Proper installation of metal roofing. How to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands

Portal "Dachny Expert" expresses its gratitude to the company "Spets.Krovlya" for expert assistance in the preparation of this material.

Spets.Krovlya LLC is a reliable contractor for pitched roofs of any complexity. Guaranteed quality, clear deadlines and a fixed price, which is immediately spelled out in the contract and will not change!

A metal tile is a roofing material in the form of profiled steel sheets with a polymer coating. It is applied to a covering of roofs with an angle more than 14 degrees.

Outwardly, it looks like a classic ceramic tile, but surpasses it in reliability and ease of installation. In this article, we looked at which is better, ?

Material stable to temperature fluctuations and to other negative climatic influences. Its main disadvantage is low soundproofing characteristics, but it is eliminated with proper work.

In this article, you will learn how to make a metal tile roof with your own hands, step by step from A to Z. If you do not know how to choose a metal tile, then.

This stage of work should be given special attention, since it will be on the crate. Also, this design provides natural interior roof space.

1. Metal roofing is made from wooden beam. The mutual arrangement of the boards can be continuous and thinned.
2. Most commonly used sparse constructions, while the distance between the boards () is strictly tied to the distance between the lower depressions of the waves of the tiles, since in these places the material has the greatest strength.
3. Distance between the first two bars from the side of the slope should be approximately 70 centimeters less than the established step.
4. The minimum thickness and width of the board for the crate are 25 and 100 mm respectively.
5. The width of the board for the counter-lattice can be half as much. The first board from the edge of the roof should be 15-20 mm thicker than all the others.

NOTE!

boards pre calibrated in one size to avoid future distortions and irregularities in the location of the tiles.

Lathing step

The installation of the structure is carried out after completion . The main crate is attached to the counter-crate, which is connected to the truss frame with self-tapping screws. Additional support boards are laid on the roof ridge under the metal tile.

Calculation of metal tiles

Count the required amount of material for the construction of the roof is produced as follows (or use):

When counting the number of sheets in a row, you need to keep in mind the value overlap, which can reach 15-20 centimeters.

To ensure that there is no shortage of material, it is best to round all values ​​up.

Roof calculation

Metal roofing: waterproofing and vapor barrier

Before proceeding with the installation of metal tiles with your own hands, you should take care of isolation . Protection internal spaces from liquid provided with layers of vapor barrier and waterproofing.

Waterproofing is located between the rafters and the counter-lattice and prevents moisture from the environment from entering the inside of the roofing pie. Most common waterproof materials- These are polyethylene and reinforced films. They are stretched over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope with slight sagging. It is important to ensure that the waterproofing does not intersect with thermal insulation.

roofing cake

Vapor barrier is a protective layer does not let moisture into the interior of the roof generated in the premises. This is the lowest layer of the roofing pie, it is located under the rafters (it is attached to them) and thermal insulation, thereby protecting it from condensation.

A mansard roof made of metal tiles must necessarily be vapor-insulated with high quality; in cold roofs without insulation, the installation of a vapor barrier is not mandatory.

Necessary tools and equipment

Covering the roof with metal tiles begins with preparing the necessary tools. To install a metal roof, you will need:

• Screwdriver.
• Rail.
• Metal shears or other metal cutting devices such as nibblers, circular saws, etc.
• Construction stapler.
• Roulette and marker.
• The components of the roof and roofing cake: tile sheets, self-tapping screws, hydro-, steam- and heat-insulating materials, beams for battens and rafters.

NOTE!

When working with tiles you can't use grinder and other abrasive cutting tools, as this breaks the structure of the sheet.

Fastening and laying metal tiles - step by step

How to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands? Metal tile on self-tapping screws with a gasket made of ethylene-propylene rubber, which provides waterproofing of fastener areas.

If tiles with a hidden fastening are mounted, then galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened with optimal force.

If the holding force is insufficient moisture will get under the cap and cause it to corrode. If you tighten the screws too much, the gasket will deform, which will violate its tightness.

1. Before you cover the roof with a metal tile, you should make sure that the crate is symmetrical and reliable.
2. self-tapping screws screwed in in places of the lower deflection of the tile, they must enter strictly perpendicular to the plane of the boards of the crate.
3. When connecting two overlaps fastening is carried out in wave rises using shortened screws.
4. Installation of tiles begins from the lower left corner of the slope, subsequent sheets are stacked on top previous ones.
5. self-tapping screws screwed into each wave of tiles along the perimeter of the slope and in a checkerboard pattern in the interior areas. If a screwdriver is used for this, then its rotational effect on the material must be minimized.

Metal tile - do-it-yourself installation + instructions

Now you know how to properly lay a metal tile and we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the most important thing - instruction for the installation of metal tiles.

Installation of metal tiles - step by step instructions

How to properly cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands? The first step is .

It is on it that all other elements of the roof will be fixed. The system is constructed from wooden beams, while their size exceeds the dimensions of the crate bars.

The most important elements of the rafters are:

• Mauerlat. This is the fulcrum of the structure.
• rafter legs. They hold on to themselves and rely on the Mauerlat.
• Racks. Reinforce the support of the rafter legs.

The fastening of the rafters to the wall is carried out using the so-called tavern. These are metal strips that connect two structures with nails or self-tapping screws.

Next are installed basic insulating layers: insulation, steam and waterproofing. A waterproofing film or membrane is applied to the rafter system and fastened to it with a stapler. Thermal insulation is placed in cells, formed by the intersections of the rafters, and is fixed with the help of cords drawn crosswise in the lower plane of the rafters.

Rafter installation

After completing the installation of protective structures, you can proceed to the installation of the crate, on which, later, we will lay the roofing. She is superimposed over rafters and waterproofing layer and attached to the screws to these structures.

Do-it-yourself metal tile installation:

1. A cornice bar is attached to the frontal board, providing roof protection from the influence of the wind.
2. When performing work, the need to ensure good natural ventilation of the space is always taken into account. To do this, leave gaps between all layers of the roofing cake. The basis of natural ventilation is the possibility of free air circulation under the roof ridge.
3. The last step is installation of metal tiles. Please note that the sheets protrude beyond the edges of the crate by 5 centimeters and align horizontally along the cornice line.
4. ridge bar attached to additional two boards, which are installed at the junctions of two slopes during the installation of the crate. Such measures are necessary to ensure additional resistance of an important structural element to negative impacts.

metal roofing plan

• . They loosen the snow masses descending from the roof, making their fall relatively safe for building structures and for humans.
• Adjacency planks. These products frame the joints of tiles with all important structures such as chimneys and ventilation pipes.
• Corners and valleys. They protect all corner roof structures.
• low tides. Used to redirect the flow of rain and melt water.

Additional elements

• The distance between the beams of the truss frame should be no more than 60-90 centimeters otherwise the roof structure may sag.
• When performing work, shoes must be worn on soft sole and move along the tile, stepping into its lower deflections. This will prevent the material from bursting.
• The absence of contacts between the protective layers is important not only to ensure ventilation, but to prevent them. mechanical damage during friction.
• To provide additional ventilation, you can equip dormer windows in the attic.
• For level installation of all elongated trim pieces need to stretch the thread and fix it between two already installed structures.

This is how the technology of laying metal tiles on the roof looks like. This material has an service life of about 50 years, but without the need for repair work, operation will only take place if the installation is carried out correctly.

Useful video

Do-it-yourself metal tile laying in video format:

For high-quality and correct execution with your own hands, you need to know all the nuances and subtleties of this matter.

Among the many different colors for metal tiles on the market, you can easily choose a shade that will organically fit into the design of your site.

Before you begin to mount shingles on the roof, you need to make sure that its surface is even.

After that, it is necessary to make a calculation of the metal tile and correct the defects found during the inspection and measurement of the roof.

Start of roofing work

In order to, you will need:

• roulette;
• pencil;
• a hammer;
• screwdriver;
• duct tape;
• nails;
• self-tapping screws;
• bars, planks;
• hydro and thermal insulation.

Check the correctness and accuracy of the forms. To do this, measure the slopes (their diagonals) from one corner to another. Know that any warp in your roof can be straightened out by battening. And the skew from the ends can be removed if the additional elements are correctly mounted. The required slope of the roof must be at least 14 degrees relative to the ceiling line with a slope length of 6 m. If the slope length is more than 6-7 m, then the sheets are broken into 2-4 pieces and overlapped by 10 cm.

Scheme of the device of a roof from a metal tile.

In order to correctly calculate the required amount of metal tiles required for the arrangement of the roof, in addition to measuring the slopes, it is necessary to inspect the roof and find the perpendicularity of the ends in relation to the lines of the ridge and cornice. But this calculation is complicated by the fact that, unlike slate or sheet material, the upper and lower edges of metal tiles have clear contours.

During installation, sheets of this material cannot be interchanged, and if the structure of the roof being mounted has a broken line, then there is a large amount of waste and joints. Therefore, it is often necessary to trim the metal tile. When arranging this type of roofing at home, it should be borne in mind that the cut pieces may not be suitable in order to be correct (to cover hollows, scallops and slopes).

The choice of metal tiles

One of the important points in the calculation of the material is the shape of the tiles and the size of its wave. If there is an old coating on the roof, then it must be properly dismantled with your own hands in order to avoid inevitable collapse.

The base of the metal tile is a steel plate with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.7 mm. The top of the plate is covered with a passivating aluminum-zinc layer, on which two priming layers are applied.

At the very beginning of the work on laying the roof, it is necessary to install and remove all pipes and ventilation ducts. It is not necessary to carry out any facade or cladding work during the installation of the roof, as the inevitable splashes (from paint or mortar) can get on the roof and spoil its appearance. Removing spatter will definitely ruin the protective layer of the roof or lead to deformation of several sheets.

Consider before other similar materials used for roofing:

1. Service life up to 50 years.
2. Ease. The metal tile does not cause trouble during transportation and installation (during the ascent to the roof of the house).
3. Special accessories are easily accessible, which reduces the energy required for manual labor during installation.

Before it is correct, it is necessary to make a base (flooring) under it. Such a basis is called a crate. The entire installation can be started (both on the right and on the left) with, because its line serves as the basis for installing the entire crate.

roof lathing

Under the metal tile is installed in the range from 60 to 90 cm and depends on the type of tile used. It should match in size with the transverse edges of the sheet. Beams for rafters must be a section of at least 150 x 50 mm. The crate must be correctly made of boards no thinner than 100 x 25 mm in size, and their dimensions must be 25 x 50 mm or more.

The scheme of installation of metal tiles on the roof.

When the crate is installed, it is necessary to note in advance the fastenings of all additional parts located on the roof, which the design provides. In the place where the ridge board should be fixed, it is necessary to nail two boards over the rafters at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Around the attic windows (if any) and around the chimney, the crate should be solid. Sometimes they make overhangs (pedimental), in which case the horizontal crate is extended by the length of the overhangs, and the reinforcing beam is installed from the eaves to the ridge, an end beam covered with waterproofing is attached to it. Connecting boards are nailed between the beam and the end beam.

The crate, counter-crate and waves of the tiles are covered with an end beam, which is taken out from the walls and strengthened. Where negative angles are formed by the joints of the slopes, it is necessary to install valleys. Before mounting the lower valleys, a continuous crate is made of boards with a section of 150 x 25 mm. They are laid on both sides of the joints by 30 cm in length.

The resulting wooden gutter is covered with waterproofing from the inside. Between the valleys, a distance of 30 cm is observed, and they are fixed with self-tapping screws. In this case, the cornice board is located under the edge of the valley (lower). If the angle is too obtuse, then the valley is protected with additional waterproofing, which is laid along. The junction of the valleys horizontally assumes an overlap of 10 cm. A porous material is laid between the lower valley and the tiles, which self-expands and seals the joints.

Covering pipes with metal tiles

Scheme of the device for the exit of the pipe through the roof.

In the place where the chimney is supposed to be on the roof, the internal parts of the junction are equipped. For this:

• the appropriate size and color of the junction strip are selected;
• in the pipe they make a strobe with a depth of 15 mm and a slight upper slope;
• waterproofing (heat-resistant) is brought out to the pipe, and the cut is attached to the pipe with special adhesive tape, and the conclusion is made by 5 cm.

The place must be wrapped with foil. After covering the roof with tiles, an external apron is mounted. To do this, the upper junction bars are placed on the pipe, their outer part is placed in a strobe and insulated with a sealant, and the lower part of the bar is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate. Between the pipe and the rafters there is ventilation, which is ensured by the optimal distance between them.

To protect the brick pipe from cracking during heating, it is wrapped with a sheet of steel with a polymer coating. For ventilation, a gap of 2 cm is left. If the chimney is round, then it is isolated at the exit to the roof with a special construction tape, which self-expands and therefore seals the hole well along the entire diameter.

The standard step sizes are as follows: along the slope - 35 cm and across - from 18.5 to 19 cm. The step of the crate is determined from the bottom board (from its edge) to the middle of the next one. The boards are attached to the rafter legs with construction nails, and their length corresponds to the thickness of 2 beams. The first board (for the crate) should be 1-1.5 cm wider than the others.

Hydro and thermal insulation

In order to do it right, the first thing to do is to apply waterproofing and heat-insulating layers, which are inseparable elements and extend the service life of not only the material, but also the roof.

After that, you can proceed to the installation of the crate. Please note that the roof is protected from below with a heat-insulating film, and from above with a waterproofing sheath. The films are overlapped and secured with adhesive tape. The roof must be ventilated.

The technique of covering the roof with a metal tile involves fixing the waterproofing shell with the help of counter-bars, which are fixed on the rafters of the roof of the house. Sagging up to 20 mm is allowed between them. The cost of a metal tile roof depends on waterproofing, more precisely, on what material is used for this. If the film is covered with an absorbent layer, then it is expensive and of high quality. During installation, this layer should be directed towards the room.

Waterproofing protects the roof of the house from the formation of condensate, which is mainly collected under the metal tile and protects against leakage. The film is mounted with an overlap, and therefore it should be leveled and a black stripe applied to the edge, which helps to track flaws and deviations when gluing the waterproofing. After layering the waterproofing layer and fixing it, you can begin to mount the crate of the house with your own hands.

The scheme of installation of metal tiles on the roof of the house.

The next step is the laying of metal tiles, which can be done both on the left side and on the right. If we start work from the left edge, then each subsequent metal tile is laid under the wave of the previous tile, and the edge must be mounted along the eaves with a ledge of 4 cm.

Before installing the tiles, it is necessary to fix the cornice strip through the hooks for the drain. The cornice must be resistant to gusts of wind, and for this its tension must be maximum. A bar is attached to the frontal and cornice boards using self-tapping screws, which should be located 30 cm apart from each other. The length is 5-10 cm overlap. The cornice strip, which is considered a guide, is nailed along the roof overhang. Several sheets are fixed with a screw, after which they are aligned along the eaves and fixed with self-tapping screws.

The design of a roof made of metal tiles involves the use of connecting and fasteners, such as 8-sided self-tapping screws with a sealing washer. They are screwed strictly perpendicular to the surface of the roof of the house into the bend of the wave. For the correct calculation of the required number of self-tapping screws, it is taken into account that 6-7 pieces of 0.45 x 0.25 / 0.35 cm in size are fixed per 1 m2 of metal tiles.

Scheme of installation of a roof ridge for a metal tile.

After the vertical is set, go to the horizontal. During transverse laying, one wave is 200 mm, and during longitudinal laying, one overlap. The end plank is fixed over the laid wave of the metal tile (from the end), it should cover the tiles. The platband is fastened and fixed with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 200-300 mm. The plank makes the roofing stable from the effects of wind, and therefore the sheets do not break off the fasteners. In fact, a stable structure is mounted.

After fixing, the metal tiles hide the roof ridge, which is covered with a layer and fastened with construction nails to the crate. Next, the following work is carried out: the overlap on the tiled material is closed with a ridge element, which is attached with a 200 mm step. A sealant is placed between the ridge and the metal tile, but make sure that the ventilation holes are open.

After the ridge is fixed with self-tapping screws, the end must be closed with a plug. When in order not to damage the tiles, shoes should be with soft soles, and it is necessary to step into the deflection. During operation, the roof is cleaned of various debris 2 times a year. This work is done with a soft brush, but be careful not to damage the tiles.

The metal tile is an engineering and technical "alloy" of steel strength and the aesthetics of traditional roofing ceramics. Lightweight profiled sheets practically do not affect the weight of the building and delight installers with convenient dimensions.

A sure plus in the piggy bank of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle of roofing work without the paid participation of builders. Only first you need to find out how the roof is made of metal tiles with your own hands, and learn about the rules and intricacies of the process of its construction.

The corrugated metal sheets of the now popular coating are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled blanks are first immersed in hot zinc tanks, which forms an anti-corrosion film on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell that performs aesthetic and protective functions.

However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing pie is arranged with violations and errors. In the space under the coating, condensate will begin to accumulate, which will slowly but surely get to the metal. The insulation will get wet and lose its insulating qualities. Wooden elements get wet, as a result of which they rot.

Relying completely on light weight and an impressive area of ​​​​sheets of material is also not worth it: the rafter system must be strong enough, and the crate must be such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, you should properly prepare for the self-assembly of metal tiles, i.e. get acquainted with the nuances of the construction of the truss structure, lathing and roofing pie.

Rafter system and crate

Metal tiles are used in the arrangement of cold and insulated roofs. The truss system for the cold type can be built from steel or aluminum elements. But wood is still a priority, because it is easier to attach coating sheets to it. Insulated structures require more powerful roof trusses, because thermal insulation will be located between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, so warm roofs are arranged along wooden rafters with a crate.

Note that metal roofing is possible on pitched roofs with a minimum slope of 14º. The slope of the roofs is from 15º to 20º.

In the construction of a truss system for a warm roof with metal tiles, there are rules, these are:

• The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90 cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60cm. If the step of the existing truss system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
• The rafter system is arranged from a board 50 mm thick. The recommended board height is 100 or 150 mm depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
• Laid in a spacer between the rafter legs should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the device of the truss structure, then an additional counter-rail of 30 × 50 or 50 × 50 is stuffed onto the rafters along their direction. It will create a gap of 3-5cm.

In order to ensure ventilation of wooden elements, it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the rafter legs from the side. The formation of holes is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, they are advised to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

Before the construction of the crate, which works as the basis for fastening the sheets, the geometric parameters of the truss system should be checked. Measure and verify the length of the diagonals of rectangular slopes. On mansard roofs, the length of the diagonals of each part of the slope is separate. You need to control the horizontal position of the overhangs and the ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely detection of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

After making sure that the roof trusses are geometrically flawless, you can proceed to the construction of the crate, in the device of which, by analogy, clear rules apply:

• The first lath - the lowest rail on the overhang should be higher than the subsequent ordinary rails. For its construction, it is necessary to take a bar thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail 50x50, and for all subsequent 30x50.
• The initial rail of the crate should be clearly parallel to the line of the eaves.
• The step between the first and second bars is 28 or 30cm. The step between subsequent rails is 30, 35 or 40 cm. the step is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
• In the process of installing the lathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fasteners for pipes are installed.
• In the grooves, around the dormer windows, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous crate of boards is arranged.
• In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the cornice strip. Boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, before installing the crate, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting compound.

The crate plays not only the role of the basis for fastening the sheets, but at the same time performs another very important job. It forms ventilation channels through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

Ventilation ducts must remain free so that air flows under the metal sheets without interference and also exits. From the side of the overhangs and from the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from entering the roofing pie.

Structural roof boards

Cornice boards are used to reinforce the slope and give it cruelty in case the roof is planned to be equipped with an organized drain or to hem the overhangs with vinyl siding. In situations where filing is done with a corny board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

Cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the plane of the overhang remains unchanged and the height of the truss system does not increase. If it is planned to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut in the cornice board for their fastening. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the front board. They are used when the installation of a drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The installation step of all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

The frontal board is used if the roof does not have an organized drain. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for the end plank, the latter covers the waterproofing laid over the board. In addition to the decorative function, the plank nailed to the end board prevents the roof from rattling.

Time to hem the overhangs

Coating manufacturers strongly advise to hem overhangs with valves specially produced for this purpose, such as KTV or Vilpe. For filing cornices, siding, profiled sheet or vinyl spotlights are recommended. Dobora are on sale with the application of connecting details and with the instruction. You can economically hem a board attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

The specifics of the roofing cake

The composition and structure of the roofing pie under the metal tile depends on whether the structure will be insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if the attic is supposed to be hemmed.

The insulated roofing cake includes three standard layers, these are:

• Vapor barrier. It is located on the side of the future intake of household fumes, i.e. from within the truss system. Her job is to protect the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and they are connected into a single canvas with adhesive tape. Between the inner lining of the attic and the vapor barrier, a gap should be created by installing the crate.
• Thermal insulation. As a heater, mineral wool boards are most often used, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed at a distance between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation, the plates are cut with a width of 1.5-2 cm more than the distance between the rafters.
• Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against atmospheric precipitation. They lay it on the outside of the truss system in front of the batten, they try to arrange it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid, like a vapor barrier, in strips with a similar overlap and fastening methods.

The waterproofing layer is laid so that its canvas overlaps the lines of the walls along the perimeter by at least 20 cm. In the areas where the slopes join, in the valleys, laying is carried out with overlaps of 20-30 cm. Along the ridge line, the waterproofing must have a gap so as not to interfere with air circulation.

An important condition: bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as a waterproofing of a roofing cake when installing a roof made of metal tiles. Waterproofing must pass steam and condensate accumulated in the insulation.

The method of constructing a water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

• The classic version of waterproofing is reinforced or unreinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by the truss system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the crate and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5 cm.
• The superdiffusion membrane can work fine with a single ventilation gap of 3-5cm. It is created between the membrane and the metal tile. When using a polymeric material, there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is able to pass excess moisture out, preventing it from getting inside.
• Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washed with air, which should be provided with a path. Therefore, this option also needs dual-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is mainly used in the arrangement of cold roofs.

All types of insulating materials, except for polymeric waterproofing, are laid with sagging. So it is necessary that when the film is pulled, it does not break. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it tends to stretch.

Around the through passages through the roof, waterproofing is placed on the walls of communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, an additional waterproofing layer is recommended around pipes and other weakened areas of the roof.

Installation of parts before laying the coating

Before laying the metal tile, it is mandatory to install:

• Eaves strips, excluding the penetration of dust and debris into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape attached to the ends and the legs of the drain hooks. The slats are attached to the frontal and eaves board with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, these metal parts are installed with an interference fit.
• Cornice droppers, which are located under the waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from waterproofing.
• A lower valley that reinforces the protection of the concave corners of the roof. It is a metal corner that repeats the shape of the groove. It is mounted on top of a solid plank crate. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat grooves, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional strip of waterproofing. The lower valley is screwed with self-tapping screws every 30 cm. A porous sealant is covered over the lower valley.
• Protective bypass around chimneys crossing the roof. It is carried out using metal bypass strips, the upper edge of which is attached to a strobe formed in the pipe walls and treated with a sealant. Stitching into the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply when arranging adjoining walls.
• Lightning rod required for the safe operation of a metal roof.

The lightning rod system consists of three main parts. The first is a lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum bar Ø 12mm, from 20 cm to 1.5 m long. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wire Ø 6 mm welded to the lightning rod. They lay a down conductor along the crate and along the walls, lead to the ground. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of ​​1 m × 1 m, for example.

Rules for laying sheets of metal

Before laying profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting material to the roof. In order not to lift the coating one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage at the top. Even the home master will need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy in the process of moving along the roof. The work contractor is allowed to step only into the deflections of profiled waves.

When laying metal tiles, you can move even to the left, even to the right of the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the capillary groove overlaps with the sheet laid on top. The guideline for choosing the direction of laying is convenience. However, it is better to act in such a way that the element laid on top immediately fits under the extreme wave of the previous one and snaps into place with a capillary groove. This way it stays in place and doesn't slide off.

Typical installation sequence

Indisputable rules for the installation of metal tiles:

• Starting sheets are attached to the first lath through the wave on top of the transverse step of the cover. Their lower edge extends 5 cm beyond the eaves.
• All subsequent fastening of sheets is carried out in recessions of waves from below the transverse step.
• Along the end board, the profiled coating is attached to all waves.

Before fastening, it is necessary to carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is flawless, it is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the upper edge in the center. Then the second sheet is laid, leveled and temporarily fixed in the same way. Aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

Screwing to the crate is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily fixed. The block is fixed at all the required points. Only the outer sheet is not screwed to the crate, so that it remains possible to connect it with the next element.

The process of laying metal tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material will also have to be fastened to each other. Sheets in height are increased vertically.

Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, for a competent device of a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

Installation of sheets on slopes of a triangular shape:

• We find the center of the overhang and draw the central axis through it.
• We take the first sheet and do the same with it.
• We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, we verify the horizontal and vertical.
• Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the top edge.
• We install the sheets to the right and left of the central element of the coating in the usual way.

After fastening the corrugated sheets, the excess is cut off.

The convenience of trimming with marking material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes will provide a home-made "devil". It is built from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and are connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple fixture will help to accurately outline the cut segments.

Final installation work

After laying the wavy coating with a light soul, you can proceed to the finishing touches:

• Install passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing cake at the intersection points are sealed with adhesive tape. Butt joints are filled with sealant.
• Screw the end plate to the end board with self-tapping screws every 50-60 cm.
• Screw the top bar of the valley, having laid a self-expanding sealant on the coating beforehand.
• Build a horse. To do this, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge is glued on the outside with waterproofing of the Metalroll or Figarol brand. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through a convex comb. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

A drainage system, snow guards, service ladders and fencing, if planned, are installed on the laid coating.

A detailed video instruction will become an excellent consolidation of information about the device on the roof of a solid roof made of metal tiles with your own master's hands:

There are many nuances in the construction of a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complicated in technology. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the device and observe them so that you do not again have to change the roof to the next option.

Recently, metal tiles have been increasingly used for arranging the roofing part. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with a polymer coating. If desired, you can independently perform the installation of metal tiles. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.

Works on laying fragments of roofing

The products are based on a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special coating based on polymers. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

Enumeration of merits

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the following advantages:

• aesthetic appeal;
• weather resistance;
• affordable cost;
• lightness of the main elements.

Note! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their color range can vary over a fairly wide range.

A few shortcomings

Since the sheets have a small thickness with sufficiently large dimensions, there is still a risk of damage to them during careless installation. Subject to all the rules, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.

Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect during heavy rain during operation. However, with proper soundproofing of the living space, this minus is completely eliminated.

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Assembly tools

In advance, you need to prepare a set of tools and accessories for work:

Note! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, as high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

Basic set of additional parts

In the step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles, the main elements used in conjunction with sheets should be mentioned. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational features.

It is suggested to take a look at the list of basic parts:

• a skate is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
• the end plank is necessary to decorate the edges from the side of the gable overhangs;
• the valley is installed at the places where the slopes coincide;
• the eaves plank is attached from the side of the gutters;
• the junction bar is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
• a snow retaining element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

Installation instructions for metal tiles: step-by-step execution of work

Loading and unloading of products can be carried out manually, but a certain number of people must be involved in the course of work. Usually 1 person is required per 1.5-2 linear meters of sheet length. That is, when unloading metal fragments with a length of 6 m, 3-4 people should be present.

Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars

If thermal insulation will be laid between the rafters, then waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is fastened with brackets to the bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across the rafter legs with an overlap of at least 15 cm along all slopes.

Bars 50x50 mm are nailed directly along the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixing, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

Proper installation of the crate under the metal tile

As a crate, a cut board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide is usually used, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to the bars 50x50 mm using nails with a length of at least 70 mm. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

At the installation site of the ridge element, it is recommended to install two strips close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tile. In the same way, you should do in the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the crate should be higher than the rest by the height of the wave. Usually the thickness of the lining is enough to compensate for the difference.

Installation of parts mounted up to sheets

To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, metal tile cornice strips are installed. An additional ventilation tape must be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

When installing the valley, a universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element should be on the surface of the cornice board. At the junction horizontally, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

Stroking a brick chimney implies the withdrawal of a waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A strobe is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is diverted to a valley located in the immediate vicinity.

The process of laying and fastening sheets

All sheets must be aligned horizontally with a 50 mm outlet for the crate. When fixing metal elements, the following points should be observed:

• the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the crate;
• fastening to the bottom board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
• along the edge of the slope, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

Installation of end strips and ridge

Elements for closing end joints are mounted in the direction from the cornice overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent planks should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

As for the skate, it is fixed in the upper crest of every second wave. When building up the elements, an overlap of at least 15 cm is left. A self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

The number of elements for holding snowdrifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of large snow scraping, two rows of metal profiles can be installed. Pass-through type snow guards are the best solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the crate itself through. The distance between fixation points usually ranges from 50-100 cm.

Metal tile is the most popular roofing material that successfully combines not only reliability and durability, but also the aesthetic perception of the structure. The installation of a roof made of metal tiles requires strict adherence to the technology of work.

When the installation of the metal roof is completed, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat the cuts and scratches with spray paint.

From overalls you will need:

• gloves;
• protective glasses;
• shoes with soft soles.

From the tools you need to prepare:

• screwdriver;
• construction stapler;
• a hammer;
• tape measure with a rag tape;
• jigsaw;
• hacksaw with fine teeth;
• scissors for metal, manual or electric nibblers;
• manual circular electric saw with carbide cutting elements.

Attention: when working with metal tiles, it is forbidden to use a grinder and any cutting devices with abrasive cutting elements, as this leads to burnout and peeling of the protective polymer layer of the sheet!

Otherwise, you not only reduce the operational properties of the roof, but also automatically lose the warranty of the manufacturer of the metal tile.

Taking measurements and calculating materials

From metal tiles

The metal tile sheet has an upper and lower cut, that is, the distance from the corresponding edge of the sheet to the crest of the wave, usually equal to 50 mm. The area of ​​the waves, excluding the top and bottom cut, is the usable area of ​​the sheet. To calculate the number of rows of required sheets horizontally, it is necessary to divide the maximum length of the slope along the ridge or along the eaves by the useful width of the sheet, taking into account the overlap in one wave. The number of sheets in a row can be calculated by dividing the total length of the sheets in the row by the usable length of the sheet. The total length of the sheets is equal to the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the overhang by 40-50mm. At the junctions of slopes, valleys, an inclined ridge, the length should completely cover all bevels.

When choosing the length of the sheet, learn that at short lengths the expansion coefficient of the metal is less, respectively, the tension of the metal is less and the likelihood of the self-tapping screws breaking, the holes becoming loose and the destruction of the metal in these places is less. The length of a metal tile sheet recommended by experts is 4-4.5 m.

To minimize waste, before buying a metal tile, make a drawing of the roof, lay out the sheets according to the resulting scheme, taking into account the joints, so that the waves form a single sheet over the entire roof area.

When calculating the number of waterproofing rolls, the total roof area is divided by the covered area of ​​the roll, taking into account overlaps of 15-20 cm.

When calculating the amount of insulation, the total roof area is multiplied by 0.2 m (recommended insulation thickness).

When calculating the additional elements, it is necessary to take into account the horizontal overlap of 10 cm (for the lower valley - 30 cm).

The number of self-tapping screws is planned based on the consumption rate of 8 pieces per 1 m2 of metal tiles / 1 m of additional elements.

All calculations are made with rounding up.

Rules for the construction of the truss system

Scheme of a hanging truss system of a gable roof.

When planning the truss system, the features of the shape of the roof, wind and snow load are taken into account. For a roof made of metal, experts recommend a distance between the rafters of 600-900mm. As a material for rafters, wood species with a moisture content of not more than 18-22% are suitable. Previously, all wooden elements of the truss structure, including the crate and additional reinforcing strips, must be treated with fire-fighting and antiseptic compounds.

If roof insulation is planned, holes up to 2.5 cm in diameter are drilled in the upper lateral part of the rafters in increments of 30 cm to create additional inter-rafter ventilation.

The old truss structure can also be the basis for a metal roof.

Before the construction of the truss system (including if it will be carried out on the old roof), make sure that the roof is square by comparing the lengths of the slopes diagonally, check the horizontalness of the cornice, ridge, kinks. Installation of rafters is carried out taking into account the identified errors.

According to building codes - 14 °. In conditions of snowy winters and rainy climate, the recommended angle of inclination is 20-30°.

Installation of cornice and frontal boards, filing the cornice

Usually, the installation of a roof involves the presence of either a cornice or a frontal board.

Variants of knots of a tiled roof.

The cornice board enhances the rigidity of the structure and is fixed in special grooves cut in the rafters in order to avoid increasing the height of the truss structure. If the installation of the drain involves the use of long hooks, it is necessary to cut out the corresponding grooves on the cornice board for them. Installation of long hooks is carried out before the installation of metal tiles. Short hooks are usually used if the installation of the metal tile is completed. They are attached to the frontal board, which is nailed to the end of the rafters. This element performs amplifying and protective functions.

For filing the cornice on the wall at the level of the lower edge of the frontal board, a bar is horizontally stuffed. Then, between it and the frontal board, a crate is made in the form of transverse bars, on which the hemming material is then attached (corrugated board, siding or spotlights that match in color and material with the metal tile).

The basic rule when filing a cornice is to ensure free air flow into the under-roof space due to ventilation gaps. The recommended ratio of the total areas of ventilation gaps and the roof is 1/100, the distribution of gaps over the roof is proportional to the areas of its individual elements.

Ventilation gaps are provided either between the lining panels (with the exception of perforated spotlights), or one continuous gap is left between the wall and the last lining panel. To prevent birds and insects from entering the under-roof space, the gaps are closed with a grate with small cells.

When laying waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows.

The waterproofing film protects the under-roof space from the penetration of moisture and dirt, while possessing vapor permeability. It is forbidden to use a bitumen-based waterproofing material when constructing a roof made of metal!

If necessary, it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows from the eaves to the ventilated seal of the roof ridge due to the ventilation gaps between the metal tile and the waterproofing, as well as between the waterproofing and the insulation (double-circuit ventilation).

The waterproofing film is rolled out without turning over from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap (at least 150 mm, and at the junction of the slopes - at least 200 mm) and fastened with a construction stapler. Places of overlap must be isolated with a special tape on an adhesive basis. Please note that the places of overlaps fall on the wooden elements of the truss structure and the crate.

To exclude tension and breakage of the film due to a decrease in its size from the cold and the "play" of the rafters, it is necessary to lay it with a sag of 10-20 mm along the edge of the legs of the rafters. If you are using anti-condensate or classic waterproofing, double-circuit ventilation is required with a gap of 30-50 mm in each circuit. When using superdiffusion membranes, single-circuit ventilation is sufficient - between the membrane and the metal tile.

The waterproofing layer should protrude 200mm beyond the wall line, and cover the end boards at the ends. The overlap on the walls of such roof elements as chimneys and ventilation pipes must be at least 50 mm with an additional layer laid around.

Lathing device, installation of the lower valley

For a roof with an interrafter pitch of 900 mm, boards with a section of 30x100 mm are suitable for the lathing, and with a section of 25x100 mm with a pitch of 600 mm. In the case of increasing the distance between the rafters, when installing the crate, transverse boards of a larger section are used - 50x100mm or 50x150mm. The height of the section of the lowest (initial) lath of the crate should be greater than the height of the other laths by the height of the wave of the sheet, since the top of the metal tile step lies on it. It is attached strictly parallel to the eaves. The second purlin is fastened with a step of 280mm, and all subsequent ones - with a step of 350mm.

The fastening point of the ridge rail must be reinforced with two additional rails in 50mm increments. The thickness of the ridge board should be 10-15 mm more than the thickness of the other boards of the crate to create a ventilation gap.

Around the protruding elements of the roof, a continuous crate is made. At the junction of the slopes (valleys), the crate must also be continuous at a distance of 300 mm from the axis in both directions and coincide in level with the rest of the crate. A waterproofing is laid along the gutter formed by the boards, on top of which the valley is fixed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The overlap at the junction of the valleys should not be less than 100mm. The lower valley should go to the cornice board.

Installation of sheets of metal

The scheme of installation of sheets of metal.

The lifting of sheets of metal tiles to the roof is carried out with the help of ropes along two guide lags fastened with transverse boards. During the installation process, walking on a metal tile is allowed only in places where the wave is deflected and only along the contour of the crate.

Each metal tile sheet has a capillary groove for water drainage, which is covered with the next sheet during installation. Usually start laying on the side where you do not need to cut the sheet. Sheets can be mounted both from left to right, and vice versa with an overlap in one wave, closing the capillary groove on the left side of the sheet.

Basic rules for laying metal tiles

1. Docking "along the waves" to protect the roof from side wind. Self-tapping screws at the docking point are screwed into the crest of the joined wave just below the stamping line. First of all, tighten the longitudinal joints.
2. Docking "in rows" with fastening with self-tapping screws in each wave.
3. Regardless of how geometrically complex the roof is, all sheets of metal tiles are aligned strictly along the cornice line with an overhang of 45-50mm. The sheets to be joined should first be connected to each other, only slightly “grabbing” the upper edge of each to the crate with one self-tapping screw. Only after making sure that the rectangle is correctly applied to the slope, you should screw in the remaining screws and finally fix the docked row.

For roofing self-tapping screws with an EPDM gasket and a protective layer to match the roof of standard sizes 4.8x28mm. Screwing is carried out at the places where the sheet is attached to the crate into the base of the wave perpendicular to the crate to the state of a slightly compressed gasket, steel chips are removed with a brush with soft bristles.

To the initial plank of the crate, the sheets are attached above the step through the wave, and to the subsequent purlins - through the longitudinal wave to every second transverse one as close as possible to the stamping line. Sheets from the side of the end board are attached to each wave. The ridge strip is attached to the metal tile in the crest of the wave with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 800 mm.

The thickening point formed when four sheets are joined is removed either by cutting off part of the corner, or by slightly straightening the capillary groove.

Installation of the end plate, upper valley and junction bars

The waterproofing layer is laid on the end board, and its edge is closed with an end plank, which is attached to the end board with self-tapping screws from the cornice to the ridge with a step of 350 mm and with an overlap of 100 mm.

The end bar is attached in such a way as to overlap the upper crest of the wave. If during the installation process it turned out that the bottom ridge fell on the pediment, you can bend the edges of the sheet up.

When mounting the upper valley, follow the basic rule - the screws are screwed in in such a way as to exclude their passage through the middle of the lower valley. Otherwise, the waterproofing layer will be broken. A self-expanding sealant is laid between the valley (adjacency strips) and the metal tile.

Installation of the ridge bar and snow retainer

The waterproofing layer along the entire ridge space must have a gap of at least 50 mm for unimpeded evaporation of moisture. In places of point ventilation holes, a sealant must be applied. The ridge plank should be mounted with an overlap of 100 mm from the end on the end planks with a 20-30 mm edge protrusion by fastening to the upper ridge and the crate through the wave. In order to avoid blowing snow under the ridge, an aero roller is installed between the sheets of metal tiles and the ridge strip, and the ends are closed with plugs.

To prevent an avalanche from the roof of snow is necessary. Even at the stage of the crate installation, provide for the intended attachment points of this support element by placing special bars under the crest of the wave. carried out parallel to the cornice with fastening under the second transverse step of the metal tile sheet.

Metal roofing also needs to be grounded in order to ensure the safety of the entire building as a whole.

When the metal tile is completed, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat the cuts and scratches with spray paint. After 3 months of operation of the roof, check the condition of the screws, if necessary, tighten loose ones.