vertical part of the apron is made as long as two roofing waves, and the horizontal part is made as long as three times the wavelength.

These dimensions are designed to create a sufficiently large entry of the apron onto the horizontal plane of the pipe and the inclined plane of the coating in order to prevent even accidental splashes from getting under the roofing material. Aprons are also mounted with an overlap of the element installed on top of the part located below. The overlap of elements equal to the width of one of them is considered optimal, but such a position is not always achievable.

So, the overlap of the top and side elements of the apron will be hidden under the roofing material, it is difficult to install the parts in the correct position here. But with the imposition of the lower and side parts of the apron, there is no such problem, it is recommended to accurately maintain the required dimensions.

If necessary, the dimensions of the parts of the apron after installation can be adjusted using metal scissors. Flanging should be performed only for the top and side elements. For the lower one, such an adjustment is not necessary, since moisture from it descends onto the roof slope and, possibly, onto the tie.

If the transition node for the ventilation duct is installed correctly, then the under-roof space will be reliably protected from precipitation and moisture

This element can be installed on top of the roof to optimize moisture removal. In such a situation, a slight bend should be made on the bottom of the apron towards the tie. In addition, you will need a lower flanging. If the installation of a tie is not provided for by the design, then the lower flanging on the apron is not needed, however, the outlet for moisture should be made larger.

Do-it-yourself installation of the passage assembly

Placement begins after the laying of air ducts inside the building, ideally at the same time as the roof covering is laid. The technology involves the use of silicone or rubber seals or sealant. Action plan:

1. The node point of the passage of the ventilation pipe through the roof is determined. The last section of the duct should be as close as possible to the ridge without damaging the rafter system (shifting of the crate is allowed). At its nearest lower bend, a cover is provided to remove condensate.

2. The marking is carried out and the coating is carefully cut using a template. The diameter of the hole to be cut out exceeds the section of the ventilation outlet pipe by 30 mm, overruns are not allowed. Metal tiles or profiled sheets require special attention: the material is first drilled inside the designated boundary, and only then a hacksaw blade is inserted into it, all work is carried out manually. With similar accuracy, all layers of the cake are removed.

3. Installation of the lower penetration flanges with their fixing from the side of the attic, pulling and connecting the air duct.

4. Inserting a pipe, insulating the inner layers of the cake with fiberglass or mineral wool.

5. Laying a protective apron around the pipe.

6. Putting on the skirt, screwing its edges to the roof with screws, sealing the junction with the pipe using clamps and seals. On roofs with soft and built-up coatings, the protective cap is fixed with a sealant.

7. Installation of a visor to protect the air ducts from debris.

During installation, the main guideline is the manufacturer's instructions. These nodes violate the integrity of the cake and pose a serious threat to the tightness of the roof, they should not be placed in places where moisture or snow accumulates. When organizing natural ventilation of the attic and the absence of air ducts, they are laid simultaneously with the rest of the structures, with the layers of vapor and waterproofing being turned up and fixed to the passage pipe with adhesive tape.

When installing on roofs with a curved surface, special attention is paid to the apron and sealant placed under the skirt. The shape of the latter should repeat all the curves of the wave of tiles or corrugated board

The apron is cut from a sheet of galvanized metal. Its upper edge starts under the ridge bar, and the lower end ends 35-45 cm below the pipe exit point on the roof. Strongly protruding products are additionally fixed with brackets and braces, with a height below 30 cm this is not necessary.

For buildings with a flat roof, UE with concrete cups are used. They are removed through special openings on the floor slabs, provided for by the project, and sealed with ordinary cement mortar and liquid waterproofing. The installation of protective visors is mandatory, the more reliable they are, the better.

Regardless of the variety, sections with ventilation units are periodically inspected for loss of tightness, if they are detected, measures to strengthen it are taken immediately.

Round chimney passage

If the choice was made in favor of a pipe with a circular cross section, then usually, to ensure its tight connection to the roof and eliminate the risk of leakage and heat loss, special cuttings with a circular cross section made at enterprises are used. In appearance, they resemble corrugated cuffs equipped with wide brim. They are made of rubber, but special - heat-resistant, synthetic. Aluminum cutouts are also on sale. The convenience of their use lies in the fact that they easily repeat the wavy profile of the metal tile and can be fixed both with the help of fasteners and with adhesives.

Chimney seal

On a note! Similar penetrations are also used in the installation of antennas, masts, ventilation shafts and other elements that violate the integrity of the roof.

A hole is cut in the synthetic rubber penetration, 20% smaller than the diameter of the pipe itself. Then it is pulled onto the pipe itself (to facilitate the process, you can use a soap solution applied to the pipe). After that, the rubber product is pressed against the roof and fixed on it with sealant and roofing screws in increments of about 3.5 cm.

Usually, basalt wool serves as thermal insulation, but it must be special: to withstand high temperatures. When buying a material, make sure that it is designed for use at temperatures of 800-1000 ° C. These materials have a higher cost, but saving on safety is unreasonable. Cheaper options include binders that sinter at high temperatures, due to which the thermal insulation loses all its properties, and this can lead to a fire. In addition, it is desirable to use a foil heat insulator - this will make the design even safer.

Features of installation of a typical design

Penetration units for ventilation communications of industrial production are performed in accordance with the requirements of GOST-15150. It is believed that the air temperature inside the communication pipe should not exceed 80 degrees, and the flow humidity should be within 60%.

The place where the ventilation pipe passes through the roof usually has a square configuration, this must be taken into account when choosing the shape of the duct and the type of transition node

To calculate the passage node, one should take into account such indicators as the slope angle of the slope and the distance from the element to the roof ridge. A typical transition node can be made in the following variations:

• with or without condensate ring;
• with insulated or conventional valve or without valve;
• with manual or mechanical control for the valve;
• with or without spark protection, etc.

The options listed may vary depending on the situation. For example, it is not necessary to install a mechanical valve if the system is stable and does not need constant adjustment. It is also possible to manufacture a penetration unit on order.

Typical units for penetration through the roof, made at industrial enterprises, are very diverse, they are selected depending on the size of the pipe and the characteristics of the roof

Structures of this type are made of polymers, stainless steel 0.5-0.8 mm thick and black steel 1.5-2 mm thick. The cross section of the finished transition node can be round, oval, square or rectangular. A specific model is chosen depending on the type of roofing material and the parameters of the ventilation pipe.

Although foreign-made passage assemblies are usually of high quality, they are not always adapted to local climatic conditions, so it does not hurt to carefully study the offers of domestic manufacturers. They are usually labeled as follows:

• the letters UE with an index from 1 to 10 indicate a design without a condenser ring and a valve;
• indexes from 2 to 10 indicate devices with a manual valve, the ring is missing;
• the designation UPD is assigned to devices with a special platform for the actuator for the valve, which is provided for by the design.

The complete set of ready-made models of transition nodes includes embedded bolts and nuts that are attached to wooden structures, reinforced concrete cups intended for installation. Mineral wool is successfully used for thermal insulation, which is recommended to be protected with a layer of fiberglass.

If it is necessary to install a ventilation unit with a safety valve, you should pay attention to the branch pipe intended for it. A valve must be attached to the bottom flange of this element.

The upper flange is designed to fix the position of the air duct. Clamps and brackets are used as fasteners for braces.

To further protect the ventilation stack from moisture, you need to use a skirt. The condensate collector is welded to the branch pipe. It is designed to remove moisture from the air masses that move through the ventilation duct. To control the valve, a mechanical unit is used, which should be installed on the shelf intended for it.

This element should not be installed next to the condensate collection ring in order to maintain the integrity of all penetration elements. Typical node models are usually mounted before the start of roofing work: first, the ventilation system ducts are mounted, then the passage, and the roof is placed after that.

• clean the surfaces of the pipe and roof from contamination;
• seal the lower part of the duct and the adjacent section of the roof with foil paper;
• fill holes with sealant.

These measures will help protect the penetration from moisture and create additional thermal insulation of the structure.

Passage requirements

Of course, in a place where a ventilation or any other pipe passes through the roof, it is necessary to ensure sufficient tightness so that moisture does not get inside the building. At the same time, this knot should not interfere with the runoff of precipitation from the roof surface. Another important point is the presence of reliable thermal insulation.

From above, the pipe should be protected from moisture penetration using a deflector. Certain requirements are imposed on the length of the ventilation pipe, designed to ensure sufficient draft inside the structure, although they are not as strict as the norms for chimneys.

Often, air exchange through ventilation is provided forcibly, using an exhaust fan, which is also installed near the transition node. This mechanism should also be reliably protected from the effects of precipitation and other natural factors. In addition, it is imperative to ensure that the electrical appliance is grounded.

Improper installation of this unit often causes poor removal of precipitation from the surface, which can lead to rapid damage to the roofing material. A lot of trouble can cause the ventilation duct of an apartment building if it goes to the roof across the slope.

In addition to the assembly of the passage of the ventilation duct through the roof, additional elements may be needed that protect the structure from precipitation, improve moisture removal, etc.

It is much better if the knot is located along the slope, so it will create less obstacles for water to drain. The optimal position is the location of a large transition node along the ridge. This option eliminates the need to install additional elements that reduce the resistance of the ventilation pipe to the convergence of precipitation.

A serious installation error is the position in which the front apron is under the roofing sheet. An apron is a structure that ensures a hermetic fit of the roof to the pipe walls. If the lower part of the apron is brought under the roof, water will flow into the gap, falling into the roofing pie and then into the attic space.

The installation principles of the ventilation system transition point can also be used for the installation of other similar devices, for example, chimneys

The absence of a heat-insulating layer contributes to the appearance of a temperature difference, which contributes to the formation of condensate on the surface of the ventilation pipes. Over time, this situation can lead to damage to the material of construction, the formation of mold, oxides, rust deposits, etc.

The outer part of the ventilation pipe protruding above the roof must be protected with a deflector cap from the penetration of moisture and precipitation.

In old ventilation ducts, the so-called “otter” is usually provided - a thickening that allows the heated air to cool slightly before exiting to the roof. As a result, the temperature difference between air and roof communications will be less, which will reduce the likelihood of condensation.

In modern houses, aprons are used, with the help of which the gap between the pipe and the roof is completely sealed. In this case, cuts for installing aprons are formed using a grinder. Insulation of metal and plastic pipes can be done with mineral wool or other suitable material.

For a round ventilation duct, it is better to choose an industrial model of the transition node, since it will not be easy to make such a device on your own

Sometimes a wooden or metal box is used for these purposes. When designing a ventilation system, you should immediately consider the option of arranging a passage through the roof. Experts note that a pipe with a rectangular or square section is much easier to bring out than a round structure.

To ensure a sufficiently tight connection between the ventilation pipe and the roofing material, a square sleeve is usually used, which is put on top of the pipe. You can bring ventilation above the roof to almost any convenient height. There are no special fire safety requirements here either.

The node of the passage of ventilation and chimney through the roof is carried out after the installation of the ventilation system, but before the installation of the roofing pie and laying the coating

However, at the same time, it is necessary to ensure a sufficient length of the structure so that the passage assembly is securely fastened to all roof elements.

Pay attention to the distance between the edge of the pipe and the deflector fixed above it. It should be so large that the air masses passing through the ventilation duct can move freely.

Passage through metal roofing

The metal tile represents sheets from steel, copper or aluminum which are covered with a polymeric layer. In appearance, they resemble natural tiles, which are folded in even rows. This roofing material is very popular. If a round pipe is passed through the metal tile, flexible adapters are used, which we have already talked about. With the option of a square or quadrangular brick pipe, a different method is used. It is as follows:

A connector is being made. It consists of two aprons - internal (main) and external (decorative). The material of manufacture is a thin aluminum sheet or tin.

Before the metal tile is laid, an internal apron is installed on the crate. These are 4 strips located on 4 sides of the pipe. They simultaneously go under the metal tile (no less than 250 mm) and on the pipe (no less than 150 mm).

The elements of the apron are installed in a strobe - a groove that is cut along the perimeter of the pipe to a depth of 10 to 15 mm. The gate is cleaned and filled with fire-resistant sealant.

To install the apron, a special strobe must be made in the pipe

The apron is attached to the pipe with heat-resistant dowels. The joints between the four planks are soldered. On the slats that are on the sides, bumpers are made, the purpose of which is to divert water down.

The lower part of the apron is mounted on the so-called tie - a sheet of metal with sides. This ensures that water is drained from the chimney to the bottom of the roof. The width of the tie must be greater than that of the pipe by at least 0.5 m on both sides. Its length depends on the distance from the pipe to the edge of the roof.

After installing the tie and the inner apron, the metal tile is laid.

From above, an external apron is mounted. It is usually a corrugated sheet of lead or aluminum. In its upper part there is a decorative strip. It is attached to the pipe with self-tapping screws. The attachment point is slightly higher than the parts of the inner apron. Before fixing the decorative strips, the attachment points are coated with sealant. To attach the corrugated sheet, its back side is provided with a self-adhesive coating.

Finished chimney through a metal tile
It might be interesting! Read about in the article at the following link.

The passage of a round chimney pipe through a wooden ceiling using polyurethane foam of various designs

To pass the chimney through wooden structures, you can use a ready-made ceiling-through assembly (see photo). It is selected based on the outer diameter of the pipe. Before installation, this node of the passage through the ceiling must be prepared: all surfaces that will come into contact with the wood of the ceiling sheathing, and all internal surfaces of the passage box are laid out with thermal insulation.

Ceiling pass-through assembly of factory production. Before use, it must be overlaid with heat-insulating material on all sides, except for the front.

Usually, basalt wool serves as thermal insulation, but it must be special: to withstand high temperatures. When buying a material, make sure that it is designed for use at temperatures of 800-1000 ° C. These materials have a higher cost, but it is unreasonable to save on safety. Cheaper options include binders that sinter at high temperatures, due to which the thermal insulation loses all its properties, and this can lead to a fire. In addition, it is desirable to use a foil heat insulator - this will make the design even safer.

Having insulated the passage node, prepare a place for its installation. On the ceiling, mark where the chimney will be located. Outline a hole of a suitable size: slightly smaller than the size of the front panel of the pass-through node in such a way that it is convenient to attach it to the ceiling sheathing with self-tapping screws. Having cut a hole, cover its edges with the same heat insulator as the passage node, or any other with similar properties. To increase the level of fire safety, metal strips can be strengthened over the heat insulator. Insert the prepared passage assembly into the finished hole. It can be put on the pipe and installed with it. Having installed this structure in place, fix the panel of the passage unit with self-tapping screws (the holes can be pre-drilled).

Preparation and installation of the ceiling penetration

After checking the verticality of the installation of the chimney pipe, proceed to complete this stage. The voids remaining in the passage node are filled with thermal insulation. You can use pieces of the same basalt wool or fill the voids with expanded clay. Sand can be used, in theory, but not worth it. It loses in terms of heat-insulating properties and expanded clay and basalt wool, in addition, sooner or later it will be at the bottom, since there are cracks, and through them grains of sand will fall onto the stove.

Further actions depend on where you led the chimney: to the second floor or to the attic. But the main difference is in the aesthetics and the availability of finishes. If you brought the chimney pipe to the attic, then the passage through the ceiling can be considered complete. If you brought the chimney to the second floor or to the attic, you put on a protective metal screen on the pipe, which is now attached to the floor with the same self-tapping screws. After that, you proceed to the next stage - the conclusion through the next ceiling (this is if you are on the second floor) or through the roof, if in the attic or in the attic.

It looks like the penetration of the ceiling in finished form

The passage unit of the chimney through the ceiling may also look like this. This is a ready-to-use version, which consists of two boxes. The inner box is made of metal, the outer box is made of heat-resistant material (in this case, mineralite).

Minerite roof passage node. It is completely ready to use

Between them there is an air gap that provides fire safety. According to the manufacturers, the remaining free space between the sandwich pipe and the cutting box does not require filling with a heat insulator. You can leave everything as it is, or you can, for greater reliability, still add heat-resistant thermal insulation. In such a case, as the passage of a chimney through a wooden floor, it is better to play it safe than to put out the fire later.

This is how the minerite node of the passage through the roof is installed. Just put it on the pipe and put it on the prepared method

The passage node through the ceiling can be like this (see photo). In this case, sealing the edges of the hole in the ceiling is mandatory (recall, first, thermal insulation along the edge, metal on top).

The factory aisle assembly may look different. Depending on the form, the installation method varies slightly.

Features of a metal chimney

Metal chimneys, types

The best option for the construction of a metal chimney would be to use sandwich pipes. They are a three-layer structure:

• inner pipe;
• a layer of thermal insulation located on top of it;
• outer pipe.

Sandwich pipe for chimney, structure

Sandwich pipe has two very important advantages:

• it does not heat up too much outside, therefore it cannot damage the wooden floors, in addition, its use will minimize the risk of fire;
• thanks to the three-layer design with the presence of a heat insulator inside the chimney, condensation will not form during the cold season;
• also due to the presence of a heater, the high temperature in the room is kept much better, however, such pipes also significantly lose in this characteristic to brick chimneys.

Scheme of installation of a sandwich chimney

In general, the main advantages of a metal chimney for a bath include:

• ease of installation - assembling such a structure will take much less time and effort than laying a brick pipe;
• smooth inner surface - soot and soot will settle on it in minimal quantities, smoke will go out in a directed stream, and traction will be good;
• cheapness - especially if you do not use ready-made sandwich pipes, but make them yourself.

Condensation appears on the inner surface of a metal chimney in the event of a sharp temperature drop. The use of sandwich pipes minimizes this problem. To further reduce it, you need to use pipes with the thickest possible layer of thermal insulation.

Dimensions of sandwich chimneys

Note! It is best to make a metal chimney, consisting of two main parts. In this embodiment, an ordinary single-layer pipe should depart from the furnace, it will warm up the interior

Sandwich pipes are put on top of it, it is they who will go further out. An important advantage of this option is its cheapness: the fact is that the pipe located near the furnace heats up more, so it quickly becomes unusable. When this happens, it can be replaced without having to buy a new sandwich pipe.

Sauna chimney

is an extremely responsible task in itself, requiring special accuracy, sequence of actions, and strict adherence to the developed technological recommendations. Whatever material is used to cover the roof, it must ultimately provide one hundred percent protection of the building from the destructive effects of precipitation.

One of the most vulnerable in terms of possible water penetration and difficult to install nodes is the adjoining of the roof to the chimney or ventilation pipe. The durability of the truss system, the attic floor, and often even the finishes in the house itself directly depends on how well such areas will be sealed. Therefore, it is very important to treat this stage of roofing work with special attention and accuracy.

Features of the arrangement of the passage of the chimney through the roof

A high-quality adjoining of the roofing material to the pipe can only be done if the roof has a reliable rigid crate corresponding to the type of roof and the steepness of the slopes, on which the load will be evenly distributed both from the mass of the roof system itself and from external influences.

• The best option is when the chimney is installed even before the arrangement of the crate. That is, in most construction of the rafter system, a passage is provided for it, reinforced with additional details. In such cases, it will be much easier to connect sheet or piece roofing material to the pipe than in those when it is necessary to organize a passage for the newly erected pipe in the finished crate.
• If the pipe is installed later, then in order to make room for the passage of the chimney, it will be necessary to dismantle some elements of the crate, which may well weaken the overall structure.
• It is also necessary to foresee in advance that the pipe does not fall on the rafter leg, since its partial or complete dismantling is an extremely undesirable operation. If the pipe still falls on one of the rafters, and part of it has to be removed, then before carrying out this process, it is necessary to immediately install retaining posts under the remaining parts, which are fixed to the floor beams. In addition, most often you also have to connect parts of this leg with whole rafters, horizontal lintels.
• Whatever option neither considered, around the chimney, it is imperative to equip an additional reliable frame, which must be firmly connected to other elements of the rafter system and roof sheathing.

Prices for chimney pipes

flue pipe

• The clearance between the chimney and the elements of the truss system is regulated by the rules of SNiP 41-01-2003, paragraph 6.6.22. It states that the distance from the surfaces of concrete and brick chimneys to any parts of the truss system and roofing "pie" made of combustible material should be no less than 130 mm. From ceramic pipes that do not have insulation, this clearance must be at least 250 mm, and in the presence of thermal insulation - also at least 130 mm.

Remaining not closed space between the pipe and combustible or even low-combustible roof coverings, only completely non-combustible materials (usually sheet metal is used for these purposes).

The design of the junctions of the roofing to the pipe

When a reliable basis for arranging the adjoining of the roofing material to the chimney is ready, you can proceed to the installation of the coating sealing elements.

The design of the system for adjoining the coating to the pipe may be different, depending on the selected roofing material. The functions that are assigned to the elements included in the junction design are sealing and waterproofing the joints of the roof covering and ventilation or chimney pipes, as well as the removal and redirection of water flows flowing from the roof ridge to the pipe from above.

The scheme for arranging such an junction should ideally be determined even when drafting the truss system and roofing. The fact is that some options involve the installation of individual structural parts before laying the roofing.

In addition to the type of roof chosen to cover the roof, the location of the chimney, its shape, and the material from which it is made should also be taken into account when drafting the project.

Professional builders usually recommend that only ready-made structures, which are produced by roofing manufacturers, be used for arranging junctions. However, many craftsmen prefer to make these parts on their own.

It should be noted that the chimney pipe passing through the roof directly on the ridge line of the roof is the easiest to seal. With this arrangement, water during rain, as well as snow drifts in winter, are not able to accumulate above the back wall of the pipe, which minimizes the risk of roof leakage in this, perhaps, the most vulnerable junction.

It will not be difficult to equip a reliable connection of the roofing material to the chimney, which is located in close proximity to the ridge line, that is, almost immediately behind the ridge element. A very small space is also obtained above the pipe, which does not allow the accumulation of snow and water.

But to perform high-quality sealing of the chimney located in the middle or lower part of the roof slope is much more difficult. In this case, waterproofing must be especially reliable. Therefore, quite often, and especially, for example, when the roof is covered with a soft bituminous roof, it is necessary to equip an additional pitched structure - as shown in the illustration above. Such a special break in the roof will dilute water flows, directing them along the side walls of the pipe. Such protective extensions to the pipe are usually called grooves.

And, of course, the most difficult thing is to qualitatively equip the junction around the chimney, which falls on the middle or lower part of the valley. The pipe in this case will be in the path of pronouncedly directed flows of water, which, during rain or snowmelt, will flow into the chute of the junction of the slopes. In this case, it is extremely important to reliably seal not only the back side of the pipe, but also its side lines. Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to try very hard to avoid such a location of the pipe.

Now, in order to answer the most popular questions that arise in the process of arranging this roof assembly, it is necessary to consider several options for sealing pipe passages through the roof.

Sealing passages of round pipes

As you know, stoves and fireplaces in recent years are increasingly equipped with round chimneys of different diameters. Modern metal chimney pipes most often represent a "sandwich construction", that is, they consist of three layers - two metal cylinders, external and internal, and a layer of thermal insulation between them. As a thermal insulation, as a rule, basalt-based mineral wool is used.

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Manufacturers have provided for sealing the adjoining of such round pipes to the roofing with special elements - penetrations. These parts can be made of metal or an elastic, heat-resistant composite material, which is mounted in combination with metal elements.

In principle, according to the same principle, a hermetic adjoining of the roof is also arranged for ventilation pipes.

Metal penetration for round pipes

Variants of finished metal products for arranging the adjoining of the roof to round pipes usually consist of two parts. This is an apron cap and the so-called "sole", which is a rigid base and made of steel sheet, on which the cap is fixed by the manufacturer. Metal penetrations differ from each other in the angle of inclination of the lower plate of the structure with respect to the cap, therefore, are selected depending on the slope of the roof. As a rule, in specialized stores you can always find the right version of the products, since they are produced for roof slopes of various slope slopes.

The upper part of the cap, before mounting the structure on the roof, is cut off to the diameter of the chimney pipe, since it must pass freely through the opening of the cap. Then, the “sole” is rigidly fixed to the roof surface with the help of roofing screws, on which sealing elastic gaskets made of rubber or neoprene are put on.

Very often, when installing a metal penetration on a relief roofing, to enhance the sealing of the abutment, a metal sheet is fixed above the pipe, which is brought under the ridge element and fixed overlay on the upper side of the “foot” of the penetration.

After the sole is fixed on the roof surface, and the pipe is passed through the penetration, the upper edge of the cap is pressed against the chimney using a special clamp, in which a heat-resistant elastic gasket is installed. This element will protect the junction of two elements from moisture ingress into it.

Ready elastic penetrations

As mentioned above, in addition to metal penetrations, you can also find elastic ones on sale, equipped in the lower part with a sole made of soft flexible metal, such as lead or aluminum. Through this plastic, but retaining the shape given to it, framing the "sole" of the penetration, it is fixed to the crate, through the surface of the roofing material. The cap itself is made of weather-resistant elastic rubber, and tightly covers the pipe around the circumference, especially since it is usually also “caught” with a metal clamp.

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The advantage of elastic penetrations lies in their versatility, as they can be installed on slopes that are built at any slope. Due to the flexibility of the combined penetration base, the sole is easy to shape the relief of the roofing material.

Such flexible penetrations for round pipes are often referred to as "master flash". There is no shortage of such products in our time. And installation is very simple, and available to any owner of the house.

Video: installation of an elastic penetration for a master flash chimney

Sealing the junction of the roof to the round pipe using aluminum or lead tape

In cases where, for some reason, it is not possible to use ready-made penetrations for sealing pipe passages, a special self-adhesive aluminum or lead tape can be used to perform these works. Due to the flexibility, heat resistance and versatility of this material, you can use it to form a penetration yourself.

Pieces of tape are pasted over the vertical part of the pipe with the transition to the roofing. And then the tape is fixed around the chimney - in this way, sealed abutment joint.

This material is highly resistant to various external negative influences: high and low temperatures and their sudden changes, to moisture, ultraviolet radiation,

In order for the tape to provide high-quality waterproofing of the junction, and the sealing to last as long as possible, the tape must be glued to a clean, fat-free and dried surface of both pipes and roofs.

Options for sealing the junction of the roof to pipes of rectangular or square section

For arranging abutment around pipes having a rectangular or square cross section (most often brick), ready-made standard systems manufactured by roofing manufacturers are also used. In this regard, when purchasing this or that roofing material, you can immediately buy or order a set of penetration parts for a brick or concrete chimney for specific sizes.

This standard sheet metal version can be used for roofing materials such as, profiled sheet, as well as the familiar slate of the old and new modifications. For these coatings, the joint sealing scheme shown below is usually used.

So, before roofing sheets are fixed on the frame of the crate, preparatory work is carried out, which includes the following steps.

• Additional crate bars are fixed around the pipe, their cross-sectional size can be the same as that of other crate elements.
• Then, from the front wall of the pipe down to the eaves of the roof is fixed, so-called"tie", equipped flanging on both sides. The tie is usually made from galvanized sheet metal.
• Further, around the pipe, on top of the “tie”, a wall profile is laid and fixed. Its upper edge, which has a bend in the opposite direction with a size of 8 ÷ 10 mm, is inserted into a pre-cut groove on the chimney wall.
• Then, at this junction of the wall apron and the pipe wall, it is imperative to apply a weather-resistant sealant, that is, intended for external work.
• The next step is the installation of roofing material.
• The final stage is the installation and fixing of the external wall profile - an apron, consisting of four elements, installed on all sides of the pipe. These parts of the apron are screwed to the walls of the chimney, and are also fastened together at its corners.

Another, more modern option for sealing the abutment involves the use of self-adhesive waterproofing lead tape, which is convenient for use on both flat and any relief roofing.

When using such a tape, it must be fixed on the surfaces of the pipe walls with the help of special clamping metal strips, which can be made independently. The upper joint of the strips with the pipe walls must be additionally covered with a layer of weather-resistant sealant.

Flexible waterproofing self-adhesive tape is perfect for sealing the abutment of roofing coverings with tall enough embossed pattern, as it easily takes its shape when pasted and retains it. Such a tape is very often used to close joints if the roof is covered with ceramic tiles, slate or ondulin.

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Sealing the adjoining ondulin roof to a brick chimney - step by step

It has already been said above that many manufacturers of roofing materials tend to accompany their products with proprietary systems for sealing pipe passages. One example is the design system for adjoining the pipe to the wavy cellulose-bitumen roofing material ondulin, which is quite popular in our time.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	In this case, a variant of arranging the adjoining of a roof covered with ondulin to a rectangular chimney or chimney is presented. The sealing system will be mounted after the roofing material has been laid on the crate. The gap between the coating and the sides of the pipe, as well as below it, should be 20÷30 mm. On the rear side of the chimney, i.e. facing the ridge, the distance between the pipe wall and the batten can vary between 50 and 100 mm.
	In order to fix the sealing apron along the perimeter of the pipe, it is necessary to include additional elements of the crate in the roof structure in advance, which are fixed along the walls of the chimney pipe. For this additional crate, a beam with a section size of 40 × 40, 40 × 30 or 50 × 30 mm is suitable.
	The first step is to close the junction of the roof with the pipe from the front side of the pipe with a covering apron made specifically for ondulin. Usually, the manufacturer of roofing material also produces additional elements for the design of adjoining, ridge and other complex and vulnerable coating units. Therefore, when purchasing material, you must immediately ask about the range of additional elements, and, making preliminary calculations, they must be immediately included in the project.
	The covering apron is applied to the place of its future installation - along the lower edge of the pipe facing the eaves. Marking is made on the apron, according to which it will be necessary to make cuts. The upper, flat part of the apron should remain exactly the width of the pipe, and the wavy part should have one wave on each side. In this case, it is necessary to cut the wavy part along the lower crest of the wave. First, the marking is done with a pencil.
	And then the apron is cut according to the marked markings. It is most convenient to cut the part with a sharp construction knife.
	Further, the finished apron is pressed against the pipe and fixed to the roof surface using branded roofing nails. The nails must enter through the ondulin into the beam of the crate installed around the pipe.
	In this case, nails are driven into the top of each wave of the apron relief. Fastening is not carried out only on the extreme waves that go beyond the dimensions of the pipe on both sides. It is very important to drive in the nails correctly, strictly vertically to the roof surface. And measure the efforts so as not to deform the coating when the fasteners are clogged too much.
	Now you need to prepare a waterproofing self-adhesive tape "Onduflash-super". This material is excellent for sealing complex areas - the butyl rubber component has excellent waterproofing qualities, and the aluminum base allows you to give the tape very complex shapes. The standard tape width is 300 mm. The length of the first segment should be 250÷300 mm
	The cut off piece of tape is applied to the future installation site and preliminarily bent along the relief of the sealed corner. The function of this segment will be to seal the edges of the previously fixed apron.
	After fitting the tape to the installation site, a protective film is removed from its back, covering the adhesive layer.
	The tape is applied at the area where the roof adjoins the pipe at the front corners so that it can simultaneously close the upper and lower parts of the apron by 70 ÷ 80 mm. In order for the tape to bend into the required position and fit snugly against the material of the roof, apron and pipe, its corner is cut.
	Further, the tape must be pressed with a good effort to all surfaces. It is especially important that the tape fits as tightly as possible along the joint line. First, such sealing is carried out on one lower corner of the pipe, and then the same is done on the opposite side.
	The next step is to attach the side apron to the pipe. The part is pressed against the surface of the roof and against the side wall of the pipe and the cut lines are marked.
	Sections of the upper part of the apron must be made clearly along the vertical boundaries of the pipe, that is, the edges of the apron are cut at a certain angle. And the lower part of the part, located on the roofing, should extend beyond the pipe both in its lower and upper parts by 100 ÷ 150 mm.
	Cuts are made along the marked lines with a sharp knife. First, a metal ruler is applied to the markup and it is necessary to draw a knife along it with gentle pressure.
	That is, the material of the apron is cut through approximately ⅔ of its thickness. Then, from a slight bending force, the apron part breaks off neatly along the cut line.
	In the next step, the prepared side parts of the apron are nailed to the roofing surface, under which additional elements of the crate are fixed. It is enough to drive three nails into each of the side parts of the apron - one in the center and one at the top and bottom.
	Further, a piece is cut off from the waterproofing self-adhesive tape, along the length exceeding the width of the pipe by 200 mm. This segment will go to seal the rear, the most vulnerable part of the chimney penetration.
	The cut off part of the waterproofing tape is applied to the place of its future installation and bent along the line where the roofing sheets adjoin the pipe. At the same time, they try to immediately give the maximum shape to its lower part, repeating the waves of ondulin sheets.
	Next, the protective film is carefully removed from the tape, and the waterproofing material is pressed tightly against the surface of the pipe and against the roofing. The sides of the tape are cut so that the top of the cut parts can be glued to the sides of the pipe, where the apron elements are already fixed. Thus, the tape isolates the junction of the side element of the apron with the pipe wall, preventing water drops from penetrating here during rain.
	The next task is to glue the waterproofing tape on the front side of the pipe. It is fixed on top of the front upper part of the apron, that is, the one that goes onto the pipe. The width of the tape should be 100 ÷ 150 mm, and its length should exceed the width of the pipe by 200 ÷ 300 mm, since it will bend onto the sides of the pipe and hide under the side parts of the apron. The tape must also be pressed very well against the brick or plaster surface of the pipe.
	Further, the upper edge of the waterproofing tape from the front side of the chimney is pressed with a metal fixing strip. Its fastening is made on dowels.
	The same strips are screwed to the sides of the pipe, 15 ÷ 17 mm below the edge of the apron. The photo clearly shows how the fixing rail should be located, the ends of which are cut along the line of the pipe corners.
	Further, the edges of the apron, remaining on top of the screwed side clamping strips, must be slightly bent from the surface of the pipe.
	Now this formed corner between the pipe wall and the slightly bent edge of the apron is densely filled with a layer of polyurethane sealant. For this operation, you will need a special construction syringe gun.
	Now it remains only to cut and lay an additional piece of ondulin on the back of the pipe. Its width should be equal to the width of the location of the side elements of the apron. and the length is from the ridge to the pipe. An additional piece of ondulin is laid on top of the already laid coating, as well as on top of the waterproofing tape glued to it and the pipe.
	The laid additional fragment of ondulin is nailed to the crate directly through the coating that has cooled down below. Fixation is carried out with roofing nails driven into the top of each wave of the coating.
	When the arrangement of the junction of the roofing material with the pipe is completed, you can proceed to the further installation of the ridge elements. This ridge element will close the upper edge of the additional ondulin sheet on top of the pipe.

The information presented above quite convincingly indicates that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in sealing the area where the roof adjoins the chimney pipe. It is quite possible to carry out such work on your own. However, at the same time, one should not forget about compliance with all safety requirements, since the work will take place at high altitude. Performing any installation operations on roof slopes without safety devices is extremely frivolous!

At the end of the publication, we suggest watching a video that shows in detail the process of sealing the adjunction of a tiled roof.

Video: Sealing the junction with a ceramic tile roof pipe