Dismantling of the old floor screed. How best to dismantle the floor screed

• What is a floor screed?
• Dismantling or restoration?
• Functions and cost of floor screed
• Types of surface screed
• Do-it-yourself screed preparation and removal
• The consequences of removing the screed

How to remove the old floor screed? The beginning of repair is a huge test for everyone. And for those who decided on a major overhaul, especially. Many factors should be taken into account, all the pros and cons should be weighed before proceeding with the repair. In any case, you need to consult with experts in this field so that they can tell you where you can do it on your own, and where you will definitely need the services of masters.

What is a floor screed?

The coating, usually strong, located in the gap between the reinforced concrete tile and the final floor covering, is called screed. Through this coating, the floors are leveled, all cracks and cracks are filled. Between the screed and the top layer of the floor, there is usually a layer of heat-noise or waterproofing. There may also be reinforcement under the screed. These layers are not very durable, and it is not so difficult to remove them. It is worth remembering that at the time of dismantling, do not overdo it and do not damage the load-bearing walls by punching a hole in them.

The screed can be monolithic (from a cement-sand mixture) or composite (from several layers of gypsum cement or expanded clay concrete). To obtain maximum strength, a monolithic screed can be reinforced with a metal mesh. The qualitative composition of the floor screed affects its strength, load, hydro- and thermal insulation properties. Among the dismantling works to remove various structural elements, one of the most popular types is the dismantling of the floor screed.

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Dismantling work can be done independently when the problem and its solution are obvious. It is not recommended to get down to business if you do not have any skills in the field of construction. It is better to invite experts.

The scheme of restoration of the concrete screed.

Over time, any floor covering becomes unusable. Concrete begins to crumble, flake and crack. At this point, it is worth deciding whether to remove the old screed or whether it is suitable for restoration. Most often, dismantling is carried out. This procedure is much cheaper than restoration. There are criteria that you should pay attention to when making a decision:

1. If necessary, lower the floor level.
2. Very unsatisfactory condition of the floor, so much so that it would be cheaper to install a new one.
3. Poor quality cement was used.
4. If it is necessary to repair communications or pipes under the floor, as well as if new pipes need to be installed.
5. Sufficiently fragile floors of the lower rooms that cannot withstand another coating.
6. The use of jackhammers is dangerous.

In houses built before the mid-50s, the floors are wooden or mixed (wooden flooring on metal beams with reinforced concrete sections in bathrooms and bathrooms).

The dismantling of the concrete floor has its own characteristics: if you dismantled it and want to pour a new concrete screed, then this will most likely be considered unacceptable, since the mass of the solution in the aggregate will be very heavy and the load on the floors will significantly exceed the allowable one. In this case, the right decision would be to choose a screed made of lightweight materials.

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Floor screed is inherently of great importance, and its presence in any building is mandatory. Main functions:

Types of floor screeds.

1. Distribution of heat throughout the floor, in case there is heating under them.
2. Protection of floors from all kinds of deformations.
3. Leveling the floor, eliminating various roughness and cracks.
4. Sound and heat insulation function.
5. It takes on the load on the supporting structures, which significantly extends the life of the latter.

Given various factors, the price can vary from low to very high. What to take into account:

• screed height;
• type of material used: concrete or cement;
• work area;
• whether there is reinforcement or not.

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There are the following types of screed:

• multilayer screed;
• full screed.

The more layers used, the higher the price of dismantling, since there is much more work.

When removing any type of screed, all factors should be considered. Depending on this, a tool for dismantling will be selected. It can be a concrete cutting machine or an impact tool. Or the removal of the screed will be done manually.

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If, nevertheless, it was decided to remove the screed on your own, then first of all, all obstacles in front of it should be removed. It can be linoleum, laminate, parquet or carpet.

The scheme of dismantling the old screed.

Various tools are used for removal. At home, you can use a sledgehammer, crowbar, hammer - it all depends on the thickness of the coating. After the preparatory work has been successfully done and all the protective layers have been removed, you can directly proceed to the removal of the screed itself.

For high-quality floor screed removal on your own, you will need to choose the right tool. There are several different ways to remove. The shock method is the noisiest and most unsafe for floors, which can cause damage to the entire house and neighbors. In addition, it will require the use of great physical strength, which can be very dangerous for health. Using a joint cutter tool, you can remove a screed up to 30 cm deep, reinforcement for it, as a rule, is not an obstacle.

The tools used to remove the old mortar from the floor can be divided into manual and electric. Dismantling the floor with the use of electrical devices significantly increases productivity. But such a dismantling of the screed will also have an increased price. Power tools that remove hardened mortar well include:

• concrete hammer;
• perforator;
• various tools for diamond cutting and drilling;
• joint cutter for reinforced coatings.

When using the impact method, perforators, jackhammers, grinders are used. As a rule, all these devices produce a lot of noise.

For those who are used to relying on their own strength, we offer:

• a hammer;
• chisel;
• sledgehammer.

The question arises: why do everything manually when there are electrical appliances? This is necessary in those places where there is no electricity or the work is small. This is a slow and very noisy process, but these tools can always come in handy as an aid.

You will need special clothing, a helmet, a respirator and goggles, as there will be a lot of dust.

The dismantling of the concrete floor in any way is carried out by breaking the base into pieces.

For the removal and removal of cement-concrete residues, stock up on bags of durable material in advance.

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Since this is a noisy process, if you live in an apartment building, you should talk to your neighbors in advance and warn them about the upcoming work.

In addition, dismantling takes place with a huge amount of dust and debris formed from the removed layer of cement or concrete.

Undoubtedly, removing the screed on your own is a rather laborious process that will take a lot of time and effort. But if you approach this process correctly, you can not only gain invaluable experience, but also save a decent amount of money, which can later be spent on something more necessary.

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How to remove concrete

Over time, a poor-quality stitch can crack, swell, and undergo other deformation. To remedy this situation, you need to remove the old layer of concrete and pour a new screed.

• - chipper;
• - containers;
• - a device for supplying water.

Do not proceed with the removal of the concrete screed until you analyze all the existing defects and the reasons that led to the deformation. As a rule, obvious defects are visible to the naked eye, but to identify hidden ones you need to work a little. For example, if a dull sound is made when tapping, then this is evidence that the screed is poorly bonded to the base. In some cases, partial removal of the concrete screed is allowed, followed by its patching. One of the defects of the concrete screed is its unevenness, increased dust formation, as well as a high humidity coefficient. Moisture accumulating in the screed is especially dangerous when laying laminate, parquet and other wooden floor coverings. If a manifestation of this defect is noticed, be sure to remove the entire screed: it cannot be saved. Having determined the forthcoming scope of work (partial or complete removal of the concrete screed), proceed to their implementation. Dismantle the screed using a chipper, breaking the concrete into small pieces. Immediately load the broken concrete pieces into containers (this will significantly reduce the time for dismantling, since there will be no need to constantly rake up the broken pieces and see how much area remains to be broken). Remove the weak layer of screed with high pressure water, i.e. by hydraulic breaking. Such an effect of a water jet can be selective: with the right setting, a well-made concrete screed will remain intact, and a defective one will be washed with water. Be careful: dismantling work performed using a chipper requires basic safety measures. After removing the defective concrete screed and pouring a new layer, do not neglect the proper care of the concrete surface. As a rule, peeling of a concrete screed occurs for various reasons: for example, the rapid drying of the screed caused by high indoor temperatures, a small thickness of the concrete screed layer and other factors can be the cause. Constantly moisten the screed - this will prevent delamination and cracking.

• Recommendations for the repair of concrete screeds in 2017
• how to remove a concrete screed in 2017

A septic tank is a device designed for clarification and subsequent discharge of wastewater into the soil. In addition, the septic tank does not need to be cleaned for a long time, takes up less space, and does not require large amounts of electricity.

• shovel, boards, pipes, metal fittings, tee, sand, cement, nails, box

Dig a hole measuring 2.5 x 3.5 m. This volume will be enough for a family of four. Downsizing is not desirable as they are minimal. Make formwork around the entire perimeter of the septic tank. Use old inch boards as formwork material. Divide the hole into two chambers. In the planned line, make a double-sided formwork. You will get a partition into which you need to insert a tee. In this case, the upper edge of the tee must be located where the lower edge of the drain pipe passes. Install the box. Insert a drain pipe into it. Fill the space between the soil and the formwork with a solution of sand and cement. For greater strength, you can resort to reinforcement. From above, make the flooring from the boards. Moreover, if you do not plan to re-lay the boards, the formwork should not be removed. If you plan to remove the formwork, the concrete should dry well for three days. Lay the rebar on the deck boards, securing with nails. The strength and durability of the septic tank cover will depend on the amount of metal applied. Insert the formwork along the perimeter and place two pipes in the resulting floor. One pipe will serve as ventilation, the other - for pumping. Fill the lid with concrete. Desirable thickness - 200 mm. For greater strength, a small stone filler can be added to the solution. In addition, this will reduce the consumption of the solution. Two days later, the lid of the septic tank can be covered with earth, and shrubs can be planted on top. Any vegetation can be planted on the site above the septic tank, but it is better to place a greenhouse or greenhouse. Concrete is the main material used in construction to create structures. In many ways, how durable the objects made of it will be depends on the exact observance of the laying technology, on which surface and at what temperature the concrete is laid.
First of all, it is necessary to prepare the surface on which the concrete will be laid. Clean it of dust, dirt and debris. If it is uneven, then you may need a shovel or a jackhammer to level it. It should also be remembered that crushed stone for concrete preparation must also be clean. On the prepared surface, install the formwork into which the concrete will be poured directly. It can be wooden or iron. If you made it from wood, be sure to moisten the boards with water before laying so that the moisture from the concrete does not absorb into the wood. Iron formwork does not need to be wetted. There are three ways to place concrete: compacted, poured and supported. Casting can be used when the concrete mixture contains superplasticizers. Concrete is usually laid in horizontal layers in one direction up to fifty centimeters in height. The concreting process should ideally go on continuously so that the laying of each subsequent layer begins before the previous one begins to dry out. During construction work on a large scale, it is impossible to avoid interruptions in the laying of concrete, therefore working seams are made in places where they will not affect the strength of the entire structure. In order for the concrete to be more dense, it is compacted with an electric vibrating screed. Its vibrations give concrete greater fluidity, possible delamination of concrete is eliminated, and it becomes stronger and more durable. Concrete immediately after laying is covered with a dense cloth, which is moistened and kept moist until the concrete sets. After ten days, the formwork can be removed. And the full load on the concrete structure can be carried out only after the concrete has completely hardened. Preparing concrete for pouring in concrete mixers. Depending on the strength of the structure you need, choose the brand of concrete, the amount of water that is added to it. For load-bearing structures, they take more rigid concrete and make it very thick. Dropping concrete to a height of more than two meters should only occur when using vibration chutes, since when dropped freely to such a height, concrete can delaminate, which is unacceptable.

When laying concrete in the cold season, the structure will have to be heated.

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Dismantling the old floor screed

A durable coating, which is an intermediate layer between a reinforced concrete slab and a finished floor covering, is called a floor screed. According to its functions, this coating should be strong enough. With the help of a screed, seams, voids and cracks are filled, the unevenness of the floor is eliminated. Self-levelling floors are also called screed.

The main thing to remember is not to overdo it and not to make a hole in the floors with a heavy tool and not damage the load-bearing walls.

Why remove the old floor and make a new one? Over time, the concrete screed ceases to fulfill its functions, the concrete peels off, crumbles, and becomes covered with cracks. And before starting repair work, the task arises of how to remove the old floor screed without damaging it and spending a minimum of effort. Removing an old concrete floor is usually cheaper than refurbishing it. But still, before starting to dismantle the screed, it will not be superfluous to make sure that it is impossible to repair the old cement. Work in which all old mortar is removed from the floor is necessary if:

• The floor is already very cracked and cannot be restored (for example, due to the use of low-quality cement). In this case, removing the cement is not difficult.
• In the event that a lowering of the floor level is required.
• When it is necessary to repair, replace or for the first time put some communications under the floor, make a warm floor.
• The condition of the old floor is so unsatisfactory that it is better to install a new one than to try to repair the existing one.

The ceilings of the lower rooms may not withstand if a new screed is made on top of the old one. Using jackhammers to remove old mortar is also dangerous.

Preparatory work

Scheme of the floor screed device.

In the manufacture of concrete floors in houses, various materials are often used, but mostly concrete (cement with various impurities) is used for the screed. The larger the building, the higher the grade of cement used to create the mortar. As a material, concrete is not inferior to stone in its strength, so a tool will be needed more seriously than a simple hammer. The best way to get rid of this coating is diamond cutting. Which method is better - diamond cutting or drilling - depends on the specific case.

See also: How to plaster foam blocks?

Using jackhammers and other impact tools to remove the hardened mortar is also very effective.

The main rule is not to overdo it and not to make a hole in the floors with such a heavy tool, and also not to damage the load-bearing walls.

No matter how the floor is dismantled, it begins with preparatory work in the form of removing skirting boards and old flooring. To carry out these actions, special rules are not observed and no special tool is required. If the old coating is supposed to be used somewhere else in the future, then it should be removed carefully.

Tool and means of protection

Floor construction with self-levelling screed.

For high-quality floor screed removal, you will need to choose the right tool. A screed cutter can remove a screed up to 30 cm deep, reinforcement for it, as a rule, is not a hindrance. When using the impact method, perforators, jackhammers, grinders are used. The shock method is the noisiest and most unsafe for floors.

The tools used to remove the old mortar from the floor can be divided into manual and electric. Power tools that remove hardened mortar well include a concrete hammer, a hammer drill, various tools for diamond cutting and drilling, and a joint cutter for reinforced coatings. As a rule, all these devices produce a lot of noise.

For those who are used to relying on their own strength, a crowbar, a hammer, a chisel and a sledgehammer are offered. The question arises: why do everything manually when there are electrical appliances? This is necessary in places where there is no electricity, or the work is small. This is a slow and very noisy process, but these tools can always come in handy as an aid.

Work in which the old floor is removed is unhealthy. Most often, a lot of additional cleaning is required, since the mortar and cement hide additional layers of insulation underneath: mineral wool, sand or chipboard. Workers are required to wear masks, respirators, hard hats and earmuffs.

List of required tools:

• protective equipment: goggles, helmet, respirator, overalls;
• durable garbage bags;
• tool for basic work to choose from.

Dismantling the old floor screed is a very laborious process. It requires special tools and experience in repair work. Of course, to break, not to build, but after all, destroying everything in a row is no good. With extra effort, you can make a hole in the ceiling, but how then to close it? And the neighbors below will not be happy with a hole in the ceiling instead of a beautiful chandelier. If you doubt that you will cope with such work, then it is better to invite professionals. Let them have to pay for their work, but you will have a guarantee that you will not harm yourself or people. If you are confident in your abilities, then we will try to carry out the dismantling by joint efforts.

First, it is necessary to establish precisely that these works are really needed. Even if you have planned a major overhaul, then before you start breaking everything, carefully look at how necessary it is to dismantle the old screed. It may be possible to repair the old one.

Let's see in what cases the old screed is removed:

• the screed is badly cracked and cannot be restored;
• lowering the floor level is required;
• installation or repair of communications under the screed is necessary;
• the condition of the old screed is so unsatisfactory that it is not possible to lay a new floor covering on it;
• old ceilings may not withstand if a new one is poured over the old screed.

Dismantling of concrete screed

You will most likely have to figure out how to remove the concrete screed, since floors in residential buildings are mostly made of concrete. What is concrete? This is a material that resembles a stone in its strength and you simply will not be able to split it with the same hammer. The best way to get rid of this coating is diamond cutting. Professionals have such equipment, but you are unlikely to spend big money on buying this tool, especially since you are unlikely to ever need it again.

In any case, dismantling begins with the removal of skirting boards and old flooring: carpet, linoleum, laminate. You can easily do these works yourself, and they do not require any special conditions. When performing these works, it is really possible to break and destroy. If you decide to keep the flooring in order to lay it, for example, in the country, then you need to carefully remove it. In any case, you will not cause harm to neighbors, except for noise.

After more or less quiet work, you have to fight with concrete. You are offered a choice of two options: using hand power tools and purely manual work. Hand power tools: concrete hammer, hammer drill, diamond cutting device will speed up the work, but will make a lot of noise. If metal-reinforced coatings get in your way, you will also need a special joint cutter.

Fans of manual labor can use a crowbar, hammer, sledgehammer, chisel. You will have slow work, very loud, dusty, but cheap. What is better for neighbors: loud, but fast or loud, but long? Decide for yourself. In any case, the dismantling of the cement-sand screed is carried out by one method: breaking the concrete into pieces.

During dismantling, be prepared for a lot of dust, dirt, pieces of concrete, old fittings and incredible noise. Stock up not only with a tool, but also with garbage bags, patience and the consent of housemates. The noise of the jackhammer will be heard on all floors, so warn everyone in advance and agree on a schedule for your noisy work.

Before starting a noisy campaign, make sure once again that such repairs are worthwhile. It is possible that it can still be repaired or replaced in parts. Try to do all the work with the least loss for yourself and for your neighbors.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e90VeF4bBNI Video can "t be loaded: 1 Getting rid of the screed Leader Group (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e90VeF4bBNI)

A durable coating, which is an intermediate layer between a reinforced concrete slab and a finished floor covering, is called a floor screed. According to its functions, this coating should be strong enough. With the help of a screed, seams, voids and cracks are filled, the unevenness of the floor is eliminated. Self-levelling floors are also called screed.

The main thing to remember is not to overdo it and not to make a hole in the floors with a heavy tool and not damage the load-bearing walls.

Why remove the old floor and make a new one? Over time, it ceases to fulfill its functions, the concrete peels off, crumbles, becomes covered with cracks. And before starting repair work, the task arises of how to remove the old floor screed without damaging it and spending a minimum of effort. Removing an old concrete floor is usually cheaper than refurbishing it. But still, before starting to dismantle the screed, it will not be superfluous to make sure that it is impossible to repair the old cement. Work in which all old mortar is removed from the floor is necessary if:

• The floor is already very cracked and cannot be restored (for example, due to the use of low-quality cement). In this case, removing the cement is not difficult.
• In the event that a lowering of the floor level is required.
• When it is necessary to repair, replace or for the first time put some communications under the floor, make a warm floor.
• The condition of the old floor is so unsatisfactory that it is better to install a new one than to try to repair the existing one.

The ceilings of the lower rooms may not withstand if a new screed is made on top of the old one. Using jackhammers to remove old mortar is also dangerous.

Preparatory work

Scheme of the floor screed device.

In the manufacture of concrete floors in houses, various materials are often used, but mostly concrete (cement with various impurities) is used for the screed. The larger the building, the higher the grade of cement used to create the mortar. As a material, concrete is not inferior to stone in its strength, so a tool will be needed more seriously than a simple hammer. The best way to get rid of this coating is diamond cutting. Which method is better - diamond cutting or drilling - depends on the specific case.

Using jackhammers and other impact tools to remove the hardened mortar is also very effective.

The main rule is not to overdo it and not to make a hole in the floors with such a heavy tool, and also not to damage the load-bearing walls.

No matter how the floor is dismantled, it begins with preparatory work in the form of removing skirting boards and old flooring. To carry out these actions, special rules are not observed and no special tool is required. If the old coating is supposed to be used somewhere else in the future, then it should be removed carefully.

Tool and means of protection

Floor construction with self-levelling screed.

For high-quality removal, you need to choose the right tool. A screed cutter can remove a screed up to 30 cm deep, reinforcement for it, as a rule, is not a hindrance. When using the impact method, perforators, jackhammers, grinders are used. The shock method is the noisiest and most unsafe for floors.

The tools used to remove the old mortar from the floor can be divided into manual and electric. Power tools that remove hardened mortar well include a concrete hammer, a hammer drill, various tools for diamond cutting and drilling, and a joint cutter for reinforced coatings. As a rule, all these devices produce a lot of noise.

For those who are used to relying on their own strength, a crowbar, a hammer, a chisel and a sledgehammer are offered. The question arises: why do everything manually when there are electrical appliances? This is necessary in places where there is no electricity, or the work is small. This is a slow and very noisy process, but these tools can always come in handy as an aid.

Work in which the old floor is removed is unhealthy. Most often, a lot of additional cleaning is required, since the mortar and cement hide additional layers of insulation underneath: mineral wool, sand or chipboard. Workers are required to wear masks, respirators, hard hats and earmuffs.

List of required tools:

• protective equipment: goggles, helmet, respirator, overalls;
• durable garbage bags;
• tool for basic work to choose from.

Stages of work

The scheme of dismantling the screed.

Dismantling the screed can be done in several ways. The easiest, fastest, most common and inexpensive way is to remove the old cement with a blow. As a rule, they use it. The power of electric jackhammers must be correctly calculated and selected depending on the thickness of the layer to be removed.

But this method is applicable only if the concrete does not contain reinforcing elements.

Drilling and cutting methods are very popular in residential and public buildings. They are applicable when the screed is being dismantled in a certain area of ​​the floor, and besides, they are the least noisy. During the operation, the desired fragment of the concrete pavement is quickly cut out. This method is also better because cutting and drilling do not give additional loads on the bearing supports. Therefore, there is less risk of unforeseen damage. An undeniable advantage is that no dust is generated during diamond cutting and drilling, since the tool is continuously cooled by water during operation. Reinforced concrete floors can be dismantled in this way in the same way as an ordinary coating.

A concrete or cement screed is used to level the surface of the concrete subfloor before laying the final floor covering. How to remove the screed from the floor when it becomes unusable or it is time for a major overhaul, this issue affects many during repairs. The choice of method and the overall complexity of the operation depend on the type of screed, its thickness and the area of ​​the coating to be dismantled.

You can dismantle any screed - the difference is only in the complexity.

1. Wet floor screed. This classic method, proven for decades, is still widely used today, due to the low cost per square meter of the finished coating. It is applied to a base cleaned of dust, primed and dried. Requires the installation of damping tape along the perimeter of the junction with the walls for waterproofing and suppression of the spread of structure-borne noise.
   To increase the strength, a reinforcing mesh - metal or plastic - is laid in the screed.
   Requires additional leveling of the surface. The dismantling of such a screed is the most time-consuming, it requires crushing, sawing or milling a capital structure that is firmly connected to the ceiling and walls. Professional equipment is required, it is also difficult to remove residues after dismantling.
2. Dry screed. This is a fast technology, the screed material is poured between the lighthouse lags, rammed and covered with plywood or OSB sheets. It also requires sealing the cracks and cavities of the base, its waterproofing. It is important that the sheets rest not only on the logs, but also on the surface of the backfill material. Such a screed is more expensive than wet, it is more afraid of moisture.
   Dismantling of this design is easy - just unscrew the screws, remove the sheets and logs, immerse the backfill material in bags and take them out.
3. Semi-dry screed. It is carried out in a mechanized way, a large amount of fiber is added to the cement mixture. The solution with a small proportion of water is supplied to the surface by a pneumatic supercharger, after which it is rammed. The fiberglass increases the internal cohesion, so mesh reinforcement is not necessary. The cost is also high, due to the high cost of equipment and the involvement of qualified specialists. Dismantling such a screed is easier than wet and harder than dry.

Usually, when choosing a type, they don’t think about how to remove the concrete screed later, they don’t take into account the cost and laboriousness of its dismantling.

Relevance of dismantling

The strength of the screeds is always lower than that of the main building structures, and the daily loads on it are no lower. In addition, these loads are not constant, they occur in different places. Therefore, the screed wears out, and wears out unevenly. After a few years, zones stand out and weaken near the doors, where the flow of people passing by is concentrated, near kitchen equipment, plumbing fixtures, etc. The least wear is observed in the corners, where there is practically no variable load. In addition, the state of the screed is affected by periodic and constant displacements of the base elements, especially if it is assembled from several slabs.

During a major overhaul, the project almost always includes the dismantling of the old and the installation of a new screed. Often this is easier to do than to carry out fault detection, determining the degree of safety of individual sections and their suitability for further exploitation. Yes, and a new screed will last longer than a partially corrected one.

If the defects are obvious, for example, sedimentation of the coating along the junction of the plates or at the junction with the supporting wall or pillar, a partial dismantling is carried out with the installation of a new screed on the damaged area.

The old screed is dismantled if:

• base defects are found;
• numerous cracks are visible;
• found errors during installation;
• level down is required;
• installation (or replacement) of underfloor heating equipment is planned;
• it is necessary to replace the communications embedded inside the screed.

The dismantling of the old screed is physically difficult, time-consuming, a lot of waste and dust is generated in the process. They require professional equipment and specific skills.

There are cases when, with an acceptable state of the old screed, a new one is decided to be poured directly on top of the existing one. Such a decision should be taken with great care, especially if the thickness of the old screed is large. The total load on the floors may be unacceptable. In each individual case, a rigorous engineering calculation is required.

Features and methods of removing the screed

Removing a wet and semi-dry screed is reduced to mechanically breaking it into separate pieces by one method or another and removing these pieces.

The way in which the old screed can be removed from the floor is selected based on the thickness and material of the coating, the total area, thickness and material of the floor, the number and type of communications inside the screed and in the underlying floor.

With partial disassembly in a small area (corner of a room, toilet, etc.), you can get by with a hand tool, such as a chisel and a small sledgehammer.

If the thickness of the screed is more than 3 cm, or it is reinforced with a steel mesh, then serious aggregates cannot be dispensed with. To destroy the coating are used:

• pneumatic jackhammer;
• powerful perforator with a nozzle in the form of a spade or spatula;
• high power circular saw equipped with a diamond blade for working on stone and iron.

There is another way in which you can also remove the screed layer. It can be dismantled with a puncher or a circular saw in a limited area. On the scale of the apartment, you will have to use a jackhammer.

Before making a decision to start working with a puncher or a jackhammer, it is imperative to obtain the written consent of the residents of nearby apartments to carry out work on certain days and hours.

Tools and means of protection

The work will require a small number of tools and equipment, but it must be professional and high-performance, and the hand tool must be serviceable and reliable:

To destroy the screed you will need:

• jackhammer, compressor, hoses;
• if a compressor with an internal combustion engine is used, the length of the hoses should be enough from its installation site on the street to the farthest corner of the apartment;
• perforator with interchangeable nozzles;
• angle grinder with a diamond disc for the destruction of the reinforcing mesh;

To clean up construction debris:

• durable metal scoop;
• hard broom;
• estimate;
• construction vacuum cleaner;
• a large number of bags for collecting and disposing of waste or a construction sleeve fixed under the window;
• garbage container.

From personal protective equipment you will need:

• vibration-isolating gloves for working with a jackhammer or perforator;
• a large number of construction gloves for loading fragments into bags;
• construction helmet with integrated or separate vibration earpieces;
• stock of respirators;
• construction shoes with a steel toe cap.

For power tools, you should provide for a supply of consumables - discs, tips, perforating oil.

Preparatory work

Before reading the work, you need to make sure that there is an exact plan for all communications passing both in the screed and in the ceiling under it. When using powerful routers, circular saws, jackhammers, there is a significant risk of damage.

Therefore, ALL communications, even those that lie below the layer to be removed, must be turned off for the duration of the work: the electrical networks are de-energized, water or coolant must be drained from the pipelines.

During dismantling, a large amount of dust is generated, therefore, all furniture, equipment, household appliances, windows and all horizontal surfaces remaining in the apartment must be securely covered with polyethylene sheets or a special non-woven covering material.

At this stage, the state of the screed is assessed and the final decision is made - to repair it or replace it.

Stages of dismantling

Actually, the disassembly of the screed is divided into several stages:

1. Open a small piece of the coating, evaluate the actual thickness of the screed, the presence and quality of the reinforcing mesh, the presence and direction of communications (and the compliance of their location with existing plans). The measurement will provide an opportunity to assess the volume and duration of work, the amount of construction waste received.
2. Bypassing the communications routes, in several places destroy the screed with a jackhammer. Start removing the coating from the far corner of the room
3. Connect the starting points with strips of the removed screed, when the wall is cleared, move to the exit in the same way. Care must be taken not to destroy the overlap instead of the screed.
4. In order to notice in time and not damage communications, you should often put broken pieces in bags.
5. Periodically take out bags of garbage so as not to clutter up the room and not overload individual overlap points. It is not recommended to stack bags in several rows.
6. After removing the waste bags, sweep and vacuum the exposed floor.

Now you can start preparing for the device of a new screed.

Nuances of partial dismantling

In a number of cases, there is no need to completely dismantle the old screed.

For example, if you need to arrange a warm floor on a limited surface, or reduce the overall level. Apply the following sequence of actions:

1. A grinder or a circular saw with a diamond wheel for working on stone makes a large number of parallel cuts. It is more convenient to work with a saw because it has a mechanism for limiting the depth of cut, so they all come out the same.
2. It is better to connect a construction vacuum cleaner to the saw to remove the resulting dust.
3. Using a perforator with a spatula nozzle, carefully chop off the cut strips.
4. Remove the generated waste with a dustpan and a hard plastic whisk
5. Vacuum the cleaned area of ​​the floor.
6. To level the surface, fill it with a solution of the Vetonit type.

If it is necessary to remove a part of the screed that has a large thickness, you can use a construction router - a diamond-coated core drill. Holes are drilled over the entire area to be cleaned with a small indent, then the remaining partitions are broken with a perforator with a spatula nozzle.

Dismantling the old screed is a rather laborious and dusty undertaking. In order for it not to create problems, it must be coordinated with neighbors and carefully planned. For complete dismantling, pneumatic jackhammers are used, with partial dismantling, you can get by with a circular saw and a perforator.

In most cases, during repairs, it may be necessary to dismantle the concrete or cement floor screed. After all, it is easier to make a screed again than to fix problems with the old one, especially if there are a lot of them.

It should be noted right away that such work requires skills and abilities. Dismantling the floor screed can, of course, be done with your own hands, but in this case you risk getting unfinished or poor-quality work.

Our AlmazorezService company is ready to offer you a similar service.

Prices for dismantling the screed

Removing the screed from the floor

We are known for the fact that the dismantling of the floor screed, the price for which is the same everywhere, will be much lower with us.

But again, despite the significantly lower cost of the service, we offer you the performance of the work within a certain period agreed with you, as well as the delivery of the finished work in compliance with your requirements and wishes.

We are able to perform such work efficiently and quickly. And you can save a lot of money with us. Turning to us, you get:

• the work of real professionals with vast experience behind them;
• fast and high-quality order fulfillment;
• accuracy of meeting the requirements and desires of the customer.

Be sure to indicate that we undertake the most complex work. Surely you know that builders do not like to dismantle the concrete screed. We will easily take on such an order and fulfill it in the best possible way.

We have been working in this area for a long time and carried out a lot of orders that differ in different levels of complexity. Moreover, we dealt with screeds from various materials. Therefore, we can safely say that any order is within our reach.

Dismantling of a cement screed, concrete, any other will be carried out by us exactly on time, in the best possible way and with the required quality.

We had many similar orders, and not one of them was overdue or not fulfilled by us. We always approach our work responsibly, among us there are no amateurs or beginners. We employ only professionals who understand and love their work.

Our company offers a lot of different services that may be relevant at a construction site or repair, therefore, having learned and convinced of the quality of our work, you will certainly want to contact us again.