Is it possible to insulate a wooden house. How to insulate a wooden house from the inside without disturbing the microclimate of the room

Our regions are characterized by a long cold season. That is why the comfort of living in them largely depends on the quality of heating the house. However, the price of servicing heating appliances is constantly increasing, and people are looking for options to save the accumulated heat for the maximum amount of time. That is why many people insulate the walls of wooden dwellings not only from the outside, but also from the inside. Today we will tell you about doing such work with your own hands.

Advantages and features of warming a wooden house from the inside

Warming a house made of wood is quite hard work that requires certain skills, time and effort. Therefore, before embarking on such work, you need to carefully weigh the pros and cons.

Previously, the walls of a wooden house were not insulated; wood-burning stoves provided a comfortable temperature in the house. However, due to the low efficiency of such devices, fuel had to be constantly added. Thus, in addition to causing significant damage to the environment, people risked burning down their house.

Among the shortcomings of warming the house from the inside, professional craftsmen, first of all, distinguish an increase in the level of moisture exposure to wood, as well as a shift in the dew point inside the wooden beams. However, this problem can be neutralized with the help of moisture protective agents.

Why is it considered better to insulate the walls inside the house:

1. By insulating your home not from the outside, but from the inside, you can preserve the original wooden facade of your home. In this case, the interior will not suffer, since the insulation layer will be hidden behind the front trim.
2. Unlike wall insulation from the outside, internal insulation can be carried out without the help of high-rise installation professionals. A tall goat and your patience will be enough here.
3. If the vapor barrier layer is made of a film with low permeability, then, when installed outside, it can disturb the microclimate of the wood and cause it to soak.

Thus, the insulation of a wooden building from the inside has its advantages and disadvantages. After reviewing them, you can determine the relevance of this repair in your case.

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside

How to insulate the walls of the dwelling from the inside - this question worries many owners of suburban dwellings. To do this, you can use a variety of materials. It is important to choose such a heater so that it is safe for health and suits you in terms of price and quality.

There is an interesting way to insulate wooden walls inside the house. With it, tow, twine, a special compound or glue, are applied between the seams of the bars. This option is used when the front finish in the house is not expected.

There is a large amount of insulation suitable for wall decoration. We suggest you familiarize yourself with the most popular options. And decide on their pros and cons.

Wall insulation:

1. Mineral wool is the most environmentally friendly and safe option for insulating a house from the inside. However, this method also has disadvantages, these include: the impossibility of insulating a house without erecting a crate and a good moisture-absorbing ability.
2. Polyfoam is also used as a heater due to its low thermal conductivity and low price. However, such a heater can emit substances hazardous to health and simply burns beautifully.
3. Polyurethane foam is a relatively new way. To use it, you need special equipment and the help of a professional.

For the insulation of the walls of the house, these options are most often chosen. Each of them is attractive in its own way. However, it is best to choose mineral wool.

Before warming the house from the inside, we suggest looking at a few tips that will allow you to do this in the most efficient way. These instructions are based on the experience of professional craftsmen.

A wooden house cannot be insulated in the first year after its construction. This time is enough for the building to settle and take on a constant size.

Wall insulation has some nuances. You will have to spend a little time studying them, but as a reward you will receive a well-insulated building.

Tips for warming your home with your own hands:

1. The walls of the wooden structure, insulated on both sides, can rot and become damp. A well-designed ventilation system will help prevent this problem.
2. Even if it seems to you that the wall freezes through only in one place, all the walls in the house need to be insulated at once.
3. The places behind the batteries must be insulated with foil material. This will allow more heat to enter the room.
4. Leave some space between the insulation and the wall. So the thermal insulation of the walls will not affect their humidity.
5. Before starting insulation work, treat the walls with a moisture-repellent compound. So you can avoid the side effects of internal insulation.

It is necessary to insulate the walls of the building from the inside correctly. Otherwise, you will not only not be able to ensure the preservation of heat, but also provoke its faster loss.

Insulation of wooden walls from the inside

Warming of a building made of wood occurs in several stages. The progress of work with different insulation will look different. Since at the moment mineral wool is considered the most common insulation, we will tell you how to insulate the walls of a house with your own hands.

Stages of warming the walls of the house with your own hands:

1. The first step is to clean the wooden walls from contamination. The old trim layer, if any, is removed. A bare and clean wall is treated with antiseptics.
2. Next, you need to caulk the walls. If this is a new house, then caulking occurs a year after the construction, if they lived in it, then after three. Caulking involves stuffing material, such as jute, into the gap between the logs. The work is done with a thin chisel.
3. Waterproofing is being installed. To do this, a vapor barrier sheet is taken, and applied with a rough side to the logs, after which it is nailed with a construction stapler. The joints between the segments of such a canvas should overlap by 15 cm, or glued with tape.
4. Now it's time to do the crate. To do this, you need to take a wooden beam 5X5 cm, and make a crate out of it, arranging the elements in increments of 50-60 centimeters.
5. Layers of mineral wool are inserted into the resulting crate. They are attached with a construction stapler. After installing mineral wool, it must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.
6. At the last stage, the structure is sewn up with drywall. After that comes the face trim.

According to the same principle, the warming of the year occurs. Of course, we presented a brief scheme for warming the house, but in principle, all the necessary steps can be done using it.

Everything about wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house: what material is better to use, the need for internal insulation, preparation and lathing of walls, how to properly insulate with mineral wool inside.

According to the masters, the external insulation of a wooden house is much more preferable than the internal one. This is related to the concept of dew point.

The formation of condensate on the walls inside the building under the insulation will go deep into them, while on the outside it will not go further than the hydro - or thermal insulation and will not reach the wood.

Wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house is possible only if other options are not acceptable for any reason.

The need for internal insulation

Before deciding on such interior finishes, you should consider what they can be fraught with:

1. Violation of the natural "breathing" of the walls, which will have to be restored by creating ventilation.
2. Changing the microclimate in the rooms due to high humidity.
3. Reducing the area of ​​each room.

If such good reasons are not a reason to change your mind, then you should look for the positive aspects of internal insulation and focus on them:

1. The ability to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands at any time of the year, devoting as much time to this as possible.
2. A beautiful view of the facade, especially if it is made of logs, can be preserved in its original form.
3. Such work requires easier installation, which even a beginner can do.
4. The internal insulation of the walls of a wooden house is several times cheaper than the external one.

Modern materials and technologies make it possible to carry out construction and finishing works of any complexity and quite at a decent price. Before deciding on any action, you should be well acquainted with what materials the modern market offers and answer the question, what is the best way to insulate the walls of a wooden house inside.

Of course, the choice of material directly depends on the qualities that the building will require from it. If this is a frame house, then these will be some properties, and for a log house made of thick logs - others.

Today, manufacturers of heaters offer the following types of materials:

All of these materials have a place to be in the modern construction market, but the choice is up to the consumer, to which of them he entrusts the safety and warmth of his home.

Wall preparation and lathing

As always, the insulation of walls in a wooden house from the inside (the video will tell about this) begins with preparing the walls for work:

1. Even the best wood can shrink at the joints when it shrinks. They should be sealed with sealant or in another way.
2. It is imperative that as a preventive measure it is necessary to carry out bio- and fire protection of the walls. Since thermal insulation is mounted for years, this will save it under any unforeseen circumstances.

   To protect the house from decay, without fail when laying thermal insulation, you need to make an air gap between it and the wall. This does not apply to walls made of logs.

3. Caulking of walls is necessary if they are made of timber. Jute is well suited for this, as the cheapest and proven by many generations of builders material.

In no case should the preparation of the walls be ignored, as this may affect the durability of the thermal insulation and its quality.

Owners should think not only about how to insulate the walls of a wooden house inside, but also how to do it. It is imperative to make a crate. It is because of it that, first of all, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room inside decreases, but it also gives the entire structure a shape and the necessary stability.

For the crate, a square bar with a section of 50 mm is used, and the step depends on the size of the insulation. It is important to install the bars so that the material fits tightly into the formed cells, if it is mineral wool, or they are exactly sized for expanded polystyrene boards.

Prior to installation, the bars must be treated with fire-fighting and antifungal agents. All structural elements are attached to the wall with screws.

After the crate is installed in each room, you can proceed directly to solving the issue of how to insulate the walls inside a wooden house.

Wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house

mineral wool

As a rule, mineral wool in a roll or in the form of a “mat” is used to insulate walls from the inside. To cope with the first, you will need work in 4 hands, while the second can be handled on your own.

Laying is carried out from the floor to the ceiling, observing a tight fit so that the seams are not visible. If there are any gaps, then they need to be repaired, and then proceed with laying the next layer of the “pie” - the vapor barrier layer. It is necessary rather to protect the mineral wool from the effects of the external environment of the room than the walls.

The vapor barrier should be overlapped with a stapler so that there are no seams, and if there are any, then they must immediately be covered with tape.

After the work done, it is necessary to mount another crate, but opposite to the first. It is on it that the finish coating will be attached.

Styrofoam

This material can also be attached to the crate, but there is an easier way that does not take up much living space. The prepared and processed wall must be smeared with a layer of glue and put foam sheets on it in dense rows.

After the adhesive base is completely dry, the plates can be fixed with nails, cover the gaps and proceed with the finishing.

In conclusion, the following conclusions can be drawn:

1. Internal insulation is not desirable, but is acceptable if necessary.
2. There are materials suitable for these works.
3. Before proceeding with the insulation, you need to properly prepare the walls.

If there is not enough knowledge on the composition of the material and the correctness of its installation, you should consult with a specialist so that after years you will not regret the wasted money. Even such a simple, at first glance, work as caulking the walls requires skills and attention, and without creating ventilation, the “life” of the building can be significantly reduced. All this should be thought about before starting the insulation of the internal walls of a wooden house.

A comfortable temperature regime at home is one of the important conditions for the health of its inhabitants. Insulation works are carried out to ensure a normal environment in the room. Warming is a necessary stage in the construction of a house, it is better to perform it at this stage, but you can do it later.

What you need to know about the insulation of the walls of a wooden house inside

The owners of private wooden houses know how important it is to insulate the house. It depends on how comfortable living in it will be. Whatever building material the building is built from, from timber or logs, it needs to be insulated, especially considering how severe frosts are in our country.

A professional does not need to talk about materials, technologies - he already knows everything, but what should an amateur pay attention to if he wants to do it himself from the inside of a wooden house?

There are two main technologies for insulating the walls of a house - external insulation and internal insulation. Each has its own characteristics, pros and cons.

With external insulation, the material is located outside, which allows you to save the facade of the building from adverse environmental factors. In addition, space is saved.

Insulation from the inside is chosen if, for example, it is impossible to “touch” the facade or for some reason it is impossible to make a wooden house.

Before proceeding with the insulation of a log house or the insulation of a log house, it is necessary to determine how to arrange waterproofing so that there is no condensation.

When the insulation is located inside, the outer wall freezes through, condensation forms. So think about waterproofing first. You can, for example, use a plastic film when attaching insulation to the wall - it is suitable in many cases.

How to insulate a wooden house

The modern construction market provides a lot. Among them, the most popular are those that are both not very expensive and at the same time effective. Therefore, it became available to insulate the walls inside a wooden house even to an inexperienced person.

Penoplex, or white polystyrene foam, consists of air and foamed polystyrene. It is produced in the form of plates of different thicknesses and sizes. Easy to use, thanks to which it is in demand in the building materials market.

Styrofoam Specifications:

• Low thermal conductivity;
• High noise absorption;
• Does not create conditions for the development of a humid environment;
• Long service life;
• Does not emit harmful substances in operation;
• Resistant to temperature changes;
• Light weight, which is convenient for transportation and installation;
• Does not ignite;
• Does not create a comfortable environment for the reproduction of fungi and mold;
• It is inexpensive.

The technology for insulating a house with foam plastic is as follows:

• First you need to prepare the wall, clean it of dirt and dust, for this purpose you can use an ordinary broom. If there are cracks, they should be repaired with putty.
• The surface is primed with acrylic - this prevents the formation of fungal colonies.
• When the primer dries, the polystyrene boards are glued. Glue is applied to the wall and to the plate, after which the plate must be pressed against the wall.
• Work begins from the bottom, the plates are glued end-to-end in a checkerboard pattern. The seams must be processed using mounting foam.
• When the glue dries, each slab should be attached using dowels in the corners and in the center for greater fixation.
• A membrane film or polyethylene for waterproofing is covered on top, at the joints it is glued with adhesive tape.

• Next is the reinforcing mesh.
• After that, you can do decorative design.

It has several varieties, among which the most popular is stone wool, which is produced by remelting volcanic stone rocks. Compared with glass wool, it has more advantages.

Basalt insulation characteristics:

• Safety during installation;
• Good indicator of insulation;
• High noise absorption;
• High vapor permeability;
• Does not emit toxic substances;
• Does not ignite;
• Resistant to temperature changes;
• Does not rot, does not grow moldy;
• Long serves.

The technology of internal insulation of the walls of the house with mineral wool is as follows.

• The wall is cleared of dirt. All cracks are treated with putty. If there is mold or fungus, this area should be well cleaned, washed, dried and treated with antifungal drugs.

• Attached to the wall.

• A crate of vertical wooden beams is stuffed. At the same time, it is important that the step of the crate corresponds to the width of the mineral wool roll, for tight fastening of the insulation to the wall.
• The mineral wool slab is mounted end-to-end between the battens of the crate. The seams are sealed with adhesive tape.

• Next, a membrane vapor-waterproofing film is stretched. It must be glued at the joints and ensure that the seal is not broken.
• This layer is fixed to the crate with wooden planks.
• Interior decoration of the walls of the house is in progress.

Mineral wool insulation of the walls of the house from the inside video:

Foil heaters

It is a high-tech foil-coated material that, while not itself a thermal insulator, effectively reflects heat back into the home. There are a lot of varieties: penofol, with a self-adhesive coating, one-sided and two-sided, isover, etc.

The technology for insulating a log house from the inside using foil material is briefly as follows.

• The surface of the wall is cleaned of dirt and dust. All cracks and crevices must be filled with putty.
• A wooden crate of bars is attached to the wall, the pitch of which corresponds to the width of the roll of this material.

• The foil coating is placed end to end between the lathing bars, it is necessary to ensure that the metallized layer is directed inside the building. The joints must be glued with aluminized adhesive tape.

Unlike other insulation options, the use of foil material allows you not to install a waterproofing film. Therefore, after its installation, you can begin the interior decoration of the walls of the house.

Differences in the methods of insulating the walls of the house

In construction, both methods of thermal insulation are used - external insulation and insulation inside. However, the insulation of a wooden house from the inside has more disadvantages and is performed more often if the insulation from the outside cannot be performed for various reasons. Installation of insulation cannot be called a very difficult process, if you have basic construction skills, you can do it quite quickly.

But for a person who does not have professional knowledge, experience and skills, at first it will be difficult to deal with the intricacies of the work. Of course, it will take time to study all the nuances of warming a wooden house from the inside with your own hands. But with what pleasure all family members will return to a cozy and comfortable home!

Having bought or built a wooden country house, its owners may soon face the need to insulate it. There can be quite a few reasons for the low temperature inside a wooden house. Often this can be low-quality wood and insufficient thickness of the logs. Therefore, in order to somehow correct the situation, it will be necessary to insulate the wooden walls of the house. Work on the insulation of the walls of a wooden house is not particularly difficult, the main thing is to understand the technology of warming wooden walls.

Features of wooden wall insulation

Wood, due to its structure, has a number of unique qualities and requires a special approach in operation. The main feature of a material such as wood is its ability to "breathe". This means that wooden walls can themselves regulate the microclimate in the house. You should also remember the natural origin of logs, which are prone to mold and decay. It is the naturalness of wood that imposes certain restrictions on the materials and methods of warming a wooden house.

Let's start with materials for warming a wooden house. They must have the following characteristics:

• high vapor permeability. Large or the same as wood 0.06 Mg/(m*h*Pa);
• have high moisture resistance;
• have high fire safety;
• be resistant to fungus and mold.

According to these basic requirements, the following materials are most suitable for insulating wooden walls:

• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• sawdust granules.

In addition, facing bricks, aerated concrete blocks, and siding can also be used to insulate a wooden house. Of course, a stone in combination with a heater will create the most effective thermal insulation, but then you will have to sacrifice the external beauty of a wooden house.

Important! But it is categorically not recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, polyurethane foam, various sealants or polystyrene for insulating wooden walls. These materials have extremely low vapor permeability, which in turn is fraught with the appearance of mold and fungi on the wooden walls, and ultimately rot.

When preparing for the insulation of wooden walls, special attention should be paid to the technology of creating a heat-insulating layer. The main rule that should be observed in this case is as follows: the vapor transmission capacity of each subsequent layer must be higher than the previous one, in the direction from the interior to the street. According to this simple truth, the thermal insulation of a wooden house is created, which is a multilayer cake. The structure of such a pie for wall insulation from the outside consists of battens and counter battens, thermal insulation, wind and moisture insulation. The internal insulation of wooden walls also obeys this rule, with the only difference being that vapor barrier is used instead of windproofing.

Important! If you can’t decide how best to insulate wooden walls, from the inside or outside, then the answer is definitely the same - you should choose the insulation of wooden walls from the outside. This is due to several reasons:

• First, the interior living space of the house will be preserved.
• Secondly, due to the properties of wood to accumulate and release moisture, external insulation is the most effective.
• Thirdly, the external insulation of wooden walls is much easier to create.
• Fourthly, with external insulation, the number of cold bridges is minimal.

Of course, the insulation of a wooden wall from the inside is also possible, but only if it is impossible to create external insulation.

Calculation of the insulation layer

Calculation of the optimal thickness of the insulation layer is one of the most important stages in the insulation of any house, especially a wooden one. This task must be approached with all responsibility, since an error in the calculations will at least entail unnecessary financial costs for insulation, and at the maximum will lead to damage to the wooden walls. Therefore, if you are not friends with formulas and calculations, it is better to contact specialists on this issue. We will consider an example of a calculation with comments and explanations, by which you can determine which layer of thermal insulation will be required for your home.

To perform calculations, you will need to refer to SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings", as well as TSN (territorial building codes). These regulatory documents provide all the necessary initial data for calculations and the calculation methodology. The calculations themselves are based on the thermal resistance of materials, which is constant and taken separately for each region. For example, in the Moscow region, this figure is 4.15 (m2 * ° C) / W. It is also worth noting that the calculations should take into account the thermal resistance (R) of each material in the heat-insulating cake and sum them up. To perform calculations, the thermal conductivity of the materials used and their thickness are needed.

The formula for calculating thermal resistance is as follows: R = P/K.

Where P is the thickness of the material, K is the thermal conductivity of the material. For example, a wooden wall is finished with facing bricks on the outside, and a layer of mineral wool is placed between them. Then the total heat transfer resistance of such a wall will be equal to the sum of the resistances of each of the materials.

Based on the above formula, we will make a calculation for the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. The formula for calculating the following is P=R*K. We take data on thermal conductivity from the table of thermal conductivity of materials or from the packaging of the material used, and thermal resistance from regulatory documents.

For example, for Moscow and the region, the resistance to heat transfer is 4.15 (m2 * ° C) / W. If we insulate a wooden wall 20 cm thick with siding with mineral wool, then for wood the heat resistance is 0.806 (m2 * ° C) / W, and for mineral wool 0.045 (m2 * ° C) / W. Accordingly, the insulation layer must have a thermal resistance R=4.15-0.806-0.045=3.299 m2*°C.

Now we take the coefficient of thermal conductivity of mineral wool 0.41 W / m * K and multiply by the thermal resistance P \u003d 3.299 * 0.041 \u003d 0.135 m. Similarly, you can calculate the layer thickness for any other insulation in different regions of the country.

It remains to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200binsulation and purchase all the materials necessary for this. First of all, it is mineral wool itself, wind and moisture protection, as well as vapor barrier. In addition, wooden slats with a thickness of 130x50 mm, a height equal to the height of the insulated wall, and fasteners for them will be required. As fasteners for wooden slats, you can use ordinary long screws or metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws. The number of rails is taken on the basis that the distance between them should be 2 - 5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Fasteners are purchased at the rate of 1 - 2 attachment points per 1 linear meter. We also purchase slats 50x30 mm or 50x20 mm for counter battens. The total number of such rails is taken from the calculation that the frame of the counter-lattice consists of 3 horizontal rows around the entire perimeter of the house.

As already noted, the insulation of wooden walls from the outside is the easiest and most affordable way to insulate. Warming of a wooden house should begin in a year or two. This is important, since the tree shrinks during this time, which leads to a change in the height of the building. In addition, during shrinkage, new cracks will be found that will have to be well caulked.

Do-it-yourself warming of wooden walls from the outside is carried out in various ways. Consider the most common - mineral wool insulation with siding trim. The work takes place in several stages:

1. We check the walls for cracks and the tightness of the logs or beams to each other.

2. If necessary, we caulk all the cracks found.

3. First, we measure the total length of the wall from edge to edge. Then we break it into equal intervals 2-5 cm shorter than the mineral wool mat.

4. We apply markings under the crate on the wall.

5. We prepare the bars for the crate by cutting them to the required length.

6. First, we fix the bars around the perimeter of the wall. One above the foundation, one under the canopy and two along the edges.

7. In the resulting box, we first place and fix the frame around the window and door openings, and then the vertical bars of the crate according to the markup.

Important! If the length of one bar is not enough to cover the height of the wall, then the missing pieces must be placed in a checkerboard pattern in each subsequent rack. For example, the 1st rack consists of a long part from the bottom, a short part from the top, the 2nd rack - a short bar from the bottom, a long one from the top.

8. Now we take mineral wool mats and insert them between the frame posts. Since the distance between the bars is slightly less than the width of the mat, the mineral wool will be held inside in a spacer. To reduce the number of cold bridges, mineral wool can be laid in two layers. To do this, it is enough to buy mats of smaller thickness. For example, with a total insulation layer thickness of 13 cm, mats with a thickness of 50 mm or 70 mm can be used. In this case, each subsequent layer is laid with an offset relative to the first.

9. On top of the insulation we lay a layer of moisture and wind insulation from a superdiffusion membrane. We fix it to the frame with a stapler.

10. We fill the counter crate, thus creating a ventilation gap of 30 mm between the insulation and the finishing material.

11. At the end, the facade is finished with siding.

If it is planned to finish with facing bricks, then it is better to use ecowool granules or sawdust granules as a heater. These materials, when backfilled between the wooden wall and the cladding, will fill all the voids, thereby creating a reliable thermal insulation protection. Insulation of wooden walls outside with mineral wool with facing bricks is similar in technology to siding. The difference lies in the finishing materials used and the obligatory presence of a brick foundation.

As already noted, the insulation of wooden walls from the inside is quite rare. Usually this method of insulation is chosen when it is not possible to make external insulation. The technology for performing work is in many ways similar to external insulation, but there are a number of differences. Let us consider in more detail the stages and features of the work when insulating wooden walls from the inside:

1. After shrinking at home, we check them for cracks and carefully caulk them.

2. We drill small holes in the crowns for ventilation.

3. We mark the places for installing the counter-lattice.

4. We cut the bars for the counter-lattice and fix them to the wall. This will create a ventilated gap between the wall and the insulation, which in turn will keep the walls from rotting from the inside.

Important! Since the insulation will not be located over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall, the floor, internal walls and ceiling will be natural cold bridges. To block them, you will need to insulate the surface of the ceiling and floor. How it looks can be seen in the photo showing the internal insulation of wooden walls.

5. We sheathe the counter-lattice with a superdiffusion membrane and fix it to the bars with a stapler.

6. We mark the places for installing the main crate. We start from the corners and bring them to the center. At the same time, do not forget about door and window openings. In them, the bars will frame the opening around the perimeter.

7. First, we fix the bars along the perimeter of the wall, and then we install the vertical ones and into the openings. We take the distance between the bars 2 - 5 cm less than the insulation mats.

8. We take the insulation and insert it between the laths of the crate. As in the case of external insulation, we lay out the insulation in two layers with an offset to each other. Thus, we will eliminate possible cold bridges.

9. We lay a vapor barrier on top of the insulation and fix it to the racks with a stapler.

10. After the installation of the thermal insulation of the walls is completed, we insulate the ceiling and floor. This will allow you to get wall insulation behind the floor and eliminate possible cold bridges.

11. We sheathe the walls with drywall and carry out the finishing.

The method described above for insulating a wooden wall from the inside involves the use of mineral wool mats. In addition to it, you can also use ecowool granules or sawdust granules. But unlike external insulation, the granules will have to be blown into the space between the wall and the vapor barrier film, which is somewhat inconvenient and requires special equipment.

Performing work on the insulation of wooden walls requires only skillful handling of the tool. Of course, comparing external and internal insulation, one can note the complexity and exactingness of performing work inside the house. Therefore, if you do not have sufficient experience, it is better to opt for external insulation, and if it is impossible, turn to more experienced craftsmen.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside using, among other things, is a necessary set of measures in order to increase the level of comfort when living in it.

When insulating the roof, ceiling, attic and floor, in most cases one technology is used. In this case, thermal insulation can be provided with mineral wool or foam.

1 Insulation of the walls of a country house from the inside

Before you start warming the walls in a wooden house with your own hands, you should thoroughly clean all surfaces from dust and dirt. If the house is made using timber, then thermal insulation can be provided with foam or mineral wool.

Before this, the wooden surfaces of the country house, including the surface of the ceiling, the ribs of the timber, the walls of the attic, and the inner surface of the roof, must be subjected to detailed treatment using a special insect repellent emulsion. All insulation work of a country wooden house, brought inside with your own hands, consists of:

• Caulking of cracks in the walls of the attic, the surface of the ceiling and inside the roof, as with;
• Creation of a vapor barrier for the floor using timber;
• Lathing installation;
• Laying insulation and ensuring the sealing of the roof of a country house;
• Creation of a ventilation system between the walls of the attic;
• Internal finishing work on the preparation of beams, ceilings and roofs.

In addition, with the internal insulation of the walls of a wooden country house made of timber with your own hands, you need to carefully monitor the condition of the electrical wiring.

For example, if the walls of a country house are made using timber, and the technology involves wiring surface wiring on the walls of the attic, then it does not have to be separated from the wall surface.

To do this, it is enough to hide the wiring in special decorative casings. Inside them, the wiring will be safe.

After the walls are cleaned and the thermal insulation is prepared, it is necessary to caulk all the existing cracks.

Caulking is carried out not only on the surface of the walls of the attic, but also in the inner surface of the roof. It is known that in the case when a house is built using a beam, the floor, attic walls and the inner surface of the roof are re-caulked only a year after the building is put into operation. .

In the case when people immediately began to live in a house with a timber, drying the ceiling, floor and inner surface of the roof will be much slower.

Based on this, it makes sense to carry out the second caulking in at least 2-3 years. By the way, for caulking the walls of a house made of timber with your own hands, in most cases, jute fiber is used.

After that, you should proceed to the insulation of the walls with foam or minata. The inner surface of the ceiling and roof (in the attic) can also be insulated with foam plastic with your own hands.

2 Creating a vapor barrier

When insulating a wooden house with your own hands, an extremely important point is the creation of a vapor barrier inside the walls of the attic.

This is because the space inside the wooden base of the attic wall consists of those bars that are locked between two heat insulators.

In this case, the humidity level in the rooms will certainly increase, which will lead to the appearance of a "thermos effect" in the space from the ceiling to the roof.

This will lead to the fact that the entire structure will stop "breathing". Excess moisture is eliminated by ventilation.

The main thing is not to allow the tree to become damp, while slow decay of the entire structure may begin. To avoid this, before starting the installation of a heat insulator, the entire surface of the wall to be insulated must be equipped with a vapor-water-proofing film.

When carrying out installation work, as in the case of creating, associated with the crate, on load-bearing walls made using timber, an additional metal profile is installed.

This is especially true when finishing and vapor barrier will be made with the participation of moisture-resistant drywall.

After that, a strip of mineral wool is located inside, in the space between the bars. And its layers will join the base of the wall with the help of anchors equipped with enlarged round caps. A second layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation.

2.1 Creation of ventilation insulation of walls with foam plastic

A well-designed ventilation system should not have direct outdoor hoods in its communications.

The most suitable option is to combine the system into one circuit through the communications of the ceiling and the attic.

This is done through ventilation ducts. Any axial fan with a low or medium power rating can be used as a supercharger.

When the ventilation system is activated, using it in the winter season for half an hour, you can influence the parameter of optimal air humidity.

Inside, the second layer of vapor barrier film is attached to the bars with staples of a construction stapler. After the bar is installed, it should be sheathed with a clapboard made of wood.

This will give the room a certain degree of aesthetic appeal and insulate its contour. In addition, it is desirable to finish the room inside with a vertically located planken.

In addition, the walls can be insulated from the inside with foam. It makes sense to start installation work with the selection of suitable sheet sizes. They can be much thinner than with the behavior of external insulation work. Styrofoam is different:

• Simplicity and ease of installation;
• Low degree of thermal conductivity;
• High soundproofing characteristics;
• Long operational period.

When the internal walls of a wooden house are insulated with such material as penofol, convection and significant heat loss through the cracks will stop forever due to the fact that the caulking was produced poorly.

If the timber will have a relatively small thickness, then frost formation will not be observed in the corners and on the walls of the house in the winter season. When using foam, the space of the room from floor to ceiling will warm up quickly enough.

2.2 Floor insulation

In addition to a set of obvious advantages, in the event that the wooden floor is insulated, the level of heat loss in the house will significantly (up to 20 percent) decrease. That's an example.

The simplest and most effective method of floor insulation is associated with the use of mineral wool as a heater.

The technology of insulation using mineral wool is quite simple and not expensive. Particularly relevant is the insulation of the floor with mineral wool in the case when it is mounted directly on the surface of the soil.

The choice of a type of heat insulator directly correlates with the features of the arrangement of the floor. So, if the installed insulation will not be subjected to regular technical loads, it is recommended to opt for a mineral wool with a density of 50 kg / m3.

If the load on the slabs is carried out with a periodic frequency, then the limiting density of the min-slab can reach 160 kg / m3.

In this case, the material is not mounted with fasteners, but is laid freely. Another option for warming a wooden floor is associated with the use of foam.

First you will need to dismantle the old coating. After that, you need to take care of installing a waterproofing layer.

For this purpose, polyethylene can be used. After that, you can start applying penoplex, which is characterized by low hygroscopicity.

In some cases, it is possible to insulate the floor of a wooden house using foam boards. You can use for this one of its varieties - expanded polystyrene, which is a fairly relevant heat-insulating material.

The whole process begins with the fact that a gravel cushion is formed on the ground, the thickness of which can reach 30-40 centimeters. This layer is thoroughly compacted, after which cleaned sand is poured on top with a layer of 10 centimeters.

2.3 Ceiling insulation

Currently, despite the colossal abundance of insulating materials on the modern construction market, a large number of homeowners prefer to insulate the floors in a wooden house the old fashioned way - with sawdust.

This method is primarily characterized by its high environmental friendliness parameter and relative cheapness.

However, the work associated with the presented material is quite troublesome. In addition, this method requires some preliminary preparation.

For example, sawdust must be carefully treated with an antiseptic before starting insulation in order to avoid the appearance of mold.

Sawdust should also be sprayed with a flame retardant in order to improve their fire-resistant qualities, as with. Before backfilling, this material must undergo a long drying.

And in order to prevent rodents from climbing into the insulation, it must be diluted with fluffy lime. This mixture must be poured into the voids formed.

Moreover, its layer can reach a height of 20 centimeters. For floor insulation, modern materials such as mineral wool, polyplex, expanded clay and foil-type polyethylene foam can be used.

It is not bad to use such alternative heaters as glassine. It can cover foam boards.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside - layout of materials

When choosing one or another material, special attention is paid to the financial capabilities of the owner of a wooden house. Based on this, you should decide on the price segment in which this or that heater is located.

2.4 How to insulate a wooden house from a bar? (video)