Folding overhead gate drawings step by step instructions. How to make a do-it-yourself up-and-over garage door? Manufacturing steps, drawings and dimensions

Landscaping and planning 26.06.2020

Landscaping and planning

In the article, we will consider how to make garage lifting gates with our own hands, the main advantage of such gates is that when the garage opens, the sash moves to the ceiling in the garage, and this is much more convenient than in the case of swing gates.

So, you have decided to equip a lifting gate in your garage, and do it on your own. The simplest design of lifting gates is the one that was installed on the shell-type pencil case-garages. However, these gates have a technological gap from the door leaf to the opening. Naturally, this is unacceptable, since in our conditions the garage must be insulated, and the presence of even a small gap is completely inappropriate.

It is required that the fit of the closed gate to the opening be as tight as possible, in addition, a wicket should be provided in the gate in order not to force cold air into the garage building during the full opening of the gate in winter.

Download garage door drawing

For the manufacture of a garage door frame, you can use an aluminum profile, and for arranging a frame for a gate, you can use wooden bars. From the outside, a profiled sheet or any other light finishing material is attached to the gate frame with self-tapping screws.

After performing these steps, we get a gate in which the gate opens to the side of the street. The gate must open in such a way that when the gate is raised, it does not open by itself (this is fraught with injuries).

The size of the gate is larger than the length of the opening (by about 10 cm). This is done in order to ensure that there is no gap between the gate and the wall of the building (5 cm each from the inside).

The lower part of the canvas from the sides needs to be equipped with wheels, I used wheels from ordinary roller skates. And so that they can easily move along the wall of the garage, I installed vertical guides: I bought a profile for installing drywall (metal thickness 0.6 mm) at a hardware store UD and used it as guides. From the beginning I thought it would bend, but practice has shown that there is not a very large load on the sidewalls of the profile and it can withstand it quite well.

The doors are hung with chains (later replaced with metal strips 25x4mm) on the front wall of the garage building in such a way that the center of gravity of the leaf is lower than their fastening, and the location of the upper part is close to the opening.

Gates that do not open with wings, but slowly disappear from our eyes, “leaving” along the walls of the garage, are convenient, because they do not interfere and are not bulky, do not take up space. The owner of such a device does not need to think about where it will be placed when it is opened, when a garage is being built, there is no “difficulties in winter due to snow” option. When opening such an entrance, only the lower part of the gate door near the garage ceiling is visible. Lifting gates are very safe, because they are, in fact, a single piece of wood or metal and are very difficult to crack. If galvanized, they will also be very resistant to corrosion. The door will reliably protect against thieves, keep heat inside the building and will become very convenient and easy to use, but buying it is very expensive. Much cheaper and more fun to do do-it-yourself garage door.

Which model to choose?

A model with sections is a canvas, which is made up of blocks of wood, plastic, or steel, about 1.5 m in size. During the lifting of this door, the blocks are "pulled" up and then returned back in the same way. Inside, the wooden sheet will be filled with polyurethane foam, which will not let the cold into the garage in winter. The panels are connected by articulated hinges, the moving parts are made of steel or plastic (steel is better, they will last longer), and the guide skids are resistant to destruction and rust due to their composition.
Unfortunately, such a door is almost impossible to make on your own, and cracking it is quite simple. You can buy a ready-made prefabricated kit and put the door in order to get its main plus - simplicity and ease for the owner.

Lift-and-turn doors - sashes “drive” under the roof during movement using the action of hinges and levers. Such a door is very reliable and it is very difficult for an attacker to crack it in order to rob a garage. They are also quiet during the ascent, because they do not use "driving" elements: guides and rollers, while using them, it is quite difficult to pinch your finger. This is an expensive choice, about 60 thousand rubles. for the object and 15 thousand - for installation.

lifting and turning

This type of door includes a frame, a lifting sash and a mechanism that opens the door. A steel or wooden frame is mounted in the opening; profiles directly for the canvas must be placed in the box. It is made of wooden boards, sandwich panels, it should be covered with metal. A door made from a single piece of wood is a very expensive pleasure, the choice is simpler - boards impregnated with a chemical composition that will shelter from the weather and covered with metal painted in any color. You can glue the tree with pieces of pressed foam or other insulating material.

Before you start directly making the gate, you need to study the available methods of lifting.

Method when using hinges and levers. A simple design promises reliability, but you need to mount the guide profiles very well and smoothly adjust the spring tension. Profiles should be placed parallel and even.
Counterweight method. The cable is fastened down at the corners of the frame, passed through the block, led to the winch pulley, and at its end there is a counterweight. Its mass will be commensurate with the weight of the gate. The option means that the frame and frame will be subject to considerable load, it is advised to choose such a mechanism exclusively for huge gates. Next step: designing the gate. We measure the opening and draw a sketch (we search the Internet for drawings).

The box is assembled from wooden bars, their ends are connected with steel plates or corners, and the bottom deepens 2 cm deep into the floor, then we fix it in the opening with steel pins.

This type of door includes a frame, a lifting sash and a mechanism that opens the door.

How to make a design

The frame is made like this: they take a thick corner, its parameters are in direct proportion to the sheet of the shield, at 25 they take the 75th, at 50 the 100th corner. Next, we measure the garage and prepare the opening for attaching the frame, you need to make sure that its surfaces are smooth and even, if this is not the case, we take the grinder in our hands and work. Next, we are looking for a workspace for the welding process. We will have 2 channels lying on the welding site, their parameters are 20 cm smaller than the frame. We cut off the corners along the length from both ends, making sure that they fit snugly. We weld them together, make notches and use the four (five) of the electrode, create a frame, but do not weld very tightly. We apply it to the opening and control the density, if it is not there, then we adjust what happened and weld it again, then we clean the seams. We do the same with the second part of the frame, then the same - on the second wall, the frame should be made double - internal and external, install it.

A support for the channel bracket is made from the corner, in one shelf we make a hole to fix it to the racks, in the other - 3 holes to fix the spring bracket. We fix the bracket by drilling 3 holes in one of the shelves. Next, we make an adjusting plate from an iron strip, we combine the spring and the bracket with it. We bend the last coils of the spring with hooks, attaching a voltage regulator from the bar to the bottom. We create a hinged corner for the lower part from the corner, drill a hole of 8.5 mm and weld it to the frame, retreating from the lower edge to the central part of the hole. Thus, we make preparations for the manufacture of a lever for lifting on a 12 cm hinge. Further, we weld a plate for the voltage regulator to its end.

Garage Doors

It is advised to shed a trench with concrete along the length of the stroke between the side posts, press the channel parallel to the ground, when it hardens, we weld both frames.

Canvas installation

We measure the diagonal, taking into account the dimensions, bait it by welding, all kinds of gaps are excluded, we clean the seams and put the canvas. We attach the brackets and guides, their horizontal must be made perfect, then: we insulate the canvas, fasten the metal sheet, clean the seams, degrease. We adjust the springs, fix the internal fittings. The whole celebration of work and design will take two or three days.

Overhead sectional doors

The option is complicated, but they are airtight and better protect the room. They can be electric or manual. The first option is convenient, just press a button or remote control - you're done. But the manual drive breaks less often, and it’s easier to make a shield for it. The necessary parts cannot be made at home. Parts cannot be bought on the market, it is better to buy a factory kit.

The garage doorway should be measured and estimated whether a standard canvas will fit, also check that the side parts and the top and bottom of the opening are in the same plane. We add 50 cm to the height of the doorway (if the gate is driven - 100 cm), this is the length of the garage necessary for the gate to lie on its ceiling.

The option is complicated, but they are airtight and better protect the room

Sectional doors consist of a leaf, locks, movement mechanism, spring balancing mechanism and guide modules. Tires are attached along the edges of the opening, which run under the ceiling, and the gate moves along them. It is better to buy polymer sections, they practically do not corrode, do not create noise, withstanding temperatures of -50 - +60.

Installation scheme

Create markup to secure the frame and component elements. Assemble the frame structure (not much different from the similar algorithm for up-and-over doors). Everything is standard: we put the frame, fasten the rails to the ceiling with bolts, but there is no need to drill holes and make other structures to keep it on the weight. We collect the canvas, starting from the bottom, we equip the panel elements with rollers. We protect the structure with casings. We check - if everything is done correctly, the canvas will not move by itself, hanging at the level at which it was installed.

It is worth saying in conclusion - home-made sectional doors must be safe. The bet is your own car, or even your life. You should be extremely careful about the installation rules, adhere to safety precautions and pay a small amount to a specialist who will check the quality of the door installation after the owner's efforts.

Do-it-yourself lifting gates

Communities › DIY › Blog › Lifting garage doors.

Unfortunately, I cannot buy sectional doors, so it was decided to manufacture the doors myself.
I decided to do it as simply as possible, and from what is at hand and in any household. shop, eventually came to this design.

I liked this option because it is easy to manufacture, the upper guides are unnecessary and the fact that the gate has a flight outside the garage, it is convenient in the summer when it rains or shines from the side of the gate, covered a little and there are no problems.
Well, the main factor is that this type of mechanism eats up less internal space when closing and opening, since if you put the car back to the gate, then a simple design would hurt it. And I don’t want to move a car back and forth to open and close the gate

Well, actually about the design.
The dimensions of the gate opening I have: width 298 cm, height 230 cm.

I used in the manufacture of the gate:
Profile pipe 40 x 20 x 600 cm = 4 pcs.
Corner 35 x 35 x 600 cm = 4 pcs.
Corner 25 x 25 x 600 cm = 1 pc.
Polyurethane wheels = 2 pcs.
Profiled C8 120 x 200 = 6 sheets.
Unfortunately, I could not find 3 meter ones, they are not available, and there is a very small volume for ordering.
Cable 3 mm = 5 meters.
Cable thimble 3 mm = 4 pcs.
Rope holder = 4 pcs.
Rope block 30 mm = 6 pcs. (Temporary solution, will be replaced by bearings).
Bolts, nuts = I had.

I started with calculations of the distance of the gate and the fastening of the thrust.
On paper, I drew everything to scale and checked how the gate would open.
I decided to make the distance from the bottom of the gate to the wheel 80 cm, that is, the overhang of the gate is 80 cm, but it turned out to be 81 cm.
At this distance, the collar did not touch the car when opened.

But with the distance of fastening the thrust had to act by selection.
I took a rail according to the height of the collar, marked on it the place of fastening of the wheel 81 cm, then screwed in the screw where the upper fastening of the rod was planned, tied the rope, selected the required distance on the rail with the other end, I got 85 cm.
The principle of selection is as in the photo below.

For the upper attachment of the rod, one corner of the support post above the height of the gate opening was overcooked to the other side (with the corner outward, see photo).
I drilled a hole for the M12 bolt, welded a shock absorber bushing from the Volga or Zhiguli to the rod, I don’t remember exactly, it’s not a problem to find it in spare parts (see photo below).

To date, a wide variety of garage doors have been developed and successfully implemented in practice. Among all existing options, traditional lifting gates are especially convenient and ergonomic, effectively leaving under the garage ceiling during opening. At the same time, you can assemble and install lifting garage doors yourself.

Do-it-yourself garage doors

Types of lifting gates

There are 2 main types of overhead garage doors.

Doors of lifting sectional type

Gates of lifting sectional type

The leaf of such gates consists of a number of individual panels, each of which is about 50 cm high. Steel, wood and plastic can be used to make panels.

Hinges are used to connect the panels. Rollers, couplings and other moving elements are made of steel or plastic, stainless materials are used for the manufacture of guides.

The inside of the canvas is necessarily insulated (mainly polyurethane foam), which allows you to save additional heat inside the garage.

Lift Types of Sectional Garage Doors

Among the main advantages of overhead sectional doors, the following points should be noted:

safety of use;
simplicity and maximum ease of use;
good strength properties.

The main disadvantage of this subspecies of the gate is the almost complete absence of the possibility of breaking and illegal entry. In addition, you will not be able to make such a gate yourself - it is extremely difficult.

The only available option is to buy a factory kit and mount the gate yourself according to the instructions.

Up-and-over doors

A similar design can be assembled and installed independently. When this gate is opened, the whole sash rises at once. The hinge-lever type system is responsible for the movement of the moving part. The gates are characterized by excellent strength characteristics (the final indicator depends on the properties of the material of manufacture) and provide reliable protection of the garage from intruders.

Gates of up-and-over type

The structure can be assembled without the use of guides and rollers. Thanks to this, the canvas will move silently.

To assemble such a design, narrow technical knowledge is not needed. This event does not require large financial investments either.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like all existing mechanisms, lifting garage doors have a number of strengths and some disadvantages.

Advantages

The main advantage of the systems under consideration is increased burglar resistance. The only way to get inside the garage is to cut through the canvas. It is almost impossible to file a frame and get inside without attracting attention.

Hörmann garage doors

The second important advantage of the design is a long service life. However, in order for the gate to serve for a really long time, high quality galvanized metal should be used to make the leaf.

Hörmann garage doors

The gate does not take up space in front of the garage, which makes entry and exit as convenient as possible.

Flaws

Among the main disadvantages of lifting gates, the following should be noted:

large weight of the structure. The disadvantage is relative - other existing designs weigh no less. But in order for the operation of the lifting gate to be safe, special attention must be paid to the quality and reliability of the frame;
slightly increased consumption of raw materials;
some inconvenience when checking into the garage. For example, you will need to constantly get out of the car, before reaching the garage about 1.5-2 m - without such a margin, the gate simply will not open.
in the open position, the gate takes about 20-30 cm of the height of the opening;
in case of significant damage to the canvas, it will have to be completely dismantled.

However, despite all their small drawbacks, such gates are an incredibly convenient and ergonomic solution.

Design features

Do-it-yourself garage doors

Traditional overhead gates are made up of many elements. Check out the features of each.

The frame acts as the basis for the entire structure. The frame should be as rigid as possible and securely fixed in the garage wall.

The side profile is a guide element along which the main part of the structure moves.

Guides - without them, as already noted, you can do without. But if possible, it is better not to exclude them from the composition of the structure.

Homemade lifting gates

Canvas. Manufactured as a one piece unit. Usually made from corrugated board. Sometimes wood is also used to make canvases, but it is better to refuse such a decision - the material is heavy and relatively short-lived.

Insulation. Fitted between sheets of fabric. It is most convenient to use polyurethane foam.

Rollers, springs and levers. These elements are responsible for the movement of the gate leaf. The sash rises along the guide element, takes a horizontal position closer to the ceiling and, finally, is fixed parallel to the ceiling surface.

Compensating springs. Provides easier lifting of the canvas.

Electric or mechanical drive. Electronics is more convenient - to control the gate, just press the button on the portable remote control. Mechanics are more reliable in most cases. If you decide to use an electric drive, remember an important rule - the gate shield should have a somewhat lightweight design.

If desired, the finished canvas can be decorated with a variety of decorative elements. All of them are available for sale in specialized stores.

It is important to remember: any decorative element, especially if it is forging, contributes to an increase in the weight of the structure. Know the measure.

What to buy?

You can do it yourself with the manufacture of most elements of the gate. However, there are some things that are better to buy ready-made and not waste time. Give preference to fixtures made of good quality metals. In general, you will need the following:

restrictive bar. Located at the bottom of the system;
edge profile. Protects against moisture and prevents corrosion by preventing rain and melt water from entering the garage. Instead of this element, you can use high-quality and reliable sealing material;
decorative overlays. With their help, you close the gaps between the frame. Even if you follow the instructions and do everything as accurately as possible with regular level checks, you still won’t be able to align and adjust everything to the millimeter;
thermal insulation materials;
decorative elements of your choice.

Do-it-yourself lifting garage doors

DIY gate

Do-it-yourself manufacturing and installation of the gate will allow you to save a significant amount of money on the purchase of a ready-made system and the services of third-party installers.

Video - Installation of sectional doors

Up-and-over garage doors

First step. Select the appropriate type of gate opener.

The most popular are hinged-lever mechanisms. This design is durable and extremely simple. However, its installation requires increased precision from the installer at the stage of placing the guides and setting the level of spring tension. The rails must be installed exclusively vertically and parallel.

The second option is a mechanism made using counterweights. The cable is attached to the corners of the support frame in its lower part, passes along the block in the direction of the pulley, and already at its (cable) end there is some kind of counterweight. The heavier and larger the blade, the heavier the counterweight must be used. It is recommended to give preference to this mechanism only in case of installation of massive and very heavy lifting gates.

Video - Lifting gates inside view

Second step. Design a gate. Pre-measure the existing opening and prepare a sketch (or choose a ready-made option from open sources).

Third step. Prepare the tools for assembling the gate. You will need the following:

wooden blocks of high strength;
good quality metal pins;
corners;
brackets;
hard springs;
metal bars;
decorative elements.

Fourth step. Assemble a box of future gates from a transverse and a pair of vertical bars. To connect the bars, use squares, plates are also suitable.

Fifth step. Deepen the bottom of the box into the concrete screed of the garage floor by about 20 mm and fix the product in the opening with metal pins.

Sixth step. Assemble the frame and sheathe it with the selected material.

Installation of garage doors

Seventh step. Make a base. Use a corner as a starting material. Make a hole in the shelf with a drill for fixing to the racks. In the second shelf, prepare already 3 holes for installing the bracket. To make a spring support, use a channel bracket.

Eighth step. Prepare a plate from a strip of steel. Connect the bracket and a suitable spring with a steel plate. Bend the extreme turns of the fixed spring like hooks. Connect the tension controller made of a metal bar from below.

Installation of garage doors

Ninth step. Make a lower hinged corner. You need to drill a hole of about 8.5 mm in diameter in the corner and weld the product to the support frame of the structure, stepping back from the bottom edge to the center of the prepared hole. The gap will allow you to place the lift arm in the right place on the hinge.

Tenth step. Attach the plate to the end of the lift arm. Use welding to securely fix the elements.

Eleventh step. Make rails for the movement of the gate leaf. Use a couple of corners as a starting material. Make them up and weld along one edge. The distance between the inner tops of the steel angles should be 50 mm.

Twelfth step. Attach the finished rail to the previously prepared plate. For fastening, use welding. At the same time, leave an 8 cm indent between the axis of the guide part and the edge of the transverse product below. Attach a piece of channel to the second end of the rail by welding, while stepping back about 15 cm. Then screw the channel to the ceiling beam with a bolt.

Video - Guides for lifting garage doors, part 1

Video - Guides for lifting garage doors, part 2

Thirteenth step. Mount several translucent inserts into the canvas. This is an optional item. Use translucent inserts when you need to improve natural lighting inside the garage.

Video - Lifting gate frame, part 3

Video - Wheels for lifting gates, part 4

Fourteenth step. Stick on the rubber seal. It also does not hurt to stick compensating pads. Together, these elements will increase the stability of homemade lifting gates.

Fifteenth step. Fix the canvas in the box.

Thus, there are no super-difficult tasks in self-assembly of lifting garage doors, but this work must be approached with maximum responsibility and knowledge of the matter. Follow the instructions, do everything as accurately as possible, and the gate of your garage will become its reliable and durable protection.

Video - DIY lifting garage doors

Do-it-yourself lifting gates to the garage: how to do it better

Lifting gates to the garage are a convenient, reliable, practical design for protecting the premises from the intrusion of unauthorized persons. When opened, they occupy a horizontal position, slightly moving forward, form a small visor above the entrance.

How to make a garage lifting gate with your own hands, their advantages and disadvantages will be discussed in the proposed article.

Types of lifting gates, their advantages and disadvantages

There are two types of rising garage doors:

Devices in which the canvas has several sections about half a meter high. When opened, such a canvas, consisting of panels, is “pulled” inside the garage under the ceiling, and then falls back vertically down. The material for the manufacture of elements can be:

wood;
plastic;
metal.

The space inside the door leaf is filled with a heater - polyurethane, which provides effective thermal insulation of the structure.

Gate panels, in this case, are connected on articulated hinges. In such products, rollers, couplings and other moving elements are made of metal or plastic, materials that are resistant to corrosion are used for guide skids.

The advantages of this design:

simple in operation;
sufficient reliability.

low resistance to breaking;
It is unrealistic to make such a device on your own completely.

To reduce the cost, you can:

leave the manual drive, but the rejection of the mechanical device worsens the ease of use;
reduce the size of the door opening - adjust their width and height to the minimum number of panels.

Tip: If you want to install a structure of this type in the garage with your own hands, you should purchase a set of elements already prepared for assembly, and install them yourself.

Swinging garage doors. In this case, the one-piece sash rises to the ceiling when opened. The movement of the element is carried out due to the action of the hinge-lever mechanism. A diagram of such a device is shown in the photo.

The advantages of this design are:

high strength of the product;
the device perfectly protects the garage from the penetration of strangers;
noiseless operation of the gate when the leaf moves - there are no rollers and guides that could create noise;
Do-it-yourself swing-up garage doors are quite realistic to make. To do this, you can not have special technical knowledge, while their price is much lower, the costs will be associated only with the acquisition of material.

The disadvantages of the design include:

their installation is possible only in rectangular openings;
the height of the opening in the open state is reduced by about 20 centimeters;
the whole web of the device does not allow repairing individual sections, which, if damaged, requires a complete replacement of the entire element;
the gates have a spring mechanism designed for a certain mass of the product, therefore, if thermal insulation is necessary, the mass of the insulation should be taken into account: if it greatly increases the total weight of the insulated gates, counterweights will need to be installed;
there may be gaps between the frame and the leaf, they can be eliminated with a rubber seal, but such gates should only be installed in unheated garages.

How do overhead doors work

Overhead garage doors consist of:

frames. This is the basis of the design, it is arranged in the opening of the garage or directly behind it and serves as the leading part of the product when moving the gate. The frame is usually made from rectangular tubes.
Roller and lifting arm systems serving to open the gate. With their help, the sash of the structure moves along the guides, and then is fixed under the ceiling of the garage.
canvases. Its lower part rises and forms a visor above the garage opening. To insulate the garage, the door leaf is pasted over with pressed foam, insulated with polystyrene foam or other heat-insulating materials. For beauty, they can be sheathed with plastic or wood panels.
guides, which serve to rotate the frame around its axis. At the same time, it moves from a vertical position to a horizontal one and vice versa.
compensation springs, which in the closed position of the device are stretched, and in the open position remain free.

Hinged or simple, is the most reliable and most popular device that provides a simple movement of the shield and prevents it from blocking.

Tip: Be sure to carefully adjust the tension of the springs and ensure high accuracy of mounting the guides. In this case, to prevent jamming of the shield, it is necessary to set the guides strictly vertically and be sure both are parallel to each other.

counterweight mechanism. In this design, the cable is attached at the bottom to the corners of the frame, goes through the block to the winch pulley, and a counterweight is placed at the end. With an increase in the weight of the gate shield, the mass of the counterweight increases. In this case, the gate frame and frame are heavily loaded, and the mechanism is used for installation in massive gates.

How to make your own overhead garage door

Before you start making lifting garage doors with your own hands, you need to decide on the opening mechanism. After choosing its type, the dimensions of the gate opening are taken, a design sketch is designed, materials and tools are purchased.

For work you will need:

Wooden bars, for the manufacture of the box - with a section of 12 x 8 centimeters and on the ceiling 10 x 10 centimeters.
Metal pins.
Corners are equilateral: for rails, section 40 x 4 and for frame 35 x 4.
Channel No. 8 for the bracket.
Spring.
Metal rod with a diameter of 8 millimeters.

The instruction according to which do-it-yourself garage lifting gates are made offers:

Assemble the frame from two vertical bars and one transverse. The parts are connected with steel squares or plates.
Deepen the vertical posts into the floor screed by two centimeters.
Fix the frame in the opening with steel pins.
Assemble the frame for the door leaf.
The door leaf is assembled from boards, the outside is covered with a steel sheet.
Expanded polystyrene, polystyrene can be used for thermal insulation.
To make a support for the assembly: two holes with a diameter of 10 millimeters are drilled in one of the shelves of the corner for attaching the support to the uprights, in the other shelf there are three more holes for fixing the spring bracket. For a spring, it is better to make a support from a channel.
Make an adjusting plate from a strip of metal to connect the spring and the bracket.
The extreme turns of the spring are bent in the form of hooks, a voltage regulator made of a bar is attached from below. On one side, a ring is obtained, on the other, threading is performed.
From the corner, make a hinge assembly for the bottom of the structure with a hole with a diameter of 8.5 millimeters and weld it to the frame between the rib located at the bottom and the middle of the hole designed to install the lever of the lifting mechanism located on the 120 mm hinge.

Weld a plate to the end of the lever to install the voltage regulator.
Make rails along which the gate will move. To do this, two corners are connected, and then welded in such a way that an internal space of five centimeters remains between their tops and welded along one edge.
Weld the rail to the plate with holes. Between the axis of the guide and the rib installed at the bottom of the crossbar, a gap of 8 centimeters should be left.
At the other end of the rail, weld a piece of the channel, stepping back from the end of about 15 centimeters.
The channel is fixed with a bolt to the ceiling bar.
During installation, constant control of the horizontality of the guides should be carried out.
The canvas can be additionally equipped with locking systems that will increase its safety, and the installation of various security mechanisms will protect against hacking.
To increase the amount of light in the garage, you can install inserts of translucent material in the canvas.
To give the structure additional stability, you can stick compensating pads and install a rubber edging.

How to make a lifting gate for a garage in more detail will show the video. Also on our resource you can learn in detail about swing metal garage doors with a wicket.

Plastic bottle jack

Classical swing gates today are increasingly giving way to a relatively new design of overhead sectional doors for our realities. It is no secret that for a long time the majority of motorists considered swing garage schemes to be the most resistant to burglary, but it gradually became clear that it was pointless to sacrifice comfort and ease of use. Since only professionally built security alarm systems can stop intruders, and the design itself, whether it be swing, sliding or sectional gates, does not represent a special obstacle for intruders.

What are the advantages of overhead sectional doors?

The reasons and conditions for which motorists prefer lifting sectional schemes are obvious:

The appearance of the new design garage door is much prettier and more pleasant;
Instead of two heavy swing doors, one type-setting sheet of several sections is used; with the external complexity of the design, you can assemble sectional doors with your own hands in a few days;
As a rule, sectional garage doors are installed with an eye to further automation of the process of opening and closing doors. In this sense, lifting sectional structures are unrivaled, it is much easier to install control equipment and a drive than on swing doors.

Important! Due to the fact that the sectional door leaf is recessed in the doorway, rainwater flows, snow and water film do not flow into the seal, while for swing garage doors, the autumn-winter period is always accompanied by freezing of the seal to the steel frame.

It is the ability to open the garage by pressing a button on the remote control, without having to leave the car, that most attracts motorists. Often, the garage doors of the old scheme have to be opened in the rain, snowdrifts are brushed aside from the hinged doors before you can get into the garage.

Lift-and-turn garage doors related to the device in conditions of snow drifts also often have to be dug out, less than swing doors, but there is a lot of work to be done before it becomes possible to release the lower edge of the door leaf. Sectional structures have practically no such problems. Even if it snows and the power goes out, sectional garage doors can be lifted relatively easily with a hand crank.

Sectional door device

Of course, the device of overhead sectional doors is much more complicated, we can say that sectional door schemes, photos, are a product of a new generation. In total, about two dozen components and parts are used in new garage doors.

The main structural elements of overhead sectional doors are shown in the diagram.

In a simplified version, the design of overhead sectional doors includes:

Door leaf assembled from separate 4-5 sections. Separate panels are interconnected on hinges. Sections are most often made in the form of sandwich panels. Between two sheets of thin galvanized metal, a polyurethane foam or mineral fiber insulation is laid;
Two pairs of guides connected by arcuate sections. Vertical beams, connected to the top crossbar and steel sill, act as a garage door frame, providing strength to the doorway. Horizontal guides serve to hold the sectional door leaf in the ceiling space;
An electric drive that provides lifting of the door leaf and laying it on horizontal rails;
Additional springs of a linear or torsion type, designed to balance the rather large weight of the door leaf. This reduces the load on the electric drive and roller bearings;
To ensure minimal resistance when lifting, rubber-coated plastic or metal rollers are installed at the ends of each section.

Note! In the manufacture of sectional garage doors in industrial conditions, the inner surface of the guide rails, along which the roller bearings run, has a special coating of fluoroplastic or corrugated rubber, which ensures scoring-free movement of the rollers in any weather.

The most complex element in the design of sectional garage doors is considered to be an electric drive. The design of an electric motor with a linear chain or belt drive is not particularly difficult to make with your own hands, but there is one feature. In most series drive models, the electric motors are equipped with emergency stop switches. If the interference sensor is triggered, then you can be sure that the lowering leaf will not crush the stalled car and will not injure a person who is under the leaf of the overhead sectional door.

We build overhead sectional doors with our own hands

Any construction begins with the marking of the future territory for construction. If you plan to buy a ready-made set of overhead sectional doors, then before you try to install sectional doors with your own hands, you need to measure the parameters of the doorway, side walls, lintels and the depth of the garage space.

For purchased door models, before placing an order, you will need to measure:

The shortest distance from the vertical post of the doorway to the side wall must be at least 12 cm;
The lintel, or the distance from the upper lintel of the doorway to the ceiling beam, should be 35-40 cm, in non-standard cases, for a fee, you can order a drive mechanism for low-profile garage roofs, in which the lintel is only 9-10 cm;
The maximum width of the lifting sectional structures is limited only by the possibilities of the garage space. Often, due to the specific large slope of the shed roof, garage doors have to be limited to a height of 200 cm.

For the manufacture of a home structure of overhead sectional doors, the following parameters can be used: lintel - 400 mm, side niches - at least 300 mm, the optimal section dimensions for the door leaf are 350x2500 mm.

It should be remembered that after installing horizontal rails, the useful ceiling of the garage space will decrease to 210-220 cm, so you may have to change the arrangement of things in the garage space and, above all, the car.

Option of sections and guides for makeshift overhead sectional doors

Initially, you will need to make and assemble the canvas itself. In industrial models of overhead sectional doors, sections are stamped in a standard size - thickness 40 mm, height 400 mm. For a self-made design, it is best to reduce the height of the sections to 300 mm; for overhead sectional doors with a standard opening height, 7 panels will be required.

The easiest way is to make panels from thin galvanized metal with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. To do this, strips are initially cut with a width of 350 mm and a length equal to the width of the garage door. On the sides of the strips, the sides are 20 mm high with a hammer.

Finished sections are interconnected using conventional door or garage canopies. The hinges can be welded, but are best secured with rivets, bolts and nuts. The bolted connection will allow you to adjust the location of the canopies so that the assembled canvas bends exactly the same on each hinge. At least three canopies are required to connect two sections of a garage up-and-over sectional door.

The next step is to make vertical and horizontal rails for garage sectional doors. You can use the same metal as for the manufacture of sectional panels. For the manufacture of vertical guides, two strips of metal are cut, the width of the strip is selected based on the dimensions of the roller, most often for lifting gate structures a roller with an outer diameter of 50 mm and a width of 22 mm is used. In this case, the width of the workpiece will be 95-100 mm.

The workpiece is bent on the mandrel so that a rectangular profile with a cut on the side wall is obtained. The roller bearing should enter relatively freely inside the profiled guide, with a small gap of 1.0-1.5 mm. The second pair is made in a similar way - horizontal guides.

The most difficult is the manufacture of transitional arcs connecting both pairs of guides. For a section with a height of 35 cm, it will be necessary to make a curved profile with a radius of curvature of 45 cm.

Preliminary assembly of garage overhead sectional doors begins with the installation of vertical slats. The guides are put on the canvas rollers, installed in the doorway and fixed with a temporary fastener. Next, put on transitional arcs and try on horizontal slats. Based on the results of the measurement, a mount for the arcs and the second pair of guides is manufactured and installed. The biggest problem in the manufacture of the guide mechanism for garage overhead sectional doors is the selection of the curvature of the transition arc. Therefore, the arcs are made of several options, and the most suitable option is determined by trial and error.

Operator for garage up-and-over sectional doors

Automation and electric drive for garage doors are the most expensive part of the estimate for the construction of a lifting sectional structure. In the most primitive version, for the manufacture of an electric drive, a starter from a car is used with a mounted sprocket from the camshaft and a double-row chain. The power of a home-made drive is enough to open a lifting-sectional structure up to 300 kg in weight. But the lifting speed turns out to be unnecessarily large, even taking into account the installation of a voltage regulator.

In addition, a powerful transformer with a DC output of at least 10V is required to power the starter motor. Many do-it-yourselfers prefer to power the drive with an old car battery connected to a charger.

In order for the overhead sectional door to be opened manually without a drive, it is necessary to unload the heavy leaf of the garage door with a spring, or, more often, a spring and an additional load. It is necessary to select the unloading parameters on an individual basis.

Conclusion

It is considered more reliable and safer to use a purchased version of garage automation; inexpensive SECTIONAL or CAME Ver models are most often used. For example, the SECTIONAL500 model will cost 6 thousand rubles with a set of mounts and sensors. Almost all automation for garage lift gates is designed for low-voltage power and remote control, therefore, if the design is built for long-term use, purchasing branded automation will be a good solution.

Independent production of garage doors allows not only significant savings, compared with the option of purchasing and installing ready-made ones, but also brings moral satisfaction. It is much more pleasant for any owner to exploit something made by himself. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that this structural element is not at all simple, and the importance of high-quality, reliable and beautiful garage doors is obvious.

Types of structures

Before proceeding directly to the manufacturing process, it is necessary to determine the type of construction. In recent years, overhead gates have gained popularity. They are of two types:

Lifting sectional; (on the picture);
lifting and turning; (See photo).

Garage door installation technology

We propose to consider the technology of creating up-and-over doors, as the most simple and inexpensive to manufacture. Having decided on the type of construction, you can go directly to the consideration of instructions for the manufacture and installation of lifting gates with your own hands.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to complete the finishing of the adjacent ceiling and walls. Floor concreting work is allowed to be carried out after the installation of the gate.

Step-by-step instruction:

Assemble the frame from the bars (one transverse, two longitudinal).
Fasten the timber between the plates.
The frame from below should be deepened into the floor by 2 centimeters.
Fasten the box with pins in the gate opening.
Assemble the door leaf from the selected materials.
Sheathe the canvas with sheet metal.
From the existing corner, make a support for the mechanism.
Make holes (d = 10 mm) for mounting the bracket with a spring.
Make two holes (d = 10 mm) in the rails located longitudinally.
Make a control plate.
Connect the adjusting plate spring and bracket.
From the corner, make a hinge assembly.
Weld the frame and hinge assembly.
From two corners, make rails along which the canvas will move.
Weld a plate with holes and a guide.
Fasten the channel with a bolt to the beam on the ceiling.

At the first stage, the frame is assembled, then holes for the mounting brackets are drilled. After that, the box is installed and leveled, the holes between the profile and the wall are sealed with mounting foam. Be sure to check the level of the correct installation of the frame.

The next stage of work is fixing the rails to the ceiling. Then the canvas is assembled and inserted into the skids. Springs and levers are installed to ensure the lifting and movement of the canvas. On all sides of the shield, a profile for edging is installed without fail, and from below - a restrictive bar that protects the gate stop from corrosion.

Necessary materials:

Wooden bars 120 * 80 in size (used for the box) and 100 * 100 millimeters (used in the manufacture of ceiling rails);
Metal pins;
Spring. The minimum diameter is 3 centimeters;
Corner for the frame and guide rails 3.5 * 3.5 * 0.4 and 4 * 4 * 0.4 mm, respectively;
Bracket from a channel 8 * 4.3 * 0.5 centimeters;
A rod (approximate diameter 0.8 cm) for the manufacture of a voltage regulator.

Video instruction:

The most important points to pay attention to:

The location of the guides must be strictly horizontal. This is necessary to avoid jamming the web during movement. The best option is to install hinge systems;
It is necessary to correctly adjust the spring tension of the gate mechanism in order to ensure the stability of any position of the leaf;
In order to safely operate the gate, it is recommended to install safety stops to fix the leaf in one position or another.

The opening and closing of the lift-and-turn type gates is carried out either manually or by means of an electric drive, which is started by a button or a remote control. The latter option is obviously more convenient.

Lift-and-turn design features

The principle of operation of this type of gate is that the door leaf, consisting of a single leaf, rises to the ceiling when opened. The movement of the sash is provided by the action of a hinged-lever device.

Design advantages:

Relatively high strength and resistance against breaking and possible penetration;
Noiselessness of work;
Possibility of making your own.

Self-manufacturing

Structurally, the gate consists of three main elements:
box or frame;
Movable sash;
A device that opens and closes a gate.

The box is the basis of the structure, it is made of beams, steel or wooden. Guides are mounted in it, along which the sash moves.

The lifting sash itself is made in the form of a single sheet of different materials: a sheet of boards sheathed with metal, a sandwich panel, etc. A variant is often used using a shield made of boards, which is sheathed on the outside with galvanized iron, and inside is pasted over with polystyrene foam or some other heat-insulating material. No less popular is the design of galvanized steel sheets, coated on both sides with protective compounds, and a heater located between the sheets. Expanded polystyrene or extruded polystyrene is used as a heater. It is allowed to install a gate in the canvas or install anti-vandal roller shutters (Alutech) from the front side of the structure.

Another video about the features of making your own hands:

The mechanism that opens the gate is made according to drawings and diagrams or is bought ready-made. The second option is quite acceptable, since there is a large offer of such products on the market at quite reasonable prices.

Gates of lifting sectional type

The main feature of overhead sectional doors is the presence of a leaf made up of a number of about half a meter panels. During the opening process, the canvas moves to the ceiling, when closing, it accordingly returns down to its original position. The panels are connected by hinged loops, the canvas moves along the guide skids.

Panels are usually made of various materials: steel, plastic, and wood are used. For effective thermal insulation, the internal filling of the gate is made of polyurethane foam.

Design advantages:

Simplicity of design;
Operational safety;
Relatively good strength.

Design cons:

Low resistance to breaking;
Sufficiently high noise level;
Difficulty in making your own.

It seems unrealistic to make such gates on your own, since almost all structural elements require a factory level of manufacture for reliable operation. Otherwise, you will have to sacrifice the performance of the design. The only possible saving option is self-assembly of the purchased ready-made kit.

Do-it-yourself lifting garage doors

Today, lifting garage doors are very popular, and they are also convenient, reliable and practical protection for the garage, but at the same time, factory options are quite expensive. Opening with the help of a special mechanism, they take a horizontal position under the ceiling and move forward for a short length, thereby forming a small shelter in the form of a visor. As already mentioned, factory samples are quite expensive, but no one bothers to study the Internet resources for the independent manufacture of such gates, and armed with the necessary tools and drawings, make them yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of the lifting structure

The lifting structure perfectly fulfills the function assigned to it and has a number of undeniable advantages over other types of garage doors, but at the same time it is not without drawbacks.

Advantages:

No additional opening space required. The unused space under the ceiling is used.
The one-piece construction of the canvas provides reliable protection against penetration.
Any exterior finish and decoration can be used.
The door leaf can be additionally insulated with expanded polystyrene.
It is possible to supply equipment for automatic opening.
Can be used in both single and double garages.

The disadvantages are primarily due to the design features of the lifting mechanism and the inability to do otherwise.

Flaws:

Installation is only possible in rectangular openings.
In case of damage, a single piece of cloth must be replaced, since it does not imply partial repair.
When the gate is open, the height of the opening decreases.
The door mechanism is designed for a certain load and this should be taken into account when insulating.
Some complexity of installation.

The device and scheme of operation of folding garage doors

The system of lifting (shield) gates is a fairly simple mechanical device. The main and load-bearing elements are the frame, the guides and the lever-spring mechanism that moves the sash. The mechanism can be controlled both manually and using an electric drive controlled by a remote control (remote control). When opening the gate, levers attached to the lower part of the sash, and two guides for the movement of the rollers, fixed at the top of the sash, are used. Opening is carried out by lifting the lower part of the sash by the handle and is done quite easily, since the stretched springs of the lever mechanism help in opening the gate.

The scheme of the lifting mechanism

There are two types of lift gates:

Lever-spring - a fairly simple and reliable mechanism, which is popular among garage owners. Mounting features: Precise adjustment of the tension springs and high quality and precision mounting of the roller guides.
With counterweights - mainly used on gates with a large leaf weight. The cable is attached to the lower corners of the sash and passes through the pulley to a counterweight attached to the other end of the winch.

Scheme of lifting gates

Lifting garage door drawing

When preparing a drawing for your opening dimensions, you should use ready-made solutions by slightly adjusting them to your dimensions. Here is an example of drawings for the manufacture of gates:

Lift gate drawing

Frame drawing, dimensions must be put down for your gate dimensions.

frame drawing

What is required for the manufacture

For the manufacture of the sash frame, profile pipes of rectangular section with dimensions of 40 * 20 and a wall thickness of 2 mm are most suitable. For transverse and longitudinal spars we also use profile pipes, but smaller sizes - namely 20 * 20 * 2 mm, to reduce the weight of the structure. For sewing up the front and inner sides of the sash, a profile sheet is best suited, since it is already initially covered with an anti-corrosion compound from the factory. You can also use sheets of galvanized sheet.

For guides, it is ideal to use a channel up to 20 cm wide. The size of the channel shelf depends on the width of the rollers used in your particular case. The box to which the lever-spring mechanism is attached in the garage doorway can be made of a 100 * 50 mm wooden beam. For these purposes, you can also use a metal corner with a shelf of 50 mm.

Roller rollers and lever-spring are bought separately in a store specializing in sliding gates.

For thermal insulation of the gate, for reasons of price and quality, it is advisable to use expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 40 mm and a density of 15 to 25 kg / m 3.

Tools

For work, the following tools should be at hand:

Bulgarian;
welding machine;
tape measure, pencil;
a hammer;
screwdriver, screwdriver;
drill, drill;
set of wrenches;
level.

Step by step manufacturing instructions

How and what to insulate

The classic heaters used for these purposes are mineral wool and polystyrene foam boards. Styrofoam compares favorably with mineral slabs in that it does not shrink over time. We will insulate the sash with foam plastic 40 mm thick and density 20. First, we insert the foam plastic without fastening into the sash in order to cut off all the necessary cuts to size. Foam sheets are glued to the profile sheet from the inside between the side members on the "liquid nails". Next, we fasten the inner plane of the sash with a sheet of galvanized sheet with self-tapping screws with a drill.

Styrofoam insulation of the gate leaf

Exploitation

For the convenience of using garage doors, you can install an electric drive with a control unit operating from commands from the remote control to the existing opening system. When purchasing an operator, make sure that it fits your type of gate.

In winter, rubber seals must be periodically lubricated with silicone grease to prevent the leaf from freezing and damaging the seal when the gate is opened. Also periodically pay attention to the lubrication of the lever system and the support rollers.

Video: homemade folding garage doors

Video: lift-and-swivel design

The system of lifting garage doors is easy to implement on your own, so almost any car owner with skills in welding and working with metal is able to do this, the main thing is to be more careful with the installation of such critical elements as guides. From the beginning of work to the complete installation of the gate, you can manage it in 2 days if you call friends or acquaintances to help.

House

To ensure the long-term preservation of the car, it must be stored in a place that will protect it from the effects of rain, frost, etc. But atmospheric phenomena are not the worst thing that can harm the car, so you should equip garages with reliable gates. Well suited for such a task, and also distinguished by their unusual design, rotary lifting gates. Next, we consider the features of their design, drawings and the sequence of manufacturing with our own hands.

Advantages, disadvantages and complexity of self-creation of up-and-over doors

The advantages of such structures include:

They are difficult to hack.
They open without the need for effort.
With the right technology, they are durable.
Save interior space.
Can be installed in various garage openings.

Flaws:

The complexity of the work.
The mechanical components of the structure can be overloaded.
High thermal conductivity.

Despite the need to have basic skills in handling a welding machine, as well as some other tools, almost everyone can make a swing gate with their own hands. In the process of work, you need to use the correct drawings and work exactly with the specified data.

How is the design?

Frame Features

List of main parts of swing gates:

The frame is the main part of the entire structure, on which the remaining elements are fixed.
Swivel sash mounted in a steel frame.
Return spring - needed for manual closing.
Sash movement mechanism.

For the sash, it is better to use materials with low weight indicators - this will reduce the level of load on the structure, which will ensure its long and trouble-free operation.

Basic structural elements

When making a gate frame with your own hands, you need to be guided by the dimensions of the garage opening. It is optimal to choose plank boards or wall panels as the material of the valves (used for finishing structures). If necessary, insulation is better to use non-flammable materials.

It is especially important before making it yourself to decide on the type of mechanism that will move the sash from one position to another. It can be in the form:

Hinged-lever design based on moving hinges along guides, the task of which is to move 2 levers in specific directions.
Counterweights that move the sash using a block system.

The second option is easier to make with your own hands, but it implies the need for more materials to create.

What do you need to make your own?

Detailed Drawing Example

To make homemade swing gates of the lifting type, you need to prepare:

Welding machine (without his presence, the collection of the remaining items on the list is irrational).
Drill.
Spanners.
Roulette.
Screwdrivers.
Level.
The material for creating hinges and guide components is a channel or corner.
return springs.
corners.
Brackets.
Counterweights.
Guide rails.
Cable.
Selected elements to create a sash.
Steel for finishing.
profile pipe.

Example of a design with automation

Specific data on the amount of materials, their dimensions and parameters must be taken from a specific drawing selected or created for a specific garage.

The sequence of work on creating a lifting garage door with your own hands

Execution example with drawing

Box assembly. It has the form of a U-shaped structure, built from 3 beams, buried in the mass of the screed of the reinforced concrete floor structure. The depth should be at least 2 cm. Plates or squares are used to fix the horizontal beam.
Hinge installation. The top bracket is mounted under the ceiling of the structure. To prevent jamming during operation, you need to make sure that after installing the bracket, its movement along the sash is completely free.
Sash manufacturing. Steel corners are cut to the desired length and the frame is welded from them. When it is ready and the compliance with the opening is checked, the sash elements are installed in the frame and fixed with self-tapping screws. As a rule, at this stage, warming is immediately carried out. Next, you need to install rubber seals.
Rail mounting. This is the name of the part of the structure into which the hinge rollers are inserted. The location of the rails can be chosen depending on the characteristics of a particular garage: on the sides of the top bracket or directly under the ceiling. Once installed, the rollers should move freely and smoothly.
Pre-installation of the sash. This is necessary in order to mark the fixation points of the lifting mechanism in the sash.
Strengthening the hinge mechanism to the sash. To begin with, you just need to screw on the hinges and make sure that the levers move freely when the lifting gate moves. If this is not the case, check their correct location (they must be installed parallel to each other).
Installation of counterweights or springs. They are mounted on a guide bracket. Springs should be installed to the right and left of the sash. They should also be parallel. Return type springs are required to ensure complete closure of the garage. If their characteristics are not enough for this, then they experiment with a mass of counterweights.
Installation of steel linings. They are attached to the ends of the structure with self-tapping screws.
Plastering joints. To perform this step with your own hands, you can use ordinary cement mortar.
10. Installation of the lock.

When doing work with your own hands, you need to make sure that it is done in strict accordance with the selected or created drawing. Each process must be taken with all responsibility - a small mistake can cause problems with the operation of the mechanism. If you are not completely sure that the work is done correctly, it is better to read the special documentation or ask for advice from a professional who will help you navigate in a particular case.

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Lifting garage doors that rise to the ceiling are factory called sectional because they fold in several places. In my version, as in many homemade gates with a lift up, there are no sections, it is a one-piece gate that moves with two vertical and two horizontal rails. Lifting gates have two big advantages, they do not take up space, and they cannot be covered with snow, besides, it is much easier to automate them (put a drive).

I will make lifting gates to the garage from a profile pipe 20x40 mm, and I will sew it up with a profiled sheet. The guides will also be from the same profile pipe, along which the gate will ride on bearings.

Gate guide

I saw out a guide from a 20x40 pipe to insert the bearing on the axle.

Next, I welded the frame of the gate from the same pipes, made the size of the opening 280 cm. Height 230 cm, reinforced the corners with a corner. The garage is frame, in the process of construction, the opening is not yet limited from above, on the sides there are racks made of 50 * 150 mm boards. I fixed the vertical rails, tilting them slightly into the garage so that the gate rises more easily.

Gate bearings

I welded bolts with bearings to the gate frame, put the bearing into the guide, the upper bearings and guides have not yet been installed.

View from inside the garage.

So that the gate would not fall out of the guide down, I drilled a profile at the bottom, and inserted a nail. The guide screwed directly to the board.

A corner holds the guide on top

Then I sawed off the excess from the vertical guide, welded a bracket for the upper roller to the top of the gate frame, and already welded a bolt with a bearing to it. I also put a horizontal guide, fixed it on brackets to the ceiling, put a bearing into it.

Side view of the same node, only from the other side of the gate

Photo mounting bracket horizontal rail

The bracket is made of a profile pipe and fittings, welded to the guide

I adjusted the gate guides, sewed it up with corrugated board. The garage has not yet been insulated, there is only a frame, everything is done in parallel.

Sheathing with profiled sheet

View from the outside, the corrugated board is not very even. Attached it to the roofing screws.

In order for the gate to rise easily, without effort, you need to put a counterweight, for this, through blocks, on a cable, I hung two buckets with screenings.

Gate block system

Blocks I use like this

This is how the gate looks in the open position, raised up to the ceiling

Garage door insulation

The garage was insulated, there was a question about the insulation of the lifting gates, with their own hands. They can not be made too heavy, so I will insulate with extruded polystyrene foam. I will glue it on the mounting foam to the profiled sheet, for the reliability of fastening I will add more rails, which I fasten to the roofing screws to the profile pipe of the gate itself.

After gluing the insulation, it must be pressed until the foam dries. In this photo of the lifting gate, you can see the design of the counterweights, I redid it so that there was only one counterweight, and it is in the corner, for this I redid the cables a little, and put additional blocks (1,2,3) The green arrows show the movement of the cables when the gate is raised.

At the bottom, the cables are fixed to the brackets.

Lifting counterweights

A more detailed photo of the node where the cables come from the counterweights of the gate

So that the cables are the same, and the gate does not warp when lifting or lowering, I put the counterweight not on the cables, but on the same block that rolls freely along the cable, thereby ensuring a uniform tension of the cable, i.e. my cable consists of one single piece, the ends of which are fixed on the bottom of the gate, and the load pulls the loop through the block.

As a result, the lifting gates to the garage are insulated and equipped with counterweights.

I’m lifting it manually for the time being, in the future I plan to put a drive with remote control of the gate, of course I will do everything with my own hands.

This is what a do-it-yourself lifting gate looks like from the inside in the cold

30 mm insulation freezes through, this thickness is apparently not enough for the Urals, most likely you will have to make another layer of 30 mm, the total will be 60 mm.

Outside view UPD

The garage is lined, the gates are practically completed, they look like this, hands have not yet reached automation.

During the operation of the garage, we decided to put the door on the side of the gate, in winter, in order to go outside, we had to raise the gate, this is not very convenient and heat loss.

in raised position

The gate is working for the second year (UPD from)

To make it warmer in the garage, they made a wood-burning stove from a barrel. See article

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Do-it-yourself garage lifting gates photos, drawings, and descriptions

It is required that the fit of the closed gate to the opening be as tight as possible, in addition, a wicket should be provided in the gate in order not to force cold air into the garage building during the full opening of the gate in winter.

Download garage door drawing

After performing these steps, we get a gate in which the gate opens to the side of the street. The gate must open in such a way that when the gate is raised, it does not open by itself (this is fraught with injuries).

In order to facilitate the lifting of the gate leaf and simplify its maintenance in the uppermost position, it is necessary to provide the structure with a counterweight, the selection of which is made in accordance with the weight of the leaf. The roller axles are equipped with cables, which should be passed through the blocks and loaded with a counterweight.

At the bottom of the gate, from the outside, you should install a conventional door handle, which helps with closing and opening the gate, since it is convenient to use.

That's all about production technology. Using these instructions, you can easily build a lift-type gate in your garage.

A few more garage door options - video

Lifting garage doors are the best way to solve the problem of free space. But the problem lies in the high cost of factory models. Therefore, if you have the desire, tools and supplies, you can make them yourself. What will be required in order to make a do-it-yourself lifting gate for your garage? Instructions and drawings will help solve this issue.

Fabrication scheme analysis

Unlike other options, it is not recommended to take a factory model drawing as a basis. In most cases, the web is lifted using a complex system of counterweights and guides. It will be problematic to make such a gate design on your own. But from this drawing, you can take some components.

The lower part is a particular problem. Making moving hinges and an adjustable lift system would be tricky. The way out is to fix the lower part of the door leaf with a system of rollers. The frame will serve as guides. As a result, the scheme will be modernized for the manufacture of the structure with your own hands.

Description of the principle of operation of homemade lifting garage doors:

The upper rollers are mounted on l-shaped profile pipes. The movement takes place along horizontal guides from a U-shaped profile.
Lifting is carried out with the help of a counterweight. A hook is welded from the bottom of the gate, to which a steel cable is attached, leading to the roller at the top. The mass of the counterweight depends on the weight of the sash and its height, and is determined empirically.
Additionally, you can make a swing sash. To do this, stiffeners must be welded onto the door frame.
The canvas is formed from aluminum or galvanized sheets. It is desirable to make insulation from the inside.

This is a general description of the principle of manufacture and operation of the structure. Details can be adapted to a specific opening, improve the functionality of overhead gates.

Required Consumables

Most often, available material is used for manufacturing. Rolled metal can be purchased at its delivery points, old structures can be used, having previously disassembled them. It is necessary to check the quality of the blanks - the absence of mechanical deformation, rust or other defects.

For the manufacture will require the following materials and components:

The frame of the gate is made of a corner or a channel. Thickness - from 50 mm and more. It should be noted that a layer of insulation and inner lining will be installed.
The box should perform two functions - fix the canvas and be a guide for the rollers. To do this, it is recommended to take a channel 30 * 50 * 30 cm.
Top horizontal rails. They are also made from a channel, but smaller. The width depends on the selected rollers.
Rollers. There are no special requirements for them, it is important that the surface is rubberized.
Square pipes. Necessary for the manufacture of additional structures.

The thickness of each component depends on the overall dimensions of the structure. The channel of the box must be at least 3 mm, the frame - from 1.5 mm. For installation, dowels are required, it is recommended to connect the elements of the lifting gate by welding. Mechanical fasteners will not provide the proper quality of connections.

Work sequence

After drawing up a drawing of a lifting garage door, you need to choose the right material and make blanks. Overall dimensions take into account the thickness of the weld. The opening is being prepared - alignment of the walls, checking the dimensions horizontally, vertically and diagonally. Adjustments are made to the drawing.

Work order:

Installation of the box and upper horizontal rails. The latter are attached to the ceiling of the garage.
According to the obtained dimensions, a frame is made. It should not be 3-5 mm larger than the dimensions of the box. For a tight fit, you can later install a sheet on top of the structure.
Mounting on the frame of the lower and upper rollers.
Installation of the frame on guides with pre-fixation.
Checking the operation of the gate. They need to be opened and closed several times.
Formation of a web from sheets of steel.
Counterweight adjustment.

Only then can you start priming and painting. For security, it is recommended to put a lock at the bottom.

In the overview video, you can see an example of the manufacture of such a design:

The garage becomes an integral part of any home or cottage, since almost every family has a car and very often there is more than one. As you understand, a garage cannot exist without high-quality, reliable and convenient gates, so it is necessary to approach the choice of the design of future gates very carefully.

Types of lifting gates

Today, lifting gates have become commonplace and are very common. Their main advantage is the incredible functionality and comfort of use.

Due to their compactness, they are great for all types of garages and yards, can work in tight spaces and save you time and effort when opening. Today there are such types of lifting gates:

Lifting sectional

The main canvas consists of panels that are assembled into a single non-rigid structure and are able to bend as they rise and align into a rigid canvas when closed.

Sectional lifting gates

lifting and turning

The front panel is solid and absolutely not deformable. The rise of such a structure occurs along a curved path, the upper part deepens a little inside the garage, about thirty percent of the total height, and the lower part goes out, the remaining segment.

One or another variety should be selected taking into account your preferences and the characteristics of the garage itself, as well as the amount of free space near the entrance. Also consider the cost, as well as the complexity of self-assembly, since both of these parameters will differ for each type.

The most common type of garage door at the moment is the garage door lift-and-turn.

Further, in the article you will learn how to make a lifting gate with your own hands, but first you need to know the design of the overhead gate. They consist of a frame that is securely fixed in the garage opening, the door leaf itself and a mechanism that carries out movement.

The upper edge is fixed on two slats along which it moves on rollers approximately at a height of two-thirds from the lower edge, side rollers are fixed, which move along the side rivers. The entire system is set in motion by one or two drives, or in extreme cases this is a manual opening of the gate.

We collect the necessary materials and tools

Depending on the features and type, the amount and type of material will vary, but for the simplest gates that you can easily make with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

Wooden bars with a section of 120x80 and 100x100, for the box and ceiling, respectively.
Metal pins for fastening.
Corners for the frame and rail, 35x35x4 and 40x40x4.
Channel bracket 80x45.
Spring, with an inside diameter of 30 millimeters.
Metal rod with a diameter of 8 millimeters.
Actually, the canvas itself.
If required then buy an actuator for automation.

Of the tools, you will need the simplest things that you can easily find in your garage, namely: a hammer, tape measure, pencil, a set of wrenches, a drill, a level, screwdrivers, metal and wood drills, a grinder and a welding machine.

Step by step instructions

The whole installation process is quite simple and will take place according to the following plan:

Frame manufacturing.
Installation of rollers.
Create a shield.
Installation of additional elements.

So, we begin the process with the design of the future structure. It is best to do this in advance so that in the process of work you do not have any hitches and difficulties with calculations, since your head will be busy with many different things to do, and the work will move very slowly, and the result may turn out to be of less quality.

Step 1: Measuring the opening

First of all, measure the garage opening, and then transfer it to paper. Based on the resulting values, you make a small sketch of the future design, if you don’t know this, it’s better to use any of the ready-made drawings that you like.

Measurements must be taken carefully during installation, because this kind of design should not have even the slightest skew.

Step 2: Main frame fixing

Once you know what gate you want to make, you can get to work. Homemade lifting gates are made on the basis of a wooden box, which is assembled into a single frame. Individual bars are twisted with metal corners or plastics using self-tapping screws, nails or bolts.

The resulting frame is fixed in the opening, the lower part should go deep into the floor to a depth of three to five centimeters. It is necessary to fix the frame with metal pins to each wall and to the floor. For reliability, for each linear meter it is necessary to use one pin with a length of thirty centimeters.

Watch video: We make the frame of the canvas

Step 3: Assembling the Canvas

The canvas is assembled very simply: a metal frame is made for it from the corners, and sewn up with a sheet of metal on top. To decorate the gate, it is fashionable to trim the sheet with various decorative panels. For insulation and soundproofing, foam, mineral wool and so on are used.

Step 4: We fix springs and mechanisms

It is best to choose springs from steel 65G.

We take the corners and make a support for the guide mechanism. We drill two holes on one of the shelves, through which the structure will be fixed to the supports.

On the other hand, we drill three holes with a diameter of one centimeter to secure the spring bracket. The bracket and spring are connected with an adjustment plate.

Thus, a ring is obtained on the top of the spring, and a thread on the bottom. From below, using the corners, we make a knot of hinges, with a hole of about one centimeter.

It is welded to the frame near the bottom rib and the middle of the hole designed for the lift system lever, at a distance of about twelve centimeters.

Step 5: We make guides, rails

The plate for adjusting the tension is welded onto the end of the lever. We make guides from the corners. They are welded in such a way that the internal size is five centimeters.

The frame is formed using a thick corner. With a canvas of 25-ke, it is best to use the 75th corner, and for the 50th canvas - a corner of a weave.

At the edges of the rails, clamps are attached that will hold the sash in the open and closed position and prevent the rollers from sliding into the rails.

We fix the rail with bolts to the wall, accurately measuring the level, it is best to do this by opening the gate halfway so that the rollers are in the middle of both guides.

Step 6: Final stage

After all installation work is completed, the entire system must be painted so that the metal does not succumb to corrosion and does not deteriorate too quickly. Hard-to-reach places, and places adjacent to walls and other surfaces should be painted even before installation. After that, after letting the structure dry, you can begin to use it.

We make automation

Having made lifting gates with your own hands, you should think about automating them, since it is not always convenient to constantly run and open them. For example, in winter or when it's pouring rain, you don't really want to go out and fiddle with locks and stuff. It is best to do this while sitting in the car or only when leaving the house.

It is very simple to automate swing or folding gates, you only need to purchase a suitable drive and install it according to the instructions that come with the kit.

All drawings must be present there and the drawings will show you clearly how to install. The mechanism for swing gates depends on the method of installation and can be of the following varieties:

Installation is carried out on the door leaf.
Mounted on rails.
The drive is installed on the side racks.

Which one is more suitable for you, you need to decide on your own, as it will depend on the design features, the weight of the gate, your preferences and other factors.

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Folding overhead gate drawings step by step instructions. How to make a do-it-yourself up-and-over garage door? Manufacturing steps, drawings and dimensions

Which model to choose?

lifting and turning

How to make a design

Canvas installation

Overhead sectional doors

Installation scheme

Do-it-yourself lifting gates

Communities › DIY › Blog › Lifting garage doors.

Types of lifting gates

Doors of lifting sectional type

Up-and-over doors

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages

Flaws

Design features

What to buy?

DIY gate

Video - Installation of sectional doors

Video - Lifting gates inside view

Video - Guides for lifting garage doors, part 1

Video - Guides for lifting garage doors, part 2

Video - Lifting gate frame, part 3

Video - Wheels for lifting gates, part 4

Video - DIY lifting garage doors

Do-it-yourself lifting gates to the garage: how to do it better

Types of lifting gates, their advantages and disadvantages

How do overhead doors work

How to make your own overhead garage door

What are the advantages of overhead sectional doors?

Sectional door device

We build overhead sectional doors with our own hands

Option of sections and guides for makeshift overhead sectional doors

Operator for garage up-and-over sectional doors

Conclusion

Types of structures

Garage door installation technology

Lift-and-turn design features

Gates of lifting sectional type

Do-it-yourself lifting garage doors

Advantages and disadvantages of the lifting structure

The device and scheme of operation of folding garage doors

Lifting garage door drawing

What is required for the manufacture

Tools

Step by step manufacturing instructions

How and what to insulate

Exploitation

Video: homemade folding garage doors

Video: lift-and-swivel design

Advantages, disadvantages and complexity of self-creation of up-and-over doors

How is the design?

What do you need to make your own?

The sequence of work on creating a lifting garage door with your own hands

Gate guide

Gate bearings

Sheathing with profiled sheet

Gate block system

Garage door insulation

Lifting counterweights

Outside view UPD

The gate is working for the second year (UPD from)

Do-it-yourself garage lifting gates photos, drawings, and descriptions

A few more garage door options - video

Fabrication scheme analysis

Required Consumables

Work sequence

Types of lifting gates

We collect the necessary materials and tools

Step by step instructions

We make automation

We recommend reading

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