How to plant beets so as not to thin out? How to grow healthy beetroot seedlings How to transplant beets after thinning.

more demanding on heat than other root crops, its seedlings do not tolerate frost, and a prolonged decrease in soil temperature to + 4 ... + 5 ° C leads to flowering. For this reason, beets are sown in open ground at a later date, only when the soil warms up to + 8 ... + 10 ° С. In the middle lane, in the North-West, in the Moscow region, in the Urals, this is usually mid-late May. But if you plant beets with seedlings, sowing can be done in the spring in April, in a greenhouse or at home. The seedling method allows you to get the first root crops 18-25 days earlier than after sowing beets immediately into the ground.

Is it possible to plant beet seedlings?

Beets at an early age tolerate transplantation well, so for earlier production it can be grown through seedlings. Planting beet seedlings allows you to harvest the first harvest in July, when fresh vegetables are expensive on the market. In addition, when growing seedlings, beetroot beds do not need to be thinned out, and many gardeners find this method less laborious than the traditional one.

When to sow beets for seedlings at home

Some articles advise sowing early in the spring, in March. But keep in mind that beets do not like frost very much. In the Urals, in Siberia in the middle lane, it will still have to be planted in the garden no earlier than mid-May. With prolonged cultivation at home on the windowsill, beet seedlings are drawn out, and the yield of future plants is reduced. Therefore, for planting in open ground, it is better to sow beet seedlings in mid-April.

If you have free space for beets in a greenhouse or in, then you can grow some seedlings a month earlier. Beets for greenhouses are sown at the end of March, and planted in a permanent place around the end of April.

Sowing beets for seedlings

Soil for sowing beets for seedlings. For sowing seeds, you can use from the store or prepare the soil mixture yourself. To do this, mix 2 parts, 1 part or well-rotted, 1 part soddy or garden soil and 0.5 parts of washed sand. Beets do not like, so you need to add 0.5 cups to the mixture for every 5 liters of the mixture. Ash will serve as a good fertilizer for beet seedlings, as it contains all the nutrients except nitrogen. Sift the mixture and steam it in a double boiler for an hour.

Steaming can be replaced by spilling the soil directly in the sowing bowl with a fungicide solution ("Vitaros", "Maxim", "Fitosporin"). Seeds must be treated with a fungicide solution according to the instructions, this will protect the beets from being affected by phomosis. With phomosis, root crops are poorly stored: voids and rot form in them.

Fill the bowl with the soil mixture, compact it with a plank and spread the treated seeds on the surface.

Sowing seeds. Seeds can be sown dry, but germinated seeds will sprout faster, in addition, unsimilar ones can be immediately discarded.

From above, cover the crops with a soil mixture with a layer of 1-1.5 cm. Level, compact the surface so that the soil does not erode during irrigation.

Water the crops, making sure that the seeds do not get on the surface of the soil.

Sprinkle some more soil on top if necessary. Cover beet crops with glass or put in a plastic bag and put in a bright, warm place. The temperature of the content of beets before germination is + 18 ... + 20 ° С. After seedlings appear on the soil surface, it is desirable to reduce the temperature to + 14 ... + 16 ° С.

Dive beets in the stage of cotyledon leaves.

Beetroot seedlings - conditions and care

Picking seedlings of beets. If the dishes for sowing were deep and spacious, and the crops were rare, then you can do without. In order not to dive beets, it can also be sown in purchased or home-made seedling cassettes, but then it will take up a lot of space at home on the windowsill.

Considering that most varieties of beets from one seed produce several sprouts, when grown without picking, seedlings must be thinned out, and seedlings removed during thinning can be used for additional planting.

During picking, use the land of the same composition as for sowing, adding 1 tbsp. l. nitroammophoski for 5 liters of the mixture. Pour the pickled seedlings.

So that beet seedlings do not stretch. Beets are a very light-loving plant, so when growing a house on a windowsill, especially at high temperatures, it stretches. If you have the opportunity, then a week after picking, it is advisable to place the box in a greenhouse, covering it from direct sunlight for the first time.

Top dressing. Once every 2 weeks, feed beet seedlings with liquid (Fertika, Weaving, Krepysh)

Planting beet seedlings in open ground

When to plant. When the seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings are ready for planting in open ground.

It is important that the beetroot seedlings do not overgrow. If the roots rest against the bottom of the box, then later the root crops may turn out to be irregular in shape. Seedlings are planted in the garden around mid-May, when the soil warms up to at least + 10 ° C.

How to prepare the soil for planting beets. Choose the sunniest place for the beet garden, because even partial shading will lead to crop loss. Beets are sensitive to fertility, so the soil must be saturated with organic matter. For 1 sq. m, it is necessary to add at least 3 kg of humus or well-decomposed compost and 30-40 g of complete mineral fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Beets love slightly acidic or neutral soils. If the soil in your area is acidic, be sure to add 300-400 g of wood ash or 200 g per 1 sq. m. After that, dig up the bed no less than a shovel bayonet, since the root system of the beet lies deep enough.

Planting beets. It is best to plant beets under drizzling rain. If the weather is dry and hot, then try to plant seedlings in the evening and cover them with non-woven covering material for the first 2-3 days until they take root.

Make holes of such depth that the roots are located there evenly, without bends.

Water the seedlings immediately after planting.

In hot weather, in the first few days, water the beet seedlings daily until they are fully rooted. After rooting, water infrequently, but abundantly depending on the weather. Constant severe waterlogging leads to beet scab disease and yield loss during storage.

Keep the soil loose and weed regularly.

Beet top dressing it is best to make an infusion (1:6), which, in addition to the main elements, contains boron, molybdenum, copper and other trace elements necessary to obtain high-quality, sweet root crops. If you use mineral supplements, then keep in mind that nitrogen is most needed for beets at the beginning of growth. Then, when the root crop becomes the size of a walnut, nitrogen begins to accumulate in the beets in the form of nitrates. Therefore, nitrogen fertilizers at the beginning of cultivation are applied in fractional portions, and when the beet leaves close up, they switch to fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. With a lack of boron in the root crops, voids and corking are formed. To avoid this, in cloudy weather, make foliar top dressing on the leaves (2 g of boric acid per bucket of water. To increase the sugar content of root crops, beets are watered twice a season with a solution of sodium nitrate (1 tablespoon per bucket of water) or a solution of non-iodized common salt (1-2 tablespoons per bucket of water).

Useful advice: beets grow better if planted in one row along the edge of other crops ( , ) .

Against the background of a huge number of varieties of garden strawberries, the ampelous variety stands out. This strawberry with uncharacteristic pink, very decorative flowers is easily recognizable by both fruit-bearing mother plants and rosettes extending from them. After reviewing the care of her, having studied the rules of cultivation and looking at the photo, you can safely proceed to planting this unusual berry crop.

If an ordinary strawberry bears fruit once a season, a remontant two, then it can be said about an ampelous strawberry that it is able to bear fruit throughout the year.

Thanks to the work of breeders, ampelous strawberries grow before flower stalks are formed, flower buds are laid on them and, accordingly, an additional crop ripens. Further, the mustache itself continues to form the following. As a result, one bush can be continuously harvested.

In addition, this variety has excellent decorative qualities and can serve as a wonderful decoration for a balcony, veranda, etc.

Advice. For growing in a room, it is better to select varieties of neutral daylight hours that have a very long fruiting period.

In some sources, you can find it under the name "curly", but this is not entirely correct. By nature, strawberries cannot wrap themselves around anything. Some gardeners, for decorative purposes, simply tie a mustache with rosettes to a support. At the same time, it seems that the strawberry itself “climbs” up.

Ampel strawberry continuously yields

If you plant several bushes in a flowerpot or hanging pot, the rosettes will fall very beautifully from the mother plant, creating cascades of leaves, flowers and berries.

When considering the fruiting of ampelous varieties, it can be unequivocally stated that this is a remontant variety. On the bush at the same time you can see buds, flowers and berries. Thanks to this, in appropriate conditions, it is possible to observe flowering and pick berries almost all year round. Popular varieties:

• Homemade delicacy;
• Temptation;
• Tarpan;
• Elan;
• Novel;
• balcony stream;
• Balcony charm.

Almost all of them are hybrids that are adapted to growing in any conditions, resistant to some diseases and give a decent harvest. I would especially like to note the Tuscany variety. Despite its recent appearance, it has already gained worldwide recognition. It differs in rich pink flowers and rather large fragrant berries.

Growing Options

If you show imagination and make very little effort, then bushes of ampelous strawberries can become a wonderful decoration for the site.

Ampel strawberries can be grown even in an apartment

• Growing in pots and vases. In this case, any containers can be used for landing. For the normal development of the plant, their depth must be at least 30 cm. A mandatory requirement is holes for water drainage and a drainage layer. Seedlings intended for planting should be sprinkled with earth and kept for two weeks in a dark, cool place. Planting plants in a pot should not be too dense and not very deep.

Advice. A lush strawberry bush grown by hand in a hanging planter can be a wonderful gift for a novice gardener.

• Grid growing. As a lattice, you can use a metal mesh, wicker fence, etc. Bushes are planted in the soil 30 cm apart. Growing mustaches are tied up along the lattice.

Advice. The height of the lattice should be selected no more than 1 m. So the plants will be able to completely cover it with fruit-bearing and flowering bushes at the same time.

• Landing in the form of a pyramid. For such a landing, you will need 3-4 boxes 30 cm high, without a bottom, of different sizes. The largest is placed on the ground in the garden and covered with fertile soil. A second, smaller one is placed on top and is also filled with earth. The smallest of them is placed on top. Soil is also poured into it. It turns out a cascade of boxes in which seedlings are planted. After growing, this structure looks like a green pyramid, covered with flowers and berries.
• Vertical beds. This method is used for growing ampelous strawberries in greenhouses. They are made from wide plastic pipes (diameter about 110 cm). Holes are cut into them after a certain interval, into which, after filling the pipe with nutrient soil, seedlings are planted.

How to plant seedlings

Planting ampelous varieties does not differ much from planting other types of strawberries.

1. The bottom of the pot or groove in the bed is lined with drainage material.
2. From above it is covered with nutrient soil, consisting of soddy soil, humus, manure and peat.
3. Well watered. After the soil settles, the earth is filled up.
4. Landing holes are being made.
5. One plant is distributed in each well.
6. The roots are pressed with wet earth so that the core remains at the top.

Advice. In order for the seedlings to take root faster, it is advisable to dip each rhizome in a clay mash.

How to care

Planted seedlings need frequent moisture. It should be watered 2 times a day a little. After 2 weeks, watering is reduced - it will be enough 1 time in 3 days. The first flower stalks are removed. So the plant will give all its strength to the development of the root system, which will make the plant strong.

Strawberries need regular hydration

Mustaches on each bush should remain no more than 5 pcs. All excess is plucked off. Top dressing is carried out regularly with mineral fertilizers.

Ampelous strawberry transplantation must be carried out every 3-4 years. In the spring, the antennae are plucked from the strongest bushes and transplanted to a new bed or into a new container. In the case of a flower bed, you can completely replace the soil and plants.

For the winter, you can not leave containers with strawberries on the street. All of them need to be brought into a warm room. If this is not possible, the container is dug into the ground and covered with a covering material.

For beds protruding above ground level, special frames are constructed, the surface of which is covered with roofing material, lutrasil, etc., and then sprinkled with something insulating, for example, sawdust, straw or hay.

Ampel strawberry is an amazing plant that can become a real decoration of a balcony, backyard or room. And all this is combined with a long period of enjoyment of fragrant and tasty berries.

Features of planting ampelous strawberries: video

Root crops have one feature: they form seeds so small that it is impossible to sow them with normal planting density (celery, parsley, radishes, carrots, and others) or form seedlings (beets), from which several sprouts of closely spaced plants grow. As a rule, dense plantings drastically reduce the quality, and hence the quantity, of the crop. Root crops are twisted, horned, small, often tasteless. For root crops, thinning of plantings is a very important technique. But it cannot be done as and when necessary. It is timely and high-quality thinning that will allow you to get the desired full-fledged harvest.

Adrienne Bruno

General thinning rules

To obtain the required plant density, the seeding rate of root crops (involuntarily) is increased by 4-6 times. To create an optimal feeding area for plants, it is necessary to carry out 2-3, and sometimes 4 breakthroughs of seedlings and plants, in accordance with agrotechnical requirements.

• The first breakthrough is always done in the cotyledon leaflet phase or after the formation of the first true leaflet. If the shoots are uneven, then the first breakthrough is carried out in the phase of the cotyledon fork, without waiting for the formation of cotyledon leaves or a week after mass shoots. In order not to pull out extra seedlings, thinning is performed more often by pinching seedlings near the ground itself or using tweezers to remove them.
• The second breakthrough is usually carried out after 15-20-30 days or, according to the requirements of agricultural technology, in the appropriate phase. In this thinning, strong plants are left, and weak ones are removed. Between plants should remain 0.5-1.0-1.5 cm and no more, because due to different weather conditions, diseases, pest attacks, thinning can occur. With a sparse standing density, plants also form poor-quality root crops, and the yield decreases.
• The third breakthrough is actually the formation of the final (required) standing density. The distance between root crops is 4-6-8 cm. If agricultural technology provides for reusable harvesting (for example: on a bunch of carrots, young beet root crops), then the most developed plants are removed, the rest are left for growing.

The next breakthroughs are actually multiple selective harvesting.

mass travel

Thinning individual crops

Thinning beetroot

When planting beets with seedlings, each forms 5-6 seedlings. The beets are thinned twice. Preliminary watering is carried out, which allows you to pull out the plant without damaging the root system next to the growing crop.

According to the cultivation technology, beets are thinned out during the growing season 2 times:

• the first breakthrough is carried out in the phase of 1-2 leaves, removing the weakest, underdeveloped plants from the sowing. Plants are left in a row after 3-4 cm. If the beets have sprouted unevenly, then thinning is transferred to a later time and performed in the phase of 2-3 leaves. These plants are excellent seedlings that often produce a higher quality crop than direct seeding. If there is no separate bed for this seedling, plant it along the edges of the beds with other crops (carrots, onions).
• The second thinning is carried out in the phase of 3-5 developed leaves. By this time, the root crop has a diameter of up to 3-5 cm and can be used as a young root crop of beam ripeness. When thinning, the tallest root crop is pulled out, and the small ones are left to grow for the next thinning or selective harvesting. When thinning, the distance is left 6-8 cm, and late varieties (for storage) up to 10 cm in diameter.

Eric Fung

thinning carrots

Capricious, but necessary in our menu, culture. Small seeds germinate for a long time. So that the seedlings do not turn out to be sparse, an increased seed rate is usually sown. Since carrots are sown in several terms with a run of 10-12 days, and thinning is one of the important agricultural practices, there is enough fuss with carrot beds in the summer. 3 thinnings are carried out on carrots, and with repeated selective harvesting, their number reaches 5-6.

• Carrots do not tolerate thickening, so the first thinning begins 1-2 weeks after receiving mass seedlings. In thickened places, several plants break through at once, leaving a distance of 1.0-2.0 cm no more in a row. Do not forget to carry out after a breakthrough, top dressing, watering plants and light hilling. They are necessary to protect plants from carrot flies.
• The second thinning is carried out when the root crop reaches a diameter of 1.5-2.0 cm (beam ripeness phase).
• The third breakthrough is final. By this time, the final standing density is formed on the carrots and the distance in the row is at least 6-8 cm. Root crops with a diameter of 5 cm are harvested. At a smaller distance, the root crops will be small. When breaking through, the largest root crops are harvested, since by the final harvest they are strongly outgrown, the flesh becomes coarse and not so sweet and tasty. The final cleaning is carried out in the third decade of September. Earlier final harvesting of carrots reduces its yield.

Russell Butcher

Thinning parsley

Favorite spicy-tasting and vegetable culture. Agrotechnics of sowing and thinning repeats carrots in everything. The difference is only in the timing of seedlings. If carrots sprout in 5-7 days, then parsley in 15-20, and in dry years - in 25 days. It is best to sow parsley in the form of compacted crops, mixing parsley seeds with radish or salad seeds. These cultures germinate in 3-7 days and serve as markers for sowing parsley. By their harvest, shoots of the main crop just appear.

In garden plots, root and leaf varieties of this crop are usually grown. Both of them use the above-ground mass and the root crop, which is more pronounced in root parsley. Parsley is thinned and selectively harvested throughout the warm season as needed. By autumn, 5-8 cm are left between plants. With such a density of standing, the root crop of root parsley retains all its valuable qualities (sweet fragrant pulp, root crop without cracks, even shape).

Parsley plants, seeded or left unharvested for the winter, form young shoots and edible roots, which are also thinned out.

Lotus Johnson

Radish thinning

Of the early root crops, the most common is the radish. Cold-resistant and early ripening, it provides the family with a fresh vitamin salad from early spring. It is sown at a temperature of +10..+11*C and harvested after 25-35 days. Like carrots, radishes are sown at several times (only during the cold period of time in spring and autumn) with a run-up of 5-7 days, which prolongs the time for obtaining fresh products.

Radish thinning is carried out twice::

• a week after mass shoots, underdeveloped, stunted plants or noticeable flower beds are pulled out. Leave a distance in the row of 1.5-2.0 cm.
• The second thinning is carried out with a root diameter of 4-5 cm and after a few days the root crops are harvested.

librariansarah

It is not possible to describe thinning periods for all vegetable crops grown through seed sowing. Above are the data of the most common vegetable and spice crops. Tentatively, all root crops are thinned out 2-3 times. The first breakthrough is carried out after mass shoots not earlier than 2-3 weeks. The second - during the formation of a root crop of beam ripeness used for food (radish). The third - if necessary, the final formation of the density of standing (carrots, beets). Moreover, the standing density depends on the size of the root crop of a standard size (for example, the diameter of carrots is 5-6 cm, beets 9-10 cm, radishes 2-3 cm).

Beet seedlings are grown in order to ensure good yields, besides, growing beet seedlings will make it possible to get a harvest much earlier. Growing beets is very common in the household. This root vegetable contains quite a lot of vitamins, so it is very useful when eating it.

How to grow seedlings of beets.

In order to get seedlings of beets, you must first soak the seeds in water. After the seeds have been saturated with water, a greenhouse or greenhouse should be prepared in order to sow the seeds.

You can also sow the seeds in boxes on the windowsills. For sowing, deepenings are made in the ground in rows, it is worth leaving a distance of at least 5 cm between them.

After the seedling sprouts and a true leaf appears on the seedling, it needs to be thinned out. If you grow seedlings in a box or greenhouse, then you need to make sure that it does not outgrow. The roots of overgrown seedlings rest against the bottom of the box and subsequently an irregularly shaped root crop can be obtained.

How to plant seedlings on the site.

In order to get a good harvest of beets, you need to allocate a sufficient area for seedlings to feed. Seedlings are planted in rows, the distance between rows should be about 40 cm, and between seedlings in a row at least 7 cm.

When transplanting, some seedlings may not take root, this may be due to a damaged root. The root can be damaged when the seedlings are removed from the greenhouse. In order for the place where the seedling disappeared to be empty, you can plant a new seedling.

How to care for beets from seedlings.

To care for beets from seedlings, you do not need to learn special growing techniques. Such beets need to be looked after, as well as for usually planted. It is sometimes necessary to feed the soil where the beets grow, watering the roots of the plant with a special solution with a watering can.

The main thing is to prevent the solution from getting on the beet leaves, but if this still happened, then you need to wash off the solution from the leaves with plain water. Also, do not forget about pests, if pests attack seedlings, it is worth treating it with a solution that will destroy pests. After the crop grows, you can repeat the planting of beet seedlings, but you need to take into account the fact that the crop should grow before the first frost.

Growing beet seedlings

Most gardeners sow beet seeds in open ground with the first heat, but this method has its drawbacks. So, despite the fact that the beet is quite cold-resistant, the germination of seeds at a low soil temperature is sometimes delayed up to three weeks (at +5 ° C).

If the temperature rises to + 10 ° C, the germination period is reduced to one and a half to two weeks, and at + 20-25 ° C, beets germinate in three to four days. It should also be borne in mind that a too cold germination period can stimulate the shooting of plants, and then instead of juicy root crops you will get a bountiful harvest of seeds. Based on this, some gardeners practice planting beet seedlings on their plots.

As it turned out, beets perfectly tolerate transplantation at a young age. Therefore, for seedlings, it should be sown in a greenhouse or seedling box about 30-40 days before planting in open ground.

In this case, the seedlings will have 5-6 true leaves and will take root perfectly in the garden. In addition, the seedling method of planting beets will make it possible to save seed material. The fact is that one beet seed contains up to 5-6 sprouts, which cannot be separated before planting.

Therefore, when thinning the beds, most of the sprouts have to be removed. If you use the seedling method, you will need 3-4 times less seeds than usual.

Sowing seeds in a seed box

Before sowing seedlings, the seeds must be calibrated, selecting the largest and most viable for planting. It is also necessary to pickle them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate in order to destroy possible pests and pathogens.

You should know that beets tolerate dives perfectly, so they can be sown for seedlings first in a seedling box located in a warm room. Sow beets at the rate of 14 grams of dry seeds per square meter of soil.

Sowing time is quite early: depending on the climatic zone - from the end of March to mid-April. When the plants have thrown out two or three true leaves, they can be dived into a greenhouse.

Diving into the greenhouse

A place for a greenhouse is prepared in advance by digging a ditch about a meter wide and about 40 cm deep. The ditch is filled with organic debris: last year's grass, fallen leaves, fragments of branches, etc.

2-3 days before planting the seedlings, the garbage is poured abundantly with hot water and covered with a layer of garden soil about 20 cm thick, covered with a film on top. By the time the seedlings are planted, the process of decomposition of organic matter is already in full force, heating the greenhouse from below.

Seedlings dive, choosing strong strong plants, and plant them at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other. Dive beet transfers perfectly and quickly grows, throwing out the tops.

Planting beet seedlings in the ground

Transplantation into the ground is carried out when the night cold season ends. Beds for beets are prepared in the fall, adding a sufficient amount of humus or compost to the soil, and if necessary, making them lime with dolomite flour or a weak solution of lime.

It should be remembered that beets love loose, light soil - this is especially important for those vegetable growers who have heavy clay or chernozem soils on the site. From the greenhouse, beet seedlings are planted in the ground with a clod of earth so as not to damage the root system of plants. Planting is carried out at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other, so that the plants have free space for growth.

Often, beets are planted in the aisles of cucumber beds or as a border to other ridges and irrigation ditches. In the first days after planting, it is advisable to shade the bed to give the beets the opportunity to adapt to a new place. Caring for beet seedlings is no different from caring for ordinary plantings.

Be sure to monitor sufficient soil moisture and water as it dries. Loosening the row spacing is a very important procedure that allows you to provide the root system with free access to air, preventing the beds from drying out quickly and destroying weeds.

In addition, one should not forget about feeding beet beds with mineral or organic fertilizers. With proper care, beet seedlings allow you to get the first harvest 3-4 weeks earlier than with conventional cultivation.

Secrets of successful gardeners

Growing beet seedlings

It is possible to grow beet seedlings not only in the northern regions with a short growing season. Young plants tolerate transplanting very easily.

Properly prepared and soaked beet seeds are sown for seedlings 30-40 days before planting seedlings in open ground. Seeds are sown either in a box on the windowsill, or in a greenhouse, or in a greenhouse under a marker with a distance between rows of 5-7 cm.

They consume up to 1 g of seeds per 1 m of a row or 8-10 g per 1 m?. The optimum temperature for germination is +18 - +20 °C, and then it is lowered to +14 - +16 °C.

When the first true leaf appears, the seedlings are thinned out. When sowing glomeruli in a row at a distance of 2-3 cm from one another or single-seeded beets at such a distance, thinning is not required. Plant seedlings in open ground or under a film when two or three true leaves are formed in plants.

When growing beet seedlings in a greenhouse or a box, it is important to prevent it from overgrowing. If the roots of the plants begin to rest against the bottom of the box and bend, then an irregularly shaped root crop will subsequently form. Seedling output averages 600-700 plants per 1 m².

Beetroot seedlings in the garden allocate a sufficient feeding area. The distance between plants in a row should be at least 8 cm, and between rows 30-40 cm. The yield of leaves and bunched roots with seedlings in central Russia can be obtained 18-25 days earlier than when sowing in open ground.

Leaves and beam roots of seedling beets are obtained in the second half of April, and when sowing seeds in open ground - only in the second decade of May. Care of plants from seedlings is the same as for ordinary plantings. It is important that the nutrient solution does not fall on the leaves when feeding.

Therefore, they water the plants from the watering can, between the rows, closer to the roots. If the solution gets on the leaves, then it is carefully washed off with clean water. Leaves with root crops are removed, knitted in bunches and stored in a cool place.

It is possible to maintain a continuous conveyor of young leaves and roots of beets by constant overseeding of beets. Beets are sown on a cleaned place throughout the summer 25-30 days before the expected first autumn frosts, as well as at the expense of winter and early spring crops. At the beginning of growth, when the first cotyledon leaves appear, the beet does not tolerate shading.

At this time, overgrowing of crops with weeds is especially dangerous. Therefore, it is important not to be late with thinning seedlings and weeding. When sowing multi-seeded varieties, seedlings in rows are thickened and especially need thinning.

When thinning, the plants are left in a row at a distance of 5-8 cm from each other. If the seedlings are sparse or uneven, it is possible to transplant them from thickened places to empty ones. At the same time, in hot sunny weather, it is necessary to water and shade the transplanted plants for 2-3 days. It is possible to avoid thinning by sowing germinated seeds in rows every 3-4 cm.

1 Beet sowing methods - soil preparation ^

Related videoVideo about preparing the soil for planting beets Click on Play to watch

Everyone, to a greater or lesser extent, knows the method of direct sowing of beet seeds in the ground. However, this root crop can also be planted as seedlings.

We will consider both methods in detail, and we will start with the more common one - how to plant beets by sowing seeds in the ground. Before sending the seeds to the ground, you need to properly prepare for this event. The first step is to prepare the soil.

Since autumn, the soil has been well cultivated and thoroughly fertilized. In the spring, before you start sowing seeds, it does not hurt to fluff up the soil so that it is soft and loose. It is better not to use manure for fertilizing the soil for beets.

Beets planted in such an environment accumulate nitrates, have a poor color, lose their taste and become overgrown with many roots. For fertilizer, it is better to use complex mineral dressing. Do not forget about wood ash. Beets love heat and sun, and therefore planting seeds is not recommended in the shade of trees, sunflowers, corn and other shady places.

The root crop is very demanding on the structure of the soil and does not like waterlogging. Therefore, carefully approach the search for a place on the site before you decide to sow beets.

2 When to plant beets - seed preparation in spring ^

Related videoVideo on preparing beet seeds for plantingClick on Play to watch

Another step towards a rich harvest is the preparation of seeds. A proven method is soaking for a day in a special solution. To begin with, draw a liter of water, heated to 30 ° C.

Pour one teaspoon of baking soda and one tablespoon of wood ash into a container of water, send a teaspoon of superphosphate and a quarter of a spoon of boric acid there. At the end, add 0.5 tsp. nitrophoska or nitroammofoski. Do not forget to mix all the components thoroughly.

For greater fidelity, set a reminder on your phone that will notify you in a day about the completion of the soaking procedure and the need to get the seeds from the “magic tincture”. When the triumphal music plays, rinse the precious seeds in crystal clear water and wrap them in a damp cloth. After these manipulations on the future harvest, leave the seeds alone for three days in a warm place, away from pets that can spoil all your efforts with their "participation" . Wet and protected seeds can be safely sown in open ground.

3 How to plant early beets in open ground - choose the moment ^

Related videoVideo about planting early beets in open ground Click on Play to watch

When the earth has warmed up to 9 degrees Celsius, you can begin to prepare the beds for sowing. As a rule, they begin to sow beets in April-May. For winter storage, it is correct to sow a vegetable in early June.

In autumn, beet seeds should be sown before frost - this is usually September-October. It is most convenient to sow beets in the spring - so there is more confidence in the result. Craftsmen sow the root crop in rows under the level and pull the rope for greater evenness of the beds.

Keep a distance of forty centimeters between rows. In the spring, beets should be planted at a distance of up to 13 centimeters between individual seeds, but you can sow more often - as soon as sprouts appear, the extra ones can be broken through.

The most correct planting of beets in open ground to a depth of two to three centimeters. Loose soil does not hurt to press down a little - for this they use a flat board. Seedlings will not take long, especially if it is warm outside.

Try to break through weak and too frequent shoots as early as possible so that they do not take moisture and nutrients from the soil. Weed the beds as often as possible and do not forget about moderate watering.

Beet is a very valuable vegetable plant, rich in vitamins and minerals. Sowing begins in the second half of May or later - warm weather has a positive effect on the crop. However, in order to optimize the results, the seedling method is recommended. In this case, painstaking thinning can be avoided, which will save seeds. At the same time, at the seedling stage, the seedlings are in comfortable conditions and under constant supervision. In addition, this method is best for a long spring with variable cooling. So, the desired sprouts have been obtained, and the novice gardener has a question: how to transplant beets so that the labor invested is not in vain.

Soil preparation for seedlings

It should be noted that a lot of nutrients are used for the growth of beets, therefore special requirements are placed on soil fertility. Since the shade harms the vegetable, you should not plant it under trees or on the north side of sunflowers, corn and climbing plants. To avoid rotting of the roots and root collar, soil moisture should be moderate. Instead of manure, it is advisable to use mineral fertilizers, otherwise the root crop may lose its taste and color, and become ill with scab.
It is not recommended to plant a plant in the same place for several years in a row. If before beets other vegetables were grown using manure, then it can be safely planted on this bed. Naturally, planting should be preceded by autumn digging of the earth in the garden plot. If at the same time the soil is not rich enough in organic compounds, you can add humus to it at the rate of five kilograms per square meter. It is also undesirable to plant beets after green lettuce, tomatoes and cabbage.

The choice of mineral fertilizers

As a top dressing for the soil, fertilizers containing magnesium and boron are most suitable. With a lack of these elements, the heart-shaped leaves die off, and the plant stops growing. In addition, beets need a considerable amount of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, which they use when growing tops, as well as during the growing season. The vegetable tolerates chlorine well, and the soil should have a neutral acid-base reaction. With increased acidity, the beds are limed. However, an excessive amount of alkali leads to root disease, especially if the variety is highly sensitive.

Seedling transplant

After carrying out the preparatory procedures, you should learn how to transplant beetroot seedlings, having read the rules and recommendations in detail.

The minimum allowable temperature for planting sprouts is five degrees above zero. Immediately before transplanting, the culture must be watered and the soil in which the plant will develop should be thoroughly loosened. The best time of day for planting is the second half of the day before dusk. By pulling out a sprout, it is impossible to avoid breaking off part of the root, but this does not affect the quality of the future fetus. To speed up tying, some professionals advise shortening the root by about one third of its length. However, this applies only to round varieties, while the deformation of beet seedlings with an elongated root crop leads to crop damage.

Transplantation is best tolerated by seedlings eight to ten centimeters high, while overgrown or too small ones take root with difficulty. If you want to grow not too large fruits of the same size, you need to plant the sprouts at a small distance from each other, thereby limiting the area of ​​\u200b\u200bnutrition. The plant is planted in such a way that the earth covers the stalk to the lower leaves. Then you can add a little ash or other fertilizers that do not interfere with the penetration of air. After that, it is recommended to mulch the soil, that is, cover the area around the seedlings with special materials. In the first week after transplantation, the culture should be given special attention: regularly watered and protected from gusts of wind and direct sunlight. A photo will help to clearly understand how to transplant beets.

Sheltering the soil around the seedlings

Mulching the soil after planting beets is possible using the following materials:

• needles and fallen cones;
• straw;
• expanded clay;
• cut grass and weeds without seeds;
• husks from cereals;
• sawdust, small chips and wood chips;
• crushed tree bark;
• roofing material;
• burlap;
• newsprint;
• polymer film;
• cardboard;
• peat;
• fallen leaves.

Mulch performs a protective function, provides the necessary heating and prevents the growth of weeds. Such an agricultural technique is especially effective at an early stage of plant development, when tender beet sprouts begin to actively form a root crop. However, some of the listed types of coverage have drawbacks, so you need to carefully monitor the seedlings. The use of a film leads to the drying of the soil, which attracts garden pests, such as a bear. The grass perfectly retains moisture, but prevents the ingress of sunlight, which leads to a decrease in soil temperature. One of the best ways to mulch is to cover the plants with fine wood chips or coarse cloth.