Petunia room care. Growing petunia as a houseplant

I have always envied those who grow flowers in the country. But we don't have a cottage. When my husband and I moved into my grandmother's apartment with a large balcony, I immediately began to plan a flower garden in boxes and pots. And in 6 years she created her own oasis. It is cold here in winter, and flowers cannot overwinter on the balcony. Some of them I bring to the apartment. And annuals just sow every spring.

Everything worked out for me. And only petunias were frail, bloomed poorly, and even disappeared. Already wanted to give up trying to grow them in containers. But then I caught my eye the magazine "Garden for the soul and good rest", number 7 for 2012. And there I found an interesting story by Nadezhda Shcherbinina about her experience of growing petunias all year round.

It turned out that growing capricious beauties from cuttings allows the author of the story to have flowering petunias at any time of the year. And I decided to study her experience and try to do the same.

I needed cuttings from beautiful flowering petunias. It was the end of July. I went to the nearest holiday village and on one of the plots I saw excellent petunias of two varieties.

I went to the owner of the site, apologized and told everything. The hostess gladly allowed me to take the cuttings. And she decided to try it herself. Prior to that, she bought ready-made seedlings at the garden center. I took 3-4 cuttings from each of the two varieties. Rooted them at home under banks, and later planted them in small pots.

From the end of October, it illuminated almost the entire winter. In February, I transplanted into a large dish. In April, I cut cuttings from these bushes and rooted them.

As soon as the plants began to grow, I sent them to the balcony. Several specimens grew in large containers, and I did not touch them until the fall. Just fed and watered.

Large pots cannot be placed in balcony boxes.

Adult petunia bushes can be preserved until spring if they are moved to a bright and frost-free room. It should be light, humid enough, optimal t = 10-15 ° C (but less will do, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C). Suitable conditions are on closed verandas, insulated or southern loggias, on window sills of entrances.

Petunia bushes are dug up, transplanted into pots and brought into the room. You need to have time to do this before frost, that is, in September-November. Dry leaves, damaged, rotten branches are cut off from the plant. A cardinal haircut is also practiced: all branches are cut to 10-15 cm.

A petunia bush can overwinter on a cold windowsill

The main conditions for caring for petunia bushes in winter:

• minimal watering (up to 2-3 times a month);
• lack of fertilizers;
• high air humidity;
• temperature 10-15°C;
• good lighting.

In such conditions, petunias safely survive the winter and bloom in mid-February! Then more frequent watering and fertilizing can be “introduced” into the diet.

A petunia bush that has survived the winter is planted in open ground or in balcony containers. Or they act differently: they propagate the petunia by cuttings and grow young petunia plants. The latter option is more common among flower growers. It is believed (and not unreasonably!) that young petunias bloom better than sophomores.

February flowering petunias of the second year of life

How are cuttings of petunias carried out?

In the spring, cuttings of 5-10 cm are cut from the overwintered petunia bush - green, not lignified. The lower leaves on the handle are cut off so that a bare stem 1-3 cm long remains at the base. It is important that there is at least 1 pair of internodes in this area. 2-3 leaves should remain at the top of the cutting. If they are large, then their plates are cut across half - to reduce the evaporation of moisture.

Petunia cuttings are planted in loose soil, preferably with baking powder. Can be used for rooting pure vermiculite or peat

The bare part of the stem is deepened into moist, loose soil.

The leaves of the cuttings can be cut in half to reduce moisture loss through the leaf blades.

A vapor barrier is arranged on top to keep high humidity around the cuttings. For example, cover the planting container with a plastic cup, glass jar or glass. Every day, the "greenhouse" is aired - to prevent the appearance of mold, rot, black legs on the handle.

For ventilation, holes are made in the bottom of the plastic cup - "greenhouse"

After about 10-14 days, young shoots will appear in the axils of the cuttings - this means that rooting has taken place! The greenhouse is removed, the cuttings continue to grow in the same way as petunia seedlings: watered, fertilized, sprayed. Above 5-6 leaves, young plants are pinched for tillering.

After 2 weeks, new shoots appear in the leaf axils of petunia cuttings.

How to cut a petunia is described in

In March-April (depending on the region), when stable positive temperatures of 10-12 ° C are established, rooted cuttings are planted for permanent residence - in open ground or in balcony containers.

How to save surfinia for next year. How to save surfinia until next year

Fragrant ampelous plants, strewn with cascades of flowers, are the dream of many gardeners and owners of loggias and balconies. Often, flower growers who once bought hanging planters have a desire to grow surfinia in a pot left over from last season. How to do it professionally, says Yaroslavl plant collector Igor ARTEMCHIK.

Surfinia is a petunia hybrid that first appeared in Japan and quickly spread throughout all countries, including Russia.

Today, without this plant, it is impossible to imagine either a garden or an urban landscape. Surfinia grows quickly, its hanging shoots can grow up to two meters in length! Flowering is so plentiful that leaves are often not visible under the waterfall of its flowers. Surfinia petunias are resistant to their relatives to bad weather and strong winds. Of course, each time spending a tidy sum - about 300 rubles - for a ready-made hanging planter, often with plants that have outgrown the volume allotted to them, is simply unreasonable, while a rooted cutting of the same surfinia costs only 30 to 70 rubles. In addition, manufacturers, in order to achieve the visibility of the volume of the flower in a shorter time and, consequently, earlier sales, use a little trick by planting three to five plants in a pot.

It is clear that if there is less than one liter of soil per plant in a pot, then it will begin to starve very soon. If you decide to transplant, a plant with a large amount of green mass may lose its decorative effect, as it is more sensitive to such an operation compared to young planting material .
I recommend growing your own surfinias in hanging planters. To prepare the substrate, I usually use 70% high-moor peat, 20% well-rotted humus and 10% agroperlite, which can be replaced with vermiculite. Everything should be thoroughly mixed. After the mixture is prepared, you need to fill the pot with it, moisten it and plant the rooted stalk in the very center. The growing process can be accelerated by placing the pots in the greenhouse. At first, it may seem that the plant is slowing down in growth, as if standing still. Do not be afraid - it's just that the root system is developing at this time, and believe me, when it reaches its optimal state, after about 10-14 days, surfinia will begin to grow very quickly.

In order for the growth of ampelous surfinia to proceed more evenly, do not forget about the constant pinching of the tops of the shoot.

If you do this, then in a few days new shoots will grow from the axils of the leaves, which should be pinched again after 2-3 internodes have developed on them. Repeat the procedure 2-4 more times, and after 30-40 days you will get a plant, not inferior in decorativeness to store-bought ones. But, unlike the latter, this decorativeness will be provided not by imitation of abundant flowering, but thanks to a really strong plant that will feel great and delight you with its beauty until late autumn.

By transplanting

For transplantation, mother plants are used, that is, an adult petunia bush, which is left until spring, followed by cuttings. To do this, the bush is transplanted into a pot-type container in late September or early October. At the same time, they take into account that plantings should have time to take root before the onset of cold weather.

An important condition for transplanting a mother liquor into a pot is the selection of a container. The pot is chosen taking into account the size of an adult plant and the volume of its root system.

Information! Petunias are characterized by the growth of lateral root appendages, so small containers for transplantation are not suitable.

After transplantation, dry or damaged parts are removed from the mother liquor, leaving only 10 centimeters from the entire stem. After that, the mother liquor must be moved to a place where it is dry and cool.

With the help of cuttings

Gardeners call cuttings, which do not depend on the time of year, the advantage of petunias. Experts recommend carrying out a planned cutting procedure in the fall, at which time the flower is completely ready for reproduction:

Cuttings are carried out, following the sequence of actions:

1. Cut off the upper branches, on which there are four or six leaves.
2. The flower is cut from the top.
3. Then cut off the bottom sheets.
4. A cut of the stem is released into a root former or root growth stimulator (for the same purpose, a solution of manganese or crushed activated carbon is used - a similar procedure disinfects the plant and promotes its rapid development).
5. Then the cutting is placed in the soil mixture, for which different soils are used.
6. Plants are watered, lightly tamped the ground.
7. Cover with a transparent lid or film.

Creating a greenhouse effect with additional shelter helps shoots to take root faster due to constant moisture.

Petunia on the windowsill. Petunia - growing seedlings

Petunia attracts with a variety of varieties, hybrids and ease of cultivation. If you bought pelleted seeds, you can sow the petunia in peat tablets. Ordinary seeds are most conveniently sown in the snow. Small petunia seeds are clearly visible on the snow, so it is easier to evenly distribute them over the surface. See for yourself by sowing petunias in the snow with us!

It is not difficult to grow petunia seedlings, for success you need to observe only a few conditions: well-chosen soil, sufficient lighting and a temperature of + 20 ... + 25 ° С.

soil for petunias

The soil should be loose, moisture-intensive and fertile enough. If you are using ready-made soil, add some washed sand to it (about 1 part sand to 5-6 parts soil).

You can prepare your own mixture by mixing equal parts of humus, peat sod land and washed sand for this. A simpler composition is also suitable: peat, garden soil and sand (2: 1: 1). Sift the mixture and be sure to steam in a double boiler or colander for 1 hour. This will protect the petunia seedlings from diseases and weeds.

When to sow petunias?

If you are growing petunia seedlings on a windowsill, you need to sow no earlier than mid-March, when the day is already long enough. Do you have the opportunity to illuminate the seedlings with a special lamp? - you can sow petunias at the end of February. The temperature for successful seed germination is +25°C.

If you bought coated seeds, you can. Ordinary petunia seeds are best sown in the snow. Small petunia seeds are clearly visible on the snow, so it is easier to evenly distribute them over the surface.

Sowing petunia

Pour the prepared soil mixture into the bowl, lightly compact it by tapping and level the surface. Spread snow on the soil surface with a layer of 1-1.5 cm (1) , compact it (2) .

Gently spread the petunia seeds over the surface of the snow. First, shake the seeds off a sheet of paper in small portions. Then lightly loosen the snow with a toothpick in those places where the petunia has been sown too densely, and distribute some of the seeds to free places (3) .

When the snow melts, the seeds will be slightly drawn into the soil. It is not necessary to sprinkle the crops with earth - the petunia sprouts in the light. Place the bowl in a bright, warm place. If it is cold on the windowsill, you can identify it under a table lamp and cover it with glass (4).

In a week, petunia shoots will appear. From now on, they need to be ventilated at least once a day (preferably twice).

To do this, remove the lid, wipe off the condensate from it and leave the crops open for 10-15 minutes. The exact time doesn't really matter. Nothing bad will happen if you cover the crops right away (for example, being late for work). You can ventilate the crops for an hour if you have other things to do at this time. It is important not to forget to do this every day.

At first, petunia seedlings develop very slowly, their strength is spent on building up the root system. If the seedlings are too thick in places, thin them out with tweezers.

When the petunia leaves touch the glass, remove it, but continue to carefully monitor soil moisture. Petunia is demanding on watering. Overdrying will kill your plants. You can moisten from a pallet or by watering "under the root", the main thing is that there are no drops left on the leaves.

As soon as the petunia seedlings grow up so that they can be held with your fingers, put them in pots or cassettes, carefully loosening the thin roots with a spatula or toothpick (5) . If the roots are long, pinch them so that they can be freely distributed in the soil when planting. Water carefully so that the soil settles (6) .

To prevent the plants from stretching, place the grown petunia in a cooler place. A month after picking, it can be taken out to a glazed balcony, veranda or greenhouse (7).

Petunia varieties and hybrids with strong shoot growth need pinching. When the petunia plants reach 5-7 cm, for better tillering of the plants, pinch the shoots over the 4-5 leaf (8) .

A new shoot grows from the axil of each leaf, and the petunia blooms more profusely (9) .

In early June, seedlings are ready for planting in a flowerpot, balcony box or flower bed (10).

Spring is the time when preparations for the summer flower season are in full swing. And many flower growers are again thinking about which flowers to choose for planting. One of the most popular plants for growing in garden or indoor conditions is petunia care and cultivation at home is not difficult, and the result will not be long in coming.

plant history

Petunia (Petunia) or Petunia is a flower from the Solanaceae family, from the genus of semi-shrub perennial plants. The form of an adult plant is bushy, reaches a height of 15 to 70 cm. The stems are straight, densely branched. The leaves are green or dark green in tone, oval in shape, uniform, their length is 5-12 cm.

Funnel-shaped flowers, solitary, axillary or terminal. They are located on short peduncles. The color is the most diverse - from light pink to purple, from blue to purple and white. There are flowers with all sorts of decorative features: with halos, veins, borders, stars.

Interesting! Recently, work has been underway to breed yellow and orange petunias. To do this, use the rose genes responsible for the production of yellow pigment.

In nature, petunia reproduces by seeds that are in a bivalve box. They are very small 0.6x0.7 mm. In one fruit box, there are about 100 seeds. Petunia grows in South America (Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina, Paraguay, Bolivia).

The naturalist Jean-Baptiste Lamarck was the first to pay attention to this flower in 1793. He discovered it near Montevideo in Uruguay and assigned it to the Tobacco species, naming it Nicotiana axilliaris. After 10 years, the French botanist Laurent de Antoine de Jussieu isolated the plant into its own genus, which he named Petunia.

Interesting! In the 19th century, only one species of petunia with a wide range, P. parviflora, was known. In addition to South America, he met in Mexico, USA, India and Cuba. It was this species that laid the foundation for the genus Calibrachoa.

At the beginning of the 19th century, the first attempt was made in Europe to develop a hybrid variety of petunia. The selection was made in the botanical garden of Glasgow (Scotland). In 1834, the plant bloomed for the first time, which was the beginning of the selection and gardening of petunias throughout the world.

Amazing beauty, simplicity of agricultural technology, adaptability to different soils and climates have put petunias among the favorite plants of gardeners and flower growers. Today, new varieties, hybrids and groups of this beautiful plant are being created.

Petunias are used to create flower beds, borders, decorate balconies, house facades, create floral arrangements and breed in apartments. New varieties of petunias take root perfectly in flowerpots, planters and pots.

Petunia photo

Reproduction of petunia

At home, petunia propagates in two ways - seeds and cuttings. Many flower growers grow seedlings of this flower on their own, but people who do not have such an opportunity can purchase it in markets and garden centers. An adult petunia plant is unpretentious, which cannot be said about seedlings. Its cultivation requires patience, care and knowledge of some nuances from the grower. Below are step-by-step actions that tell you how to properly grow a petunia at home with seeds and cuttings.

seeds

It is necessary to correctly determine the timing of planting seeds. Short daylight hours can adversely affect young shoots. The best time for sowing is the time after March 15th. The exact date can be determined independently, given that the petunia blooms 10-12 weeks after germination.

Preparing the soil and containers for planting is a very important point. Tanks don't have to be deep. Cassettes, boxes or rectangular oil jars work well. The prepared soil must be steamed, poured with boiling water or frozen to destroy possible pests and fungus.

Sowing seeds is carried out on moist soil. Seeds should not be covered with soil. If the seeds are placed in granules, they should be sprayed with water from a spray bottle for better germination. The seed container is covered with glass or polyethylene to create a greenhouse effect. After that, the containers are placed in a bright and very warm room.

You need to know! The more branches a young petunia has, the more flowers there will be on an adult plant.

When the first sprouts appear for 3–4 days, the temperature is reduced to 18–20 degrees, the containers with seedlings are transferred away from the battery. It is desirable to ventilate the greenhouse. You can start with 2 minutes, gradually increasing the time. When two or three true leaves appear, the seedlings dive into separate small pots.

After that, you can harden off the plants. To do this, the temperature is reduced by 10-15 degrees for a short time. Gradually, the petunia will get used to the conditions of constant maintenance with outdoor air temperature.

When the plant grows to 4-5 pairs of true leaves, pinching is carried out. This measure forms the appearance of an adult plant. In May, an adult petunia is planted in large pots, flowerpots, balcony boxes and flower beds.

cuttings

Another way to propagate petunias is cuttings. In summer, from the side shoots of a flowering healthy plant, cuttings are cut from 7 to 9 cm long, with 3-4 true leaves.

The blanks are planted in separate indoor pots, moisten the soil and cover with jars. They are exposed to light and keep the soil moist. However, condensation and excessive soil moisture should be avoided.

The optimum temperature for rooting is 22-23 degrees Celsius. When the petunia gives the first leaves, they are treated in the same way as with seedlings. Hardened, pinched and planted in a permanent place.

Growing seedlings in peat tablets

For beginner flower growers, growing seedlings is best done in peat tablets. In this case, there is no need to dive or feed the seedlings, transplanting to a permanent place is less painful, the root system is not damaged.

For planting petunias in tablets, seeds in the shell are used, since they are easier to lay out individually. Peat tablets are placed in a container, pre-soaked with water, then one petunia seed is placed in a small recess at the top of each tablet. The container is covered with glass to create a greenhouse.

Further actions are the same as with ordinary seedlings - airing, hardening, top dressing after transplantation, pinching and planting in the ground. Petunias grown in tablets are planted in the ground right in a peat lump. Most of all, this method is suitable for growing indoor petunias.

Petunia care at home

Caring for an adult petunia does not require special skills. Timely watering and top dressing, the right choice of a place for planting minimize the work of a grower. However, it is necessary to remember some nuances in the difference between caring for garden and potted crops. To date, methods are known for the care and cultivation of petunias at home, both as a houseplant and as a garden plant.

The soil

Petunia thrives well in fertile loamy or sandy soil. For seedlings, a mixture of earth, humus and sand is perfect. Before planting in the ground, areas with acidic soil should be treated with lime.

Potted varieties require more nutritious soil. It is better to prepare it from a mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat and sand. It will be acceptable to add slowly soluble mineral fertilizers to the soil mixture. And before planting the plant, a layer of drainage is laid on the bottom of the tank with a layer of up to 5 cm.

On a note! The volume of soil per plant is 5 liters. This means that two plants must be planted in pots of 10 liters, and no more than three in a box up to 1 meter long.

temperature and light

The air temperature in the room where petunia seedlings are grown should be at least 18–20 degrees. After planting in the ground, the optimum temperature for an adult plant will be 14–16 degrees Celsius. Petunias outdoors are planted in bright, open areas with plenty of sun.

With insufficient lighting and cold weather, it ceases to bloom. In an apartment or house, a petunia pot is placed on the southern and southwestern windows or loggias. If the plant begins to stretch, it is necessary to increase the lighting and reduce the temperature by a few degrees.

Watering

The plant is drought tolerant. It tolerates abundant watering well, but does not respond well to stagnant water. It is necessary to water the petunia under the root so as not to damage the delicate flowers and leaves. With a long absence of moisture, petunia may stop flowering.

top dressing

For the first few weeks, the petunia does not need to be fed. You can spray the seedlings with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This will protect the seedlings from infection by pests and diseases.

After transplanting into the ground, universal top dressing can be used to form a strong root. Petunias growing in flower beds and gardens need powerful fertilizers. After all, they are vulnerable to weather conditions and the external environment.

To create a strong plant, top dressing is carried out by adding potassium humate, urea or potassium. Later, complex additives and fertilizers are used for intensive growth and flowering. Fertilize plants in open ground should be no more than 1 time per week.

Particular attention in terms of feeding should be given to potted crops. Due to cramped conditions, the substrate in the containers is quickly depleted and becomes unusable. The frequency of fertilizing for petunias in pots and planters is at least 1-2 times a week.

Important! If the petunia does not bloom for a long time, create a “stressful” situation for it. Stop feeding and keep watering to a minimum. After that, the petunia bushes begin to bloom profusely.

pinching petunias

Potted petunias need regular shortening of young shoots. For the first time, pinching is done for seedlings when the appearance of the plant is formed. In the spring, pinching becomes mandatory for the overwintered plant. Further processing of the flower is carried out as needed.

plant life span

Petunia is considered a perennial plant. However, annual varieties are used in horticulture. From the moment of sowing to the first shoots, it takes from 5 to 7 days. The first true leaf appears on the 14-16th day. At the age of 28 days, the plant reaches the stage of 4-6 true leaves and is ready for transplanting. After another 30 days, the petunia gives the first buds.

The development of the bud occurs during the week, flowering lasts about 5 days. With proper care, petunia blooms from June until the first frost. If the plant was grown as an annual, then the withered bushes are completely removed from the soil.

But if you plan to save the flower for the next year, it must be cut and transplanted into a container of the appropriate volume. In winter, watering such a petunia consists in wetting an earthen clod as needed. With sufficient light, petunia can bloom a second time.

Indoor petunias go through a dormant period in winter. From mid-autumn to the end of winter, the petunia pot is transferred to a cool, bright room and watering is reduced to a minimum. In early spring, the plant is transferred to a warm place, the soil is renewed, fertilizing is carried out and normal watering is restored.

Diseases and pests

Petunia is unpretentious and rarely affected by pests and diseases with quality care. But any grower should be aware of the problems he may encounter when keeping this plant.

Fungal diseases of petunias:

• "blackleg";
• gray rot;
• white rot;
• wet rot;
• brown spotting;
• late blight.

If the stems of the plant are strewn with black, gray or white spots, get wet, wither and rot, then most likely it is affected by a fungus. The reason for this is high humidity, high temperature, lack of light or dense sowing.

Increased soil acidity and oversaturation with nitrogen fertilizers also adversely affect plant health. First of all, prevention will help to avoid trouble.

You should not thicken the crops, use the land from the garden or greenhouse without prior steam treatment, do not be zealous with nitrogen fertilizers and regularly remove the affected parts of the plant.

Important! Petunia is afraid of the rain. Flower petals in heavy rain can be severely damaged, which will give them a sloppy look. In prolonged rainy weather, the flowering of petunias may stop altogether.

Bacterial and viral diseases of petunias:

1. Leaf galls.
2. Cucumber mosaic virus.
3. Tobacco mosaic virus.
4. Y and X potato viruses;
5. Tomato aspermia virus.
6. Tobacco necrosis virus.

These diseases are rare, but can spread rapidly from plant to plant or be transmitted through seeds. When a petunia is affected by viruses or bacteria, the appearance of the flower changes. Spots appear on the leaves, their shape and appearance change. The flowering of the plant sharply decreases or stops, the flowers become small and spotty. Treatment consists in the immediate destruction of the diseased plant.

Petunia pests:

• whitefly;
• thrips;
• spider mites;
• slugs.

Petunia is vulnerable to pests when it is in a seedling state. Signs of disease are wilting and yellowing of the leaves, the presence of pests on the stems and leaves. The fight is carried out with the help of various chemicals.

Varieties and types of petunias

According to the latest estimates of flower growers, the number of varieties of petunia has more than five hundred copies. In this variety it is easy to get lost even for a knowledgeable person. To describe all the varieties and types of this flower, to note the advantages and disadvantages of one article is not enough. Therefore, we note the main points. All petunias are divided by type, flower shape and color.

cascading petunias used to create compositions on balconies, loggias and gazebos. This species produces numerous long shoots that grow in different directions. The series is presented in a variety of shades and is suitable for a temperate continental climate. The most popular varieties are Ramblin, Typhoon and Rose.

You need to know! Calibrachoa and petunia were considered the same flower until 1990, when it was proved that they have a different set of chromosomes. Calibrachoa varieties are still sold in garden centers under the names "ampel petunia" or "surfinia". Be careful! The care of these plants varies.

Ampelous petunias planted in pots, planters, boxes and containers. They decorate gazebos, trees, hanging flowerpots. The peculiarity of this species is in long shoots, descending only down, due to which beautiful flower waterfalls are formed. Also, ampelous varieties can be planted on alpine hills or on the banks of artificial reservoirs. The best varieties are "Surfinia", "Wave of Luck", "Pearl Surf", "Waterfall".

bush petunia tolerates care and cultivation at home. This species is distinguished by its compact form, a variety of color shades and decorative patterns. The formation of the form is arbitrary and depends on the frequency of pinching the shoots.

Bush petunia grows equally well in an apartment and in a summer cottage, on a balcony and a flower bed. Popular subgroups: "Milliflora", "Multiflora", "Grandiflora". Varieties that deserve attention are Grandiflora Triumph, the Fantasy, Storm, and Parade series.

In conclusion, it is worth noting the completely new varieties of petunias, bred recently.

1. Petunia Picobella is a cold-resistant, semi-ampel plant that blooms profusely with small flowers.
2. Petunia Limbaugh is interesting with a new shade of burgundy. The Duve and Plyushch series are distinguished by durability and increased resistance to cold.

Interesting! In 1921, asteroid number 968 was discovered, which was given the name "Petunia".

Petunia is a magnificent plant, easy to care for and grow in an apartment, in the country and in the garden. Both an experienced professional and a novice amateur grower will cope with it. It is able to delight with its bright colors for a long time, bring practical benefits and deliver aesthetic pleasure.

1. Growing temperature: during the growing season keep petunia at a temperature of 18 to 25 ° C, in winter it is desirable to place in a cool place with a temperature of about 13 - 15 ° C.

2. Lighting: A brightly lit location that is shaded from direct sunlight during the spring and summer during daylight hours. Plants can be sunbathed for 4 hours daily for flowering to occur. When grown in partial shade, flowering will be less abundant.

3. Watering and humidity: well-settled water at room temperature, in spring and summer water the petunia abundantly, drying the top layer of the substrate between waterings, in winter they simply protect the soil from complete drying, greatly reducing the frequency of watering, it is desirable to increase air humidity.

4. pruning: regular pinching of young shoots, forming pruning after flowering, timely removal of fading flowers to form new buds.

5. Priming: neutral to slightly acidic soil, nutritious and well-drained soil with a loose texture.

6. top dressing: feed the petunia with phosphorus - potassium or organic top dressing during spring and summer every 2 weeks. In winter, at low temperatures, top dressing is not carried out.

7. reproduction: by sowing seeds at the end of winter or in spring, by stem cuttings in spring and summer.

Botanical name: Petunia.

Petunia domestic - family. Solanaceae.

Origin. Petunias are native to South America.

2.Description

Petunias are beautiful perennial flowering herbaceous plants.

stems erect, in ampelous species hanging down in a stunning cascade.

Leaves oval, sessile, 5-7 cm long.

flowers very large - up to 10 cm in diameter, funnel-shaped, with 5 fused petals, very diverse colors, including two-tone ones. At present, cultivars with yellow flowers have been obtained. In many varieties, the flowers have a delicate, pleasant aroma, which intensifies at night. The buds are formed and open sequentially - from the base of the shoots to their tops.

Height. Varies depending on variety from 15 cm to 40 cm. In ampelous petunias, the length of the shoots reaches 60 - 70 cm.

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3. Reproduction of petunia - growing from seeds, cuttings

seeds sown spring in loose nutrient soil. You can sow even at the end of winter, but the seedlings will lack light and become elongated and ugly.

Can be used for sowing hand-picked seeds. Seed collection is carried out in calm and fine weather.

Ripened seeds are located in dried, brownish seed pods that open easily when touched.

good enough germination planting material saves about 4 years- then it decreases sharply.

Remember that plants grown from their own seeds often do not inherit the attractive varietal traits of their mother bushes.

6. Diseases and pests

• Unfortunately, petunia, in violation of agricultural technology, may suffer from the appearance fungal diseases- for example from powdery mildew and gray rot.
• Blackleg often appears on seedlings when kept in conditions of high humidity and insufficient ventilation of crops.
• Sometimes with too dense cultivation and high humidity, plants get sick late blight.
• Chlorosis appear when watering with unsettled tap water - while the leaf blades turn yellow, and the veins remain green.

• Direct sunlight on leaf blades with water droplets can lead to the appearance of sunburn.
• Growing in pots that are too large results in to acidification of excess soil not mastered by the root system.
• Irrigation with cold water will lead to rotting of the root system.
• Rot will also appear with insufficient drainage and too abundant and frequent watering, especially in the cold season.

From pests Plants may be susceptible to spider mites. Keep the humidity high enough to avoid these pests.

The flower was to the taste of the whitefly, aphids and thrips. When grown outdoors, plants can be chosen by slugs and snails.

Insects - pests

insect name	Signs of infection	Control measures
	Small bright dots on leaf blades, yellowing and falling leaves. Disturbed white, small butterflies take off from the surface of the leaves	Chemicals: Zeta, Rovikurt, INTA-VIR, Fufanol and even Karbofos, Aktellik, Aktara, Confidor, Commander, Tanrek. Folk remedies: soap solution, garlic solution, yarrow and tobacco infusion, dandelion infusion, sticky traps for adult insects
	Inconspicuous cobwebs on the leaves, yellowing and falling of foliage with extensive damage. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down.	Folk ways. Plants can be washed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation with an ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemicals based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Aktellik.
	Sticky droplets appear on the leaf blades, leaf blades curl and deform, tender buds and young leaves wither. On the tops of the shoots, buds or the underside of the leaf plates, insect colonies can be seen. The flowers of an aphid-infested plant may become misshapen.	Folk ways: nettle infusion, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, tobacco and dandelion infusion, onion, marigold, yarrow, tansy, dusting with virgin ash. Chemicals: Sulfur powders, treatment with green potassium soap of green mass without getting into the ground, Decis, Aktellik, Fitoverm.
	The appearance of yellow spots on the leaf plates, small brown dots can be observed on the underside of the leaves. When spreading, pests cause the leaves to turn yellow, dry and fall off.	Folk ways. Increase the humidity of the air, wipe the surface of the leaves with soapy water to reduce the number of pests. Preparations based on pyrethrum - 2-fold treatment with an interval of 7-10 days, spraying with tobacco infusion, infusion of yarrow or Persian chamomile, decoction of cyclamen tubers. Chemicals: dusting with sulfur powders, the use of anabasin - sulfate in a soapy solution.
Snails, slugs	Through holes on the leaf blades, traces of mucus on the surface of the leaves.	Folk ways: manual collection of harmful insects, dusting the leaves of plants with mustard and hot pepper, wood ash mixed with baking soda, tobacco dust. Chemicals: superphosphate granules, copper preparations, Thunderstorm, Slug-eater, Anti-slug, Meta.

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7.Destination

Spectacular ornamental plant, which is used in landscaping parks, squares. Ideal for growing on balconies and terraces.

Ampel species very attractive in hanging baskets. A bright beauty - petunia will serve as a decoration for any flower garden or flower bed in the garden, and the long and abundant flowering rightly made it very popular with flower growers.



8.Note

All parts of the plant poisonous. Keep it away from children and pets.




Hydroponics.

9. Varieties of petunias:

The classification of petunias is quite complex and varied. For example, depending on the type of plant, they are divided into bush, cascading and ampelous. Bushes form low bushes up to 70 cm, ampelous ones form long drooping shoots and are grown in hanging pots, cascading ones have shorter and thicker, curly stems and can be grown not only in a hanging basket, but also around a support.

According to the type and size of flowers, there are:

Petunias large-flowered- grandiflora - are distinguished by a wide variety of colors and, of course, by a large diameter of flowers, plants form medium-sized bushes. Small-flowered or millifora - differ in the small size of funnel-shaped flowers and their very abundant formation, they form compact bushes. Terry- plants with more petals than simple varieties. fringed varieties - petunias fimbriata - flower petals have lush, corrugated, torn edges. Frillitunia - plants with large flowers, the edges of the petals of which are wavy curved. The most abundantly flowering plants received the corresponding name - petunias. many-flowered or multiflora. picoti- plants that form flowers with an attractive thin white border around the edge of the petals. Supertunia- varieties with an ampel type of growth, with long drooping shoots, abundantly covered with flowers.

9.1. Large-flowered petunia - Petunia Grandiflora



9.2. Petunia hybrid - Petunia hybrida

A small herbaceous annual plant up to 30 cm high with green, sessile, ovate leaves that emit an unpleasant odor when damaged. The leaves can be either opposite or alternate. The flowers appear throughout the summer months and remain on the plants until frost. The hues of the funnel-shaped flowers range from purple, purple, red, pink, blue, yellow or white. There are plants with a two-tone color of the buds.



9.3. Petunia "Night Sky" - Petunia "Night Sky"

Incredibly beautiful spray petunias up to 25 cm high with delicate pubescent shoots and oval, light green, sessile leaves. The main varietal feature is the color of small funnel-shaped flowers - when white or pink specks of various sizes are randomly scattered over the main dark blue or lavender tone, resembling stars in the sky. The color of each flower is unique.



9.4. Petunia "Easy Wave" - ​​Petunia "Easy Wave"

Compact plants up to 25 cm high with decumbent stems, often used as ground cover. The flowers are simple, funnel-shaped, simple, with velvety petals. Flower colors include white, purple, dark veined lilac, burgundy, red, pink, yellow, blue tones.



9.5. Petunia Tidal - Petunia Tidal

Tall herbaceous plants belonging to the large-flowered type. They grow quickly and have erect stems up to 90 cm high, on which sessile green leaves and simple funnel-shaped flowers are located. Flowering is very abundant in shades of cherry, hot pink, purple, white.



9.6. Petunia Sophistica - Petunia Sophistica

Small hybrid petunias up to 35 cm high with large, green, sessile leaves and simple funnel-shaped flowers. A distinctive feature of the plants of this collection is the unusual color of flowers - they can have pink, lilac, maroon, almost black and light green shades.



9.7. Petunia Dreams - Petunia Dreams

Small bushy petunias up to 40 cm high with abundantly branching stems, small, oblong, green leaves. The flowers are large, reach a diameter of 10 cm, simple, funnel-shaped, in shades of white, pink, crimson, red, purple. Often there are plants with a white border around the edge of the petals - picoti.



9.8. Petunia Velvet - Petunia Velvet

This includes both supertunias - ampel-type plants with very long and flexible shoots, and bush petunias. Flowers can be single or double, the main feature of this line are delicate velvety petals.



9.9. Petunia Picobella - Petunia Picobella

Annual shrub small-flowered compact petunias with branched stems up to 25 cm high. Plants form small simple, funnel-shaped flowers in shades of white, lilac, blue, pink, crimson. Flowering is very abundant.



9.10. Petunia "Daddy" - Petunia Daddy

Large-flowered bush petunia up to 40 cm high with delicate green shoots and oblong leaves. The main feature of the variety are large funnel-shaped, simple flowers, often with a very pleasant aroma and painted in pink, purple or lilac tones. On the petals of the flowers there are thin, branching dark veins. Purple flowers have the strongest fragrance.



9.11. Petunia Ultra - Petunia Ultra

Large-flowered bush petunia with simple, funnel-shaped flowers with bicolor petals in white, raspberry and purple. The variety has a very early flowering.



9.12. Petunia Salmon - Petunia Salmon

Hybrid ampelnaya petunia with long, branching, drooping stems up to 1 m long and sessile, light green leaves with slight pubescence. It belongs to the large-flowered type - it has large funnel-shaped flowers of a pale pink hue.



9.13 Petunia Aladdin - Petunia Aladdin

Compact herbaceous annual plant up to 30 cm high with abundant branching shoots. The flowers are simple, 7-8 cm in diameter, white, pink, purple, salmon, burgundy.



9.14. Petunia Pirouette - Petunia Pirouette

Compact bush petunias, fringed, terry, pikoti. The stems are strong, branched, with sessile, oval, green leaves. Flowers with a lot of ruffled petals with ragged edges are reminiscent of pompoms on children's hats.

With very profuse flowering. They are characterized by increased frost resistance and long flowering time. The flowers are very rich colors - white, red, purple, crimson.



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At the beginning of autumn, I look with regret at the petunias that continue to bloom, which will soon be destined to be in a humus heap. They are poorly adapted to autumn colds and frosts, so their lifespan is predetermined. Beautiful plants over the summer do not have time to fully develop their potential. Even in autumn, they retain a lot of vitality. Petunias can become mother plants from which strong stem cuttings can be cut. Or a flowering houseplant competing with exotic flowers.

WE TRANSFER PETUNIA TO THE HOUSE

In nature, petunia is a perennial plant that can be used in its cultivation and reproduction. To do this, in the fall, before cold snaps and frosts have yet begun (the petunias that fall under them often die), we select several specimens, free them from long shoots and cut off all spoiled leaves. The remaining bush should be compact and low. Not more than 15 cm tall. Better below.

Before you bring a petunia into the room, you need to carefully examine its leaves (especially their underside) so that the whitefly and the testicles laid by it do not get into the house. The end of summer and the beginning of autumn are the time of the mass presence of this pest on cultivated and weed plants, however, we often do not pay attention to the inconspicuous small whitefly. Until it ends up on our houseplants.

If a whitefly or its eggs are found on the leaves of a petunia, then urgent measures must be taken before bringing the plant pot into the house. The best place for him is a cold, bright window sill, a veranda, a glazed loggia (balcony), a bright basement, etc. We are not talking about specially equipped places and greenhouses, in which, with additional illumination and the required humidity, mother liquors are grown.

It seems that the petunia is at first thinking about how she will behave further. Sometimes it suddenly wakes up, gives new shoots and even blooms. Or stops growth, falling into hibernation until the end of winter. It is important to create conditions for petunias so that young shoots do not weaken the plant. No growth stimulants and fertilizers are used during this period. The exceptions are Zircon and Epin (only if necessary).

In March (sometimes from the end of February), the petunia container must be moved to the brightest place. It should be cool (not lower than +6°C). Set up watering and fertilizing. This mode allows the mother plant to grow so that in April it was possible to cut off full-fledged stem cuttings.

In winter, the condition of petunias sometimes deteriorates sharply. There are several reasons: either it is powdery mildew and its consequences, whitefly, etc. Often the plant loses strength in an insufficiently bright and warm room. Many troubles are associated with waterlogging of the soil. If the leaves dry up and fall off, and the stems turn black or dry out, then this is a clear sign: the petunia feels very bad. Normally, only partial yellowing of the leaves.

CUTTINGS AS A SIMPLE OPTION OF PETUNIA REPRODUCTION

The petunia is beautifully cut. Many times in the summer I stuck a broken flowering shoot into the soil, and it continued to live. This property is used by professionals and flower lovers, collecting "tribute" from mother liquors, in order to then propagate the variety they like. The cuttings are cut with and without a heel. The minimum cutting size is 2-3 pairs of leaves.
There are no special tricks when rooting cuttings. They are planted to a depth of about 1.5 - 2 cm in a container filled with loose fertile soil, covered with a jar and kept in the light. In order for the cuttings to lose less moisture, it is enough to leave just a couple of leaves. The lower pair of leaves should be completely removed, it is better to shorten the upper leaves by ½.
Care is reduced to watering and airing. Condensation must not be allowed to form. A convenient mini-greenhouse is obtained from the top of a transparent plastic bottle, in the lid of which holes are made with a red-hot nail or drill. High transparent plastic cups with holes at the bottom can also be used as caps. But spraying cuttings with water should be treated with caution. Often, excessive dampness, rot and mold appear from this procedure. Some amateur flower growers root cuttings of petunias in jars of water.

The temperature at which rooting occurs is about 22 - 23 ° C. Well, if there is a bottom heating. For example, a battery located close to the windowsill. The first leaves of young shoots appear very quickly. Without additional illumination or sunlight, they grow weak. Rooted cuttings are pinched, which causes further tillering. During the winter, the stalk, which began to root in August - September, turns into a beautiful flowering bush. It is looked after as a light-loving houseplant.

You can try another way to keep petunias in winter.

I picked it up quite by accident. It so happened that by August my petunia had grown into such huge bushes that they covered other flowers and took up too much space in the flower garden. I shortened them, and “put” a bouquet of tops into a flower pot with garden soil. I put the pot near the house and from time to time watered the “bouquet” from the watering can. Petunia quickly rose, began to grow and continued to bloom. In September, I put the pot on the glazed loggia. In winter, I sprayed the petunia several times with a highly diluted solution of cheap (!) Washing powder. It can be replaced with soda ash. I didn't want to use chemicals. This preventive measure made it possible to avoid powdery mildew, the raid of which often appears in the autumn-winter period and destroys petunias. I cut off most of the buds so as not to weaken the plant. Separate flowers remained "for beauty". It would be possible to leave all the flowers and buds, but for this it would be necessary to organize a stronger backlight.

In May, I shortened some of the extended shoots of the "bouquet", having received many fresh cuttings. The overgrown petunia (the former "bouquet") was divided into several parts and transplanted into a flower garden. Petunia grows quickly and does not like crowding, so it is better to plant its rooted cuttings "for growth".

CONCLUSION

In winter, petunia can be saved as a mother plant for further rooting of its cuttings. Grown from rooted cuttings (cutting is carried out in August - September), petunia becomes an elegant, beautifully flowering indoor plant, which can later be transplanted into a flower garden, flowerpot or hanging basket and cuttings of its shoots. The main problem associated with the health of petunias in the winter, I consider powdery mildew.

But this is already a consequence of some oversights in agricultural technology.

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Terry and ampelous petunias are especially well cut. Petunia, like pelargonium (geranium), after the end of the flowering period, you can cut off and transplant the plant you like with a clod of earth into a pot. It is not necessary to expect powerful growth and beautiful flowering from an old plant - in spring the petunia will bloom again, flowering will be early, but not as beautiful and plentiful as last year.

It is much more practical in August - September to cut petunia cuttings, root them, and then, at the very beginning of spring, cut new cuttings from these winter plants. Here they will give you strong and early blooming plants for spring planting in boxes in your garden or on the balcony. What is very important, they will inherit the properties of mother plants.

In winter, keep the plants in good light (preferably with additional illumination) in a cool place with a temperature of 12--14 ° C, watering moderately. In January, move the pot with the plant to a warmer, but equally bright place, shorten the stems by half, feed and start watering more often. After a couple of weeks, the growth of young shoots will begin. From February, they can be cut into cuttings. A cutting is a piece of a stem with 1 internodes. The lower cut is supposed to be made oblique and through the knot, the upper cut is straight. Work with a new razor. Pinch off the lower leaves, cut the middle leaves in half, save the upper ones. Leave a piece of the stem 1 cm above the upper leaves.

How to make a cutting?

The so-called mother plants are taken on cuttings. Cuttings with 3-5 leaves should be cut with sharp scissors from the mother liquor (if they have buds, be sure to pinch). Plant the cuttings in a flower pot with fertile, porous soil, on top of which pure river sand is poured with a layer of 3-4 cm. Planting depth - up to half-cut leaves. and immediately planted in a mini-greenhouse. If not, then in a box covered with glass or film on top so as not to lose moisture.

In summer this is enough, in early spring make sure that the roots are not cold from below, so that there is enough light.

What's important- Do not keep cuttings in direct sunlight. Keep the cuttings in a bright and warm place with shade from direct sun, water and spray twice a day. After a couple of weeks, the cuttings will begin to root, and then begin to ventilate them little by little. And after a month, when a good root lobe is formed, the package can be removed.

Further, petunia or surfinia are grown as ordinary flower seedlings - in a warm, bright place with regular watering and top dressing. To bush well - pinch over 4 leaves.

Petunias are classified as annual plants, actively grown in household plots. Long flowering bushes amaze with the richness of flowers. Violet, pink, red and white, they are scattered with picturesque pictures in the flowerbeds of city parks and private households.

Difference Between Surfinia Plant and Petunia Plant

There is a misconception that caring for a petunia at home is rather burdensome. But in fact, any beauty requires an investment of labor, otherwise the flowers will not please the eye. Petunia is grown according to certain rules and taking into account the recommendations and careful care it makes a rich decoration of the garden or yard.

Every urban and rural dweller knows Petunia, the plant needs no introduction. It was seen by everyone who has a garden, a flower bed near the entrance or an open balcony with flower pots installed. The flower gained popularity due to its unpretentiousness and ease of propagation by seeds at home. Seed material in the store is inexpensive, which is why the balconies and loggias of multi-storey buildings are blazing with a riot of colors.

In recent years, another equally popular flower has been replacing petunia from flowerbed areas - surfinia, which is a hybrid bred from petunias. Surfinia and petunia are related.

It is difficult to immediately identify the differences between the two plant species, but surfinia has taken on the good qualities of the breed, leaving some shortcomings in the past.

Surfinia has longer and stronger stems, it grows higher, the abundance of additional sprouts allows you to create a lush bush that looks like a large hat with a surface covered with picturesque flowers. By nature, surfinia branches fall down from hanging pots, this gives the effect of a flowing flower waterfall.

Features of reproduction of petunias

Petunias are sown when the length of the day has increased so much that the sprouts have enough light for development and growth. Illumination is important for the germination process, so the timing is adjusted depending on the surrounding circumstances:

• if the house has a southern location of windows, then the beginning of March is considered the optimal time;
• the northern location of the openings allows you to start sowing in early April or late March;
• in the case of installing artificial lighting, seedlings are grown from winter February.

Lack of sun or artificial light will cause the sprouts to stretch too much, and they will be weak and prone to disease. From such seedlings you will not get full-fledged beautiful bushes with an abundance of flowers.

Late planting will make sprouts strong and stable to various changes, but flowers on such bushes will appear later. The usual flowering period occurs 2.5–3 months after sowing the material, flowers develop until mid-October.

The laying of petunia seeds in peat tablets is also carried out in February, subject to additional lighting with lamps. If artificial lighting is not installed, then the February sprouts will bloom at the same time as those planted in March.

Soil preparation for seeds

Sowing is done in a shallow and wide container, which petunia seedlings love. Care and cultivation at home involves the treatment of wooden or plastic containers with antiseptics or disinfectants before planting.

The bottom is laid out with a drainage layer, fine gravel or crushed stone, expanded clay are taken as the material. The composition of the soil can be used differently, but among its main characteristics should be the following:

• neutrality;
• looseness;
• saturation with nutrients;
• hygroscopicity.

To prepare the soil, they take in equal proportions sheet or soddy soil, humus, fine sand and peat. If the earth is acidified, then it is mixed with a small amount of lime solution.

Care of the soil composition involves, after mixing, placing in the oven or microwave for calcination. The second method is treatment in boiling water to combat live pathogens.

A large screening layer is placed on the bottom of the box, a small one is placed on it, leaving a distance inside the box on the walls 3 cm lower from the edge. Ready-made land purchased in the pavilion is processed in the same way as it is prepared on its own.

Convenient, in terms of technology, and economical is considered seed germination method petunias in ready-made peat tablets. In such conditions, even hybrid varieties grown with problems give high germination and flowering. The loose peat structure, hygroscopic and permeable, takes roots and gives them the opportunity to fully develop.

Tablets are round plates wrapped in a thin mesh, in which there is a hole where the seed is placed; for growing petunias, products 3.5–5.0 cm in size are perfect, which will give the necessary space. Before use, the tablets are placed on trays and soaked in water for a couple of hours. If, after swelling, the tablets fed all the moisture, then it is added, the remaining water is removed.

Sowing petunia seeds

The fineness of the seeds does not allow them to be distributed evenly, so mixing with sand gives better results. Modern methods of seed production make it possible to produce seeds in the form of dragees in a shell of useful components.

Such seeds germinate better and sowing is facilitated by the fact that larger sizes compared to ordinary seeds allow them to withstand the required technological intervals when planting in the ground.

Moisten the dragee before planting drip method or from a pipette, soaking time is 4-5 minutes. The capsule is unwrapped with a toothpick and the seed is released with the fingers. The material is placed on the surface of the prepared soil and not closed, while maintaining an intermediate distance. For growing petunias, an optimal temperature and light regime is created, the temperature should be 24–26 ° C.

The first sprouts appear above the surface in 14–15 days, now the air temperature can be reduced to 20˚С during the day and 16˚С at night. Illumination during seed germination should be about 16 hours a day, therefore, in early spring, additional phytolamps are placed for supplementary illumination.

Sufficient illumination is an obligatory moment that you need to pay attention to, since flower buds are laid at this time, their number depends on the duration of the light.

It is easier to plant seeds in peat tablets, since a separate capsule is placed in one tablet, for this a toothpick is used. Each place where the seed is laid out is additionally moistened with a drop from a pipette. It is impossible to deepen the seed material into the soil, since germination occurs only in the light.

Growing petunias in greenhouse conditions

Greenhouses are considered the best growing medium for petunias. Growing from seeds in a greenhouse increases the germination and yield of flowers on the bush. If there is no specially built greenhouse, then make impromptu conditions that repeat it.

Containers with planted seed material are covered with film, glass, polycarbonate. The piece microclimate allows 100% survival of all crops of hybrid and capricious varieties.

The best place to install the container is where the air temperature is 24-26˚С and good lighting. In apartments, a window sill is perfect, in such a place the seedlings will not stretch out from a lack of light. If the room temperature is below 20 ° C, then the petunia may not sprout at all. Condensation accumulates on the inner surface of the transparent material in the greenhouse, if possible, the coating is turned over to the back, while delivering fresh air to the plants.

The time spent by seedlings in the open state is gradually increased from 2-3 minutes for the first time to several minutes a day after a series of openings.

This will help to avoid mold on the soil surface, which occurs from high humidity and causes black leg disease.

If after 10 days the sprouts did not appear on the surface of the soil, then there is no point in waiting for their appearance.

seedling care

The temperature is lowered after sprouts appear to avoid unnecessary stretching. Now the landing containers are located away from the heaters and placed closer to the window openings. To create the required humidity regime, a weak manganese acid solution, which is sprinkled with sprouts twice a day.

Plants placed in the conditions of peat tablets also require compliance with the prescribed humidity; for this, the tablets are sometimes moistened with water and not allowed to dry. To do this, moisture is poured into the tray, the tablets swell, while the excess water is drained so as not to overmoisten the soil, which leads to various pathogenic diseases.

Watering is done only along the inner walls, and spots with painful mold are sprinkled dry with sand, ash or perlite (the layer should be about 2 cm). To avoid mass infection, you need to quickly conduct unpicking sprouted seedlings. Seedlings are accustomed to outdoor conditions by gradually opening the cover, and when real leaves develop on the stems, the roof is completely removed.

Picking is done after the formation of 3 true leaves, which develop on the trunk after the first cotyledon leaves appear above the ground, paired with each other, which determine the varietal characteristics of the plant. The pick is carried out with sharp small scissors or just nails. Pinch off the central trunk to the level of developed 4–5 leaves. Several new branches will hatch and develop here and the bush is formed lush.

Spiked sprouts will initially temporarily stop growth, but this is normal, since roots are forming, and the aerial part will grow after a month and a half.

Topping carried out sometimes several times, this will affect the number of colors. When suitable weather is established, young seedlings are transferred to the garden or in decorative boxes for further growing petunias at home.

Transplanting young seedlings

Transplantation of crowded seedlings into separate containers is done after multiple sprouts create crowdedness in a common container. Individual cups will create the required comfort and space, the plant will grow strong and then transplanting into an open bed will be easier.

In separate cups, the shoots are deepened to the first true leaves, so that on the part that is underground, the root system develops and the risk of black leg disease decreases.

Development of the root system in seedlings

Opinions on the issue of pruning the central root were divided. Some believe that if you pinch it, then the lateral roots will grow and form a powerful clot of roots. Other experts argue that during transplants, the roots are already sufficiently injured, so this should not be done on purpose.

The shoots are carefully removed along with the root soil, while they are buried to the cotyledon leaves. If we talk about petunias grown under the conditions of a peat tablet, then picking is not required for such seedlings. The signal for transplanting seedlings is the fact of its germination through the thickness of the tablet. If the sprouts are not transplanted at this time, then the roots will dry out in the air, which will negatively affect the formation of the bush in future periods.

Feeding, watering and fertilizing seedlings

Transplanted seedlings from a peat tablet begin to be fed 14–15 days after picking, until this time they have enough useful substances obtained earlier from peat.

First, the leaves are sprayed every other day, while changing the order of the stimulant and mineral nitrogen complexes. In the future, nitrogenous fertilizers are introduced under the root, saltpeter, urea are used. If this is not done, then the growth of the bush stops, and the leaves brighten.

In the future, petunia is in need nutritional top dressing, the flower actively responds to fertilization every two weeks. It successfully acts on the flower and potash fertilizers, at home such complexes are most conveniently used in liquid form, they are diluted with water in accordance with the instructions on the package.

Watering is carried out in any way- through a pallet or a spray bottle. There are certain rules for creating humidity that should be followed:

• the use of a watering can for watering is excluded, waterlogging of the earth threatens the development of the “black leg” disease, in this case, rotting of the roots begins from the underground part, then the whole plant dies;
• drying also should not be allowed, without moisture, not a single plant can live;
• do not use chlorinated water directly from the water supply for irrigation, it is defended for a day before use, and a small amount of lemon juice is added before watering;
• irrigation water should be the same temperature as the soil.

Growing petunias at home or in the garden in the private sector is an interesting and rewarding activity. Despite some efforts to propagate by seeds, a flowering multi-colored carpet in the yard that adorns the exterior will be a well-deserved result of labor. Landscape designers successfully use the characteristics of hanging or bush petunias to design coziness and fantastic decoration of gardens, parks, courtyards and just loggias and balconies.