Connection diagram for a toilet bowl with a horizontal outlet. Connecting the toilet to the sewer with your own hands

Having understood the toilet installation technology, you can save on plumbing services and do the job as efficiently as possible. The toilet bowl can be mounted in the traditional way or in a more modern way - with installation. In the second case, the drain tank will be hidden in the wall, which will favorably affect the interior of the room.

You are provided with instructions on how to complete each of the listed installation options.

	H	h	h1	L	l	l1	B	b
With one-piece molded shelf, mm	370 and 400	320 and 350	150	Not less than 605	330	435	340 and 360	260
Without one-piece molded shelf, mm	370 and 400	320 and 350	150	460	330	435	340 and 360	260
Baby	335	285	130	405	280	380	290	210

Work set

1. Perforator.
2. Roulette.
3. Wrench.
4. Fan pipe.
5. Flexible hose.
6. FUM tape.
7. Fasteners.
8. Sealant.

In the case of installing a toilet bowl on the installation, the listed list will expand with the corresponding set. Everything you need is bought at any plumbing store.

Dismantling the old toilet

First step . Shut off the water supply and drain all the liquid.

Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.

Third step. We unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. If it doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.

Fourth step. Dismantling the toilet bowl.

Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet drain from the sewer.

In old buildings, plums are usually fixed with cement plaster. To destroy it, use a hammer and a chisel. We need to prick the cement and gently shake the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and loosen. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.

If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring

Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.

Important! Sewer gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and highly flammable. Be sure to keep this in mind as you work.

Getting ready to install

The base for the installation of the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:

• if the floor is tiled and does not have level differences, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
• if the floor is tiled and not even, install the toilet with chopsticks. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, chopsticks are hammered into them according to the level, and after that the toilet bowl is attached to the chopsticks with screws;
• if a tile replacement is planned, we dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed, if the old one has level differences;
• if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, we fill in the screed and lay the tiles.

We pay attention to pipes. Sewerage from debris and various deposits, we install a tap on the water supply (if it was absent before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.

How to install a conventional toilet

As a rule, when selling, the toilet bowl and the tank are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.

First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.

Marks on the floor for fasteners

Second step. We remove the toilet bowl and drill mounting holes in the marked places.

Third step. We drive the dowels into the mounting holes.

Fourth step. Installing the bowl. We insert fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten fasteners. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fasteners or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. From above we close the fasteners with plugs.

Fifth step. We mount the cover and seat. The manual for their assembly usually comes with the toilet, so we will not dwell on this event separately.

Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how the toilet outlet is connected.

Video - Installing a Compact toilet with wall outlet

Prices for accessories for toilets and urinals

Accessories for toilet bowls and urinals

If the release is done into the wall, we work like this:

If the release to the floor is being arranged, we do the following:

Useful advice! If the toilet bowl is connected to the drain pipe using a corrugation, sealing can be abandoned in most cases, because. the design of such an adapter hose is itself able to provide a sufficiently tight fit.

Seventh step. We carry out the installation of the tank. Drain mechanisms, as a rule, are sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, assemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (the assembly order for different models may vary slightly).

We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water hole in our toilet. Install the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.

Fasteners are most conveniently installed like this:

Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it digs somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. The level of filling the tank with water is adjustable by moving the float lower or higher.

We let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we take the toilet into permanent operation.

Modern installation. A special wall installation is used, in which the mechanism of the tank is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and the drain button remain visible.

We mount a wall-mounted toilet for installation

Video - How to install a wall-mounted toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation

The first stage is the installation of the frame

We carry out the installation of a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable with brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. Frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet.

The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.

The second stage - we hang the tank

We perform the installation in compliance with the following recommendations:

• we place the drain button at about a meter distance from the floor;
• between the attachment points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the eyes of our toilet bowl;
• the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
• we hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
• between the drain tank and the wall we maintain no more than 15 mm distance.

The third stage - we mount the finished installation

We first check the evenness of the wall with a plumb line. When deviations are found, do the following:

The fourth stage - install the tank

First we connect the tank. The drain may have top and side outlets. Almost all modern models of tanks allow you to choose between these two options.

Important! When installing the toilet on the installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank with a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. Would you like to destroy the frame skin in the near future for the sake of a five-minute replacement of such a hose? That's it!

For connection, it is best to use plastic pipes. All necessary fasteners usually come with the tank. Separately, you have to buy only a panel for the drain buttons, and even then not always.

We connect the release of our toilet bowl with the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with a corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily turn off the toilet from the drain and remove the bowl to the side.

Important! The procedure for connecting the cistern to the toilet and plumbing may vary depending on the model of the product. We clarify these points in a separate order and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Fifth stage - we sheathe the installation

To do this, we use moisture-resistant drywall with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fix it with a double layer. First we do the following:

• we screw the pins for hanging the toilet into the frame (they are included in the kit);
• close the drain holes with plugs (also from the kit) so that they are not clogged with dust and debris;
• we make holes in drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.

We fasten the sheathing sheets to the frame with the help of special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening step at the level of 30-40 cm. The design will be small in size and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between the fasteners.

Drywall is tiled or finished in another way at our discretion.

Useful advice! Before starting to tile the box with tiles, we install a plug and a cuff in the place of the future location of the drain button. They are usually included in the package.

Video - Installing a hanging toilet

Stage six - install the toilet

To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on the pins (we installed them in the previous stages of work). You can follow these steps in reverse order, whichever is more convenient for you. Tighten the fixing nuts.

Important! Previously, the tile that will be in contact with must be covered with a layer of silicone sealant (a gasket can be installed instead).

You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.

The assembly instructions for the installation remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.

First step. Lock your knee firmly. Metal fasteners will help you with this.

Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.

Third step. Install the toilet in the place intended for it. Circle the outline of the sanitary ware and mark the holes for the fasteners.

Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the marking.

Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into the vent pipe and secure the sanitary ware with the bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.

Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of mounting a wall-mounted toilet model.

Seventh step. We bring the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet bowl. If everything is fine, we accept the product for permanent operation.

Read our new article - and also find out what varieties there are, how to choose and install.

Video - Installing an attached toilet with a hidden cistern

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself toilet installation

Installation and connection of toilet bowls of almost all modifications is carried out according to one scheme. Usually, an instruction is attached to the product, after studying which you can install it yourself. For your convenience, we suggest watching a video tutorial on how to accurately install a toilet bowl.

Choosing a new toilet

Before going to the store for a new toilet, you need to decide on the size of the device and how to connect to. This will depend on the outlet of the device. It can be of three types.

1. Vertical.
2. Horizontal.
3. oblique.

Vertical sewer pipe

After that, you can choose a device from those models whose outlet drain design is suitable for connecting to your sewer system. No adapter will help connect a toilet with a vertical drain to a horizontal sewer pipe. So this choice parameter is the most important, everything else is a matter of taste and wishes.

The shape of the toilet bowl can be:

• plate-shaped;
• funnel-shaped;
• visor.

Types of toilet bowls in the shape of a bowl

The visor design prevents the formation of splashes of water when flushing. Water flushing can occur in a circular manner or in a continuous stream.

The toilets themselves can be of different designs. It can be a monoblock, a corner toilet, a compact toilet or a separate one, when the bowl and the toilet are located separately.

Toilet bowls by mounting method

According to the method of fastening, toilet bowls differ in attached and standing separately. The attached toilet looks like a hanging toilet. Available for sale with or without tank. Attached in different ways. Most often, this is an option with two or four mounting ears for an anchor or screw, but there are models that are attached to special corners fixed to the floor.

Connecting elements

Connecting the toilet to the sewer pipe will require connecting elements. You just need to choose the right one.

All elements are connected hermetically due to rubber seals. The exception is connecting the cuff to an old cast-iron sewer pipe. In this case, the joints are coated with a sanitary sealant.

Dismantling the old device

Before starting work, prepare a bucket and rags. First of all, turn off the water supply valve to the drain tank. Drain the water and unscrew the water pipe from the tank. Now we disconnect the tank from the bowl, most likely the fastening bolts are rusted and oxidized or stuck with deposits. Use a hex wrench, if you can't unscrew it, then try to tighten the bolt slightly. With translational movements back and forth, the nut should turn. Do not be too zealous so as not to split the tank. If this does not help, then spray the nut with WD-40, kerosene or turpentine. After a day, try to unscrew it again by rocking it.

Disconnecting the cistern of an old toilet

Now you can move on to unscrewing the toilet. Fasteners can be an anchor bolt with a nut or a dowel. If the toilet was installed many years ago, then it is most likely that it was installed on cement mortar. In this case, it is unlikely that it will be possible to keep it intact, especially if the drain is fixed with oil paint with rags or cement coating. The easiest way to start is with the drain neck. Hit the neck with a short hard blow, it will split and detach from the sewer pipe. You can not hit the sewer, cast iron is a very brittle metal, it can crack or split, adding additional problems.

Toilet demolition work

Use a chisel and hammer to beat off the cement mortar at the base of the toilet. Try to swing the device, then tilt the toilet back, drain the water from it into the sewer. Make sure that the fragments do not fall into the sewer pipe. Now, using a screwdriver, carefully clean the neck of the sewer pipe from a solution of other dirt and insert the adapter eccentric collar, previously well lubricated with sanitary sealant. We plug the hole with a rag so that the dangerous and unpleasant smell of sewer gases does not spoil your mood and health.

Installation: anchors or dowels

Mounting on dowels involves installing the product on the bathroom floor without laying any taffeta-type lining under its base. Modern toilet bowls are produced with mounting holes in the base, so this installation method is the most practical and most commonly used. After leveling the floor or laying tiles, you must perform the following steps:

• using plumbing grease, we put on an eccentric cuff to release the toilet bowl, push the toilet bowl to the intended place, while inserting the cuff into the adapter. Turn the cuff to set the toilet straight. With a marker or pencil inserted into the mounting hole, mark the attachment points and the contour of the bowl;

Stages of installing a toilet bowl on dowels

• disconnect the toilet from the adapter and move it away. We drill holes for the dowel with a drill. Please note, if the holes in the fixing ears of the toilet bowl are oblique, then we drill a hole for the dowel also at an angle. We hammer dowels;
• install the toilet according to the marks, connect it to the sewer. We put a plastic sleeve (or rubber washer) on the screws and bait a little on the dowels;
• we set the bowl according to the level, if the base is not even, then place pieces of rubber or sheet plastic, and then tighten the screws to the end. Do not be too zealous so as not to split the ceramics. We put a plastic plug on top of the bolt. Cover the gap with silicone sealant, remove excess silicone with wet fingers.

Advice. It is better to try on a toilet with a cistern installed on it, and installation without a cistern.

Installation on taffeta

Installing a toilet on taffeta was previously considered the accepted method of installation. We will not recommend it, since the toilet bowl installed in this way loosens over time. The reason for this is the moisture that gets on the wooden surface. The board is laid in the floor on a level with the surface and fixed with anchors. The remaining space is filled with cement mortar and after the mixture has completely hardened, installation begins. The installation process is the same as the installation with dowels, only the toilet mounting ears are screwed to the board with self-tapping screws, having previously placed rubber washers under the heads.

Installing a toilet bowl on taffeta

Epoxy installation

If there are no mounting ears at the base of the toilet model, then such a device is attached to the adhesive joint. This option is suitable for devices in which the cistern is mounted on the wall without resting on the toilet bowl or a faucet is used instead of the cistern. After trying on and applying a contour mark, the surfaces to be glued are lightly treated with sandpaper or corundum stone to roughen them, and then degreased with a solvent. Then, epoxy adhesive is applied to the dry surface of the floor with a layer of 4-5 mm and the toilet is pressed with force. After the adhesive has completely cured, you can use the device.

Epoxy installation

Advice. Use gloves to protect your hands when handling epoxy.

Suspension installation system

To install a wall-hung toilet, you will need a special frame with a flush tank, which is equipped with a drain mechanism and sheathed with insulating material to absorb noise and prevent condensation. Usually this design is bought separately from the toilet. The frame is attached to the wall with anchors, and a toilet bowl is hung on it. Communications are hidden inside the frame, which is subsequently sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall and lined. The drain button is mounted in the wall on the front panel of the tank.

Suspension installation system

Connecting the cistern to the toilet bowl and plumbing

After the toilet is installed, it is necessary to hoist a drain tank on it. We collect the internal filling according to the instructions. We put a gasket on the bowl (it can have a different shape) and fix the tank to the bowl so that it does not move relative to its place. You can glue it to the bowl with silicone. The screws are tightened evenly. We connect a flexible hose from the tank to the water supply. We wrap FUM tape on threaded connections for sealing. It will not be superfluous to install a shut-off valve on the water pipe.

Connecting the toilet bowl

If it is necessary to repair the product, the tap will allow you to locally shut off the water supply. It remains to test the tightness and quality of the system. Shifting the float up or down allows you to adjust the level of filling with water in the drain tank. We fill the tank with water several times and drain it. The absence of leaks and trouble-free operation of the device indicates that the installation was successful. The finishing touch will be the installation of a toilet seat, which after all the work done will be a mere trifle for you.

Toilet Installation Lesson: Video

How to install a toilet: photo

The presence of a water supply and sewerage system in modern apartments and houses is a guarantee of comfort. But for the efficient and uninterrupted operation of all systems, it is necessary to properly install them and connect sanitary appliances. In our article we will talk about how to connect the toilet to the sewer system with your own hands. You will learn about the cases in which the toilet is installed using corrugations, when fittings or eccentric connections are needed. The video at the end of the article will allow you to better understand the intricacies of the connection process.

The scheme for connecting a sanitary appliance to the sewer system depends on the configuration of the appliance itself, more precisely on what outlet it is made with. So, today the following options for the location of drain pipes in the toilet are used:

• Instruments with horizontal outlet. These types of toilets are connected directly to the sewer pipe running in the wall of the bathroom.
• Plumbing units with oblique outlet. In this case, the pipe outlet forms an angle of 45 degrees. Such options are considered universal, since they allow you to connect the toilet to the sewer both in the floor and in the wall.
• Products with vertical outlet pipes. The connection scheme in this case is implemented with the discharge of water into the sewer pipe passing under the floor at the installation site of the toilet bowl.

Each scheme has its pros and cons. They must be taken into account when choosing a thicket configuration. In addition, the location of the sewer pipe in the room has a significant impact on the choice of one or another connection option.

Connection with vertical outlet

Connecting a toilet with a floor-perpendicular outlet was common in Europe in the 70s. The advantages of this connection option include the fact that the device can be installed close to the wall. In addition, the appearance of the room and the unit is not disfigured by a protruding pipe.

The main disadvantage of the sewer system passing under the floor, to which the toilet with a vertical outlet fits, is that when replacing or leaking pipes, you will have to break the tiled floor, and to clean the sewer, you need to dismantle the toilet.

Do-it-yourself installation of such a device is carried out in the following sequence:

1. First, you need to mark the installation site on the floor.
2. Then a standard screw-type flange with a fixing element is mounted.
3. There is a hole in the central part of the flange. This is the place to install the sewer pipe.
4. A toilet bowl is installed on the flange and rotated until it is finally fixed at the installation site. At the same time, the outlet pipe with a special sealing ring is automatically pressed tightly against the end part of the sewer pipe.

Mounting the appliance with horizontal outlet

Sanitary fixtures with horizontal outlet are widespread throughout the former Soviet Union. This wiring diagram is due to the fact that the riser was in the wall of a panel or brick house.

The main advantage of devices with a horizontal outlet is that connecting the toilet to the sewer is simple and quick. Moreover, this option is suitable for plastic and cast iron sewer pipes. Such installation is easy to do with your own hands. The only disadvantage of a horizontal outlet system is that the appliance can only be connected to a vertical riser.

In order to properly connect a sanitary appliance with a horizontal outlet with your own hands, you must use a sealing cuff. To fix the unit in the floor, there are special holes in the legs through which the fixing elements can be passed.

Connection to a cast-iron or plastic sewer system begins with the installation of the unit itself. To do this, use screws and dowels.

Important: during installation, you need to be very careful not to tighten the screw all the way so as not to cause cracking of the surface of the toilet bowl.

Mounting the unit with oblique outlet

Sanitary fixtures with oblique outlet can be considered a compromise between the schemes described above. Toilets with an oblique exit today are most often used in our homes.

Next, consider how to connect a toilet with an oblique drain to the sewer system. This process is described in detail in the video at the end of the article. To do this, follow the following sequence of actions:

1. In order to properly connect the device to the sewer, the outlet pipe with the grooves on it is lubricated with a mixture of minium and drying oil.
2. On top of the coating, a branch pipe with an oblique outlet is wrapped with a tarred cloth or tow. At the same time, the end of the strand must hang freely, otherwise it will fall into the pipeline, and will cause frequent clogging of the system. This strand also needs to be treated with red lead.
3. After that, the unit with an oblique outlet can be mounted on the floor by inserting the outlet pipe into the sewer socket.

Some subtleties of installation

Before you connect the toilet to the sewer, you should familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the process, which will come in handy in any case. Usually, corrugated pipes and eccentric cuffs, fittings and plastic bends are used to properly connect the device to sewer pipes.

If you are going to use installation using a fan pipe, which gives the entire structure a coherent and respectable look, then you should know a few nuances:

• the fan pipe cannot be cut;
• it is forbidden to change the geometric configuration of the pipe.

To connect the toilet to a cast iron and plastic sewer system, it is very convenient to use a corrugated cuff. The corrugation can be extended by stretching it in length, or bent at the desired angle.

As for the eccentric cuffs, they are needed if you need to get a deviation from one axis for joined plastic pipes. By turning the cuff in one direction or another, you can compensate for the deviation.

Important: The advantage of mounting with a corrugation is that you can install the device in a hard-to-reach place or connect it to a sewer that has different inlet sockets.

Connecting with a corrugation

If you don’t know how to connect a toilet to a corrugated sewer, then our recommendations will help you do the work yourself:

1. To begin with, the narrower end of the corrugated cuff is inserted into the sewer outlet. The joint is sealed with silicone.
2. The second end of the corrugated product (wider) is put on the outlet from the toilet. Thus, the device is connected to the sewer pipeline. The junction should not yet be sealed with silicone. We will do this later, after fixing the device to the floor.
3. Now check the tightness of the connection by draining water into the toilet.
4. Choose a suitable place to fix the toilet to the floor. Mark the points where the holes will be drilled.
5. Then the device is moved aside, removing the corrugation. Holes are drilled in the floor.
6. Dowels are inserted into the holes.
7. The unit is installed in place and a corrugation is attached to it. Now the junction of the corrugation with the toilet can be lubricated with silicone.
8. Fix the mounting bolts and check the tightness of all joints by draining the water into the device.

Important: if, after installing the toilet bowl, it sways at the time when a person sits on it, then you need to make a cement pad under the structure and install the device on it.

1. After completing the installation and fixing the unit, it is necessary to cover the gaps between the device and the tiles on the floor with silicone or sealant.

The main disadvantage of using corrugation is that it can sag or be accidentally damaged. Therefore, when using thin-walled corrugations, it is worth avoiding its sagging like a siphon.

Connection without corrugation

If your corrugation often leaks, then replacing with a new corrugated pipe may not always help. In this case, it is better to use installation without the use of corrugations. In this case, the connection is made according to the following rules:

• When connecting a device without a corrugated cuff, use an adapter pipe or a vent pipe. Depending on the angle of inclination of the outlet from the toilet, one of the three connection options that we discussed above can be used.
• If the outlet from the device does not fit the socket from the sewer, you must select a different model of the unit or connect using curved adapter pipes.

Use of fittings for connection

Replacing the corrugation with a fan pipe (shaped products) requires great skill during installation. To complete the work you will need the following materials:

• a fan pipe or branch pipe with an angle of inclination suitable for your toilet model;
• silicone sealant or resin strand.

1. The outlet from the device is lubricated with a composition based on minium and drying oil.
2. Then the resin strand is wound. Its end should hang freely, without falling into the sewer pipe.
3. Then the strand is also coated with red lead.
4. A shaped tube is put on.
5. To hermetically connect the pipe to the sewer outlet, a rubber cuff is used.
6. The assembled system is checked for leaks.
7. After that, you can fix the device to the floor.

Connecting a wall hung toilet

In order for the hinged product to withstand its own weight and the weight of the person sitting on it, mounting to the wall is carried out using a special strong mounting frame. In this case, the water is drained through a horizontal pipe going into the wall.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. After installing the frame, which has a special hole for the sewer outlet, the device is hung on steel studs. They help to securely fix and hold the bowl.
2. With the help of a cuff, the outlet of the toilet bowl and a piece of pipe coming from the riser are connected. The joint is sealed with silicone.

Video guide for connecting the toilet to the sewer pipeline:

How to connect a toilet to a sewer

Updating the interior in the restroom also implies a change in obsolete plumbing. And, it would seem, only professionals should deal with connecting the toilet to the sewer, but in reality, absolutely everyone will be able to independently perform this small operation, having previously read the step-by-step instructions.

First what you need to find out before connecting is the outlet version. The most modern models are produced with an outlet parallel to the floor. However, there are toilets with an inclined and vertical nozzle. Each of them has its own nuances. . Second an important point - you should take into account the distance between the toilet outlet and the inlet of the sewer riser. It depends on the method of fastening. Consider all possible options.

We connect the toilet to the sewer with a corrugation

The broad concept of "corrugation" includes such plastic products as pipes and cuffs.

The advantages of corrugation are as follows:

• the ability to bend and stretch;
• the possibility of installation in rooms even of a very small area;
• the easiest installation
• the ability to connect a toilet bowl even if the types of outlet of the toilet bowl and the socket of the sewer system do not match;
• suitable for temporary connection of plumbing, for example, for the period of repair;
• acceptable price.

Disadvantages of soft (non-reinforced) corrugated products:

• a small margin of safety for plastic corrugations (it is easy to damage the walls);
• installation of the corrugation is possible only open, its installation in the walls is out of the question;
• during prolonged use, the corrugation can sag and cause frequent blockages.

Attention! To connect the toilet, you should choose a corrugation with a reinforced inner layer, which significantly increases the strength and durability of the product.

Toilet corrugation prices

corrugation for the toilet

Corrugated toilet bowl connection technology

Corrugated pipes (soft and hard) are suitable for the installation of toilet bowls with oblique and horizontal outlet. Before buying a corrugation, be sure to check the distance between the toilet and the riser. Manufacturers produce corrugated pipes of various lengths and it is necessary to select the product individually. It is recommended to choose a corrugation 1/3 longer than the distance from the toilet to the sewer pipe.

We select materials

Any installation should be prepared in advance so that during the work process you do not waste time looking for lost tools. So, need: the toilet itself and the suitable corrugation of your choice, fum tape and silicone sealant, impact drill or puncher, tape measure, adjustable wrench, flexible hoses to connect the water supply, rubber cuff seals, pencil or marker, screwdriver.

Important! Do not forget to turn off the main water supply valve before starting work, and also be sure to remove all traces of dirt / cement / debris from the sewer socket so that there are no connection defects.

1 step - fitting

Trying or fitting is necessary in order to be able to verify the correctness and compatibility of the selected plumbing products. So, it is unacceptable to lay a corrugation with strong bends, which can cause a delay in drains. It is also impossible to install the corrugation in those places where it will constantly rub against the hard corners and walls of the room.

We take a rubber seal (in case the corrugation already has a seal, this stage of work is unnecessary), lubricate with sealant and insert it into the sewer socket. In this seal we connect a corrugation lubricated on the inside with a sealant.

Note! It is impossible to rotate and shift the parts relative to each other until the sealant is completely dry!

Now we take the toilet and put it in the place where it will be in the future. We immediately make markings on the floor for fastening. We connect the corrugation to the toilet, check the reliability of the connection. To do this, pour 1-2 buckets of water into the toilet bowl. If there are no drops of water at the joints, you can disconnect the corrugation from the toilet and continue working.

Step 2 - toilet installation

According to the markings, it is necessary to gouge holes for fasteners (dowels) with a puncher or impact drill. We insert fasteners into the holes on which we install the toilet. Tighten all fixing screws.

Step 3 - connect the toilet to the sewer and water supply

When the toilet is firmly installed, it remains only to lubricate the inside of the corrugation with sealant and put it on the toilet outlet. Do not forget to connect a flexible hose to the toilet bowl, through which cold water will fill the container.

4 step - testing

To make sure that the installation is correct and the structure is stable, it is recommended to sit on the toilet, and then make several drains. If the plumbing does not shake, and no smudges are found at the joints, the gap between the faience and the flooring should be lubricated with sealant. This completes the connection.

What to do if the toilet is installed unstable? In this case, you should carefully dismantle and level the floor covering (with a screed or sealant), and then repeat the entire connection process.

Video - How to connect the toilet to the sewer (part 1)

Video - How to connect the toilet to the sewer (part 2)

How to connect the toilet to the sewer pipes

It is the connection with the help of nozzles that is recommended by experienced plumbers. Despite some inconvenience that may arise when connecting the toilet in difficult cases (when transferring the toilet to a new location, etc.), using pipes, the connection will be the most durable, tight and durable. In the distant past, the toilet was installed on a wide board - a pedestal, but now much more often the installation is carried out directly on the tile. In this case, if the toilet will stand at a distance from the sewer riser, it is necessary to ensure the slope of the pipe of the order of 2 degrees for the unhindered passage of drains.

Since the toilet outlet can have different exit options, the nozzles must be selected in strict accordance with the dimensions and angle of inclination. Consider connection methods depending on the type of toilet outlet.

How to connect a toilet with a vertical outlet (to the floor)

Toilet, outlet - vertical

Toilets with a floor outlet are designed for installation in houses where the sewer wiring runs under the floor. Such a system is especially relevant in private homes, since toilets with a vertical outlet can be placed not only close to the wall, but also in any convenient place.

1. The first stage is the purchase of a toilet bowl and the preparation of sewer wiring. Before installation, the toilet must be “tried on” to the installation site. It may turn out that the drain hole in the floor simply does not match the dimensions of the toilet and you will have to disassemble the flooring to move the sewer socket.
2. The second step is to prepare for the installation of the toilet. To do this, marking is made for fixing the toilet bowl, and then processing the edge of the sewer pipe (the edge must be strictly flush with the floor covering and in no case protrude above the floor level), into which the sealing cuff is inserted.
3. The toilet bowl is temporarily removed to the side, and holes are drilled under the fasteners according to the marking. Dowels are inserted into the holes.
4. The toilet is put in place, the tightness of the occurrence of the flange (cuff) in the outlet pipe of the toilet is checked. Next, the fixing screws are tightened (a gasket washer must be used so as not to damage porcelain or faience) and the tank is connected to the water supply.

There is another type of toilet mount with floor outlet. In this case, the cuff is supplemented with a special washer, into the grooves of which screws are inserted. A cuff-seal is inserted into the center of this washer and then the toilet bowl is installed according to the technology described above.

Video - How to connect the toilet with floor release to the sewer

How to connect a toilet with a horizontal (into the wall) outlet to the sewer

Typically, this method of connection is not compact, and all communications are hidden behind a decorative false wall. At the same time, in modern construction, a sewer distribution system is most often equipped, suitable specifically for connecting toilet bowls with outlet to the wall.

The outlet of the toilet bowl should be as close as possible to the sewer hole. In this case, the connection is made by sealing cuffs and a connecting pipe. If the outlet of the toilet bowl is somewhat offset relative to the sewer hole, the connection is made using an eccentric seal or several adapters.

Before installing the toilet, it is necessary to prepare and level the flooring and, of course, dismantle the old toilet.

First of all, let's deal with the sewer pipe and markings. We insert a rubber seal lubricated with sealant into the hole in the sewer pipe. And already inside the seal we insert an eccentric, or a connecting pipe. We install the toilet, combining the outlet with the pipe / eccentric. The part may not fit and an additional tap will be required. Then we make markings on the floor for fasteners and remove the toilet bowl to the side.

According to the marking, we drill holes, hammer in the dowels. Now we put the toilet in place, combining it with the eccentric and dowels. We fasten the toilet to the floor. We check for leaks, assemble and connect the tank. This completes the sewer connection.

Video - Connecting the toilet (horizontal outlet) to the sewer

How to connect a toilet with an oblique outlet to the sewer

Toilets with this type of outlet are most conveniently connected with a corrugation, but if the distance between the outlet drain hole of the toilet bowl and the sewer pipe is minimal, a simple eccentric with seals will do.

In order for the corrugation or eccentric to "sat" as tightly as possible on the outlet pipe of the toilet bowl, the junction is smeared with silicone. Previously, instead of silicone, the outlet pipe was smeared with a mixture of red lead and drying oil (leaving a strip 1 cm from the edge of the pipe unlubricated), then wrapped with a tarred strip and covered with another layer of a mixture of drying oil and red lead.

In general, the technological process for connecting a toilet bowl with oblique and direct outlet is very similar. In all cases, the installation must be carried out on the most even floor covering, not forgetting that the metal parts of the fasteners should not come into contact with ceramics (there are plastic and rubber gaskets for this). And for the tightness of the connection, it is desirable to coat all the connections of the elements of the sewer system with a sealant.

Toilet, outlet - vertical

From the author: hello dear readers! If you are faced with the question of how to connect the toilet to the sewer, then you have come to the main installation stage. Why main? Yes, because it depends on this moment how trouble-free the operation of your sanitary ware will be.

For some reason, many home craftsmen I know do not like to mess with plumbing. Moreover, they calmly perform other complex work, from the installation of stretch ceilings to the transfer of walls in the apartment. But to replace the mixer invite masters from outside.

They explain this by the fact that it is difficult to mess with plumbing, and the consequences of improper work can be very deplorable: this is damage to one's own home, and flooding of neighbors.

In fact, despite all the responsibility in our particular case, it is quite possible to cope with the connection of sanitary ware to the sewer on your own, this does not require any unique knowledge or complex drawings. It is enough to follow the generally accepted system and treat the work carefully, with all accuracy. So get comfortable, we'll figure it out.

Possible connection types

In connecting the toilet to the sewer, two points are of great importance: the outlet angle (that is, the location of the sewer hole) and the type of pipe itself with which the connection is made.

Sewer outlet can be horizontal, vertical and oblique. The first option is when the pipe goes from the toilet to the sewer parallel to the floor, that is, it is located horizontally. With an oblique outlet, the outlet in the faience product is located slightly higher than the sewer in the wall. Therefore, the pipe runs at an angle relative to the floor.

With a vertical version, the sewer pipe goes from the toilet to the floor. For some reason, this connection model was not popular in our country before. But now the example of Europe and the United States of America has led to the fact that vertical outlet is used more and more often, in new buildings it is now usually found.

The advantage of the latter option is the lack of equipment binding to the wall. That is, you can install it anywhere, even in the center of the room. In this case, the pipes will be hidden under the floor finishing material.

Types of pipes

The connecting pipes through which the contents of the toilet go into the sewer are of different types:

• corrugated. This is a soft bending pipe, similar to an accordion. It is convenient in that it can be adjusted to the discrepancy between the height of the toilet outlet and the sewer hole, simply by bending it. The downside is the long length. Even the short corrugated pipe itself can exceed the required distance. Also, a disadvantage can be called the low strength of the product - it is less than other options;
• eccentric. This device is shorter and stronger than corrugation. Suitable for cases where the height of the outlet and the sewer outlet do not match. It consists of two cylinders connected by a pipe and shifted along the vertical axis relative to each other. In this case, just the insufficient length, which usually ranges from 10 to 12 centimeters, can become a minus. In addition, it is necessary to carefully approach the measurements of the height difference between the holes in the bathroom so that the eccentric fits exactly;
• plastic. It is made of the appropriate material, which gives it a fairly decent strength characteristics. In addition, it is smooth from the inside, which greatly reduces the likelihood of blockages. Another plus is the possibility of trimming, that is, such a pipe can be adjusted to the required length. But there are some downsides here as well. The rigidity of the plastic pipe requires special precision and care in installation. If even the slightest distortion forms at the joints, then leaks will be inevitable. Also not too happy with the look. If you take an inexpensive version of the pipe, then it will be gray, which rarely harmonizes with the color of the toilet bowl and other sanitary ware. You can find a white version, but its cost is much higher;
• fun. It is used in the event that the sewer riser has too little throughput. The fan pipe is made of faience or porcelain. On the one hand, this gives the whole structure a solid appearance and aesthetics. On the other hand, although the material is hard, it is also brittle. Therefore, there is a risk of damage to it both during operation and during installation. However, the installation of such a pipe is not at all the easiest thing, so it is better to entrust it to experienced professionals.

The most popular pipe option for connecting to the sewer is the corrugation. It has a low price, can bend as you like, and also stretch if necessary. True, one should take into account both the aforementioned low strength, coupled with a large length, and not the easiest process for cleaning the outer surface of such a pipe. Dust and dirt are constantly clogged into small folds, so the cleaning process becomes quite lengthy and difficult.

In addition, if the slope of such a pipe is rather weak, then periodically it will have to be cleaned. And also with prolonged use, sagging may occur, especially in the case of a long corrugation length. However, even the presence of so many minuses does not prevent it from being the best connection option.

Preparing for installation

When you have decided on the choice of connection method, it's time to move on to direct preparation. First, you need to purchase all the necessary tools and materials. Of course, first of all, it is the toilet itself and the pipe.

In addition to these, you will need the following:

• rubber cuffs that will serve as seals;
• special adapters, if necessary;
• silicone sealant;
• if you decide to use a plastic pipe, then a tool for cutting it (a hacksaw is quite suitable);
• measuring and marking tools: pencil and tape measure;
• if you need to dismantle an old cast-iron sewer pipe, then also stock up on a hammer, a flat screwdriver and a pry bar, a metal brush and a piece of rag.

Let's talk about the last point in more detail. If we are not talking about a new building, then, most likely, the old toilet was built into the exit directly into the cast iron knee. Moreover, this entire structure was usually generously cemented to obtain high strength and reliability of the connection.

Source: canalizaciyam.ru

The easiest way in this case is to first simply break the ceramic element with a hammer. Be sure to wear protective goggles, as the fragments will scatter violently and suddenly. You need to protect your eyes from them.

After you have beaten off the toilet bowl from the knee, the latter must be tapped from all sides with a hammer. Keep in mind that you don't have to put in too much effort. Old cast iron can surprise you with its sudden brittleness. If you split the pipe with an excessively powerful blow, you will have to get all the way to the sewer riser and replace the broken element with a new one. That is, the work will become more complicated and delayed. So tap lightly.

Thanks to this procedure, it will be possible to remove cement residues and accumulated deposits from the inner walls of the cast iron. Small pieces can be removed with a screwdriver, and large ones can be removed with a pry bar.

When all global deposits have been removed, put on protective gloves and apply toilet cleaner to the inside of the pipe. Suitable, for example, toilet "Duckling". After application, wait 10-15 minutes, and then thoroughly clean the treated surface with a wire brush.

The final step will be wiping with a piece of rag. During the cleaning procedure, pay special attention to the five-centimeter section of the pipe, which is located at the very exit. As a result of your manipulations, it should become smooth. This is necessary so that the joint with the new toilet pipe is airtight.

Installation and connection of the toilet

Now let's look at how to properly install and connect a new faience product. To begin with, we will analyze the process in detail using the example of using a corrugated pipe, as the optimal and most popular option. And then we'll talk about other methods, which, however, are not too different.

Corrugated connection

Corrugation can be used in cases where the toilet has either an oblique outlet or a horizontal one. Before buying a pipe, measure the distance between the toilet outlet and the sewer in the wall. Take the corrugation a third longer than this indicator. Next, we perform the following steps.

1. We smear the joint of the sewer hole with silicone sealant (at the same time we apply a thicker layer), then we insert a rubber cuff there.
2. We install the rubber end of the corrugated pipe into the drain through the seal. We push it inward until all the rings go completely. Until the installation of all other elements of the toilet structure is completed, we do not touch this end of the pipe, the silicone must dry completely in order to obtain a normal seal.
3. We install the toilet in its rightful place. It must be absolutely stable. To check this fact, just sit on top and gently try to swing. If it is not possible to achieve evenness of the installation, then, most likely, it is required to level the floor.
4. When you nevertheless achieved stability and reliability from the toilet bowl, connect the other end of our corrugation to the corresponding hole.
5. Now test - fill the toilet with water in the amount of three buckets. After a minute, carefully inspect the places where the corrugated pipe is connected to the sewer hole and the toilet outlet. If you see leaks, you will have to remove the pipe and reinstall it, after checking the correct installation and the integrity of the rubber cuffs. In the absence of global leaks, but if there are a few drops of water at the junction of the corrugation and the toilet, you should not worry, this drawback is subsequently easily removed using silicone sealant. If there are no problems with the reliability of the joints - excellent, proceed to the next step.
6. We mark on the floor those places where the toilet will be fixed (there are special holes on the product for this).
7. We remove the corrugation from the outlet and remove it to the side for now. Make sure that at the same time it does not warp in the place where it connects to the sewer. The toilet bowl is also moving away for the time being.
8. In those places that we marked on the floor, we drill holes and install dowels in them.
9. We put the toilet on its side and lubricate its lower part around the perimeter with silicone sealant.
10. Then we turn it over to its normal position, put it in the right place and fix it with screws.
11. We check the stability again in the above way. If everything is in order, tighten the screws to the end and put decorative caps on them.
12. The gap formed between the floor and the toilet is sealed with a cement-based waterproof sealant. Some do it with the same silicone, but it will peel off pretty quickly, because it does not tolerate wet cleaning, which is regularly done too well.
13. Now we take the previously postponed end of the corrugated pipe, we process the rubber tip from the inside with silicone sealant and pull it onto the toilet pipe. If the corrugation requires stretching in length, then you should do it evenly, then you can avoid sagging.
14. We are waiting for two hours, during which time the silicone should harden.
15. We install the tank and connect the water supply hose to it.
16. Now we check the quality of the installation. To do this, we drain about three times, each time waiting for the tank to be filled. We examine all joints (both at the corrugation and at the water supply hose) for leaks.

If everything is in order, and no leaks are observed, then the installation of the toilet bowl using a corrugated pipe was successful.

Installation with plastic elbow

The procedure is almost the same as in the case of corrugation. Only those nuances that we mentioned above should be taken into account:

• the plastic knee does not bend;
• it must be installed perfectly, in order to avoid distortions. Therefore, the location of the toilet will depend on the placement of the knee, and not vice versa;
• if the plastic pipe is too long, then just cut it with any suitable tool;
• during installation, all joints are pre-lubricated with a silicone-based sealant.

The rest of the procedure is no different from the above.

Direct connection

The most reliable method of connecting the toilet to the sewer is the one in which pipes are not used at all. In such cases, the toilet pipe is inserted directly into the sewer hole. Of course, for this, the elements must be ideally suited to each other.

The installation procedure depends on the release form. Let's take a closer look at each option.

Vertical release

For such an installation, you will need a special part - a flange. The procedure is as follows.

1. We try on the flange to the floor, mark with a marker those places where the clamps will be located.
2. We remove the flange, drill holes in the marked places, install dowels.
3. We put the flange in place, fix it with fasteners. At the same time, we make sure that the axis of the fixing bolts is perpendicular to the bottom of the toilet bowl.
4. Lubricate the sealing cuff with silicone.
5. We install the toilet bowl on the flange, fasten it with nuts.

Horizontal and oblique outlet

Such installation is carried out according to the same principle as with the use of corrugations. The only difference is that a rigid structure comes from the sewer drain hole. Moreover, during the installation of a branch pipe into it, its elements should not loosen or move. Therefore, it is better to call for help another person who will hold the structure during installation.

Other stages of the procedure are no different from those described above. We mark the fixation points on the floor, install and fix the toilet, insert the pipe into the drain, previously lubricated with silicone, wait two hours and check the system for leaks.

That's all, dear friends. Despite all the responsibility of the event, the work itself is not so complicated. To get even more complete information on all the nuances of installing a toilet, you can read other articles on our portal, each of which describes a specific step in detail.

And also don't forget to watch the video, the link to which we have attached to today's material. This will help you remember exactly the order of work. The rest is up to you: a little effort and accuracy, and your bathroom will gladly accept a new faience tenant. Good luck!