How to carefully close the pipes in the toilet? How and with what to close the pipes in the toilet - we mask the sewer pipes How to close the pipes with a box.

Everything around is beautiful, only when laying tiles on the walls they didn’t close the pipes in the toilet, and they spoil the view, and it’s inconvenient to clean up after them. So, you need to hide them in a box.

Material selection

In the bathrooms, the boxes are made of moisture-resistant drywall with ceramic tiles, or PVC wall panels. Tiled boxes have an excellent appearance and unsurpassed reliability. However, pipes, meters and taps tend to fail and sometimes require replacement or repair. Therefore, the possible dismantling of the boxes is a factor that must be foreseen.

The boxes covering the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels are easy to assemble and disassemble, the materials for their installation are inexpensive, the structures have a decent appearance.

Tools and materials

The set of tools required for work is standard: a puncher, a drill (screwdriver), metal shears, a good knife, a tape measure, a building level and a hammer.

To assemble boxes in the toilet of a 75 series panel house, you will need the following materials:

• PVC wall panels (in the example 250x2700 mm - 6 pieces);
• starting plastic profile - (5 pcs.);
• profile guide 27x28 mm - (3 pcs.);
• finishing corner 25x25x2700 mm - (2 pcs.);
• sanitary hatches (200x300 mm and 150x150 mm);
• ventilation grate 150x150 mm;
• dowel-nails 5x40 mm - (50 pcs.);
• self-tapping screws for metal 16 mm - (50 pcs.);
• self-tapping screws universal "bugs" 16 mm - (50 pcs.);
• drill for a perforator (drill) (5x110 mm - 1 pc.);
• drill for glass and tiles (5 mm - 1 pc.);
• glue "liquid nails" on an acrylic basis - (1 tube).

When purchasing materials, you should consider several nuances:

1. PVC panels can be of different thicknesses, so the starting profile should be chosen carefully so that its width matches the thickness of the panel.
2. To fasten the starting profile, it is convenient to use self-tapping screws without a drill at the end, with small caps.
3. To tighten the self-tapping screws, a drill bit is used, the marking of which must match the marking of the self-tapping screws. The two most common types are PH2 and PZ2.
4. It is advisable to buy plastic hatches and ventilation grilles, since they are easier to glue than metal ones, and they fit more tightly into place.
5. Acrylic glue has an undeniable advantage over others - its excess can be easily washed off with a wet cloth until the glue dries.

Frame assembly

Before picking up a puncher, you need to consider the design of the design of the closing pipe in the toilet. It is undesirable to make the width of the boxes larger than the width of the panel in order to avoid narrow inserts. Ideally, all sizes should be as small as possible. And they should be displayed on the walls with a pencil in the form of vertical lines.

The assembly of the box frame begins with the installation of the starting profile.

In the simplest case, the mounting holes are drilled with a puncher directly through the profile and dowel-nails are driven into them. However, when working with tiled walls, this option may not work. Firstly, there may be voids under the tile, and then it will burst. Secondly, ceramic can be too strong or brittle, and then it will also break.

Therefore, the tile must be drilled before drilling a hole deep into the wall. Often the tile is easily drilled with the same drill for a perforator. In this case, it is convenient to use the appropriate operating mode of the perforator. If the option with a drill did not work, then a drill on glass and tiles will help. Sometimes you can do without drilling and drilling by screwing self-tapping screws into the seam between the tiles. Sometimes this method turns out to be quite reliable. However, you need to make sure of this by carefully pulling the profile fixed in this way.

The starting profile should be fixed starting from its ends. We fixed the top, pulled the flexible profile well and fixed the bottom. Then the remaining holes are made every 30 - 40 cm. In this way, the "waviness" of the profile can be avoided.

The appearance of the entire structure largely depends on the starting profile. A panel will be inserted into it, and its outer side will serve as the edging of the box. Therefore, various bends and creases are unacceptable.

Having fixed the starting profile, it is necessary to create a basis for the outer corner of the box - install the metal profile "PP". In order for it not to dangle and stand strictly vertically, it must be reinforced with several horizontal jumpers cut off from the same profile.

The plane of the metal profile should be 10 mm (PVC panel thickness) deeper than the starting profile relative to the front surface of the box.

It should be noted one point related to the reliability of the design. PVC panel - the material is delicate and does not tolerate physical impact. The reinforced concrete frame of the box is not needed for it. The box mounting option described in the article is reliable and efficient, although it seems flimsy.

Installation of PVC panels

PVC panels are cut with a clerical or construction knife with a sharp blade. You don’t need to put pressure on it, it’s enough to hold it several times with a knife using a flat rail.

It is better to direct the factory edges of the panel to the outer corners, and the cut edges to the walls, inserting them into the starting profile. The mounting shelf along the edge will interfere, but it is easily trimmed. Various holes are cut with a knife, piercing the panel through.

Cutting off several pieces at once is useless, you can make a mistake if they are all different. Cut off, screwed, measured the next. It is undesirable to fasten the panel to the starting profile, because this self-tapping screw cannot be hidden in any way. However, sometimes there is no other way. In such a situation, self-tapping screws with small caps are used, which are then coated with acrylic glue. When screwing the panel to the metal profile, you need to drown the screw head, but do not overdo it. In addition, we must remember the width of the finishing corner that will cover the outer corner.

Even if you screw in self-tapping screws every 10 cm, stone rigidity cannot be achieved. Therefore, the gaps between the screws of 40 cm are quite appropriate. When fixing the panel to a horizontal jumper, the self-tapping screw must be screwed through the mounting shelf. For this purpose, self-tapping screws for metal are well suited.

If in some place it is not possible to screw in a self-tapping screw without damaging the front side of the panel, it's okay. Finishing will add strength, bringing it to an acceptable level.

In the described example, both the sewer pipe and the water pipes were closed.

Photo of the installation of the box covering the counters in the toilet.

Finishing the box covering the sewer pipe in the toilet

Upon completion of the installation of the boxes, the outer corners remain open. On them you need to glue the finishing corner, fixing it with tape until the glue grabs.

Unnecessary gaps are covered with acrylic adhesive or sealant. However, you need to remember - there is no plastic without cracks, it is undesirable to get carried away with putty.

Plumbing hatches are glued to the surface of the panel, fixing them with spacers. But if the hole for the hatch is made a couple of millimeters smaller, then the hatch will still go in and will hold perfectly without any glue.

Fully assembled, finished and sealed boxes have a wonderful appearance and acceptable reliability. In addition, these structures are easily disassembled if necessary.

Pipes with hot and cold water, a sewer riser, meters, valves - all this does not decorate the toilet at all. Conducted communications clearly do not add aesthetics to this room. It is for this reason that many people think about how to close the pipes in the toilet and hide all these ugliness. Within the framework of this article, we will try to analyze the main methods of masking the pipeline and give a description of the technology for their implementation.

What do you need to know before you start?

When choosing a method of masking communications, you need to take care of free access to them if necessary. It happens that in the event of an emergency, you have to break the constructed partition or wall. It is annoying and pitiful to destroy an arranged structure in which efforts, time, money have been invested, but there is no other option.

This situation can be avoided if you first take measures to reduce the very likelihood of such problems. Pipes should be carefully inspected for defects that can lead to leaks over time. It is necessary to examine all existing connections for tightness. It is important that the transition elements (couplings, angles, tees, etc.) related to hot water supply are made from the material from which the pipes are made. Then, when heated, the individual elements of the water supply system will expand equally, which will prevent unpleasant consequences.

It is known that less frequent failures will occur where a single section of the pipeline has a smaller number of connecting elements. Therefore, before you hide the pipes in the toilet, it’s still a good idea to spend money and replace old communications with reliable new ones.

Overview of possible ways to mask pipes

There are many ways to mask communications in the toilet. Consider some of them: the device of a decorative box, a utility locker and blinds.

A box covering horizontal pipes can be used as a functional shelf for various kinds of items.

Read our material on how to avoid mistakes when designing piping in the bathroom and toilet:.

So that a minor leak does not turn into a flood due to the lack of quick access to damaged areas, it is advisable not to get too carried away with aesthetic design. You should choose for the decorative box those materials that can be easily dismantled (drywall, plywood, etc.). The presence in the box of a door that provides access to the valves will save you from dismantling in many situations.

Drywall or plastic box

Even with a minimum of building skills, you can do it in the toilet. More often, such a design is made of a metal profile, and subsequently sheathed with plastic or drywall. Instead of a profile, you can use wooden blocks. If the option with drywall is chosen, then tiles are usually glued onto it.

This method somewhat reduces the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis small room and limits the possibility of repairing riser pipes without disturbing the decorative coating.

The option with plastic panels is simpler and more convenient. To work, you will need bars or a metal profile, plastic panels, dowels and small self-tapping screws with a press washer (the so-called “fleas”). Start with markup. It must be taken into account that, when fixed, the profile must not come into contact with the pipes. The distance between them should be approximately 4-5 cm. Using a perforator, the profile is attached to the walls with dowel-nails. Then levels are laid off from it on the ceiling and floor, and the profile is fixed in the same way. Having installed the frame, they begin to sheathe it with plastic panels, adjusted to size.

Even before starting work, it is important to consider the location of the door for access to communications if necessary. It is better if its dimensions are as large as possible, depending on the geometry of the box. After all, for some types of repair work you need a lot of space.

The hatch should be invisible on the surface of the partition, it should look like a single whole with it. Some difficulty lies in the fact that it is not always possible to achieve a snug fit of the door to the sides of the opening.

Tiling will make the plumbing hatch almost invisible

However, sewing up the pipes in the toilet, making the hatch invisible, is not difficult. Enough to turn on the imagination. So, using contrasts with the main color, you can decorate the surface of the box with figures of the same color, size and shape as the door, placing it in different places. By placing these elements symmetrically, you can get a design in the form of a decorative mosaic.

Construction of a utility locker

Thinking about how to hide the pipes in the toilet, you can resort to another method and build a useful locker that will be an excellent disguise for valves, filters, counters mounted on pipes. They will not be visible, and if necessary, hassle-free access is always provided.

First of all, a frame is made of wooden bars and attached to the side walls of the toilet with metal dowels. Hinges are installed on the frame, and doors are installed on them, which can be varnished or painted to protect against moisture. In addition, it looks more aesthetically pleasing. Any wood will do. Such a locker is very convenient for storing all kinds of cleaning products and household items.

Such a locker will provide free access to pipes and convenient storage of household items.

Below, under the locker, a screen for pipes in the toilet can be arranged, collapsible or solid. During the manufacturing process, it is important to consider the following details:

• a tight fit of the screen to the walls is required;
• there must be technological holes for the water supply to the tank and for the fan pipe;
• the screen should be easy and simple to insert and remove as well.

The material can be plasterboard, laminated chipboard or plywood (10-12 mm). Consider the stages of building a plywood cabinet.

The first step is to measure the width and height of the niche behind the toilet. And always at the bottom and at the top (in case of uneven walls). In our version, the screen will be inserted and removed through a removable shelf located above the locker.

Then a piece of the required size is cut out of plywood and inserted into a niche. The next step is to measure the height to the edge of the sheet from the floor, in order to calculate the size of the groove depth for flexible piping. It is recommended to add to the measurements taken in width and height of 5 cm. After cutting the groove, the screen is inserted into the niche, they check whether everything is done correctly. They take it back, paint and finally install it in place.

Option with blinds

Unlike all of the above methods, closing the pipes in the toilet with blinds is probably the best option. Their use is especially convenient in small, cramped bathrooms. Any structures made of plastic, drywall and other materials, at least a little, but still “eat up” the already small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. With the help of roller shutters, you can close the pipes in the toilet from the ceiling to the floor. Stylish and modern look is not the most important thing. The use of roller blinds will provide unhindered and free access to any section of the laid communications.

Closing the pipes in the toilet with roller shutters is a very convenient option. They are compact and provide unhindered access to communications if necessary.

Many owners of apartments in Soviet-built houses are lucky to some extent.

But all these options involve the use of materials that must be protected from the harmful effects of water and temperature extremes. There is, however, moisture-resistant drywall.

But all other materials must be subjected to special processing so that over time they do not collapse from swelling or changes in geometric dimensions due to changes in temperature.

This can be achieved more easily when the pipes are closed once and for all. In this case, the temperature and humidity conditions on both sides are relatively constant, which means that its effect on materials is minimized.

But the problem is that there are times in life when you need to gain access to the pipes of the riser.

In addition, stopcocks are usually installed at the points of connection to the internal wiring risers in order to be able to turn off the flow of water into the pipes when it is necessary to replace the tap or mixer. When replacing the meter, you also have to turn off the water.

These conditions make it necessary to arrange special hatches or doors in the structures that close the pipes, through which you can take readings from water meters and replace taps or water meters.

It is clear that the construction of such hatches in a structure made of, and even pasted over with ceramic tiles, is a rather difficult task.

But there is one material that allows you to solve all these problems quite simply. These are plastic panels.

Light in the literal sense and easy to work with them, they are quite durable and chemically inactive. Plastic panels are quite affordable.

In addition, they themselves are an excellent finishing, decorative material. They do not need to be painted, pasted over or filmed, and a wide variety of sizes and colors allows you to choose a pattern that goes well with the pattern of the material used to finish the rest of the walls of the room.

Range

Plastic panels are made from polyvinyl chloride, so they are also called PVC panels. In cross section, they have a cellular structure.

What are the advantages of plastic panels:

• Air chambers give them soundproofing properties
• They also reduce the thermal conductivity of partitions from these panels.
• Stiffening ribs give them mechanical strength
• Service life of PVC exceeds 20 years
• They are absolutely not afraid of water and sudden changes in temperature.
• They do not support combustion and are absolutely safe for humans and the environment.

The thickness of the panels is usually 10 mm, less often - 5 mm. They are available in different widths. Panels 10 cm wide are commonly called clapboards. The color of the lining is usually white, and the length is 3 meters.

Panels with a pattern or one-color are available in widths from 15 to 50 cm.

The most common sizes are 20-37 centimeters.

The length is 260, 270 and 300 cm.

The choice of size is one of the components of the answer to the question of how to close the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels. The photo below shows only a small part of the color palette in which PVC panels can be painted.

Moldings of various shapes are used to decorate the places where panels are attached around the perimeter or at joints and corners. As a rule, they have a white color, which is in perfect harmony with any color.

To work with plastic panels, you do not need any special tools, just the same tools that are used for metal processing and. The material of the panels makes it quite easy to give them any shape by heating.

They are easy to glue and weld. They can finish both walls and ceilings at any angle of inclination. And, if you correctly and correctly prepare the frame around the pipelines and sheathe it with plastic panels, then you can only guess about the presence of pipes in the room.

Fasteners

For the construction of the frame on which the PVC panels will be attached, you can use a wooden beam. But in such a damp room as a bathroom and toilet, wood can rot over time, mold can appear.

In order to avoid this, it is necessary to treat with special solutions. This process is quite time-consuming and dirty, besides, it does not always achieve the desired degree of protection with its help.

Fortunately, modern industry produces a variety of lightweight galvanized steel profiles and fasteners for them. For mounting frames under plastic panels, a special profile is perfect.

Its length is usually 3 or 4 meters. The transverse size can be very different, starting from 20 x 20 mm.

And the section itself can also have both a simple “P”-shaped form, and a complex one, with “shelves” and “grooves” along the planes. To connect individual parts to each other, manufacturers produce many connecting parts for each type of profile.

But the most common fastener is the suspension.

In the "working" state, it is bent in the form of the letter "P". The upper "shelf" serves to attach fasteners to any supporting structure, and the rows of holes on the "legs" allow you to fix the profile at any distance from the base.

You can fasten the frame elements to the walls and between each other with dowels and self-tapping screws.

Manufacturing jobs

Sometimes, asking yourself the question of how to close the pipes in the toilet with your own plastic panels, a person does not quite understand where to start and what you can encounter in the process of performing this simple task. Let's try to consider everything in order.

First of all, before starting to hide the pipes, it is necessary to determine the condition of these same pipes. It may well be that they require replacement.

And this problem is best solved before they are closed. Otherwise, according to the law of meanness, they can show their "character" as soon as the last detail of the skin that hides them is mounted.

This is especially necessary if the water supply pipes are still old, steel, and the sewer riser is. And although cast iron is a fairly durable and reliable material, a meticulous inspection may reveal cracks and chips, which over time can bring a lot of problems.

Therefore, it is best to replace the pipes of all risers with pipes made of new modern materials, at least within your floor. And it is best to negotiate with the neighbors and change the risers along the entire height of the house.

You should be prepared for this and do not be surprised and upset. The author is aware of a case when a harmless, at first glance, desire to move an electrical outlet to a new location in one led to a complete redevelopment of a two-room apartment, an extension of a loggia (the apartment is located on the first floor) and installation of stretch ceilings.

In the combined bathroom, all plumbing was replaced with a new one with a change in location; in the kitchen, the sink took the place of the so-called “Khrushchev refrigerator”.

Wooden window blocks gave way to plastic ones, and the piping of hot and cold water supply, as well as sewerage, was made according to a new scheme, for which it was necessary to open the entire floor in the bathroom and in the kitchen.

After the issue with the pipes is resolved, it will be necessary to determine how the structure covering them will look in general. Pipes themselves do not take up much space.

It all depends on the size and where they are located. The riser can be installed in a corner, or it can be placed somewhere in the middle. Horizontal pipes are usually placed closer to the floor, one above the other.

It is necessary to take into account the location of stopcocks, hot and cold water meters, as well as the places where pipes are connected to each other, in order to provide for the installation of hatches for access to these places.

If the riser is placed in a wall with a width less than , you can, without bothering yourself, close them with a false wall.

Or you can triple the “L”-shaped structure, which will hide the pipes behind it, and in the resulting niche, mount open shelves or a cabinet with doors for storing various toilet and household items.

When the wall is wide, and the pipes are in the corner, then you can close them with the same “L”-shaped design or hide them inside a triangle, where sections of the main wall will be the legs, and the false wall will be the hypotenuse. The riser, located closer to the middle of the wall, is closed with a "P"-shaped box.

To close the pipes of horizontal wiring, a rectangular "sill" can be arranged along the wall. As an option, the design of this “sill” can be raised to the level of the washbasin, and shelves can be arranged in an empty one above the pipes.

After considering these points, you can take care of the availability of building materials and tools:

• PVC panels and moldings
• Profile
• Fasteners, hangers
• Self-tapping screws, dowels
• Hacksaw or grinder
• Hammer drill and screwdriver
• Hammer, carpentry knife and metal scissors
• Roulette, level, plumb
• Corner, ruler, paper and pencil

• First you need to decide on the size of the profile. It must be understood that the plastic panels will also adhere to the "shelf". Therefore, the higher the “legs”, the greater the volume of the structure, and hence its perimeter will be larger. At the same time, it may turn out that even 1 extra centimeter will force you to buy an additional PVC panel.
• Now you need to determine the place where the pipes protrude most deeply into the room. With the help of a plumb line, this point is fixed on the floor. This will be the rapper. From it it is more convenient to calculate and mark the entire structure. Everyone knows how pipes vibrate when someone turns on a faulty faucet. If the frame is adjacent to the pipes closely, then the entire plastic wall will vibrate. Therefore, it is necessary to step back from the benchmark by 1 cm towards the intended plane of the fence, then add the height of the profile and the thickness of the PVC panel. The resulting label will indicate the location of the front surface of the false wall or box. Next, with the help of a tape measure and a ruler, a fence plan is drawn on the floor. At the points of junction with the existing walls, a line is drawn on them using a level and a plumb line, where the fence wall under construction will join with them. Then the same plan is drawn on the ceiling as on the floor. The markup is ready.
• Marking on the floor, this is the perimeter. By dividing the received value by the expected width of the PVC panel, you can find out the number of panels that need to be bought. As mentioned above, they come in different widths, so it will be easy to calculate the required amount in such a way as to minimize unnecessary costs. The length of the panels is determined by the distance between the floor and the ceiling. It remains to drive through the building materials stores and buy everything you need.
• The profile is attached to the walls, floor and with dowels. Here we must not forget to retreat from the "face" to the pipes by 12-14 mm, depending on the thickness of the plastic panels and taking into account the thickness of the molding wall. Now, using metal scissors or a “grinder”, you need to cut the jumpers to the desired length and screw them with one end to the profile fixed on the walls, with the other to the profile installed in the places where the corners of the box will be. If the box is in the form of the letter "G", then the frame is ready. If it is in the form of the letter "P", then it remains only to cut and install jumpers between the outer corners of the box. When installing jumpers, one must not forget about the places where doors or hatches will be arranged for access to taps and meters.
• Self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter are screwed to the "starting" molding.
• The outer corner is formed by the "outer corner". The inner, if any, is the "inner corner". If it is necessary to join the panels, a connecting molding is used.
• Now it remains to carefully insert the PVC panels into the grooves of the moldings. With a hacksaw for metal or a grinder, you can cut off the excess. If you suddenly want to mount the panels not vertically, but horizontally, then it is preferable to insert them into place so that the panels are pointing up and the groove is down. This will prevent water from getting into the groove and the formation of mold there.
• Consider the design of hatches or doors and their fastening on your own. It can be a door on canopies, and a hatch on magnets.

Here, however, and all. You can take out the trash and admire the work done. Pipes no longer spoil the view of the bathroom.

How to close the riser with panels - on the video:

Sometimes the abundance of pipes, risers, meters and other communications negates all the efforts and funds invested in repairs. They are like silent witnesses of your defeat, they seem to be useful, but treacherously “tell” the truth and cause unpleasant emotions. The richest rooms in terms of communication are the toilet and bathroom. Let's talk about how to hide the pipes in the toilet so that the guests admire, and the neighbors kindly envy your imagination.

Rules for hiding pipes

Usually, hidden piping in the bathroom or toilet is done in parallel with the construction of the house or the renovation of the premises. But there are times when ugliness is annoying, but there are no special funds for cardinal changes in the home. Then you need, without restraining your creative impulses, to come up with ways to disguise from the “cheap and cheerful” series, that is, to do a kind of decorating pipes in the toilet. But first things first.

Example: how to make a tiny bathroom both functional and beautiful

What to mask

What kind of pipes do we usually hide in the toilet? Of course, a lot depends on whether it is combined with a bathroom, what kind of plumbing is equipped, but in general it can be assumed that the following structures are present in the bathroom:

• pipe for connecting the toilet;
• fan outlet;
• wiring for sinks, bathrooms, bidets, and so on (both cold and hot water).

As a rule, the diameter of the elements for connecting the toilet is 110 mm, other plumbing points - 50 mm. The construction material is either plastic or cast iron. The latter is often present in Soviet-style houses and does not have good performance characteristics, besides, it has too thick walls, which is why when masking such a network, centimeters of area that are important for tiny apartments are lost. But since you have chosen this option, you have to get out.

Closed way to mask the sewer

How to mask

So, how to hide the sewer pipe in the toilet? There are two main ways to install communications that are "an eyesore":

1. Closed when the system becomes invisible due to strobe or installation of special structures. With a closed method, communications are completely hidden, the bathroom becomes more beautiful, but smaller.
2. Open. Elements of the system are masked, but are in the public domain. This method is less aesthetic (although it all depends on imagination), but it saves space. In addition, the decor can be changed, thereby giving the bathroom a new style.

The frame must be strong, because you have to sheathe it with drywall, and then glue it with tiles, and that's all - weight

How to close the sewer pipe in the toilet without compromising the performance of the system?

• Do not wall up the structure completely, there should be partial access to it to check the condition, and, possibly, repair;
• during the installation process, be careful not to damage the pipes, especially if you use plastic products;
• make a door or window better near the check valve, because it will have to be cleaned periodically;
• remember about the angle of inclination;
• before hiding pipes in the bathroom or toilet, check their tightness;
• do not forget about access to the meters, you will have the necessary data on a monthly basis - to pay receipts for services.

Drywall box - halfway to completion

Disguise options

Let's look at how and how to close the sewer pipes in the toilet.

shutters

One of the most effective and cheapest ways to hide pipes in a toilet is to cover them with roller shutters, roller shutters or blinds. For cramped and tiny bathrooms, this is generally salvation. Shutters do not eat up space, they look stylish, they can be changed and installed from floor to ceiling. Moreover, in a niche, along with pipes and counters, you are free to place shelves, cabinets where you can store a decent amount of jars, bath stocks and inventory.

And here is the implemented idea using roller shutters

Blinds or shutters are easy to assemble and lower, you can “play” with the shades of products, changing the interior. This option is also great for sealing sewer pipes in the toilet of a rented apartment, when you want it to be beautiful, but it makes no sense to invest in repairs. Installation of such a structure is extremely simple, you can even dismantle it before you move out to another apartment, if you want.

Video: decorating a bathroom with blinds or blinds

locker

In fact, this option is somewhat similar to the previous way of closing the pipes in the toilet, with the only difference being that this design is more fundamental. You can buy a ready-made locker, meanwhile, due to the characteristics of the node and individual sizes, this is not possible for all apartment owners. Often, the owners make an individual order for the manufacture of such a design. But you can do everything yourself

So, how to hide the pipes in the toilet with your own hands using this method?

Start by making the frame - to do this, use metal dowels to attach wooden bars to the side walls. Screw the hinges to the frame, hang the doors on them. It is better to buy moisture resistant material, but another tree will do. The main thing is to cover the doors with paint or varnish. Do not forget to attach handles, and choose places so that none of the household members get hurt when getting up from the toilet.

This is how the locker looks - beautiful and functional, right ?!

In the locker, you are free to store a bunch of themed useful tools and things. Using this method, the upper part of the pipes will close, while the lower part, near the toilet, can still be an eyesore. Then make or buy a screen, a panel or the same shutters. You probably don’t need to talk about how to close the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels or a sheet of chipboard / plasterboard.

Just purchase or cut a piece of the desired size and install it in a niche so that the top rests against the bottom of the cabinet. If you use chipboard / plasterboard, then the material also needs to be painted (you most likely will have paint left after painting the doors).

Another closed type method is the installation of a box. Its dimensions may vary: you can make a structure only at the bottom - near the toilet, or you can grab a fragment of the wall to the ceiling.

So, how to close the pipes in a drywall toilet with your own hands? First you need to make the body. Wooden bars or a metal profile are suitable for the base. Of the tools you will need a puncher, hammer, level, marker, tape measure. You also need to stock up on dowel-nails, self-tapping screws with a press washer (popularly referred to as "fleas") and glue.

See how many communications can be hidden in a box

The structure is covered with plasterboard or plastic. If you choose a plasterboard box, then it will need to be pasted over with tiles - the same as on the walls or contrasting. Do not forget about the window for checking the status and repairing the system. The box can also be multi-level - it all depends on your imagination and plans for arranging a bathroom.

Two-level drywall box covered with tiles

Gating

How to hide a sewer pipe in a toilet so as not to lose a millimeter of usable space? Use gating, which means making a series of recesses in those places on the wall where the network is planned to be laid. One of the best ways to mask pipes, but laborious and has a number of limitations.

Photofragment of the strobing process

Get to know them:

• the diameter of the pipes should not exceed 50 mm, which means that the plumbing to the toilet and the riser cannot be hidden in this way;
• the furrow should be less than 15% of the wall thickness;
• installation of inspection hatches is required.

Many owners of apartments or private houses face the question of how to close the sewer pipe in the toilet. It looks too technologically advanced, spoils the decoration of the room with its appearance. There are not too many options for solving the problem.

Most often, a decorative box is installed. It is finished in the general style with the design of the toilet and hides the pipes. It is important to remember that one day you may need access to a wiring or riser. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure the possibility of quick dismantling of the box. Let's consider this question in more detail.

Camouflage materials

Before you hide the sewer pipe in the toilet, you need to choose the appropriate masking method. The materials used for this must meet the following requirements:

• ecological cleanliness and harmlessness. The room is small, the concentration of unwanted secretions increases very quickly;
• resistance to moisture, no corrosion or other reaction;
• compact, light weight design.

The following materials meet these requirements to a greater extent:

• plastic panels;
• MDF;
• plywood;
• drywall.

All sheet materials must be moisture resistant. The design of the sewer riser must maintain its appearance for a long time.

When choosing how to close the sewer pipe in the toilet, one must remember the need to repair or clean the pipes. It is not recommended to seal the wiring tightly so that later you do not have to urgently break everything. If necessary, the structure is dismantled in a predetermined order. After completion of the work, the box is put in place without re-closing the pipes with new materials. Since there are many ways to close a sewer pipe in a toilet, it is important to carefully analyze your options. You should not choose complex methods without special training, experience and skills. It is necessary to provide a decorative look, a combination with other elements of the interior. Most often, the manufacture of the box is combined with a general finish, in order to obtain the same design of all surfaces as a result.

Ideally, the box should completely cover the pipes and merge with the finish, without standing out in any way from the general background. In addition, it is necessary to provide free access to valves and water meters. To do this, install a special hatch, plastic or metal. There are ready-made items on sale, you just need to choose the right size.

Concealed pipe installation

One of the ways to hide the sewer pipe in the toilet is the hidden laying of wiring and other pipelines. For this, at the stage of installation of communications, a recess (strobe) is made in the wall.

With hidden installation, it becomes possible to avoid the creation of unnecessary structures. The walls of the room remain flat. However, there are limitations. If you have to gouge a load-bearing wall, the depth of the groove should not exceed 15% of its thickness. This is a requirement of SNiP, compliance with which is mandatory for everyone.

In addition, embedding an existing sewer riser into the wall is a complex engineering challenge. If the pipeline is already installed, it will have to be shifted relative to the vertical axis. This will create difficulties in the passage of drains and can cause blockages. Therefore, when deciding how to close the sewer pipe in the toilet, it is necessary to clarify in advance all the nuances and the possibility of applying the techniques. Most often, hidden installation is used by owners of private houses, who take this moment into account even at the design and construction stage.

Box marking

Before you close the sewer riser in the toilet, you need to perform a number of preparatory steps. To install the structure, a support system is needed - a frame. Its dimensions must be carefully calculated, taking into account the thickness of the material of the planks of the supporting structure and the skin itself. It is recommended to draw up a plan of the room on a scale, mark on it all available pipelines and the distances from them to the walls. To do this, first make measurements with a ruler or tape measure.

When drawing up a drawing of the frame, it is necessary to immediately mark on it the site for mounting the hatch. To do this, you must have a ready-made assembly in order to know exactly its dimensions and installation features. In addition, you need a right or left element so that it is convenient to open and close it.

To assemble the frame, wooden planks or metal guides for drywall are usually used. Their size must be chosen so that the box is not too large. Considering the thickness of the cladding and decorative tiles (if it is planned to be laid), the size of the box may be too large.

Use of plastic panels

When deciding how to close the sewer pipe, it is recommended to consider plastic panels. This is a good way to solve the problem for inexperienced people. Advantages of plastic panels:

• low price. Only 3-4 panels are required for assembly;
• wide choice of a coloring, width, drawing. You can choose the material for the finished finish;
• ease of installation. The assembly of plastic panels is quick and does not require any skills. All related profiles are on sale, you can arrange corners and junctions to the walls;
• the material does not create a load on the supporting structures;
• no response to moisture;
• cutting and processing of panels is carried out with simple tools and is not difficult.

These advantages have made the material the most popular. The low price and ease of assembly allow the panel to be changed frequently, updating the look of the toilet. Panels are used in different cases, from installing an apron in the kitchen, to wall cladding. Plastic is not afraid of any influences, except for mechanical ones. However, when dents appear, the skin can be quickly and inexpensively replaced.

Drywall box

The assembly of a drywall box is usually done for further laying tiles. The process resembles the installation of a plastic structure. First, the frame is assembled, then it is sheathed with sheets of drywall. The last stage is the finishing coating (tiles, decorative plaster, painting, etc.). It is necessary to choose moisture-resistant grades of material, since it is impossible to close the sewer pipe in the toilet with ordinary drywall. It will absorb moisture and lose its strength, tiles or plaster will peel off.

It must be remembered that a quick dismantling of the box in this case is impossible, so you must first put all the pipes in order.

Other ways to disguise

When deciding how to close a sewer pipe, it is not necessary to be limited to well-known methods. You can hide pipelines under different designs. Some users install roller shutters that provide access to pipes without dismantling the entire structure. Others install a plywood box and paste over it with mosaics. There are craftsmen who install a semicircular case with textured plaster, mosaic tiles or other types of finishes. It is important to avoid excessive decoration or design design. The box should not stand out or look like an alien element.