Fatsia japonica from seed cultivation. Fatsia is an Asian beauty

The genus Fatsia includes only one species, Fatsia Japanese and is part of the Araliaceae family. This plant has been widely used in decorating shop windows, walls, pillars, when grown in tubs, and is also used in interior design at home. In addition, potted plants are used in the design of baskets.

Following the rules for caring for the plant and regular feeding, Fatsia develops quite quickly and in 1.5-2 years it will reach 1 meter in height. The plant forms a very beautiful crown when using a free arrangement of specimens.

Species and varieties

Or aralia japanese found wild along the coasts of Japan. The plant is an evergreen unbranched shrub, reaching up to 2-4 meters in height, and in cultivated cultivation it reaches from 1 to 2 meters no more.

The leaves are leathery, glossy, green in color, although there are also forms with white-and-white and yellow-and-white colors, they have a heart-shaped rounded shape with 5-9 lobes, usually reaching up to 15-30 centimeters in diameter, located on long petioles. The flowers are white, very beautifully collected in umbellate inflorescences.

This plant is quite decorative, for this reason it is grown both at home and in greenhouses; industrial gardening is mainly engaged in the cultivation of this species.

In literary works, garden forms of Fatsia can be found with the following names:

Dense squat plants;

Fatsia japonica aureomarginata - yellow border on the leaves;

White border on the leaves;

Fatsheder Lisa the form obtained from crossing the hedera and fatsia is grown as an evergreen densely leafy shrub, reaching up to 5 meters in height. The leaves are leathery, dark green in color, 3-5 pawled.

Fatsia home care

When growing Fatsia, she needs to provide a bright place, but not very sunny, the plant easily tolerates small shading. But different forms relate to lighting in different ways. For example, variegated forms need more light than plants with a monochromatic leaf color, these plants are more shade-tolerant.

They feel good when grown near windows of eastern and western orientation; at southern windows, the plant must be darkened from direct sunlight. More shade-tolerant species are best grown near north-facing windows. Also, the plant is successfully grown under artificial lighting. In the summer, Fatsia can be taken out into the fresh air, after protecting it from direct sunlight.

In spring and summer, Fatsia must provide the optimum air temperature from 18 to 22 degrees. And in winter, plants normally tolerate the average room temperature, but it is best to keep them in places with good lighting and a more comfortable temperature, about 10 degrees.

Watering Fatsia

In the summer, fatsia must be provided with abundant watering, as the topsoil dries up, using soft and settled water. From the autumn period, watering is somewhat reduced, and in winter, watering is reduced significantly, without leading to complete drying of the soil, only if the plant is kept in cool conditions.

If Fatsia or Fatshedera are kept in winter at a higher temperature, it is not worth greatly reducing watering, it should only be 2-3 hours after the earthen coma is completely moistened, drain excess water from the pan.

When watering, in no case do not allow water to stagnate in the pan or the soil to dry out, this must be taken very seriously. When drying an earthy coma, at least once, the plant can lower the leaves, which are quite difficult to return to their previous position.

In this situation, even very plentiful watering will not help. If nevertheless this happened, you should tie the leaves on the spacers in a horizontal position. After some time, perhaps the plant will return to its original appearance.

Large-sized leaves need regular spraying with settled soft water, as well as wiping with a soft, damp cloth or sponge. In winter, spraying should be reduced, depending on the temperature of the content. And in the summer, Fatsia can arrange a warm shower.

Fatsia fertilizer

In the spring and autumn, Fatsia needs to be fed with organic or mineral fertilizer once a week.

In winter, the plant is stopped fertilizing, with a cool content, and in the case of a warmer content, the plant is fed no more than 1 time per month.

Fatsia transplant

Fatsia needs to be transplanted in spring or early summer once every 2-3 years. In this case, it is necessary to replace the pot with a larger one in diameter. The plant can form several young stems at once, due to its basal offspring.

The soil can be taken as normal, slightly acidic or neutral with a pH of 6-7. It can be made up of equal parts of leafy soil, soddy soil, peat, sand and humus.

An alternative mix would be 2 parts leafy soil, 1 part garden soil, 1 part soddy soil, ½ part sand, and 1 part peat moss. Don't forget to put a good layer of drainage on the bottom of the pot. The plant can also be grown hydroponically.

Fatsia pruning

Formative pruning can be tolerated quite calmly. When forming branched bushes, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the shoots in young plants.

Fatshedera The face needs regular tweezing and pruning.

Fatsia breeding

Fatsia is quite easy to propagate by air layering and apical cuttings, as well as by seed propagation.

Usually grafting occurs in the spring with apical cuttings. Cuttings are cut with the presence of several buds that are ready to start growing. They take root quite quickly in a wet mixture of sand and peat at a temperature of 22 to 26 degrees.

After planting for rooting, they are covered with a plastic bag or a glass jar. As soon as the plants take root, they should be planted in an earthen mixture, these cuttings form not tall, but densely leafy bushes.

Fatsia from seeds at home

Also, plants can be propagated by seeds, which must be sown in boxes or pots to a depth of no more than 1 centimeter. The earthen mixture should have the following composition: soddy earth, leafy earth and sand in equal quantities.

In order for seedlings to appear, it is necessary to keep the temperature of the soil and air around 18 degrees. After the seedlings have grown stronger, they must be planted in 9-11 cm pots, one young plant at a time. The soil is made up of 1 part of humus soil, 2 parts of soddy land and 1 part of sand. It is also necessary to place young plants in a bright room.

Fatsia rejuvenation

With proper care of the plant, it is usually completely leafy, but it also happens that the trunk of Fatsia is completely bare, in this case, the plant can be rejuvenated by air layering. To do this, in the spring, it is necessary to make a shallow incision on the stem, then wrap it with wet moss soaked in a nutrient solution or phytohormone, and cover it with polyethylene on top.

Moss must always be kept moist, moisturizing it as it dries. After a few months, roots will appear at the site of the cut. After two or three months, after the appearance of roots, the top with roots is cut off, below the formation of roots and planted in a separate bowl.

The stem that remains should not be thrown away, it must be cut almost to the root and continue watering the hemp that remains from the plant, covering it with moistened moss. There is a chance that this stump also forms shoots capable of good growth.

After the base of the air layers, the remaining stem can not be cut off at the root, but try to graft ivy from the same family on it, graft into the bark or split. The grafted plant easily takes root on the Fatsia trunk and, as it grows, you will have an original type of tree with falling branches.

Possible difficulties

• Leaves droop and brown spots appear on them , this is due to the drying of the earthen coma, it will be quite difficult to return the former form of the leaf cover.
• brittle leaves , occurs due to the fact that the room has low humidity, and if combined with intense lighting, it can lead to wrinkling.
• Leaves are soft and wilt , occurs with an excess of moisture in the soil, and if this also happens for a long period of time, the root system may rot.
• Damaged by: spider mites, mealybugs, whiteflies and scale insects.

Do not forget that all parts of the Japanese Fatsia plant contain toxic substances.

Recently, many people prefer tall and voluminous plants that can independently be an ornament for any style direction in the interior. The Araliyev family boasts one of its brightest, most presentable representatives - a plant called Fatsia. The attractive ornamental leaves of this evergreen tree have brought popularity and recognition to the species. The flower grows very quickly and may well become a full-fledged decor element of any interior. Fatsia from seeds at home is grown in several stages: sowing, picking, transplanting to a permanent place. The fashion for originality makes flower growers look for more and more sophisticated forms of interior gardening. Therefore, the bright and beautiful Fatsia flower quickly found its “consumer”, having won the love of the vast majority of flora lovers. The basic rules for planting and caring for the plant are proposed in this material, you can also see photos of Fatsia in various options for growing it:

How to grow Fatsia Japanese: home care

Japan and Taiwan are the countries that are the birthplace of the original and nowadays fashionable plant. Small trees growing along the banks of water bodies and in wooded areas look neat and compact. For cultivation in the form of a room decorative culture, only one type of flower is relevant - Fatsia Japanese, which is distinguished by its compact size and adaptability to the dryness of the surrounding air. How to grow this decorative leafy plant at home with your own hands? To begin with, you should learn that proper care includes the mandatory regular spraying of hardwood. Without this technique, it is difficult to get the plant to grow at a normal pace without curving the trunk and damaging the leaf blade.

The home tree has a straight trunk covered with brownish bark. The diameter of dense, rounded leaves reaches a size of 30 cm. The flowers are small, yellow-green or dull white. For proper cultivation, it is necessary to arm yourself with knowledge of some of the nuances and details that are especially important for the development of the plant.

This plant is a fairly hardy representative of the green world, adapting to almost any conditions. When caring for Fatsia at home, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances that can affect growth and development. The main criteria for quality care:

• Temperature. In winter, the temperature, if possible, should range from 10 to 15 degrees Celsius. In warmer times, 18-22 degrees plus is the optimum temperature.
• Light. For plants of this species, light is quite important, but not too bright and not daylight - a light shading option will be more successful. Trees with monochromatic leaves tolerate more shade, variegated plants are more photophilous.
• Watering. When the substrate dries, the plant is watered with softened, settled water. In hot weather, it is necessary to water abundantly, from the middle of autumn - it costs less to water. In winter, it is not necessary to wait for the substrate to dry out, watering much less frequently. It is necessary to approach this issue as carefully as possible, since when water stagnates in the pan, the root system will begin to rot, and when the soil dries out, the Fatsia leaf will sink and lose its juiciness. Returning it later to its previous position will be quite difficult.
• Top dressing. From early spring to autumn, the plant needs high-quality top dressing with mineral fertilizers and organic matter. In winter, you can not fertilize.

Fatsia is transplanted once every three years during warm periods. Each time the pot is selected much larger and wider than the previous one. Formative pruning is a completely natural process for bushes, so they are tolerated absolutely calmly.

For transplantation, use the usual substrate, slightly acidic or neutral soil type. To obtain a high-quality mixture, it is possible to mix sandy mass, peat, leaf and sod land in equal proportions with the addition of humus. A layer of drainage at the bottom is required.

Fatsia propagation variations from seeds and apical cuttings

The plant reproduces in several ways. For this, air layers, apical cuttings or seeds are used. In the presence of a bare trunk, Fatsia is propagated by air layering. Experienced gardeners make sparing cuts on the stem in the spring, then wrapping them with moistened moss, which is impregnated with a special solution. With regular moisturizing, small roots will appear in a few months. After another couple of months, the shoots can be separated from the mother tree. Reproduction variations include sowing seeds, which we will talk about later.

Cuttings of the stem of the plant into segments are carried out in the spring. The resulting segments and tops of the stem are rooted in moist soil in warm weather. To create a high-quality microclimate, seedlings are covered with polyethylene. When the seedlings take root, they are planted in small pots.

It is possible to reproduce Fatsia from seeds that are sown to a depth of no more than one centimeter. Planting is done in pots or special boxes. The best option is considered to be a soil mixture of equal parts of sand, sheet and sod land.

Attractive Fatsia flowers for decoration and decor (with photo)

An ornamental plant can be used while decorating pillars, walls, shop windows. When growing these bright representatives of the flora in large tubs, they strive to decorate the interior in an original and attractive way. No wonder the Fatsia flower is considered one of the most attractive, presentable plants for the home, the height of which in room conditions can reach one and a half meters. Attractive with their abundant green mass, flowers for interior decoration and design decoration have recently been very popular. Look at the photo of the most outstanding instances of Fatsia, presented in different forms:

With a free arrangement of plants, the crown forms beautifully and naturally. Numerous photos of Fatsia on the Internet will help you decide on the choice of plants and purchase a flower that will delight all family members for many years.

It is appreciated by admirers of indoor floriculture for its chic leaves, which are distinguished by their original structure and size (often reach 40 cm in diameter). Despite the pretentiousness in terms of conditions of detention, every year Fatsia confidently wins a “place in the sun” in apartments and offices.

It is extremely difficult to achieve flowering of Fatsia at room conditions, but in greenhouses the plant blooms and bears fruit. However, the decorative effect of Fatsia flowers cannot be compared with its luxurious leaves. In this article, we will look at the easy cultivation of fatsia from seeds for seedlings.

Growing fatsia from seeds: process features

It reproduces well by vegetative methods, but growing from seeds is cheaper. When buying, it should be borne in mind that Fatsia seeds remain viable for only a short time.

Sowing

It is advisable to start sowing at the end of February - March, when the length of daylight hours increases. However, given the rapid loss of germination, it makes sense to sow as soon as the seeds are purchased. If this is done in winter, then you need to take care of the organization of additional lighting in advance. Seeds germinate in a dark place for a month, and then the seedlings need to provide optimal light conditions.

Regardless of the statute of limitations for seeds, before sowing, it is recommended to soak them for 2 days in water at room temperature. It's also a good idea to add some kind of germination stimulator (epin, zircon, etc.). Growth processes can be activated by bubbling - mixing seeds in an aquatic environment with air bubbles. For bubbling, an aquarium compressor is perfect. In this case, the processing time is reduced to 12 - 24 hours.

substrate and watering

As a substrate for germination, you can use any composition intended for growing flowers. Or prepare the mixture yourself, for example, from peat and sand in a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2. The soil must be disinfected by treating for half an hour in a "steam bath".

For germination, it is necessary to keep the substrate moist, and at the same time, the seeds are sensitive to moisture stagnation, as a result of which the risk of rotting and death of the embryo is likely. For this reason, drainage holes must be provided in the germination container to drain moisture. You will also need a layer of drainage (expanded clay).

It is carried out on the surface, after which the seeds are sprinkled with a thin layer of soil (0.5 - 08 cm).

Growing fatsia from seeds is carried out in a dark place; temperature range - from 13 to 18 ° C, and, according to professionals, the lower limit is more preferable.

When seedlings appear, seedlings are transferred to a lighted place (exposure to direct sunlight is unacceptable!). They need to be kept at a temperature of 15 - 18 ° C.

With the development of the 3rd true leaf, Fatsia seedlings dive into individual containers. If possible, it is recommended to lower the temperature to 10 - 14 °C.

After six months of growing, the seedlings are transplanted with a clod of earth into nutrient soil.

Japanese Fatsia (Futsiajaponiai) is sometimes called Japanese Aralia. It is also grown indoors.

It happens variegated and with plain leaves. Its peculiarity and dignity are large dark green palmate leaves. Fatsia flowers are inconspicuous and do not represent any decorative value.

Fatsia is grown both indoors and in greenhouses.

Fatsia Japanese: photo and description

A very fast growing ornamental tree almost 1.5 m high with leaves up to 35 cm in size. Its homeland is sunny Japan. This is an amazing exotic plant with large light green shiny palmate leaves. It is also interesting because it is evergreen. The appearance of the trunk changes over time and becomes knotty.

Such a rather large original plant requires a lot of space, so Japanese Fatsia (photo above) is grown at home in large rooms or in the lobby.

The tree is slightly branched, the leaves are rounded in diameter 15-30 cm, 5-9-lobed, shiny, leathery, on long petioles. The flowers themselves are small and fragrant, collected in small umbrella-shaped inflorescences, white or greenish-yellow. Dark blue berries are its fruits.

Fatsia requires precautions, as it contains some poisonous substances.

Fatsia japonica is an unpretentious plant. Her favorite place is a bright room, in this regard, it is preferable to install it on the east and west windows. But in hot weather, it is advisable to cover its leaves from the direct light of the sun.

The best place for her is openwork penumbra. It is useful to take out Fatsia in the shade in the summer. The plant responds well to fresh air.

The best air temperature for her is 18-22 ° C, since under such conditions Fatsia leaves remain attractive.

In winter, this plant tolerates normally, but it is best to keep it under cooler conditions - 10-15°C. For variegated forms of Fatsia, the temperature in winter should not be less than 16 ° C.

Transplant Features

The soil for Japanese fatsia needs to be fertile and light. This is a mixture at the rate of 3:2:1, respectively, of soddy soil, sand and peat.

When the pot for the plant becomes cramped, the aralia must be transplanted. It is best to perform this procedure at the very beginning of growth (in the spring). To form a plant, prune every spring, preferably in the morning, so that the sap flow stops by evening.

While the plant is young, it should be transplanted annually in the spring, and then every three years. A third of the height of the pot must be filled with expanded clay drainage.

This plant grows well in hydroponics.

Fatsia Japanese. Home care: watering and fertilizing

The only serious whim of Fatsia is that it needs constant spraying with soft water. Wiping the leaves with a damp cloth or soft sponge is also recommended. In the summer, the plant should arrange a warm shower. In winter, the number of sprayings can be reduced, and during cold wintering this should not be done at all.

In (summer) watering, it is advisable to do it regularly, also periodically spraying the leaves to maintain a bright and shiny appearance. During the dormant period, watering should be reduced to prevent rotting of the plant's roots.

During the growth period, aralia must be fertilized with complex fertilizers once every 2 weeks. During the dormant period, the plant is not fertilized. And in the autumn season, fertilizing is not necessary.

At some points, Japanese Fatsia requires caution. Care for her in terms of watering should be delicate. Overdrying leads to lethargy and lowering of the leaves. You can correct their position only with the help of a garter on spacers to a horizontal position. And when the soil is waterlogged, the leaves of the plant become flabby and soft, turn yellow, and then fall off. Also, with insufficient watering, the tips of the leaves dry out.

reproduction

The methods of reproduction of Fatsia Japanese are different and uncomplicated. Fatsia and fatshedera are propagated by both apical cuttings and aerial layering. Seed propagation is also allowed.

In the spring, the plant is usually propagated by apical cuttings. Moreover, they should have several buds ready to grow. Rooting usually occurs quickly in a moist substrate consisting of a mixture of sand and peat at 26°C. The cuttings must be covered with a jar or plastic wrap, and removing them for airing in the morning and evening for half an hour.

As soon as they take root, they need to be seated in an earthen mixture. With this seating, the plant usually turns out to be densely leafy.

When a bush is exposed, it can be rejuvenated and put in order with the help of an air layer. In the spring, a shallow incision is made on the trunk, wrapped with moss (wet) soaked in any nutrient solution, and covered with a film on top.

Moss should always be kept moist. Roots will appear at the incision site in a few months. Then, after a short time, the top with roots is cut below the formed roots and planted in a pot. The stump from the remaining old plant must continue to be watered, because it will give shoots that will grow beautifully.

Fatsia japonica can also be propagated by seeds. Seeds are sown in containers (pots or vases) to a depth of 1 cm in a mixture of equal parts of earth with turf, leafy soil and sand. The air should have a temperature of about 18 ° C, then shoots will appear. Then the seedlings, after they get stronger, are planted in 10-11 cm pots and placed in a lighted room.

Pests, diseases and their control

Fatsia is sometimes attacked by worms, less often by aphids and scale insects.

The fight against worms with slight damage consists in cleaning the leaves of the plant with a cotton swab dipped in soap. You can also use alcohol. With a stronger lesion, it is necessary to spray Fatsia with the Japanese insecticide "Aktellik" or "Aktara".

If the plant is infected with a scab, then it must be isolated from other flowers. These pests are protected by a shell, so it is more difficult to deal with them. It is necessary to carefully remove them from the plant again with a cotton swab or toothpick treated with Aktara, alcohol or soapy water.

Forms and types of fatsia

Garden species and forms of Japanese fatsia can be found with different names:

1. Fatsia japonicavar. moseri are squat, dense plants.

2. Fatsia japonica aureimarginatis - there is a yellow border on the leaves.

3. Fatsia japonica var. argenteimarginatis - white border on the leaves.

The most popular hybrid of ivy and Fatsia - Fatshedera Face. These are evergreen plants, densely leafy with lobed leaves, leathery, dark green. Their stem is thin, so the plants are usually attached to a support. There are also species with variegated leaf patterns.

Possible problems, ways to determine

Japanese fatsia, like any other plant, has external changes in shape and color. What can it say?

• If the leaves of the plant are soft and sluggish, then the soil has become waterlogged.
• If the leaves become brittle, then the air is too dry.
• With shriveled leaves, the plant may have received or the air is too dry.
• The tips of the leaves have become brownish or brittle - lack of watering.
• The leaves turned yellow and fall off - there was waterlogging of the soil.

Fatsia Japanese at home, with proper and good care, can be a wonderful and original interior decoration.

The word "Fatsia" comes from the Japanese name for the number "8" ("Fatsi") - exactly how many shares can be divided into each leaf of this plant.

By the way, his leaves are the most important decoration, unlike modest, barely noticeable flowers.

In its natural environment, it is an evergreen shrub, up to 6 m high., as a horticultural crop can stretch up to two meters. Well, if Fatsia is grown at home, the plant, as they say, "steps on the throat of its own song" - limits its growth to one meter.

Although the Japanese fatsia plant is far from small, it fits perfectly into the interior of rooms, office premises, is used for window dressing, and in the winter garden, of course, you can’t do without it (they keep it in large tubs).

Many flower growers know this culture as aralia, Japanese (or domestic) chestnut. She does not require any special approach to herself, even beginners can take care of her.

It grows very quickly: already in the first year it reaches a meter, and then (already at the discretion of the owner) Fatsia will be allowed to grow a little more, for example, up to 1.5 meters, if the size of the room allows, or they will stop its growth by providing "hairdressing services".

The stem of this flower is quite strong, usually has several branches, but even it hardly holds a rich cap of leaves, therefore, in an artificial habitat fatsia often require additional support.

The leaves, resembling chestnut or maple in shape, reach a length of 30-50 cm. By the way, depending on the variety, they may have not 8, but 5 lobes. Their color is dark green, saturated. And the flowers-umbrellas are light, sometimes generally white, but more often yellowish-green. The diameter of the inflorescences is no more than 5 cm. The flowers are replaced by black drupes, resembling olives in shape.

In nature, the plant (it belongs to the Araliaceae family) does not have very many species. Man filled this gap by creating a number of hybrids and varieties, experimenting mainly with the size of the plant and the color palette of its leaves.

However, Japanese Fatsia is still the leader in popularity in indoor floriculture. The size of its leaf plates is 30 cm in diameter, the shape is rounded with pronounced finger lobes. At the base of the sheet there is a cutout resembling a heart.

Also in the winter gardens and home interiors are:

• • fatshedera face - a large plant with dark emerald foliage that requires artificial support, since its stem and branches curl;

• fatsia samurai - reaches a one and a half meter mark, quite often blooms at home with greenish fragrant flowers;
• fatsia Japanese empire - a dense crown of large glossy leaves resembles a ball with a diameter of 40 cm in shape, rarely blooms;
• Shefler's Fatsia is a beautiful plant, rather difficult to care for, poorly tolerated by low temperatures and lack of light.

Aralia fatsia is also represented by a number of garden and indoor forms with different leaf colors:

• "Variegata" - with a white edge;

• "Aureimarginalis" - with a yellow border around the edge;
• "Spider's Web" - with silvery leaves resembling velvet.

FOR HOME USE: in indoor floriculture, the Moseri variety is becoming increasingly popular - the smallest plant among its relatives, outwardly resembling a dense dark green bush.

To care for Fatsia, all the skills that the grower has acquired by growing other indoor crops will come in handy, but there are a couple of important features.

Firstly, if you make a mistake with watering (not enough or overdo it), the branches and leaves will wilt and it will not be possible to return them to their former life.

Secondly, if you are an inexperienced grower, start with variegated varieties - they are more resistant to adverse events.

Priming

The soil is preferably light, loose. A good option is hydroponics. If you buy soil in a store, choose a universal substrate.

If you cook yourself, use turf ground (2 parts), sheet (1) and sand (one). Acidity is desirable normal or slightly acidic.

In watering for this flower, the main thing is stability.. It is useless to act in the "ambulance" mode, since the negative processes caused by improper watering are irreversible:

• due to lack of moisture (even for a very short period of time), the leaves wither and fall;
• due to waterlogging - they lose their elasticity, gloss, turn yellow and fall off.

To prevent such situations, water Fatsia regularly. Between watering, control the condition of the soil - only the topmost layer, 2-3 cm thick, should dry out.

In winter, if the plant stays at home, warm, the frequency of watering should not be reduced, but less water should be spent so that not only the top layer of soil dries out, but also part of the middle one.

If the flower spends the winter in a cool room, reduce the number of waterings, but make sure that the soil still remains slightly moist.

Fatsia has fewer requirements for atmospheric moisture, however too dry air can adversely affect its decorative effect- it no longer looks fresh and juicy, the tips of its beautiful leaves begin to dry out.

The optimal humidity for a flower is not lower than 50 percent. This level can be maintained by spraying with water once a day or every two days.

IMPORTANT: regularly wipe the leaves with a damp cloth so that they always remain clean - this helps fatsia breathe better and protects against possible pests.

Fatsia flower grows well in places with very different lighting conditions.. Even in the shade, the leaves remain as beautiful, shiny, but the growth of the flower itself slows down.

Flower growers use this, removing plants that have already reached the optimal size away from the sun's rays. But whoever likes the light is variegated varieties, moreover, the more spots and stripes on them, the more necessary for them sufficient illumination.

Fatsia can even cope with the extreme in the form of direct sunlight - she will not get burned, as usually happens with other houseplants. However, it is not worth subjecting the “Japanese woman” to this test - it weakens her, leads to a depressed state.

But this room culture has no complaints about artificial lighting, the main thing is that it be stable, even under conditions of a short winter day.

Comfortable temperature range - from 18 to 23 degrees Celsius. It is desirable to maintain it during the active period for the flower - from the first days of spring to the end of autumn. In the phase of relative rest, the temperature should be 10-15 degrees.

And Fatsia also urgently needs fresh air, for the sake of it she will even patiently endure a draft, especially in the summer.

Fertilizers designed for ornamental leafy crops and containing a lot of nitrogen. Doses are those that the manufacturer offers, and the frequency of use is 1 time in 10 days. This scheme is relevant in the "active" period, from spring to October. In winter, feeding is not required at all, even if the "Japanese" is kept in normal home conditions.

Pruning and transplant

"Hairdressing services" provide a flower early spring: remove old, dried up branches, as well as too thin. Healthy branches are shortened by a third of the length. This is a necessary procedure in order to stimulate the formation of new branches and eventually form a dense bush of a beautiful shape.

For young specimens actively stretching upward, pinching the tops is recommended. The goal is the same - to get side shoots and with their help competently form a bush.

Transplantation of young plants is done once a year or two, depending on whether there is enough space for the roots in the old pot, older specimens need housewarming every 2-3 years. At the same time, the topmost layer of soil should be changed every year..

A new one is picked up more, the bottom is filled with some kind of drainage material (it should make up about a third of the total volume of the pot). Transplantation is carried out in the usual way - by transshipment, carefully preserving the earthen clod in which the root system is located.

CAREFULLY: sticky sap may come out from broken or cut branches. It is poisonous, can cause an allergic reaction, so if the drops get on your hands, they must be thoroughly washed.

This procedure is not very difficult for the grower, besides, he always has a choice: to grow a "Japanese woman" from seeds, cuttings or layering.

cuttings

They are cut from the apical part of the flower, only in the spring, when the active stage of development begins.

There should be a few swollen buds on the shoot.

Having treated the cuttings with a growth accelerator, they are buried a couple of centimeters into the soil and covered with a film to get a greenhouse effect.

As soon as rooting occurs, they are seated in separate pots.

This method is good if the plant has lost its foliage, and the trunk and large branches are bare. A suitable area is chosen, located on the branch between the nodes, a vertical incision is made and the “wound” is wrapped in wet moss (it can be pre-poured with a growth accelerator), fixed with a piece of foil.

Do not forget to moisten the moss regularly. Soon, the future "Japanese" will have the first roots. The top of the branch with roots is cut off and planted in a pot.

Growing from seeds

Fatsia from seeds is grown quite rarely due to a shortage of high-quality, and most importantly, fresh seed.

If the grower has it, he will do this: he will sow the seeds in a moistened substrate, sprinkle them with a centimeter layer of soil, then build something like a greenhouse, covering the ground with glass.

It will need to be removed as soon as shoots appear. In the presence of two full-fledged leaves, each seedling is already entitled to count on an individual pot.

As a rule, the florist blames himself for all the troubles, since pests and diseases prefer plants weakened by improper care. Here are the dangers of Fatsia:

• gray rot,
• spider mite,
• thrips,
• scale insects.

Experts recommend treating the affected leaves with soapy water, manually removing pests, and then spraying the flower with insecticides, purchasing them in a specialized store. In the case of gray mold, emergency measures are sometimes required in the form of plant transplantation with soil replacement.

In order to timely come to the aid of a green pet, you need to understand its “language” well:

• • sluggish leaves mean that there is too much moisture in the soil;

• brittle speak of its dryness;
• shriveled - about the dryness of the air;
• brown tips indicate insufficient watering.

This video talks about fatsia transplantation as a method of dealing with centipedes: