What are the slopes on pvc windows made of. Plastic slopes on windows and doors - quick installation of panels with your own hands

Hello!

Have you looked at my page again to learn something new from the field of building finishing works?

We will talk about the process that is a consequence and an integral part of the work associated with the installation of plastic windows - finishing the internal slopes.

I hope that for those who decide to independently perform the installation and finishing of slopes, this article will become a practical guide for this type of construction work.

How to make interior window slopes

To learn how to design internal slopes yourself, you first need to decide what kind of slopes you will do.

It is clear that:

• their plane should be even, without cracks;
• the side and top lines of the junction with the wall are straight;
• on all three sides, the slope should cover the window frame with the same grip;
• the dawn angles of the side slopes must be identical to each other.

These are common truths known to all. Well, how to ensure that the slopes meet these requirements, we will talk a little later - after we decide what building material will form their basis.

Meanwhile, the choice of material from which the slope in your house will be made is not such an easy question as it seems, so we will consider it in more detail.

What material

What is the further arrangement of a window opening after a window block has been installed in this opening? That's right, next comes the finishing of the slopes of this opening with one of the building materials, the list of which begins with classic plaster and ends with wooden clapboard.

It is necessary to choose the material for covering the slopes, starting from the purpose of the room in which the window opening is located.

Let's look at some of the options:

• the interior of the room is stylized as a natural wood finish, and the owner wants to emphasize this direction in every detail, even in the arrangement of the window opening. In this case, MDF panels, PVC panels, laminate, laminated fiberboard, natural wooden lining can come to the rescue. Naturally, MDF, PVC, fiberboard and laminate should have an imitation of wood. It is worth noting that in order to avoid a sharp dissonance with the slopes, the plastic window must also be laminated to match the texture and color of the wood;
• in the room a style corresponding to the concept of "minimalism", where nothing should be conspicuous, including window openings. In this option, classic plastered, puttied and painted slopes are the best choice. If the window frame of a plastic window is standard white, then it is better to paint the slopes in matte white;
• a window opening is located in a room where the window is permanently covered with a curtain or curtain. If the window is out of sight, and its aesthetic component does not play a role in the decoration of the room, the slopes can be quickly and easily decorated with a plastic panel with a color similar to the color of the window frame;
• the window is installed in the technical room or in the bathroom. As a rule, the decoration of the walls of these rooms is of a specific nature and, in most cases, it is tiling, sometimes (in the bathroom) - mosaics. The same materials (only after plastering) can be transferred to window slopes - it will be both stylish and practical.

Besides, for finishing window openings, you can use drywall, foam plastic and even metal. In what cases these types of finishes are used, I will tell you when we get closer to the specific cases of their installation on slopes.

As you can see, there is a choice of materials for slopes, and you have to make it.

The main types of internal window slopes for plastic windows

The problem with the question of what slopes will be made after the plastic windows are installed must be solved even before the installation of these windows.

Very often, an organization that installs window blocks can also provide a service for finishing slopes. If you want to see the slopes around the installed windows, then the easiest way is to find out if this organization has a similar service in its arsenal and what finishing options they can offer you.

Most often, plastic window installers offer to install slopes from PVC panels - this does not take much time and is quite economically feasible.

How to finish the slopes, see the video:

From PVC panels

If the distance from the frame to the plane of the inner wall is not very large (up to 37 cm), then it can be closed with one plastic panel. In houses with a solid wall thickness and, accordingly, a large window opening, two panels can be joined, which, of course, is not very good, because their joint is quite noticeable.

P PVC panels, from which the slope is made, must be mounted on a pre-arranged frame. Often, installers neglect this condition, and the whole installation consists in inserting the panel into the outer F-shaped bar fixed along the edge of the slope and the initial profile fixed to the window frame.

Such negligence threatens that when pressing on the panel, it can simply fall under the slats, and then it will not be so easy to put it in its place.

The appearance of slopes made of plastic - as they say, "an amateur."

Some of the owners of plastic slopes are simply delighted - this finish does not require special care, there are no marks left on it, it merges with the window frame, and besides, it is perfectly even and smooth.

And some notice that after installing the plastic on the slopes, at the time when the sun's rays hit it, an unpleasant smell appears in the room. The plastic itself from exposure to the sun begins to turn yellow over time, and it looks too artificial material.

For those who do not like PVC slopes, the main complaint expressed is the poor quality of the panels. This issue can be resolved by choosing certified products, the technical characteristics of which indicate that it is intended for use in different weather conditions.

From plaster composition

Let me state right away that stucco slopes are a bad solution for finishing openings in a wooden house.

In principle, they can be made on wooden slopes: install a plaster mesh and apply a plaster composition on it. But the whole question is, how long will this slope last before it starts to crack, because the tree starts to “play”? I'm sure not for long.

For this reason plaster slopes are the privilege of houses in which window openings are made of brick and concrete.

Finishing slopes with plaster is considered not so much laborious as a lengthy process.

First you need to prime the base and let it dry. Then you should spray (for better adhesion) from the plaster composition, if we are dealing with a slope device in a panel or a monolithic house, and let the composition dry again.

Depending on the thickness of the layer that needs to be thrown onto the slope, the plaster has to be applied several times, and before each next throw, the previous layer must dry completely.

After the applied layers have completely dried, the slope is again primed and puttied, at least two times.

Then the dried putty is cleaned with sandpaper to bring the treated surface to an ideal state, and again primed.

The last stage is the application of two layers of paint.

Pay attention to how many times you need to stop before proceeding to the next stage of finishing?

Many times, and all this takes time, which, as you know, for any builder is money. Therefore, do not be surprised when, in order to make a slope of plaster, you will be asked for an amount three to four times the cost of the device on the same plastic slope window.

If you are promised to make a slope of plaster in a day or two, then be prepared for the fact that its surface will soon be covered with a grid of cracks, and this will not be the worst thing.

The main trouble that can happen with the surface that is plastered in violation of technology is its complete separation from the base. So think about what is better: patiently wait until each applied plaster layer dries and shrinks, or do everything quickly and at one not at all perfect moment see pieces of plaster that have fallen off the upper slope on the windowsill.

By the way, since we remembered the upper slope, I can say that often experienced builders, instead of throwing plaster on the upper slope (due to the particular complexity of this work), follow the path of least resistance and install a sheet of moisture-resistant drywall on it.

It turns out a combined type of finish: on the vertical sides - plaster, and on top - drywall.

This is how we smoothly approached the next popular material used for finishing slopes - dry plaster or sheet drywall.

Plastic window slope finishing technology in the video:

https://youtu.be/UQP_JozDJ1s

From drywall

There are two ways to fix drywall on the surface of a window opening:

• stick on a special adhesive composition;
• screw on a metal or wooden frame.

Gluing is an easier and more affordable way.

From a sheet of moisture-resistant drywall (necessarily moisture-resistant, since the slope is a zone of high humidity), the first blank for the upper slope is cut. Its length should be equal to the distance between the side slopes, and in width - a couple of centimeters more than the distance from the window frame to the wall plane.

It is desirable that the side of the workpiece that touches the frame has an unfinished "factory" joint. It is easier to putty, and it is less than the cut edge is destroyed by mechanical stress.

After making sure that the workpiece is suitable in size, you need to prepare one board a little less than the length of the workpiece, and two more supports - equal in length to the distance from the window sill to the upper slope.

Several adhesive cakes are applied to the inside of the workpiece, after which it is fixed on the upper part of the opening with a board supported by props.

Blanks for side slopes are cut according to the same pattern: length from the window sill to the upper slope; the width from the frame to the wall with a margin of a couple of centimeters.

After the mandatory fitting, the same adhesive must be applied to the inner surface and ensure contact with the side wall of the window opening.

It should be noted that immediately after contact with the surface of the opening, the workpiece must be leveled. To do this, you need to attach a plank level to their surfaces in two places - near the frame and in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe junction with the wall of the room.

After the drywall is glued, you can cut off its protruding part along the plane of the wall and proceed with puttying and painting.

Installing drywall on a slope using a frame is a relatively difficult task. In this case, much depends on how much space is allocated for installation and to what surface the frame should be attached.

Non-traditional materials

The slopes of the interior room are not just the surface between the window frame and the wall of the room in which the window opening is located. Slopes, in the first place - a structural element of the entire building, which, like the window unit, is endowed with certain technical functions and is responsible for the atmosphere in a particular room, and, consequently, for the comfort of living.

If the slopes in the house are not part of the decorative design, but only fully fulfill their heat and moisture protective functions, then, as a rule, no one notices them. But as soon as mold or fungus appears on the wall where the window opening is located, the search for the cause of this problem immediately begins.

Freezing of slopes, flaking of paint from their plastered surface, the appearance of condensate on the slope of PVC, peeling of paper from the surface of drywall - these and other defects force builders to look for other approaches that give better results to finish the internal surfaces of window openings.

Three-layer panels

Sandwich panels made of plastic and polystyrene are designed for decoration and insulation of premises. We are used to the fact that this material is used for the construction of insulated buildings, that it has large dimensions and solid thickness.

But competition forces manufacturers of building materials to quickly meet all the needs of a rapidly growing construction market, so the market special sandwich panels appeared for finishing slopes indoors.

Outwardly, a slope made of a sandwich is difficult to distinguish from one made of a PVC panel - it is also white, it has the same plastic surface. But there are significant differences in terms of quality.

Sandwich panel is an excellent thermal insulation material.

Between its two plastic sheets, a heat insulator (styrofoam) is glued, which, in addition to retaining heat, also serves as a good barrier to sound waves.

A sandwich, unlike plastic, is a rather hard material, and it is quite difficult to damage it.

The thickness of the sandwich panel is the same as that of plastic, so it is mounted according to the same principle - using the F-shaped initial and corner profiles.

So that the appearance of the slopes remains practically unchanged and does not depend on whether a sandwich panel is installed on it or a PVC panel is fixed.

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is not exactly a common material for trimming slopes, however, it can also be used for this purpose by experienced trimmers.

This material can be used in cases where it is required:

• make the warmest possible slope;
• fill too large a distance from the outer plane of the future slope to the plane of the opening;
• install a sufficiently moisture-resistant material on the slope.

Thickness (from 20 mm and above), as well as sufficient rigidity and moisture resistance of foam plastic, easily allow you to perform these three tasks.

Internal foam slopes are installed in the same way as drywall slopes- can be glued or attached to the frame.

The only difference between the finishes of these two materials is that the surface of the drywall is puttied without additional conditions, and on the foam, in view of the rigidity of its surface, before applying the putty, you need to glue the masking fiberglass - “spider line”.

The algorithm for plastering PVC window slopes in the video:

Decorative rock

There are many ways to create the right atmosphere in a single room. Finishing slopes is one of them.

For example, if, according to the designer’s idea, there is a wall or part of it inside the room, finished with decorative stone, then the appearance of this finishing option on the window slopes will be not only a logical, but also an original continuation of the interior solution.

For the bathroom, a natural solution would be to continue the wall pattern, transferred to the plane of the slopes. Often in bathrooms and technical rooms, instead of a plastic window sill, the same finish (tiles or mosaics) is installed on the lower part of the opening, which is on the walls and on the slopes.

Moreover, nothing special needs to be done in preparing the surface for this kind of finish. Tiles, mosaics, decorative stone can be glued to a plastered or plasterboard-covered surface.

Technical points of installation of plastic slopes

The installation of the window block is followed by the finishing of the window opening, that is, the planes adjacent to the window of the upper and side slopes, as well as the installation of the window sill.

Without these elements of the interior decoration of the room, the window will not fully cope with the functions that are inherent in its technical characteristics, and, in general, will not be able to look like a finished product.

On one very important point preceding the device of slopes, I want to draw your attention separately.

Particular attention deserves the preparation of the surface of the window opening for finishing.

Even if the slope itself, made, for example, from sandwich panels or foam plastic, is a heat insulator, then the adjoining of the window frame to the slope plane must still be done using a special technology.

The principle of this technology has long been formulated and confirmed by many years of experience. It consists in the following: the vapor permeability of all adjoining layers must have a certain order.

From the inside, the barrier should be the most gas-vapor-tight, and its density should gradually decrease as it approaches the outer part of the window opening. This is done so that even the minimum moisture, which in any case has the ability to penetrate the slope, finds a way out.

Subject to this rule, a well-arranged adjoining of the window to the frame looks like this:

• from the side of the room, the first (most impervious) layer should consist of butyl rubber tape, for a greater reflective effect covered with aluminum sputtering. Sometimes, instead of a special tape, the junction is smeared with mastic or silicone, but an effect equal to that obtained when using a butyl rubber tape can only be obtained if the mastic layer is at least 6 mm;
• the second layer is ordinary polyurethane foam, which is no longer a good gas-vapor-tight composition, but due to its qualities it can hold back moisture and (which it does especially well) sound waves;
• the third, outer layer, is a self-expanding tape pre-compressed and after gluing onto the frame - PSUL. It protects the mounting foam from exposure to sunlight, passes air well, but prevents the penetration of atmospheric precipitation.

If the connection is made in accordance with all the rules, then you can start building the frame. To do this, you need to stock up on a 60x27 metal wall profile, from which a supporting frame for drywall is usually arranged.

First, a piece of profile is cut along the length equal to the distance from the frame to the edge of the slope. Then, a cutout is made on one side of it, which is folded over and, using short self-tapping screws with a press washer, is attached to the very edge of the window frame in such a way as to be subsequently completely covered by the initial bar.

The opposite side of the profile, after bending the shelves, is nailed to the outer edge of the opening with dowel-nails.

All profiles exposed on the same plane (they must be installed at a distance of 30 cm from each other and without fail directly above the window sill and in the corners at the joints of the panels) should be aligned with a stretched cord.

Another technical point you can take into service if you have to do the finishing of the slopes yourself. And also knowledge of this nuance will not be superfluous when you have to control the work of finishers.

I want to tell you how to properly connect at the junction of the slope and the window frame. For slopes made of plastic panels, foam plastic and sandwich panels, what I will say is irrelevant, but plastered or plasterboard surfaces should have this structural element.

Many paid attention to the fact that with sharp blows of the sash on the window frame, putty or even pieces of plaster in the place where the slope covers the frame gradually begin to crack and fall off.

The main negative role in the appearance of this defect is played by the vibration of the plastic surface of the frame profile. No matter how well the plaster or drywall holds, the putty covering the joint will inevitably crumble due to mechanical stress.

You can avoid such trouble before puttying, for which you need to clean the junction and fill it with silicone - it will dampen the vibration, and also reliably close the junction from the passage of moisture and air.

If it is required that the silicone gasket is not conspicuous and is the same color as the slope, then Acrylic silicone is best suited for these purposes., which can have different colors, and even, if necessary, its surface can be painted in any desired shade.

Slopes as an element of interior decoration

According to one of the dictionaries, the word "escarpment" means a sloping descent or an inclined surface.

It is this definition that is most suitable for those planes that we call window slopes. If the plane of the slopes (whether side or top) is in a strictly perpendicular position to the window frame, then such a slope is considered to be installed in violation of standard requirements.

One of the standards considered mandatory in the construction of window slopes states that each slope plane must have a certain turn in relation to the window frame, called the "angle of dawn".

The dawn angle of the slope plane must be greater than 90 0 relative to the plane of the window block installed in the opening.

All slopes, both side and top, as a rule, should have the same dawn angle, but in practice this rule is not always possible to implement. More often you can find an option when the upper slope is deployed in relation to the frame, but differs in the angle of dawn from the side ones, which should have exactly the same dawn among themselves.

There are no clearly defined parameters that limit the required angle of dawn. It all depends on how much the opening will allow the slope to unfold, and on how the slopes are seen by the owner of the house in which they are settled.

Checking the angle of dawn on an already established slope or, if necessary, calculating it yourself is not difficult. For this procedure, you do not need special goniometers, just a regular ruler and a regular square.

On the edge of the window frame along the edge itself, you need to put a square so that you can measure the distance to the junction of the slope with the wall of the room on which the window opening is located with a ruler.

The resulting distance must be transferred to the opposite slope by setting the square to a point symmetrical to that used for measurement on the previous side.

In the same way, you can make the same dawn angle for the upper slope by placing a square on the edge of the upper crossbar of the frame and transferring the resulting distance to the junction of the upper slope with the wall of the room.

About the advantage of slopes from sandwich panels, see the video:

Advantages and disadvantages of PVC slopes

First of all, it is worth noting that all the shortcomings of plastic slopes lie in the quality of the PVC panels themselves and in poor-quality preparation of the junction of the window and the walls of the opening.

Only the quality of the plastic affects whether the color of this plastic will change during operation. Sometimes plastic, being completely white when installed, loses its color over time or, when the temperature rises (for example, under the influence of ultraviolet rays), it emits an unpleasant odor.

How to deal with this shortcoming, I think, and without me, many will guess on their own - you need to check the quality characteristics of the PVC panel before it is installed in the window opening.

As for poor-quality preparation, then if you decide to install the slopes yourself, you must comply with the conditions that I have already written about in this article.

And in the event that the slopes in your house are made by the construction team, then careful and total control is necessary during the work.

Only after a control check of the device where the frame adjoins the slope can the builders be given the go-ahead for further work.

We talked about the disadvantages, now let's move on to the advantages.

Let's start with the main advantage: the slope, made of plastic, is a collapsible structure.

It is not difficult to disassemble the structure, the basis of which is a frame made of a metal profile or wooden bars.

And if the builders took the path of least resistance (simply speaking, cheated) and, elementarily, inserted the plastic into the fixed strips, then by simply pressing on the panel, you can easily see everything that is under it, and, if necessary, correct the shortcomings made during the device adjoining the frame and window.

The next thing to note is ease of maintenance of the plastic surface. It is difficult to get it dirty, but even if such a nuisance occurs, washing the plastic is as easy as shelling pears.

It can be said that a plastic slope is the most suitable continuation of the finish surrounding the plastic window. And even for the slopes of a wooden house or a room with a “wood-like” finish, it is quite easy to pick up plastic panels that match the color and texture of the material with which the room is decorated.

PVC panels have another clear advantage over other materials used for window slopes - minimum time for their installation.

In addition, when installing plastic slopes in the room where the work is carried out, there is much less “noise and dust”. This is very important in cases where the owners do not plan to do a complete renovation of the room, but are only going to replace the window and install slopes.

Some people who have installed PVC slopes in their apartment note one drawback, which, in their opinion, is striking.

We are talking about an F-shaped bar, more precisely, about that part of it that covers the edge of the plastic at the junction with the wall. It is noted that this part of the bar is too wide (from 3 to 6 cm) and does not look very aesthetically pleasing on the inner wall of the room.

I can suggest how to get rid of this, if I may say so, disadvantage.

It is enough just to treat the protruding surface of the plank a little with fine sandpaper, then prime it, and then you can apply anything on it - from wallpaper to acrylic paints.

Speaking about the technical and quality aspects of plastic slopes, I forgot to say that for many it is a decisive argument in their favor - the cost of materials and installation work. Here, of course, plastic has no competitors.

The material for plaster slopes is also not expensive in itself, but the work on the device will require considerable financial investments (I have already considered this issue).

materials

So, the window block has taken its place in the window opening, the mounting foam has dried, the window junctions are hydro- and gas-insulated, which means that you can proceed with the installation of slopes. What will be required for this? Let's start with materials.

If future slopes will be made of plastic panels, then you need to prepare:

• PVC panels, their usual length is 3m.p. Since the panels on the slopes do not join in length, it means that a whole blank is needed for each slope. A standard 1400x1300mm window will require two panels. It is better if there are several windows. In this case, waste-free production can be organized. Oh, and don't forget to find panels that match the width of the slope;
• the strips that will serve as a border and hold the panel are F-shaped, starting and connecting the inner corner of the profile. These profiles do not have to be placed in whole pieces on long sections; with careful trimming, their joints are almost invisible;
• for the construction of the frame, it is desirable to use a conventional metal profile 60x27mm, which is used when installing drywall;
• self-tapping screws with a press washer 4.2x13. The head of these screws is very flat and will not interfere with the plastic. For a standard window of such self-tapping screws, about 50-70 pieces are needed;
• dowel-nails 6x60 for nailing a metal profile to the wall;
• silicone bottle, preferably white.

We have assembled a set of materials necessary for the slope device. So, it's time to take care of the availability of a tool, without which it is impossible to assemble the frame and install plastic on it.

The tool needed for the installation of plastic slopes

From the construction tool we need:

• tape measure, the length of which is at least 2m;
• plank level from 60 to 120 cm long;
• screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws;
• perforator for mounting dowel-nails;
• drill 6x100mm;
• a set of nozzles for tightening screws;
• a hammer;
• a hacksaw with a fine tooth or a construction knife for cutting plastic panels;
• metal scissors;
• silicone gun.

When everything you need for the slope device will lie next to the window opening, you can get to work. I already described the installation process in detail in this article.

Let me remind you only that the initial profile is placed at the adjunction of the panel to the window frame and at the place where the panel rests on the window sill.

The profile of the inner corner connects the PVC panels to each other at the place of their corner joints.

The F-profile serves to fasten the outer side of the PVC panel, as well as to hide its adjoining to the interior wall.

Some builders, for better thermal insulation of the slope, foam the space under the plastic. It seems to me that such insulation gives only moral satisfaction to those who use this method, and does not bring practical benefits.

I'll explain why.

In order for the mounting foam to fulfill its function, it must fill a space that is closed at least on both sides. A simple, unrestricted application of foam on the wall will be uneven, and therefore useless. If you try to apply foam between a sloped panel and a wall, the result will be deplorable, since the foam will inevitably squeeze out the plastic.

If there is a desire, in addition to a properly arranged junction, to additionally insulate the space under the panel, then you can go the other way. To do this, you need foam and glue to fix it.

The foam is selected in thickness so as not to interfere with the plastic panel, is applied to the wall of the opening and glued.

Such internal insulation of the slope is both reliable and does not threaten any troubles during the production of work.

One more nuance you can take note of. Before installing the plastic panel, it is desirable to cut off its mounting spike, then the front part will go deeper into the initial profile and, therefore, will be more securely fixed in it.

Technology for leveling plastic slopes in the video:

What material are the best slopes?

Such a statement of the question is not entirely correct, it is better to reformulate it in a different way: in which room is it best to install a certain type of slopes. In this case, you can give the most correct answer.

If the room is finished under a tree

For a room in which the main element of decoration is natural wood or imitation wood, slopes can also be made either from natural wood - lining, or from wood-laminated plastic, or from fiberboard also coated with lamination.

What is good about this type of finishing slopes? First of all, a modest expenditure of money, if a plastic panel is taken as the basis for the finishing material.

The only thing I would like to note is that wood and laminated fiberboard are still afraid of high humidity.

Therefore, if the question is only that the appearance of the slopes continues the wooden theme of the room, then it is still better to install plastic under the tree. This is all the more simple because the choice of options for plastic panels on the construction market today, as they say, is for every taste and color.

Standard solution to the problem with the installation of slopes

Slopes made of plaster composition, puttied and painted are pure classics, and like any classic, they can fit any interior solution, except for wood finishes.

The advantage of plastered slopes is their solidity and reliability, as well as the ability to absorb and release moisture. In other words, they can breathe.

However, plaster has much more disadvantages:

• before plastering, it is necessary to thoroughly insulate the walls of the openings. If this is not done with special care, then the plaster may freeze through, since it is not a heat-shielding compound in itself;
• as a rule, acrylic paint is applied to the plastered slope with the last finishing layer, which has to be updated periodically;
• the sloping process takes a lot of time (of course, if all operations are carried out according to the technology);
• the cost of installing a plastered slope is much higher than the cost of installation using methods using other materials.

Non-standard approach

A new type of slope finishing is a cork coating on their surface.

Although cork belongs to materials that imitate a wooden surface, but, in my opinion, on the slopes it looks like a completely independent element of decoration.

Everything that has a smooth and even surface can serve as the basis for cork: plaster, drywall. The cork can be glued to plastic using a special adhesive composition.

Each house has rooms that can be described as special or designed for certain purposes. These include a swimming pool, boiler room, bathroom, laundry.

Since the premises are defined as “special”, the approach to finishing their slopes can be highly specialized.

What are the requirements for finishing window openings in such premises? They must be reliable, do not absorb moisture, maintainable and do not lose their appearance from frequent washing.

Under the required conditions, only ceramic tiles glued to a plastered base are suitable. You can, of course, glue the tiles on drywall fixed to the frame, but then this slope will not fit the definition of “repairable”, because a broken or cracked tile can only be removed together with the base - drywall.

Finishing the slopes with the help of plasterboard installed on the frame and puttied and painted is also one of the ways to ennoble the appearance of the window opening.

Why do I classify drywall installation as a non-standard slope finishing method? Because it is necessary to use this method only in the case when the slopes will not be in a zone of high humidity.

And you need to remember that only moisture-resistant drywall can be used for finishing slopes.

Although its use does not guarantee complete moisture protection, as, for example, in the case of finishing slopes with PVC panels.

popular way

The logic that guides those who decide to decorate the window openings of their apartment with plastic is quite simple: if the window is made of PVC, then why not make slopes from the same material?

And the correctness of this logic begins to be confirmed from the very first moment, when the builders start working on the device slopes.

In the event that the finishing of the slopes takes place in a living room where other repairs are not carried out, except for replacing the window, this method is indeed the least traumatic for the psyche of the owners of this room, since it does not take much time and practically leaves no traces.

The next plus: if necessary, the plastic can be easily dismantled and checked, what state is the space under it.

Perhaps this dignity will seem to someone an unnecessary thing, but, based on my experience, I can say that this is not so.

Let me tell you why I think so.

Sometimes it happens that after installing a hermetically sealed window in a poorly ventilated room, dark spots appear on the walls, especially in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe window opening and in the corners - this problem is called “mold formation”.

The fight against this phenomenon, long and difficult, begins with the discovery of the causes of mold, and they (reasons) can be of the most diverse properties. We will consider them all in detail if you have a question on this topic.

In the meantime, I will focus on one of them, which directly relates to our today's conversation. This reason is that the window opening, that is, the area around the window, closed by slopes, can become the initial place of mold.

Mold can form anywhere, but for this you need to comply with several mandatory conditions: high humidity, lack of access to fresh air, variable temperature, lack of sunlight.

If the adjoining of the window block with the wall of the opening is made in violation of the rules that I have already told you about, then inevitably, whether under plaster or under plastic, mold will begin to appear.

True, mold travels a longer path in plaster until it comes out, but when it appears on the surface of the slope, it can be completely destroyed only by completely dismantling the plaster. Which, as you can imagine, is not an easy task.

When the reason for the appearance of mold is not clear, the only way to find out is to look at all the places where its victorious move around the apartment may have begun.

First of all, you will probably want to look at what is being done under the slope plastic, and make sure that the window connection is reliable. It was then that all the charm of the quick-collapsing frame for PV X panels, which you will install in your apartment, will be revealed.

Another item in the piggy bank of the advantages of plastic slopes is their cost. b. Even if the cost of materials is added to the cost of work, then plastic slopes are out of competition.

Moreover, the installation of PVC slopes will be out of competition if you do them yourself, guided by my recommendations and spending only:

• your personal time;
• a small amount of money for building materials;
• a certain amount of money for a construction tool, which will probably come in handy more than once.

I think we can add a clause here about the mandatory presence of a protective tape on the window profile, which many people are in a hurry to remove immediately after installing the window block.

You should be aware that this protection element is immediately dismantled only from the outside s, since there is a possibility of welding it to plastic under the influence of high temperature and sunlight.

On the inside of the window frame, the protective tape can only be removed after finishing the slopes.

Otherwise, damage to the surface of the window profile is possible, especially during plastering work.

Starting the finishing of the slopes, you need to take care of maintaining the window sill in a pre-repair condition. In terms of protection, special hopes cannot be placed on the film that is applied to its surface, because a tool that accidentally falls out of the hands can leave an “indelible” mark on the surface of the window sill. Therefore, for the time being, while the slopes are being arranged, it is best to put a piece of thick cardboard on the windowsill.

If the finishing of the slopes consists in applying a plaster composition, then a prerequisite for the further normal operation of the curtains of the window sashes is their preservation from sand from the solution. Some builders who did not pay attention to such a "trifle" after a while have to explain to the owners of the installed windows why the curtains suddenly began to creak and dangle.

Finally, I again want and must remind everyone who is going to replace window blocks in their house and, of course, after this work, arrange window slopes: the basis for the long-term service of any material that is used for decoration (even the most popular - plastic) is a high-quality arrangement of places adjoining the frame to the window opening.

For the angle of turn of the slopes of plastic windows, see the video:

Slopes and window sills protect openings from destruction and close gaps. Moisture and cold do not seep through. The room maintains an optimal microclimate. Slopes made of PVC panels give the windows a finished aesthetic look. They reflect the rays, increasing the illumination of the room. The surface repels dust and is easy to clean.
Polyvinyl chloride does not emit harmful substances. It is made from natural and safe ingredients. Framing the window with PVC panels looks harmonious, since the metal profile of the window frame is covered with the same material. You can install slopes and decorate with a platband with your own hands.

Slopes made of PVC panels give the windows a finished aesthetic look.

Do-it-yourself slope installation

The main advantage of PVC panels is the ease of installation. They are easily cut on a circular saw and grinder. In the absence of equipment, they can be cut with a mounting knife. Therefore, slopes for windows made of PVC panels can be made by hand. This will significantly reduce the cost of window decoration.

The main advantage of PVC panels is their ease of installation.

Installation without work experience can be done in one day, except for the preparation of plaster for soft plastic:

1. Close up all the cracks left after the installation of the window. Fill gaps. Outside, putty the foam with a special solution that protects it from destruction by UV rays.
2. Prepare a place for a PVC window sill. From the sides there should be a gap of 5 - 7 mm per meter of length for thermal expansion. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the lower end of the opening near the frame and are leveled. They must ensure a tight fit of the plate between the bottom of the frame and the heads. On the sides and along the plane, stops from the rails are installed.
3. The free space under the frame is filled with foam. The window sill is tightly inserted into the groove. The voids between the stops are foamed. The angle of inclination inside the room is set to three degrees.
4. Prepare side surfaces. Screw wooden planks around the perimeter from the outside. Since the window frame is level, you can check with it. The dawn angle is within 10% of the width - the size is not hosted, you can change it to your taste.

Do-it-yourself plastic slopes

1. The starting profile is screwed into the inner corners. PVC panels will be inserted into it.
2. The dimensions are verified, the upper crossbar is cut. The protrusion at the end is cut off. The PVC panel is inserted into the starting profile, foamed around the perimeter, and jumpers are made. With the help of adhesive tape, it is attached to the bar and is set evenly.
3. Side panels are placed after the top. The installation procedure is the same.
4. If the F-profile serves as a platband, then it is attached immediately. Decorative strips are installed after removing the adhesive tape.
5. Trim trim at the corners. Seal all gaps between the PVC panels and the profile with sealant.

Attention! PVC slopes are installed in one step and are not removed. Dimensions must be adjusted immediately.

Types of PVC panels for window slopes

There are three main types of window panels:

• sandwich;
• porous plastic;
• wall.

Sandwich panels for slopes are completely made of PVC. The outer surfaces are strong and hard. Soft insulation inside. Their thickness is 8 mm. The starter and F-profile are sold in the kit for installation. For finishing with a platband, they can have a decorative strip. Width from 250 to 500 mm. Length depending on the manufacturer and modification up to 6 meters. On the side there is an installation groove or cable channel.

Slope sandwich panels made entirely of PVC

Slope plastic is thin and requires perfect surface leveling. Used as a finish after plastering. It is glued to a dry surface with special glue. A budget and simple option for those who want to improve the look of windows with their own hands.
The wall panels are rigid. They have a corrugated surface on the back side. Longitudinal recesses compensate for the thermal expansion of the material and increase rigidity. Installing them is more difficult than with PVC sandwich panels. If there is no experience in installing slopes and platbands, then do not risk doing it yourself. Use the services of specialized teams.

Slope plastic is thin and requires perfect surface leveling

Window slopes and window sills, insulation of the walls of the opening

In addition to the decorative look, slopes and window sills are installed for insulation. The platbands close the gaps formed during the installation of the window. All cracks must be carefully sealed with your own hands. Otherwise, dew will form. Moisture will destroy the material of the opening, and the cold will penetrate into the house.
Outside, the foam must be putty with a special solution and painted over. It breaks down when exposed to sunlight.
When making slopes with your own hands, pay attention to the space under the windowsill. After the foam dries, cut off the excess. Seal all cracks with putty. Before lining with a casing, level the surface of the walls around the opening. Then the decorative strip will lie evenly and tightly.

Installation of plastic slopes

Plastered slopes - a budget option

The most affordable and budget option to make slopes is plaster. First clean and deepen the seams between the bricks. Apply the solution in several layers. You can use ready-made dry mix or make your own. In addition to cement and sand, it is desirable to add gypsum. It gives the surface smoothness, but hardens faster.
Install strips or perforated profiles in the corners. This will ensure strength and linear evenness. The last layer is done with a finishing putty. Everything is checked with a ruler. Irregularities are cleaned up. After that primer and paint.
Plastered slopes require constant attention and regular, after 3 years, a new coat of paint.

The most affordable and budget option to make slopes is plaster

PVC door frames

Interior door openings can be finished with PVC panels. They are selected according to the color of the canvas. Mostly rigid wall panels are used. The installation procedure is the same. Only fastening is done with dowels through PVC into the wall with hardened self-tapping screws. Hats are masked with special mastic.

Interior door openings can be finished with PVC panels

Sealant is matched to the color of plastic panels. The trim is a decorative strip, which is additionally attached to the wall with glue and sealed around the outer perimeter with putty so that there is no gap.

Replacing old frames with modern plastic windows is half the task. The next step, which is often forgotten, is the installation of window slopes. Proper execution and finishing of slopes plays an equally important role in warming an apartment as. You can invite a craftsman to carry out the work or save a little on builders and make slopes yourself.

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Types of slopes

The complexity of the work on finishing the slopes depends on the quality of the walls, the accuracy of the craftsmen when working with windows and the selected material for finishing. There are only three basic ways:

• with subsequent decor (painting or wallpapering);
• plastic framing;
• cover .

Slopes are also made of wood - coniferous (most often pine) or valuable species (beech, oak, mahogany). This is a rather laborious method that requires professional work with wood. Stylish wooden slopes look in expensive interiors, where the rest of the furnishings are also made using wood. Do-it-yourself repairs can be completed if you choose a simpler material for slopes of plastic windows.

Plastic slopes

Plastering and painting slopes

This method of processing slopes is the most economical and simple. The finished dry mix, which is based on gypsum or cement, is mixed with water in the proportion specified by the manufacturer, after which the material is ready for use.

Note!

Before applying the plaster, the surface around the window is cleaned of dust, dirt, sagging or mounting foam.

The seams of corners and slopes are expanded so that the plaster adheres better to the base - a brick wall. The wall is plastered first, and only then proceed to the slopes.

Slope installation

Crack sealing

When performing slopes, the tightness of the joints of the wall and window is additionally checked. The found gaps are sealed with mounting foam, you can use tow or felt. Fabric materials are treated with a gypsum solution and fixed along the perimeter of the frame.

2-3 cm should remain to the side parts of the window opening - this gap will be filled with plaster. When the material dries, work can continue. Do-it-yourself window slopes are not very fast, but you can be sure of the quality of each stage of work.

Plastering slopes - the final stage

A little solution is laid in the groove of the slope, leveled, waited for drying and moved on to the next layer. At one time, you can apply 5-7 mm of the solution, then you need to wait for the material to dry completely. Align the layers from bottom to top.

Before applying the plaster, the upper part of the slope is fixed with a horizontal plank of wood - its edge must be perfectly even. Fix the rail to the plaster or nails, exposing the guide along.

Slopes on windows

Advantages of plastic slopes

Installing plastic slopes will take much less time than working with plaster. This option for finishing windows will cost a little more, but there will be less dust and dirt after the slopes are completed, and the process will go faster.

The plastic panels are made of the same material as the window frames. With temperature changes, the slopes and frames expand in the same way, excess stress is not created. There is no need to paint or prepare PVC panels for installation. To eliminate the "consequences" of the repair, a damp cloth is enough, and the entire installation process will take no more than 2 hours.

For slopes, plastics are suitable that are not exposed to the harmful effects of solar radiation and are strong enough, resistant to scratches and impacts. Typically, sandwich panels are selected with a top layer of plastic, an intermediate layer of insulating material and a bottom layer of moisture-resistant PVC.

How to make slopes on windows with your own hands video:

Installation of plastic slopes

Previously, fragments are cut out of the panels according to the size of the slopes. The panels are fixed on the cleaned surface with the help of "liquid nails". With a rail with a snap-in corner, the plastic is attached in the selected position. Instead of such a design, you can also use simple wooden slats, fixing them at the top and along the sides of the window opening. The panels are attached to the guides with a stapler.

The joints of the walls and slopes are made out with plastic corners. Their purpose is to keep the wallpaper intact on the walls adjacent to the window being designed. It is these parts that are most often damaged by children and pets.

Performing slopes on the windows with your own hands, it is worth observing the technological nuances. It is better to choose plastic panels to match the shade of the window, since they do not have to be painted. Before using the panels, the mounting spike is cut off from them. Panels should be cut with a special knife or jigsaw.

Mounting foam may deform during solidification. To prevent this from happening and the slopes remain smooth, they select foam with a minimum expansion coefficient. The slopes must be additionally fixed for 5-10 minutes until the foam "grabs".

Drywall slopes

Do-it-yourself slopes for plastic windows are quite easy to make from drywall. For work, a moisture-resistant material is chosen that will not suffer from accidental raindrops and condensate that accumulates on the glass. An alternative option is to use ordinary drywall, which will additionally be covered with several layers of primer or a special protective compound.

When performing drywall slopes, sometimes they put a window block with profiles on the sides - it will be the basis of the whole structure. Before mounting the block, the profile must be fixed in the window grooves. Then the system will be more reliable and tougher, and installation will be easier.

Installation of plasterboard slopes without a window unit

You can do without ready-made frames by doing all the preparatory work yourself. In this case, you will need a profile in the shape of the letter "L" and fix it along the edges of the frame, creating a base for attaching drywall sheets. The material is cut exactly to size, inconsistencies can later be masked and corrected with plaster. An acrylic-based sealant is applied to the profile, then a drywall sheet is inserted. The distance between the window and the slope is laid with a layer of mineral wool, a layer of glue is applied to the near edges, and using a level, the drywall sheet is carefully pressed against the wall.

Alternative ways to install drywall slopes

It is not necessary to use a profile when making slopes. You can fix drywall:

• on mounting foam;
• on glue.

It is convenient to use metal frames in cases where the surface under the slopes was badly damaged during the installation of windows. Fastening drywall panels to glue or foam is carried out in the same way as fastening to a profile. In this case, the sheets are installed end-to-end or behind the frame, the seams are filled with sealant. After the work is completed, the surface is primed, covered with putty and two layers of paint.

Note!

The corners of the slopes can be covered with decorative corners.

Drywall slopes are not only profitable and easy to install. The surface of the material can be additionally decorated, which allows you to design windows in the style of the entire room. The slopes will not contrast with the design of the room and spoil the impression of the interior.

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The process of installing windows is coming to an end and you are already in anticipation of the new look of the room? However, do not forget about the slopes, without which it is clearly impossible to get an aesthetic picture. How to make slopes on plastic windows? How difficult is it to do it yourself? You will receive answers to these questions by reading the article.

As a result of reading our article, you will have the same beautiful window

Why plastic slopes

Currently, plastic slopes are becoming more and more in demand. A one-piece design that fits into any interior quite harmoniously, low cost and ease of installation, which allows you to do all the work yourself - these are the main competitive advantages of panels made of plastic.

There are two ways to make plastic slopes with your own hands:

1. by using start profiles;
2. without using the start profile.

The starting profile allows you to install slopes as evenly as possible, which, in turn, will affect the correct shape of the window as a whole. In addition, its use in the construction of slopes allows you to get a strong hermetic connection. However, there are times when using the start profile is quite difficult or even impossible. For example, if the distance from the wall to the frame is too small.

Advantages

The advantages of slopes made of plastic include the following factors:

• low cost;
• fairly long service life;
• a wide range of colors and as a result the ability to decorate any room;
• ease of care, because dirt is perfectly removed from the plastic with a damp cloth;
• quick and easy installation;
• Possibility of use both indoors and outdoors.

Flaws

The disadvantages of plastic slopes include exposure to high temperatures. In addition, if for some reason a crack or hole appears on the plastic, you will have to change the panel completely.

The choice of panel thickness for slopes

If you have made your choice in favor of plastic slopes, let's figure out how to make them yourself. The first thing you will encounter is the purchase of the panels themselves. Do not choose them with a thickness of less than 8 mm. Based on the dimensions of your window opening, take panels with a small margin, especially if this will be your first slope.

In addition, you will also need the following materials:

• mounting foam;
• wooden blocks that will be attached to the side and upper sides of the window opening;
• self-tapping screws and dowels for fixing the starting profile and wooden bars;
• the starting profile itself and the F-shaped bar;
• silicone in the color of plastic panels;
• decorative corners;
• liquid Nails.

Do not forget that slopes can be made only 36 hours after the end of the window installation. It is during this period that the mounting foam finally hardens.

Installation of slopes using the starting profile

Procedure (photos can be enlarged by clicking on them):

We clean the wall from various debris, cut off the foam where it will interfere with work.

We protect the glass and frame from possible damage, if necessary.

We determine all the dimensions of the window and cut out the wooden bars of the desired length.

We fasten the bars

We fasten the bars on each side of the window using a level. The heads of the self-tapping screws are sunk a few mm into the tree.

We carefully check the position of the wooden frame: all the bars must be in the same plane. If at this stage you give a blunder with evenness, you can forget about the correct geometric shape of the window as a whole.

We fix the starting profile

Along the very edge of the wooden bars, we mount the starting profile as tightly as possible to the frame itself using a construction stapler. It is very important to cut the profile exactly at an angle of 45 degrees in those places where there will be a point of contact between the horizontal and vertical planes. Otherwise, it will not be possible to achieve a perfectly flat surface. It is best to purchase a profile that is denser, as it will not bend. Moreover, it will take no more than 3 meters to finish one window.
Measure and cut

We insert a plastic panel into the groove of the starting profile and mark the height of the opening. After that, we take out and carefully cut. To avoid unpleasant situations, remember that we measure and cut each panel separately with a small margin.

We insert the panels already cut to size with one edge into the starting profile, carefully fill the space between the panel and the wall with mounting foam. You should not foam the slope too much, because it can be severely spread or even a bend or crack may appear if the plastic is not of high quality. The closer the outer edge of the opening, the less foam.

We fix the leveled slope with masking tape for 24 hours.

Cover with tape until completely dry.

After that, we close the places of contact between the wall and the slope with decorative corners, which we fasten with liquid nails.

The vertical and horizontal stripes that cover the insulation are cut out at an angle of 45 degrees.

We seal all existing joints with silicone in the color of the panels.

What to do if the distance from the panel to the wall is too large

If the distance from the wall to the future slope is quite large, it is reasonable to make another frame of wooden bars along the outer perimeter of the window opening:

1. An F-shaped bar is fastened to it, also with the help of building brackets.
2. We insulate the space between the wall and the future slope, and then insert the panel with one edge into the starting profile, and with the other into the F-shaped bar.
3. After that, we fix each panel to the F-shaped bar using staples in increments of 20-30 cm at an angle of 45 degrees, install decorative corners and seal all joints with silicone.

When working with mounting foam, you should know a few features. If the surface is smooth, the level of grip will not be very good. In order to avoid this, the surface, which will later be turned to the wall, should be treated with a sandpaper and a primer. In addition, for the full polymerization of the foam, the surface must be slightly damp. For this reason, the slope wall is minimally sprayed with water.

Mounting without using the start profile

The procedure, the first steps are the same as the first method:

1. We completely clean the walls of debris and interfering foam.

2. Also, do not forget to protect the glass and frame from possible damage, for example, with mounting tape.

3. We measure the size of all external window openings and cut out wooden bars of the desired size.

Rails are fixed around the perimeter

4. We fasten the bars evenly on each side with the help of self-tapping screws. The heads of the self-tapping screws are sunk a few mm into the tree.

Cutout in the foam across the width of the panels

5. We measure the width of the plastic panel and exactly the same amount of mounting foam is cut around the entire perimeter of the frame.

6. Carefully mark the panels (taking into account 1 cm, which will go into the foam and a little should be taken as a reserve) and cut out. For greater convenience, you can use cardboard or old wallpaper as a stencil. If the cut edge is uneven, it should be processed with a file or sandpaper.

Inserting the top panel

7. Insert the panel with one edge 1 cm into the cutout prepared in the foam, and fix it to the wooden bar with the other. The easiest way is to use a construction stapler, driving staples every 20-30 cm at an angle of 45 degrees.

This is how it should be

8. The cavity between the wall and the slope is insulated with mineral wool or mounting foam.

We fix the joints with masking tape until the foam grabs

9. We close the contact points of the wall and the slope with decorative corners fixed on liquid nails.

10. All joints are sealed with silicone.

2. Mounting method without starting profile:

Rules for finishing the slopes of plastic windows and step-by-step installation instructions for your own hands

Replacing old frames with the installation of new window blocks makes the slopes unusable. Installation work is accompanied by cleaning of the plaster layer adjacent to the attachment points. As a result, the space around the window looks unaesthetic. When finishing the slopes of plastic windows, the traditional method and modern, less labor-intensive technologies are used.

The device and materials of slopes

Window slopes perform decorative, light and heat protection functions. The mounting seams between the window system and the wall are covered with foam, which must be protected from ultraviolet radiation. Under its influence, the building material begins to collapse, as a result, through cracks may form.

The heat-insulating layer next to the frame will eliminate the penetration of cold air from the street. The design of the window space is an integral part of the room design, which should harmoniously fit into the interior.

PVC panels

For slopes, a plastic ceiling lining is used. It is made in the form of two plates with internal jumpers, giving it rigidity. As a finish, panels with a thickness of 1.2 centimeters are suitable. Thinner ones will have finger dents when installed and will not withstand the pressure of the foam. The color scale of plastic panels allows to pick up any tone. Natural wood frames are suitable for plates with imitation of natural material. When installing PVC planes, you will need fittings that hide corner joints and places of contact with the wall and frame.

Surface cladding is also performed with special thermally insulating sandwich panels, in which polystyrene is located between the plastic plates. The thickness of the wall panels is from 1.2 to 1.5 centimeters with a width of 1-1.2 meters.

Advantages of slopes made of PVC and sandwich panels:

• moisture resistance;
• frost resistance;
• ease of care;
• environmental friendliness;
• creating a hard, even surface;
• combination with plastic windows;

Installation is not accessible to a specialist finisher, if you follow the installation instructions carefully and slowly.

Plaster

The traditional method of finishing slopes with a cement and putty mixture, followed by painting. Plastering requires experience and time to make the coating even, without cracks. High-quality plaster has a long service life.

Drywall

Dry plaster (drywall) is often used as internal slopes. The building material is easy to work with, it can be installed with a heater. To protect against moisture and create an interior, plasterboard panels are primed and painted.

Necessary tools and materials for installation

The complete list of tools depends on the finish option.

Tools needed for any kind of design:

1. Level. With its help, planes are leveled, profiles, strips are installed.
2. Square. The slope angle from the frame can be straight or more, which is determined by the tool.
3. Pencil for marking walls and panels.
4. Tape measure to determine the size of the opening and material consumption.

To plaster the surface of the opening, you will need:

• trowel for applying cement and putty mixture;
• spatulas for leveling slopes;
• rule for guides;
• grater for grouting surfaces;
• corner leveler;
• container for the mixture;
• power tool with kneading attachment.

For plastic panels and drywall you need:

• a sharp blade to cut the foam;
• saw for metal - cut panels;
• scissors for metal - cut fittings;
• gun for polyurethane foam and sealant;
• construction stapler.

Plastered surfaces and drywall are primed and painted with flute brushes. Accessories for the installation of plastic panels:

• starting profile;
• F‑profile;
• corner profile;
• self-tapping screws / dowels;
• Staples.

Wooden slats will be needed for plastering openings and can be used when installing PVC panels. When replacing plastic plates on a sandwich panel, there is no need for a start and corner profile.

Depending on the type of slopes, they purchase mounting foam, putty, primer mixture, paint, white silicone.

How to properly trim the internal slopes with your own hands

Regardless of the finishing option, preparatory work is carried out:

• remove old plaster if it is cracked;
• remove wallpaper or a layer of paint;
• clean surfaces from dust;
• primed with an antifungal agent.

Further steps depend on the type of design of the window pier.

Plaster without insulation

The sequence of finishing the openings with a plaster-putty mixture:

1. Installation along the outer contour of the window opening of a metal profile (external guides) using a level. Wall fixing with dowels. The profile should be wider than the edge of the wall by the thickness of the plaster layer (about 1 centimeter).
2. The perforated corner is attached close to the frame in height and width (internal guides). Its height must coincide with the protruding edge of the outer profile.
3. The prepared mixture is applied to the walls for a given thickness of the plaster. An outer corner is formed.
4. After the beginning of the hardening of the solution, it is leveled with the help of a rule and guides. The movement starts from the window sill to the ceiling, along the guides. Excess mixture is immediately removed.
5. After the plaster has dried, the outer profile is removed. A gypsum putty is applied to the corner ledges, on which a paint corner is installed.
6. When the paint corner dries, its inside is hidden under a new layer of putty, leveled by the rule. Outside, they are fixed with a mortar, pressing and leveling with a spatula.
7. For internal corners use an angled spatula.
8. A millimeter of finishing putty is applied to the finished layer.
9. The last stage: grouting the surface.

Plastered surfaces are primed and painted.

Plaster with insulation

Thermal insulation of plastered slopes keeps the walls warm in any frost. For insulation, polystyrene foam panels up to 1.5 centimeters in thickness are used. Installation begins with side slopes. "Liquid nails" are applied to the surface of the panel and glued to the prepared (leveled, dust-free) wall.

Wide slopes require additional fixation for strength. From the side of the wall, a dowel with a wide cap (fungal dowel) is inserted into the insulation (recessed by 1 millimeter), through which spacer nails are driven in.

Then, corners are glued to the outer corners, from which a fiberglass mesh is laid to reinforce the plaster layer. Buttons are used to evenly distribute the mesh over the foam, after which a thin layer of starting putty is applied to it. After leveling and complete drying, a finishing putty is applied. The completion of work is similar to puttying without insulation.

PVC panels

The fastening of ordinary plastic panels and panels with insulation has minor differences. A starting profile is attached along the inner contour, to which a corner profile is attached. A plastic F-profile is attached to the outer edge of the opening, which acts as a panel holder and trim. Then they make measurements of the slopes, cutting the material and installation. Sandwich panels are mounted with a starting profile or through a groove in the mounting joint.

Installation of plasterboard slopes

To remove slopes from drywall, you will need mounting foam, putty. Installation begins by cutting a gap in the mounting foam around the window frame. With a clerical knife, a recess is made in it by 5 millimeters per sheet width. Slopes are measured and material is cut.

The top slope is placed first. Putty is applied to the edge. Drywall is inserted and slightly bent. The gap between the slope and the wall is foamed, after which the slope is pressed with a piece of board along the entire length of the slope.

Until the foam is completely dry, the slope must be pressed against the wall.

Sidewalls are installed in the same way. Then a metal corner is glued to the putty around the entire perimeter. After drying, drywall is puttied twice: with a starting and finishing mixture. The last stage of installation: priming, painting.

How to install plastic slopes step by step

A more detailed description of the installation of plastic slopes presents a step-by-step procedure.

Ordinary

PVC panels are installed using profiles and mounting foam.

Opening preparation

If plastic windows were replaced, then wallpaper, paint should be removed from the slopes using water or a building hair dryer. Old plaster is removed, preventing the full opening of the window. Then, with a sharp knife, the foam protruding beyond the horizontal of the window frame is cut off. Foam is removed in the new building. The surface of the window opening is primed with an antiseptic.

Guide profile fasteners

Starting plastic profiles are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, starting from the top opening.

Do-it-yourself plastic slopes - quality for centuries

Necessary tools and materials

After installing new windows, do you feel like something is missing? Of course - you need to finish the slopes. And there is nothing difficult in installing plastic slopes with your own hands!

Why is it better to stay on plastic slopes?

If you decide that it's time to replace your old windows with new PVC windows, then you will have to carry out additional work to install new slopes. The slope is the space that is between the window and the wall. Literally a couple of years ago, this part of the window opening was given almost no attention - most often the space was simply plastered and whitewashed. However, today it became clear that this amount of work is not enough.

Indeed, without well-treated slopes, the rooms will be damp, warm air will go outside through unsealed cracks and cracks, and mold may appear in the corners of windows due to dampness and temperature differences. High-quality processing of slopes will save you from such problems., especially since the cost of modern products is quite pleasant. In addition, plastic products have other advantages. So, they include:

• low cost of products;
• simple installation of plastic slopes with your own hands;
• a wide selection of colors, so you can choose panels that match the design of the room;
• practicality and long service life.

In addition, we must not forget that such slopes will fully correspond to the window material, which is very important. For example, plaster slopes due to a mismatch in characteristics may begin to flake off after a few years. Although, it is worth recognizing, there are disadvantages. So, such products are characterized by low resistance to damage, and therefore all work must be carried out as carefully as possible.

But this minus is easily "overlapped" by significant advantages. Thus, choosing from the mass of existing options (wooden and plaster slopes, drywall slopes), it is preferable to focus on PVC products.

Do-it-yourself plastic slopes - execution technology

Decided to install plastic slopes with your own hands? In fact, there is nothing complicated in this work, and absolutely any person who knows how to hold construction tools in their hands will cope with it. The main thing is to follow our instructions exactly.

How to install plastic slopes with your own hands - step by step diagram

Step 1: Surface preparation

After installing windows, there is often dust and dirt that needs to be removed. In addition, do not forget about the need to remove excess foam. At this stage, the vapor barrier tape (inside the room) and waterproofing tape (outside) should also be applied, especially for those who have wooden frames installed. Otherwise, after a couple of years, even the highest quality windows will begin to freeze through.

Step 2: Applying the primer

On the entire surface of future slopes, we apply a primer or a special antifungal solution, which can be purchased at a hardware store. You can start the next step only after the mixture is completely dry.

Step 3: Installing the start profile

Starting profile - a product that allows you to install slopes without the use of materials such as glue or silicone. It is attached either to the leveling rail, or to the window itself - as it is more convenient for anyone. However, experts prefer to choose the first option, considering it more reliable and practical. To install the leveling rail, measure the length along the inside of the slope. Next, we cut off the bar according to the specified parameters and fasten it with self-tapping screws along the contour of the window.

After mounting the rail, we attach the starting profile to it. For this, it is preferable to use a construction stapler. If you decide not to install a leveling bar, then the starting profile is attached to the window using self-tapping screws in increments of up to 20 cm.

Step 4: Installing the batten

To create the crate, we use bars measuring 2 * 4 cm, which are attached to the outer edge of the slope with nails. To check the correct installation, it is advisable to use the building level.

Step 5: Installing plastic slopes

Installation of slopes starts with the installation of the upper bar. To begin with, we cut the product along the length, then carefully insert it into the starting profile and align it in width, cutting off the unnecessary. After the product has fallen into place, we fill the space between the wall and the slope with mounting foam. Don't forget that the foam will expand a little as it dries - if you don't leave some room for the foam, the slope may warp after a while. Then we press the product to the crate and fix it with self-tapping screws. The side slopes are installed in the same way.

Important: It is best to use a jigsaw to trim the product. As a last resort, you can use a metal file, the main thing is that it is equipped with small teeth - this minimizes the risk of damage to plastic materials.

Step 6: Installing the Trim

Platbands - products that perform several tasks at once after the installation of slopes. Their main function is to connect two mating surfaces so that the appearance of the window and wall looks complete. In addition, it is the platbands that close the connecting seams from moisture, sunlight, dust and dirt.

We measure the length of the platbands we need and cut it off using a hacksaw. By the way, it is undesirable to use a jigsaw for this operation, which can lead to damage to the product. The profile is carefully inserted into the ends of plastic products without the use of any connecting materials.

Step 7: Finishing Stage

At this stage, we need to carry out work to prevent the ingress of small debris and moisture between the slope and the window: it is better to seal all joints with white sealant. For its high-quality application, use a construction syringe, and carefully remove the remnants of the material with a rubber spatula that will not scratch the PVC slopes.

Proper surface care - and repairs are not needed

Now you know how to install plastic slopes with your own hands. But it should be noted that, despite all their positive qualities, PVC slopes and other window elements require care and maintenance. Only in this case can we talk about their long service life.

• Glasses and frames can be cleaned with common cleaning products. The main thing is that they do not contain "aggressive" ingredients (for example, alkali, acetone, solvents). On sale you can also find special care products for PVC surfaces.
• All moving parts of the window should be lubricated at least twice a year with tar-free technical products. This will extend the life of the products.
• All seals should be flushed with clean water to remove dirt and treated with cleaners containing glycerin.

If you want your windows to serve you as long as possible, you should consider the following tips from experts:

Installation of plastic slopes. How to make slopes

Do-it-yourself apartment renovation

Plastic windows have become an integral part of our lives in the modern world. But installing such windows is only half the battle. After installation, you need to make window slopes. Slopes - this is the gap between the plastic window and the inner surface of the wall, that is, the window opening. Slopes are distinguished as internal (located inside the room) and external (located on the outside of the window). Today we will talk about how to make internal slopes with your own hands.

Many people think that if the window is installed and foamed, then it has excellent insulation. In fact, this is not entirely true, since mounting foam, if it is not protected, can quickly absorb moisture, and deform during strong temperature changes. Therefore, the installation of slopes must be done in any case.

Since they not only hide all the defects of the window opening, but also protect the mounting seams, improve noise and heat insulation, and also prevent the windows from fogging up. But all these positive properties will appear only with their high-quality and proper installation. With poor installation, up to 40% of heat will go through the slopes. From this we can draw an unambiguous conclusion: the installation of slopes of plastic windows is important and mandatory!

How to make slopes. Types of slopes

Stucco slopes
If we consider plaster products, we can see that they do not have many advantages, but more disadvantages. Over time, the plaster will begin to crack, there will be a loss of color under the influence of the sun, and in the event of an inevitable shrinkage of the house, it can generally “move away” from the wall structure. In addition, these structures are not convenient in terms of installation time.

Slopes are plastered in with the help of several layers, while each layer must be allowed to stand and dry. Then they are primed and painted. The whole process takes 1-2 weeks. And besides, when plastering slopes, it is desirable to have certain skills so that they turn out to be even. These slopes do not imply thermal insulation devices, therefore, with each hypothermia, condensation will appear on the window panes.

Drywall slopes
Products made of drywall are much more durable than their plaster counterparts. When insulated with mineral wool, they have good thermal insulation qualities.

However, the "Achilles' heel" of drywall is its fear of moisture, as a result of which you will not get reliable waterproofing. So it is possible to mount such structures only in rooms with a small and constant level of humidity.

Drywall slopes also require a certain skill level of the craftsman, as well as the production of priming and painting. In addition, the production time for such products does not differ much from plaster products.

Plastic slopes
This is the most versatile type of slopes. They are installed quickly, practical, wash well and do not fade in the sun. Plastic is quite durable and can last you about 15-20 years. It goes well with the plastic window itself, especially if you choose the right shade of the material.

As a heater in such structures, mineral wool is usually used, which can give the slope good hydro- and thermal insulation, which prevents windows from fogging and heat loss. The installation of plastic slopes is quite demanding on the performance class. Although, with a good study of technology, I think anyone can install them.
Well, I hope we have given enough arguments in favor of plastic slopes. And if you decide make do-it-yourself slopes, without the help of professionals, then this review is what you need! So, here is a step-by-step technology for installing plastic slopes.

How to make slopes on windows

Installation of plastic slopes. Tools and materials

To install plastic slopes you will need:

1. Six-meter plastic panel 0.8 cm thick.
2. U-shaped starting strip of plastic.
3. F-shaped strip of plastic (F-ka).
4. Wooden slats, 1-1.5cm thick
5. Building level.
6. Construction stapler and staples.
7. Hammer drill or impact drill.
8. Mineral wool as a heater.
9. High-quality metal scissors and a sharp knife.
10. Self-tapping screws 0.95 cm. In quantity from 10 pcs.
11. Self-tapping screws (bugs) 0.45 cm.
12. Silicone white.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic slopes

Until the end of the process of “dusty” work, do not peel off the protective films from plastic windows and window sills so as not to scratch them.

Stage one
We nail wooden slats along the entire perimeter of the slope, using self-tapping screws 0.95 cm long. Make sure that our rail is fixed flush to the wall structure and does not stick out. Using a hammer drill or impact drill, fasten the rail directly to the wall structure. A prerequisite for high-quality slopes is the exact vertical fastening of wooden slats.

Small wooden blocks are used to level them. To achieve the ideal vertical, use the building level. All this work done will give the flexible plastic the necessary rigidity, create a frame on which the plastic panel will be attached.

Stage two
We fix the prepared starting strip along the outer perimeter of the plastic window itself, using self-tapping screws (bugs). Before stuffing our strip, it is necessary to make a marking, for this, with a pencil and a level, outline the upper horizontal and the right and left vertical, and fill the starting strip along straight lines. On the starting strip there is a groove into which we will insert the plastic panel.

This completes the second stage. You can remove the protective film from the plastic window and start pasting the wallpaper. No more dusty work!

How to make slopes from plastic. The device slopes of plastic windows

Stage three
We fill the F-shaped strip. First, you need to cut it correctly. We make marks exactly according to the height of our plastic slope, and cut the excess part as follows:

The thing is that after stuffing the F-ki, an overlap is formed everywhere. Therefore, taking into account it, it is necessary to leave the "launch" when cutting it. Upon completion of all work, our overlap is removed with metal scissors.

Now back to the method of attaching this strip. It is mounted with a stapler to a wooden rail. Moreover, the fastening occurs only for one of the two parallel ribs, since it is this space that will be hidden by the inserted plastic panel.
The use of this technology is especially good in that it saves you from having to glue wallpaper around the window opening. The F-band will cover the defective area.

Stage four
Installed plastic slopes are insulated at the same time! We place the plastic panel in the starting strip at the far edge of the opening, place a layer of cotton wool behind it and fix the plastic in the F-ke. It should be noted that the plastic panel must be measured quite accurately. As you can see, in addition to insulating the window itself, we also create an environment that ideally preserves the building material of the wall. Because everything is pretty tight.

And finally, a little advice: not perfectly fitted plastic joints must be covered with white silicone.

That's all, the installation of plastic slopes is completed, you can enjoy the work done! We hope this article helped answer the question - how to make slopes with your own hands? Good luck with your repair!

Not all companies involved in the installation of plastic windows include the installation of slopes in the list of services provided. For the arrangement of slopes sometimes require unreasonably high fees. With the appropriate equipment, materials and basic knowledge, this task can be done with your own hands.

Slopes protect the seams from moisture and provide thermal insulation. There are several ways to install slopes: plastering, installation of drywall or PVC sheets.

Installation of plaster slopes (plaster slopes)

Do-it-yourself installation of plaster slopes will require a lot of time to complete. This method is usually chosen for the restoration of existing slopes during a major overhaul. To create slopes in the process of in-line redecoration, it is better to choose other materials. Indeed, when performing plaster and putty, the wallpaper coating around the window opening will inevitably deteriorate. If, during the dismantling of the old surface, the slope edge crumbled, then it is necessary to install a metal corner.

Installation of beacons

Professionals carry out plastering on beacons - wooden or metal fixtures. If you need to “build up” a small layer, then you can get by with marks from a mixture with the addition of gypsum. For beginners, it is better to purchase ready-made plaster beacons. The first beacon is placed at the very window or door block so that the plaster layer lies on the frame by at least 50 mm. During the installation of beacons, all distances are verified with a building level or a laser level. The second beacon is placed at the corners of the box. The distances between the first and second beacons should be the same along the entire perimeter of the window opening.

Slope plastering

Gypsum dry plaster can be used for plastering slopes indoors. Such a solution is quick-drying, it is better to knead it using a construction mixer. This type of plaster can be applied in a thicker layer than cement-sand, which is important if you have to cover up deep potholes in old slopes.

Sand is added to the cement mixture at the rate of ½, if you need to apply a layer of plaster more than 3 centimeters. So the layer will harden faster. Before adding sand to the solution, it is better to sift it. External slopes on windows are treated with a cement mixture or facade starting putty in combination with water-repellent additives. If the house has plastic windows, then before plastering, you will also need to carry out thermal insulation. Otherwise, in the cold season, the glasses will sweat a lot.

The plaster is applied in several layers, each of which requires drying. First, spraying is carried out, then soil is made in 1-2 layers. The last layer is done. The next layer of the mixture is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. After that, the surface is puttied, thus getting rid of smaller irregularities. It is impossible to apply putty in a thick layer. If you need to apply another layer of putty, then the previous one must be primed. The very last layer is the finishing, fine putty. As it dries, it becomes lighter. The next step is grinding, which is performed by a grinder.

Small gaps at the junction of the putty and the window or door block are covered with a sealant that can be painted. The junction is cut by 2-3 mm with a clerical knife at an angle of 450. The resulting recess is primed. Using a gun, the surface is covered with sealant so that the groove is completely filled. The bead of sealant should be as even as possible. To do this, apply masking tape. The sealant is leveled with a small rubber spatula, after which the masking tape is removed.

The slope surface must be primed with a wide brush in order to prevent cracking and prepare for subsequent painting. Can be painted with solvent-based enamel. But recently, acrylic paint has been increasingly used. Finishing slopes takes place in two layers. The second layer is applied after the first has completely dried. So the base will not show through the paint layer. It will take about a week to complete all the steps.

Drywall slopes

One of the advantages of drywall slopes over plastic ones is their practicality. In the case of minor damage or contamination of the top layer, drywall, unlike plastic, must be repaired. To return the slope to its original aesthetic properties, it is enough to putty it again, sand it and paint it. To perform drywall slopes, special skills are not required, but it will take a lot of time to make them. Installation takes place in several stages: creating a frame (with a frame method), laying drywall, puttying, priming, and painting. Such slopes are durable and practical. However, they have a significant disadvantage - they absorb moisture. Therefore, they are not suitable for rooms with high humidity and outdoor decoration.

Laying slopes of plasterboard on the frame

The package of high-quality metal-plastic windows always includes a profile for mounting plasterboard slopes. The availability of the profile must be checked directly with the manufacturer or supplier. In case of its absence, a galvanized profile can be used. For laying drywall on the slopes of doorways, a metal profile is also used. Before installing the window block, the profile is mounted in the groove provided for this purpose.

Typically, the installation of slopes is carried out the next day after the installation of windows. Then the surface is treated with mounting foam.

Now the window block should stand. After a day, plastic or wooden spacers are removed, and the excess foam is cut off.

A guide profile is screwed into the groove along the perimeter of the opening, and then along the line of joining the drywall with the window block, a guide profile is screwed with self-tapping screws. The frame is installed before the slope is insulated with mineral wool. Insulation is laid in the voids between the profiles. The slope angle is set to 950. Drywall is mounted to the frame.

Regardless of the method of installation of slopes, drywall is polished. The gaps between the sheets are puttied. Only after that proceed to the priming and painting. So that the corners do not delaminate, a galvanized metal corner is mounted around the perimeter.

As with plastering slopes, at the junction of the window frame and the slope (in this case drywall), a recess is made at an angle of 450, pasted over with masking tape and treated with acrylic-based putty. Acrylic will completely harden in 12 hours. After that, the slopes are painted.

Frameless slope mounting method

It is rational to use frameless technology when you need to lay drywall on old slopes. To do this, the surface is cleaned of previous finishing and building materials and a primer is produced.

When performing slopes along existing ones, a drywall sheet is attached to the guide profile with self-tapping screws and glued to the base with a Perfilix mixture. The glue prepared from this mixture sets very quickly. Therefore, drywall must be cut in advance.

For better fixation, drywall is pressed with a wooden bar, which is beaten with a rubber hammer. To maintain the upper horizontal slope in the desired position for the time of gluing, spacers from the window sill are used. The minimum time during which it is necessary to fix the surface is an hour. The slopes are left for 2-3 days until completely dry. At this time, the outer edge of the slope (the place where the drywall and wall join) is left open. This will make the glue dry much faster. After the glue has dried, the edges of the slopes are covered with acrylic. Next, the surface must be finished with a finishing putty.

Plastic slopes

The easiest way to complete the installation of a window block is plastic slopes. They are easy to install, do not require special care, durable and moisture resistant. Depending on the style of the room and the color scheme of the windows, you can choose the desired tone. For heat and sound insulation, you will need mineral wool or penoizol. Plastic slopes can be installed both from scratch and on an old wooden or plastered surface.

Types of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are suitable for exterior and interior decoration. They can be installed on the day of installation of the double-glazed window. There are several types of PVC slopes: foamed plastic, plastic-coated drywall and sandwich slopes.

Plastic sandwich panels

Recently, slopes from sandwich panels are often installed. Their cost is low, they are not at all afraid of moisture, they can be matte, glossy or with wood imitation. The structure of this material resembles a sponge, thanks to which the slopes retain heat better. After installing such slopes, the appearance of condensate on the glass is a rare phenomenon. The reason for the “fogging” of windows in this case lies in an improperly equipped ventilation system. In the production of sandwich slopes, panels with a thickness of 1 cm are used.

Along the perimeter of the outer edge of the window opening, we strengthen the wood rail with self-tapping screws, determining its location with a level. The rail will take on the load of the slope. Therefore, it must be securely fastened.

The starting profile is installed in the grooves. The slope itself is attached to the profile, after which insulation is made (the insulation is laid behind the plastic). The outer edge of the slopes is mounted to the wall using self-tapping screws, dowels or brackets. The first way is the easiest. Do not worry that the caps of the screws will be visible. Self-tapping screws are screwed as deep as possible into the panel and hidden with plugs.

Installation of slopes using brackets is carried out as follows: the first bracket is attached to the wall with a double-sided mounting tape, and the second bracket is attached to the slope. Brackets are attached to each other with self-tapping screws. The side slopes are fixed to the window sill with glue, then glued to the neighboring ones. Slots are treated with sealant.

PVC foam slopes

Integral PVC slopes have a fairly smooth top layer and can be easily cut with a grinder. In order to bend PVC at an angle, small cuts are made at the folds. If you need to make a slope in the shape of a semicircle, then there is no better material than foamed polyvinyl chloride. To form the necessary arc, frequent incisions are made. However, it should be remembered that the furrows should not exceed one third of the slope thickness. The cuts must be treated with glue.

We apply glue into the previously prepared grooves in the mounting foam and put the panel. As with the installation by the previously described methods, we attach a metal profile to the box and fix the plastic into it. We blow out the space between the PVC and the wall with a strip of foam, leaving a small space for it to swell. Next, proceed to fasten the profile to the outer corner. Docking points are treated with silicone, smoothing its surface with a rubber spatula or a damp cloth. Installation of PVC-coated drywall slopes is carried out in the same way as from plastic.

Do-it-yourself slope installation is a great way to learn new skills and save money at the same time. A properly executed finish will help hide some of the shortcomings of construction and repair work and minor mistakes made during the installation of PVC windows.