INSTRUCTIONS AND PROPHECIES OF THE Blessed MOTHER ALIPIA GOLOSEEVSKY, Kyiv...
From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - a step-by-step instruction has been prepared for you. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and designs in general. You will also learn about accessories for working at heights.
Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders, which serves for lifting and working at height. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is traumatic.
Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements apply to scaffolding:
- Reliability. The system of elements must withstand the weight of workers and material in motion with a margin.
- Manufacturability. It implies the convenience of assembly / disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or an entry-level specialist.
- Thrift. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
- Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wood - the ability to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.
Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. It is unprofitable to purchase them for home use, only rent is possible with a large amount of work (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction, it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the building structure.
Standard wood scaffolding
The design of these scaffolds came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming a frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have been improved. They deserve special attention.
Basic elements of wooden scaffolding
1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes
Racks. Good quality edged board vertical supports. They perceive the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Rack Requirements:
- Edged board of the 1st grade of any breed.
- Board thickness - not less than 30 mm, width - not less than 100 mm.
- Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board must not be broken, cracked, rotten, crooked, of variable section, with excessive wane or holes.
- The board must not be infested with insects.
Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splicing of the racks. Elements should be butt-jointed, not "overlap" and clamped on both sides.
Crossbars. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to the requirements for racks. One additional requirement: the use of spliced cross members without additional support is unacceptable.
Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross bars. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - board guides, sheet material on top. Continuous flooring and run-up is allowed.
Braces. Diagonal links connecting racks of different rows. It is allowed to use rails, slabs. It is advisable to install braces of maximum length in order to connect the largest number of racks.
Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to avoid deflection from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.
Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding
There is a set of general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from the requirements of safety and the experience of high-altitude masters:
- The foundation must be solid. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
- The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
- For each node - at least 3 attachment points. With multi-point mounting - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
- Use powerful self-tapping screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the back side.
- Always install railings on the inside of the rack.
- Use a frontal board (fence at the flooring).
- Racks at the interface must be trimmed.
- The spacing of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.
Scaffold assembly
To create a wooden scaffold structure, you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.
Operating procedure:
- The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal step (1.5 m) and get the number of racks.
- We collect the "envelope" - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them in this place with a cross bar.
Attention! The angle between the upright and the cross member must be 90°. Skews can deform the frame under load.
- We sew the frame with a diagonal.
- We prepare the required number of "envelopes".
- Install two "envelopes" vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at the maximum height so that they stand without support.
- Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the floorboard so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
- Place the deck board on the cross members and fix it. Reinforce bracing.
- Fix the flooring on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
- Install the rest of the "envelopes" and flooring in the same way.
Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or flooring sheets must fall on the crossbar!
- Install handrail and front board.
- If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
- If the height is more than 2 tiers and you need to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then connect the edge of this board with the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.
Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - the dismantling of the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.
Devices for wooden scaffolding
Steel Crossbar - Bracket
This element greatly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross section of the board.
triangular bracket
Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows the scaffold to be attached directly to the wall. For a flooring device based on it, several boards for a ladder are enough. But at the same time, for rearrangement, you have to dismantle it. Mounting something from the bottom up is not possible. The most dangerous type of high-altitude scaffolding. When working, special skill and caution are required.
Bricklayer Express Scaffolding
They are created from pallets on which bricks were brought. For flooring, as a rule, a rafter board is used. It does not require sawing the material, while they are quite reliable, if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.
Bricklayer scaffolding on video
Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time for strengthening can turn into unpleasant, and sometimes serious consequences.
A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at height and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.
Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.
Forests they call structures quite long and high. Scaffolding "goats" is usually called low portable tables, which can accommodate no more than two people.
If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or finish the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for work. For our part, we will talk about how to make scaffolding strong and stable with our own hands, saving a lot of money on renting them.
Scaffolding design options
Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their structures contain the same elements for their intended purpose:
- Vertical racks (perceive the workload and transfer it to the ground).
- Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
- Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
- Flooring (boards knocked together, serving as a working platform for builders).
- Stubborn cuts (prevent scaffolding from overturning).
- Railings (protect workers from falling).
- Ladders (used for lifting and descending from working platforms).
The material for the assembly of scaffolds and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal.. A wooden structure is cheaper than steel, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only good for firewood.
Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wooden scaffolding, but has no restrictions on the number of use cycles. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build up additional tiers in the course of work, increasing the working height.
If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one object, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.
Features of the manufacture of wooden and metal scaffolding with their own hands
Before starting the preparation of parts for assembly, a schematic drawing should be made and the main dimensions of the structure should be marked on it.
There is no need to fantasize here, since the optimal dimensions of scaffolding have already been determined by construction practice:
- the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters;
- distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
- working platform width - 1 meter.
It has been established by ergonomics that maximum productivity is achieved when the hands of the builder during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from ground level. This will save you from having to put together low building scaffolds.
It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.
If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:
- For cutting racks and thrust braces - a bar with a section of 10x10 cm or boards at least 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick.
- Spacers, ties and railings can be made from a "thirty" edged board.
- For the flooring and lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.
When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, it should be remembered that nails are more difficult to remove when disassembling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from the wood with a screwdriver. However, they work worse than nails for breaking, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, it is possible to recommend the use of nails, and for extended and high structures, self-tapping screws.
Scaffolding from boards is assembled in this order:
- on a flat platform, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards cut to size according to the height of the scaffolding;
- racks are connected with horizontal jumpers, on which the working flooring will be laid;
- two resulting frames of the "ladder" are placed vertically one against the other and connect them with diagonal and horizontal ties;
- flooring from boards is placed on horizontal lintels and fastened;
- forests are fixed on two side cuts-stops;
- railings are nailed to the racks, a ladder is attached and fixed for lifting.
If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be connected to each other with wide sections of boards, stuffing them into adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before driving.
Scaffolding from a profile pipe their design is similar to wood. The difference between them lies in the use of adapters. They are used to increase the "number of storeys" of a metal structure.
A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:
- Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and jumpers (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
- Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters for diagonal screeds).
- Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm for the manufacture of adapters and thrust bearings). For the manufacture of railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
- Steel plates 10x10 cm 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
- 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal braces to each other and attaching them to the frame posts.
The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:
- scaffold racks are rigidly fixed to the assembly shield (OSB sheet) with clamps (high accuracy when working with metal is a very important factor);
- horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
- adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks by 5 cm and fixed by welding;
- having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly shield, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the shield with clamps;
- the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal stretch marks are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled in them;
- tightening the two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and mark the places for drilling holes;
- screeds are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
- holes for bolted connections are drilled on racks and railings;
- plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe segments;
- the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
- on the side jumpers lay the flooring from the board "forty".
Useful advice: to exclude longitudinal displacement of the flooring, steel corners 30x30 mm must be screwed to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.
Diagonal ties should be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.
If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of the section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for fastening the profile pipe of the thrust slope, which protects the structure from falling.
In the lower and upper part of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when building scaffolding in length).
How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photo, video. At the stage of construction, repair work and maintenance of a private house, sometimes you have to work at height. With the help of a conventional ladder, it is not always convenient to carry out work, and sometimes it is completely impossible.
The way out of this situation will be scaffolding with your own hands.
General information
Scaffolding made of metal will be many times more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, as it is cheaper. Everyone can work with wood, and all you need is nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, or a hammer. As you can see, the set of tools is small and can be found in everyone's house, and if something is not there, it will not take a lot of money to buy the right tool.
Metal is more difficult in this regard. To make metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a certain skill, as well as a welding machine and at least a basic understanding of how to properly weld seams. It is for this reason that in 85% of cases forests are made of wood.
materials
It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short time, but the manufacture requires the use of high quality wood and with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.
Scaffolding can also be made from them, but before that you will need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go to the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to add two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).
When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. A board is laid on the posts, and then they stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak points, it will crack or even break. If it lasts, you can use it.
Now about the thickness. The thickness of the boards for scaffolding should be chosen according to what the structure will be, the distance between the racks and the expected load. The only thing to note is that boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used for flooring and racks, and boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm are most often used for jibs. Such boards can also be used after dismantling scaffolding in construction works, if you can not damage it during disassembly.
Self-tapping screws or nails
Probably, in 100 years there will be disputes about what is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case, everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at a height and therefore the design must be reliable. In this case, nails would be the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.
Unlike them, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is brittle and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding, because there are cases when they broke. But it was about the "black" screws. There are also yellow-green anodized ones, which are not so fragile and can withstand loads.
If you are seriously concerned about reliability, it is better to use nails to make scaffolding with your own hands. But they are not loved because at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the connection without loss and quickly, as the wood will be damaged.
When working independently, do this - assemble everything on anodized screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each joint. In order to prevent damage to the wood in the future, trimmings of thin boards can be placed under the nails, and whole boards can be used over a long span, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you will be able to split them and easily remove the nails.
Design features
For different types of work, scaffolds and scaffolding of different types will be required. For work with light weight materials, high load-bearing capacity is not required. In this case, you can make side scaffolds or a structure in the form of an envelope. For finishing the gables or just the exterior of a one-story low house, it is permissible to use construction goats, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If nothing can be supported on the walls, goats with floorboards laid on the crossbars can be used.
For laying brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick, full-fledged scaffolding will be required. Wood scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.
As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on the stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.
Attached scaffolds
The design got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against, and not attached. They are held in place by an emphasis. The more you load this scaffolding, the stronger it will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter "G", but they are deployed in different directions.
The first figure shows a reliable and simple scaffold design. Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all work that does not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such scaffolding for building a house from a bar. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can withstand a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.
The second drawing shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although at first glance you can’t tell. But still it is verified by thousands of people who used them in construction. It is attractive that a minimum amount of building materials is required, and assembly / disassembly / transportation can be done in a few minutes. The main thing is the manufacture of triangles, and installation at the right height will not take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.
In order to make triangles, a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm is used. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffold to the required height for it. The crossbeam on top should be between 0.8 and 1 meter long, and the floorboards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and wide - the more the better, preferably 15 cm.
When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase reliability, use metal pads in the form of a corner. But if you install the corner with three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Installation of triangles is made for each meter. If it works out, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is for gravity. The main load in this design goes to the thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end on the ground, and the other on the upper part of the triangle.
The stops must be made of timber or boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes of at least 7.6 cm in diameter or section (for profiled pipes at least 5 * 4 cm). During the installation of the stop, it should be placed exactly in a corner, hammered into the ground, additionally fixed and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of lateral shift, the installed stops should be fixed with several jibs that will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. For jibs, you can use an unedged board, if any, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.
If you want to grow the thrust boards (to be more than 6 meters in length), you should make an additional emphasis. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby remove part of the load. Now about do-it-yourself scaffolding flooring. It must be made from a wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, it is required to fix them to the triangles at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the installation of railings, and the slightest fluctuations underfoot will cause discomfort, so it is highly desirable to take care of fixation.
Drawings and photos
The described options are good if the use of heavy materials is not expected. It is not always possible to lean the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.
For the arrangement, you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm, and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams that are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them proceed from the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on the flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper upward.
To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with a release of 25 cm. They will not allow the structure to collapse. Racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use to make the flooring so that they do not sag. Installed racks at the right distance should be fastened with slopes between themselves. So they will not allow the structure to fold to the side. The more you make jibs and crossbars, the more reliable the design will be.
Also, so that self-made scaffolding does not fall, they should be supported with timber or boards, and one end should be nailed to the racks with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. The cross beams will not allow the structure to fold to the side, but there is a possibility that without securing the scaffolding will fall forward. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.
If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, you can not support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at high altitude. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks and knots. Handrails will give confidence during construction.
Standard 6 meters are enough to the floor level of the second floor. But such forests are inconvenient in that they have to be completely disassembled if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can build scaffolding from sturdy old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - everything that can be found on the farm.
Construction goats
There is another simple way to make mobile light scaffolding with your own hands - to make the same goats, on which the crossbars are stuffed with a certain step, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring. Floor boards should be laid on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for sheathing a house. The sheathing will take place from the bottom up and it is necessary to change the height all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction goats would be the best option.
Sometimes they make one rack on one side vertical and without tilt. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be located conveniently for work. This is an excellent option for painting, caulking and preventive treatment.
Varieties and knots of metal scaffolding
When building a stone house, or a building made of building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They can withstand any load. Their popularity is less than that of wooden structures, as they are more expensive. The second decisive moment is the analysis of the construction wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be put into action, and the metal parts will gather dust in the barn.
But metal scaffolding also has a lot of advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, owners of private houses still need them - to take care of a log house, for example, which means that once every 2-3 years they will definitely be needed. In this regard, a metal structure will be more practical than a wooden one, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.
All scaffolding made of metal have the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbars.
Only the method of fastening between them will differ:
All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work that you are going to carry out will help you decide. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin ones are most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but not good only for a rectangular shape, and to bypass complex shapes, you will have to additionally weld the pipes.
From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - a step-by-step instruction has been prepared for you. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and designs in general. You will also learn about accessories for working at heights.
Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders, which serves for lifting and working at height. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is traumatic.
Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements apply to scaffolding:
- Reliability. The system of elements must withstand the weight of workers and material in motion with a margin.
- Manufacturability. It implies the convenience of assembly / disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or an entry-level specialist.
- Thrift. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
- Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wood - the ability to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.
Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. It is unprofitable to purchase them for home use, only rent is possible with a large amount of work (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction, it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the building structure.
Standard wood scaffolding
The design of these scaffolds came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming a frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have been improved. They deserve special attention.
Basic elements of wooden scaffolding
1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes
Racks. Good quality edged board vertical supports. They perceive the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Rack Requirements:
- Edged board of the 1st grade of any breed.
- Board thickness - not less than 30 mm, width - not less than 100 mm.
- Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board must not be broken, cracked, rotten, crooked, of variable section, with excessive wane or holes.
- The board must not be infested with insects.
Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splicing of the racks. Elements should be butt-jointed, not "overlap" and clamped on both sides.
Crossbars. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to the requirements for racks. One additional requirement: the use of spliced cross members without additional support is unacceptable.
Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross bars. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - board guides, sheet material on top. Continuous flooring and run-up is allowed.
Braces. Diagonal links connecting racks of different rows. It is allowed to use rails, slabs. It is advisable to install braces of maximum length in order to connect the largest number of racks.
Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to avoid deflection from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.
Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding
There is a set of general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from the requirements of safety and the experience of high-altitude masters:
- The foundation must be solid. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
- The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
- For each node - at least 3 attachment points. With multi-point mounting - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
- Use powerful self-tapping screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the back side.
- Always install railings on the inside of the rack.
- Use a frontal board (fence at the flooring).
- Racks at the interface must be trimmed.
- The spacing of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.
Scaffold assembly
To create a wooden scaffold structure, you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.
Operating procedure:
- The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal step (1.5 m) and get the number of racks.
- We collect the "envelope" - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them in this place with a cross bar.
Attention! The angle between the upright and the cross member must be 90°. Skews can deform the frame under load.
- We sew the frame with a diagonal.
- We prepare the required number of "envelopes".
- Install two "envelopes" vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at the maximum height so that they stand without support.
- Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the floorboard so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
- Place the deck board on the cross members and fix it. Reinforce bracing.
- Fix the flooring on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
- Install the rest of the "envelopes" and flooring in the same way.
Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or flooring sheets must fall on the crossbar!
- Install handrail and front board.
- If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
- If the height is more than 2 tiers and you need to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then connect the edge of this board with the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.
Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - the dismantling of the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.
Devices for wooden scaffolding
Steel Crossbar - Bracket
This element greatly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross section of the board.
triangular bracket
Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows the scaffold to be attached directly to the wall. For a flooring device based on it, several boards for a ladder are enough. But at the same time, for rearrangement, you have to dismantle it. Mounting something from the bottom up is not possible. The most dangerous type of high-altitude scaffolding. When working, special skill and caution are required.
Bricklayer Express Scaffolding
They are created from pallets on which bricks were brought. For flooring, as a rule, a rafter board is used. It does not require sawing the material, while they are quite reliable, if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.
Bricklayer scaffolding on video
Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time for strengthening can turn into unpleasant, and sometimes serious consequences.
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Are there any regulatory requirements for scaffolding used in laying walls and facades? In this article, we will get acquainted with the documents regulating their construction, and also find out how home-made wood scaffolding is assembled correctly.
Regulations
Scaffolding requirements are mentioned in passing in countless occupational safety manuals; however, any serious attention to their design is given in only two documents:
- GOST 24258-88 describes the use of scaffolding in construction;
- SNiP 12-03-99 is dedicated to labor safety in construction; scaffolds are mentioned in section 7.4 of this document.
To clarify: the section is devoted not only to forests, but also to safety when using small-scale mechanization and auxiliary devices in general.
Let's dive into the requirements.
GOST 24258-88
First of all, GOST normalizes the design load on scaffolding, depending on their type and the height of the site above ground level.
