Do-it-yourself chimney from the wall. How to install a chimney from a sandwich pipe through a wall

17 June 2014 Alexei

The fact that the operation of any heating apparatus is impossible without a gas exhaust system is known to everyone. But you have to think about where and how it will be installed in 50 cases out of 100.

Because when building a cottage, very often they simply lose sight of the need to equip a smoke channel simultaneously with the construction of walls and ceilings.

In the case of its implementation in an already built house, it is necessary to lay the chimney directly through the wall. How it should be installed will be described below.

How important is such a design as a chimney?

The need to remove combustion products is due to various factors. Among them, the main thing is not even the efficient operation of the boiler or furnace, but the life and health of the people around. Everyone knows that carbon monoxide poisoning can be fatal, so it should not get into the room.

Another fact confirming the need for a chimney is that no fuel will burn without oxygen. And its entry into the system, again, is carried out through the smoke channel.

As for its implementation not in the traditional version - but through one of the walls, this is most often caused by the lack of standard smoke channels.

Installation rules

What you need to know to properly install the chimney through the wall? There are several key points that should be taken into account when arranging it. The first is that communications cannot be located where the channel will pass.

Installation of a chimney, from a sandwich pipe, watch the video:

Secondly, the places where the chimney passes through the wall are closed with a protective casing, but it is better to plaster it, having previously filled the space with heat-insulating material.

Thirdly, the chimney mounts are installed with a gap of 60 mm.

Fourth, for such a design, double-circuit systems are usually used, since they are better protected from mechanical influences with the obligatory installation of a valve that allows you to adjust the draft.

Having studied the rules listed above, you will be able to mount a sandwich chimney passing through the wall in accordance with established standards. This will be a design that perfectly copes with its functions, which means it can make the operation of the equipment efficient and safe for others.

The specifics of the installation of the internal structure

The difference between horizontal chimneys is their most efficient heating. It's easy enough to explain. The heated products of combustion rise up, and since the horizontal structure has a large area, the heating improves. But if the chimney is installed through the wall, sharp corners in the structure are not allowed, as they can lead to turbulence.

Important for horizontal construction and the thickness of the seams. If there is even a small difference, the internal section changes. And of course, clogging of the pipe with soot is unacceptable, otherwise the traction will worsen.

Installation steps

How to install a chimney through the wall? Installation begins from the heater with the connection of the pipe and the boiler, and then proceeds directly to the installation of the structure. How to run a chimney through a wall? To do this, prepare the place of its passage by first marking, and then making a hole for the through pipe.

The next step is the installation of the pipe. It is fastened in an opening made in accordance with its dimensions with the obligatory insulation of their foil mineral wool.

How to make a chimney through the wall if you need to change its direction? In this case, a tee with a cleaning glass is used, which is easy to dismantle for subsequent cleaning. It is fixed with a bracket.

Then the exhaust pipe is fixed on the wall surface with a special fastener with a gap between the elements of no more than 2 m.

Watch the video, the passage of the pipe through the roof:

The last stage is the withdrawal of the structure through the overhang of the roof. At the same time, it is necessary to know that it is not allowed to connect pipe elements to each other at the exit point. Upon completion, a protective umbrella is installed to prevent precipitation from entering the structure.

Features of the chimney through a wooden wall

If it is necessary to install a pipe through the log structure of a building, it will be necessary to insulate it with non-combustible material (asbestos or brick).

This is done in accordance with fire safety rules and will allow the gas exhaust system to be operated for a long time with minimal maintenance and repair costs.

The best option is a vertical installation of the chimney through a wooden wall, which involves the use of one pipe without bends and turns. To adjust the traction, a gate is installed in it.

The chimney is fixed at regular intervals not exceeding 1 m, and the neck is covered.

And remember that the installation of a gas removal system is a responsible procedure, which must be prepared thoroughly. After all, the functionality and efficiency of the entire system depends on the correctness of its implementation.

Before purchasing and installing a combustion products removal system, it is necessary to determine the power of the heating apparatus. It depends on the diameter of the pipe.

The calculation of the height of the structure is performed to obtain good traction, without which the effective operation of the equipment is impossible. The chimney passing through the wall cannot be either too short or too long.

In the first case, smoke and soot will enter the room, and in the second, fuel will be quickly consumed. With a large draft, the operation of the equipment becomes inefficient, because heat is also removed from the room along with the gases.

To avoid such situations, experts recommend that all work be carried out taking into account existing norms and rules. The chimney must be connected to the boiler using the appropriate elements - an elbow, a tee or a pipe.

And those who install heating equipment in an already built house should be aware that it will be very difficult to make the classic installation option. In this case, the best solution is to lead the chimney through the wall and install the pipe outside the building.

This design requires mandatory insulation, because with strong heating, temperature loads will lead to the destruction of the wall.

And it can be done in two ways:

• Using a telescopic chimney pass through the wall (pipes with a diameter greater than the main one, along the edges of which protective plates are installed)
• In filling the space between the wall and the structure with mineral wool (used only when laying insulated pipes)

Conclusion

A chimney in a load-bearing wall is the simplest and relatively inexpensive option for a finished house. It will save the owner from the difficulties and interfloor overlaps and will allow you to complete all the work in a shorter time.

The main thing is to choose the right design parameters and connect them. After all, with the slightest mistakes made during the installation process, the operation of all heating equipment can become inefficient, and sometimes dangerous.

The chimney is the most important component of the home heating system, which ensures the removal of gaseous combustion products generated during the disposal of fuel put into the furnace. In addition, with its help, it is possible to avoid the ingress of carbon monoxide and other elements that are hazardous to human health contained in mining into the premises.

As a rule, the order of arrangement of these elements of the heating system is laid down when designing the future structure and involves their internal or external laying.

When installing a chimney in an already built building, due to the complexity of its wiring through the roof, the duct outlet is provided through a hole in the wall. With this embodiment, the chimney itself will be completely or partially located outside the building.

In this situation, it is necessary to have a clear idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to bring the chimney through the wall to the outside in an already inhabited room.

Requirements for output channels and their types

Before arranging a chimney, it is necessary to take into account a number of points regarding the admissibility of laying in a particular room. When wiring it through the wall, the following prerequisites must be met:

• Such a chimney is not allowed to be mounted next to utility lines.
• Wiring through the wall should be done in an area where there are no joints between individual pipe blanks.
• The prepared hole is necessarily protected by a protective casing, under which a heat-insulating gasket is laid in the gaps.
• The outlet pipe in the area of ​​the chimney passage through the wall is rigidly fixed by means of special fasteners spaced at least 60 cm apart.
• Horizontal sections when connecting to the wall should not exceed one meter in length.

According to their design, chimneys intended for output through the wall are divided into single-circuit and double-circuit systems.

A single-circuit version of the smoke exhaust channel is allowed when the chimney is located outdoors in structures made of non-combustible material (brick and concrete). Its main advantages are the relative ease of installation and low cost. The features of this method of arranging a chimney include the use of standard steel and stainless pipes.

When installing a double-circuit outlet system, not one, but two tube blanks inserted into another are used. Before the pipes are led out of the furnace through the wall, a layer of insulating material is placed between them. This option for arranging a chimney passing through the wall has an increased degree of thermal protection and is recommended for use in wooden buildings.

On a note

Structures based on modern sandwich pipes, which are distinguished by their attractive appearance, relatively low weight and long service life, are becoming increasingly common in private construction.

It is clear that the installation of a chimney through a wall in a wooden house involves its partial or complete laying from the outside of a residential building. Let's analyze the positive and negative sides of this method of arranging the output channel.

Advantages of outdoor chimney laying

The external method of wiring the outlet pipe has the following obvious advantages:

• The removal of the main part of the outlet channel from the house allows you to increase the usable living space of the room.
• Installation of the combustion products removal system can be carried out upon completion of the main construction activities.
• External laying of the chimney will not require you to spend a lot of time and effort.

Easily eliminated shortcomings of this approach include:

• The need for mandatory insulation of chimney pipes.
• The possibility of significant heat loss with low quality thermal insulation.
• The complexity of combining the design of the chimney with the architectural style of the building.

Despite all these difficulties, in deciding whether how make a chimney through the wall, preference is usually given to its external placement (full or partial).

Chimney assembly and its output through the wall

Before starting installation work, a complete set of parts that are part of the structure to be equipped should be prepared. It should consist of the following standard components:

• a set of pipes and connecting elements (tees, in particular) necessary for branching the chimney and bringing it out;
• the so-called "elbows", through which it is possible to form a pipe bend at the desired angle (its value is usually indicated in the name of this workpiece);
• mounting support console, through which the structure is fixed on the walls (with a set of special clamps);
• a special viewing (revision) tee, simultaneously used to clean the channel from soot;
• moisture (condensate) collector built into the chimney.

If necessary, additional viewing windows and control dampers are introduced into the structure.

Before you install the chimney through the wall, you should make sure that the angle of its supply to the wall is exactly 90 degrees (a pre-prepared square can be used for this purpose). At the same time, it will be necessary to take the dimensions of all blanks and mark the place where the pipe exits through the wall, which specifies the location and diameter of the hole for it.

All further operations are carried out in the following sequence:

• First, in accordance with the markup, a round hole is made in the wooden wall corresponding to the diameter of the selected pipe blank (with a small margin for insulation).
• Then a horizontal section of the outlet is laid through it, going directly from the heater.
• A layer of thermal insulation is mounted on top of the outlet blank, which is optimally suited for these conditions, and the hole itself is closed from the inside with a special protective casing.

The passage of a sandwich pipe through the wall is also subject to mandatory thermal insulation.

• A vertical part of the outlet channel is attached to the laid horizontal pipe at an angle of 90 degrees from the outside, the tees of which are fixed with support brackets, and the joints are fixed with clamps.
• A condensing tank is mounted on the lower side of the tee, and the main outlet channel is fixed on the wall using the same clamps and brackets located at a distance of no more than 60 cm from one another.

Experts also advise to organize the insulation of the pipes being laid from the outer surface of the walls of the building (by means of basalt mineral insulation, for example). This technique is usually used when laying chimneys in buildings made of wood materials.

In conclusion, we note that users often ask this question: how to get the pipe out of the bath through the wall and are there any special requirements for this procedure?

The answer to this question is quite simple. In the conditions of the bath, the chimney outlet is equipped in exactly the same way, however, in this case, increased requirements are imposed on its insulation, namely:

• the opening for the outlet channel is protected by special non-combustible materials (fire-retardant fabric, for example);
• in addition, this section of the wall is upholstered with metal sheets that protect the wood material from excessive overheating and ignition.

All other actions for laying a chimney in a bath are similar to the operations already described earlier.

There are cases when it is not possible to bring the chimney out in the usual way - through the roof, and then it is necessary to equip the chimney through the wall. In order for the functioning of the chimney to be as efficient as possible, it is necessary to select the most suitable pipes for the boiler, install the chimney with high quality, and, if necessary, insulate it.

Brick chimneys, which were once very popular, are losing their relevance, and are increasingly used today. These products are easy to install and low cost. Their surface is smooth, these pipes do not need to be insulated.

Advantages and disadvantages of a chimney through the wall

By leading the chimney through the wall, you will receive the following benefits:

• the chimney almost completely protrudes into the street, and does not pass through the entire house;
• you can perform installation of the product both at the very stage of construction, and after the house has been erected, for example, when installing a heating system;
• no need to make holes in the ceilings when the boiler is located on the first floor of the building, several floors high;
• the integrity of the roof is maintained;
• when assembling and installing the chimney through the wall, there will be no particular difficulties.

Chimney through the wall in a wooden house

Despite the large number of advantages, the design also has disadvantages and must be taken into account:

1. A prerequisite for installing a chimney through a wall is.
2. Inside or outside the house for such a chimney, it will be necessary to allocate a sufficiently large horizontal section.
3. According to experts, the external gas outlet pipe has low productivity.
4. It is unlikely that the product will fit the design of the room, so here you have to get confused.

Chimney through the wall

Installation

Before proceeding directly to the installation, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures, including the calculation of the boiler power, the determination of the optimal diameter of the pipes, as well as the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

It is very important that the diameter of the inner pipe is not less than the diameter of the nozzle on the boiler. The boiler is selected based on the criterion of the heated volume, and only after that the constituent elements for the chimney are selected for it.

If the pipe diameter is larger than the nozzle diameter, then an adapter must be placed in the middle of them.

When installing pipes of a certain diameter, it is necessary to take into account the power indicators of the heater. So, for boilers with a power of up to 3.5 kW, the diameter of the pipes should be 8 cm, for equipment with a power of 3.5 to 5.2 kW, pipes with a diameter of 9-11 cm are needed, for products with a power of 5.2 kW - pipe diameter must be greater than 11 cm.

It is also necessary to take into account the thickness heat-insulating layer. At an operating temperature of 250 ° C, like a gas boiler, the basalt layer must be at least 3 cm.

For wood and oil boilers with an operating temperature of 400 ° C - already 5 cm.

Installation of a chimney

There are two ways to lead the chimney through the wall:

1. Pipes inside the room must be raised a small distance from the ceiling, where they are taken out into the street.
2. From the boiler nozzle, immediately in a horizontal position, pipes lead through the wall. The advantage of this method is that fewer bends are formed, and this has a positive effect on the performance of the chimney.

It is possible to assemble a sandwich pipe when installing the vertical part of the chimney in two variations - “by smoke” or “by condensate”.

Chimney assembly "by smoke" and "by condensate"

By installing the pipe through the smoke, gas and combustion products move upwards, but here you will have to face such a negative moment as the formation of condensate that accumulates in the pipe. This method has gained popularity in cases where the chimney is collected through the roof. Here, almost the entire pipe is located in the house, and not much condensate forms.

Condensate installation is an installation method in which the pipe with its expanded end points upwards.

With this assembly, the condensate simply flows down the pipe into the glass. The disadvantage of this method is that smoke can seep out if the joint areas are poorly sealed.

The condensate assembly is used when the chimney passes through the wall: in this case, the condensate is directed into the glass, and the smoke comes out of the joints on the street. This will not affect the well-being and health of the residents of the house.

Basic installation rules

In order for the functioning of the chimney to be as efficient as possible, during the installation process it is necessary to follow a number of rules and recommendations on which not only the performance of the installation, but also safety will depend.

Basic requirements for installing a chimney through a wall:

1. It is important that the pipe rises above the ridge, at least 50 cm, and preferably 100 cm. The traction force depends on this. This directly affects the traction force.
2. The total length of the vertical part of the pipe should ideally be 5-10 meters, if the pipe is at a greater distance, then the draft will be too strong and the fuel will burn out very quickly. If the length of the pipe is not enough, then the thrust, on the contrary, will be weak, and, accordingly, the operation of the heater will not be very effective.
3. To prevent melting of the heat insulator, the first segment of the chimney must consist of a single-circuit pipe. It is necessary to make a joint with a sandwich pipe, while maintaining a distance sufficient to ensure that the fasteners do not overheat during operation.
4. The boiler must be placed on a metal sheet. The insulation of the wall from the boiler is carried out in the same way. For wooden houses, according to SNiP, it is necessary that the boiler and chimney be located at a distance of at least 45 cm from building elements that can catch fire, and 25 cm from parts made of low-combustible materials. So that the outlet for the pipe is not too large, the wood must be sheathed with metal, in which case the outlet may not be 45, but 25 cm.
5. A metal box must be placed in the finished hole, through which the pipe is passed, and without any connections, because if necessary, access to them will be very difficult. The cavities in the wall must be filled with heat-insulating material that is not afraid of burning.
6. Next, you need to sew up the pipe hole from the outside and from the inside. For this, a metal sheet is used.
7. Then, with the help of brackets, you need to fix the support platform for the chimney outside the building, and a tee should be placed on the outlet section of the pipe. The bottom of the pipe is removable, it has the shape of a glass and condensate, which is formed during the combustion of fuel, gets into it. Often the glass is supplied with a tap and a drain hose. Condensation is a toxic substance, so it is better to drain it away from home.
8. The chimney at the top is also fastened by means of brackets, which are located one from the other at a distance of no more than a meter. To protect against precipitation, a cap is put on top of the pipe.
9. For high-quality sealing of the joints, they must be coated with a heat-resistant sealant, after which the joint area must be tightened with a clamp.

Insulation of an external chimney

As already noted, the best option for a chimney is to use a sandwich pipe, which is not only easy to install, it also does not require additional insulation.

If it is used for smoke removal, then you need to mount it in a box, where the distance between the walls of the box and the pipe is filled with a basalt heat insulator. Also, foil or other non-combustible material can be used as a heater, but the top of the pipe must be covered with a dense layer of heat-insulating non-combustible material.

Summing up all of the above, it is worth saying that installing a chimney through a wall is quite simple. If you strictly follow the installation technology, then this procedure will not take you much time and effort, and the heater will delight you with work efficiency and good traction.

When designing a wooden house, it is important to consider how it will be heated. When connected to a central heating system, there are no problems. But if it is decided to design a more economical autonomous way of space heating (boiler, stove), then it is necessary to think about how to remove combustion products from the room. The main problem here is how to lead the chimney through the wall in a private wooden house. To prevent unpleasant consequences, it is necessary to follow the recommendations on fire safety when designing and installing with your own hands.

Methods for making chimneys

The installation of a system with which the exhaust of combustion products is carried out can be carried out from the following materials:

• brick;
• ceramics;
• metal.

Varieties of outdoor chimneys

A chimney in a wooden brick house is a solution that is now practically not used. The use is justified, for example, in the process of restoration, when it is necessary to recreate the original appearance of the house, which is of historical value.

Ceramic products are a more modern solution. It is a construction of a special chimney brick, insulation and an internal ceramic pipe. Their installation allows to ensure the smoothness of the inner walls and reduce the deposition of soot on the inner surface of the pipe.

A metal chimney is a composite pipe consisting of two shells with a heater laid between them. Each type of construction has its own installation and design requirements. Therefore, without a detailed consideration of each individually, it is difficult to understand the technology of the device through the wall.

Ceramic chimneys

In the manufacture of an internal chimney, the following requirements are imposed on it:

Ceramic pipe device

• the minimum distance from the chimney to the supporting beams, if laying between the pipe and the ceiling of asbestos sheets in two layers is provided - 250 mm, without asbestos laying - 380 mm.
• in the presence of asbestos insulation, the distance from the pipe to the wooden wall is assumed to be 250 mm or more, if no insulation is provided, the distance is assumed to be at least 380 mm.
• when using mineral wool for insulation, the distance from the pipe to the rafters is taken at least 130 mm;
• when using combustible materials - 260 mm;
• for roofing in places of contact with the pipe, materials resistant to high temperatures (steel, ceramic tiles, slate) should be used. If materials such as bituminous shingles are used, it must be prevented from contacting the pipe. The distance from the bituminous coating to the chimney in the plan should be at least 50 cm.

All the requirements described above are relevant for the manufacture of an internal chimney, but sometimes it is better to choose an external outlet. It avoids difficulties and increases the safety of the structure, since combustion products cannot enter the room.

The products of combustion are immediately removed to the outside

This installation is only suitable if the boiler is located directly on the outer wall. The design will not allow to perform an extended horizontal section. The advantages of using it include an attractive appearance of the building. This option is best suited for liquid and gaseous fuel boilers. The disadvantage of the design will be the increased formation of condensate, which leads to the deposition on the walls of substances that destroy the pipe.

An external chimney is made in the same way as the internal one, but it should be provided for the insulation of its walls in contact with cold air. The thickness of the thermal insulation is up to 10 cm and is assigned depending on the climatic features of the area. It is important that in most cases the pipe will still pass through the roofing, so it is worth following the recommendations for internal conclusions. In the lower part, a hole is provided for checking and cleaning, and a drip is also installed. Under the brick pipe, you will have to make a separate foundation or a ledge of a support under the house.

It is worth considering the following masonry requirements:

• provision of dressing;
• production of ceramic solid bricks on lime (cement-lime) mortar inside the house;
• after the output through the roof, the masonry is performed on a cement mortar;
• the thickness of the seams should not exceed 10 mm;
• plastering of the inner surface of the pipe is prohibited.

Metal chimneys

Here, during installation, in addition to the fact that the distance is taken into account in order to secure the wall or ceiling, a different thickness of the inner wall is taken for heating devices from which combustion products are removed:

Smoke extraction system through a sandwich pipe

• boilers on gas, diesel fuel, pellets - 0.5 mm;
• fireplaces and stoves - 0.8 mm;
• boilers on coal -1.0 mm.

The wall is made of stainless steel. An additional advantage of such a chimney is that it comes with elements in order to carry out the passage of the chimney through a wooden floor, roof or wall.

Installation through the wall railing eliminates the need to pass through the ceiling and roof. This method increases the safety of the system, since the pipe is located outside and combustion products cannot enter the room. For a metal pipe through a wall, ready-made parts are used. At the same time, it is important to remember that a horizontal section appears and a sliding seal must be provided, which will not allow damage to the chimney during shrinkage of wooden structures.

Installation through the outer wall of metal pipes is the easiest option for making a chimney with your own hands. This method allows you to change the direction of the pipes without difficulty. The work is carried out in the following order:

1. Marking the laying route, determining the exit point through the wall fence. Making a hole according to the size of the chimney.
2. Fixing the inside of the pipe, passing through a hole in the wall, insulation.
3. Changing the direction of the chimney at an angle of 90 degrees using a special tee with a cleaning valve, which provides the possibility of revision and cleaning. The device is installed at some distance from the wall.
4. Increase the pipe in height. Additional tees are required if a change in direction is required. The chimney is fixed to the wall using special fasteners located every 2 meters.

Pipe insulation

To bring the pipe out with your own hands, it is necessary to provide for its insulation. The situation here is similar to the insulation of the chimney when passing through a cold attic and after the exit to the roof has been made. Installation of thermal insulation can be carried out using various materials.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is easy to install and does not burn. There are special elements for pipe insulation on the market that will greatly facilitate the work. If you want to save money, it is better to choose glass wool in mats (rolls). Characterized by high efficiency. You can choose a material suitable for thickness and density.

Basalt pressed cardboard is a durable material that can withstand up to 2000 heating and cooling cycles. Basalt fiber does not burn. The positive aspects will also be low cost and the ability to withstand high temperatures.

Asbestos fabric is common in our country to comply with fire requirements, but is not used in Western countries due to the content of carcinogens. When used in outdoor chimneys, human contact with asbestos is minimal, so the material does not pose a hazard.

Installation of insulation for brick pipes is carried out in the same way as the thermal insulation of external walls. There are two options for metal chimneys. The first is the simplest - the purchase of pipes of the "sandwich" type. The design already includes insulation and consists of an outer and inner pipe. The second option is to manufacture an outer casing from stainless steel and lay an effective insulation between it and the chimney. The easiest way in this case is to use mineral wool. The thickness of the thermal insulation is taken no more than 10 cm.

Installation of an external chimney is especially relevant when installing a boiler in an already operated house, since it allows you not to affect the floors and roof.

One of the most important issues here is sufficient pipe insulation.

There was also a simpler option - from a metal pipe, but additional difficulties arose with it. And how good it is now that sandwich pipes for chimneys have appeared.

What are the benefits

Why sandwich pipes were able to quickly conquer the market? Simplicity of construction, consisting of an outer and inner pipe, inside filled with mineral wool for thermal insulation. Special fasteners at the end make it easy to install, whether through a roof or a wall. For production, such a reliable material as steel is used. If you know all the details, and even better, watch the video instruction, then assembling such a system with your own hands will not be a problem. But you must strictly adhere to the installation instructions and fire safety in order to avoid problems in the future.

The advantages of sandwich pipes include:

It is clear that the stainless steel from which the pipe is made makes the price of it quite high, and this is a relative disadvantage. And improper installation over time can cause loss of tightness of the structure. But if the first pays off with a long service life, then the second depends only on who will be involved in the installation.

It's important to know

Before starting the installation, it is worth familiarizing yourself with some of the subtleties. For example, it is important to know that the larger the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure will be inside the room, the less heat loss will be. When creating a detailed diagram, consider the fact that even horizontal sections should be up to one meter. Please note that the contact of the system with any communications, such as gas and electricity, is unacceptable. And if wooden parts come across in the way of placing the chimney, then the pipe must be moved away from them using special steel brackets. The distance between the fasteners should not exceed one meter.

Also include in the plan a part of a collapsible pipe or an insert with a door through which it will be possible to inspect and clean soot. Of course, installing a chimney sandwich is a serious and responsible matter, so if you decide to do it without specialists, then understand the degree of responsibility and strictly follow the step-by-step instructions.

In the finished building, a chimney is being installed through a wall of sandwich pipes. To do this, take measures to protect the wall from the high temperature of the chimney. Well, if the house is new and it is possible to install the system indoors. But in a wooden house you can’t do without insulating materials. And it doesn’t matter what you choose for this purpose: mineral wool or asbestos, but you have to do it. Such fire safety standards regarding log cabins.

Already at the stage of buying pipes, you should have a diagram and calculations in your hands. A low chimney will not have draft, and often smoke and soot will return inside the room, and if it is too long, it will speed up the process of fuel combustion, and heat will go into the atmosphere. The optimal length of the system is in the range from 5 to 10 meters. In addition to the chimney itself, you will need various tees, pipes, elbows and fixtures.

It is clear that the ideal option is the passage of a pipe through a roof or wall, and it does not matter whether the construction project is taken into account. This guarantees your safety. But if it didn’t work out, then we are looking for a section on the wall where there are no other technological structures nearby. Experts advise to retreat from any communication at least 40 cm, and if this is not possible, then provide for additional insulation.

For different walls, their installation secrets

If you have walls made of logs, then pre-drill the necessary holes, larger than the pipe itself, in diameter. The round shape of the hole will help create a special drill. And now in order:

1. The first way: you will need several heat-insulated pipes of a larger diameter than the chimney, inserted alternately into each other;
2. The second option: we lead the chimney through the wall, laying out the space between them with high-quality thermal insulation.

Passing through a brick or twin block wall is done like this. First, marking is done taking into account the appearance of cracks from the holes made. In order to avoid this kind of problems, put a special metal frame inside. The free space near the pipe must be filled with refractory material and shields must be installed that will close the transition. The main difficulty is to go through the wall, and then to assemble the structure is quite simple. Collected? We fix on the wall.

It is clear that when experienced craftsmen mount, there is no doubt about safety and reliability, but if you decide to do it yourself, then just remember the responsibility entrusted to you for the lives of those who will live in this house.

Step-by-step installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through the wall: video instruction

In the foreseeable past, no one could have thought that the installation of chimneys would be within the power of everyone. And it's clear why. Previously, only a stove-maker knew how to correctly create a structure from bricks of the desired shape and size. Such knowledgeable people were greatly appreciated.

How to properly install a chimney from a sandwich pipe through the wall

In order to create the most comfortable conditions in this corner, in addition to comfort, you should take care of safety and ease of installation.

For this purpose, they have been devised chimneys from sandwich pipes. Due to their special design, combustion products in the form of ash and soot do not settle on the walls of the pipes, which additionally provides protection against accidental ignition.

What is a sandwich tube?

sandwich tube- This is a special smoke channel, made in the form of two interconnected metal pipes, which differ in diameter. At the same time, a pipe of a smaller diameter is located inside a larger one, and the free space between them is filled with a special refractory material - heat-resistant basalt fiber - using high pressure.

The chimney itself can be represented as a constructor, which is assembled from special elements - tees, clamps and bends.

Ease of assembly is ensured by thoughtful design details. Each element has different thread sizes on both sides, due to which the parts are assembled according to the principle of sockets in sewer pipes. This connection provides the pipes with complete tightness. Clamps are used to further strengthen the connected segments.

How to properly assemble a sandwich pipe?

To begin with, a two-layer pipe is securely attached to the branch pipe of the sauna stove using a starting cone.

Chimney in the sauna stove- the simplest design, because it has no turns and additions. In most cases, this is a straight pipe coming out of the stove and going through the ceiling to the street.

Step-by-step installation of a sandwich chimney in a bath

Despite the fact that installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe with your own hands is a very simple task, feasible for a person who has nothing to do with construction, you still need to pay attention to the basic subtleties of the installation. In this article, we will consider installation of a chimney through the wall.

1. Installation takes place in the upward direction, from the furnace to the roof. When assembling the chimney, the narrowed end of the pipe is inserted into the previous, wider one.
2. The sandwich pipe is never installed directly to the oven. First of all, it is better to put a single-wall stainless steel pipe. This will allow you to get more heat output, while protecting other elements of the furnace from overheating.
3. Due to the absence of soot accumulations on the walls of the chimney, condensate is easily removed from it. For this, additional tees are installed.

Tees can be freely moved around the structure on special skids. To create such a design, you need to disassemble the chimney, fixing the landing brackets, then assemble the outer bracket and attach several corners to it.

• The wall should be closed with a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick, and asbestos should be attached to the plywood with screws. The next layer is galvanized steel with dimensions of 120 * 200 mm, also fixed with screws. In a steel sheet, carve a square recess for the pipe outlet, and insert an adapter into it. Then, using a special anti-corrosion varnish, cover the bracket.
• During the installation of the chimney, remember to leave some free space between the wall and the chimney, the so-called concession.

The maximum length of the chimney, starting from the grate and ending with the deflector, can reach 5-6 meters. At the joints of the pipes it is necessary to apply a sealing material with heat-resistant properties (withstanding temperatures up to 1000⁰C). At the end of the installation, be sure to clean the structure from the protective film.

For further cleaning of the chimney from soot, a revision is provided in the body of the pipe - a tee with a door on the side. It cuts directly into the pipe.

For a reliable support of the chimney, you can make a bracket with your own hands from steel corners 30x50 mm. For this, a drill with a grinder and M10 bolts is useful. Instead of bolting, the bracket frame can be electrowelded.

Conclusion

The most time-consuming step in the process of installing a chimney from sandwich pipes is drilling holes in the wall and sheathing the structure with insulating materials. And then, having prepared the necessary material and tools, it is enough just to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

How to install a chimney from sandwich pipes

In recent years, more and more chimneys are made from sandwich pipes. The point is a relatively low price, long service life, quite attractive appearance. It is also important that self-assembly of a sandwich chimney is possible. This is not a very simple matter - there are many nuances, but you can do it yourself, without involving specialists.

Painted to match the roofing

What is a sandwich pipe and what are they

The sandwich pipe was named so for its multi-layeredness: there are two layers of metal, between which there is a heater. Such a structure solves many of the problems that were inherent in a simple metal pipe chimney. Firstly, the insulation layer does not allow the outer metal casing to heat up to critical temperatures, there is no hard radiation from the pipe. More comfortable conditions are created in the room. Secondly, the same insulation significantly reduces the amount of condensate that forms when the pipe is brought outside. Thirdly, since the outer casing is no longer so hot, it is easier to make the chimney pass through the roof or wall.

A sandwich pipe is two metal cylinders, the space between which is filled with insulation

What materials are they made from

Sandwich pipes are made of galvanized or stainless steel. Galvanized sandwich pipes for chimneys are rarely used. Unless for the removal of combustion products of a low-power wall-mounted gas boiler or gas water heater. Can be used for insulated ventilation. They are unsuitable for more serious heating appliances - at high temperatures, zinc burns out, steel quickly rusts, and the chimney becomes unusable.

Sandwich pipes for high temperature flue gases are made of stainless steel. Moreover, stainless steel is used in different grades - from alloys with a low content of alloying metals, to high-alloy heat-resistant. The thickness of the metal can also be different - from 0.5 to 1 mm, as well as the thickness of the insulation - 30 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm. It is clear that the scope will be different, and the price too.

As is clear from the table, different grades of stainless steel have different purposes. Cheaper alloys are used for the outer casing, more heat-resistant and expensive - for the inner. This is necessary to reduce the cost of production, and high resistance to temperatures outside the chimney is not needed. There are even more budget options - the outer casing is made of galvanized steel. Outwardly, these products lose to stainless steel, but they serve normally (with normal insulation and its thickness).

Insulation and its thickness

Between the two layers of metal is a heater. Most often it is stone wool. The thickness of the insulation is from 30 to 100 mm:

• With 30 mm thick insulation, the flue gas temperature must not exceed 250°C. Such temperatures are produced only by gas boilers of small and medium power.
• A 50 mm thick insulation layer can withstand temperatures up to 400°C. Scope - any gas and liquid fuel boilers, wood-fired, provided that the chimney is led outside (through the wall).
• A 100 mm stone wool layer allows it to withstand temperatures up to 850°C. Such a sandwich chimney can be installed on any type of solid fuel boiler, in fireplaces and hearths.

In addition to the thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to pay attention to its brand, or rather, to the temperature range in which it can work. Not all stone wool can withstand temperatures up to 850°C, but only some special brands. If you need a chimney for a solid fuel boiler, you will also have to take into account the heat resistance of the insulation.

A set of elements from which a sandwich chimney of any configuration is assembled

Connection types

The elements of a chimney sandwich can be connected to each other in two ways: sockets and corrugated edges. The socket connection assumes the presence of a slightly wider chamfer on one side. With this design, a high degree of tightness of the chimney is achieved. This type of sandwich pipe is well suited for gas boilers where it is important to prevent leakage. There is a minus: installation requires high accuracy.

The corrugated edge of the sandwich allows you to assemble the chimney without problems. The downside of this solution is that a significant amount of high-temperature sealant is required to ensure tightness, and it costs a lot.

Features of sandwich pipes for chimneys

It is also worth paying attention to the longitudinal seam. It can be welded or folded. If the seam is welded, it must be made in an argon protective environment (so that alloyed metals do not burn out). It is this type of connection that is required for solid fuel boilers, sauna stoves and fireplaces. For all others, you can use the seam connection.

Mounting methods

There are two ways to bring the chimney outside. The first is to lead the pipe through the wall, and then raise it along the outer wall to the required level. The second - up, through the ceiling and roof. Both of them are imperfect.

If the chimney is outside, due to the temperature difference, condensation actively forms in it. Therefore, a tee with a condensate collector (glass) and a cleaning hole must be installed in the lower part of the chimney. This unit allows you to maintain the chimney without much difficulty: the glass is unscrewed, the condensate is drained. Also, soot is periodically knocked off without problems - a special brush for the chimney can be run through the cleaning hole.

Approximate diagram of the passage of the chimney pipe through the wall and roof

If the chimney is led out through the roof, several passage nodes will be needed - according to the number of overlaps. If the house is one-story, you will need one passage through the ceiling, and the second through the roof. You will also need a master flash or apron for a round galvanized pipe.

Installation of a sandwich chimney on the street requires only one pass-through node - through the wall. But it will be necessary to fix it to the wall every 1.5-2 meters. If the walls of the building are combustible (wooden house or frame), the walls are necessarily protected by a non-combustible screen.

Smoke or condensation

Assembly types of sandwich pipes

As mentioned above, one side of the sandwich pipe is slightly wider, the other is slightly narrower. Due to this difference in diameter, the modules are connected to each other. If the wider end is turned up (in the figure on the right), the assembly is called "condensate". With this method of installation, drops of condensate flow down unhindered. The disadvantage of this method is that with insufficient sealing of the joints, smoke can seep into microcracks. This type of installation of a sandwich chimney is used when the pipe is led through the wall. This is where the free flow of condensate is required, and small smoke leaks are not terrible - they are not critical on the street.

If a narrower edge turns up, the second element is put on top of it with a wider part. This type of assembly is called "smoke" (in the figure on the left). In this case, the condensate flowing down the wall can seep through an insufficiently well sealed joint. But the smoke passes freely. This type of assembly is used if the pipe goes indoors (outputs through the roof). The condensate flowing through the pipe, of course, spoils the appearance, but it is not as dangerous as flue gases leaking into the room. Moreover, with good sealing of the joints, condensate will not leak.

In order for the connection of the chimney sandwich modules to be reliable, each of them is usually coated with a heat-resistant sealant, and then tightened with a clamp.

Sandwich chimneys are good because they have a modular structure, which allows you to assemble any configuration, with any parameters. Before you go to the store, you need to know the required chimney diameter, pipe height and those additional elements that will be needed.

Chimney diameter

When choosing the diameter of a sandwich pipe, a simple rule applies: it cannot be less than the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe. If your outlet pipe is 120 mm, then the inner diameter of the sandwich should be the same or larger. It may be wider, but less - definitely not, and narrowing cannot be done throughout the chimney. If the chimney is slightly wider than the pipe, an adapter is purchased, which is placed directly on the boiler outlet, and then the working size already goes.

If there is no boiler yet, but you know its power, you can choose a chimney based on these data:

• boiler power up to 3.5 kW - inner diameter of the sandwich - 80 mm;
• from 3.5 kW to 5.2 kW - at least 95 mm;
• more than 5.2 kW - 110 mm and more.

But it is better to buy (or at least choose) a boiler, and then decide on a chimney, because many manufacturers insure themselves by making the outlet pipes wider - to improve traction.

Installation of a sandwich chimney begins with determining the diameter

Pipe height

The height of the chimney above the roof surface depends on the place of its output, but at the same time its minimum height should be 5 m. That is, if the height of the house is small, in any case, bring the pipe to a height of 5 meters. If the height of the house is higher than 5 m, then the pipe should rise above the roofing material to the following height:

• Should rise above the ridge by 50 cm if it comes out at a distance of less than 150 cm from it.
• If the distance from the ridge to the pipe is more than 300 cm, then the pipe may be lower than the level of the ridge, but the angle should not exceed 10° (see figure).
• If the chimney exits at a distance of 150 to 300 cm from the ridge, its height may be at the same level as the ridge element or higher.

Under such conditions, normal traction is provided. The smoke will normally go away regardless of weather conditions. To prevent leaves from entering the chimney, they put special umbrellas, weather vanes, and in windy places - deflectors, which further improve traction.

Height of the sandwich chimney pipe

If it is not possible to bring the pipe to such a height, they put a smoke exhauster - forced draft is obtained. The fan will not be needed all the time, but in some conditions, when natural draft is not enough, a forced draft saves the situation.

Installation of a sandwich chimney through the wall

There are two ways to lead a smoke tube through a wall. The first option (in the photo on the left) is to raise it indoors closer to the ceiling, and bring it out there. The second is to draw a conclusion at the level of the flue pipe from the boiler. In this case, almost the entire chimney is on the street.

How can I bring a sandwich chimney through the wall

The second option is preferable - it has only one knee, which means that, under equal conditions, traction will be better. Also, with this structure, there is less chance of the formation of soot plugs.

If the flue outlet is not at the back of the stove, but at the top, the installation scheme changes slightly - a 90 ° elbow is added, then a straight section for passing through the wall, and then the same as in other schemes.

The stove itself is placed on a non-combustible base, the wall behind the stove is closed with a non-combustible screen. The easiest way is to fix a sheet of metal on the wall. You can mount on ceramic insulators 2.5-3 cm in height. There will be a layer of air between the sheet of metal and the wall, so the wall will be safe. The second option is to place heat-insulating material under the metal - for example, mineral wool cardboard. Another option is an asbestos sheet (as in the photo).

Preparation of a place for the installation of a furnace and a PPU installed in the wall with a piece of pipe

A hole is made in the wall. Its dimensions are determined by SNiP - the distance from the pipe to non-combustible walls must be at least 250 mm on all sides, and to combustible ones - 450 mm. It turns out a solid hole, especially when it comes to walls made of combustible materials. There is one point with which you can reduce the size of the hole for the passage of the sandwich: make the dimensions according to the norms of non-combustible walls and sheathe the opening with non-combustible material.

An example of organizing the passage of a sandwich pipe through a wall

The opening can be round or square, as long as fire safety standards are maintained. It is easier to make and sheathe square holes, therefore they are more often made.

This is how a pipe passage through a wall sealed with a sheet of metal looks like

A passage unit is inserted into this hole - a box made of non-combustible material. A sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into it, fixed in the center. All gaps are laid with heat-resistant insulation, the hole is closed on both sides with non-combustible material. Usually it is a sheet of metal.

A passage node is inserted from the side of the room. In this case, it is made of minerite, but it can also be metal

One important point: it is necessary to develop a chimney so that there is no junction of two pipes inside the wall. All joints must be visible and serviceable.

Next, you need to make or install a ready-made support bracket that will support the entire weight of the pipe. The design may differ in details, but the main idea is the same - a support platform, which, with the help of stops, transfers weight to the wall.

A similar design can be welded from a profile pipe of a small section of 25 * 25 mm or 25 * 40 mm.

As you can see, a tee is connected to the pipe that runs through the wall. At the bottom there is a removable glass in which condensate accumulates. Some models have a fitting with a small tap at the bottom. This is even more convenient - you don’t need to remove the glass, you can connect a hose to the fitting, take it into some kind of container (it is very toxic, so you don’t need to drain it near the house) and drain it by simply turning the tap.

Next, the tuba is brought to the required level. Since in this case the distance to the ridge will clearly be more than 3 m, it is possible that the height of the chimney is slightly lower than the ridge - not lower than 10 ° in relation to the horizontal line drawn from the level of the ridge.

Lead the chimney preferably above the ridge

But since this house is located in a lowland, to ensure traction, the pipe was raised even higher than the ridge. It was fastened to the wall with stainless steel clamps, with a step of a little more than a meter. On the roof there are stretch marks made of a steel bar with a diameter of 6 mm. To install stretch marks, there are special clamps "with ears" to which stretch marks are attached.

Fastening stretch marks to the chimney from sandwich tubes

Another important point that many people forget about: at the place where the pipe is installed, on the roof, you need to install a snow retainer section, otherwise, in the spring, the pipe can be blown away with snow (if the pipe is not brought out towards the gable, as in the photo).

How to install a chimney through the roof

When removing the chimney from the sandwich pipes through the roof, it is necessary to take into account the location of the floor beams and rafter legs on the roof. It is necessary to guess so that the pipe passes between these elements. The minimum distance from the outer wall of the pipe to the fuel element must be at least 13 cm, and this is provided that the fuel element is protected by insulation. To meet this requirement, the pipe often has to be moved. Do this using two 45° angles.

Offset pipe to pass through the ceiling

Please note that the installation of a sandwich chimney from a solid fuel boiler begins with a metal pipe without insulation. She is black in the photo above. After it, an adapter is placed on a sandwich, and a chimney with insulation enters the passage unit.

A hole is cut in the ceiling that meets fire regulations - 250 mm from the edge of the pipe, if the ceiling is protected by heat-insulating material. Having cut a hole, its edges are covered with non-combustible heat-insulating material. Minerite is best suited for this (nailed or fastened with wood screws).

Gray material around the perimeter of the hole - minerite

A chimney sandwich pipe is inserted into the resulting box. It should be directed strictly vertically, without the slightest deviation. You can’t fix it rigidly, you can only give direction by installing a few slats that will hold it, but it can move up / down without difficulty. This is necessary, since when heated, its length increases significantly.

The remaining space is filled with basalt wool (check the temperature range). Another option is to pour expanded clay, granular foamed glass. Previously, sand was still covered, but sooner or later, it all woke up through the cracks, so now this option is unpopular. On the front side, all this “beauty” is covered with a stainless steel sheet, under which non-combustible material is placed (between it and the ceiling). Previously, it was asbestos sheet, but since asbestos was recognized as a carcinogen, mineral wool cardboard was used.

There is one more option. Beat the edges of the hole with mineral wool, and then insert the finished stainless steel ceiling-through unit. It immediately has both a box and a decorative stainless screen.

Ready-made ceiling-through node (one of the options)

Having brought the pipe to the attic, they make a hole in the roofing pie. All films at the passage point (vapor barrier and waterproofing) are cut crosswise. The resulting triangles are wrapped and secured with staples from a stapler. So the damage is minimal. The exposed crate is cut so that there is at least 13 cm to the pipe.

How to bring the chimney through the roof - the passage of the ceiling and roof

In the right photo above, the passage through the roof is incorrect - the distance between the pipe and the boards is too small. In a good way, it is necessary to cut them according to the standard, beat them with the same mineralite. You should get something similar to the following photo.

Correct passage of a sandwich chimney through the roof

Master flash for sandwich chimney - rubber cap with flexible "skirt"

The junction of rubber and pipe is sealed with a heat-resistant sealant. The roof surface under the “skirt” is also coated with a sealant.

Tube-mounted master flash

Please note that each connection of the sandwich modules is tightened with a clamp. This is also true for the internal chimney.

Do-it-yourself installation of a sandwich chimney: into the wall, through the roof

In order for the independent installation of a sandwich chimney to be correct and safe, you need to know the rules and fire regulations. How to bring a sandwich pipe through a wall, roof, read the article.