Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels: sewerage in the country from plastic and metal, how to make. Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels in the country house Sewerage from two barrels

Local sewerage with its own treatment plant will allow you not to break away from civilization in settlements that do not have elementary infrastructure. If you make a septic tank with your own hands from barrels as an object of cleaning, the cost of improvement will be minimal. But for a successful result, technological subtleties are needed. Is it true?

To everyone who wants to acquire an autonomous sewage system on their own site, we offer useful information that thoroughly covers all aspects of its construction. The practical application of the information provided by us is a guarantee of a long service life and flawless operation of the system.

An interesting article presented to your attention introduces various constructive types of home-made septic tanks. It describes in detail the technology for constructing a wastewater treatment plant from waste barrels. Construction methods are illustrated with simplified graphics, photo and video applications.

Despite the fact that manufacturers offer a fairly wide range, the design and construction of home-made septic tanks (for example, from barrels) is quite relevant.

The option of a hand-held device is in demand for the following reasons:

• the ability to reduce costs to a minimum by purchasing components, as they say, out of order - where it is cheaper, secondly, using the available improvised means;
• installation of equipment can be carried out according to the so-called modular scheme, having previously calculated options for adding and complicating the system.

Let's say you equip the toilet first. In the future, connect a bathhouse, a sink in the kitchen, even a sink in the garage to the cleaning system. Of course, this will be easily feasible only if the “tie-in” points are prepared in advance - pipe outlets brought to the surface or close to it, reserved for a while.

The construction of a septic tank from barrels will allow, at minimal cost, to organize an autonomous sewage system with the disposal of neutralized and clarified effluents

No one better than the master who built the septic tank knows the weaknesses of the treatment system and its capabilities. Although you should not make shortcomings, but only he will take them into account during operation.

It's no secret that manufacturers and sellers of any equipment, as a rule, do not inform buyers about the shortcomings, "sticking out" only the merits. An independent builder will know what can let him down.

Knowing the approximate norms of water consumption by the family, taking into account the frequency of residence and the characteristics of the site around the house as a whole (type of soil and groundwater level), you can avoid both unnecessary effort and money, and “accidents” caused by poor cleaning system throughput.

A septic tank from barrels works on the principle of multi-section settling tanks, which, as a result of overflow and settling, ensure the separation of wastewater into water and sludge. After leaving the septic tank, clarified and purified up to 65% water is discharged into the ground, and sludge accumulates at the bottom of the septic tank until it is pumped out by sewers

You will learn the subtleties of the construction of a septic tank that works without odor emission and does not require pumping out from our other site.

Varieties of designs and schemes

A home-made septic tank constructed from barrels consists of several containers (chambers) installed in a given order. They are connected in series with each other by branch pipes so that the filling of the sections is carried out in a strictly defined order. This is achieved by installing cameras at different height levels.

The principle of operation of a multi-chamber septic tank is similar to the principle of operation. The entrance and exit of pipes into the chambers is done in such a way that water begins to flow into the next tank before the water level rises to the inlet pipe.

Gradually accumulating in the chamber, the water settles. The heaviest particles of pollution settle at the bottom of the tank, smaller and lighter ones continue their way through the system.

For free flow of sewage to the septic tank and from chamber to chamber, the sewer line is arranged with a slope. The slope must be observed at each site, including the sections between sections of the septic tank

In order for the methane formed during the processing of wastewater to be freely removed from the system, it is necessary to arrange ventilation. It is installed vertically at the exit from the house or at the exit of their last section of a homemade septic tank.

In addition, on the drain of water from plumbing fixtures, sinks, toilets, showers, etc., it is necessary to provide a siphon - at least made in the form of a “knee” - so that an unpleasant smell does not poison the existence.

The principle of operation of the septic tank is based on the gradual separation of solid insoluble components and the liquid component of wastewater. The more sections the sewer passes through, the higher the final degree of cleaning.

The most common is a three-section septic tank scheme used for processing gray and brown waste streams. However, if it is necessary to purify the contaminated water coming from the bath or kitchen, the use of one or two barrel sections will be enough.

Purified and clarified effluents from the septic tank flow into the soil post-treatment system, for example, it is disposed of through the filtration field

From the last barrel, they arrange an exit to the filtration field, which completes the cleaning process. This post-treatment system is an underground structure assembled from perforated pipes - drains.

The drainage pipeline is laid in trenches specially selected for them, lined with geotextile, on top of which pipes are laid and sand and gravel mixture is covered.

The function of ground aftertreatment of gray drains supplied by bathhouses, washing machines, kitchen drains, etc., can be safely entrusted to an absorption well built in the last barrel of the sewer system. In this case, the bottom is cut out from the tank, and it is filled with gravel and sand so that the layer of this backfill is at least 1 meter.

If the amount of runoff does not exceed 5–8 m³ / day, then the third section without a bottom, filled with a layer of 1 m of sand and gravel, can be used as a soil post-treatment system. Absorption (filtering) wells are arranged using this method.

As you can see, the scheme is quite simple, but its implementation in practice will require a lot of physical effort. Particularly time-consuming work is associated with the development of a pit for sections of a septic tank and trenches for a sewer pipeline.

The calculation of the volume of wastewater is based on the rate of wastewater discharge per person in l / day. A single-chamber septic tank is built with a sewage volume of up to 1 m³ / day, a two-chamber septic tank is built for 5 - 8 m³ / day

Construction of a septic tank from plastic barrels

Home-made treatment structures can be divided into groups according to the material from which the chambers are made, these are septic tanks:

• from plastic barrels;
• from metal containers (welded cubes, cylindrical barrels);

The metal tank is more rigid. In addition, it is easier to fix it from floating up. But the main disadvantage of iron barrels is their poor ability to resist corrosion.

A septic tank made of concrete rings requires the use of special equipment in the construction of sewer wells. It is difficult to ensure the proper degree of tightness for a tire cleaning station if there is no experience with similar materials.

The use of plastic barrels in a septic tank allows you to do without lifting equipment and without welding

A homemade septic tank made of plastic barrels has more advantages:

• light weight, which facilitates transportation, installation in the pit and assembly;
• corrosion resistance. This moment is important not only in terms of reducing the hassle associated with replacing tanks, but also as an additional guarantee of cleanliness on the site;
• the optimal way of construction, because installation of the system does not require electric welding;
• tightness of tanks, due to which there is no need to carry out work on waterproofing the sewer facility;
• manufacturability of the source material. Polymer containers are much easier to process with a cutting tool.

If necessary, slight cutting flaws can be easily corrected using cold welding tools.

Plastic barrels are the easiest to work, technological source material for the construction of a homemade septic tank

Basic accommodation requirements

In the event that you have to obtain permission to install a septic tank in the regulatory authorities (SES, etc.), then carefully study SNiP No. 2.04.03-85. SNiP - "Building Norms and Rules" - a document similar to the standard (GOST), and it is this one that establishes the basic rules for the construction of external sewage networks and treatment facilities.

Sanitary requirements are regulated by SanPiN - Sanitary Rules and Norms.

In any case, adhere to the following requirements for distances from the septic tank to the following objects:

• the foundation of the house is 4-5 meters;
• well, well - 30-50 m;
• lake, pond - 30 m;
• bushes, trees - 2-4 m;
• road - 5 m.

Before installing an autonomous septic tank or its location, it is necessary to discuss with the owners of neighboring plots. Although the standards provide for a distance from their fence to a septic tank of 2 m, the owners of a nearby estate may not be satisfied with the proximity of the sewer structure.

When deepening the bottom of the structure below 5 m, it will be necessary to obtain building permits from the local administration.

The greater the volume of wastewater processed in the septic tank, the farther it must be removed from the foundation

But even if permission is not required, consider the features of the site. It is pointless to arrange sewerage with systems of soil post-treatment in clay soils that do not have the necessary filtration properties.

The lack of ability to pass water will be “telled” by the stagnation of flood waters during the melting of snow and during periods of heavy rainfall. This means that clayey soils predominate in the section, which do not allow water to pass through and into itself.

On clay soils, sandy loams, clays, loams, storage tanks are installed. Make them, plastic containers or a group of barrels. Accumulators only accumulate waste masses for pumping out by vacuum trucks, and do not process them.

A similar decision should be made if the groundwater level is close to the surface. Soils saturated with water will also prevent the disposal of the purified and clarified liquid component of wastewater.

If the section of the site is composed of clay soils that are unable to absorb purified water, the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bconstructing a septic tank will have to be abandoned

Instead of a storage tank, a biological treatment station can be installed. It purifies effluents by 98%, which allows them to be dumped onto the terrain.

Features and design standards

Having solid experience in the construction of such systems, all the required calculations can be made "by eye". But drawing up a detailed plan and developing a project, even in the form of a sketch, can be of great benefit.

Firstly, having determined the installation locations of the cameras and laying the highway, you will accurately calculate how much and what materials you need to purchase. If time endures, then before you start work, part of the necessary, it is quite possible, can be obtained for free.

And legally - people, as a rule, easily part with things that they consider trash. It has been proven more than once in practice that even a car can be assembled by spending money comparable to the price of, say, a new bicycle.

Secondly, the careful execution of the sketch contributes to the adoption of new decisions, as well as discipline. In addition, a well-drawn to scale drawing can reveal flaws in the original design and save you from unnecessary expense. It may well turn out that the scheme can be simplified by discarding the excess.

As you plan, keep the following in mind:

• even if you do not need official permission to install a septic tank, try not to disturb the ecology of the site;
• the sections of the septic tank should be located so that there is at least 5 m between them and the foundation - a distance that excludes soil erosion in case of emergency flooding of the septic tank and the occurrence of leaks;
• the route of sewer pipes must be designed so that it is, if possible, without turns that contribute to clogging of the pipeline;
• the external line of an autonomous sewer must be provided with a manhole for inspection and cleaning.
• for every 25 m of the sewer line, an additional manhole should be built.

If the site is not happy with the dimensions, and the choice of location is a decided matter, then, if necessary, strengthen the walls of the pit.

To the level of seasonal freezing of soils, the septic tank and the sewer pipeline must be insulated so that ice plugs do not form in it

If it is planned to erect buildings in the future, the operation of which will require the use of water (a bathhouse, a sink, some kind of handicraft), provide for places for “tie-in” of water effluents from them into the treatment system. Moreover, the discharge of water from the bath can be taken immediately to the last chamber of the septic tank, since there will be no large particles of dirt in the waste water.

If you do not intend to use the services of a vacuum truck, do not make the first chamber too voluminous - so that it can be easily cleaned manually. In addition, consider either easy dismantling of the chamber or access to its contents for quick cleaning.

For maintenance, control of work and periodic extraction of sludge, the septic tank must be equipped with a hatch. It must rise above ground level by at least 18 cm.

If, in accordance with the clay type of soil on the site, only the installation of a storage tank is possible, then carry out the design taking into account the provision of unhindered passage of sewage equipment.

Preparation of building materials for work

The main materials necessary for making a septic tank from barrels with your own hands include:

• pipes for the highway with a diameter of 110 mm;
• fittings, angles, etc., in the quantity corresponding to your project.
• the barrels themselves, designed for septic tank chambers. Select their sizes with the calculation of the approximate water consumption in the house, based on direct observations.

It is advisable to use barrels with sufficiently thick walls so that the joints of the pipes with them are as rigid as possible - otherwise the seam may lose its tightness from mechanical stress.

To connect polymer parts, it is more convenient to use adhesives that must be compatible with the materials of barrels and pipes.

Work out in advance the issue related to the freezing of cameras at low temperatures. You can use the old village way - put wooden sticks in containers.

At the very least, the ice that expands when it freezes will squeeze the tree, which has “taken” part of the impact. Plastic bottles filled with sand will also help.

But in any case, the thermal insulation of the barrels will not be superfluous - take care of purchasing available materials in the required quantity.

Supporting materials will also be required. You need to buy a sealant to seal the seams. For this purpose, do not use silicone, it will not last long, and it will not be possible to cover it with any protective layer - no coating will hold on silicone.

The best option would be to use a car body sealant - it has good adhesion (sticking ability), mechanical strength, and it can be coated on top with paint, mastic, etc. Polyurethane sealant has the best characteristics, but it is quite expensive;

It is necessary to purchase cement, sand, rebar - for pouring bases for barrels. Sand should not be subject to any special requirements in terms of quality. Let it be with pebbles, it's not scary, the main thing is that it does not include lumps of loam and organic pollution.

As reinforcement, any steel bars are suitable. There is no need to cook a reinforcing mesh - it is enough to fasten the bars with wire.

If, during the development of the pit, soil with biological inclusions, lenses and layers of clay soil was extracted, then quarry or river sand will be required to fill the pit with a septic tank installed

It will require crushed stone, gravel, granulated slag or similar materials to backfill the bottom of the pit (pit) before pouring cement;

The plastic barrel is lightweight, and therefore, when the container is not filled, it can be “pushed” to the surface by groundwater. To avoid this, prepare metal hooks, threaded studs - something for which you can “anchor” the barrel.

It is appropriate to use threaded studs for sale - it is convenient to make hooks from them, on the straight ends of which you can fix iron plates with two nuts that need to be “drowned” in cement.

Construction of a pit with a concrete slab

How you decide to make the main pit - manually or with the help of an excavator - decide for yourself. Calculate its area so that after installing the barrel in place it is convenient to ram the earth, which is filled into the gap between it and the wall of the pit. It is also possible to provide for the thermal insulation of the container - slag, foam, - in general, with what will be more accessible.

Before pouring a concrete slab at the bottom of the excavation, it is necessary to check whether its depth is sufficient. To do this, you can install one of the barrels in the pit and see if there is enough depth for a concrete base. If everything is in order, you can start filling the bottom of the pit with cement. It is not necessary at the same time to make formwork, but it is advisable to fill it with sand and tamp the bottom before that.

If there is any doubt about the strength of the walls of the pit, then they must be strengthened with a board before pouring. Then it is enough to fill the bottom with a thin layer of liquid cement. After it dries, you can lay the reinforcement and fill it “cleanly” - with the alignment of the horizon. Do not forget about the embedded parts for anchoring barrels!

Mix cement with sand - 3 parts of sand to 1 part of cement. It is very convenient to use an electric concrete mixer, but acquiring one just for this job (unless there are plans to build something else) does not seem appropriate. It is enough to choose a suitable trough, convenient for working with a shovel.

Mix sand with cement first without water - on the contrary, avoiding its premature ingress, and then gradually adding liquid, bring the solution to the desired consistency. To prepare small portions of cement, you can also work on a sheet of iron or plywood - if there is no trough. Before directly filling the foundation, moisten the compacting backfill with water.

In order to anchor a light plastic septic tank, metal brackets must be laid in a poured concrete slab

To level the fill, use a tool similar to a flat mop. While pressing the sole to the surface, level the solution with light translational movements. So, by the way, you will achieve a better filling of the future site with a solution.

To prevent the grout from cracking as it dries, especially in hot weather, cover the grouted area with a thick cloth after the cement has set and pour water over it. For this purpose, a tarpaulin or similar synthetic fabric is better suited - it is important not to wet the surface of the site, but to slow down the evaporation process.

Proceed with the installation of pipes when the barrels are installed, but not completely fixed. Only when the entire structure is assembled can its elements be fixed. It is advisable to fill the barrels with water - for stability.

All these points are important to take into account due to the fact that the final stage of the assembly will be the processing of the joints of pipes and barrels with sealant - while it dries, it is necessary to ensure the immobility of the structure.

Before applying the sealant, treat the places of its contact with plastic with coarse sandpaper (No. 80-100) - for better adhesion and durability of the seam. By the way, triangular scarves for rigidity can also be installed on the same sealant, 3-4 pieces per joint, between the barrel wall and the pipe. While the sealant is drying, wrap the scarves with wire, masking tape, etc. - so that they do not "slide".

A schematic diagram of preparing a pit and anchoring a factory-made septic tank can be used in a do-it-yourself sewer facility (+)

After testing the system for water permeability, proceed to the final backfilling of trenches and pits. Compact the soil gradually, filling the ground in layers. You can throw stones, bricks, etc. into the gap for rigidity.

In those places where it is possible that equipment will run into the filled pipes and pits, before filling the surface layer of soil, make a protective flooring at least from boards.

Assembly and connection of the structure

So, all materials are ready. The next step is to cut holes in the barrels for pipes. There is no point in describing this procedure. The only thing that can be advised - do not immediately make holes in size - let the pipes be inserted with effort, cut off the excess if necessary.

Next, you should take care of fixing the pipes in advance, otherwise, when backfilling and tamping trenches and pits, the integrity of the seams can be violated. Pipes can be fixed using all the means at hand - wire, cutting boards, bricks, - whatever you like.

Before digging trenches and pits, it would be useful to assemble the entire structure, without fixing the details, to place everything on the ground. Pipes can simply be placed on the ground next to the barrels. This will help to more accurately make markings on the ground. Having marked the contours of the highway and pits with stakes and twine, you can start digging.

Visual step by step guide

The process of building a septic tank with overflow from used barrels will present a visual step-by-step instruction:

Image Gallery

Before the construction of a home-made septic tank, a pit is being developed, the dimensions of which will ensure convenience in the performance of work

In the lids of both barrels, planned for the installation of a septic tank with an absorbing well, we cut a hole for the flange of the sewer pipe

We apply flanges to the holes cut in the barrels. Refine cuts if necessary.

We are still finalizing the barrel intended for the device of the absorbing well - in its upper part we cut out two holes for the introduction of drainage pipes

In the upper barrel, which will be used as a receiving chamber, we cut out only one hole. It should be directly opposite the one cut into the lid.

We install the first barrel on the compacted and leveled bottom of the pit. We connect the flange to the hole cut in the cover

To install a second barrel in front of the already installed first swarm, a recess

We fill the recess with gravel, which will perform the function of ground purification of the clarified water that has come out of the septic tank

Step 1: Development of a pit for the installation of barrels

Step 2: Making Holes in the Barrels

Step 3: Fitting the Flange to the Drum Holes

Step 4: Cutting Holes in the Bottom Barrel

Step 5: Side hole in the top barrel

Step 6: Installing the receiving chamber in the pit

Step 7: Designing a recess for the second barrel

At the dacha, which is rarely used, they usually do not arrange an expensive industrial septic tank. An alternative is wastewater treatment plants made from inexpensive plastic or metal barrels. The article tells about the structural features of such structures.

Manufacturers offer cleaning devices with different performance and a wide price range. Many owners of summer cottages prefer to make them with their own hands. The option is in demand for good reasons:

• cost savings - they purchase material at a low cost, including used ones, choosing where it is cheaper;
• use of the capacities available on the farm;
• the possibility of using a modular scheme - options for future changes and additions are calculated in advance.

Feedback from Golodov A.N. At the dacha, he first set up a septic tank from barrels for the toilet. Then he connected the bath, kitchen, washing machine. To do this, I prepared the connection points in advance: I cut the pipes into containers and drowned them out for a while.

How does a sewage plant work

A self-made design consists of several containers located nearby. They are connected by pipes. Sections are filled sequentially, which is achieved by installing an overflow at different heights. Wastewater treatment is carried out mechanically:

• large particles settle in the first barrel;
• the clarified liquid from the filled container flows into the second one;
• it can be final and serve to filter the liquid into the soil;
• with a three-chamber version of the septic tank, additional cleaning takes place similar to that in the first section.

In the last barrel, the bottom is cut out, a backfill is made of crushed stone, gravel or sand, which serves as a filter. Layer thickness up to one meter. The first containers remain sealed.

It looks like a two-chamber septic tank with access to the filter field

Removal of clarified effluents into the ground provides optimal results, but with a close location of groundwater, the method is unacceptable. To ensure environmental safety, they arrange a filtration field. These are perforated pipes, insulated with geotextiles, which are buried in trenches. The exit is made from the last chamber.

The most common and effective three-section scheme. If the drains are kitchen or come from a bath, two containers are enough for a washing machine. Such waste can also be cleaned immediately in the last chamber by connecting pipes directly to it, bypassing the previous ones.

Important! Drains from the toilet must be filtered according to the full scheme.

Characteristics and cost of materials

Plastic or metal containers are suitable for sewage. To anticipate possible errors in installation, you should be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of materials. A comparison table will help you understand:

Plastic		Metal
pros	Minuses	Advantages	Flaws
Light weight, easy to deliver and install	It is required to securely fix it on the foundation so that the spring flood does not destroy the system	Robust construction, no need for additional fastening
	Frost can crush the container	Rigid, not afraid of exposure to cold
Fully sealed		Waterproof if walls and bottom are intact
Not afraid of corrosion and the harmful effects of chemicals contained in drains			Over time, they are destroyed by rust, the service life depends on the reliability of the treatment with an anti-corrosion compound

Products from under other liquids which are on sale wholesale and by the piece are used mainly. Used prices are low. There are few manufacturers of new barrels for the construction of a small septic tank.

It is better to buy unwashed barrels of fuel, lubricants. They form a film on the inner surface that protects against corrosion.

Manager of the company "Second-package" V.N.Martynov

Cost table for barrels per 200 liters:

The right choice of volume and location of construction

Normalized water consumption - 200 liters per day per person. The capacity of the septic tank is calculated for 72 hours. During this time, the construction of three 200-liter drums processes such a volume. With regular use of water in large quantities, this is enough for one person. In fact, consumption is less, it can be reduced by using, for example, a shower rather than a bath. Structures of this type are used mainly for cottages with temporary residence or for a bath. The volume is increased by the device of three chambers, not two.

The larger the capacity of the camera, the farther its location from home

The second requirement concerns sanitary rules. Distance from wells or wells 30-50 meters, fruit-bearing trees, berry bushes, vegetable garden - 3 m. To the road - 5 meters.

Preparation of everything necessary for construction

Acquire materials. The main ones include:

• sewer pipes 110 mm;
• fittings, turns for the highway - the number is determined by the project;
• barrels.

It is advisable to buy thick-walled containers in order to achieve a rigid connection with pipes. With thin material, the tightness may be broken due to soil pressure.

Purchase other consumables. They take care of the insulation of the chambers in advance in order to protect them from freezing - they buy thermal insulation. Seam sealer needed . It is recommended to use automotive polyurethane, silicone short-lived. The foundation for the barrel requires cement, sand, gravel. The fittings can be from any iron bars, it is not necessary to weld, just twist with wire. Sand is required without clay and organic impurities.

After choosing a place and acquiring materials, they begin construction.

Construction of a septic tank from plastic barrels

Start by preparing the containers. In one filtration cut out the bottom using a jigsaw or grinder. All chambers are connected by pipes, so holes with a diameter of 110 mm are cut out in the sidewalls. The inlet to the first container is located higher, all the rest are 10–20 cm lower than the previous one.

If the construction of a filtration field is planned, then two holes are cut out in the last barrel at an angle of 45 ° to one another. Drainage pipes are subsequently connected here.

The depth of each trench exceeds the previous one by 10 cm

Having outlined circles, the diameter of which is 25 cm larger than the size of the barrels, they begin to dig a pit. All containers are placed on the same line with a distance of 30 cm between them. First, they dig a hole for the first barrel.

The bottom of the first hermetic pits is covered with a layer of sand 10 cm thick and rammed. Next, the reinforcement is laid, slightly raised above the surface. The ends of the rods are bent and brought out above the expected thickness of the concrete. Barrels are then tied to them, or the second option is used, when hooks are poured with a solution.

Advice. An alternative option is threaded studs. Hooks are made of them, metal plates are fixed with nuts in a straight section, fixed in a cement mortar.

The last filtration chamber. It is covered with a layer of river sand of 30 cm, on top - crushed stone or pebbles, expanded clay. The total thickness is adjusted to 0.8–1 m.

Proceed to the installation of barrels:

1. Installed in the pits of the container. Fix on the foundation by one of the methods described above, insulate.
2. Cover with removable lids. They serve to pump out wastewater when needed.
3. Above the barrels, ventilation is constructed from a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. The minimum quantity is above the first, but it is better to supply everything. Then the unpleasant smell will not be heard.
4. The containers are connected by pipes, observing the slope. All joints are sealed with sealant. If it is automotive, the surface can be painted.

Hatches rise above the surface to a height of up to 20 cm

Backfill the pit with dry sand and cement. It is important to avoid mistakes. In order not to crush it, a little water is added to the barrel, the space is filled in layers with the mixture and rammed.

Features of the installation of metal barrels

It is easier to buy iron containers, especially if they have been used before, than plastic ones, and cheaper. Installation is almost no different, the procedure is the same. Larger chambers are built from metal barrels, installing one on top of the other. You will need a welding machine and the ability to own it so as not to involve third-party help. Stiffeners are installed at the joints. Their absence sometimes leads to squeezing of the container, especially with thin walls.

The volume of the septic tank is doubled by installing one barrel on top of another

Pipes can be used plastic, covering the seams with sealant. To cut holes, it is better to use a jigsaw and a metal file. It is more difficult for a grinder to achieve a round shape. Before installation in pits, the surfaces are protected on both sides with bitumen or anti-corrosion paint. It is advisable to remove the rust earlier. Anchoring containers is not necessary, but it is better to do it - it is simple and easier than with a plastic barrel.

Answers on questions

Question number 1. Is it necessary to fix the filtration chamber, because there is no foundation at the bottom?

It is better to fix in order to avoid extrusion by frost or ground water. It is done in a slightly different way. 3-4 iron rods are hammered into the bottom. A barrel is tied to them on belts.

During the construction of a summer house or a country house, the arrangement of sewage and wastewater disposal systems is of no small importance. If the estimated total amount of wastewater is small, then there is no need to connect to a centralized sewerage system, and if this is not possible, purchase expensive industrial treatment facilities. With basic skills in construction, most owners of suburban areas are quite capable of making their own septic tank from a barrel with their own hands. In the last article, we looked at how a septic tank works, therefore, later in the article, step-by-step instructions for making a treatment plant for a country house with a small amount of domestic waste will be described.

Preparatory work

Like any responsible event, the construction of a wastewater treatment plant requires competent calculation and compliance with certain rules and recommendations.

Construction materials

To equip this treatment plant, you will need the following materials:

Advice! In order to avoid freezing of water in sewer pipes in winter, as well as their deformation by the forces of frost heaving of the soil, it is recommended to lay the sewage line to a depth that is below the normative depth of soil freezing in your area. The value of this depth for your region can be found fromSNiP 2.04.02-84Water supply. External networks and structures.

Excavation

After the site for the installation of the septic tank has been selected and prepared, it is necessary to dig a pit for it, and trenches for laying sewer pipes. Using a tape measure and a hydraulic level, check the angle of the trench bottom and the elevation difference from the house to the septic tank. The dimensions of the pit along the perimeter should be 300 mm. more septic tank design in each direction. The depth should be such that the upper part of the installed septic tank is below the level of the freezing depth of the soil.

The bottom of the pit and trenches must be compacted with a manual rammer or a vibrating plate, covered with crushed stone and a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 100 mm should be made. If possible, the ideal option would be to make a concrete cushion at the bottom of the pit. When pouring it, it is necessary to provide fasteners in advance, with the help of which the barrels will be attached to the base. This is done so that during the spring floods, with an insufficient amount of water in the barrels, the entire structure would not be squeezed out to the surface under the influence of the forces of Archimedes.

Advice! To prevent the formation of blockages in the sewage system, the sewerage system from the house to the septic tank should run in a straight line. When digging trenches, try to keep them straight.

Production of water treatment elements

In order to make a septic tank from barrels in the country with your own hands, some refinement of the main constituent elements, that is, barrels, will be required. Next, all the necessary stages of the work will be described:

• In the top cover of one of the barrels, let's call it chamber No. 1, it is necessary to cut a round hole for the inlet pipe, with a diameter of 110 mm.
• On the side of chamber No. 1, at a distance of 200 mm. cut one hole with a diameter of 110 mm from the top edge. for a transition pipe made of a plastic 90° angle, with which it will be connected to chamber No. 2.
• In the top cover of the second barrel, we will call it chamber No. 2, cut a hole with a diameter of 110 mm. for the transition angle, with which it will be connected to camera No. 1.
• On the side of chamber No. 2, at a distance of 200 mm. from the upper edge, at an angle of 90 ° relative to each other, cut two more holes with a diameter of 110 mm. for outlet pipes through which water will be supplied to the filtration field.

Installation of a cleaning system

When all the elements of the system are ready for installation, you can proceed directly to the assembly of the septic tank at the place of its installation. Below is a sequential description of further actions:

• Install chambers No. 1 and 2 in the pit. If there is a concrete cushion, you need to fix the barrels, paying attention to their correct installation. The inlet pipe of barrel No. 1 should be turned towards the house.
• Connect the barrels with sewer pipes, according to the photo and description.
• Lubricate all connections with a sealing compound.
• Supply water to chamber No. 1 until the entire system is completely filled with water. A sign of filling is the overflow of water from the outlet pipes of chamber No. 2.
• Fill the pit with a dry cement-sand mixture, periodically tamping each layer of backfill.
• Above the top cover of chamber No. 1, build a manhole with a ventilation riser. It will serve to clean the system and remove solid particles of debris that have fallen into the sewer.
• Take measures to insulate the manhole. For this purpose, you can use a thick construction foam.

Advice! For sealing the elements of the treatment system, it is best to use a bitumen-based roof construction sealant, as it is more reliable and durable than silicone sealant.

Arrangement of a soil post-treatment system

After the wastewater has undergone primary treatment in a two-chamber septic tank, it must be sent for final treatment and disposal, for which the filtration field serves. They are built as follows:

• In a prepared place, it is desirable to dig a wide trench with a natural slope.
• Lay geotextile in it, so that it completely covers the bottom and sides of the trench.
• On top of it, pour a layer of crushed stone, 300 mm thick. lay two drainage pipes on top of the rubble, connected to the outlet pipes of chamber No. 2. Equip the blind end of each drainage pipe with a ventilation riser.
• Cover the drainage system with rubble and wrap with the rest of the geotextile.
• After that, you can fill the trenches with earth, and sow the territory of the filtration fields with flowers or garden grass.

Conclusion

As can be seen from the description, it is not difficult to build a septic tank from barrels for giving with your own hands. To do this, you need to have a desire, and the most minimal set of necessary materials that you can always buy at an affordable price. In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic, and if you have any questions, you can ask them at any time in the comments.

stroimsamydom.ru

The location of the septic tank is influenced by several factors:

• the relief of the site, the movement of water is carried out by gravity, so it is important to take into account the slope;
• groundwater depth;
• frost mark in winter;
• location of drinking water supply or water source;
• soil composition - sandy soil easily passes liquid, therefore it can provoke pollution of groundwater.

The installation of a septic tank requires certain conditions to be met: the distance from the house must be at least 5 meters, the distance from the drinking well - 30 meters, from green spaces - 3 meters. The place is equipped with the possibility of arrival of a sewage truck.

Works on the device of internal sewerage

Having a layout of all points of the system, and having purchased the necessary material, you can proceed with its installation. The central riser is installed first. Its diameter is chosen about 110 mm, and for the removal of gases, the upper part protrudes above the roof level or is displayed in the attic. Two types of pipes are used:

• PVC - the material is chemically resistant, not subject to corrosion and overgrowth, the smooth inner surface freely passes drains, installation is carried out by the socket method. Prices for PVC are quite affordable.
• Cast iron - reliable and durable, but have a large mass and are difficult to install. The cost of such pipes is significantly higher than plastic ones.
• Ceramic - have excellent characteristics, but are expensive.

After installing the main riser, located 4 meters from the windows, horizontal pipelines are laid. The ability to monitor the condition of the pipes and perform cleaning is provided by inspection hatches, which are located above the toilet and at the lowest point of the system. When installing pipes, avoid 90-degree turns that impede the movement of drains.

Each plumbing fixture in its device must have a siphon with a water seal that prevents the penetration of an unpleasant odor into the room. The pipe from the toilet is connected directly, with a pipe of at least 100 mm in diameter.

If a 90 degree rotation device is required, then it is implemented using two 45 degree corner elements.

To connect the sink and bathtub, pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are sufficient. Lines should be placed at an angle that ensures the movement of water. The sewerage device in the country provides for the preliminary preparation of a hole in the foundation for the withdrawal of the sewer pipe to the outside. A non-return valve must be installed at the outlet, which does not allow wastewater to flow back.

General rules for SNiP

1. During installation, pipes from the same material are used.
2. The pipeline must be sealed.
3. The connection of the line with the riser is carried out with an oblique cross or a tee.
4. The slope of a pipe Ø 110 mm is 20 mm, with a size of 50 mm - 30 mm per linear meter.
5. For country houses, free-flow sewage is used, the movement of drains occurs by gravity.
6. A hidden option for installing pipes is allowed, and the connection to the main riser must be open.

Septic tank device

If it is not possible to connect the internal sewerage of the cottage to the central one, a septic tank is installed. This device is designed to collect and purify wastewater. Septic tanks differ in design, material and method of cleaning. Before you conduct sewerage in the country, you need to decide on the choice of wastewater receiver. For the construction of septic tanks, they use: plastic or metal containers, brickwork, reinforced concrete structures. The treatment of polluted waters is carried out through soil filtration, biological treatment or wastewater is accumulated and pumped out by a sewage machine.

The easiest way is to install a sealed container in which wastewater accumulates, after filling it is pumped out with special equipment. The disadvantage of this method is the significant cost of regularly ordering the services of sewers.

A more complex device has a septic tank capable of partially treating drains. On sale will find several options for such a device, but their price is quite high. With little knowledge and a desire to save money, you can make a septic tank yourself.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient is the installation of a collector of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

1. Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country. You can dig a pit manually or with an excavator.
2. At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
3. It is necessary to install formwork from boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
4. It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe trimmings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer line and the overflow pipe between the sections.
5. The formwork is poured with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume with the help of a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at a time.
6. In the first compartment, the bottom is poured with concrete, a sealed section is formed, it will serve as a sump. Here, the wastewater will be divided into solid coarse fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that overflows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
7. The second compartment is made without a bottom; it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings with a diameter of 1–1.5 meters, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer of sedimentary rock (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) to filter wastewater.
8. An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an inclination of 30 mm per linear meter. In height, the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made to provide better cleaning.
9. The overlap of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used. Be sure to arrange a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and exhaust. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump of such a system will be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil in the area is clayey or groundwater is very close to the surface, it will not work to arrange a septic tank of this design. You can stop at a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and fixed to a concrete slab in the pit.

Another option is a biological treatment plant. Local stations are convenient and efficient, they are indispensable for suburban buildings of a large area. Specialists are engaged in the installation and launch of the device, the cost of such a station is acceptable for a narrow circle of summer residents.

External line laying

From the exit of the sewer pipe from the house to the septic tank, it is necessary to lay a pipeline. The main line should lie at a slope that ensures the flow of polluted water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes should be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the trench is shallow, provide thermal insulation for the line.

The average depth for laying sewers is 1 meter, in warm regions it is enough to go down by 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If necessary, make a turn, this place is equipped with a manhole. For the line, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, their connection must be tight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand, and then with soil.

The design, which does not require regular pumping of sewage, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. It can be two / three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in size. In two-chamber septic tanks, the sump occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber ½. Here, a preliminary treatment of wastewater takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final post-treatment of wastewater takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. Thus, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps to avoid the systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

It is worth considering that in wastewater, in addition to organic matter, there are also insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a design will also have to be periodically pumped out in order to get rid of the sediment that accumulates in the sump. This can be done with a fecal / drainage pump. The frequency of maintenance of a septic tank depends entirely on the size / volume / composition of wastewater.

For the independent construction of such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The norm of water consumption per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of households, you will get the daily rate of water consumption in the house. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.

18 m 3. In this case, you need a septic tank that has a depth and length of 3 m each, and a width of 2 m. Multiplying all sides, you get 18 m 3. The minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to the drain pipe is 0.8 m.

The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually, this sediment thickens and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be immediately cleaned. The septic tank needs to be cleaned infrequently. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge for 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewage equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological preparations with special enzymes appeared, processing sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment plant.

Bacteria need to be "fed" with oxygen for greater efficiency of their work. Tanks for a septic tank can be bought or made independently.

Before installing the finished structure of the septic tank, it is necessary to determine a suitable place for this. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house should go directly to the septic tank. Turning the pipeline is best avoided, because it is in such places that blockages form.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

If groundwater is close to the surface, then reinforce the bottom of the pit with a concrete slab / screed. The size of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.

The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to strengthen the bottom, then you should still lay a sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).

The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise, melt water in the spring will flood the equipment of the device.

After installing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done with the help of cables placed in the stiffeners of the septic tank. In this case, you can not do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to communications, after digging trenches for pipes, laying a sand cushion and installing pipes. They should be laid under a slight slope - 1-2 cm per linear meter. Pipe laying is carried out to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After that, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem, you will need a polypropylene cord and a building hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, it will be possible to insert a sewer pipe into it.

If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect the electrical cable. It is carried out from the shield to a separate machine. It must be laid in a special corrugated pipe and placed in the same trench as the sewer pipe. The septic tank has special holes with stamps. Connect a cable to them.

If the level of soil freezing in your area is large enough, then insulate the septic tank. Insulation can be any heat-insulating material that can be used for laying in the ground.

After completing the connection of electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be covered with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure in the process of backfilling the soil, water must be poured into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the backfill level of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.

If you are not satisfied with a ready-made plastic autonomous sewage treatment system, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. An excellent inexpensive material for the implementation of the plan is concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank from reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

• Affordable price.
• Unpretentiousness during operation.
• The ability to perform work without the help of specialists.

Of the shortcomings, the following deserve attention:

1. The presence of an unpleasant odor. It is impossible to make the structure absolutely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
2. The need to clean the chambers from solid waste using sewage equipment.

It is possible to reduce the frequency of the need to pump out a septic tank if bioactivators are used. They reduce the amount of solid fractions due to the fact that they accelerate the process of their decomposition.

If the installation of the rings is illiterate, then the septic tank will be leaky, which will increase the risk of untreated sewage penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be airtight, so this drawback of the system is rightfully called conditional.

The scheme for the construction of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1-2 chambers designed for settling and treating wastewater and a filtration field / filter well.

If few people live in your house and a minimum of plumbing devices are connected to the sewer, then you can easily get by with a septic tank, consisting of one sump and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have many households and many devices are connected to the sewer, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.

How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building codes, the septic tank chamber must contain a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that in order to build a septic tank for 5 people, you will need a sump of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people, you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m 3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that in order to equip a septic tank in this particular case, you will need 5 rings.

The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate the septic tank chambers and the filter well. These works, of course, can be done manually, but it is long and very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earthmoving equipment.

The bottom of the pit at the installation site of the sedimentation chambers must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of penetration of untreated effluents into the ground. Before starting concrete work, it is necessary to drain a part of the bottom of the pit for the installation of sedimentation tanks, laying a sand cushion on it, with a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a blank bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires the preparation of the base. Under it, you need to make a pillow of sand, crushed stone and gravel with a thickness of at least 50 cm.

To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. It is very difficult to perform these tasks manually. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is laborious. Yes, and the bottom will have to be filled after the installation of the last ring, which will entail a number of inconveniences. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.

Typically, the rings are fastened together with a solution, but for greater structural reliability, they can be fastened with metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not suffer due to ground movement.

Now it's time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to bring pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they must be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints, you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. From the outside, the tanks must be treated with coating or built-up waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water ingress will be minimized.

Installation of ceilings / backfill

Finished wells must be covered with special concrete slabs, in which holes are provided for mounting sewer manholes. Ideally, the backfilling of the excavation should be carried out with soil with a high percentage of sand in its composition. But if it is impossible to realize this, the pit can be covered with soil removed from it before.

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

The wastewater treatment system from barrels, as well as a similar design made of concrete goods, can be two- or three-chamber. Wastewater will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The principle of operation of this device is similar to the construction of reinforced concrete rings.

For the arrangement of an autonomous sewage system according to the principle of a treatment system, you can use any containers. These can be old metal/plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Plastic containers have several advantages over their metal counterparts:

1. A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
2. Barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of effluents. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
3. The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at the place of permanent deployment.
4. Plastic does not need to be further processed, unlike metal.
5. The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of dirty water penetrating into the ground.

Plastic barrels must be securely fixed when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts, they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are fastened with cables to a concrete base (it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab installed). In order not to crush plastic barrels, backfilling should be carried out very carefully.

For seasonal use, sewage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.

The popularity of metal containers for arranging sewerage is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. As a cover, you can use a wooden blank of the appropriate size or the one provided by the manufacturer. To install a metal septic tank, you need to dig an appropriate pit, which also needs to be concreted - walls and bottom.

Metal containers do not have a long service life even after they have been treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, their installation as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not the best solution, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. Yes, and such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

For the installation of a reliable wastewater treatment system, it is better to use factory polymer barrels.

To make a septic tank from 220 l barrels, you will need the following materials:

• geotextile - 80 m 2;
• sewerage pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
• crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m 3;
• corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º - 4 pcs.;
• plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l - 2 pcs.;
• coupling, flange - 2 pcs.;
• wooden peg - 10 pcs.;
• Y-shaped sewer tee - 4 pcs.;
• building level;
• drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m - 2 pcs.;
• epoxy two-component sealant - 1 pc.;
• glue for PVC - 1 pc.;
• water tape - 1 pc.

Of the tools you will need:

• Shovel.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Rake.

For a summer house / small country house, with economical use, standard plastic barrels are suitable. Installing such a cleaning system is easy. If you do not drain black drains into the sewer, then the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If the house has a toilet, then the sewer will have to be cleaned regularly, calling for sewage equipment.

For private houses with permanent residence, barrels will not be enough. For sewage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes / tanks / tanks. The process of their installation in the ground does not differ from the installation of barrels.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too much distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewer to the house:

• there is a need for a large deepening of the pipeline;
• on the way to the septic tank, you will need to install a revision well.

The sewerage system from metal barrels does not require large financial investments and complex installation work. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed for overflowing liquid from one barrel to another and a transition to the filtration fields / drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.

The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated with foam. After that, the pit with a septic tank is filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels are short-lived, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.

After watching the video and doing all the work correctly, all that remains is to check the system and enjoy the benefits of civilization.

• Do-it-yourself septic tank from the eurocube (scheme).
• How to defrost a sewer pipe with chemistry.

Video

This video describes the general principle of installing sewerage in the country:

A photo

kakpravilnosdelat.ru

Choosing a place for a septic tank

When choosing a place for a future septic tank, pay attention to the location of drinking water wells and residential buildings. According to the norms, the septic tank should be located no closer than 5 m from the dwelling and 15 m from the source of drinking water.

Installation of plastic barrels

So, you have chosen a place for installation and decided to build a septic tank from plastic barrels. You can start working:

1. For a small suburban area, two or three barrels with a capacity of 200-250 liters are enough. Taking a little more space than the diameter of the barrels, mark out the place for the pit. Keep in mind that the distance between the barrels should be 25 cm, and they should be in one line.
2. Get down to the hardest work with the soil. The depth of the pit is dug in steps. First, a hole is dug along the height of the first barrel. Each next barrel will be installed 15 cm deeper than the previous one.
3. The bottom of the first two pits is covered with a sand cushion 10 cm thick. After that, they are well leveled and rammed. If your finances allow, then the bottom can be concreted. Reinforcement is poured with concrete, bent in the form of a loop with a protrusion outward. Barrels will then be tied to these loops.
4. The bottom of the pit under the third barrel is covered with a layer of sand of about 50 cm. A layer of crushed stone of 30 cm is poured on top of the sand. This layer will filter the effluents that go into the ground.
5. At the bottom of the first two holes, install barrels with a bottom. They will serve as septic tanks. If the bottom is made of concrete and there are loops, then with the help of belts we fasten the barrels to the loops. This device will protect the barrels from floating in the spring.
6. Install the first barrel with a removable top cover. Through it you will clean the container from precipitation. From the top of the barrel, remove the riser from the sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm for the release of gases.
7. If the design of the septic tank provides for a filtration field, then cut holes in the second barrel located one above the other at an angle of 45 °. Pipes leading to the filtration field will be connected to these holes.
8. In the third barrel, cut the bottom with a jigsaw or grinder, and place the pit on the filter bottom.
9. The barrels will be connected to each other by overflow pipes. Therefore, in the sides of the barrels it is necessary to cut holes with a diameter of 110 mm for sewer pipes. The opening of the pipe coming out of the barrel should be 10 cm lower than the inlet.
10. Using a sewer pipe, connect the barrels together. Seal the joints with sealant.
11. After the entire installation procedure, backfill the pit. The pit is filled in layers. As the layer is added, water is poured into the barrel so that the pressure does not crush the barrel. And fill the space between the walls of the barrels with a dry mixture of sand and cement. Each layer is compacted as it falls asleep.

A photo

Filtration field

If the groundwater is deep, a filtration field can be added to the septic tank. In this case, the installation of a third filter barrel is impractical, and it is not installed. Let's take a quick look at how to make a filter field the right way:

1. A trench is dug near the installed septic tank. Its width should accommodate 2 perforated pipes, and its depth should be about 70 cm.
2. Geotextile fabric is laid in the trench.
3. A perforated pipe is laid on top of the canvas and connected to the second barrel.
4. The top of the pipe is covered with rubble, and covered with the remaining edges of the canvas. The edges of the canvas should overlap each other by 15 cm.
5. Wrapped pipes are covered with soil. If desired, the filtration field can be sown with lawn grass.

Installation of metal barrels

If you have metal 200 liter barrels lying around, you can save on buying plastic ones. The fact is that a septic tank can also be made from metal barrels. The scheme and installation procedure are the same as when installing a septic tank from plastic barrels. Only for cutting holes in the sides of metal barrels you will need an electric jigsaw with a metal file. You will also need a welding machine that can weld overflow pipes and a pipe for the exit of gases from the first barrel. To increase the capacity of the septic tank, barrels can be vertically welded to each other. Jumpers are welded at the welding points for strength. The metal tends to rust quickly, so it is advisable to treat the surface of the barrels with a protective compound before installation. It can be bitumen or any other means of similar action, sold in a hardware store.

stroysvoimirukami.ru

The principle of operation of the treatment plant

In septic tanks of this type, wastewater is cleaned mainly by mechanical methods:

• Partial clarification during the precipitation of the largest particles of impurities occurs mainly in the first of three series-connected containers.
• Smaller inclusions settle in the second tank, where water flows from the top of the first barrel.
• At the third barrel, the “native” bottom is usually removed, and when installing a septic tank in the lower part, sand, gravel or expanded clay is backfilled. This material acts as a filter.

Passing through the ground will achieve optimal results, but this method is not suitable for areas with groundwater close to the surface. To ensure sanitary safety in such cases, drainage of treated effluents through filtration fields is organized. Such structures are perforated pipes insulated with geotextile, which exit the third barrel at an angle of 45° to each other and are located in trenches parallel to the surface.

The use of septic tanks from barrels

It is advisable to build a septic tank in the country with your own hands from barrels in the following cases:

• as a temporary structure at the stage of building a house before the sewer system is organized,
• with a minimum number of drains, typical for periodic visits to a suburban area without permanent residence.

Such requirements are due to the small volume of tanks. The capacity of large barrels is usually 250 liters. therefore, the volume of the septic tank from the three tanks will be 750 liters. At the same time, according to the conditions of sanitary standards, the septic tank must contain three daily "portions".

It is advisable to build a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands also as a separate treatment plant, for example, for shower or bath.

The advantages of such structures are:

• low cost (used containers are often used),
• simplicity of device and installation,
• less excavation due to the small volume of the tanks.

On sale now there are ready-made plastic storage tanks for sewage. More on this in our separate article.

An overview of popular Grundfos sewer pump models can be found here.

Pros and cons of the materials used

Do-it-yourself sewerage in the country house from a barrel can be arranged using plastic or metal containers. Usually the most affordable option is used, however, if there is a choice, the pros and cons of each option should be taken into account before making a decision.

Advantages:

• light weight, easy to transport and install,
• ease of making holes for pipes,
• absolute water resistance, eliminating the possibility of soil contamination,
• resistance to corrosion from water or aggressive substances that may be contained in detergents.

Flaws:

• due to their small mass, plastic barrels require reliable fastening to the foundation in order to prevent them from floating up during a flood, which can lead to the destruction of the sewer system,
• due to the plasticity of the material, there is a danger of squeezing the soil reservoirs in the cold season.

iron barrels

Advantages of a septic tank from metal barrels:

• high strength,
• structural rigidity,
• water resistance provided the integrity of the walls and bottom.

Flaws:

• instability to corrosion, requiring the implementation of a waterproofing coating and periodic checks of its condition,
• a slightly more complex hole making process requiring the use of power tools.

It should be noted that more often a home-made septic tank from barrels is performed using plastic containers.

Before you make a septic tank from a barrel, in order to avoid unplanned interruptions in the process of work, it is better to prepare everything you need in advance.

Main components:

• metal or plastic barrels,
• sewer pipes (most often used with a diameter of 110 mm), the total length of which is 1-2 meters longer than the length of the main,
• tees corresponding to the pipe diameter,
• sewer covers for barrels,
• pipes for ventilation (in some cases, sewer pipes can be used),
• heads for ventilation (purchased or self-made protective canopies),
• corner fittings,
• flanges, couplings.

Mounting materials:

• glue for PVC (if plastic containers are used),
• sealant,
• cement,
• sand,
• rubble,
• fastening cables or clamps.

Tools:

• Bulgarian,
• shovel,
• electric mixer.

Installation of a septic tank

Do-it-yourself sewerage from barrels requires certain preparatory work before installation. We will consider the option of making a septic tank from three barrels, but the principle of the device remains the same for a septic tank from two tanks.

Technological holes are made in each barrel.

In each of their barrels, in addition, holes are made at the upper end (or lids, which are often supplied with tanks for ease of cleaning) for ventilation pipes.

In each tank, the inlet is located 10 cm above the outlet.

Important: When making a septic tank from iron barrels with your own hands, metal barrels for sewage are coated with an anti-corrosion compound from the inside and outside.

The pit for the septic tank breaks out of the barrels in such a way that when installed on each side of any tank there is a gap of 25 cm. The bottom of the pit is covered with rubble or a sand cushion is arranged.

• For pouring the foundation, a stepped formwork is installed. When placing barrels with a successive decrease in level (each is 10 cm below the previous one), the volume of the tanks will be fully used, which is very important with a small capacity of this type of septic tanks. If the removal of the purified liquid is provided through the bottom filter of the third barrel, the last tank is installed directly on the rubble, without a foundation.
• After pouring the foundation at the stage of solidification of the solution, rings or hooks are installed in it, to which clamps will cling to fix the containers. Just in case, it is better to “anchor” not only plastic, but also iron tanks.

If the drainage will be carried out through the filtration field, then trenches for laying corrugated pipes can be dug at this stage.

After the foundation has gained strength, you can begin to install and fasten the tanks, install pipes and seal the joints at their entrance. Experts recommend not using silicone for these purposes, preferring other types of sealants, such as epoxy.

The trenches of the filtration field are covered with geotextile, and after laying the perforated pipes, the material is wrapped with overlapping edges.

A fully assembled septic tank from barrels is covered with soil. It is better to fill plastic containers with water at this time to avoid deformation. In the process of backfilling, the soil is periodically gently tamped.

A separate article of the site presents a diagram of a septic tank made of concrete rings - it will be easier to create a treatment plant with it yourself, but you still can’t do without loading equipment.

The sewerage system for a private house is described here. Site selection, internal and external communications.

Types of plastic drainage wells are presented here. Scope of application and installation.

Nuances of construction

When mounting septic tanks from barrels in the country with your own hands, you should take into account some of the nuances and rules:

Rules for choosing the volume and installation location of septic tanks

The daily rate of water consumption is 200 liters per person, and the septic tank must contain drains. Collected within 72 hours or 3 days. Thus, subject to permanent residence, a three-chamber septic tank from 250-liter barrels is only suitable for one person. Therefore, septic tanks of this type are used only for temporary residence or wastewater treatment from one point (for example, from a bathhouse). In most cases, they try in some way to increase the possibility of septic tanks, therefore, among the treatment facilities from barrels, there are practically no two-chamber options (they have too little volume).

It is important to comply with sanitary requirements regarding the permissible distances from the septic tank to certain objects. For example, the distance from the source of drinking water should be at least 50 meters. Garden plants and fruit trees should be located at least 3 meters from the treatment plant. The distance to the road is at least 5 meters.

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Advantages of a homemade septic tank

Despite the fact that manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of treatment systems, the design and construction of home-made septic tanks (for example, from barrels) is quite relevant.

The option of a hand-held device is in demand for the following reasons:

• the ability to reduce costs to a minimum by purchasing components, as they say, out of order - where it is cheaper, secondly, using the available improvised means;
• installation of equipment can be carried out according to the so-called modular scheme, having previously calculated options for adding and complicating the system.

Let's say you equip the toilet first. In the future, connect a bathhouse, a sink in the kitchen, even a sink in the garage to the cleaning system. Of course, this will be easily feasible only if the “tie-in” points are prepared in advance - pipe outlets brought to the surface or close to it, reserved for a while.

No one better than the master who built the septic tank knows the weaknesses of the treatment system and its capabilities. Although you should not make shortcomings, but only he will take them into account during operation. It is no secret that manufacturers and sellers of any equipment, as a rule, do not inform buyers about the shortcomings, “sticking out” only the merits of the product. An independent builder will know what can let him down.

Knowing the approximate norms of water consumption by the family, taking into account the frequency of residence and the characteristics of the site around the house as a whole (type of soil and groundwater level), you can avoid both unnecessary effort and money, and “accidents” caused by poor cleaning system throughput.

Varieties of designs and schemes

A home-made septic tank constructed from barrels consists of several containers (chambers) installed in a given order. They are connected in series with each other by branch pipes so that the filling of the sections is carried out in a strictly defined order. This is achieved by installing cameras at different height levels.

The entrance and exit of pipes into the chambers is done in such a way that water begins to flow into the next tank before the water level rises to the inlet pipe. Gradually accumulating in the chamber, the water settles. The heaviest particles of pollution settle at the bottom of the tank, smaller and lighter ones continue their way through the system.

In order for the methane formed during the processing of wastewater to be freely removed from the system, it is necessary to arrange ventilation. It is installed vertically at the exit from the house or at the exit of their last section of a homemade septic tank.

In addition, on the drain of water from plumbing fixtures, sinks, toilets, showers, etc., it is necessary to provide a siphon - at least made in the form of a "knee" - so that an unpleasant smell does not poison the existence.

The principle of operation of the septic tank is based on the gradual separation of solid insoluble components and the liquid component of wastewater. The more sections the sewer passes through, the higher the final degree of cleaning.

The most common is a three-section septic tank scheme used for processing gray and brown waste streams. However, if it is necessary to purify the contaminated water coming from the bath or kitchen, the use of one or two barrel sections will be enough.

From the last barrel, they arrange an exit to the filtration field, which completes the cleaning process. This post-treatment system is an underground structure assembled from perforated pipes - drains. The drainage pipeline is laid in trenches specially selected for them, lined with geotextile, on top of which pipes are laid and sand and gravel mixture is covered.

The function of ground aftertreatment of gray drains supplied by bathhouses, washing machines, kitchen drains, etc., can be safely entrusted to an absorption well built in the last barrel of the sewer system. In this case, the bottom is cut out from the tank, and it is filled with gravel and sand so that the layer of this backfill is at least 1 meter.

As you can see, the scheme is quite simple, but its implementation in practice will require a lot of physical effort. Particularly time-consuming work is associated with the development of a pit for sections of a septic tank and trenches for a sewer pipeline.

Construction of a septic tank from plastic barrels

Home-made treatment structures can be divided into groups according to the material from which the chambers are made, these are septic tanks:

• from plastic barrels;
• from metal containers (welded cubes, cylindrical barrels);
• from concrete rings;
• from car tires.

The metal tank is more rigid. In addition, it is easier to fix it from floating up. But the main disadvantage of iron barrels is their poor ability to resist corrosion.

A septic tank made of concrete rings requires the use of special equipment in the construction of sewer wells. It is difficult to ensure the proper degree of tightness in a tire tank if there is no experience with such materials.

A homemade septic tank made of plastic barrels has more advantages:

• light weight, which facilitates transportation, installation in the pit and assembly;
• corrosion resistance. This moment is important not only in terms of reducing the hassle associated with replacing tanks, but also as an additional guarantee of cleanliness on the site;
• the optimal way of construction, because installation of the system does not require electric welding;
• tightness of tanks, due to which there is no need to carry out work on waterproofing the sewer facility;
• manufacturability of the source material. Polymer containers are much easier to process with a cutting tool.

If necessary, slight cutting flaws can be easily corrected using cold welding tools.

Basic accommodation requirements

In the event that you have to obtain permission to install a septic tank in the regulatory authorities (SES, etc.), then carefully study SNiP No. 2.04.03-85. SNiP - "Building Norms and Rules" - a document similar to the standard (GOST), and it is this one that establishes the basic rules for the construction of external sewage networks and treatment facilities.

Sanitary requirements are regulated by SanPiN - Sanitary Rules and Norms.

In any case, adhere to the following requirements for distances from the septic tank to the following objects:

• the foundation of the house is 4-5 meters;
• well, well - 30-50 m;
• lake, pond - 30 m;
• bushes, trees - 2-4 m;
• road - 5 m.

Before installing an autonomous septic tank from plastic barrels, its location must be discussed with the owners of neighboring plots. Although the standards provide for a distance from their fence to a septic tank of 2 m, the owners of a nearby estate may not be satisfied with the proximity of the sewer structure.

When deepening the bottom of the structure below 5 m, it will be necessary to obtain building permits from the local administration.

But even if permission is not required, consider the features of the site. It is pointless to arrange sewerage with systems of soil post-treatment in clay soils that do not have the necessary filtration properties.

The lack of the ability to pass water will be “telled” by the stagnation of flood waters during the melting of snow and during periods of heavy liquid precipitation. This means that clayey soils predominate in the section, which do not allow water to pass through and into itself.

On clay soils, sandy loams, clays, loams, storage tanks are installed. They only accumulate waste masses for pumping out by sewers, and do not process them. A similar decision should be made if the groundwater level is close to the surface. Soils saturated with water will also prevent the disposal of the purified and clarified liquid component of wastewater.

Instead of a storage tank, a biological treatment station can be installed. It purifies effluents by 98%, which allows them to be dumped onto the terrain.

Features and design standards

Having solid experience in the construction of such systems, all the required calculations can be made "by eye". But drawing up a detailed plan and developing a project, even in the form of a sketch, can be of great benefit.

Firstly, having determined the installation locations of the cameras and laying the highway, you will accurately calculate how much and what materials you need to purchase. If time endures, then before you start work, part of the necessary, it is quite possible, can be obtained for free.

And legally - people, as a rule, easily part with things that they consider trash. It has been proven more than once in practice that even a car can be assembled by spending money comparable to the price of, say, a new bicycle.

Secondly, the careful execution of the sketch contributes to the adoption of new decisions, as well as discipline. In addition, a well-drawn to scale drawing can reveal flaws in the original design and save you from unnecessary expense. It may well turn out that the scheme can be simplified by discarding the excess.

As you plan, keep the following in mind:

• even if you do not need official permission to install a septic tank, try not to disturb the ecology of the site;
• the sections of the septic tank should be located so that there is at least 5 m between them and the foundation - a distance that excludes soil erosion in case of emergency flooding of the septic tank and leakage;
• the route of sewer pipes must be designed so that it is, if possible, without turns that contribute to clogging of the pipeline;
• the external line of an autonomous sewer must be provided with a manhole for inspection and cleaning.
• for every 25 m of the sewer line, an additional manhole should be built.

If the site is not happy with the dimensions, and the choice of location is a decided matter, then, if necessary, strengthen the walls of the pit.

If it is planned to erect buildings in the future, the operation of which will require the use of water (a bathhouse, a sink, some kind of handicraft), provide for places for “tie-in” of water effluents from them into the treatment system. Moreover, the discharge of water from the bath can be taken immediately to the last chamber of the septic tank, since there will be no large particles of dirt in the waste water.

If you do not intend to use the services of a vacuum truck, do not make the first chamber too voluminous - so that it can be easily cleaned manually. In addition, consider either easy dismantling of the chamber or access to its contents for quick cleaning.

If, in accordance with the clay type of soil on the site, only the installation of a storage tank is possible, then carry out the design taking into account the provision of unhindered passage of sewage equipment.

Preparation of building materials for work

The main materials necessary for making a septic tank from barrels with your own hands include:

• pipes for the highway with a diameter of 110 mm;
• fittings, angles, etc., in the quantity corresponding to your project.
• the barrels themselves, designed for septic tank chambers. Select their sizes with the calculation of the approximate water consumption in the house, based on direct observations.

It is advisable to use barrels with sufficiently thick walls so that the joints of the pipes with them are as rigid as possible - otherwise the seam may lose its tightness from mechanical stress.

Work out in advance the issue related to the freezing of cameras at low temperatures. You can use the old village way - put wooden sticks in containers. At the very least, the ice that expands when it freezes will squeeze the tree, which has “taken” part of the impact. Plastic bottles filled with sand will also help.

But in any case, the thermal insulation of the barrels will not be superfluous - take care of purchasing available materials in the required quantity.

Supporting materials will also be required. You need to buy a sealant to seal the seams. For this purpose, do not use silicone, it will not last long, and it will not be possible to cover it with any protective layer - no coating will hold on silicone.

The best option would be to use a car body sealant - it has good adhesion (sticking ability), mechanical strength, and it can be coated on top with paint, mastic, etc. Polyurethane sealant has the best characteristics, but it is quite expensive;

It is necessary to purchase cement, sand, rebar - for pouring bases for barrels. Sand should not be subject to any special requirements in terms of quality. Let it be with pebbles, it's not scary, the main thing is that it does not include lumps of loam and organic pollution. As reinforcement, any steel bars are suitable. There is no need to cook a reinforcing mesh - it is enough to fasten the bars with wire.

It will require crushed stone, gravel, granulated slag or similar materials to backfill the bottom of the pit (pit) before pouring cement;

The plastic barrel is lightweight, and therefore, when the container is not filled, it can be “pushed” to the surface by groundwater. To avoid this, prepare metal hooks, threaded studs - something for which you can "anchor" the barrel.

It is appropriate to use threaded studs for sale - it is convenient to make hooks from them, on the straight ends of which you can fix iron plates with two nuts that need to be “drowned” in cement.

Construction of a pit with a concrete slab

How you decide to make the main pit - manually or with the help of an excavator - decide for yourself. Calculate its area so that after installing the barrel in place it is convenient to ram the earth, which is filled into the gap between it and the wall of the pit. It is also possible to provide for the thermal insulation of the container - with slag, with foam plastic - in general, with what will be more accessible.

Before pouring a concrete slab at the bottom of the excavation, it is necessary to check whether its depth is sufficient. To do this, you can install one of the barrels in the pit and see if there is enough depth for a concrete base. If everything is in order, you can start filling the bottom of the pit with cement. It is absolutely not necessary to make formwork at the same time, but it is advisable to fill it with sand and compact the bottom before that.

If there is any doubt about the strength of the walls of the pit, then they must be strengthened with a board before pouring. Then it is enough to fill the bottom with a thin layer of liquid cement. After it dries, you can lay the reinforcement and fill it “cleanly” - with the alignment of the horizon. Do not forget about the embedded parts for anchoring barrels!

Mix cement with sand - 3 parts of sand to 1 part of cement. It is very convenient to use an electric concrete mixer, but acquiring one just for this job (unless there are plans to build something else) does not seem appropriate. It is enough to choose a suitable trough, convenient for working with a shovel.

Mix sand with cement first without water - on the contrary, avoiding its premature ingress, and then gradually adding liquid, bring the solution to the desired consistency. To prepare small portions of cement, you can also work on a sheet of iron or plywood - if there is no trough. Before directly filling the foundation, moisten the compacting backfill with water.

To level the fill, use a tool similar to a flat mop. While pressing the sole to the surface, level the solution with light translational movements. So, by the way, you will achieve a better filling of the future site with a solution.

To prevent the grout from cracking as it dries, especially in hot weather, cover the grouted area with a thick cloth after the cement has set and pour water over it. For this purpose, a tarpaulin or similar synthetic fabric is better suited - it is important not to wet the surface of the site, but to slow down the evaporation process.

Proceed with the installation of pipes when the barrels are installed, but not completely fixed. Only when the entire structure is assembled can its elements be fixed. It is advisable to fill the barrels with water - for stability. All these points are important to take into account due to the fact that the final stage of the assembly will be the processing of the joints of pipes and barrels with sealant - while it dries, it is necessary to ensure the immobility of the structure.

Before applying the sealant, treat the places of its contact with plastic with coarse sandpaper (No. 80-100) - for better adhesion and durability of the seam. By the way, triangular scarves for rigidity can also be installed on the same sealant, 3-4 pieces per joint, between the barrel wall and the pipe. While the sealant is drying, wrap the scarves with wire, masking tape, etc. - so that they do not "slide".

After testing the system for water permeability, proceed to the final backfilling of trenches and pits. Compact the soil gradually, filling the ground in layers. You can throw stones, bricks, etc. into the gap for rigidity.

In those places where it is possible that equipment will run into the filled pipes and pits, before filling the surface layer of soil, make a protective flooring at least from boards.

Assembly and connection of the structure

So, all materials are ready. The next step is to cut holes in the barrels for pipes. There is no point in describing this procedure. The only thing that can be advised - do not immediately make holes in size - let the pipes be inserted with effort, cut off the excess if necessary.

Next, you should take care of fixing the pipes in advance, otherwise, when backfilling and tamping trenches and pits, the integrity of the seams can be violated. Pipes can be fixed using all the means at hand - wire, cutting boards, bricks, whatever.

Before digging trenches and pits, it would be useful to assemble the entire structure, without fixing the details, to place everything on the ground. Pipes can simply be placed on the ground next to the barrels. This will help to more accurately make markings on the ground. Having marked the contours of the highway and pits with stakes and twine, you can start digging.

In the first part of the installation work, the preparation of the components of the septic system and the installation of the receiving tank in the pit were carried out. Next, we carry out the device of a chamber that performs the functions of an absorbing well:

The stages of installation of the receiving and absorbing chambers have been completed. Now we are starting to build a soil treatment system, for which we have already installed a beacon in the form of the first peg and made a device that determines the slope.

Installation of a septic system with a filtration field is completed, it remains to fill the pit with soil and put the facility into operation:

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The use of plastic barrels in the manufacture of a septic tank:

The final stages of the device:

The general principle of organizing autonomous sewage:

When a homemade septic tank made of plastic barrels is ready for use, work out the rules for its use for family members. Be sure to insist that non-degradable items such as rags, cigarette butts, small items made of synthetic materials are not thrown into the sinks.

In the event that you will clean the chambers yourself, you can prepare a waste pit in advance. Practice shows that organic sludge extracted from a septic tank, mixed with earth and mowed grass, turns into ordinary fertile soil after three years.

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Since, because of this, the size of the cesspool is limited, it is permissible to use metal barrels only in suburban areas where it is not planned to live permanently, and the amount of drains will be small. A small sewer tank would be out of place in a house where several people live permanently.

The main advantage of metal containers is their high strength, due to which they can withstand severe mechanical loads.

However, they have much more disadvantages, which is why their use is limited:

Advantages of barrels made of polymer materials:

• resistance to corrosion, due to which the containers can serve 30-50 years;
• high mechanical strength, which is almost similar to metal products;
• most types of plastic are resistant to aggressive chemical compounds that are part of sewage;
• the plastic barrel for sewage is completely sealed, it does not require additional waterproofing.

However, such containers have a significant drawback - despite the large volume, their weight is negligible. For this reason, the tank can be pushed to the surface by groundwater or frost heaving. Therefore, the construction of a septic tank requires that the sewer tank be well fixed.

How to bury a tank with your own hands

Before burying a sewer tank, you need to determine its location. You also need to know in advance how to properly bury the septic tank, so that later you do not have to redo everything. There are certain sanitary standards regarding the distance to residential buildings, water sources, site boundaries. It would not be superfluous to entrust the choice of a place for installing a septic tank to a specialist who will take into account the location of buildings on the site, communications, groundwater level and other nuances.

A plastic barrel for sewerage is installed in a pre-prepared pit, its dimensions must be larger than the tank. Thanks to this, if necessary, it will be possible to insulate the structure and securely fix the barrel. The depth of the pit should be such that the inlet and the inlet sewer pipe are at the same level.

How to bury a barrel under the sewer, the procedure:

1. At the bottom of the pit, a crushed stone or sand cushion with a thickness of more than 20 centimeters is created.
2. After that, the base is concreted, while the frame is mounted with anchors or loops for further attachment of the container.
3. After 5-7 days, the concrete foundation becomes strong enough, and a barrel can be installed.
4. The container is attached to the foundation using steel strips or a cable bandage.
5. If necessary, the septic tank is insulated with polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam (read: "").
6. Before backfilling the soil, the container must be filled to a certain level. During this work, it is important to take into account the manufacturer's recommendations - depending on what polymer material the barrel is made of, the backfilling features may differ.
7. The barrel is connected to all inlet and outlet communications, the ventilation pipe, after which it is finally covered with soil.

Currently, containers made of polymeric materials are the most common - this is due to their advantages over metal products. An important role in this is played by their durability and ease of installation.

Do-it-yourself sewerage from barrels is created quite simply, which makes it possible to save on the services of specialists. In the event that the barrel was securely fixed, and all installation requirements were observed, including the manufacturer's recommendations, then the container can last several decades.

The owners of country houses do not want to give up the usual urban amenities and have to equip the sewer system on their site on their own. Often it is a simple cesspool, made from a barrel or otherwise, but if there is running water and households actively use plumbing fixtures, its capabilities will clearly not be enough.

The country sewerage scheme includes a collector receiving sewage, internal and external pipeline networks. Depending on financial capabilities, the collector is built of bricks, concrete rings, large car tires, Eurocubes or a 200-liter barrel.

Sewerage scheme with a barrel as a septic tank

Scheme and rules for organizing sewerage with a septic tank in the country

It is quite possible to equip a septic tank for giving with your own hands. Before starting work, a detailed sewerage scheme is drawn up. Drawings can be seen in the photo. On the diagram, you need to put the location of the storage tank, the internal and external wiring of the pipeline network. Building codes and regulations determine the required angle of inclination of pipes, features of the collector device and other parameters. Please note that simply draining sewage into a pit without pumping pollutes the soil and nearby aquifers.

Requirements for the placement of treatment facilities at their summer cottage

Treatment facilities in the summer cottage should be located no closer than thirty meters from water bodies, wells and artesian wells. In order to prevent the unpleasant smell from penetrating into the living quarters, the minimum distance of the septic tank from the house is five meters. This distance should not be greatly extended either, since this significantly increases the cost of laying an external sewer network.

Minimum distances from the septic tank to different objects

Care must be taken to ensure that the unpleasant smell does not disturb the neighbors, and the treatment plant should not be located too close to the boundaries of the site. Fruit trees and other green plantings with a developed root system should be at least three meters away.

Types of country sewerage

The easiest way to do it yourself for a private house and a summer house is to make an ordinary cesspool, into which a simple drain of waste will be carried out. In doing so, it will pollute the environment. To prevent unpleasant consequences, a sealed container is installed in the cesspool.

The simplest cesspool from a barrel

This is a more acceptable way of arranging a waste disposal system, but in this case, frequent "visits" of the sewer truck are necessary. A more modern type of country sewage is a septic tank, in which the liquid fraction of waste is settled and, after filtration, is removed from the collector. The use of bacteria that decompose organic matter helps to make a septic tank without pumping.

Sealed cesspool

To equip a cesspool, they dig a pit at least two meters deep. With a complex relief of the site, it is located at the lowest level.

Sealed drain pit is convenient with a small amount of waste

The walls of the tank are laid out with brickwork or ready-made concrete rings, tires from the Kirovets tractor, barrels with a volume of two hundred liters, and so on are stacked on top of each other. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the bottom of the tank, all butt joints are securely sealed to prevent leakage of wastewater.

Filter well

The filter well is equipped in the same way as a sealed cesspool, only instead of waterproofing, gravel or crushed stone with sand is made at the bottom of the mine. It forms a filter layer through which the liquid waste fractions get rid of contaminants before penetrating into the soil.

The device of the filter well from a plastic barrel

This design of the treatment plant makes it possible to pump out waste from the reservoir much less frequently, since it is filled only with their solid fragments. The quality of wastewater treatment is improved if not one, but several filter wells are installed, interconnected by overflow pipes.

Applying a filter field

The use of a filtration field helps to make a septic tank without pumping out. Its device requires a large area of ​​​​free space on the site.

Small filtration field device

The filtration field is a platform located underground, in which the sedimentation and purification of wastewater that has passed through the sewer collector takes place. From there, they are discharged through perforated pipes into the drainage system.

Gutter use

It is good if a gutter lies near the storage sewer tank. In this case, the drains that have passed through the collector can be directed directly into it. To do this, they dig a hole near the canal, filling it with crushed stone or gravel as a filter layer. Waste water is sent there, which, after passing the filter, enters the gutter.

Material options for a septic tank in the country

Depending on financial capabilities, the septic tank in the country is made from a variety of materials. With virtually no material costs, you can get decommissioned large-diameter tires at the nearest tire fitting workshop or at a car company.

An example of organizing a two-chamber septic tank from tires

Tires from the Kirovets tractor are well suited. They are stacked on top of each other in a dug pit. A septic tank made of ready-made concrete rings is equipped even faster and more reliably. The sewage receiver can be laid out with brickwork. Also used are barrels of large volume and the so-called eurocubes, which are sealed plastic containers.

When installed, they are concreted on the sides, as they are light in weight and can move when the groundwater level rises.

Installation depth of the septic tank and pipe laying

The installation depth of the septic tank and the laying of the sewer pipe directly depends on the level of soil freezing in a particular region. If sewage freezes in the sewer system, it will burst the pipes, and in the spring everything will have to start over.

A sewer pipe used only in summer can not be buried

The optimal volume of a septic tank in the country

The required volume of a septic tank in the country depends on the number of people permanently residing in it. It is believed that one person consumes up to two hundred liters of water per day. Multiplying this figure by the number of households and increasing the resulting value by approximately twenty percent, we obtain the optimal amount of storage capacity.

Of course, in the conditions of a summer residence, that is, without the use of a shower and a bath, this parameter will be much less.

Arrangement of a simple cesspool from a 200 l barrel

A cesspool from a 200 l barrel is easily made by hand. For its arrangement it is better to choose plastic containers. Compared to metal products, they have the following advantages:

• excellent resistance to aggressive chemical environments;
• longer service life;
• simplified installation due to low weight;
• no need for anti-corrosion treatment;
• high levels of tightness.

A plastic barrel as a cesspool can last a long time

When buried in the ground, plastic containers should be securely fastened with cables pulled to a concrete slab installed as the base of the structure. Otherwise, a homemade septic tank can “float” to the surface at the most inconvenient moment. The plastic barrels installed in the pit should be filled very carefully so as not to damage them.

Do-it-yourself assembly and connection of a septic tank from plastic barrels

Do-it-yourself assembly and connection of a septic tank from plastic barrels is not particularly difficult. First, a pit is dug to bury the tanks in the ground. For better wastewater treatment, two plastic containers with a volume of at least two hundred liters each should be installed. They are connected to each other with an overflow pipe.

Two-chamber septic tank with overflow from plastic barrels - a practical option

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The following video is carefully selected and will certainly help the perception of the foregoing.