Do-it-yourself potbelly stove with an oven. How to make a potbelly stove yourself at home

The potbelly stove is an iron, compact-sized stove with a chimney at the top. It consists of a chamber where solid fuel is poured, a grate in the form of a metal grate, a pipe - a chimney and an ash pan for collecting ash.

With the ability to handle the welding machine, the device is easy to manufacture, and at the same time, it will serve faithfully in an unheated room, in the field, in the absence of central heating for more than a dozen years.

How to do it yourself?

Manufacturing options:

Rectangular oven

It is a metal box, you can independently weld the structure of steel sheets. For a rectangular potbelly stove, an old automobile tank, a box will fit perfectly.

Usually, this form is chosen when it is necessary to cook food on the stove.

On a capacious platform, you can immediately put 2 large pots or containers for heating water.

The manufacturing principle is simple: doors are built to cover the blower and the combustion chamber, a hole is made for the chimney, combustion products must leave the room in a timely manner, otherwise you can inhale carbon monoxide.

From a gas bottle

The most common type of potbelly stove. The cylinders have thick walls, the furnace is durable, mobile, fireproof.

First, a drawing is drawn, markings are made. The door for the combustion chamber will be located in the center of the cylinder. It blew in the same plane, only 10-12 cm lower.

Instruction:

1. We take a grinder, cut out both doors, draw a closed line between them.
2. Along the line we cut the balloon into 2 parts.
3. At the bottom We weld the grate - blower.
4. Install grate, weld both parts again.
5. for valve make a hole with a radius of 10 cm.
6. for hood we insert a hole into the pipe, by welding we weld objects.
7. simple stove from the cylinder is ready, you can use it, throw in fuel and check its operation.

For cooking on the top of the stove, the design is slightly different:

1. cut off the top of the balloon.
2. Inserted inside and welded rods.
3. Side top cut a hole for the pipe. You can heat and cook food at the same time.
4. Welded hole, the valve is screwed in, a comfortable handle adapts.
5. From a pipe, barrels can also be done oven. The barrel or pipe must be selected according to the diameter.
6. At the bottom of the barrel pipes cut 2 holes for the firebox and ash pan.
7. Make doors.
8. Do framing metal strip holes.
9. Under the furnace door at a distance of 10 - 12 cm inside the barrel, weld brackets at the corners, a grate will lie on them, weld it first from any fittings.

When making a furnace from a pipe, weld the bottom of it, as well as a part on top:

1. Down to the bottom weld 4 legs.
2. On a surface cut a hole, weld a pipe to it, this will be a chimney.
3. Weld hinges to the previously cut holes, install the doors. Also, mark and attach a hook so that the doors lock tightly.
4. For design aesthetics finish all welding seams, clean them 10. Paint the outside of the device with heat-resistant paint. Whatever a factory product, you can sell or successfully use it yourself.

Working furnace

The option is distinguished by a specific smell, which during the combustion of fuel will be emitted by oil mining, even in the presence of an exhaust hood.

Instruction:

1. To make this model, select sheet material with a thickness of at least 4 mm, a chimney pipe, individual small structural elements.
2. Do it on a sheet accurate markings of all elements, having previously drawn a drawing.
3. embed all elements with a grinder, clean the edges of the parts. Drill round holes in the pipe.
4. Top of the tank cut the pipe hole off-center to the left.
5. Shifted to the right on the circumference, drill a hole for the connecting pipe.
6. Got 2 circles, weld them to the pipe, the thickness of the upper tank will depend on its segment.
7. Decorate the bottom part of the stove in the same way., but now cut the hole right in the center of the marked circle.
8. cut next second hole, attach the sliding cover to it.
9. Weld to the bottom plane 4 legs.
10. Clean seams after welding, paint the surface with high temperature resistant paint.
11. Connect the chimney to the oven. The mining will be poured into the lower part of the tank, after the paper is ignited, the sliding cover closes, and the mining starts to burn. Oxygen will penetrate through the holes, mining will burn intensively.

Necessary materials, tools

Before starting work, prepare the tools:

• metal brush;
• chisel, pliers, hammer;
• tape measure, chalk;
• drill with drills for metal;
• grinder;
• circles for metal;
• welding machine;
• protective mask;

For the case you will need a pipe 30 cm in diameter, at least 5 mm thick. You can use sheet metal of the same thickness instead of a pipe.

For the chimney, you should choose a pipe 12 cm in diameter, at least 3 - 4 mm thick. To avoid burning out, a metal box is suitable for the ash pan, so you need to choose a durable sheet metal.

Walkthrough

First you need to cut the metal, taking into account the thickness and length of the desired blanks.

Chamfer parts from parts, the touch to the furnace will be safer, and the welding seams will be strong:

1. Check the correct markings of the parts before you start cutting them. When cutting, consider the thickness of the walls of the furnace, also the circle.
2. Bevel the prepared parts to prevent accidental contact with the hot device.
3. Check all part markings.

The design is installed in the following sequence:

1. Connect welding machine to the network.
2. Take electrode with a thickness of 4 - 5 mm, taking into account the sheet or pipe.
3. Install current strength on the device up to 160 A.
4. put on special glasses and overalls, protect your hands with leggings.
5. To the bottom of the oven weld three walls.
6. Bottom of device place at least 5 cm from the floor.
7. Connect parts at right angles. Check their perpendicularity with a level.
8. Where needed, straighten the corners of the details.
9. weld details and joints relative to the floor level, at an angle of 45 gr.
10. weld a partition between the blower and the firebox, having previously cut holes so that ash does not accumulate.
11. withstand the distance between the holes is at least 5 cm from the walls of the stove. The distance between the partition and the bottom of the structure must remain at least 10 cm.
12. Lastly by welding, cut holes for installing a chimney on the back of a homemade stove.
13. Make markings, drill rectangular holes in the places intended for the firebox and blower.
14. Align with baffle all bottom holes. The distance between the walls of the furnace and the upper side edges should be at least 3 - 5 cm. The opening for the blower is slightly smaller, but not more than 5 cm.
15. Bulgarian cut two holes from metal, form doors. Weld them on the canopies, raise the blower to the maximum to the top of the slab opening so that they do not sag further under the influence of high temperatures.
16. To the doors weld bolts, they should open and close easily, without obstacles.

After all welding work, check the quality of the seams, tap them. If there are defects, correct them immediately. At the end of the work, weld the upper part of the device.

How to make a potbelly stove of long burning?

In order for the potbelly stove to radiate heat for as long as possible without throwing another portion of firewood, it does not burn out quickly, it is possible, the fuel will not burn, but smolder, the heating process without laying firewood can be extended for several hours.

The manufacture of a furnace for long burning is somewhat different from the usual design.

A balloon is best suited for the furnace:

1. Cut off the top of it, this will be the lid of the stove.
2. Punch a hole at the top and side of the stove, this will be the hood.
3. Punch a hole in the center so that the balloon can be easily inserted.
4. weld to the cut hole of the pancake pipe, a little longer than the cylinder. The pipe will serve as a blower, and oxygen will flow into the furnace, the fuel will not smolder, but will not burn.
5. cut off part of the balloon in the center, insert the pipe into the hole as a blower. The principle of operation of a potbelly stove for long burning is to create pressure inside the chamber. After the firewood flares up, a heavy metal circle sinks inside, begins to put pressure on the fuel, creates pressure on it, the fuel begins to experience a lack of oxygen and slowly smolder. The smoke, heading up, goes out through the chimney, the room will not be smoky.

Pros and cons

Like any other heating device, the stove has both pros and cons.

The undoubted advantages of a homemade oven are:

1. Compact dimensions.
2. Use of any available fuel, you can heat with peat, firewood, sawdust, wood chips, coal.
3. Insignificant costs for the manufacture of the device, basically you can get by with handy materials.
4. Construction installation does not require laying the foundation, chimney.

The disadvantages of the oven include:

1. Quite a large expense fuel material, the principle is as follows: while you are drowning, it is warm. To keep the room cool, you need to throw fuel more often, otherwise you can just freeze.
2. Furnace walls become very hot and may result in burns if touched.
3. Should not be allowed coals falling out of the oven, this is fraught with fire.

Where can it be applied?

Furnaces were popular in the first half of the last century. They warmed the soldiers' dugouts, dugouts, and heating wagons.

Today, stoves still heat garden houses, garages, warehouses, greenhouses, that is, where there is no gas pipeline, and electrical appliances are inefficient, while burning a lot of electricity.

Types of homemade bourgeois

The material for the construction is cast iron or stainless steel. The furnace consists of a container, an ash pan, a branch pipe, a chimney, a furnace door.

The types are distinguished:

• pyrolysis ovens;
• with a cooking platform at the top for cooking;
• furnaces sheathed with a casing for efficient heat transfer. For homemade, you can pick up an old cylinder, a barrel, a large vat, a can. Furnaces can be cylindrical, rectangular;

Installation safety rules

Any home-made heating device is designed to heat the room, making it more comfortable, but along with this, such devices are far from safe, fraught with ignition, fire.

When installing the structure, it is very important to follow the safety rules:

1. Bake must be installed on a surface that is resistant to fire, otherwise the floor may burn through. For this, it is good to lay bricks and tiles on the floor.
2. The walls of the stove should not overheat much; for this, special drywall or other non-combustible material is used in the manufacture.
3. Fast flammable materials do not put near the firebox, they can catch fire.
4. take care about ventilation in the room where the potbelly stove will be located. Carbon monoxide should be released in a timely manner, and not accumulate inside the room.
5. use in production only high-quality, refractory material.

1. In the presence of panel, wood walls in the house install the oven at a distance of 1 meter from them.
2. Be sure to mount chimney preferably from one section.
3. When running a pipe through a wall install a brick thermal barrier. Do not use concrete for these purposes, it crumbles quickly.
4. for garage a potbelly stove for working out is better, so do not rush to throw out car rims from the wheels.
5. Don't put the oven near flammable materials.
6. pipe section just above the roof, make it from non-combustible material, so the stove will cool down much more slowly.
7. Think well ventilation system, the room should not be burning.
8. Lay out the floor and walls near the structure with bricks or facing material, the stove is fire hazardous. The same applies to the chimney, the distance to the walls and ceiling should be at least 1.2 meters.
9. Install for safety metal guard around the device.
10. grate it is better to make it from cast-iron grates in a set, so it will be easier to pull them out of the furnace.
11. Install all parts of the chimney only at the top of the structure, they must withstand high temperatures over 300 degrees.
12. Work the seams after welding with a durable and high-quality sealant.
13. Do not brush the pipe, metal objects, the pipe walls can quickly leak.
14. Mounting the chimney, make a rain visor, rain moisture will not get inside the pipe.

An excellent budget option for a heating and cooking stove is a potbelly stove. It is incredibly convenient and easy to set up and operate. It is good to have such a device in the country, in the workshop, and in many other places. A water potbelly stove can heat several rooms. There are many different models on sale today, from unpretentious functional to sophisticated retro. But their price cannot be called low. Therefore, craftsmen with some experience, having tools and suitable metal, can try to make an effective potbelly stove with their own hands.

Drinking from a balloon

The simplest version of a potbelly stove can be made from improvised materials. A thick-walled barrel, an old industrial can or a gas cylinder (of course, empty) is suitable for this.

Resourceful craftsmen use pipes of suitable diameter, disks from overall wheels and sheets of metal.

When choosing the initial tool for work, it should be taken into account that too thin metal deforms when heated strongly, and the product from it will lose its shape. The optimal thickness of the material is 3-4 mm.

For convenient and efficient work on the manufacture of even a small potbelly stove with your own hands, you will need the following:

Events with balloon No. 1

Several rows of holes are drilled in the bottom of the potential firebox (sidewall of the cylinder), which will play the role of a kind of grate. An ash pan is located along it - in our case, a box made of thick metal. It must be equipped with an airtight door that prevents ash and hot coals from escaping.

On the sides of the ash pan, the legs of the structure should be welded. A round hole is made on top of the lying balloon.

The vertical part of the potbelly stove will stand on it. It is convenient to make a door from the head of the second cylinder; a branch pipe with a valve is not welded into it - to regulate the intensity of combustion. If the door hinges are located at the top, then the lid under its weight will fit snugly against the furnace opening, which will reduce air suction to a minimum.

Events with balloon No. 2

A special screen, the panels of which are installed on the rear and side surfaces, will not only increase the operational safety of the system, but also, thanks to the formation of an additional convection flow, will significantly increase its performance.

A potbelly stove is an ideal solution in conditions when it is necessary to provide heating for small-sized premises (garage, utility room, bath heating), spending a minimum amount of money. You can save money by using materials that almost everyone has, as well as by the ease of doing it yourself. Next, we will consider what a potbelly stove can be made of and give specific drawings.

What tool is needed?

Regardless of the chosen drawing or design features of the potbelly stove, in order to carry out work on its manufacture, in addition to materials, it is necessary to prepare the following tools and equipment:

• A hammer.
• Bulgarian.
• Welding.
• Drill.
• Drill.
• Brush.
• Chisel.
• Pliers.
• Roulette.

It is understood that each of the listed tools is designed to work with metals.

Choose a view and get started

Potbelly stove can be made by hand from:

• Sheets of metal.
• Pipes.
• Can.
• Gas bottle.

The type is selected from the availability of materials, as well as the preferred complexity of the work performed.

Potbelly stove from sheets of metal

Here are the features of making a stove from metal sheets that use different raw materials for heating: mining and firewood.

Furnace in production

To start working with your own hands, a metal sheet of about 5 mm is prepared (it is this width that allows the stove to warm up quickly and effectively heat the garage) and pipes (needed for a chimney and some other elements). For a more accurate understanding of the manufacturing principle, see the drawing:

Let's get started:

1. According to the given dimensions, it is necessary to cut out the elements from the sheet, from which the furnace will be made. Try to clean up the cut edges as much as possible.
2. A part is being prepared for attaching the components of the potbelly stove - a pipe with holes.
3. Parts of the upper tank are being prepared for the installation of a chimney pipe. To do this, according to the data given in the drawing, make a hole shifted to the left in relation to the center. Also, another hole is made at the bottom of the tank (shifted to the right) - it is intended for installing a connecting pipe.
4. The constituent parts are welded together and a finished tank is obtained.
5. The lower tank is welded in the same way. Only a hole is made to install the pipe in the center. You also need to make another hole with a slight offset - processing will be poured into it. A special sliding cover is made above the filling hole.
6. The lower tank is attached to the upper one (they are welded to the connecting pipe). Structural strength should be given with brackets.
7. Do not forget to weld the legs to the lower tank.
8. To increase the service life, the furnace is cleaned and painted.

Attach the potbelly stove to the chimney and try to heat the garage. To do this, pour fuel into the lower tank and set it on fire. When it flared up, you need to close the processing hole with a sliding lid.

Important: To paint the structure, use special heat-resistant paints.

Rectangular wood stove

This option is suitable when you need to heat a garage or sauna rooms designed for relaxation.

The features of the model, the manufacture of which we will describe further with our own hands, lies in the high heat transfer and the ability to adjust the traction force.

Our oven will measure 45x45x80. Such dimensions are enough to heat the average room. It will fit long firewood and is easy to move.

In this case, we will not give a specific drawing, and will try to explain as much as possible in words. Before starting work, we buy:

• Steel 3-4 mm thick. A sheet and a half by two meters will be enough.
• Piece of pipe. Choose from diameters from 90 to 100 mm. Length: 0.4 m.
• Rebar 16 mm. You need exactly 6.2 m.
• Five kilograms of electrodes.
• Four door hinges.
• A steel rod, half a meter long and about 10 mm in diameter.
• Seven meters of a corner with a 40 mm shelf. The walls must be 5 mm thick.

When everything you need is prepared, we begin to work with our own hands in the following sequence:

1. The future walls of the structure are cut out of the sheets.
2. The corner is welded in such a way that a frame is obtained. When performing this and the first paragraph, you need to remember the above dimensions of the stove (45x45x80).
3. The reinforcement is cut and welded to the frame with an interval of 2 cm.
4. The finished frame is scalded with tin.
5. According to the diameter of a smooth bar in the pipe section, which will be the chimney, 2 holes must be made. The pipe is welded to the frame (before that, you need to make a hole under it).
6. A curved rod is inserted into the chimney openings. It should be in the shape of a right angle. A piece of round tin is welded to it, slightly smaller in size than the inner diameter of the chimney - it will be used for adjustment.
7. The potbelly stove must have doors. They are cut straight out of the body. Loops are welded onto the removed piece of metal, with the help of which they are attached to the furnace.
8. Bolts and handles are installed on the doors, which can be made of any convenient type. The main thing is that they guarantee the maximum fixation of the door (if you do not want to burn down the garage).
9. When the work is finished, you can check the result of the work with your own hands and start heating the garage.

Important: To ensure traction, the doors are attached so that there are small gaps.

Potbelly stove from a pipe

This option implies the simplicity of doing the work with your own hands and an aesthetic appearance, which will allow you to heat not only the garage, but also small rooms in the country.

Work algorithm:

1. The pipe is taken and cut to the desired length.
2. 2 holes are cut in the side part: for the ash pan and the firebox. The distance between them is approximately 15 cm.
3. The cut out parts of the metal will serve as doors. Their size increases with the help of welding on top of metal strips. You also need to immediately install the handles that secure the door.
4. Corner brackets are welded inside the future stove (the grate, welded with your own hands from reinforcement or bought in a store, will be held on them).
5. The grate is installed.
6. In the circle of metal that will close the pipe opening (the upper part of the potbelly stove), you need to make a hole for attaching the pipe (chimney).
7. The bottom and top of the stove are brewed.
8. The pipe is welded.
9. Hinges are welded and doors are installed.
10. The furnace in the places of welding joints is cleaned and painted with special paint.
11. The last stage is the connection to the chimney brought outside the premises.

If everything is done correctly, the potbelly stove will be able to completely heat a garage or other small room.

can stove

From any old can, a potbelly stove can be made with your own hands. For this you need:

• Can.
• Piece of pipe.
• Armature or wire.

Let's get started:

1. On a can installed in a horizontal position, we mark the location of a rectangular blower. It must be placed under the cover.
2. Cut out a hole for the chimney. It can be in the bottom or wall.
3. We make a grate. It is easier to make it from steel wire, which, in a bent form, is brought into the middle of the future stove and straightened. It is necessary to arrange the zigzag in such a way that it is most convenient to fill the potbelly stove with firewood.
4. We attach the legs.
5. We weld the chimney.

The design implies a minimum of manufacturing costs and you do not need to have professional skills to perform the work. With its help, you can safely heat the garage and other utility rooms.

Gas cylinder stove

If you have a gas cylinder lying around on your site, use it to create a potbelly stove.

Work sequence:

1. Cut off the faucet and make a hole plug.
2. Cut a hole in the bottom for the door. From the resulting piece of the bottom, with the help of scalding it with a strip of metal, doors are made.
3. A lock-handle is attached to the doors and they are mounted on the cylinder using hinges that are welded.
4. In that part of the cylinder, which will be the bottom, you need to make a grate. To do this, it is enough to make holes.
5. A tin box is welded under the holes in the bottom, into which soot and waste will fall. Doors also need to be made in front of the box - they will be used to adjust the thrust.
6. The stove must be raised from the ground with the help of legs. For their manufacture, an ordinary pipe is suitable.
7. A chimney is welded into the upper part of the cylinder.
8. If necessary, a hob can be arranged on the surface of the structure.

Such a stove will heat a garage or a small house in the country.

A potbelly stove is a fairly simple device for heating rooms. When doing work, remember that the stove must not only heat, but also meet the minimum fire safety requirements.

In Russia, then the USSR, potbelly stoves were used where there was no central heating: in front-line dugouts and dugouts of the Great Patriotic War, in state institutions of the same time, in heating cars. See a photo of a potbelly stove made by yourself on the website.

Who are the authors of homemade products?

Many Russians are sure that this is only a simple Russian invention. And some are wrong. In the United States, the same homemade products have been used for centuries, being called "fat belly", in Japan - "darums".

The revival of bourgeois women took place in Russia in the second half of the 20th century due to the massive appearance of garages, garden plots, where they were the only means of heating thin-walled buildings.

After the improvement of these mini-ovens - and for cooking: a pot or pan was placed on a stove attached to the top.

Until they were replaced by a centralized supply of methane, gas-balloon stoves or wood-burning bricks. They also came in handy in the 90s of the crisis years due to interruptions in gas and other types of fuel. It's good that at least there was plenty of firewood.

What is attractive bourgeoisie?

Its main feature is the simplicity of the design. Even with many additions to it, the principle of operation of a metal stove remains the same: everything that is at hand burns and heats summer residents.

Although at the same time half of the thermal energy escapes through the direct-flow pipe. But no one writes off even a heating source that has rusted from time to time.

It is easy to make such a temporary stove in a day or two. But first draw up the drawings of the potbelly stove with your own hands. Much of what is stored in the closets of rural houses and dachas goes into action. These are milk and water metal (but not duralumin) cans, barrels from diesel fuel, vegetable oils, pipes, boxes, corners.

Nothing expensive, including a tool - in the villages every owner has it at hand. High-quality assembly using gas or electric welding.

But neighbors who have units will help with this. Welding machines provide greater reliability and rigidity of the assembly. How to make a potbelly stove with your own hands, step by step instructions below.

We make a potbelly stove from a steel can

Stock up on a hardened chisel, a hammer, a chimney, a piece of rod with a diameter of 0.6 - 1.0 cm. Prepare an electric drill with a drill one centimeter in diameter. If there is a grinder, you will speed up the assembly twice.

In one part of the cover, at the very bottom, drill 5 - 7 holes for future traction. Bend a long rod with a snake and with legs, at least four. These will be the grates when you insert them into the can.

Straighten the snake inside so that it lies horizontally and firmly just above the holes. Firewood will burn on this “grill”, and good air draft will go through the holes and with the help of a chimney. It will be the catalyst for combustion.

For the chimney, fit a piece of water pipe, even used, with a diameter of 7-8 inches. Near the bottom or on the very bottom, strictly perpendicular to the grate, cut through with a chisel or saw through a circle with a grinder.

Insert the pipe into it a few centimeters, and from the outside fix it tightly with a clamp on the bolts or weld it to the can. The can stove is designed for a horizontal position.

Weld legs to it and put it where the potbelly stove will heat the house, garage. This is a very flammable device, so place it on a metal sheet and at least half a meter from wooden structures.

The disadvantage of the stove: you can’t even heat the kettle on it - there’s nothing to put on. And yet it will be an effective potbelly stove with your own hands, and read about the improvements below.

barrel stove

She will correct the situation, and even cook borscht and fry cutlets on this potbelly stove. Not only an old barrel is suitable, but it is better if it is a decommissioned 50 liter gas cylinder.

His walls are thicker, they will heat up a little longer, but they will also hold more heat. This is the perfect sauna heater. And if you impose sea or river pebbles, other strong stones, then it will be easy to raise steam in the room.

It will stand upright. The blower will also have enough space, and a lot of firewood can be laid in the firebox above it. The exhaust pipe can be made not straight, but with knees for a greater return of thermal energy in the steam room.

If a potbelly stove is necessary for a country house, then weld a metal platform on top, you will cook food and cook tea on it.

Preservation of heat in a potbelly stove

To do this, it is necessary to overlay two-thirds of its parts with refractory bricks, placing it on horizontal ribs, leaving free access to the firebox and blower. It will be a heat shield that will keep the generated energy much longer. Holes must be drilled in bricks for better heat transfer.

The second option: a potbelly stove plus a water heater. Scald the gas cylinder from which the stove is made with sheet steel of at least three millimeters thick.

So that in the resulting container can hold at least 30 liters of water. Weld the water inlet and outlet pipes to it, connect the pipelines for heating the adjacent room. For better convection, connect a small circulation pump.

Propane stove

The ideal stove is a do-it-yourself gas stove. She does not need a chimney, because no smoke is released when the gas is burned. Its analogue is a room gas stove with an oven.

It is not difficult to make - take ... a ready-made potbelly stove, insert a steel pipeline with a nozzle from an old gas stove into it. Connect it to a standard gas hose with a reducer from a household gas cylinder.

There is no exact consumption for a potbelly stove, you can navigate the stove for 4 burners. The capacity of the cylinder (for 50 liters) with 21 kg of propane-butane is enough for 34 hours of operation of such a stove.

DIY potbelly stove photo

A small country house, garage or workshop can be heated with a small compact metal stove called a potbelly stove. It can be made both from an old steel pipe, a gas cylinder, a barrel and even an old flask, or welded from sheets of metal. The most important thing is that the metal for the manufacture of such a furnace is not too thin.

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder, an old flask, barrels and a spent fuel stove

Materials and tools

To create a potbelly stove you will need:
metal with a thickness of 3 ± 0.5 mm: thinner sheets will burn out quickly, in addition, under the influence of high temperature they can lead, and the furnace will become shapeless; thick-walled metal will warm up for a very long time;
chimney pipe;
bars 16 mm;
a sheet of metal with a thickness of 0.3 mm or more for the device of a box for collecting ash;
tape measure, ruler, chalk;
welding machine 140-200A;
grinder for cutting metal; for making round holes it is more convenient to use a gas cutter;
metal brush for cleaning welding spots;
emery wheel for fitting doors;
drill and drills.

Bourgeois schemes

The main advantage of the rectangular stove, unlike oval products made of pipes or gas cylinders, consists in a larger heated surface area, so its efficiency will be much greater. The optimal size for a potbelly stove is 800x450x450 mm. An oven of this size does not take up much space and can easily fit even in a small room.

The simplest design is the Gnome stove, which consists of a box with a pipe welded to it.

An important difference loginov ovens is the presence of two plates ( reflectors) in the upper part of the furnace compartment. Because path of gases at the same time, the heat transfer of such a potbelly stove is significantly higher than that of a conventional metal furnace.

Advice. If it is required to reduce the size of the Loginov furnace, then it is desirable to change only its width. When changing the length and height of the structure, its efficiency can be significantly reduced.

Detailed diagram of Loginov's potbelly stove

The main stages in the manufacture of potbelly stoves

1. All details are marked on a sheet of metal: 6 steel rectangles for the walls of the furnace, 1 rectangle for creating a smoke reflector, plates for the grate and a latch for the door.
2. cut out a sheet of metal is possible at any metal base. The guillotine, unlike the grinder, allows you to cut (chop) it more accurately. In this case, straightening (aligning sheets) will not have to be done.
3. The furnace body is made in the form of a rectangle. Their sides are joined together at an angle of 90 ° and welded together.

Box welding

4. To avoid mistakes, the oven box is first only tacked by welding in several places, and only then, after checking its horizontal and vertical, its seams are welded.

Important! All connections in the body are carefully welded; to check seams for tightness, you can coat the joints with chalk or kerosene.

5. Welding seams are cleaned with a metal brush.
6. The internal space of the potbelly stove is divided into three parts: a firebox, a smoke chamber and an ash pan. To separate the firebox from the ashpit, a grate is laid between them, on which the fuel will be placed. To do this, at a height of 10-15 cm from the bottom of the furnace from the sides and on the back of the box are welded corners 5x5 cm on which the lattice will be located.

Advice. The grate is best made from 2-3 detachable parts. Otherwise, when replacing a burned-out grate, it will be difficult to get it out of the furnace.

7. The grating is welded from thick steel bars or strips 30 mm wide. They are attached to 2 stiffeners - rods with a diameter of 20 mm. Since the grate burns out over time, it is better to make such a grate removable.

Making a grate

8. At a distance of 15 cm from the top of the box, two strong rods are welded on which will be placed one or two removable reflectors- thick-walled metal sheets that will delay the flow of hot gases and send them for afterburning. However, they should not completely block the oven. In order for hot smoke to be able to enter the pipe, about 8 cm is indented from the front (for the first sheet) and the back of the furnace.

Scheme of the passage of gases in the simplest potbelly stove and a furnace with an installed reflector

pipe hole

10. The front part of the stove with holes cut out in it for the doors of the furnace and ash pan, is welded last.
11. The size of the firebox door should be sufficient so that it is possible to load fuel and change the grate without effort. The hole for the ash pan is made a little smaller.
12. The hinges are first welded to the door, and then to the potbelly stove body. They can be bought ready-made or welded from two tubes of different diameters. Door handles can be made from a strip of metal or a bar.

Door welding

Important! When attaching doors, fit them to the body as tight as possible; for this, they are straightened (aligned) and cleaned with an emery wheel. The wedge locks that close the doors are fitted to the body as tightly as possible.

13. On such an oven you can cook food or warm water. To do this, a hole of the required diameter is cut in the upper part of the box. Burner for oven, which will be inserted into this hole, can be purchased at any hardware store.
14. For ease of use design mounted on legs or a welded pipe stand.
15. The chimney is connected to the stove using a sleeve.
16. For inserting a slide gate, regulating the exit of smoke, two holes are drilled in the pipe. A metal rod is inserted into the holes and bent at 90 °. A "penny" made of metal is attached to it in the center of the pipe - a gate, the diameter of which should be slightly less than the diameter of the pipe itself by 3-4 mm.

Smoke damper

Chimney device

So that precious heat does not leave too quickly through the pipe, it must have a special design. Such a device has two main parts: vertical height from 1.2 m, installed at an angle of 90 ° above the furnace and an inclined part, called upland, 2.5-4.5 m long or more, in which the smoke burns out. It is the hog that gives up to 1/4 of the heat of the entire furnace.

Chimney Hogs

A tall person can touch a heated pipe, so the bur must have a protective cover in the form of a mesh. To avoid burns, the distance from the floor to this pipe should be 2.2 m. The vertical part of the pipe coming from the furnace is additionally wrapped with thermal insulation.

Important! The pipe should be located away from the plastered walls at a distance of 1.2 m. The distance from wooden structures is 1.5 m.

Advice. Laying a pipe through a wooden ceiling and roof is a rather laborious process. It is much easier to bring it out through a hole in the wall or window.

Smoke outlet through the window

Rules for the safe installation of a metal furnace

A potbelly stove heats up much more strongly than a brick oven, so all flammable objects should be at a sufficient distance from the stove. If the floor in the room is wooden, it is installed only on bricks or a metal sheet. The metal, in turn, is laid on a sheet of asbestos with its removal 35 cm or more from the edges of the stove. In front of the firebox, it should protrude 5.5 cm. Asbestos can be replaced with felt soaked in clay. You can also install such a screen to reflect heat on concrete.

Important! A working oven requires supervision. You should not leave the room where the potbelly stove is heated for a long time.

Installing a potbelly stove on a brick base

Increasing the efficiency of the furnace

The potbelly stove is able to heat the room in just a few minutes. Moreover, everything that comes to hand can be thrown into the furnace: since it does not have an extensive network of chimneys, and the smoke in it comes out “directly”, you can not be afraid that they will clog.

But if a conventional heating stove installed in premises for permanent residence has an extensive network of chimneys that trap heat, in a potbelly stove it goes directly into the pipe, so its efficiency is not too high. That is why it is too "gluttonous" and requires a lot of fuel.

To reduce fuel consumption, you can use the following tips from experienced stove-makers:
firebox door and blower in such an oven should be as tight as possible; otherwise, the air supply to the potbelly stove will increase, and the fuel will burn out too quickly;
to regulate the output of warm smoke in the chimney it is desirable to provide a gate valve;
next to the oven, you can provide side metal screens at a distance of 5-6 cm from the stove, in which case it will heat the room not only due to heat radiation, but also with the help of convection (warm air circulation);
a potbelly stove, “dressed” in a metal casing, will help keep the heat much longer;

Potbelly stove in a casing

Round furnace with an afterburner and a casing with a heat gun

To retain heat in the room, it is necessary to increase the elbow in the pipe; however, at the same time, soot will linger in them, therefore it is desirable to create a collapsible structure;
the pipe can also be given a stepped shape: place the knees in stages, with each step making a turn of 30 °; at the same time, each of the knees must be securely attached with bars to the wall;

Stove with chimney elbows

chimney capacity should be less than the productivity of the furnace itself, in which case hot gases will not go into the pipe immediately; its diameter should be only 2.7 times larger than the volume of the furnace, for example, with a furnace volume of 40 liters, the diameter should be 110 mm;
you can increase the efficiency of the furnace and with the help of blowing the chimney with a fan- this will turn the stove into a kind of smoke gun;
to reduce air circulation firewood in the oven should fit as tightly as possible; if it is heated with coal, it is necessary to stir up the resulting ash as rarely as possible;
to adjust the air flow, the door to the blower can be made adjustable by providing it with vertically located slots and shutter, which will cover these gaps;
to increase the heating area, it can be ribbed, that is, welded onto its body perpendicular to the furnace metal strips;
if you put steam on the stove buckets or metal box with sand, then they will accumulate heat and store it even after the furnace is extinguished; sand backfill or heat accumulator made of stones can be sewn inside the metal body of the furnace;

Scheme of a potbelly stove with sand filling, the furnace is made of a pipe with a diameter of 500 mm, its length is 650 mm

Bake, lined with 1-2 layers of brick, will keep warm much longer;

brick screen

The volume of the furnace also matters: the more the area of ​​its walls, the more heat they will give into the room;
bricks or sheet metal, on which the stove is installed, will help not only to protect the room from fire, but also to keep warm.