Sculptural composition, work of Novoselov A.V.

To perform all types of carving, various elements of home decoration, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts, you need a special tool.

The carving tool can be distinguished as the main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and sawing, carpentry, marking). Also widely used are various electrified household tools and appliances based on an electric motor, which the master can make himself.

All tools must be of excellent quality so that you can easily perform carving work of any complexity.

The cutting tool should be made of good steel, light and comfortable, perfectly sharpened so that the wood is cut like butter, it should be kept in perfect condition.

A blunt tool crumbles, crumples, and does not cut wood, and the cuts and the carving itself look rough and careless. This spoils the mood and often discourages the desire to finish the job. It is easy and pleasant to work with a sharp tool, the drawing is clean, precise, beautiful. By finished product you can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also what and how he did the work.

Cutting tool

Bogorodsky knife, used for sculptural carving, takes its name from Bogorodsk sculptural carving.

Bogorodsky knife

joint knife(chamfer sharpening angle 20°, bevel angle 35 0; 45°; 60°), used for flat, flat-relief, embossed, openwork threads.

joint knife

knife cutter- used as an auxiliary tool for various kinds threads.

knife cutter

Chisels straight(sharpening angle 18-20°); are used as an auxiliary tool for various types of threads.

Straight chisel

Chisels semicircular- the main tool used to perform all types of woodcarving. There are: - sloping (R˃H), medium (R=H), steep (R˂H).

Chisels semi-round

Sameski - Cranberries these are chisels with a curved blade that allows, when carving, not to touch the processed plane with the handle. There is a cranberry-flat chisel, a cranberry-corner. cranberry - a semicircular chisel.

Cranberry chisels

Ceraziki chisels resemble steep semicircular chisels. The width of their canvas is 2 ... 3 mm. Designed for cutting thin veins, the sections of which correspond to the profile of the tool.

Cerazik chisel

Chisels - corners or geismus.(angle between cutting edges 50-70°). Used to select a V-shaped groove, used to make contour thread elements.

Corner chisel or geismus

Stichel. Stichels always have a bend angle of 15 degrees. Their handles are most often in the form of a fungus.Used to sample various veins in the manufacture of engravings.

Stichel

Klepiki. Klepiks are the most different sizes, but they have only three forms of sharpening: a sword, a leaf and a nail. The first two are called so: rivet-sword and rivet-leaf.

They are used in flat-relief and three-dimensional carving for cleaning the background in hard-to-reach places.

Klepik-sword, Klepik-leaf

Chisel-nail. Marigolds differ from ordinary rivets in the form of sharpening. She looks like a fingernail. The purpose of nails is cleaning in hard-to-reach places and making stapled thread elements.

nail chisel

Spooners(spoon knives). The best spoon holder is a sharpened ring with a bar welded to it. Spooners needed to remove large volume material in the recesses and for processing the inner walls in the manufacture of dishes.

Spooners

Punches and stamps- these are steel rods with a pattern at the working ends. They are most often used for chasing the background in flat-relief and relief carving.

The cutting tool is made of tool steels:

1-Carbon (U10; U12; U10A; U12A), when sharpened, they are determined by a white beam of sparks with separate stars.

2-alloyed (XB5; X12; Ch12M), when sharpened, they give yellow or orange sparks.

3-High-speed steels (P18; P9), when sharpened, they give dark red sparks.

Tool sharpening and dressing

Proper sharpening of the tool is of great importance for high-quality woodcarving.

Tool sharpening consists of two stages:

1- chamfering;

2- edits.

1. Chamfering. The chamfer can be removed on an electric grinder (see fig.), a grinder with a manual drive or manually on an abrasive block.

An electric sharpener for sharpening and straightening tools: a - a mechanized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, straightening and polishing tools: 1 - movable stop; 2 - felt circle; 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; b - movable stop device;: 1 - horizontal movement lock; 2 - movable platform for choosing the angle of sharpening; 3 - bolt - vertical movement lock; c - a device for straightening and polishing a tool (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber wheels with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft.

The location and movement of the tool during sharpening is shown in the figures.

Chamfering: a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; in - on chisels-corners: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer.

The position of the chisel during sharpening: 1 - straight chisel; 2 - semicircular and sloping; 3 - chisel - corner;

When sharpening it is necessary:

Maintain the specified angle of sharpening;

To maintain the shape of the blade, the chamfer should be even without traces of curling;

Blueing of the instrument is not allowed (prevent by periodic wetting of the instrument in water).

2. Edit. Under the editing of the tool is understood to increase the purity of sharpening the blade, deburring, improving sharpening. To edit the tool, microcorundum whetstones (Fig.), skins, and leather are used.

Sharpening a joint: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -

chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;

b - the position of the hands at work;

For semicircular incisors, a dressing board is made of linden, cuts on its surface are transverse grooves for incisors of different sizes (Fig.).

Dressing boards and belts

1 - board with a set of profile bars and whetstones;

2 - dressing board with chisel profiles;

3 - leather or canvas belt for straightening.

Before editing, GOI paste is rubbed into the dressing board. The inner surface of the semicircular incisors is ruled by round wooden twigs wrapped in fine sandpaper or leather rubbed with GOI paste. You can edit the instrument on a rotating felt wheel rubbed with GOI paste.

A properly sharpened tool must have a specified sharpening angle, blade shape, and no burrs.

When cutting across the grain of a pine or spruce board, the cutter should leave a clean cut without breaking the grain.

Literature:

1. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N.

House carving-M.: Niva Rossi together with the Eurasian Region Company, 1993-352 p.

2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimidko V.T.

Wooden arts: textbook. allowance. Yekaterinburg: Ural. state forest engineering un-t. 2012.

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Probably without the "Bogorodsk" knife there would be no Bogorodsk carving. This knife is also called "PIKE".
For the Bogorodsk knife you will need:
1. A piece of steel. The ideal option wood carvers consider the blade of a mechanical saw (they cut rails with this saw and similar pieces of iron). Steel grade does not play a special role. What is P6, what is P9, what is P6M5, or the completely cunning R3AM3F2, is not particularly important. All of this is great material. These canvases are usually 1.8:2.3 mm thick. Are looking for the right sizes piece of canvas. You can buy a canvas on any construction market.
2. Tree. Or rather, a couple of plates of linden or birch. Exactly planed and dry.
Why linden or birch? This wood very well nourishes the sweat from the hand, which enters into the process of woodcarving. But still, linden is preferable, although it is inferior to fur-deep birch. properties.
3. PVA glue or any other hardening wood glue. It is possible and epoxy resin. Glue "Moment" and the like are not suitable, they do not hold glued seam.

We choose the dimensions of the blade and shank because of what we will do with this knife. If you roughly plan a tree, then we make the blade larger, 70-90 mm, more is possible, but not necessary. If delicate work, then smaller, 30-60 mm. Shank: no matter how much it is a pity, we leave so much. On the shank, using a sharpener or a grinder, we make a bunch of "teeth", notches. This will serve as a good fastener in the tree. We sharpen the blade, razor sharpening of the blade will contribute to the softness of the cut, and the blade will not get stuck in the tree.
We apply a shank to one of the wooden plates and trace the outline of the shank with a pencil. We hollow out a groove in the plate, with a depth equal to the thickness of the blade. The blade, after being inserted into a wooden plate, should not protrude, it may even be necessary that it be slightly lower than the plane of the tree by 0.1 - 0.2 mm. Nothing to worry about, this gap will be filled with glue. Using the sharp tip of a knife, we apply a mesh on the glued planes of the tree, for better penetration of the glue. Boldly smear with glue, insert the blade into the groove, and press the second plate. We tighten this entire structure with clamps or clamp it in a vice until the glue dries completely. For PVA, this is usually a day.
When the glue dries, we give the pen an oval shape in cross section. It is best to make a handle on large chamfers - then it will not slip in your hand.

Better quality knife handles are made from a single piece of wood. To do this, a piece of wood is split off from the log of the desired size, a recess is drilled from one end with a small drill and placed on the blade shank. This is done as follows: a hump of a tree is taken, the future knife is placed on it with a steel sheet down. From above, several blows are made with a mallet on the handle of the knife until the shank fully enters the handle. To fix the canvas in the tree, the handle is planted on PVA glue, and then caps are clogged on both sides of the canvas. When the steel sheet sits firmly in the tree, the handle is given the desired shape and the knife is sharpened. This type of manufacturing of handles for both knives and chisels is traditional and of higher quality. The main thing is that the canvas is strictly perpendicular to the end of the handle.
It is useful to have several Bogorodsk knives, of different sizes and with different sharpening angles.

For carving, chisels are used - flat, semicircular, round, corner, tube.

Tool sharpening

The tool is stored in special cases made of fabric to avoid damage and blunting of the tool. Tool sharpening is as follows:

1. Chamfering on an abrasive wheel with a coarse grain. The chisel rotates evenly. The canvas is constantly lowered into the water, otherwise you can burn the blade.

2. With the appearance of burrs, the tool continues to sharpen on a fine-grained wheel and sharpen the chamfer.

3. Then the Bogorodsk knife is sharpened on chalk bars, water is also used, the knife is often turned over.

4. After that, the Bogorodsk knife is sharpened on a grinder with soap and water. It also flips often.

This knife is also called "PIKE".
How to make a Bogorodsky knife.
Would need:
1. A piece of steel. The ideal option, for wood carvers, is the blade of a mechanical saw (they cut rails with this saw and similar pieces of iron). Steel grade does not play a special role. What is P6, what is P9, what is P6M5, or the completely cunning R3AM3F2, is not particularly important. All of this is great material. These canvases are usually 1.8:2.3 mm thick. We are looking for the right size piece of canvas. You can buy a canvas on any construction market.
2. Tree. Or rather, a couple of plates of linden or birch. Exactly planed and dry.
Why linden or birch? This wood very well nourishes the sweat from the hand, which enters into the process of woodcarving. But still, linden is preferable, although it is inferior to fur-deep birch. properties.
3. PVA glue or any other hardening wood glue. You can also use epoxy resin. Glue "Moment" and the like are not suitable, they do not hold the glued seam.

We sharpen the blade. We choose the dimensions of the blade and shank because of what we will do with this knife. If we roughly plan the pieces of wood, then we make the blade larger, 70-90 mm, more is possible, but not necessary. If delicate work, then smaller, 30-60 mm. Shank:. How many do not mind, so much and leave. On the shank, with the help of a sharpener or a grinder, we make a bunch of "teeth", notches, or whatever else to call them. This will serve as a good fastener in the tree. We sharpen the blade, razor sharpening of the clay will contribute to the softness of the cut, and the blade will not get stuck in the tree. (see fig. 1).

We sharpen the blade and straighten it to the state of shaving the hair (we use our own carcass) After sharpening, we wrap the blade with paper and electrical tape so as not to cut ourselves during the installation and processing of the handle.
We apply a shank to one of the wooden plates and trace the outline of the shank with a pencil. We hollow out a groove in the plate, with a depth equal to the thickness of the blade. The blade, after being inserted into a wooden plate, should not protrude, it may even be necessary that it be slightly lower than the plane of the tree by 0.1..0.2 mm. Nothing to worry about, this gap will be filled with glue. In principle, what is shown in Fig. 2. Using the sharp tip of a knife, we apply a mesh on the glued planes of the tree, for better penetration of the glue. Boldly smear with glue, insert the blade into the groove, and press the second plate. We tighten this entire structure with clamps or clamp it in a vice until the glue dries completely. For PVA, this is usually a day.
When the glue dries, we betray the handle in an oval shape in cross section. I deliberately do not give any cross-sectional dimensions, everyone can choose for their own hand, how comfortable it will be to hold, and correctly. We carefully grind the handle, but without fanaticism, it is not necessary to grind it to the state "like a cat's:" It is also not necessary to impregnate with oil or some other muck like cyanoacrylate, let the tree nourish the sweat from the hand.

Sometimes it is useful (but not necessary) on the handle, closer to the blade (5 mm from the edge of the handle to step back), to file a narrow groove with a file, and wrap it with wire or thick cotton thread and soak it with glue. Make the winding not wide 10: 15 mm wide, so that the winding and the handle are flush. Such strengthening of the structure is necessary for power work or when repairing a knife, when it's lazy to make a new handle.

It is useful to have several Bogorodsk knives, of different sizes and with different sharpening angles.

A few months ago, this note of mine was already published on one of the sites dedicated to woodcarving. I think it would be useful to duplicate it with minor changes here on the blog.

Classic Bogorodsk knives are usually made from Robel saws (the so-called "rapid"), but one day a steel with slightly different properties was required, from which it would be possible to make a knife with a slightly flexible blade to work out some of the internal sections of the slotted thread. A rather exotic contraption was chosen as the starting material for the blades - a knife from a Chinese chopstick manufacturing machine. Steel with a thickness of 1 mm, of course, a completely unknown brand, but with good cutting properties and clearly not produced in the era of the "great leap".

We mark the workpiece and cut it with a "grinder", not forgetting to water it with water to cool. Four rectangular pieces will go to the blades of knives, one piece - to the next "hatchet", the rest will also fit for something ...

On the grinding machine we form blades and shank according to the given dimensions. With a metal ruler, we check the straightness of the butt and especially the future cutting edge. The bevel at the end of the blade will be made at the very end of the process, on a fully finished sharpened knife. If you make a bevel at the stage of blade formation, you can very easily burn the tip of the blade when sharpening.

Let's start making handles. Material - well dried birch bars. We mark the center line on the end of the bar, and on it - the width of the shank. We drill several holes with a drill to the depth of the shank. Instead of a drill, it is better to use a regular nail of a suitable diameter, cutting off its head on a grinding machine. A small-diameter drill can easily break in a bar, and a stuck fragment cannot always be pulled out. The nail won't break. And don't feel sorry for him...

We “mill” the groove with the same nail.

Pour epoxy into the grooves. We clamp the knife blade in a vice through wooden or rubber gaskets, leaving only the shank and a few millimeters of the blade outside. By hitting the mallet on the end of the bar, we put the piece of wood on the metal. We put the handles vertically and from time to time we coat the place where the blade enters the bar with the remnants of glue until it stops soaking into the wood. This sufficiently strengthens the most potentially weak point of the handle. We leave all further work with knives for the next day. We continue it after the glue has completely cured.

The next day…
Using a cardboard template (in the photo - on the left), we draw a handle profile on the bar.

Cut along the contour with a jigsaw.

On a grinding wheel for wood, first we slightly narrow both sides of the handle in the direction from the rear end of the handle to the blade, then we make rounded chamfers on the upper (convex) part of the handle and at the end we round the rear end of the handle. In the absence of this unit, all these operations can, of course, be done manually, but this will take a little more time.

We remove the chamfers on the lower part of the handle with a knife, gradually narrowing the edges. (If not grinding wheel- with a knife we ​​do everything that is written above).

Further in the course are sequentially: a rasp, coarse and medium-grained skins (preferably on a fabric basis). At this stage, it is made final formation handles.

We form the slopes of the blade on a grinding machine. Because in this case only 1 mm thick steel was used, a double-sided straight wedge-shaped sharpening was chosen.

Of course, we hold the knife in TWO hands, and not like in this and several subsequent photos. I just have a camera in my left hand. There was no one nearby to take pictures from the side.

We create a cutting edge on a water stone (or on a fine-grained abrasive wheel). The edge on the stone - only along the course of the stone, by no means - towards the course.

KNIFE - IN TWO HANDS!


After the formation of a burr on the cutting edge, we straighten the blade on a felt wheel with GOI paste until the burr gradually disappears.

KNIFE IN TWO HANDS AND ONLY IN THE CIRCLE! MANY HAVE ALREADY CONFIRMED THAT THE KNIFE POSITIONED WITH THE BLADE TO MEET THE ROTATION OF THE CIRCLE INSTANTLY TURNS THE FELT INTO A CLOUD OF GREEN RAGS, AND THE KNIFE ITSELF, KNOCKED OUT OF THE HAND, FLYING ON AN UNPREDICTABLE TRAJECTORY!