The main reasons why spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow. Why do spathiphyllum have pale leaves Why do spathiphyllum flowers turn green

Spathiphyllum is an unpretentious plant in care, which can often be seen in offices and apartments. It does not require much work for the flower to give lanceolate foliage and produce flower stalks with a white bract. But sometimes it starts to lose its color. There are several reasons why spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow.

Micronutrient deficiency

The leaves of the flower can become pale yellow very quickly. And they can be a sign of various problems. Due to the fact that the symptoms are so similar, it is difficult for even experienced flower growers to determine the reason for the behavior of their plant the first time. If the foliage begins to wither, then this will necessarily entail a weakening of the entire plant. When the leaves of a spathiphyllum turn yellow, this may also signal that putrefactive processes have begun on the roots.

Poor conditions of detention are the main reason why the spathiphyllum turns yellow. What to do in this case, you need to decide based on the type of problem. If the bush bloomed profusely and for a long time, then yellow foliage is a sign of fatigue, the plant has wasted its strength and nutrients. In this case, the lower foliage begins turn yellow at first, and then fade.

It is necessary to fertilize if the leaves of the spathiphyllum have drooped, which should be done at least twice a year. If there are not enough individual nutrients in the soil or the plant itself receives poor nutrition, the foliage may turn yellow entirely. For top dressing, purchase a universal complex fertilizer.

Spathiphyllum reacts sharply to a lack of magnesium. If he lacks this element, then the bush itself will be sluggish, its growth will slow down significantly. In this case, the veins on the sheet will remain green, but the tissues between them will become brown or yellow. In this case, the composition of the fertilizer should include magnesium sulfate.

It may also be necessary to transplant a flower if you have not done this for a long time: pick up a looser pot, choose a loose nutrient soil in which the plant takes root best. Transplanting is best done every spring.

Proper lighting

If the tips of the foliage still remain pale and yellowish, then the plant may be exposed to direct sunlight frequently. the brightness of the greenery began to disappear intensively, then the answer may lie in the fact that you often expose the pot to sunlight. Spathiphyllum loves the light, but the hot summer sun is a common cause of yellowness. Sheet plates can get severe burns. And if the sun is not enough, then the foliage turns pale, its growth slows down.

dry air

In winter, the main enemy of spathiphyllum is dry air. . If the bush is located nearby with heating devices, then you are unlikely to be able to avoid the withering of the foliage. Yellowing begins at the tip, and then spreads throughout the leaf plate. The plant weakens, flowering stops. A number of measures need to be taken:

• remove the bush away from heating;
• have a container with clean water nearby;
• use the spray gun to spray the foliage;
• use humidifiers.

Then the plant will respond to your care with the splendor of greenery, good and frequent flowering. If the foliage has not had time to be badly damaged, then over time it will acquire its former color, but it is better to remove the dried leaf plates in a timely manner so that they do not turn into a breeding ground for pests and harmful fungi.

Irrigation mistakes.

If you violated the irrigation regime, then foliage color change will start from the edges - a dried black border will begin to form there. Therefore, it is worth returning to the previous watering and following the general recommendations:

It is recommended to reduce the frequency and intensity of watering in winter. In summer, the need for water increases. But still, you should never oversaturate the soil with moisture! To reduce evaporation, mulch the soil with sphagnum moss or pebbles.

Diseases and pests

Yellow foliage may indicate disease or pest damage. Most often, such a bush is attacked by spider mites, thrips and mealybugs. First you need to identify the source of danger, and only then resort to the treatment of your green handsome. Treatment is as follows:

• the bush needs to be treated with insecticides;
• if soil pests appear, then it needs to be transplanted into another container and fed with nutrients;
• for prevention, use disinfected soil: it will help protect the flower from possible infection with harmful fungi.

If the lower foliage turned yellow, began to dry out, brown spots grow, after which they move to neighboring leaves - this is a sign of a fungal disease. It is necessary to take urgent measures until the disease has passed to the roots and stems, otherwise the plant will suffer irreparable damage.

It is necessary to treat it with special preparations (fungicide), then transplant it into a new container, after removing the affected areas so that the disease does not spread. In addition to the leaves, you need to examine the stem and roots: the fungus often affects them too.

Spathiphyllum is called still "women's happiness"- it is believed that he helps women meet their soul mate or establish harmonious relationships in the family. But even if you don’t believe in omens, you can’t help but notice how this spectacular plant with bright leaves and unusual flowers decorates the interior, how much more comfortable it becomes with it in the house.

And although the spathiphyllum is not capricious, it can only maintain its decorative appearance with appropriate care. The plant should be regularly inspected and urgently taken action if the spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow. What to do in this case, you can decide based on related factors: solve the issue of lighting or watering, feed the plant or transplant it. In response to your care, the spathiphyllum will surely please you with lush foliage and beautiful flowers.

Attention, only TODAY!

Spathiphyllum can be called without exaggeration one of the most popular plants.

Of course, the first and most important reason for buying a spathiphyllum is its wonderful appearance. Glossy dark green leaves and snow-white sails of inflorescences towering above them are unlikely to leave exotic lovers indifferent.

The second reason that causes the constant interest of flower growers in spathiphyllum is its ability to purify the air. The inscription on the label attached to the flower in the store will definitely tell you about this. And, finally, the spathiphyllum is quite unpretentious, it can be recommended for cultivation even for beginner flower growers. In addition, this is perhaps the only flowering plant that can be called relatively shade-tolerant (relatively!)

Spathiphyllum flowers are small, located on the cob - a column in the center of the inflorescence. The main attention is drawn to the white sail - the cover of the inflorescence

An interesting opinion about spathiphyllum flower growers who adore various signs, according to which plants mysteriously solve life problems for us or, on the contrary, create them. So, on some sites, women quite seriously claim that spathiphyllum brings failure in their personal lives, “drives” men out of the house. On the pages of other resources, with the same thoroughness, it is said that the spathiphyllum is “female happiness”, it helps in finding a life partner, therefore it is very useful to grow a flower in a house where there are girls. Thanks to the plant, they will surely find their ideal partner. Whom to believe? Sometimes the signs are so diverse and contradictory that you can easily get confused in them. It is probably better to believe in something that is more suitable for us personally. Or maybe it's better not to rely on the help of plants in such important areas of life?

The birthplace of most species of spathiphyllum is South America (the most famous species of S. Wallis and S. cannolifolia are from there. S. cannifolia, for example, is found mostly in Colombia, in the Amazon). Most species live in tropical forests, along streams and rivers. However, some species of spathiphyllum (for example, S.commutatum) originate from Malaysia, the Solomon Islands. In general, about 40 plant species are known.

Spathiphyllum appeared in Europe quite a long time ago, around the 19th century, when collectors went to South America in search of new exotic plants suitable for indoor cultivation.

The name of the flower is translated extremely simply. In Greek, "spatha" means a veil, and "phyllum" means, respectively, "leaf." That is, speaking in Russian, spathiphyllum is “spread leaf”. Naturally, such a name is a hint at the structure of the spathiphyllum inflorescence - an ear with a veil that resembles an ordinary leaf of a plant. In general, given that exactly this structure of the inflorescence is characteristic of many aroids, they could probably also be called a spathiphyllum, but only one flower received this name.

Spathiphyllum blooms for a long time, relatively shade-tolerant, requires abundant watering, grows rapidly.

I must say that those spathiphyllums that we will meet in the store are hybrid varieties. They are obtained by crossing different types of plants. Recently, the number of these varieties has been increasing, hundreds of plant cultivars are currently known, among which there are the most popular. For example, the giant spathiphyllums Sensation, Pablo and Figaro, which reach a height of 1 m or more, are very much appreciated. It should be noted that, according to many growers, it is precisely such large varieties that are more hardy, bloom easier and more willingly. However, not everyone can afford to have such a giant in the house. Compact plants are suitable for most: Mozart, Chopin, Sweet Chico, etc. Recently, variegated cultivars, such as Domino, Picasso, have become increasingly popular. However, in most cases, such varieties are obtained by introducing a special virus into the tissue culture of the plant, which ensures the appearance of spots on the leaves. It is quite possible that subsequently this property will be gradually lost and the leaves will again become monochromatic.

My spathiphyllum story

Unfortunately, I do not know exactly the name of the variety of my plant, I believe that this is some kind of hybrid of S. Wallis. Purchased from a store when I was looking for the most shade tolerant flowers. And again there was an error. Spathiphyllum, of course, requires significantly less light than, say, pelargonium or other flowering plants. However, it is definitely not suitable for the north window: if there is very little light, the spathiphyllum will stop blooming.

I placed the plant at work in the northwest window. It grew quite successfully, however, it bloomed, although regularly, but not very plentifully. Sometimes the tips of the leaves turned brown, they had to be trimmed and sprayed more. Several times after the weekend, the plant dropped its leaves, but they quickly restored turgor immediately after watering. Soon I was asked for a plant offshoot. To be honest, I didn’t really want to share, because I know that the plant does not always successfully tolerate this procedure. However, I overcame my own greed and divided the bush into several parts. Oddly enough, nothing bad happened. All the shoots took root well, and my delenka also bloomed soon, which is generally incomprehensible (although there was only one flower).

The problems started when I returned from vacation. The leaves of the plant during my absence became pale green, almost yellow. The most annoying thing is that I don't know what happened to the flower. Most likely, he was kept in very bright light, because. on my almost northern window, it could not turn yellow from an excess of light. In general, I cut off all the pale leaves. In the future, the plant grew and took its normal form.

Long flowering for 6-10 weeks is one of the main advantages of spathiphyllum. What we take for a flower is an inflorescence, an ear with a veil. Small flowers, female and male, are located along the column (cob) in the center of the inflorescence. The plant is pollinated by insects, a special kind of bees.

The size of the flowers may vary depending on the plant variety. In some inflorescences are huge, in others they are quite small. The color is always white, but it changes as it fades to light green. The number of flowers depends mainly on how well the care of the plant will be. However, there are varieties that bloom more actively and for a long time, and there are those that are quite difficult to “force” to bloom.

Pruning old spathiphyllum leaves can encourage new side shoots to grow.

It is worth reconciling with the fact that the spathiphyllum will not bloom all year round. Usually the flowering period is limited from March to September. If you bought a blooming spathiphyllum in winter, this is the result of treating the flower with a special hormonal substance - giberellic acid. It is these treatments that allow producers to obtain any flowering plants, regardless of the season of the year. The duration of the effect of the drug is about 2-4 months, after which flowering will end. Amateurs are not recommended to use such hormones, because. it is quite difficult to find the right dose, and it is unlikely that the frequent action of various kinds of artificial stimulants will benefit the plant.

However, there are some ways to activate the flowering of the spathiphyllum. For example, many flower growers notice that the beginning of flowering is often stimulated by rearrangement of the plant. Very often, spathiphyllum does not bloom due to unfavorable growing conditions, such as lack of light. Of course, he does not tolerate excessive amounts of sunlight. However, if the plant is not blooming at the back of the room, try moving it closer to the window. Sometimes this immediately causes the appearance of buds. It happens that spraying the plant or other ways to increase humidity has a beneficial effect. If the spathiphyllum has been grown at too low or very high temperatures, often moving it to optimal conditions will also cause flowering. Perhaps the very fact of rearranging and changing the conditions of growth has a positive effect. Sometimes plant nutrition has a positive effect.

However, if the spathiphyllum is grown under ideal conditions, and moving it from place to place does not lead to flowering, you can try to do the opposite. Within 2-3 weeks, watering the plant should be reduced, then do not water it at all for a week. At the same time, the wilting of the leaves should not be allowed. After that, you should put the plant closer to the window, start watering it and feeding it with mineral and organic fertilizers. Usually flowering occurs in a month.

There is an opinion that the spathiphyllum does not bloom after division, and also after transplantation, until the pot is large and the roots are completely entwined with an earthen ball. However, most likely, flowering is inhibited after these procedures simply because the plant has experienced stress, or the flower is still too young. Otherwise, why in nature, where spathiphyllum roots grow freely in the soil and there is no pot limiting them, plants bloom without problems? Many home gardening enthusiasts note that their spathiphyllums bloomed almost immediately after transplanting into a larger pot. So it is unlikely that it is she who slows down the onset of flowering.

When caring for a spathiphyllum, it is important to cut off faded inflorescences in a timely manner when they are just beginning to turn black.

Lighting is another controversial issue when growing spathiphyllum. The main argument of supporters of the plant's shade tolerance is that in nature it grows in the lower tier of the rainforest, under the canopy of trees. However, the flower forms powerful thickets there, its rhizome grows, and the plant quickly spreads in space in search of clearings where lighting conditions are better.

We can say that bright diffused light is optimal for spathiphyllum, for example, an east window, slightly shaded by other colors. Most likely, in the back of the room, the plant will also look tolerable, but flowering will either be reduced, or, in general, will be absent. However, spathiphyllum can be grown and under artificial lighting.

Spathiphyllum needs constantly moist, but not waterlogged soil. You will easily notice that it is worth forgetting to water the plant, as it immediately lowers the leaves. True, watering usually returns them to normal. However, you should not abuse the endurance of a flower. With each drying, a part of the root system dies off, and very often the leaves that seem to have restored turgor later turn yellow anyway. It is better to water the plant 2-3 times a week in summer (and sometimes in the heat and every day) and about 1 time per week in winter. It is good to soften hard water for irrigation with a few drops of citric acid.

You should also not wait for the topsoil to dry out, because. the resulting layer makes it difficult for the roots of the plant to breathe. When watering, it is advisable to drain excess water from the pan. The only condition for the guaranteed well-being of spathiphyllum with abundant watering is a properly selected substrate, which must be very loose and breathable. In this case, you should not be afraid of overflow at all. Recall that in natural conditions a flower grows near rivers and streams, very often it experiences periods of prolonged flooding. Some flower growers grow certain types of spathiphyllum even in an aquarium. (True, flower growth is not always very active under such conditions). Excessive watering is very harmful only if the plant is grown in a heavy dense substrate, especially at low temperatures.

Like most plants, spathiphyllum is fed about once every 2-3 weeks. The ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (NPK) is 15:15:15. It should be noted that a fertilizer containing trace elements and magnesium is useful for a spathiphyllum, the need for which is somewhat higher in comparison with other plants. In winter, if growth has not stopped, the plant is fed no more than once a month.

Unfortunately, the dust is very visible on the dark shiny leaves of the spathiphyllum, so you will have to wipe them often and bathe the plant at least once a week. However, it should be noted that when using hard water, limescale appears on the leaves, which by no means decorates them. It is also important to remove dry leaves and faded inflorescences in a timely manner. It is undesirable to use chemicals to polish the leaves, but the leaves can be rubbed with milk.

Spathiphyllum prefers a high level of humidity, frequent spraying or keeping in a pan with wet expanded clay. However, it can adapt to drier air, in any case, a humidity level of 40-50% is quite acceptable for a plant.

Spathiphyllum is thermophilic, and the correct temperature is very important for the normal growth of the flower. In winter and summer, it should be + 18-25 0 C (extreme limits + 15-32 0 C). The plant is afraid of drafts. In winter, if the spathiphyllum grows on a cold windowsill, it is better to put it on a foam supply or on a board.

The substrate for spathiphyllum should be very loose. Because the flower grows in a tropical forest in fairly fertile soil near streams; at home, it is desirable to recreate the composition of fallen leaves, rotting wood, compost, coal. For example, you can use a mixture of 2 parts garden soil, 3 parts peat moss, 2 parts perlite, and 3 parts orchid mix that includes bark, charcoal, and gravel. It is useful to add sphagnum, vermiculite to any substrate. You can prepare a mixture of equal parts of sand or perlite, peat, leafy, coniferous and humus soil. The composition can be any, the main thing is that the soil should not be heavy, because. it is in such a substrate that stagnation of moisture and rotting of the roots begins. Good drainage is required.

• Pale leaves indicate excessive lighting. In too bright sun, burns also appear on the leaves. Damaged leaves must be removed, because. they will not return to their normal color.
• Drooping leaves most often indicate insufficient watering. However, the same sign serves as a symptom of waterlogging of the plant if the soil is constantly damp. When rotting, the leaves can curl up, dark spots appear on them. Sometimes the process is accompanied by rotting of the petioles of the leaves. Typically, rotting occurs with excessive watering in low temperature conditions, for example, on a cold windowsill.
• Reduced growth rate and leaf chlorosis (yellowing in which the veins tend to remain green) is a sign of iron and manganese deficiency. Sometimes the reason is insufficient assimilation of these elements due to keeping in the cold or poor aeration of the soil. In any case, these factors must be eliminated.
• Leaves can curl from too low a temperature.
• The edges of the leaves may turn yellow from watering with hard water.
• The lack of flowering may be due to a lack of lighting or the fact that the plant is still too young.
• Droplets of water on the leaves are not at all dangerous and not poisonous. This is a common guttation phenomenon for aroids, associated with the release of an excess amount of liquid in too humid air.

The only way to reproduce is by dividing the plant during transplantation. Sometimes, as a result of damage to the root systems, delenki take root with difficulty, their leaves lose turgor. In this case, withered leaves should be cut off, and the remaining ones should be sprayed abundantly. If, when dividing a plant, a division is obtained completely without roots, it should first be rooted in water (about 2-3 weeks), preferably under polyethylene. When roots 2-3 cm long are formed, the plant is planted in the soil.

Spathiphyllum is moderately poisonous, like all aroids. Its leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals and can cause dermatitis in some people. It is likely that if a cat eats spathiphyllum, it will not die, but it is better not to allow it to regularly consume the plant, because. this can lead to mouth ulcers, vomiting, and diarrhea.

At the same time, spathiphyllum very well cleans the air in the room from harmful impurities. However, to clean a room, for example, with an area of ​​​​about 35 m 2, at least 12 plants will be required.

If on vacation

Spathiphyllum requires constantly moist soil, so when leaving, it is better to entrust the care of it to the neighbors. If you will be absent for no more than a week, water the plant abundantly, put it in a tray with wet expanded clay, the soil surface should also be sprinkled with wet expanded clay.

Unpretentious, easy-to-care spathiphyllums can be found in apartments and offices, they decorate public buildings and plant greenery in educational institutions. Without any tricks and labor on the part of the owner, in response to normal care, the spathiphyllum flower produces new lanceolate foliage and produces flower stalks with a white, flag-like or bedspread bract.

However, this wonderful plant may also have problems, which it signals by all available means, for example, a change in the color of the leaves, their wilting or drying. Why do spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow, and what should a grower do in this case?

Top dressing and transplantation - the necessary care for the spathiphyllum flower

Yellowness on the leaves of a recently healthy green bush appears quickly and can be a sign of a variety of problems. Due to the similarity of symptoms, even experienced hobbyists are rarely able to immediately find the cause of this plant behavior. But you can’t hesitate, because the death of the foliage entails a general weakening of the spathiphyllum, and sometimes it can also signal irreversible putrefactive processes on the roots.

Most often, the source of problems with spathiphyllum is in the care of the flower, or rather, in the lack of attention to the plant.

If the plant bloomed for a long time and profusely, yellowing leaves may mean the bush is tired, having wasted all the strength and available nutrients. In this case, the foliage from the lower tiers is the first to experience a similar deficiency, evenly changes color, and then fades.

Top dressing can help the plant, and if the yellowed spathiphyllum has not been transplanted for a long time, then its transfer to a new, looser pot with nutritious loose soil.

In the future, in order to avoid similar problems, you need to feed the plant twice a year and, as necessary, transplant the bush into a pot in the spring in size.

Spathiphyllum lighting

Spathiphyllum turns yellow when it is in uncomfortable conditions for a long time. Most often, gardeners make the mistake of exposing the pot to direct sunlight. Although the spathiphyllum is very photophilous, the scorching, especially summer sun causes both yellowness and even burns of leaf plates. But with a lack of sun, the spathiphyllum reacts with a slowdown in growth and pale leaves.

If in the summer the main enemy of the plant is the bright sun, then in winter the excessive dryness of the air is detrimental to the spathiphyllum.

When the pot is close to heating appliances, it is unlikely that it will be possible to avoid withering of the aerial part and yellow ones. Yellowing, and then the death of the leaf, begins at the tip, gradually spreading and occupying most of the leaf plate. As a result, the plant weakens, stops flowering ahead of time and may die.

Therefore, wanting to see the plant healthy and beautiful, you can:

• remove the spathiphyllum away from the battery;
• put a container with water next to it;
• use a humidifier;
• use a spray bottle to spray the plant.

In any case, the plant will respond with lush greenery. Slightly damaged leaves regain their previous color, and it is better to remove the leaf plates that have begun to dry so that they do not become a breeding ground for harmful fungi and pests.

Spathiphyllum turns yellow due to a violation of the watering schedule

If the spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow, and the color change starts from the edges of the leaf plate, on which a dried black border forms, this may be a reaction of the flower to a violation:

It is optimal if the substrate is constantly wet, but moisture stagnation should not be allowed.

Therefore, in winter, the intensity and frequency of watering is reduced. And in summer, when the need for moisture increases, to reduce evaporation, the soil is mulched with pebbles or sphagnum moss.

Micronutrient deficiency - the reason for the yellowing of the spathiphyllum

What to do if the leaves of the spatiffillum turn yellow entirely? Most often, this symptom can be considered a sign of a lack of nutrition or a deficiency of certain elements in the soil. An ambulance in this case is top dressing with complex fertilizer for indoor plants. If the roots of the flower are completely covered with an earthen ball, then it is better to immediately transplant the plant, and if necessary, divide a large bush.

Spathiphyllum is very sensitive to magnesium deficiency. Deficiency of this element leads to stunted growth and lethargy of the plant. At the same time, the leaves of the spathiphyllum turn yellow in such a way that the veins remain green, and the tissues between them become yellow or brown. Such bushes are fed with magnesium sulfate.

Pests and diseases of spathiphyllum

The yellowness of the foliage is not only a consequence of improper care of the spathiphyllum flower. Plants can be affected by pests and diseases that are no less dangerous than lack of nutrition or root gagging.

Mealybugs, spider mites and thrips are more common pests that damage plants. In this case, after identifying the source of danger:

• bushes are treated with insecticides;
• in the presence of soil pests, they are transplanted and fed.

As a preventive measure, it is reasonable to take only disinfected soil, which will help protect the bush from infection with harmful fungi.

You can talk about a disease of fungal origin in a situation where the lower leaves of the spathiphyllum turned yellow, began to dry out, and brown spots, growing, occupy the foliage in the neighborhood. If urgent measures are not taken, the disease will seize the stems and roots, causing irreparable damage to the plant.

In this case, the infected parts of the plant will have to be cut off and treated with a fungicide. It would be useful to examine the roots and the shortened stem, since the spread of the fungus may be accompanied by the reproduction of putrefactive bacteria and damage to these parts of the plant.

Spathiphyllum is not at all capricious, but only a healthy plant that receives regular competent care can please the grower with bright greenery and abundant flowering.

Video about the correct watering of the spathiphyllum

After the end of the flowering period, the inflorescences acquire a greenish color, and then they can turn green at all - for spathiphyllum this is a normal physiological process.

The greening of the bedspread of flowers may be due to an excess or lack of fertilizer, but not a disease.

Attention! Depending on the variety, spathiphyllums can have flower colors ranging from pale green to cream. After flowering, the green peduncle can be cut off so that the plant releases new ones faster.

The reasons why the spathiphyllum flower, or Women's happiness, initially blooms with green buds:

• This species has its own characteristic color of flowers.
• "Bust" or lack of nutrients, before flowering (how often and?).
• Lack of light.

The reasons why spathiphyllum flowers turn green afterwards:

Step by step instructions on what to do if the flowers turn green

1. If the flowers are not white, you should first try to change the lighting conditions: choose a well-ventilated, lit place, without drafts.
2. Feed the substrate (this should be done throughout the year: in winter - once a month, and from spring to autumn - 2-4 times a month). A slightly acidic environment is preferred.
3. Review the watering regime (do not allow the substrate to dry out).

Prevention

Do not panic when greenish-colored flowers appear, because this is most often the natural aging process of the peduncle. To avoid re-greening of flowers, it is important:

• cut off a green flower that has faded. This is done in order to preserve the nutrition of the plant;
• regularly spray the bush, water quite abundantly, but do not flood;
• protect from direct sunlight;
• maintain the temperature regime (in winter - not lower than 16ºС, optimal 20 - 25ºС);
• act very carefully when transplanting, without damaging the roots.

Important! It can be noted that the spathiphyllum has useful properties: it purifies the air of harmful impurities (benzene, acetone, formaldehyde). Some see it as a good energy - it protects against stress and emotional exhaustion.

You are watching your pet with great concern and wondering why mine? For its magnificent it is necessary to create certain conditions. We want to tell you about this in separate articles. Our experts will share with you all the secrets of caring for this beautiful plant. And it will give you many unforgettable moments of joy and pride for such a beautiful and healthy look of the flower.

Conclusion

Some time after flowering, we notice that the originally snow-white cover of the flower has become green. This is a characteristic feature of the spathiphyllum, and does not require any adjustment. They all behave this way, because this is nothing but the result of the aging of a flower. And to the question: “Why does the spathiphyllum have green flowers?” The answer is quite simple: “This is completely normal!” With proper care at home, the spathiphyllum will grow healthy and delight with its snow-white flowers.

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If the care is wrong, the flower will get sick. What is a disease in relation to it? How to determine that he is ill and that urgent measures must be taken?

Definition

Spathiphyllum disease is a process that occurs under the influence of adverse conditions of detention or due to damage by pests. The more serious it is, the more functions are disturbed (flow of water, nutrients, photosynthesis, synthesis of growth and plastic substances, respiration, etc.). The more neglected it is, the faster the flower will die.

External manifestations

In case of illness, the spathiphyllum leaves wither, turn yellow or blacken at the edges. Not always the reason is improper care. Sometimes yellowing of the leaves causes iron deficiency, and cessation of growth is observed due to nitrogen deficiency. Sometimes the plant turns yellow not only the leaves, but also the flowers. Read more about this.

What ailments most often affect this flower?

• Lack of growth due to excess light or waterlogging of the soil.
• No flowering due to transplanting into a pot larger than necessary. Spathiphyllum grows roots instead of throwing out flower stalks. If they didn’t transplant it, but there are no buds, put the pot with it on the balcony for 15 days, where t = + 12⁰С.
• Brown spots on leaves- a sign of overflow or pest damage. Black tips are a sign of a lack or abundance of moisture. The blackening of the entire leaf plate is a sign of a lack of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.
• dried ends in a young plant - a sign of adaptation to new conditions of detention. If the formed spathiphyllum suffers, watering is changed, making it more frequent.

Main reasons

Spathiphyllum is sick due to improper care. Untimely measures, improper watering and insufficiently humidified air contribute to the appearance of pests (spider mites, aphids, scale insects).

How to distinguish from pests?

When carefully examined, the plants do not or detect pests. If they are not there, it means that by visible signs (withering, yellowing, rotting of the leaves), the disease is determined and treated.

A photo

In the photo below you can see what spathiphyllum diseases look like, and then we will tell you how to deal with them.

Step by step instructions on how to cure

The course depends on which part of the flower Women's happiness is sick and how exactly it is affected.

Lack of growth

Flower growers face this problem after planting a flower. There are two reasons for the lack of growth:

1. Large diameter pot.
2. After transplantation, the spathiphyllum is placed in the shade or under the hot rays of the sun.

If the lack of growth is caused by an improperly selected container, they wait until the spathiphyllum grows a sufficient root mass. After that, it will acquire new green foliage.

Attention! To avoid problems with growth, the spathiphyllum is transplanted into a low pot slightly larger than the previous one.

When choosing a place for a pot after a transplant, they prefer one where it will be light, but without direct exposure to the sun's rays.

Darkening

In conditions of insufficient lighting in spathiphyllum. To restore the former brightness of the foliage, the pot is transferred to another, brighter place.

Women's happiness can turn black and dry leaves. In some flower growers, the tips dry up, others notice a dark stripe along the edge of the leaf, and in others, the leaves turn black completely and the border between the diseased and healthy part is clearly visible. How to act depending on the circumstances?

• If a small black edge appears on the leaf plate, the air in the room is too dry. This problem is encountered in winter when the central heating is turned on. The task of the grower: increasing the humidity of the air by means of a humidifier, spraying or moving the flower pot into a pallet with wet expanded clay.
• When most of the leaf turns black, watering is stopped, as the earth does not dry out. Spathiphyllum loves moisture, but within reasonable limits, otherwise the roots will rot.

  Reference! If the soil in the pot is 1/3 dry, the spathiphyllum is watered.

• The tips of the leaves freeze slightly if the pot is on a cold windowsill.
• Spots on the leaf plate are burns due to improper fertilization. In this case, a transplant is indispensable.

You can learn more about the blackening of the spathiphyllum.

Next is a visual video about the blackening of spathiphyllum leaves:

Yellowing leaves

• Mass cause direct sunlight. Yellow spots are a sign of sunburn.
• The discoloration of the green mass occurs due to the fact that the pot is on a window facing southwest or south. She loses her bright green color, as if fading.
• When the leaves turn yellow, but with the preservation of a bright green color with veins, you can not do without top dressing - iron chelate. Otherwise, the formation of chlorophyll will be disrupted and chlorosis will develop.

Spathiphyllum with yellow leaves is treatable. It grows well on any window, but if it faces east or north, then shading is not needed.

Drying of the leaves

This problem is caused by insufficient humidity of air masses. If you humidify the air with a humidifier or make it a rule to spray it a little bit every day, everything is back to normal. When the lower leaves dry, they are not upset: female happiness is getting old.

Read more about why the leaves of the spathiphyllum and its other parts dry up, what to do about it, read, and we told you what other diseases of the spathiphyllum leaves are.

Rot

Many flower growers miss the first symptoms of this disease. Rot appears at the base while they examine the leaves. In time, when the rot hits them, they will notice it. Usually it affects not the outer, but the reverse side of the leaf plate, and after that the roots. Rot is an incurable disease. Its appearance is prevented: diseased parts are removed during transplantation without regret.

Important! When transplanting, the entire instrument is well disinfected.

Greening flowers

This process is natural. You don't have to do anything. When the snow-white flower fades, it turns green.

How to carry out resuscitation?

1. Spathiphyllum is taken out of the pot, the roots are inspected and all rotten ones are cut off.
2. Healthy roots are washed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After that, they are treated with crushed tablets of activated carbon and wrapped in a newspaper for 24 hours.
3. While the roots are drying out, prepare a pot of new soil. In a flower shop they buy a universal soil for flowering plants. It is poured into a pot after drainage holes are made and a layer of drainage is laid.
4. The flower is carefully transplanted into a new soil, treated with Epin.
5. After transplanting, do not water it, as the soil in the pot should be slightly damp. Spathiphyllum is covered with plastic wrap or a plastic bottle on top, creating the effect of a greenhouse.
6. After transplantation with irrigation, they do not frequent, and Kornevin is added to the water for 1-1.5 months to stimulate the formation of roots.

Further care at home

After the spathiphyllum is cured, care for it as usual.

1. The temperature in the room in summer is +26, and in winter - not lower than +16 degrees Celsius.
2. The plant is sprayed in winter and summer to combat the dryness of the air masses in the room.
3. Water as the soil in the pot dries out.
4. Feed every 1-1.5 months with complex fertilizers for flowering plants.

Useful video

Below is an informative video about spatiffillum leaf diseases:

Conclusion

Spathiphyllum rarely gets sick. His illnesses in most cases are the result of improper care. If you notice the blackening of the leaves in time and identify the cause of this condition, you will be able to save it. The main thing is to take care of him properly.