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To learn how to make a roof with your own hands correctly, you need to study a few instructions for doing this rather complicated job. It should be noted right away that there are several types of roofs, each of which has its own device scheme and requires a special approach. In addition, the choice of the type of roof will depend on the purpose of the building that will be covered by it.
Properly erected roof elements will be able to protect the house not only from precipitation, but also keep precious heat inside the building in winter. Therefore, a well-built and insulated roof is no less important than reliable warm walls.
Roof types
As mentioned above, there are several types of roofs. When choosing an option suitable for a particular building, it is worth considering some of them in order to know what they are.
Different types of roofs... To date, the following main types of roofs are satisfied in construction practice: single-pitched, gable with a slope, tent, mansard, hip four-slope, half-hip, multi-slope.
… from the simplest to the most complex shed roof
This option is usually used to cover garages or outbuildings, but sometimes such a roof is also suitable for residential private houses.
Such a design can be called one of the simplest of all existing ones, especially in cases where the slope of the slope is very small. If there are plans to equip another room under the roof, then the design becomes somewhat more complicated. Nevertheless, this type of roof is the most economical in terms of roofing and lumber consumption.
Gable roof
The gable version of the roof is considered traditional for residential buildings, country houses and is installed more often than all other types. Apparently, this is due to the fact that such a roof can be arranged for any structure of the building. The slope of the slopes will depend on the distance between the outer walls and the location of the load-bearing walls inside the house.
hipped roof
This is a fairly complex design, which is almost never used in recent years. However, if it is decided to choose it, then it is better to use a beam-tightening system with struts and racks for the device.
The roof consists of four isosceles triangles - their vertices converge at one point. The hipped roof resembles a tetrahedral pyramid or tent, hence its name.
Double pitched roof
Such a roof is arranged according to the scheme of a gable roof, but it has bevels of different slopes in the front part.
Hip or pitched roof
This design is somewhat reminiscent of a hip roof version, but, unlike it, it has a ridge. The roof is quite complex in design, and most often a scheme with double puffs and beams is used to build it.
Half hip roof
This design has hardly been used in recent years, since it is rather complicated in the device. If it is chosen, then it is mainly arranged according to the truss scheme with puffs.
pitched roof
Such a roof is arranged in houses with complex layouts, or if an extension is made to the main building. The design of a multi-pitched roof is quite complex, and it is used only in extreme cases.
mansard roof
You can’t call a mansard roof simple in execution ... Due to the fact that this design allows you to solve two problems at once - to get an additional room at the same time as a reliable roof, the attic version can be called one of the most popular after the gable type.
... but under certain conditions, a residential attic can also be located under a conventional gable roof Roof slope
It is very important to make the correct slope of the roof - the durability of not only the structure covering the house, but the entire building will depend on this. In regions with cold winters and a lot of snow, the slope plays a particularly important role, since if it is insufficient, then snowdrifts will collect on the surface, which, when melted, can simply fail the roof. That is why it is recommended to make the slope at least 40 ÷ 45 degrees.
In addition to the location of the building, the roofing material also affects the choice of roof slope. So, if it is planned to use tiles or slate for covering, then the slope should not be less than 25 degrees, otherwise water may seep into the attic at the joints, as there will be a small intensity of water runoff.
When constructing a gable structure, the slope is usually made from 30 to 45, and for a single slope 25 ÷ 30 degrees.
Components of the roof structure
In different roof systems, the elements vary, but the main ones still remain the same. These include the following:
- Skate - the upper part of the roof, the place where its slopes are connected. This element is absent in the tent and single-sided version.
- Slopes are the main planes of the roof covered with roofing material.
- Endova - the inner corner of the roof, formed at the junction of two slopes. This element is present only in complex structures. When arranging the roof, valleys should be given special attention during waterproofing work, since such a site is one of the most vulnerable places in the structure, it is in them that the largest accumulation of snow occurs.
- The eaves overhang is the overhang of the roof on the sides of the house. They are installing drainage systems.
- Gable overhang - the protruding part of the slopes above the front side of the roof.
- The rafter system is a structure that is the basis for the installation of slopes. There are several varieties of these systems, but the most reliable of them is the triangle, since it is this figure that gives the structure rigidity.
Rafter systems
Before installing any structure made of wood, the material must first be coated with antiseptics and fire retardants, which can protect it from fungal formations, insect colonies and increase the fire safety of the entire system.
The main element in the rafter system is the rafters, laid on the Mauerlat, supported by racks, fastened with beds and puffs.
In the upper part, the rafters are overlapped and fastened, while the lower ones are fixed to the Mauerlat or to the bars laid between the rafters.
The rafter system has different shapes and can be layered or hanging.
You can make a simplified version when a crate is stuffed on the rafters, and roofing material is immediately laid on top of it. But the very first winter will show that the roof requires insulation. Therefore, it is best to immediately do everything right and not return to this issue again.
Approximate structure of the "sandwich" of the insulated roof - The first thing that is recommended to be done is to sheathe the truss system from the inside with a vapor barrier film. It is stretched and attached to the rafters with a stapler and staples.
- Further, on top of the vapor barrier film, the roof from the attic side is sheathed with drywall plates - it is screwed with self-tapping screws. Drywall will not only give the attic space neatness, but also serve as the basis for insulation boards.
- At the next stage, you will have to climb the roof so that between the rafters, on the vapor barrier film, lay a heater, which is most often mineral wool in mats or rolls.
- A boardwalk is laid on top of the insulation. The boards for it should not be too thick so as not to make the structure heavier. Instead of boards, plywood sheets (or OSB) 4-5 mm thick can also be used.
- The next layer is sheets of waterproofing material - it can be a dense polyethylene film or roofing material. The waterproofing sheets are overlapped by 20 ÷ 25 cm on top of each other.
- On top of the waterproofing, a counter-lattice is arranged, which consists of slats 10–20 mm thick and is stuffed directly onto the rafters.
- By counter-lattice fixed roof sheathing, with a distance between adjacent guides, which should be less than the tiles, by about 5 mm.
- A frontal board is nailed along the eaves, to which a drain system will later be arranged.
- Before laying the roofing material, hooks are fixed to the rafters, on which drainpipes will be mounted. gutters. After their installation, a cornice strip is installed, which is fixed to the frontal board
- Having arranged the crate and drainage system, you can proceed with the installation of tiles. It starts from the right or left side of the roof, from the bottom row, the tiles are aligned along the edge of the cornice and overlapped, in accordance with the locking system available on it.
- The second row of tiles begins to be laid on the same side as the first - it covers the first row by 50 ÷ 70 mm. Installation is carried out in the same order, up to the roof ridge.
- Having completed laying on the roof slopes, it is necessary to install a ridge at their junction.
- An end bar is fixed to the side rafter, having a size of 25 × 50 mm, and is installed on the corner of the roof corner - stub.
- A self-adhesive sealant is placed between the end bar and the tile.
- The entire side of the roof is closed with an end plate, which is designed to protect the roofing material from wind, which can tear off the coating with strong gusts.
Above, the process of arranging the under-roofing system and roofing with tiles was outlined briefly, with a simple enumeration of the main steps. It probably makes sense to consider it in more detail, literally step by step.
Prices for different types of tiles
Roof tiles
Step-by-step instructions for covering the roof with a tiled roof
Installation of the base under the roofing material
Nowadays, a very wide variety of different roofing materials is presented on the construction market. Nevertheless, tile against this “background” does not lose its popularity, although it is one of the most complex and time-consuming roofing installations.
Ceramic tiles are represented by several European and domestic companies, and it may differ in some design nuances. But the principle of mounting the crate and the coating itself is the same.
For the installation and fixing of the tiles, it is necessary to create the correct basis - the crate, therefore, it is necessary to begin the consideration of the process with the installation of this particular design department.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | At the initial stage, of course, one of the types of truss systems is created, the design of which is described above. Before starting work on the installation of the batten on the rafters, the elements of the system must be additionally checked for their evenness and correct geometry. If irregularities are found on one of the rafter legs, then it must be leveled, since this flaw may adversely affect further work. The check is carried out using a perfectly even beam and a building level. |
 | The next step along the entire cornice line, a metal cornice strip is nailed to the edges of the rafters, which will protect the ends of the rafters from moisture getting on them. Separate planks are laid and overlapped. |
 | Further, on top of the truss system, a vapor-permeable membrane is stretched and fixed with brackets. Its first canvas is laid from left to right on top of the cornice strip. |
 | The next strip of material is laid horizontally, overlapping 150 mm on the bottom sheet. The membrane is mounted with an inscription, which is applied to one of the surfaces, outward. Along the cornice edge, the canvas is additionally fixed on the cornice strip with the help of construction double-sided tape. |
 | The last top sheet should protrude above the ridge, as it bends onto the second roof slope. |
 | At the next stage, the vapor-permeable membrane is fixed from above to the rafter legs with counter rails. It should be taken into account that if the length of the slope is not more than 6000 mm, the thickness of the counter rail should be 24 mm, with a length of not more than 12000 mm - 28 mm, from 12000 mm - 40 mm. The counter rails should not reach the ridge rib by 120÷150 mm. |
 | Further, on the ridge at the top of the junction of the rafter legs, pieces of timber 150 ÷ 200 long and with a section of 50 × 50 mm are fixed. The space remaining between them will play the role of ventilation gaps. |
 | After that, the ridge is covered with a sheet of a vapor-permeable membrane, which should be on the slopes and go beyond the structure from the gables to a distance of 200 ÷ 250 mm. |
 | On top of the membrane, laid along the ridge, for its fixation, sections of the beam are fixed in continuation of the counter-rails. Their size should be equal to the distance from the end of the counter rail to the crest of the ridge. |
 | When forming the cornice overhang, a perforated mesh-plate is mounted on the ends of the counter-rails and on the cornice strip, designed to provide ventilation of the space formed under the roofing material and protect against the penetration of various insects into this gap. |
 | Further, brackets are fixed in the eaves of the counter-rails for mounting gutters on them. Each of them is fixed with two screws or nails. |
 | In order for the gutter to be laid into the brackets without problems, they must be installed exactly in line with the formation of a slope for free flow of water. To do this, craftsmen often install two extreme brackets with the necessary difference, then pull a cord between them, and, already focusing on it, fix the rest of the hooks. |
 | After installing the brackets, a hinged beam is nailed along the cornice edge of the counter-rails along the entire length of the slope eaves. It also becomes the starting beam of the crate under the tiles. |
 | From the hinged beam on the extreme (at gables or roof profile fractures) counter-rails of the slope, the distance (step) with which the battens of the crate will be fixed is marked. This step will depend on the length and overlap of the particular shingle model. Most often it varies from 340 mm to 370 mm. Marking must be done on the extreme counter-rails. Then, on the marked risks, a nail is hammered in, a tracer colored cord is fixed and pulled on them, and with the help of it, a common line is beaten off on all counter-rails to secure the battens of the crate. |
 | The next step on the entire plane of the slope along the markings, horizontal battens of the crate are nailed to the counter-rails. Their cross-sectional size should be 70 × 30 or 70 × 25 mm. |
 | Upon completion of the installation, the crate should look like this. |
 | Next, it is necessary to prepare the roof ridge for further installation of ridge tiles on it - this can be done by attaching two beams to the ridge along the entire length, one on top of the other. |
 | Another option is to use special elements called ridge bar holders. They are screwed to the counter rails using two self-tapping screws on each side of the ridge. |
 | A wooden bar is installed and fixed in the fixed holders. Holders are convenient in that they can have different sizes and heights, so you can always choose it according to the required parameters. |
 | Further, a gutter is installed and fixed in the brackets along the entire length of the eaves. |
 | The gutter is additionally pressed by another cornice strip mounted on the eaves rail. This element, fixed along the entire length of the cornice, closes the entrance to the under-roof space, thereby protecting it from moisture, and descends into the gutter. |
 | Further, on top of the crate along the edges of the slope from the side of the gables, bars with a section of 70 × 70 mm are nailed. They will become the basis for fixing the wind board from the gable part of the roof, as well as limit and close the edge of the tiled masonry. |
 | After that, wind boards are installed and fixed along the pediment, which are additionally interconnected in the ridge area with a metal corner. On this, the preparation of the crate for the installation of a tile coating can be considered completed. |
Installation of tiles on the prepared crate
The installation of most models of ceramic tiles is almost identical, no matter what manufacturer's material is chosen by the owners.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | Installation of tiles starts from the eaves on the right side of the slope. The corner tile is laid first, which is fixed to the second rail from the eaves. |
 | The first tile is fixed in the upper part with the help of two self-tapping screws that are not completely screwed in. |
 | Further, the entire first row of tiles is laid out, each of which is fixed in the upper part on the lathing rail with the help of one self-tapping screw through a hole drilled in it in advance. |
 | At the end of the first row of tiles, the last left corner tile is installed and screwed with two self-tapping screws. |
 | Further, from the bottom to the ridge, the first vertical gable row is mounted, consisting of corner tiles, each of which is fixed with two self-tapping screws. |
 | Next, you will need to prepare the tiles, which will be laid on top of the bracket for mounting a snow barrier on it. In order for the tile to neatly stand up and close the bracket, its location is marked on its reverse side and part of the lock is carefully knocked out with a hammer. |
 | Now, in the second horizontal row with a step of 900 mm, the brackets themselves are installed. This element is hooked with a hook and screwed to the third lath of the crate from the eaves. With the lower side, it is installed on top of the lower tile of the first row. |
 | Once installed and secured, the bracket should look like this illustration. |
 | Further, the prepared tile is installed on top of the fixed bracket and screwed to the third lath of the crate. |
 | The tile covering the bracket is additionally fixed with a wire hook, with which it is hooked to the side edge and twisted to the lath of the crate. In this way, every third tile of this row is fixed, which is laid on brackets-holders. In this illustration, a wire hook is clearly visible, located on the left edge of the tiles of the second row. |
 | Having installed the shingles of the second row, and having fixed all the brackets for the snow barrier, you need to try it on in place as it will be fixed later. It does not make sense to fix the barrier yet, as it will interfere with the further installation of the tiles. |
 | Further, laying of ordinary and corner tiles is overlapped, with their connection to locks, also from right to left, from bottom to top to those areas where additional elements necessary for the normal functioning of the roof structure are built into the coating. |
 | In this way, most often it is necessary to lay special ventilation tiles. If the roof has a length of up to 4500 mm, then these elements are not used. With a length of 4500 to 7000 mm, one row of ventilation tiles is mounted on the second row, counting from the ridge. On longer roofs, ventilation tiles are installed in three rows with a spacing of 1500 mm between them. |
 | On the third or fourth row from the ridge, in the middle part of the slope, a tile with a ventilation pipe, called a passage, is installed. |
 | In combination with other elements of the roof, this element looks like it is shown in this illustration. |
 | Having tried on this tile on a slope, it is temporarily removed, and a round hole is marked and cut out in the membrane under it. Then a sealing ring is installed in it. |
 | Further, from the attic side, a corrugated connecting pipe is inserted into the ring. Usually its diameter is 120 mm. Then, it is connected with the reverse side to the ventilation duct of the building. |
 | A protective cap is put on top of the ventilation pipe, which will protect the entire channel from atmospheric precipitation, dust and debris. |
 | Complete with tiles, a bench (step) for a chimney sweep is often purchased. This element of the roofing system is fixed on the fourth or fifth row from the ridge. The bench brackets are also of a hook design, and they are hooked and screwed to the top lath of the batten in the laying of the row. The lower side of the brackets is installed in the recesses on the tiles of the underlying row. |
 | In order for the closing brackets of the tiles of the upper row to fit snugly against the lath of the crate, chips are made in its locks located in the upper part after fitting. Then, the tiles are laid on top of the hook-brackets and fixed with screws and a wire hook - by analogy with what has already been discussed above. |
 | Another important and complex node when covering the roof is the design of the adjunction of the roofing material to the walls of the chimney. The joint between them must be sealed correctly and tightly. The most convenient way to work on the formation of the abutment is to use a flexible self-adhesive tape made using lead and aluminum. It well accepts a relief form of a tile and is well pasted to it. Adjacency finishing works are carried out in a certain sequence. First, the tape is glued to the front of the pipe with a call to its side walls, as well as to the tiles of the row passing in front of the chimney. To do this, in place, cuts of the desired shape are made on the tape. Then, it is measured and cut off, and then the tape is glued to the side walls and the tiles adjacent to them. |
 | To form a joint on the back side of the pipe, two pieces of tape of the same length are taken, which exceeds the width of the pipe by 20 ÷ 30 mm. They are glued to each other in width. Then, having combined the middle of the tape and the width of the pipe at a height of 150 ÷ 200 mm, the waterproofing is glued to the wall of the chimney and onto a metal sheet previously fixed to the crate on the upper side of the pipe. After that, on a tape glued to the metal, a row of tiles is laid on top. The parts of the tape protruding at the corners are cut, wrapped on the sides of the pipe, and overlapped on the waterproofing already fixed to them. |
 | Some craftsmen prefer to decorate the junction with sheet metal, which is cut into strips of the desired width, mounted according to the same principle as a self-adhesive waterproofing tape. The connection of the edges of the metal at the corners is carried out with the help of rivets and folding. |
 | Having fixed a waterproofing tape or a metal casing around the entire perimeter of the pipe, along its upper line on the pipe walls, a metal profile bar is fixed, pressing the flexible tape to the surfaces of the chimney. Then, the gap remaining between the upper edge of the plank and the wall of the chimney pipe is filled with a roofing sealant. Often a groove is cut through the wall of the pipe, into which the bent edge of this metal tide is inserted. Then the shtraba is sealed with the same sealant. |
 | Next, proceed to work on the ridge knot. First, a perforated sealing ventilation tape made using aluminum and lead is laid on the fixed ridge beam overlapping the top row of tiles. |
 | Due to its flexibility, this ribbon skirt perfectly adapts to the shape of the tiles without much effort. |
 | After the tape has been laid, the end ridge element is screwed on the pediment side of the ridge, and the first ridge tile is tried on to it. |
 | Further, the first tile is removed, and a ridge clamp with a bracket, which comes with the ridge tile, is screwed to the beam fixed on the roof ridge. |
 | Then the first ridge tile is installed in it. Further, it is fastened on the other side with the next clamp using a self-tapping screw. |
  | The next step is to install the second tile into the fixed bracket, which is also fixed at the end with a clamp - and so on, until the ridge is fully formed. |
 | When finished, the roof ridge should look like this illustration. |
 | The final stage in the design of the ridge is the fixing of the second end element. If necessary, the last tile of this row is cut to the desired size. |
 | When all the additional elements of the roofing are installed, the last step to the brackets installed at the bottom of the slope is to fix the lattice barrier that holds back the sliding of snow. |
 | This illustration shows a view of the finished roof slab as viewed from the eaves side. |
 | This is how the roof slope will look with all the elements installed on it. |
After completing the roof covering, you can move to the attic to remove the temporary decking and lay the already stationary wooden floor. Installation begins to be carried out from the side of the attic or from the side of the room. The attic floor also consists of several layers and is arranged in different ways. The main thing is that if the roof is arranged, then work can be carried out slowly, without fear of precipitation on permeable materials and inside the premises.
In conclusion, it is worth emphasizing once again that the installation of a roof is a laborious, responsible and rather dangerous process. Therefore, to carry out the installation of the entire roofing system, it is sometimes better to invite specialists who are professionally engaged in the construction of houses, arrangement and roofing.
Reading time ≈ 10 minutes
The most common option in the construction of private houses is a gable roof, assembled with your own hands from the Mauerlat to the ridge. Below in this article you will find drawings and photos, and detailed step-by-step instructions will help you understand them. You will also learn how high the ridge should be and how it depends on the functionality of the attic, learn how to calculate the thickness and pitch of the truss system.
Classic gable roof
What are the roofs
The main types of roofs of private houses
In order to clearly imagine what a gable roof is, look at what other options are used in the construction of private houses. And this is not all, but the most popular:
- - the easiest coating option for construction in the private sector. It is mainly used for country houses and utility rooms.
- Gable - the most common option for country houses. Despite the apparent simplicity, this type is very practical and beautiful in execution.
- Hip - more suitable for houses with a large area. This design is able to withstand very strong wind loads, up to a storm, thanks to the streamlined shape.
- Half hip - this option is done more for beauty, as this is a prototype of a gable roof with cut corners from the ends of the ridge.
- Hipped - pyramidal shape is suitable for square buildings. In fact, this is a prototype of a hip roof.
- Vaulted - rarely used for residential construction, although it is no exception.
For a rectangular house with an area of 60 to 100 m2, the two-slope option can be called the most suitable - it is easy to perform and inexpensive to implement. In addition, there you can equip not only the attic, but also the attic.
Stages of construction of a gable roof
Now let's figure out how to build a gable roof system in a private house. There are several stages in this process, and we will consider each of them separately.
Calculation of the truss system, taking into account the existing loads
You can not use the formulas for the calculation if you do not make roofs in the future and just download the program (http://srub-banya.by/programs/raschet_stropil.exe). By opening the downloaded file, you will be taken to a page with a menu - it is located in the horizontal line at the top.
Main operating loads:
- Snow cover.
- Wind pressure.
In addition to the main loads, there are also secondary or “default” ones, these are:
- Weight of roofing material.
- Mass of insulation (if provided).
- Own weight of the truss system.
Values:
- S is the load value in kg/m2.
- µ is the coefficient corresponding to the slope angle.
- Sg - snow load standard in kg / m2.
The slope of the slope is expressed in degrees and is denoted by the symbol α (alpha). To determine the value of α, you need to divide the height H by half the span L. Below is a table with the results of determining the main slopes.
In cases where:
- α≤30⁰, µ=1;
- α≥60⁰, µ=0;
- 30°<α<60°, µ = 0,033*(60-α).
Distribution of snow loads in Russia
The map shows eight snow regions, and the Sg value for each is calculated in kPa converted to kg/m2:
- I - 0.8 kPa = 80 kg/m2;
- II - 1.2 kPa = 120 kg / m²;
- III - 1.8 kPa = 180 kg / m²;
- IV - 2.4 kPa = 240 kg / m²;
- V - 3.2 kPa = 320 kg / m²;
- VI - 4.0 kPa = 400 kg / m²;
- VII - 4.8 kPa = 480 kg / m²;
- VIII - 5.6 kPa = 560 kg / m².
For the map above, Appendix 5 of SNiP 2.01.07-85 "Loads and Impacts" is mandatory. And now let's make a trial calculation for Ivanovo (this is the IV district on the map), the value is 240 kg / m².
So: H/L=2.5/3.5=0.714
According to the table α=35⁰. Given that 30°<α<60°, вычисление µ делаем по формуле µ = 0,033·(60-α)=0,033*(50-35)=0,825. Следовательно, S=Sg*µ=240*0,825=198 кг/м², что и есть максимально возможной снеговой нагрузкой.
Wind loads
At steep roofs, where α > 30 °, then the slopes have a large windage. For flat roofs, where α< 30° увеличена турбулентность.
The average value of the wind load Wm at a height Z above the ground is calculated by the formula Wm=Wo*K*C.
In this formula, the value;
- Wo is wind pressure;
- K is the coefficient of change in wind pressure relative to height;
- C is the aerodynamic coefficient.
Wind loads on the territory of the former USSR
Wind pressure standards by region
Coefficient value
Let's make a conditional calculation . The aerodynamic coefficient C can be from -8 when the wind undermines the roof to +0.8 with a large windage (the wind presses on the slope). Considering the conditionality of the calculation, we take C = 0.8.
In the same Ivanovsky district, we take a house where h=6m (α=35⁰). This is region II, where Wo= 30 kg/m², the coefficient is less than 10, which means K=1.0. Therefore: Wm=Wo*K*C=30*1*0.8=24 kg/m².
Roof weight
The mass of the roof varies depending on material
Mass of all components
The conditional calculation for the same house on cement-sand tiles will be:
And here is the calculation for the lightest roofing material, metal tiles:
We calculate the truss system
In this case, we will be guided by GOST 24454-80 for conifers.
| Section width (according to the thickness of the board), B | Section height (along the width of the board), H | ||||||||
| 16 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | — | — | — | — | — |
| 19 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | — | — | — | — |
| 22 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | — | — |
| 25 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 32 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 40 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 44 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 50 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 60 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 75 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 100 | — | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 125 | — | — | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | — |
| 150 | — | — | — | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | — |
| 175 | — | — | — | — | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | — |
| 200 | — | — | — | — | — | 200 | 225 | 250 | — |
| 250 | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | 250 | — |
We take an arbitrary section width and determine the height:
H ≥ 8.6*Lmax*√(Qr/(B* Rbend)), where slope α< 30°,
H ≥ 9.5*Lmax*√(Qr/(B*Rbend)), where Rbend e slope α > 30°.
Values:
- H is the height of the section, cm;
- Lmax - rafter leg of maximum length, m;
- Qr - distributed load per meter of rafter leg, kg / mr;
- B- section width, cm.
For softwood sawn timber Rbend:
- Grade I - 140 kg / cm²;
- II grade - 130 kg / cm²;
- III grade - 85 kg / cm².
Now let's check whether the deflection will fit into the standard, which for all materials under load should not exceed the value L / 200 (L is the length of the working section of the leg). The indicator must correspond to the inequality: 3.125*Qr*(Lmax)³/(B H³) ≤ 1.
Meaning:
We count on the same house in Ivanovo, taking into account the conditions where:
- slope α=35⁰;
- rafter pitch A = 0.8 m;
- working section of the leg Lmax=2.8 m;
- pine timber of the 1st grade Rbend = 140 kg/cm2;
- cement-sand tiles 50 kg/m2.
In the table above we have calculated that with these materials the total load is Q=303 kg/m².
- we calculate the load per running meter of the leg: Qr=A*Q= 0.8*303=242 kg/m running.
- Let's take a board thickness of 5 cm and calculate the cross section along the height: it means: H ≥ 9.5*Lmax* √(Qr/B*Rbend), since the slope α>30°. H≥9.5*2.8*√(242/5*140)=15.6 cm. Based on the table, the board with the nearest section will be 5×17.5 cm.
- We check the inequality: 3.125*Qr*(Lmax)³/B*H³≤1 or 3.125*242*(2.8)³*5*(17.5)³=0.61<1.
As a result, we got a cross section of rafters for erecting a roof of 50 × 175 mm with a step of 80 cm.
Mauerlat installation
Mauerlat on a brick wall
To build a gable roof on your own, you can’t do without a Mauerlat, which is the basis of the truss system. If we are talking about a residential building, then a bar with a section from 50 × 150 mm to 150 × 200 mm is usually used for it (the thicker the wall, the larger the section of the bar in width). A board or beam is mounted on load-bearing walls and fixed with anchors. Given that the Mauerlat will withstand the entire truss system with associated loads, then its installation will directly affect the mechanical strength of the entire roof. Below is a video showing how a Mauerlat is installed on the walls of a block house.
Video: Installing the Mauerlat
Assembling the truss system
Rafter legs are easier to assemble on the ground
A structure such as rafters (2 legs plus additional elements) is most conveniently assembled on the ground, as in the photo above, and not on the roof, so that later it can be lifted with blocks or just ropes, but this is not a requirement. Above, you could learn how to make calculations for such a system, taking into account all the loads, therefore, you already know what section of the boards you will need, what the height of the ridge and the step size will be. At the top, the boards are joined “on the mustache”, and the ridge beam is installed only after the installation of the extreme rafters.
A system without an overhang, where the legs are fixed with different fasteners
Systems with an overhang also have different fasteners.
At the top you see two diagrams showing truss systems without overhang and with overhang, but the most important thing is to pay attention to the method of fastening, or rather, to the fastener itself. This can be a steel corner (preferably reinforced), short stacks, tightening boards, nails, self-tapping screws and staples. This is a very important point, since during turbulence the roof can be blown up, and overturned with a side load, although the result in both cases will be equally deplorable. After installing the side rafters, the ridge beam is fixed, checking the vertical level of each leg.
Watch the video, which explains some of the nuances of editing, but do not forget that each artist may have their own methods, and if you hear or see inconsistencies with your ideas, then this is quite normal.
Video: Installation of the truss system
Roof
Installation of ceramic tiles
Further work on the installation of the truss system depends on what is provided in the attic and what roofing material will be used. For example, if you want to equip an attic there, then it is quite natural that you cannot do without insulation and waterproofing. Also, a certain role will be played by the heating system, or rather, the presence or absence of a chimney, as well as ventilation.
Depending on the choice of roofing material, a crate is made. That is, it can be intermittent, as in the top photo, or solid if you decide to make a roof from shingles. Also, roofs sometimes provide for the installation of a heating cable from icing, and it can be mounted not only from the outside, but also from the inside, laying under the roof.
Conclusion
I hope you understand how to make a gable roof with your own hands - the most important thing is the correct calculations of the pitch, section of the rafter legs and slope. If you are interested in certain points, such as mounting the Mauerlat, rafters or roofing, then these are topics for separate articles, which you can also find on our website.
When building a country house on your own, a lot of money is saved on hiring workers. If you have the skills and tools, most of the work can be done independently. However, when building a roof with your own hands, you will not be able to cope alone. Roofing requires three to four people.
Terminology
Before talking about the installation of the roof, it is worth remembering a few names of structural elements and understanding what they mean:
- Roof - a structure on the top floor of the house, protecting the building from the temperature and atmospheric effects of the environment.
- A roof is the top covering of a roof that directly protects it from rain, snow and hail.
- Mauerlat - a beam or a log (in the case of a wooden structure), a channel, a beam, laid along the outer perimeter of the building, transferring the mechanical load directly to the load-bearing walls.
- Rafters are called inclined bearing parts, as a rule, they are a wooden beam. The purpose of the rafters is to redistribute the load on the load-bearing walls, as well as support the roof.
Roof types
Today, there are many types of roofs - the main ones are one-, two-, four-slope (hip), multi-slope, attic and half-hip. Different types are used depending on the purpose of the premises, as well as on financial capabilities and taste preferences.
Shed roof - the most budget option that does not require large expenditures of materials. As a rule, it is used for garages and outbuildings. However, in order to save money, it is quite possible to block her and a small residential building.
The most common in individual construction is a gable roof. This is due to the simplicity of its arrangement and its versatility. The slope of the gable roof is determined by the distance between the load-bearing walls of the house.
From a geometric point of view, a hipped roof consists of four isosceles triangles converging at its top, and the shape really resembles a tent. It is a design that has not received wide distribution due to the high cost and complexity of manufacturing.
A four-pitched roof differs from a hipped roof by the presence of a ridge at its top. The road to manufacture is also difficult, like the tented one, but we must pay tribute to their appearance - they look gorgeous, and this type of roof most often appears in the photo of expensive country houses.
Multi-pitched roofs are used very rarely, and, as a rule, due to the complex layout of the house, or if there are extensions in the house.
Mansard roofs combine the function of both the roof and the walls of the room. They are much more difficult to manufacture than conventional gables, but are popular due to their practicality. And with a creative approach, having correctly calculated the drawing, the attic can also be organized under a gable roof.
Roof slope calculation
In areas with cold winters and a lot of snow, if the slope is incorrectly calculated, whole snowdrifts will form on the roof. Ultimately, this can end in failure - snow can push through the roof.
When using slate or tiles, you should remember about the joints between sheets and tiles. If the angle is small, then the roof may begin to leak.
The approximate calculation of the roof slope is as follows - for snowy areas at least 40 degrees. The drawings provide such data - gable roofs are placed at a slope of 30-45 degrees, single-pitched - 25-30.
Roof installation
The construction and installation of a gable roof takes place in stages in several steps. The first of these is the installation of the Mauerlat. The Mauerlat is fixed with studs or anchors to the top of the load-bearing wall.
It is important to place the Mauerlat beams in the same plane, preferably in the same horizontal level. They are arranged, ideally, so that the Mauerlat makes up the correct rectangle.
The second stage - truss trusses are assembled, after which the rafters are installed on the floors. First of all, a drawing of the frame is drawn up, the length of the legs of the rafters is calculated, as well as the angle of the connection.
Farm assembly takes place on the ground. First of all, trusses located from the edges are fixed. After their installation, the rest are fixed at an equal distance. Having mounted the trusses, on both sides of the roof, along the upper edge of the slope, a board of 150X50 mm is nailed, 30 cm long more than the length of the cornice.
All wooden elements must be treated with fire protection.
The third stage is the installation of the crate and waterproofing. Waterproofing protects the rafters from getting wet and damp and is located under the crate from the eaves to the ridge.
The crate is made of timber 50X50 mm, and boards 30-40 mm thick, 120-150 mm wide. There must be an air gap between the crate and the waterproofing.
The final stage - a roof is sewn onto the crate (ondulin, slate, tiles are laid, etc.). The pediments are closed with corrugated board, board, clapboard or plywood - depending on artistic preferences and finances. Attach such a sheathing to the side of the rafters with wood screws or nails.
DIY roof photo
Each stage of building a roof with your own hands is equally important and deserves close attention. Today we will talk in detail about each stage from "a" to "z" ... So, we are building the roof of the house with our own hands.
Stages of construction work on the arrangement of the roof with their own hands
Installing Mauerlat
An obligatory stage in the arrangement of the roof in brick and stone, but not in wooden houses.
Mauerlat is the name given to the entire roof truss system. Its installation can be carried out using various methods. But, regardless of the methods of fastening, it is necessary to take into account such parameters as the size of the building and the roof load on it.
So, the rafter system can be attached to the walls by:
- wire, which is wrapped around the Mauerlat and screwed to the wall. This is the simplest and most primitive option, which is used in cases where the roof is light in weight (this method is not considered absolutely reliable!);
- staples. This option is also suitable for buildings with low loads. In order to fix the Mauerlat with brackets, wooden bars are embedded in the masonry of each of the walls. After that, each of the brackets is attached with one side to the Mauerlat, and the other - to the bar;
- hairpins. To ensure such fasteners, studs with a diameter of 10-15 millimeters are used. They are laid in the wall masonry with the points up. Next, the Mauerlat is placed on the edge of the walls and lightly tapped with a hammer until marks from the studs appear on the timber. After that, holes are made in the places of the above marks. Mauerlat is put on studs and twisted with nuts;
- anchor bolts. A concrete belt of such bolts is laid along the edge of each of the walls. In the future, the installation process proceeds similarly to the variant with mounting on studs. Most experts consider this method the most reliable, it is practiced even when arranging the roof in buildings made of lightweight concrete.
We fasten the rafters
One of the main distinguishing features of a good roofing system is a reliable and high-quality fastening of the roof to the main frame of the building.
Currently, various methods of fastening rafters to the strapping of a structure are widely used. In the case of the roof of a wooden house, we cannot use any of the varieties of hanging structures. The rafter beams should only be inclined, and the fasteners must be hinged, due to this combination, a strong and at the same time movable fastener is provided, which is ideal in conditions of shrinkage of the frame of a wooden building.
Roofing work in brick and stone buildings suggest rigid fastening of the rafters to the Mauerlat. Here, inclined or hanging fastening systems with or without a notch can be used.
Fastening with a notch implies a tight fit of the rafters to the Mauerlat. For this purpose, truss beams are hemmed in a certain way. Elements for the removal of cornices are overlapped. Rigid fixation of structural nodes is carried out by means of staples, screws or nails.
The mounting option without cutting is more technologically simple. The density of the junction of the rafters is ensured by persistent boards and bars, and the structural units are attached using metal corners.
We strengthen the design
Installing additional structural elements (struts, racks, etc.) is a proven way to increase the reliability of the roof structure. However, in this context, one should not forget about the features of the layout and interior of the building. Therefore, it is important to remember the following rules:
- The struts should be placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees with respect to the horizontal plane.
- Support posts should not be installed on floor spans. Racks should be located on walls or beams and springs (between the walls of the house).
- In order to prevent the possible process of divergence of the rafter beams, special puffs are used.
We arrange the crate
The choice of the type of lathing is largely due to the characteristics of the material for the roof. In the event that it is planned to install a metal roof, the choice of a sparse non-continuous crate will be optimal. And for a soft bituminous roof, a continuous crate is ideal.
We equip ventilation
The under-roof space must be ventilated to protect the roof from mold, fungi and other unpleasant surprises.
For the ventilation device we:
- we ensure the flow of air through the cornices, using special perforated spotlights or simply sparse boards;
- we provide a gap of two to three centimeters between the layers of insulation and roofing materials for better circulation of the air flow;
- we carry out work on the installation of a special aerator in order to ensure the release of air in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge.
Remember that a properly arranged ventilation system protects the roof from destructive processes.
The choice of roofing materials- one of the main points in the long chain of all the above works. Currently, any serious manufacturer attaches the most detailed instructions for laying the roof to each name of the material sold.
Currently at the peak of popularity are the following roofing:
- corrugated board;
- ondulin;
- flexible (soft) tiles;
- seam tiles;
- metal tile.
The roof is one of the most important parts of a house. The durability of its operation depends on how correct its installation will be. Otherwise, you will have to dismantle it after a year. A variety of materials and designs also dictates how the roof will be built with your own hands. It also depends on the house itself: its size, the design of the walls.
The aesthetic component is also important, because someone likes a flat roof, someone prefers complex structures. In general, the roof of a private house with your own hands is an excellent solution in terms of budget and practicality, if you have free time for this. 
Before you decide on the materials and installation methods, you should familiarize yourself with the instructional videos “we build the roof of the house with our own hands”, which describe in detail about the specific choice and how the work is carried out, as well as see a photo of the roof of the house with your own hands. This will help you understand what to choose, and you can better prepare for the work. In general, the whole process can be divided into the following stages:
- Choice of design and materials;
- Mauerlat mount;
- Installation of the frame and reinforcement of the roof. At this stage, a do-it-yourself truss roof is being erected;
- Sheathing and ventilation;
- Installation of drips and roofing;
- Cornice filing;
- Warming.
The roof can be one-, two-, three- and four-pitched. The first option is the simplest and saves on material. 
What needs to be remembered?
If you decide that the roof of the house with your own hands is quite realistic, then follow these tips:
- to begin with, a roof project is being prepared, according to which all work will be carried out;
- it is worth looking at the forums how certain materials look over time;
- it is important to choose the correct angle of inclination of the roof - with an unacceptable slope, the materials will behave differently;
- you should choose those materials for which a guarantee is provided. In other cases, one cannot count on the high quality of the erected structure.
In this article we will tell you how the roof of a private house is built with your own hands. Statistics show that almost every third homeowner built their own home. And this stage is often the most difficult in the whole process. To do this, you need to know and understand what nuances may arise, as well as successfully deal with them. Therefore, we advise you to carefully study the materials relating to the installation of various roofs, the technology of their installation and the order of work. Then the construction of the roof of a private house with your own hands will be easy and without any problems. 
Before designating the stages of construction, it is necessary to decide what the shape of the roof will be. She may be:
- one-, two- or four-slope;
- broken line;
- multi-forceps.
A shed roof is the easiest to perform, and will also allow you to save materials. The frame can be made independently, besides, it is quickly mounted. But it must be remembered that with this choice, the possibility of arranging the attic disappears.
The gable roof, in turn, is more popular, but it is more difficult to manufacture. Thanks to her, you can decorate the attic by placing, for example, guest rooms on the floor. A four-pitched roof is more difficult to implement, as it has more components. 
Work order
As for the step-by-step instructions for performing the work, it looks like this:
- To begin with, the dimensions of the building are determined, on which, accordingly, the size of the roof also depends.
- Then materials are purchased.
- After that, a Mauerlat is attached to the wall.
- The final stage is the direct installation of the frame and roof.
It is necessary to take into account how and where the ventilation will be located, to ensure proper waterproofing: it is better to take care of this in advance so that you do not have to carry out repairs or, even worse, redo all the work. Also, before you start building the roof of a private house with your own hands, we recommend that you look at various reference materials, as well as consult with experts.
Video: Do-it-yourself roof of a private house
With this material they read the same:
Any building consists of three main parts - the supporting structure, the box and the upper structure. It is the upper structure that determines the functionality of the building, its reliability and comfort of living. However, it may well be done by hand, if you study the features and principles of building the roof of the house.
Types of roofs
Depending on the shape of the structure of the building box and its size, various roof structures are used, many of which can be made by hand.
gable roofs
The most common house roof structures that are easy to calculate and do it yourself.
The angle of inclination of the rafter legs varies in the range of 20 - 50 °, it is selected depending on the magnitude of wind and snow loads acting in the construction region. Making such a roof with your own hands is not difficult. The simplicity of the design allows you to correctly calculate the need for materials, avoiding overspending.
hip roofs
Such structures differ from gable structures - the presence of additional side planes with a certain slope.
Danish hip - the roof of the house is formed in such a way that only part of the pediment is cut off. This is done in the case when it is necessary to increase the volume of the attic room.
The rounding of the roof in its lower part is an atypical case, usually all slopes are straight.
Norwegian hip - the roof is made with an overlap in the upper part of the pediment, which makes it possible, in particular, to arrange a canopy over the balcony or loggia elements of the building.
Multi-pitched roofs - such a roof is arranged for purely design reasons, without sacrificing its functional qualities. At the same time, truss systems are designed using computer programs, and execution is hardly possible with your own hands without special skills. Such roofs can only be properly made by qualified specialists.
For the final coating of such roofs, small-format materials in the form of tiles are used as the final outer coating. Large format materials can be used inefficiently.
Rafter systems
The upper structure of the building is a complex structure, which consists of a number of elements:
Installation of the hip roof truss system
Before proceeding with it, you need to properly organize the workplace:
- put the ceiling beams in place and fix them;
- lay a draft attic floor in accordance with the project.
As a preparatory measure, it is imperative to make a draft design of the truss system, which will allow you to correctly calculate the need for materials depending on the angle of inclination of the slopes, using graph paper, a pencil and a ruler, you can prepare drawings of the main elements of details on the roof of the house with your own hands.
Installation of the spinal beam (ridge beam)
With a symmetrical installation of slopes, the axis of the ridge beam will pass strictly along the longitudinal axis of the building:
- using the dimensions from the draft design, you need to cut out and install in place the bed - the supporting element of the ridge beam through the racks;
- cut out the racks, install them on the bed and fix them vertically with temporary jibs;
- install the ridge beam on the racks and fix it to the racks using plates and self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50mm. Make fasteners on both coinciding planes (4 places);
- carefully set the resulting structure along the longitudinal axis of the building, check the verticality, finally fix the racks on the bed with metal corners (8 places - 4 plates and 4 corners);
- cut in place and install the rafters connecting the ridge beam with the Mauerlat corners, fasten with plates and corners. If all the diagonal rafters are the same size, the symmetrical roof is correct;
- rafter legs must be installed in cuts to ensure emphasis on the ridge beam and Mauerlat. Therefore, it is advisable to pre-make an appropriate template from a lighter board (25 mm) and cut rafter legs along it;
- the installation step of the rafters is best coordinated with the width of the insulation from which the roofing cake will be formed. This will save materials and time in its manufacture;
- after installing the rafters, it is advisable to immediately install the stiffening elements of the system - struts and trusses, the parts are cut out in place;
- sprigs are also made locally, taking into account the dimensions of the insulation and are installed with fastening through the plates;
- the entire truss system along the perimeter of the building must be cut, taking into account the size of the overhang along the cord. If necessary, to increase the overhang, filly can be installed - rafter extensions.
Continuation of work depends on the prevailing weather conditions. If the weather is stable and the forecast is favorable, you can begin to form a roofing pie. Otherwise, this operation can be performed after installing the roof finish, from the inside.
Formation of the roofing cake
The purpose of this element is heat saving in the house. It is calculated that in houses with insulated attics, heating costs are reduced by 20 - 25%. Thus, the cost of insulation will return in the form of savings due to energy consumption.
The order of work is as follows:
- Carry out padding of the supporting boards from the inside for laying insulation. Material - edged or unedged board 25 mm thick, width no more than 150 mm, sanding is required.
- Lay a layer of steam protection using polyethylene film. It must be overlapped with an overlap of at least 10 cm, it is desirable to glue the joints with construction tape.
- Lay the insulation material on top. When choosing it for the roof, you need to take into account the characteristics of the material. Fibrous materials tend to absorb water, while they form lumps, and the water deteriorates, an unpleasant putrefactive odor appears, damage to wooden structures is very likely. Therefore, for a roofing cake, tile materials such as foam plastic and the like are preferred.
- A waterproof membrane must be laid on top of the insulation, its feature is the one-sided passage of water and moisture. The matte front surface does not allow water to pass through from the outside, and moisture from the inside freely moves through microscopic holes into the air, so the roofing cake undergoes regular drying.
crate
This element is the bearing surface for the finishing roofing, in addition, it holds together the entire structure of the upper structure of the house.
The crate happens:
- solid - the distance between individual boards can be 5 - 10 mm;
- sparse - the distance between individual elements is up to 250 mm;
- rare - the distance between the boards is up to 900 mm;
- counter-lattice - is performed to provide a ventilation opening under the finish coating of corrugated board or tiles.
A continuous crate is used when using small-format materials such as tiles as a finishing coating.
The material for the lathing is usually a cut or unedged board with a thickness of 25 mm. Do not use boards with a width of more than 15 cm, constantly exposed to moisture, the boards of the crate are warped. The result may be swelling of individual elements of the roof with a violation of its continuity. The crate on the roof of the house, due to the ease of execution, can be done with your own hands.
Roof top coat installation
Depending on the complexity, the roof of the house can be entrusted to specialists, and a simple gable roof can be properly covered with your own hands. In the process of framing and installing the finishing coat, it is necessary to observe the order in which additional elements are installed on the roof, to do individual work out of turn, sometimes it is simply impossible without violating the mating elements.
Additional premises
When attaching additional verandas or rooms to the house, it must be borne in mind that the foundation in the extension will live an independent life for at least another five years. The roof will behave accordingly. Therefore, on the extension, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of free movement of its elements without losing the basic qualities.
Conclusion
Completion of construction is a crucial stage, however, even before starting work, it must be remembered that all wood used in structures must undergo antiseptic and fire-fighting treatment. Otherwise, all costs may be in vain.
When starting to do the work with your own hands, you need to understand that each step needs to be considered and analyzed. I wish you success!
