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In childhood, probably, each of us played football and hockey, and some of us still do not leave these amusements. And in order for us to have a hockey stick, it is not at all necessary to go to the store and buy it. I will tell you about a way to make a homemade hockey stick - and not only for ice hockey (the so-called Canadian), but also for ours - Russian bandy.
How to make a hockey stick
Unlike a stick for Russian hockey, a stick for Canadian hockey is somewhat easier to make due to the characteristics of the hook (it is almost straight). It is enough to find a suitable blank for a handle with a hook, process it and connect it. The blank for the club should be chosen according to the height of the player, because even mass-produced sticks have 4 sizes: children, teens, juniors and adults.
Also see that the width of the bar is twice as large as its thickness. Now put one end of the timber in hot water and wait until the wood is steamed. Of course, you can find a separate blank for the hook, but this design will not be strong enough and the stick will quickly break. Now we take the wooden end out of the water and cut it lengthwise into 2 parts, to the required length. After that, the workpiece must simply be bent at the desired angle and secured with a clamp and wedges. Next, our workpiece should be left for about a day in a dry and warm place to dry. Now we remove the fasteners from the workpiece and proceed to its processing. Do not forget to fasten together the parts sawn for the hook - they can be glued together, or drilled and riveted.
You need to process the workpiece like this: plan the hook with a planer so that it is of the desired thickness, also plan the handle, giving it a comfortable shape for holding in your hands. After that, put the planer aside and take a grinding tool - a file, and then sandpaper and grind the workpiece. Then we proceed to the final polishing of the workpiece with sandpaper. That's all - it remains only to varnish the product and, after it dries, wrap the stick around. This can be done with a belt or rubber band. It is advisable to wrap the handle with a rubber band so that the club is comfortable to hold. By the way, if the workpiece is too long, cut off an extra piece at the processing stage.
How to make a hockey stick
To make a ball hockey stick, we need a wooden block a little more than a meter long (100-120 cm), however, for a children's stick, the size, of course, should be smaller. The width of the beam with a length of 100-120 cm should be in the region of 50-60 mm, and the thickness should be 25-30 mm. Next, we do everything the same as for making a stick for regular hockey. Only here, before immersion in water, you need to measure 50 or 60 cm (depending on the length of the workpiece).
After the wood has steamed out, pull the workpiece out of the water and cut it lengthwise by 30 cm. Now we put the workpiece in a pre-prepared template and bend the tree without waiting for it to cool. Next, we fix our workpiece with clamps and wedges and leave to dry. Then we take the workpiece and drill the sawn end of our arcuate workpiece. After that, we rivet it with copper wire and washers. Then we process the sides of the bow with a planer to the required thickness.
Well, then, we do everything in the same way as for a regular hockey stick. The cross section for the handle can be selected both faceted and round, according to your desire. Now we saw off the excess, grind, polish our workpiece, and then varnish it and wrap it with belts or rubber tape. Well, now you know how to make a hockey stick - for both Canadian ice hockey and Russian ball hockey.
The young man came to the stadium. Today he participates in a hockey match. This can be immediately noticed: in one hand he has skates, in the other - a stick. And he made it himself, with his own hands.
Young hockey players surround a friend and meticulously examine his "creation". The stick is very good, it will be handy to play with it!
Each of you, young hockey fans, can make yourself such a stick. You will need a little material for this: wood, glue, electrical tape and a leather strap.
ice hockey stick / ball hockey stick
Make a stick for hockey with a ball from dry wood of an ash-tree, a beech or a birch. Before processing the blank, carefully examine the wood. It should be healthy, straight-layered, without rot, cracks and other defects. You can also use wood with small, intergrown knots, but in such a way that when cutting the material they do not go to the edge of the hook or handle. The selected workpiece must correspond in length, width and thickness to this size - 1500 X X 100 X 15 mm.
Now it's time to start processing the board. Usually it is finished with a planer or on a woodworking machine. Bring the blank to the required dimensions (1250 X 70 X 12 mm), and then steam one end of it for one to two hours in hot water (90-100 °). When the wood is well steamed, immediately remove it from the water and begin to bend the hook. Bending is done on a wooden or metal block, the working part of which is made in the shape of the curved part of the hook. When the club takes the form of a blockhead, fix it in this position with clamps (metal clips) and leave it to dry completely. Then remove the stick, stick on the lining if necessary and finish it according to the dimensions indicated in fig. one.
In order for the parts of the club to stick together well, use a waterproof resin glue. If you can’t get it, you can glue the clubs with casein glue. Sand the surface of the club carefully with sandpaper and cover with hot drying oil.
Wrap the hook with electrical tape in two layers in the places indicated in fig. 2. A leather strap, 8-10 mm wide and 1.5-2 mm thick, should tightly wrap around the body of the hook. It must be woven, as indicated in Fig. 2. Fasten the end of the belt with a nail in the middle part of the inner edge of the hook. A properly made stick should weigh no more than 450 grams.
There are three types of ice hockey stick - for the player, the goalkeeper and for children. The stick consists of a handle and a hook, which are cut separately and glued together as shown in fig. 3. For gluing strength, the surfaces of the wedge of the hook and the wedge gap in the handle must be well adjusted to each other.
The wood and glue used are the same as those used to make bandy sticks. Since the hook is made separately from the handle, there is no need to bend the wood.
Player sticks come in four different numbers. They differ in the angle of setting the hook. The angle is chosen depending on the player's place in the team and his individual data (128°, 130°, 132° and 135°). The blade of the goaltender's stick can also be set at different angles (122°, 125° and 128°). The children's club has a hook angle from 130° to 140°.
The finishing of ice hockey sticks is the same as that of bandy sticks.
Remember - the strength of the club to a large extent depends on the quality of gluing parts. They need to be tightly pulled together and held in this position throughout the drying time. When using resin glue, follow the gluing technology exactly (temperature, time, etc.).
At the request of readers
HOCKEY STICK
Making a club is a difficult and painstaking process. No wonder athletes say that a hockey stick should be as strong as steel and flexible as a walnut branch. Making a stick strong and at the same time flexible is not an easy task. This will require, in addition to the necessary materials and tools, even greater accuracy and accuracy when gluing the club.
A hockey stick should not have metal parts: all its parts are made only of wood.
The club handle and boss (see fig.) can be made from birch or beech, the hook can be made from hardwood: beech or ash. Options for selecting wood in the hook are shown in the drawing.
The boss is glued in order to give the stick elasticity and flexibility.
For gluing individual parts of the club, you can use BF-2 glue or ■ "Supercement". It is undesirable to use carpentry or casein glue, because both of these glues are afraid of dampness.
VARIL HTDI COMPOSITION WOODEN) B
Having made the components of the ilyushka: a handle, a boss and a hook, proceed to gluing these parts together.
First glue the boss with the handle as shown in the drawing. Then use a jigsaw to cut a groove for the hook. This is a very responsible operation, and it must be performed very carefully. Any unevenness left by the file can later lead to breakage of the stick.
The part of the hook that connects to the handle and boss is sharpened into a cone. Lubricate the glued parts of the hook and the handle with glue and insert the hook into the groove of the handle. Clamp the club in a press or clamp and let the glue dry.
After gluing, planer the side surfaces of the hook, boss and handle, so that they do not have protrusions and roughness.
Clean the club with sandpaper and varnish the hook and handle to a height of 30-40 cm. Do not varnish the handle at the grip point.
The stick will look more efficient if you make an inscription on its handle.
The drawing shows the club numbers from 1 to 3. In general, there are only nine of them.
The stick number depends on the individual characteristics of the hockey players (skating style, height, puck handling, etc.).
For those who hold the club not far from themselves, a club with a small number is needed.
The length of the stick is considered normal if its handle reaches the chin of a hockey player standing on skates.
S .chRNE "gch"
SPHERE FROM PAPER
To make a ball segment, take a hoop whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the future sphere. Pull on it evenly, on the hoop, a piece of chintz. In the center of the circle, due to its own weight, the fabric will sag by 5 - 7 mm. Place coasters under the hoop and stick several layers of newspaper (3 - 5 mm thick) on top of the circle. To avoid wrinkles, use a warm paste. Don't touch the circle until the paper is
will dry. Under the weight of wet paper, the fabric will stretch, and the workpiece will take on a spherical shape. Remove the dried sphere from the hoop and prime it. Repair irregularities with a paste, which is prepared from a mixture of one part by weight of sifted chalk and one part of paper dust, prepared from newsprint soaked for a day, wrung out, dried and powdered. Mix the mixture well and pour a paste of one fifth of the weight of potato flour and a tenth of the finished wood glue. Paint the sphere with nitro enamel.
COPPER WIRE
Openwork metal products (candlesticks, lamps, pendants for flowers) are firmly established in our everyday life. Light and elegant, they successfully fit into the interior of a modern apartment.
Annealed copper wire 0 3-5 mm, a simple fixture (rollers, pyramids and a cone), a soldering iron and, of course, artistic taste and rich imagination will be required for you to create a cozy home environment in the room.
Lamps and candlesticks are best made from annealed copper wire. To do this, the wire is rolled in rollers (see figure on page 16).
In the steel or duralumin base of the rollers (Fig. 1), a through hole and a groove are drilled for fixed and movable fixation of the wads (and the yaok is a bearing mounted on an axle). The non-flexible roll is fixed on the base with a nut, and the movable roll is fixed with a grommet and a locking screw (Fig. 4). The roll axles (Fig. 3) are machined from bronze, and the locking screw is made from steel. Roll the wire like this: clamp the cracker (Fig. 2) in a vice, set the bearings to the desired distance. Then take the wire at one end with pliers and drag it between the bearings. The operation is repeated until a flat plastic tape of the required thickness is obtained (the thickness of the tape is determined by the distance between the bearings).
If the wire does not roll well, it is annealed a second time. You can bend the wire into rings of various diameters on the pyramid (Fig. 5).
To extrude various spherical surfaces (for example, plates for candlesticks), one more device is needed, consisting of a matrix of an arbitrary truss and a clamping punch (Fig. 6).
From soft metal with a thickness of 0.5-1 mm, cut a circle of the desired diameter. Place the workpiece coaxially on the matrix clamped in the lathe chuck. Then, using the taper of the tailstock of the lathe, press the punch against the die. To give the workpiece the shape of a plate, use a flat file with a bevel at the end. In the tool holder of the lathe, clamp a thick stop plate. Hold the handle of the file with one hand, and its working part with the other. Moving the file along the stop, gently press on the rotating workpiece until a plate of the desired shape is obtained from the round plate (workpiece).
Rolled wire can be used to make not only candlesticks and lamps, but also figures of animals, contour models of cars and even small plots from fairy tales.
N. SCHERBAKOV, Moscow
Hockey is played by many children and adults around the world, and everyone knows that it is impossible to play hockey without a stick - be it ice hockey or bandy. In order to make your own stick for bandy, you will have enough initial woodworking skills. In this article, you will learn the steps involved in making a simple wooden hockey stick.
Instruction
- You will need a wooden beam made of oak or ash, 60 mm wide and 30 mm thick. The length of the beam should be about 1000-1200 mm.
- Measure 50 cm from the end of the beam and place this piece of wood in hot water - the end must be thoroughly steamed so that the beam bends well. Remove the tree from the water and cut the end of the timber 30-40 cm lengthwise.
- After that, place the end in a pre-prepared template and bend the beam without waiting until it cools down after steaming. Bend the workpiece to the desired angle and fix with wedges and clamps in a bent position.
- Wait for the wood to dry. Dry the stick blank in a warm and dry place without temperature and humidity fluctuations during the day. After a day, remove the workpiece from the mounts and the template and start processing it, giving the club a finished look.
- Drill the sawn end of the bow with a drill and rivet it with soft copper wire with metal washers. Plane both sides of the bent bow with a planer until it reaches a thickness of one and a half millimeters.
- After forming the bow, begin to form the handle - plan it with a planer, making the handle of a round or faceted section, as desired. Excess wood at the top of the handle can be cut off.
- Finish the club with final sanding and polishing - use sandpaper and fine sandpaper. Coat the surface of the club with a protective varnish. Wait for the varnish to dry and then wrap the shackle with a tight knotted strap. For convenience, wrap the stick handle in a spiral with a rubber band.
