How to properly install a gutter. Installation of PVC gutters: step by step instructions with photos

A high-quality and reliably assembled drainage system from the roof of the house is the key to the durability of the entire building. After all, neither the walls of the building nor its foundation will suffer from storm drains. At the same time, masters often prefer to mount the system on their own. Therefore, in the material below, we will consider in detail how to install a drain with our own hands with preliminary calculations.

The installation of a drainage system must begin without fail with counting the number of components, and most importantly, with calculating the diameter of pipes and gutters. An incorrectly deduced diameter of the system will either not be able to divert the volume of water that will come off a certain roof, or will cope with the task with interest, but will cost the master unreasonably expensive.

So, with regard to the diameters of spillways and gutters, the following calculation principles are used here:

• For a roof with a total area of ​​slopes up to 50 m2, pipes with a cross section of 75 mm and gutters with a cross section of 100 mm are used;
• For a roof area from 50 m2 to 100 m2, pipes with a diameter of 87 mm and gutters with a cross section of 125 mm are used;
• For a roof whose area exceeds 100 m2, the use of pipes with a diameter of 100 mm and gutters with a diameter of 150 mm is relevant.

Important: if the roof is multi-gable or hip, then the section of the gutter and pipe is selected according to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe majority (wing) of the roof.

Determine the number of vertical pipes

Everything is extremely simple here. Thus, the installation of roof drains requires that for every 100 m2 of roof area there is one downpipe. Therefore, if our proposed roof has an area of ​​120 m2, then it will require two downpipes, which will be located at two corners of the house. As for the receiving funnels, they are purchased in the amount in which the number of vertical drains is determined. In our case, there will be 2 water intake funnels.

Now, in order to install gutters on the roof, it is necessary to calculate the number of vertical links (pipes) that will be required to construct two vertical receiving lines from the roof to the foundation. In this case, you need to determine the height of the house from the blind area to the cornice strip and subtract 30 cm from it (the length of the drain elbow). For example, the height of the house from one point to another will be 8 m. We subtract 30 cm from it and get 7.7 m. Moreover, the length of one link is most often 3 m, then we need 3 pipes for one vertical drain. That is, for our two proposed drains, you need to purchase 6 pipes.

We immediately determine the number of clamps for vertical lines. They are located at the following points:

• Between the pipe and the drain elbow;
• Between the joints of vertical pipes;
• Between the tide and the pipe.

In total, we get 5 clamps for one vertical line. For two - 10 clamps.

Determine the number of gutters

To calculate the number of gutters for the proposed gable roof, you need to determine the lengths of both cornices. In our case, they will be equal to 9 m each. And if we proceed from the fact that each gutter has a length of 3 m, then in our case we need 3 gutters per slope. Accordingly, 6 gutters for two roof slopes.

Important: if the roof is hipped and has 4 slopes, the number of gutters is calculated based on the lengths of all four cornices. At the same time, corner cornices are purchased in the number of corners on the roof. For a hip, this number will be 4.

As for the number of brackets, they are recommended to be placed at an equal distance from each other. In this case, the distance should be approximately 70-90 cm, but no more. In our case, with a cornice length of 9 m, we use 10 brackets per cornice. Accordingly, 20 brackets for two cornices.

Tip: the heavier the material of the drainage system, the smaller the distance between the hooks can be. Here you can reduce it to the level of 50-60 cm. Accordingly, their number per cornice length of 9 m will increase to 20 pieces.

Locks are selected in the amount in which the number of connections between the gutters is counted. In our case, this number is 4 (2 on each side of the roof).

Determine the number of knees

Proper installation of the drainage system with your own hands will not be complete if the master does not determine the number of knees for the system. Knees are purchased in 2 pieces. for one funnel. So, in our case, a total of 4 knees will be required. In this case, 2 low tides will also be required to design the discharge of water into the ground or storm sewers.

A larger number of knees is purchased if the facade of the house has a complex configuration and it is required to form its bypass. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the number of bends along the facade along the length of the vertical drain.

Important: it is necessary to mount the spillway communication even at the stage of arranging the crate for the roofing. In this case, it is desirable that the system be applied to the design drawing.

Installation work on the device of the spillway

If the reader is interested in how to make gutters for the roof with your own hands, and how to do all the work correctly, then below are detailed instructions for installing a water drainage system:

• Installation of drainage systems begins exclusively with the installation of brackets under the gutters. At the stage of mounting the hooks, it is necessary to form the slope angle of the gutters. The slope should be 2-3 mm per linear meter of runoff. When bending the hooks, it is necessary to number them in order to bend and fix them correctly in the future. Attach the holders to the cornice strip. The first and last brackets are fixed so that they recede 10-15 cm from the edge of the roofing edge.

Important: the hooks must be positioned so that the roof slope takes up about a third of the gutter.

• Now install the funnel. If there is a need to make a cutout in the gutter under it, then the place in the gutter is marked with a construction pencil. Then a groove is cut with a hacksaw. All metal burrs must be sanded, and the cut point must be painted over with a special polymer paint. Now the funnel is attached to the outer bend of the gutter and fixed on the inside with clamping clamps. A plug is installed on the edge of the drain chute. If the funnel is installed correctly, then all the water will go into it without a hitch.

Important: It is forbidden to cut the metal elements of the weir with an angle grinder. With strong heating, the polymer coating of the system is damaged. And this can lead to corrosion of the entire communication. Therefore, only a hacksaw for metal should be used for cutting when attaching the drain to the roof.

• The entire funnel structure, together with the gutters, is driven into the brackets with a slight pressure on them. The grooves must fit into the roundness of the bracket bend. The fastening of the gutter between each other is carried out using special locks. At the same time, a gap of about 2-3 mm is left between the drainage elements in order to lay a rubber gasket lubricated with a sealant. The locks snap into place, and the remnants of the sealant are removed. Through the installed storm drain, water will be sent at an angle to the receiving funnel and further down the pipe.

Important: all auxiliary elements (corners, plugs, funnels) are mounted before installing the main line of gutters.

• And finally, in the instruction entitled "how to install gutters on the roof" we proceed to the installation of vertical pipes. For their fixation, clamps are used, which are attached to the walls of the house with dowels.

Important: the distance between the clamps of the system should not be more than 2 meters. At the same time, the pipe itself should recede from the walls of the house by 40 cm. If the pipe is supposed to be cut, then it is performed with a hacksaw. Cutting the pipe from the narrow end is prohibited.

• A drain elbow is attached to the assembled vertical pipe using special rivets. The drain elbow should rise about 30 cm above the ground. This will be a properly assembled drainage system.

Important: the installation of a spillway for the roof of the house must be carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 degrees. For titanium-zinc systems, the temperature should generally be + 7- + 10 degrees. Otherwise, the communication material may become brittle and brittle from the cold.

Video: how to install a roof drainage system

But it is not enough just to properly install the drain on the roof. It is advisable to clean the system from fallen leaves and silt at the end of each season. To prevent falling leaves from falling into the weir, special protective gratings can be used on the gutters.

Methods for connecting elements depending on the material

The rules for installing gutters and other drainage elements require the use of various methods for connecting elements, depending on the type of material. So, the following methods are used:

• For plastic - the drain is fastened using cold welding, clips / rivets, rubber seals.
• For metal - clamps or seals.
• Copper system - soldering, riveting and clamps.

The risk of making mistakes and their consequences

It is worth remembering that if errors are made during the calculations and installation of the drain, the system may undergo such changes:

• Deflection of gutters under the pressure of effluents with an incorrect (increased) distance between the brackets and their further breakage.
• Ingress and splashing of water on the walls and foundation of the house when the drain elbow is too high from the ground.
• Leakage and cracking of vertical pipes if you installed them incorrectly.

Important: installing a roof drainage system is not an easy task. Therefore, if you still doubt your abilities, then it is better to invite professionals to install the drainage system. They do all the work not only qualitatively, but also quickly.

Drainage from the roof is a system that is mandatory in the construction of buildings. Its main duty is to collect and remove rain, melt water flowing from the roof slopes away from the foundation. Usually, the drainage system begins to be assembled during the construction of the roof structure before the assembly of the crate. Although situations often occur when the roof is already covered with roofing, and the drain has not been collected. An example is the replacement of an old drainage system with a new one.

Before moving on to the topic of the article, let's consider what the elements of the drain are, what materials they are made of today.

What is a drain

The system consists of two main elements:

1. Gutters (trays), which are mounted under the overhang of the eaves.
2. Pipes that are attached to the walls of the building in a vertical position.

An example of a roof gutter system

Additionally, the composition includes:

Gutter system material

More recently, the main raw material from which gutters were made was metal, more precisely, galvanized sheet. Even earlier, gutters were made from ordinary steel sheet, which was painted. The latter gradually went out of circulation. Galvanization is still used today, because the material has a presentable appearance, copes well with natural loads and has good technical characteristics.

Scientific and technological progress does not stand still, and today the question of what to make a drain from means the possibility of choosing from several materials. To pure galvanization, galvanized metal coated with a polymer composition and purely plastic are added. Consider their pros and cons.

Plastic

A big plus of plastic is that the material does not corrode when it comes into contact with water. Hence the long service life. Other advantages of the plastic drainage system include:

• the ability to operate under almost any temperature conditions;
• one hundred percent inertness to ultraviolet;
• presentable appearance, indicated by huge possibilities in terms of color design;
• lightness of construction.

The only thing that plastic products are afraid of is shock loads, under the influence of which they crack and become unusable.

About plastic brackets. It will not be possible to bend them, to give the necessary shape to the mount. In this regard, metal ones are better, they are easier to customize. Therefore, when installing plastic brackets, it is necessary to accurately install them on the frontal board, taking into account the landing site and the height of the roof overhang. True, today manufacturers offer adjustable products in which you can change the angle of inclination using a swivel. A good option, which proved that in the category of plastic brackets it is the most convenient.

Metal coated

According to their characteristics, in terms of service life, the products will not yield to plastic ones. But there is one serious drawback - the polymer layer itself. It is not strong enough and can be easily scratched or peeled off with little effort using a sharp tool. Therefore, it is important not to spoil the protective polymer coating during the installation of the gutter on the roof.

Metal gutter systems with polymer coating

There is no protective layer even on a meager area, you get a defect through which water begins to penetrate to the metal sheet. The consequence is metal corrosion, reduced service life.

Other options

It should be noted that on the market you can find exclusive water drainage systems made of copper or aluminum alloys, titanium and zinc. Firstly, the products are marked by long-term operation of the structure and increased reliability. Secondly, a design approach to solving the problem of decorating the facade of a house. But exclusive gutters are not cheap, so they are rarely purchased by the general mass of consumers.

Bracket types

This fastener on the market is represented by three varieties:

Ways to install gutters

In the section we will not talk about how to properly install gutters. Here we denote the situations that arise during the construction of this system. The first situation is installation when the rafters are installed, but the crate is not installed.

This is a simple, correct option. The brackets are attached to the rafter legs, usually on top of the upper plane, but it is possible from the side, from the bottom, bending the device to the required angle. Side fastening can be used if the thickness of the rafters is not less than 50 mm, the width is not less than 150 mm. Often, the installation is carried out on the first element of the crate at the eaves, which is also considered the correct approach to the construction of the drain.

An example of attaching brackets to rafter legs

If the roofing material has already been laid on the roof and fixed, then the methods for attaching the brackets are as follows::

Rules and stages of installation of the drainage system

Before you install the drain, you need to prepare everything. Buying a drainage system. What is included in it was described above. Now you need to decide on the number of each element.

The number of gutters is determined by the length of the slopes. They have a standard length of 3 m. For example, if the length of one slope along the eaves is 10 m, then you will have to buy 4 trays. The latter must be cut to the required size.

The number of vertical pipes depends on the height of the building, the distance of the drain from the ground and the length of the slopes.. Here are the following positions: the distance from the ground to the end of the drain is 25 cm, the distance between the risers is 12 m. The standard length of one downpipe is 3 m. For example, the height of the wall to the roof overhang is 4 m. Subtract from this size the length of the drain pipe and 25 see to the ground. It turns out the length of the pipe riser is 3.5 m.

A good example of the number of placed drain risers

With regards to the number of risers. The maximum distance between them is 12 m.

1. The length of the slope is 10 m, you can install one riser from one edge and direct the gutters in its direction.
2. The length of the slope is more than 12 m, but not more than 24 m, two risers are installed along the edges of the roof, which means that their total length is 7 m.
3. The length of the overhang is more than 24 m, three downpipes are mounted.

With regards to the rest of the elements of the drainage system.

Dimensions of elements of the drainage system

Dimensional parameters of trays and pipes are an important criterion that determines the effective operation of the entire structure. Because the roof and the drain are united by one factor - water draining along the roof. The larger its volume, the larger the section should be selected elements. Incorrect selection leads to overflow of water over the edges, and these are poured walls and foundations.

There are certain standards that use the ratio of the area of ​​​​the roof slope and the diameters of pipes and trays. They are shown in the table.

Here it is necessary to understand that the selection of the dimensions of the elements of the system depends only on the area from which water is drained into them. For example, the length of the slope is 24 m, which means that 2 risers are installed along its edges. The total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope will have to be divided by "2". It is this parameter that must be taken into account when selecting the dimensions of the tray and pipe.

Instrument preparation

Before you install the gutters, you need to prepare the tools. Depending on the choice: plastic or metal, the equipment of the tool arsenal depends.

So, you will need:

• hacksaw for metal;
• metal scissors;
• perforator for drilling walls for mounting risers;
• screwdriver
• long cord, tape measure, pencil;
• level, plumb;
• pliers;
• mallet, hammer;
• ladder.

It is forbidden to cut metal gutters with a grinder, so it was not included in the list of required tools. At a high speed of rotation of the cutting disc, metal cutting is accompanied by the release of high temperature. This leads to a violation of the protective zinc layer.. This means that the place of the cut is an area that will quickly begin to corrode. With regards to plastic, at the point of cutting with a grinder, the material melts, losing its properties and parameters.

Mounting sequence

Everything is ready, you can proceed to the installation work. The gutter is a gravity-flowing system, so it is important to correctly set the gutters at a certain angle. Its value is 3–5 mm per meter of the length of the gutter structure. For understanding, we denote that one end of a tray 1 m long should be 3–5 mm lower than the other. For example, the length of the roof slope is 10 m, one edge of the gutter structure relative to the other should be 3–5 cm lower.

Gutter slope options

Based on this, marks are made at the corners of the slope, where the places of the two extreme brackets are determined. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the frontal board or nails are driven in, between which a strong cord is pulled. This will be the hook installation line.

How to do it right to accurately determine the installation locations of the two extreme hooks.

1. The first upper one is installed from the lower edge of the roofing material at a distance of 4–5 cm.
2. The exact distance from the nail driven into the designated point to the edge of the roofing material is measured.
3. The resulting size is transferred to the other edge of the slope with the addition of a slope based on the length of the overhang.

Experienced craftsmen do not always use nails or self-tapping screws to install the cord. They immediately attach the brackets, avoiding unnecessary operations. If both end brackets are screwed to the supporting base, you can proceed to the installation of other hooks. It is important to install the latter so that they are oriented relative to the cord with the same details as the first two installed devices.

There is one more thing to consider when installing brackets. The result should be that the edges of the roofing material overlap the gutter by a maximum of one third of its width. It is this arrangement that can guarantee the exact entry of flowing water into the tray without overflowing over the edge.

So, the brackets are installed exactly on the level, you can remove the cord and proceed to laying the gutters.

Installation of a grooved structure

In principle, you can start laying the gutters from any side. It is recommended to start from the location of the downpipes. In this place, two systems will be connected: horizontal and vertical. The element connecting them is a funnel. Therefore, first the gutter is adjusted to the funnel and the place where the hole will be made in the tray is determined.

It is made with a hacksaw. You just need to make a cut at an angle on both sides, taking into account the distance between the cuts, equal to the diameter of the pipe. It is recommended to process the cut edges so that there are no bumps, burrs.

Sawing holes for the funnel and its installation

A plug is put on the extreme chute. This can be done on an already mounted structure. But before installation, it is more convenient to do this. The edge of the grooved part is inserted into the groove of the plug, where a rubber cuff is located inside, ensuring the tightness of the joint. Now the gutters can be laid alternately with overlapping edges of each joint. The overlap size is 5–10 cm. Many manufacturers of plastic trays today offer connecting elements that are 25 cm long gutters complete with rubber cuffs, like those of plugs. By inserting two grooves from different sides of the connecting device, you get a sealed joint.

Exactly the same designs are made and funnels. Using them, there is no need to cut holes in the gutters. The latter are simply connected by a funnel to each other. Simple and convenient.

With regards to fastening the gutters to the brackets. Here are different fastening technologies. Two types are most commonly used:

• clamps with throwing the element through the gutter, used to use ordinary wire;
• clamps that fasten the edges of the gutters, they are flexible and look like hooks.

Installation of gutter risers

The process can be described as follows: the risers are strictly vertical and attached to the wall of the house with clamps. First, clamps are installed. From the center of the funnel nozzle, it is necessary to lower a vertical line along the wall with a plumb line. It is better to beat it off on the wall surface. Optimally - install fasteners of this type at the junction of two pipes, a pipe and a drain.

The first collar is attached to the wall at a distance of 30–50 cm from the ground, taking into account the distance from the drain to the ground and the size of the drain pipe itself. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws in plastic dowels, so holes are made in the wall at the installation points, where the latter are driven with a hammer.

Please note that the clamp should be located below any joint at a distance of approximately 10 cm.

The assembly of the riser itself is the installation of pipes in clamps and their connection to each other by means of a sealant or special connecting pipe elements with rubber cuffs (two-way couplings). In the first case, it is a socket connection, which is often used when assembling a sewer system.

Coupling installation process

If the riser is located far from the wall, then it is connected to the funnel with two bends (elbows). Therefore, first, branches are installed on the funnel to the wall, on which a vertical line is then beaten off with its exact passage through the center of the section of the lower branch.

Sometimes two elbows do not fit together with branch pipes. The reason is the wide overhang of the roof. Between them it is necessary to install a pipe segment, which is cut out of the pipe element of the riser. The distance between the branch pipes is measured, and 3–4 cm are added to the obtained value on each side. The allowances are the connecting edges for entering the bends. Important - it is necessary to correctly connect both outlets through the cut pipe to each other. First, a pipe segment is put on the upper outlet, that is, the elbow pipe must be inside it. Then, a branch pipe of the second elbow is put on the second free end of the pipe section. The first must be inside the second. Both joints are treated with sealant.

DIY Installation Video Instructions

Conclusion

So, we have analyzed the topic of how to properly install a drainage system. Materials for manufacturing, elements and assembly technology were disassembled. Despite the apparent simplicity of the installation process, this is not an easy undertaking. It requires care and precision. The main thing is to accurately mark the location of the gutters. Because it is easier to make a drain, that is, to assemble it, if calculations and markings are correctly performed.

Ensuring good drainage of liquid from the roof is a very important part of building a house. We propose to consider how the correct installation of gutters on the roof with your own hands is carried out, step-by-step instructions and installation diagrams, as well as the price of parts.

Information about drainage systems

Installation of a drain in a country house or at home should be carried out according to a special technology, it depends on the material from which the gutter is made. If plastic is used for the barillet material, then it must be cut with a special nozzle for the grinder, so you can do the job as accurately as possible. After cutting with a file, it is necessary to clean the processing areas. In the event that your drain consists of metal parts, it must be cut with special scissors, and at the end of the work, lubricate the metal with a primer and paint for outdoor work.

Photo - Drainage scheme

Self-installation of a drain includes the following stages:

1. Project evaluation and planning. Before installing gutters, you need to carefully check the surface of the building. Inspect the panel and soffits for signs of rotted wood, chipped boards, rusty planks and panels. In order to ensure a thorough view, you must remove all decorative elements, crowns and protective grilles.

Photo - Conclusion of the drain.

1. Its development. Draw a sketch and measure the house. The photo shows an approximate drainage system for a typical house with a gable roof. Record the length of the system and mark where the downpipe will be installed. After that, you need to count the number of internal and external corners and caps (note whether they are right or left-ended). Measure the height of the downspouts and add 1 meter of gutter to install the junction at the ground. On residential buildings, three cubits at the barillet must be used. There are two types of elbows. Most setups only need the front elbows, but sometimes a lateral elbow needs to be worked on to gutter a sloping roof.

Here some planning tips:

• Before starting work, you need to find a suitable gutter profile. It can be a circle, a semicircle or a rectangle. Experts advise using a semicircle for roof drains, and a circle for organizing water flow.
• Mark on the drawing where you will place the roof gutters. If the exterior is very important to you, then you can arrange built-in gutters on the roof. Tip: it is easiest to mount pipes in a hinged way.
• Calculate the slope of the drain, the norms depend on its material, especially if you are installing high drains.

Video: installation diagram of the drainage system

Step-by-step instruction

1. Gutter manufacturing

Cut the barillet of the selected profile to reduce the length. Bend the gutters, cut out the bottom. It is much more convenient to assemble individual parts of the drainage system on the ground than with hanging fixtures. All knees need to be secured with sealant, the seam should be at least 5 centimeters, this will help minimize the likelihood of breaking the downpipe. In the photo you can see how to fix corner structures.

Photo - Drain Elbows

Many installers also coat the joints with a special compound that increases the corrosion resistance of the metal.

In places where the gutter ends, it must be shortened by approximately 2-5 centimeters, this is necessary to ensure maximum drain pressure. Then attach the end cap with rivets to the gutter and connect it from the inside to the drainage system using sealant.

Photo - Components of the drain

1. Add Downpipes and Overlays (Gutters)

Mark the location of the center of the downpipe rosette at the bottom of the gutter. After that, cut a V-shaped section on the pipe, and use a flange to strengthen the hole, then install the socket. The same action must be done in each pipe where a socket is planned.

1. The next step is to set the slope.

The number and size of the drain determines how quickly the gutters will drain water. If you do not equip the slope, then the water will stagnate in some areas, which will lead to corrosion. The slope is 0.7-0.9 mm for every 3 meters of the system. If the front boards of the house are on the same level, you can use them as the basis for sloped gutters. Check this by holding the level against the bottom edge. If they are not at the same level, then you will need to adjust the slope line until it matches the desired indicator.

Photo - Drain funnel

1. Mount spotlights

To prevent water from flowing under the edges of the roof, you need to install spotlights. The cheapest protective devices are made of plastic and siding, the most durable and durable are made of aluminum.

1. Add hidden brackets

Install hangers every 60 centimeters to support the drain and reinforce the front edge of the structure. To do this, use a drill to make a hole, then use construction screws to fix the canopies. You may need swivel devices to mount track barillets.

1. Attach gutter barillettes

Now the elbow is being installed to the outlet. On each side of the pipe, leave 5-7 centimeters for safety net. After installation, use a hacksaw to remove the unnecessary section of the pipe.

Photo - Connection of gutters

After completion of the installation work, with the help of plastic gratings, it is necessary to protect the open places of the pipes from leaves, dust and other contaminants. If you have hidden drains, then you can cover the installation sites with soft bituminous tiles. The same technology is used for sidewalk drains.

In addition to the installation of gratings, the installation of heaters is carried out. They are necessary to protect gutters from damage due to temperature changes, and if water freezes in the pipe, the operation of the gutter deteriorates significantly. For heating, power cables are used, which are mounted over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe drain. Such an anti-icing system is also used for organizing water supply, heating metal tiles and other roofing in winter.

Photo - Drainage Protection

Rules for installing metal gutters:

1. Fasteners must be fastened to wooden rafters with a distance of 50 centimeters (10% error is allowed).
2. We start laying the gutters from the funnel (the final parts of the drainage systems). They can be interconnected using glue, sealant, ventilation couplings;
3. Water, when draining from the roof, should fall into the center of the gutters. This is the main secret of professional craftsmen;
4. If you need to remove liquid from the under-roof space, then you will need to lay a drip. It is mounted on the rafters, covered with waterproofing.

The technology of installation and location of gutters on the roof depends entirely on the material used. Once every six months, clean the drains from dirt and leaves, wipe the attachment points with an anti-corrosion compound. Every year, a complete restoration of the system is carried out: painting, checking, if necessary, welding the seams.

Photo - Polluted drains

Price overview

Installing simple gutters with your own hands is quite easy, but if you do not have the proper experience, then it is better to seek help from specialists. We propose to consider what is the cost of installing gutters in different cities of the CIS (the price list is taken from the websites of the most popular companies in Russia):

Photo - Gutter around the perimeter of the house

The most popular brands of rectangular and round gutters for country houses: Devi, EKAROS P.V.M. AS, Flamingo, Murol. They are sold at dealerships and partner stores. The same brands are often installed for skylights. It is better to buy drainpipes in bulk, the delivery is carried out at the expense of the seller company.

The drainage system should be selected at the design stage of the house. This will allow you to calculate all the nuances and correctly select the desired design. Its main role is to protect the foundation of the house from rain. Therefore, it is so important to correctly determine the material from which the drain is made. On average, the service life of a drainage system is from 5 to 100 years. But with improper installation, it can fail much faster. Consider how to properly install a roof drain with your own hands.

Drainage Design Tasks

• First of all, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future roof and each of its slopes is calculated separately. Thanks to the data obtained, the required throughput of the roof drainage system, the diameter of the downpipes and the size of the gutter are determined.
• The next step is to draw up a preliminary plan for the placement of drainage elements, which will determine the sequence of work, calculate the number of components and their approximate location. For greater convenience, this is done on a copy of the roof drawing.
• It is also important to choose the right material from which the gutters for the roof are made. Due to the wide variety of options, making a choice is not so easy. To a greater extent, it depends on the general appearance of the house and the aesthetic ideas of its owner. In terms of service life, inexpensive plastic drains are practically not inferior to metal ones. But they are unlikely to look harmonious with real tiles or copper roofing.

Components of the drainage system

brackets

With their help, the gutter of the drainage system is attached to the roof. They are produced in different shapes and from different materials, but the color completely matches the entire drainage system.

Depending on the shape, they can be fixed in several ways:

• the simplest and most commonly used method is to attach the bracket to the frontal roof board. Thus, the gutter is easily installed on an already finished roof. Basically, such brackets are completed with PVC systems. Thanks to highly developed vertical ribs, they are able to withstand heavy loads. In metal structures, brackets for this type of fastening are made short. In the absence of a frontal board, combined brackets are suitable. They have steel extensions, with which they are attached directly to the rafter leg. When access to the rafters is not possible, special metal crutches are mounted into the wall, and a gutter is attached to them with the help of studs.
• With the second method of installation, the drain is mounted before laying the roofing material. The gutter is attached to the rafter leg. This method is rational for roofs with a large area, on which heavy roofing is used. For reliable fastening, the step between the rafters should not exceed 600 mm.

• The third option is optimal for roofs where the distance between the rafters exceeds 600 mm. In most cases, these are roofs coated with metal tiles or ondulin. This method involves the use of combined brackets or long hooks that are attached to the first lath of the batten or to the lower edge of the deck (if shingles are used). Only compliance with the rules and procedures for installing hooks will ensure the reliability and durability of the structure.

Gutters

They also come in different forms. There is a round, semicircular, rectangular, oval or combined section. It is important that the gutters and hooks have the same shape and are from the same system.

A symmetrical gutter is considered universal, to which it will not be difficult to pick up components. This will simplify the work even at the stage of designing and calculating the required number of components of the system.

In addition, they are distinguished by the method of connection with the bracket. The fastest way to assemble will be a system with a simple snap. It is equipped with swivel latches, thanks to which it will be possible to easily dismantle a certain part of the gutter for repair or replacement.

When choosing them, linear fluctuations in their dimensions should also be taken into account (especially when choosing PVC structures). To compensate for them, couplings are produced, on the inside of which there are notches.

Tip: gutters made of PVC do not connect end-to-end - this can lead to cracks and breakage.

Despite the fact that the gutter made of metal has a much lower thermal expansion, during its installation a coupling is also used as a compensator.

To protect the gutters from icing, they are insulated or a system of electric heating cables is installed.

Seals

They are made from ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber. This is a modern analogue of the rubber mixture for the tightness of the joints. It has high elasticity, which allows you to restore its original shape even after prolonged use.

It is moisture resistant and unaffected by the environment. Most often, the seals are coated with silicone grease, which makes installation easier and additionally protects the rubber.

Drainage funnels

As the name implies, their function is to collect water flowing down the gutters and direct it into the drainpipes. In PVC systems, they are made as a separate part. In addition, the funnels are divided into left, right and through passages. The left and right have a wall that acts as a gutter plug and are installed at the end, and the through passages are installed anywhere.

In a metal drainage system, funnels can be placed anywhere, but you will need to cut a round hole under it.

They look like a short bent pipe. They are used to connect drainpipes and funnels, as well as to drain water from the foundation. On average, each drainpipe will need three elbows: two at the top and one at the bottom.

Downspouts

They can be rectangular or round. This does not affect their functionality in any way and depends only on the design of the facade of the house and the entire drainage system. Their length varies from 1 to 4 meters. The main difference between PVC pipes and metal pipes is that they have the same diameter along the entire length. This means that couplings will be needed to attach them to each other, which will lead to additional costs.

Clamps

With their help, pipes are attached to the facade of the building. They are made of different materials and different shapes: plastic with two points of support, metal with one long hardware, snapped into place when around the pipe or with screwed elements.

Materials for the drainage system

The price of gutters for the roof depends primarily on the material from which they are made. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at each type.

Plastic

This is a modern material that is durable, lightweight and easy to process. The dyes that are used in its production retain color saturation throughout the entire period of operation declared by the manufacturer, which is about 20-40 years. In addition, it has a low price.

Plastic drainage systems are made from several types of polymers:

• PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
• nPCV - unplasticized polyvinylchloride;
• PE - polyethylene;
• PP - polypropylene.

They are resistant to mechanical damage and UV radiation. They are not subject to corrosion and do not require additional care.

Steel

Galvanized steel is the most popular due to its low price and availability, but has an ugly appearance and is short-lived. Much more practical gutter systems made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating. They are stronger than plastic structures, and thanks to the coating they are durable. They are made from the same material as the metal tile. In most cases, they are either white or brown, other colors are painted only on individual order.

Copper

The most expensive, but durable and beautiful material. The service life can reach IV centuries. To prevent the formation of electrolytic fumes that destroy copper, all components must be made of the same material. Contact with titanium zinc or galvanized steel is especially dangerous for her. Over time, copper changes color to green, which does not affect its performance.

Aluminum

Lightweight and durable material that can be dyed any color. Its service life exceeds 50 years.

Zinc-titanium

This light alloy has a shiny surface. It is very durable and can be used in regions with extreme weather conditions. But in working with it, you will need to follow a number of rules. Zinc-titanium should not come into contact with PVC, vapor barrier membranes and roofing material. Work with it is prohibited at metal temperatures below +10°C. This is a very expensive material, so all work must be done by professionals.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

After the material is selected, the calculation of the amount of required materials begins. Consultants in companies selling gutter systems or a roofing company that performs installation work can help you with this. But you can do it yourself.

First, the number of gutters is calculated. Their total length corresponds to the length of all roof slopes from which water will be collected. Knowing the length of the slopes, it is easy to calculate the required number of drain funnels. On average, one is installed for every 10 meters.

The number of drainpipes also depends on the number of funnels. Their length is equal to the distance from ground level to the roof.

The number of turns is determined by the feature of the facade and is calculated individually. You can always buy the missing items.

Clamps and brackets are very easy to calculate. You will need one bracket for every meter of gutter. The number of clamps depends on the height of the building, the main rule is that each individual section of the pipe must be fixed with at least one clamp.

Do-it-yourself installation of gutters on the roof

To install metal gutters for the roof, you will need the following tools:

• a hammer;
• marking cord;
• universal screwdriver;
• tape measure from 3 meters long;
• pipe pliers;
• hook bender;
• hacksaw for metal.

It is not recommended to cut metal pipes and gutters with a grinder. Since the polymer coating heats up during cutting, which will lead to damage to the elements of the drain.

Installation steps:

• determination of the location of the brackets (gutter holders). The distance between them should be 40-50 cm;
• marks are made on the brackets that determine the slope of the gutter, which is 5 mm per 1 m. It is worth noting that, according to the instructions, one downpipe can serve no more than 10 meters of the gutter;
• brackets are bent according to the finished marks. The fastest way to do this is with a hook bender. Then two extreme brackets are installed, and a cord is pulled between them, along which all other holders are installed;
• preparing the gutter for installation. A gutter of the required length is assembled from the components. It is possible that for this you will have to saw off the excess with a hacksaw. But before it is installed on the roof, the parts are not fastened together. For a drain funnel, you will need to cut a hole at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the gutter in the shape of the letter V and with a diameter of 10 cm;
• the outlet funnel for the downpipe is mounted. Its outer edge is brought under the curved drainage chute and pressed tightly. Then the flange petals of the funnel are bent;

• chute is installed. Alternately, all the components of the gutter are laid on ready-made brackets and attached. Further, a cornice strip is attached to the crate in such a way that its lower edge descends into the gutter. And the edge of the roofing waterproofing starts over the cornice strip. Due to this, all the condensate that may form in the under-roof space will enter the drainage system;

• the connection of the gutters of the drain is overlapped on each other by 20-30 mm. Rubber seals provide additional tightness to the joints;
• a protective mesh is installed on the spillway, which will protect it from debris. It is mounted in the hole of the outlet funnel in the gutter and is called a spider;
• overflow limiter installation. They are needed in the places of the gutter, which are located under the fragments of roofs with adjoining;
• fastening of connecting pipes. This design involves connecting two knees of the drainage system to each other. The length of the connecting pipe is calculated individually;
• fastening of drainpipes. First, holders (clamps) are mounted to the wall of the house from below, above and at the pipe junctions. The distance between the drain elbow and the blind area is about 30 cm.

Installation of a drainage system with rectangular gutters

Their installation is a more laborious process. To connect the individual parts, you will need rivets (riveter) and sealant.

System differences:

• the weir funnel is attached to the gutter with rivets and sealant. The hole is cut cross-shaped or round.
• the plug, corners and gutters of the drain are also fastened with rivets and sealant.

Homemade gutter for the roof

For a small summer house, you can make budget weirs with your own hands. For example, by making them from galvanized drywall profiles without holes. They come in different sizes, so choosing the right one is quite easy. The profiles are folded in a “box”, and the excess is cut off with metal scissors.

Not only manufacturing, but also fixing the drain to the roof will not take much time. Mounting galvanized tape 2 mm thick with holes is fastened under the roof overhang. It is fixed on bolts, rivets or screws. Then bending the fasteners, the required level of inclination is reached.

As a result of a home-made gutter device from the roof, an inconspicuous but durable structure is obtained.

Gutters for the roof photo

The drainage system involves the collection and disposal of precipitation, as well as melt water, but the possibilities of such systems do not end there, since they can be used to direct the liquid directly into the storm sewer. As a result, atmospheric precipitation does not fall on the walls, while ensuring the safety of the blind area. In addition, the accumulation of water near the foundation and in basements is excluded, which guarantees an extension of the life of the building.

In this article, we will look at some types of rain sewers, and also learn how to make them yourself.

The design of the gutter assumes the presence of special gutters for the removal of precipitation, which are installed along the perimeter of the roof using brackets. Due to the fact that the storm drain repeats the configuration of the upper element of the building along its base, there are both external and internal corners. At the same time, all elements of the system are interconnected with sufficient tightness, which is provided by rubber seals.

Many consider such elements to be superfluous, since the option of overlapping the gutters is available, when one part overlaps another by at least 30 cm, and their connection is carried out by means of self-tapping screws.

To ensure the removal of precipitation, holes are made in certain places of the gutter, necessary for the installation of funnels. After that, sewer pipes are connected to the installed cone-shaped devices, that is, they are integrated into the overall system.

When the roof has a large overhang, a curved cylindrical product is used, which is possible with the help of additional elements in the form of knees and special rings. The downpipe is mounted on the wall of the house with clamps.

The result of such an assembly is the creation of a system of the required configuration. For self-arrangement of storm water, you will need a plan of the house with its exact dimensions. This will allow you to understand what elements will need to be purchased for the future design, as well as determine their quantity.

Kinds

Drainage systems may differ in the method of installation and the material used. In the first case, the water drainage facility is classified as home-made and industrial, and in the second - as plastic and metal.

Homemade drain

An independent solution to the issue of arranging rainwater drainage has certain advantages. Such a system can turn out not only beautiful, but also original. You can realize almost any fantasy in terms of creating a structure to protect your home from water. In this case, it is worth considering some nuances.

A home-made system requires significant costs and regular maintenance, since its arrangement is usually carried out using galvanizing, which quickly begins to rot. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the certain complexity of joining some elements.

We tried to take into account the frequent mistakes of the masters and below are the installation rules.

Factory drain

Buying a factory rainwater system will save you from many problems of non-compliance with standards and parameters. When purchasing certain elements of the drain from one manufacturer, you do not have to worry that they will not fit each other, since the factory is distinguished by the release of standardized products.

Plastic drain

Plastic-based systems are glued, which involves the installation of storm sewers with glue, and glueless, assembled using rubber seals. Regardless of the choice of installation method, plastic gutters have the following advantages:

• resistance to ultraviolet radiation;
• no corrosion;
• strength;
• light weight;
• wide operating temperature range - from -40 °C to +70 °C;
• the possibility of creating a drain of any configuration, which is due to a rich assortment of components;
• lack of need for regular care;
• ease of installation;
• variety of color solutions.

However, plastic also has a number of disadvantages, including the following:

• poor resistance to mechanical stress, which excludes the possibility of installing a plastic structure on high-rise buildings;
• regular replacement of rubber seals, which can be carried out exclusively by disassembling the problem area and reassembling after the malfunction has been eliminated;
• the inability to restore one or another destroyed tool, which characterizes such systems as insufficiently repairable;
• significant linear expansion of plastic elements.

metal drain

Storm sewers made of metal differ from each other in that they can be galvanized, copper and with a zinc layer supplemented with a polymer coating. The choice of a particular type of design is based on characteristics such as price and service life. In any case, metal gutters are good because they:

The disadvantages of such systems include:

• significant weight of the gutter structure as a whole;
• a small number of components, which makes it difficult to install such systems on roofs that have angles other than 90 degrees;
• installation complexity;
• high price;
• a small selection of colors;
• susceptibility to corrosion (except for copper systems);

It is quite difficult to determine which drain is better, since a lot depends on various factors, for example, operating conditions. At the same time, it is necessary to understand that it is not the cost of the structure that is of primary importance, but its compliance with the quality parameters.

Do-it-yourself gutter from various materials

Below are a few examples of how to make a rain drain for a roof yourself. This lesson is not difficult, the main thing is to have a desire to do such work, understand the process of creating a system and know some options for executing the plan. For example, a drain can be made from a sewer pipe, tin, sheet metal, wood, polyethylene, etc.

Sewage pipe

In order to correctly calculate the gutter parameters in accordance with the expected rainfall intensity, it is necessary to determine the effective roof area. If such calculations cause you difficulties, you can use the average values, which involves the preparation of the following elements of the system:

• plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 mm for arranging water drainage;
• a cylindrical product with a thickness of 100 to 110 mm, necessary for the manufacture of gutters;
• adapters that make it possible to connect the above-mentioned elements to each other when the diameter reaches 110 mm at the inlet and 50 mm at the outlet.

Since a sewer pipe made of plastic was taken for the manufacture of gutters, it will need to be opened into two halves that are the same size. To do this, you can use a grinder, an electric jigsaw or a hand saw. The first option is preferred, but there are some process nuances here.

If you cut the pipe with a grinder, then plastic will inevitably stick to a special casing, so it is advisable to dismantle this safety element. As a result, it is recommended to use other protection, part of which is a mandatory face mask. Although there is a more optimal solution to the problem - to buy a special disc designed to work with plastic.

For a high-quality connection of gutters and tees, do not open the pipe to the end: leave about 150 mm at the edges.

Metal

A sheet of metal is taken and folded into strips so that their width is 25 cm. Then these parts are shaped into a gutter, that is, they bend accordingly. The use of galvanized sheet or tin implies the mandatory manufacture of durable steel brackets. To do this, you can use a wire rod (6 mm), but then you have to double the number of hooks.

Making your own brackets should not be difficult. To do this, it is enough to take a saw cut of a log with a diameter of 20 cm or more and wind the wire around it, making about three turns. After that, it is necessary to remove the resulting workpiece and compress it. Then you need to bend the edge of the structure by 4 cm to fix it on the roof, and shape the rest of the part in accordance with the required profile.

With the help of the same screws, the brackets are installed on the roof. Then the gutters are suspended and the water collectors are leveled to form the desired slope.

Wood and polyethylene

As a starting material for the construction of this type of drain, a thin board should be used, the total length of which would be equal to the double perimeter in relation to the roof overhang. After that, you can proceed to the direct manufacture of the drain:

1. Connect the boards in pairs with nails at an angle of 90 degrees.
2. Assemble gutters that match the length of the walls of the house, which must be overlapped.
3. Make fasteners for installing gutters in the form of hooks using boards or wire rod. The best solution would be to use not a wire, but a piece of lumber, the use of which involves cutting triangular grooves that serve to fasten the gutter.
4. Fasten the brackets to the corners of the wall, e.g. with nails.
5. Install narrow channels that direct rainwater from the top of the building, respecting the overlap of their edges.
6. Adjust the slope of the gutters and lay a plastic film in them, securing it with shoe nails, buttons or adhesive tape.

A wooden gutter is quite suitable for the manufacture of a drainpipe, if its length is at least 2.5 m. When digging a ditch, a slope should be created that contributes to the removal of precipitation from the wall of the house at a distance of at least 1.5 m.

A wooden weir from the roof will last longer if, to ensure tightness, you use not a plastic film, but a silicone sealant, having previously treated the wood with a preservative compound.

Installation nuances

After all the blanks are made, we will consider in more detail how to equip the drainage system with our own hands. The brackets are mounted with the obligatory creation of a slope towards the funnels, when, taking into account the running meter, a vertical displacement of 5 mm is assumed. If there is a need to accelerate the flow of water, this slope can be increased to 10 mm.

If the length of the pediment does not exceed 10 m, a slope is made to one of the sides. A greater value involves the installation of an additional funnel installed in the middle with a downpipe connected to it to form a drain. But it is also possible to make two slopes of the gutter coming from the middle of the gable.

To install gutters you need:

• fix the first bracket at the point of maximum height of the sewerage system;
• fix the second, taking into account the fact that it will be below the first, thereby creating the required slope;
• between the installed brackets, pull the twine, which serves as a guide for marking the attachment points for other supporting parts of this type.

The described process of installing storm sewers looks quite simple in terms of its implementation, but there are certain nuances. To create a slope, they are mainly guided by the horizontal, which is the front board, known as the wind board.

But is it always installed with strict horizontality? It is desirable to verify this, for example, using a hydraulic level or level. You can also use a simple version in the form of a bubble device, but only on condition that its length is 1 m or more.

Installation of a metal drain

Mounting a metal structure is a little more complicated. The system is equipped in compliance with a certain order of work: first hooks are installed, then funnels are cut in, gutters are connected to each other, plugs and other elements are used to form the system as such, including connecting drain pipes.

Hooks

The installation of long hooks at the stage of building a house, that is, before the roof is laid, is the predominant fastening of these parts to the rafters. If the upper element of the building cover is already equipped, short rods are used, the installation site of which is the frontal board.

The use of long hooks is preferable, as this allows you to give the system additional strength. In any case, regardless of the type of fastening, the hook installation step should be observed - from 600 to 900 mm. If this is not followed, the system is likely to collapse due to the load created by the snow. To calculate the required number of hooks, there is a simple formula:

n=L/b

where L is the distance that determines the distance between the first two installed metal rods from each other, b is the installation step of the supporting parts of the type in question.

The number of hooks required during the construction of the gutter system is calculated not only using the above formula, but also taking into account the fact that these supporting parts must be present at the joints of the gutter and at its ends.

To create a flow of collected water towards the funnel, the system is given a slope of 5 mm per linear meter of the gutter. As a result, there is a need for vertical displacement of fasteners, which can be calculated using the following formula:

h = 0.005 x L,

where L is the distance available between the extreme hooks.

For example, with a gutter length of 10 m, a vertical offset of 5 cm will be determined. The installation of the so-called starting hooks is carried out taking into account the vertical offset. The installation of other supporting parts is carried out along the line, which is marked with a twine stretched between two hooks originally installed.

Before proceeding with the installation of these parts, it is advisable to check how the position of the cornice corresponds to the horizontal level, as this may affect the accuracy of the layout. Hooks must be fastened with a distance of at least 25 mm between the line created by the roof slope and the edge of the gutter looking outward.

Funnels

Mark the places for mounting the funnels, and then cut out the holes in the shape of the letter V. If it is planned to install a drain 125 by 90 mm, then the width of such openings should be from 100 to 110 mm. When mounting a structure 150 by 100 mm - from 120 to 130 mm. In this case, it is necessary to observe the distance of the top edge of the gutter from the cutout in accordance with a minimum distance of 15 mm.

Stubs

Installation of such devices is carried out at the ends of the gutter. The implementation of this process involves the direct installation of a plug, followed by sealing the connection using a special silicone compound. Greater density can be given due to the effectiveness of the rubber mallet.

gutters

Using a hook, fasten the gutter by driving its inner edge into the retainer and ensuring that the outer edge is held due to the lamellar type of this fastener.

Such installation involves fastening the gutter, observing that the outer edge of this element of the system must be 6 mm lower than the inner one. Setting the proposed angle of inclination is necessary to exclude the possibility of water ingress on the facade during heavy rainfall.

The roof covering in this case should be above the gutter, capturing 50 mm of its width. At the same time, the slope line should not reach the edge of the gutter by 40 mm. Although a run-up is usually formed due to the fact that the narrow channel is installed at a slope, that is, at the top of the gutter it can be 20 mm, and at the bottom - 70 mm.

Upon completion of the installation of the channel that collects and directs water from the roof of the building, a cornice strip is installed. Its lower edge should hang over the gutter, as this eliminates the possibility of the front board getting wet.

Connectors and corners

Special connectors make it possible to connect the gutters. As part of such elements there are rubber gaskets, which not only guarantee the tightness of the docking, but also eliminate the negative effects of thermal expansion.

Gutters should be fixed with the condition that there will be a gap of 3 to 4 mm between them. Direct installation of connectors involves the following set of actions: bend the lock at an angle within 90 degrees; install the device so that its rolled side is put on the back of the gutter; align the product and snap the lock.

Downspouts

This stage involves the mandatory installation of at least 2 brackets with a step of 1 m. The supporting parts must be installed at the joints of the pipes and where the elbow is mounted.

If the walls of the house are wooden or the material they are made of is rather soft, then the brackets are fixed with self-tapping screws. With regard to concrete and brick walls, the installation of supporting parts involves the use of a drill.

The final installation process is the connection of the elbow of the cylindrical product, the drain and connecting pipes, as well as the drain elbow. Given that the connecting pipe is crimped on both sides, the product may well be used when installing two risers, since it is available for cutting.

If there is a need to get a connecting pipe about 90 cm long, for this it is enough just to get rid of the upper crimp, that is, cut it off. The height of the drain elbow from the ground level should be no more than 200 mm, as this avoids water splashing.

The last nuances of installing the system are connecting the sewer pipe to the funnel and snapping the bracket locks.

Installation of drainage cylindrical products should be carried out by crimping down, which is necessary in order to eliminate the possibility of leakage.

PVC gutter installation

There is nothing complicated in installing this design, however, some nuances must be taken into account:

• indicate how the system will be placed, taking into account the fact that the entire volume of precipitation collected from the roof should fall into it;
• determine the location of funnels and corners;
• install the first bracket at the highest point in relation to the cone;
• using twine and a level, determine a horizontal line passing through the point where the bracket is installed, and, starting from it, set the slope;
• install the last support part and connect it to the first one with twine;
• to mount other brackets in compliance with the step of 40 cm, adhering to the marked slope line.

1. Gutter installation:

• prepare a narrow channel by making segments from it of the required length;
• connect the components of the drain using the appropriate elements or glue;
• install the gutter on the brackets, using the latches and avoiding the joints of both the channels themselves and the funnels getting on these supporting elements;
• install plugs.

1. Installation of a sewerage system:

• connect the pipe to the gutter by diverting the drain;
• align the vertical of the cylindrical structure with a plumb line and square;
• fix the pipes forming the structure for removing precipitation in order to determine the installation locations of the clamps with a step of 1 m, but with the obligatory location of the upper part on the line of the first joint;
• fix the connecting elements on the wall, taking into account the fact that the sewer pipe after installation will be 2 cm away from the side structure of the house;
• mount the drain socket on the hatch, but without rigid fixation, so that the drain can be controlled.

We tried to touch on all the nuances of installing a rain sewer. A number of works are quite difficult to carry out alone, so it is recommended to use a partner.